WO1999007934A1

WO1999007934A1 - Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by the method

Info

Publication number: WO1999007934A1
Application number: PCT/JP1997/002741
Authority: WO
Inventors: Keiichiro Kanehisa
Original assignee: Kanehisa Inc.; Sumitomo Corporation
Priority date: 1997-08-07
Filing date: 1997-08-07
Publication date: 1999-02-18
Also published as: EP1004699A1; KR20010022623A; KR100338235B1; EP1004699A4; JP3061420B2; AU3783197A

Abstract

Reforming of woven/knitted fabrics is effected by applying a skeletal triazine cross-linking reaction by using a sericin fixation method of raw silk so as to improve shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and shape stability, and then sericin is removed by specific refining to obtain woven/knitted fabrics. A production method of woven/knitted fabrics comprises a step of processing and treating raw silk and/or cellulose fiber by using a sericin fixation method of raw silk, a step of doubling and twisting the raw silk and/or cellulose fiber so processed and treated by the sericin fixation method, a weaving and knitting step using the yarns so doubled and twisted, a swelling step of immersing the fabric into a tank to swell the woven/knitted fabric constituting a piece of cloth and a step of effecting enzymic refining for the woven/knitted fabric swelled inside the tank, and this method imparts shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and shape stability to the knitted/woven fabric.

Description

Specification

Method for producing woven or knitted fabric using sericin-fixed yarn of raw silk and woven or knitted fabric produced thereby

Background art

Fabrics using silk, which is a natural material, are traditionally inherited, and have a unique texture, beautiful light, softness, and air permeability and hygroscopic properties. The silk is composed of a pair of fiber mouths and sericin surrounding it. Silk (silk) is a protein from which sericin is removed, which is woven and knitted to produce a silk product. However, fiproin, which is a component of silk products, is presumed to have a plurality of fibrils in an ester bond, but has various problems due to weak bonding between the molecules of fipril. Silk as a natural material cannot be said to have been completely elucidated scientifically, and there are many unknown fields. The same applies to cellulosic fibers (including cellulosic fiber yarns) produced from natural materials.

The present invention relates to a process for processing and processing raw silk, cellulosic fibers and their composite twisted yarns using a raw silk sericin fixing method, and forming a skeletal triazine in them to prevent shrinkage, shrinkage and form. It has improved stability. Hereinafter, weaving and knitting using these will be demonstrated.

There are various processing and treatment methods for fixing sericin to raw silk, and many solvents have been developed. However, dimeric protein called sericin had a hard feel and was dull and shiny, and sericin was dissolved when dyed, making it difficult to use as a clothing fiber.

Therefore, it is limited to special woven fabrics called “raw silk”, such as silk organza, siphon, sifted silk, and Fuji silk. It has a different look, feel, and performance from a woven or knitted fabric.

The sericin fixation method includes 1. Aldehydes

Formalin Glutaraldehyde Dejarde Starch

Acrylaldehyde

2. Heavy metal salts

Chromium alum dichromate + reducing agent Alumina alum acrylyl aldehyde

3. Evening

4. Synthetic resin

Melamine D M E U Epoxide

5. Cyanuric chloride and dichlorotriazine type reactive dyes

Some use.

Among these sericin fixing methods, the method using formalin, glutaraldehyde, chromium salt, cyanuric chloride and dichlorotriazine type reactive dye has been proven to be the most practical.

However, formalins have a high risk to the human body and are not a preferred method due to their high risk. Furthermore, the chromium salt method is not the best method, because the processing of epoxide resin is unstable due to various conditions such as industrial disposal and there is a concern that it may affect the human body such as skin disorders. .

The present invention is characterized in that a sericin fixing method based on a cyanuric chloride-based skeletal triazine which does not have such a problem is employed.

It has been proved that sericin fixation and the protein of the fiber mouth react efficiently with the method of constructing the skeletal triazine. It is presumed that the skeletal triazine in the sericin fixing method is as follows (Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-850).

