JPH0411085A - Specific surface silk fabric and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a silk fabric having different colors and different touches on the same surface in a mixed state, having excellent fashionability and durability and useful for casual wears by printing the surface of a silk fabric with an epoxy compound-containing sizing agent composition, drying the printed fabric, heating the fabric and subsequently dyeing the dried fabric with a fibrillation treatment. CONSTITUTION:At least one surface of a scoured silk fabric is printed with a sizing agent composition containing an epoxy compound (e.g. preferably a water-soluble epoxy compound such as ethylene glycol glycidyl ether) preferably in an amount of 5-30%, dried and subsequently heated preferably with superheated steam of 100-160 deg.C. The fabric is dyed with a fibrillation treatment to form silk-epoxy crosslinked portions on at least one surface of the silk fabric in a pattern state, thereby providing the objective silk fabric having different dyeing concentrations and different touches at both the silk-epoxy crosslinked portions and the silk-epoxy non-crosslinked portions.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a special surface silk fabric in which different colors and textures coexist on the same surface, and a method for producing the same.

(Prior Art) Various methods have been used to impart new textures to silk by taking advantage of its physical and chemical properties. For example, there is a method of implosion using a concentrated salt aqueous solution, a method of fibrillation by stone washing etc. to give a peach skin texture, a method of increasing the amount of resin by grafting, a method of fixing with sericin, etc.

(Problem to be Solved by the Invention) However, all of the above-mentioned methods for imparting a new texture to silk are aimed at uniformly processing the surface of silk fabric, and it is difficult to reproducibly process a surface that is not uniform. It requires very complex techniques to do well.

There is also a method of applying glue or resin processing using a printing method to create a different texture, but these have the drawbacks of a rough and hard texture and poor durability.

Furthermore, none of these conventional techniques has pursued a method in which not only different textures but also different colors are mixed on the same surface.

The present invention solves these problems, and has a durable texture without becoming rough and hard, and has a new surface sensation in which different textures and different colors are mixed on the same surface. The object of the present invention is to provide a special surface silk cloth and a method for producing the same.

(Means for Solving the Problems) In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following configuration.

That is, the first invention is characterized in that silk and epoxy crosslinked portions are formed in a pattern on at least one side of a silk cloth, and the dyeing density and texture are different between the silk and epoxy crosslinked portions and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions. The gist of the invention is a silk cloth with a special surface, and the second invention is to print a glue composition containing an epoxy compound on at least one side of a scouring silk cloth, and after drying, heat treatment is subsequently performed, followed by fibrillation treatment. The gist of the invention is a method for manufacturing a silk cloth with a special surface characterized by dyeing, and the third invention is a method of manufacturing a silk cloth with a special surface characterized by dyeing. The gist of the invention is a method for producing a special surface silk fabric characterized by post-dying and then fibrillation treatment, and a fourth invention provides a glue composition containing an epoxy compound on at least one side of the scouring dyed silk fabric. The gist of this invention is a method for producing a special surface silk fabric, which is characterized by printing, drying, subsequently heat-treating, and then fibrillating.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The silk fabric used in the present invention is a scouring silk fabric in which sericin is removed by scouring, or a scouring dyed silk fabric in which sericin is removed by scouring and then dyed.

The glue composition used in the present invention consists of an epoxy compound glue and water. Although a reaction catalyst of an epoxy compound is not particularly required, the amount of epoxy compound used can be reduced if it is added depending on the glue composition.

Preferred water-soluble epoxy compounds for use in the present invention include ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, tris(2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanate. Nurate, triftyrolpropane. Mention may be made of the mono- and polyglycidyl ethers of neopentyl glycol, phenol ethylene oxide, lauryl alcohol ethylene oxide. The amount used is 3 to 35% by weight of the glue composition.
, preferably 5 to 30% by weight.

As the catalyst, neutral salts, weakly alkaline salts, and alkaline salts can be used, but sodium citrate, pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate, sodium chloride, etc. are preferably used.

The amount used varies depending on the type, but is 0 to 15% by weight of the glue composition.
It is.

As the sizing agent, the sizing agent used for textile printing can be used, including starch, modified starch, sodium alginate, methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum, galactomannan, as well as FL mineral-based sizing agents such as diatomaceous earth and montmorillonite, and combinations thereof. are preferred, and sodium alginate, highly etherified carboxymethyl cellulose, mineral thickening agents, and blends thereof are particularly preferred because they do not react with epoxy compounds, do not abnormally change the viscosity, and can be removed by washing. The amount used varies depending on the type, but is 2 to 15% by weight of the glue composition.