(Hereinafter the margin) XX

Dichlorotriazine-based monochlorotriazine-based reactive dyes Reactive dyes Further, the invention described in Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho. 359).

Briefly, the invention described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-850 is a method of applying sericin to raw silk to prevent sericin from dissolving in ordinary refining (hot water), soap refining, and alkaline refining. In the method of fixing and fixing, the patent invention of Japanese Patent No. 2559302 provides a method of processing five-in (silk) from which sericin has been removed.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-80050 describes a sericin fixing method using a reactive dye of cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a cyanuric acid derivative. As described above, sericin is coated on the surface of silk fabric and silk fiber. In silk fabric that has not been subjected to sericin fixing, sericin is dissolved by soap and alkali scouring. However, it is desirable to use special fabrics, o-gandhi, decorative fabrics, etc. while they are still hard. Therefore, it is necessary to fix sericin so that it is difficult to dissolve in soap and alkaline scouring. Because of the characteristics of woven fabric with sericin immobilized, the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry's Research Institute for Agricultural and Forestry Agriculture and Forestry has developed a material with a unique texture using its patented manufacturing method. He also reported the properties of the material ("The 47th Annual Report of the Japan Silkworm Kanto j, 1996, P82-83"). According to this report, the monochlorotriazine reaction Fabrics are manufactured using dyes and dichlorotriazine-based reactive dyes, and various properties are measured. The recovery rate has also been low.

In the examination process of the invention relating to the patent No. 2555903 "A composition for modifying silk products and a method for modifying the same", the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-850 is referred to. It is quoted as In the present invention, the object is specified as a post-dyed silk product. In other words, it is a silk product having only a five-mouthed mouth. The reason for avoiding the problems of the invention of Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-80050 and limiting it to post-dyed silk products is presumed to be as follows. In order to form skeletal triazine, 1% by weight of cyanuric chloride is applied to the weight of the thread, and sericin is fixed using ethylene tetrachloride as the medium.

However, water cannot be used because cyanuric chloride is insoluble in water. As the solvent and the derivative, ethylene tetrachloride, 1.1.2.2 tetrachloroethane and the like are used. However, these derivatives have a pungent form-based irritating odor and are difficult to handle. Furthermore, it has been found that sericin fixation on silk cannot be dissolved in ordinary soap and alkali scouring. Also, as described above, it has been demonstrated that if sericin is not sufficiently dissolved and remains, the resilience of the steel is low in the antimicrobial properties. Therefore, the invention according to Patent No. 2555952 dissolves sericin in ordinary soap and alkali scouring, and removes the thread that is generated during the silk production process in which only the fiber mouth is formed. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The present invention solves and improves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and uses a sericin fixing method for raw silk to perform a skeletal triazine cross-linking reaction to modify a woven or knitted fabric, thereby improving shrink resistance and shrink resistance. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric from which sericin has been removed by using special scouring after improving and improving the properties and morphological stability, and a woven or knitted fabric produced thereby. That is, it is impossible for a woven or knitted fabric modified by the sericin fixing method to dissolve 100% of sericin by ordinary scouring. Accordingly, the swelling step, which is an invention method developed by the inventor and already applied for a patent (Japanese Patent Application No. Hei 8-61825, PCT / JP96 / 011019). Use a means to dissolve sericin in a special scouring method that includes an enzymatic scouring step.

The invention according to the first aspect of the present invention comprises a step of processing and treating raw silk and / or cellulosic fiber using a sericin fixing method for raw silk; and a step of processing and processing raw silk and / or cellulose fiber by a sericin fixing method. And woven and knitted using the ply-twisted yarn; swelling and swelling the woven and knitted fabric constituting the fabric by dipping in the tank; and swelling in the tank. A process for enzymatic scouring of a woven or knitted material is provided, thereby providing a method for producing a woven or knitted material having a shrinkproof property, a shrinkproof property and a form stability of the woven or knitted material.

Before weaving and knitting, the raw silk is subjected to the sericin fixing method for the raw silk and Z or cellulosic fibers. In this way, the yarn can be strongly twisted in the plying and twisting process, and the woven or knitted fabric has excellent shrinkage resistance, shrinkage resistance, and form stability. Furthermore, by using a special scouring method including a swelling process and an enzyme scouring process developed by the inventor, sericin other than sericin in a part of the woven or knitted fabric is removed, and the fiber mouth is exposed to bring out the original characteristics of silk. Let On the other hand, some sericin of the woven or knitted fabric remains around the fiber mouth to maintain the excellent shrinkproof property, shrinkproof property and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric.

The invention according to claim 2 is characterized in that the method further comprises, before the weaving and knitting step, a step of dyeing raw silk or cellulosic fiber.

The invention according to claim 3 is characterized in that the processing step using the sericin fixing method is carried out by using a reactive dye of cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a cyanuric acid derivative.

The invention according to claim 4 further comprises, after the enzyme scouring step, a finishing scouring step of washing out the enzyme adhering to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing scouring step, the softening treatment and the water-repellent treatment are performed together. It is characterized by becoming.

The invention according to claim 5 further comprises the step of dyeing the scoured woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step. It is characterized by comprising a step of coloring.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a woven or knitted fabric manufactured by the method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of the aforementioned items.

The invention according to the third aspect of the present invention is directed to the invention according to the first aspect of the present invention, wherein the yarn is processed and treated by using the sericin fixing method before weaving and knitting. It is characterized in that it is processed and processed using a sericin fixing method after it is made into a woven fabric.

The invention according to a fourth aspect of the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the third aspect of the present invention.

The invention according to the fifth aspect of the present invention relates to a composite twisted yarn of a raw yarn and a cellulosic fiber, while the above-described invention according to the first aspect of the present invention uses a raw yarn and a cellulose fiber. It is characterized in that it is used at least for warp or weft.

The invention according to a sixth aspect of the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the fifth aspect of the present invention. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

FIG. 1 is a flowchart showing an embodiment of the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a flowchart showing one embodiment of a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to another aspect of the present invention.

Fig. 3 shows the absolute value of the rust prevention test.

Fig. 4 shows changes in the time course of the soil prevention test.

Fig. 5 shows the absolute value of the rust prevention test.

Fig. 6 shows the change over time of the soil prevention test.

Fig. 7 shows the absolute value of the rust prevention test.

Fig. 8 shows the change over time of the rust prevention test.

Fig. 9 shows the absolute value of the rust prevention test.

FIG. 10 shows the change over time of the anti-shear test. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having excellent shrinkage resistance, shrinkage resistance and form stability using a sericin-fixed yarn, a cellulosic fiber, or a composite twisted yarn thereof of raw silk according to the present invention, and a woven or knitted fabric produced thereby Will be described in detail.

As shown in FIG. 1, the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention generally includes a yarn material preparation step (step 1), a processing / processing step using a sericin fixing method (step 2). ), A plying and twisting step (step 3), a weaving and knitting step (step 4), a swelling step of the woven and knitted article (step 5), and an enzymatic scouring step of the woven and knitted article (step 6). .

Raw yarn or cellulosic fiber or their composite twisted yarn is used as the yarn material. These yarn materials are processed and processed using the sericin fixing method. The sericin fixing method is as described above. The cyanuric acid salt and its derivative used in the invention according to Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-850 and the invention according to Patent No. 2559392, or cyanuric acid The method using a reactive dye of a derivative is preferred The raw silk and the fiber or cellulosic fiber processed and treated by the sericin fixing method are plied and twisted, for example, in the case of raw silk, sericin is wrapped around the fiber mouth. It has the advantage that the yarn can be strongly twisted because these yarns are fixed.They are woven and knitted using these twisted yarns as warp and / or weft yarns and picture yarns. The knitting is therefore: The shrink resistance, has an anti-Shi Wa resistance and shape stability.

The woven or knitted fabric in this state has sericin settled on the fibroin surface and is rugged, without the luster and flexibility unique to silk. Therefore, in order to remove sericin, a special scouring method including a swelling step and an enzyme scouring step developed by the present inventor is performed to remove sericin other than sericin in a part of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby exposing the fibroid. On the other hand, some sericin of the woven or knitted fabric remains around the fiber mouth to maintain the excellent shrink-proof, shrink-proof and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric.

Before the weaving and knitting step in step 4, preferably, a dyeing step can be added simultaneously with the processing step using the sericin fixing method in step 2. Before sericin fixation, dyeing is uniformly and neatly finished. Alternatively, or after dyeing before the weaving and knitting process, and after the enzymatic scouring step of step 6, the scoured A dyeing step can be added. Sericin located on the front and back surfaces of the woven or knitted fabric is removed from around the fibroin, and thus has the advantage of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric neatly.

In addition, after the enzyme scouring step in step 6, a finishing scouring step for washing out the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric can be added. The softening treatment and the water-repellent treatment are preferably performed together in the finishing scouring step.

Next, a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric according to the third embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

The feature of the present invention is that, while the above-described invention according to the first aspect of the present invention processes and treats the yarn using the sericin fixing method before weaving and knitting, the yarn is woven and knitted into a woven or knitted fabric. The point is that it is later processed and processed using the sericin fixing method. In other words, the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to this embodiment generally includes a weaving or knitting process (step 11), a processing and treatment process using the sericin fixing method (step 12), and a swelling of the woven or knitted fabric. A step (step 13) and an enzyme scouring step of the woven or knitted fabric (step 14) are provided. Woven and knitted fabrics use raw yarns or cellulosic fibers, or their composite twisted yarns, to carry out known processes, such as soaking drying, spinning, priming, ply-twisting, and ply-twisting and setting. Weaving and knitting. The woven or knitted fabric is processed using a sericin fixing method for raw silk. Processing using the sericin fixing method. The processing step, the swelling step of the woven or knitted material, the enzyme scouring step, the dyeing step and the finishing scouring step can be the same as those in the first embodiment described above.

(Examples and Comparative Examples)

First, as in the past, a raw yarn and a composite twisted yarn of raw yarn and cellulosic fiber were prepared (step 1).

a) 31 2 raw silk threads (S 1800t / m) X 2 threads (Z 1800t / m)

b) 316 raw silk yarns (S 1800t / m) X 2 yarns (Z 1800t / m) x 3 yarns (S 600t / m) c) 216 raw silk ground SZ 21D / 3 (2800t / m ) x 2 pcs SZ (600t / m)

d) Raw silk 21D / 3X sillmax (rayon) 75D S Z 1600t / m

e) Raw silk 21D / 3X cupra (Bemberg) 80D S Z 1600t / m

Put the above yarns a to d in the fried state, cone state or cheese state. The yarn was immersed in a water bath and sericin-fixed (Step 2). On the other hand, the yarns a, d and e were warped.

As described above, high-speed weaving cannot be carried out because raw fibrils in which sericin is dissolved have weak hydrogen bonds between fibrils, and when rubbed, fibrils are easily peeled off and separated.

Therefore, in accordance with the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the yarn was twisted and twisted while protecting the fiber mouth using the sericin fixing method (Step 3), and the high-speed weaving was performed while avoiding the thread (Step 4). . However, once the sericin fixation method is performed, sericin cannot be dissolved by ordinary soap or alkaline scouring, so special techniques including a swelling process (step 5) and an enzyme scouring process (step 6) developed by the present inventor are proposed. Sericin was dissolved by a scouring method. That is, in step 5, these fabrics were immersed in alkali potassium bicarbonate (hot water in which solvents such as Rasen Power I and II were dissolved) and swelled to increase the volume of the yarn. In step 6, sericin was dissolved using an auxiliary agent capable of degrading sericin, for example, alcalase, ceria-lase, and the like, and then finishing scouring was performed.

Table 1 shows the results of the shrinkage test conducted for the following fabrics at the Kyoto Prefectural Textile Guidance Center (Tanba, Minamiyama-cho, Nakafu-gun, Kyoto Prefecture) for the following fabrics. And changes over time. Each test was performed according to the method described below.

1 Shrinkage rate is J I S L 1042 C method

2 Anti-shear test J I S L 1059 D method Sunray method

Sealing condition Temperature and humidity 24 ° C 70% Time 1 hour Load 6 kg

Recovery status after sealing 3 · 10-30-60 · 180 minutes Number of documents 6

A warp 31/2 pieces; weft 31-6 types; 21Z6 ground (uses unprocessed sericin-fixed yarn) Koma Akiko

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

B warp 31-2 pieces; weft 31 6 types; 21 6 ground (uses untreated sericin-fixed yarn Akiko Koma

(Normal soap, Al power refining)

C warp 31/2 pieces (untreated sericin-fixed yarn);

Weft 31/6 various; 21/6 ground weft (Cyanur hydrochloride, sericin fixing yarn) Akiko Koma

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

D warp 31/2 pieces; 21 6 ground (untreated sericin-fixed yarn)

31/6 (Sihanuric acid, Sericin fixing yarn)

Akiko Koma

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

Thread similar to E C (however, high pressure scouring)

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

Each of them was woven at 126 revolutions per minute on the loom (Jacquard) of Tsuda Koma Co., Ltd. using the above-mentioned yarn. The same warp was used for 31Z2 pieces (thread not treated with sericin). As a result, the woven or knitted fabric (sample C, D, E) produced by the method of the present invention has a lower shrinkage rate than a conventional post-dyed fabric (sample B) which has been subjected to ordinary soap and alkali scouring. Improved the anti-shear test. Improved. It was demonstrated that these effects were obtained only by applying the sericin fixing method to the weft yarn.

In the same manner, a warp 31Z2 piece was kneaded with sericin to produce a knitted yarn at 24%, and a similar piece Akiko was woven at 126 revolutions per minute on a loom (Jacquard) of Tsuda Koma Co., Ltd. . Table 2 shows the results of the shrinkage rate tests performed on each of the following fabrics, and FIGS. 5 and 6 show the absolute values of the anti-shear test and the changes over time. B warp 31-2 pieces (kneaded yarn)

Weft 31 6 types; 21Z6 ground weft (sericin-fixed untreated yarn)

(Normal soap, Al power refining)

A warp 31Z2 pieces (first knitting yarn); weft 31Z6 various (first knitting yarn)

21/6 Ground (Sericin fixed untreated yarn)

(Normal soap, alkaline scouring, but high pressure scouring)

C warp 31Z2 piece (kneaded yarn) Weft 31-6 various types; 21-6 ground weft (sericin fixing yarn)

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

D Warp 31/2 pieces (pre-kneaded yarn); Weft 31/6 (pre-kneaded yarn)

21/6 Ground (Sihanuric acid, Sericin fixing yarn)

(Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring)

As a result, the fabric of the conventional method (sample A) using 31/2 pieces of warp and 31 knits of weft 31-6 yarns has a smaller shrinkage rate of the warp than the fabric of the conventional method (sample B). Is effective. The sea recovery rate is significantly worse than B in Table 1.

However, when the weft is subjected to sericin fixing according to the method of the present invention, the shear recovery rate is reduced.

1

9 Significant improvement over 1% · Improved.

In the same way, silk 21Z3 X rayon (Silmax, Bright) 75 D, using a weight ratio composition of 38% rayon and 62% silk, this thread is twisted to S.Z 1600t / m. After that, sericin was fixed and processed in a cone state to produce warp yarns. A Piccan GT-S dobby loom was used to make 40 warps / inch, 3 pieces, thread width: 68 inches, total number of warp yarns: 8, A silk woven W georgette was woven at 160 revolutions and a weaving rate of 84 / inch at 340 revolutions / minute per minute (sample A).

In addition, silk 21/3 X cupra (Bemberg) 40 DX2, using a 34% silk cupra 64% yarn in a weight ratio composition, twisting this yarn to S.Z 1600t / m, In the cone state, sericin is fixed and processed to produce warp yarns. Picanole GT — S dobby loom, 40 wings / inch, 3 pieces, thread width 68 inches, total number of warps 8,160 The silk weaving W georgette was woven at 340 revolutions per minute per minute at 84 / inch (sample piece B).

These were treated by special scouring (swelling, enzyme scouring), and the tests were attempted in the same manner as in Tables 1 and 2. Table 3 shows the results of the shrinkage test performed on each of the above cloths, and FIGS. 7 and 8 show the absolute value of the anti-shear test and changes over time.

As a result, the shrinkage in the evening direction of all fabrics made of cellulosic fibers was not so large because of the use of strong twisted yarn, but showed a remarkable recovery rate in the anti-shear test. The formation of skeletal triazine is also advantageous for system fibers. Proven.

Next, plain plain crepe was woven using the following raw silk, and a sericin fixing method was tried on the woven fabric.

Warp Raw silk 27 denier 8,320 (2, 080 x 4)

Pass through width 40.5 cm

Weft

(Ground)

@ Raw silk 21 Twist 1 denier X 9 strands in the S direction to 3,000tZm. (Ii) Raw silk 21 1 denier X 3 strands are twisted in the Z direction at 2,800 t / m in the Z direction, and one raw denier 27 deniers are combined and twisted in the S direction. (②)

Combine (1) and (2) and twist in the Z direction of 400 tZm.

® Produce the same reverse twisted yarn.

(Painting)

The ground of @ ©© produced in this way is plain weave, in the order of @ ® © ®, the ground and picture are rotated at 150 rpm, and Tango crepe is made by Dobby loom of Tsuda Koma Co., Ltd. (Originally plain crepe).

A Weird plain crepe made with traditional soap, alkali scouring

B Processing and processing of sericin fixation on unusual plain crepe.

(10% weight ratio processing)

Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring

C Processing and processing of sericin fixation on plain plain crepe.

(20% weight ratio processing)

Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring

D Processing of sericin fixation on plain plain crepe.

(20% weight ratio processing)

Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring (high pressure scouring) E Unchanged plain crepe Cyanur chloride and sericin fixation processing on C yarn Warp yarn 4 yarns Alternately into 4 yarns of cyanuric chloride and sericin fixation processing

Weft

Sericin fixing process described above to the ground

Sericin fixing process to picture

Special scouring, swelling, enzyme scouring

Table 4 shows the results of the shrinkage rate test performed on each of the above-mentioned cloths. FIGS. 9 and 10 show the absolute value and the change over time of the anti-shear test. In this way, the traditional plain crepe is manufactured through various traditional and complicated processes to produce flexible kimono with grain. However, the traditional traditional textiles are soap and alkali scouring, which dissolves sericin, so the resilience and shrinkage of cedar have not been improved. However, it was demonstrated that the product of the present invention in which sericin was fixed to the fabric had improved morphological stability in terms of both skin recovery and shrinkage resistance.

Further, a fastness test of these fabrics was conducted.

A Black mourning dyed with traditional direct dye after soap and alkali scouring of conventional plain crepe.

B The warps and wefts (picture weft) were subjected to sericin fixation by the cyanuric chloride and sericin fixing method, and special scouring, swelling, and enzyme scouring were performed using the conventional ground described above. The ground was made a plain color by over dyeing with acid dye.

C The sericin fixation process is applied to both the warp and the weft by the sericin fixing method using cyanuric chloride, and then the fabric is woven using a reactive dye (Sumifi XB lock Exgran), and is subjected to special scouring, swelling, and enzyme scouring. Mourning. Tables 5 to 7 show the results of the fastness test of each of the above fabrics.

As a result, the fabric carried out by the sericin fixing method has improved the fastness several times more than the conventional fabric without deteriorating the characteristics of silk. * Improved, and the reactive dye is also applied to silk fabric. This has demonstrated further morphological stability.

Industrial applicability

According to the method of the present invention, the method for fixing sericin to raw silk comprises Improvement · I was able to prove that it was improved.

First, the theme of the development of new kimono products in response to market needs in the kimono industry is

, In the development of new trait silk. The drawbacks of traditional Japanese clothing are that traditional soaps, silk products manufactured by alkali scouring (kimono), that is, post-dyed fabrics, lack in stiffness, shrinkage resistance, form stability and rigidity. It is. Research on sericin-fixed yarn is being conducted at the Research Institute for Agricultural Technology of the Silkworm, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, but there is no problem with the elongation of the sericin-fixed yarn, but the fabric properties are greatly affected by the degree of fixation of sericin. Research has also been published that the recovery rate is slow if the residual sericin colonization rate is high.

The cross-linking reaction to the skeletal triazine in the sericin fixing method of the present invention improves the shrinkage resistance, the anti-shrinkage property and the morphological stability of the new thread in cooperation with the special scouring, swelling and enzyme scouring according to the method of the present invention It has been demonstrated that the manufacturing method can be improved. Second, we demonstrated that this sericin fixation method could be applied to cellulosic fibers as well as silk, and improved and improved the properties of each other's fibers.

Third, the processing of textiles of the new character includes epoxy resin and urethane resin processing. Furthermore, there are also memory-shaped fabrics using formalin, ammonia, and the like. However, these textile processing methods are not useful due to the effects on the human body, the global environment, and the destruction of the ozone layer. On the other hand, a skin patch test was performed on the woven fabric produced by the method of the present invention on 20 testers, and a semi-negative determination was obtained, indicating that there was no effect on the human body. Confirmed (Japan Industrial Dermatological Association: 60, Nishi-Shichijo-Naminono-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi / Kawai Industrial Dermatological Institute: 60, Nishi-Shichijo-Namino-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-No. 1 3 6 1 7— 1).

Fourth, the sericin fixing method is useful for the industrial use of the present invention. For example, the use of dichlorotriazine.monochlorotriazine reactive dyes demonstrates the improvement and improvement of discoloration and discoloration and contamination. Is extremely high. table 1

* Average of 9 measurements for AB, 6 for C, and 3 for DE Table 2

* The above results are the average of 9 measurements Table 3

* Average of 9 measurements

Table 4

* Average of 9 measurements for AD and 6 measurements for BCE Table 5

Test results Li-bon arc light test (JIS L0842) Second exposure method

Discoloration and fading Class 6 friction test (JISL 0849) Testing machine type II

(Dry) 4-5 class, (wet) 2-3 class Washing test (JISL 0844)

% ^% ^ ^^ * ^ ≠ Dry cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration 4-5 class, pollution 3 class (cotton) heat test (JIS L0845)

Water test (JISL0846)

Sweat test A method (JIS L0848)

(Acid) Discoloration 5th grade, pollution 3rd grade (silk), 3rd grade (cotton)

(Alkaline) Discoloration 4-5 class, pollution 1-2 class (silk), 1-2 class (cotton)

7 W

Table 6

Carbon light test (JIS L0842) Second exposure method

Discoloration and discoloration class 4 Friction test (JIS L0849) Testing machine type II

(Dry) 5th grade, (wet) 5th grade Washing test (JIS L0844) C-1S method

Discoloration 3rd grade, pollution 3-4th grade (silk), 5th grade (cotton) dry cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration 5th grade, contamination 3-4th grade (nylon) Hot water test (JIS L0845)

¾ ^ ^ † "^ j- * Water test (JIS L0846)

Discoloration 3-4 class, pollution 2-3 class (silk), 4th class (cotton) sweat test A method (JIS L0848)

(Acid) Discoloration 3-4 grade, pollution 3rd grade (silk), 5th grade (cotton) (alkaline) Discoloration 3-4 grade, pollution 2-3rd grade (silk), 4-5 grade (cotton) Table 7

Results Li-bon arc light test (JIS L0842) Second exposure method

¾ ：很色 5— 615 Friction test (JIS L0849) Testing machine type II

5th grade, (wet) 4-5 grade washing test (JIS L0844)

Dry cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration 4th grade, contamination 3-4th grade (nylon) Hot water test (JIS L0845)

Water test (JIS L0846)

Sweat test A method (JIS L0848)

(Acid) Discoloration 5th grade, pollution 5th grade (silk), 5th grade (cotton)

(Alkaline) Discoloration 5th grade, pollution 5th grade (silk), 5th grade (cotton)

Claims

The scope of the claims

1. Process raw silk and / or cellulosic fiber using sericin fixing method for raw silk

• the process to process,

A process of twisting the raw silk and / or cellulosic fiber processed and processed by the sericin fixing method;

A step of weaving and knitting using the twisted yarn,

A swelling process of swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth by dipping in the tank; and

A step of enzymatic scouring of the woven and knitted fabric swollen in the tank,

A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having a shrinkproof property, a shrinkproof property, and a form stability provided by the woven or knitted material.

2. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising, before the weaving or knitting step, a step of dyeing raw silk or cellulosic fibers.

3. In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a reactive dye of cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric.

4. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a finishing and scouring step of washing away the enzymes attached to the woven or knitted article, and in the finishing scouring step, a softening treatment and a water-repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein the method is performed in combination.

5. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step.

6. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step.

7. A woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. the step of weaving and knitting a woven or knitted fabric using raw silk and / or cellulosic fibers;

A swelling process for swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth in the tank,

A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having the shrinkproof property, the shrinkproof property and the form stability of the woven or knitted material.

9. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein the raw silk or the cellulosic fiber is dyed in a desired color in advance.

10. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a reactive dye of cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric.

11. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a finishing and scouring step of washing out the enzyme adhering to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing scouring step, a softening treatment and a repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein water treatment is also performed.

12. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric. .

13. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 9, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step. .

14. A woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 8 to 13.

15. Processing and processing a composite twisted yarn of raw silk and cellulosic fiber using sericin fixing method of raw silk;

ProcessingThe process of twisting the processed yarn

A step of weaving and knitting at least using the twisted yarn as a warp or a weft; and

Enzymatic scouring of the woven and knitted fabric swollen in the water bath to decompose sericin, A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having the shrinkproof property, the shrinkproof property and the form stability of the woven or knitted material.

16. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 15, further comprising a step of dyeing a yarn before the weaving or knitting step.

17. In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 15, the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed by using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, which is performed.

18. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 15, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a finishing scouring step of washing out the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric, wherein a softening treatment is performed in the finishing scouring step. A method for producing a woven fabric, characterized in that a water-repellent treatment is also performed.

19. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 15, further comprising a step of dyeing the polished woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic scouring step. Manufacturing method.

20. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 16, further comprising a step of dyeing the polished woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic scouring step. Manufacturing method.

21. A woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 15 to 20.

22. a step of weaving and knitting a woven or knitted fabric using at least a composite twisted yarn of raw yarn and cellulosic fiber as a warp or a weft;

Processing and processing the woven or knitted fabric using the sericin fixing method of raw silk;

23. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 22, wherein the composite combustible yarn is dyed in a desired color in advance.

24. In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 22, the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed by using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, which is performed.

25. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 22, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a finishing scouring step of washing out the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and a softening treatment in the finishing scouring step. A method for producing a woven fabric, characterized in that a water-repellent treatment is also performed.

26. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 22, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic scouring step. Manufacturing method.

27. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 23, further comprising a step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step. Manufacturing method.

28. A woven or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 22 to 27.