The method of printing a paste composition containing such an epoxy compound on a scouring silk cloth or a scouring dyed silk cloth is not particularly limited, but usually a roller printing method, a rotary screen printing method, an autoscreen printing method, etc. are used. Although the amount of printing varies depending on the printing method and the type of glue composition fabric, it is preferable that the epoxy compound is applied in an amount of 1 to 25% by weight based on the weight of the fabric in the printing area.

The cloth with such printing is dried at 80 to 120°C and then heat treated. For the heat treatment, methods such as dry heat treatment and warm heat treatment can be used, but it is preferable to steam for 5 to 30 minutes using saturated steam at 100 to 120°C or superheated thin air at 100 to 160°C. When the silk and epoxy crosslinked parts are printed, dried, and heat treated to form a pattern, unusual colors and textures do not become apparent but remain latent. It becomes obvious through staining or fibrillation treatment.

Dyeing can be carried out using a hanger, jigger, star dyer, beam dyer, or by cold hatch or pad dry steam method to avoid rubbing the uncrosslinked parts of the string or epoxy. On the other hand, in order to promote fibrillation, there is also a method of using a jet dyeing machine, a paddle dyeing machine, or a rotary washer. In the former case, the color will be different, but the texture will not be different, so further fibrillation treatment is required. In the latter case, processed fabrics with unusual colors and textures are obtained. The silk and epoxy crosslinked parts retain the traditional texture, but the uncrosslinked silk and epoxy parts become fibrillated, and the texture can be controlled by applying a softener in advance or by adding a softener to the dye bath. When a reactive dye is used as a dye, the gold L epoxy crosslinked part becomes light colored.
The string and epoxy uncrosslinked parts become dark colored, and acid dyes,
When using gold-containing dyes, silk, epoxy crosslinked parts become dark colored, silk,
The uncrosslinked epoxy parts become lighter in color, but the difference in shading is greater with the dip dyeing method.

The above-mentioned fibrillation process is performed to fibrillate the uncrosslinked parts of the string and epoxy to change the texture of the silk and epoxy crosslinked parts.The texture can be controlled by applying a softener in advance or by adding the softener to the bath. can. Further, examples of devices for performing fibrillation treatment include a rotary washer and a jet dyeing machine. In the case of cloth dyed with acidic dyes or metal-containing dyes, the difference in density between the silk-epoxy crosslinked portion and the silk-epoxy uncrosslinked portion is further emphasized by fibrillation treatment.

The essence of the silk fabric of the present invention is that silk and epoxy crosslinked portions are formed in a pattern, and the dyeing density and texture are different between the silk and epoxy crosslinked portions and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions.

(Function) By printing, drying, and heat-treating the epoxy compound, the epoxy compound comes to react with functional groups such as phenolic hydroxyl groups and amino groups of the tuna.

A portion of the reacted material is crosslinked to form silk and epoxy crosslinked portions, which prevents fibrillation in subsequent steps and during washing of the product. In areas where fibrillation is not prevented, that is, silk and epoxy uncrosslinked areas, when fibrillation occurs, the fibrils become entangled with each other, resulting in a slightly hard texture. However, when pretreated with a softener and fibrillated in a bath containing the softener, the entanglement of the fibrils becomes weaker, some become fluffy, and the texture becomes soft. Therefore, the texture will be different from that of the epoxy compound crosslinked portion.

Since the reacted epoxy compound blocks some of the functional groups to which the reactive dye is bonded, dyeing with the reactive dye deteriorates.

Therefore, the dyeing density will be different from the area where the epoxy compound has reacted or not.

When dyeing with acidic dyes or metal-containing dyes, the areas where the epoxy compound reacts become deeply dyed, although the mechanism is not clear. In any case, the color will be different from that of the unreacted portion of the epoxy compound.

In this way, a durable silk with different textures and colors on the same surface is obtained.

(Example) Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail based on examples.

In the examples, the texture was determined by measuring the B value using the KES-FB system (manufactured by Kadochik) and was expressed as the average value of the warp and weft. Further, the dyeing density was measured by /S at a predetermined wavelength using a colorimeter Macbeth Color Eye MS2020.

Example 1 Fuji silk was woven using No. 140 double thread for the warp and No. 140 double thread for the weft, and 5 g/l of Marcel soap was added.

Scouring was carried out at 100° C. for 60 minutes in a scouring bath consisting of 5 cc/1 sodium silicate (30° Be). Next, 8% by weight of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (Denacol EX-810, manufactured by Nagase Kasei) was used as an epoxy compound, and 11J (11
A glue composition (viscosity 10000CP, pH 10.8) consisting of 60% by weight (adjusted as a liquid) and 32% by weight water (viscosity 10000CP, pH 10.8)
Printing was carried out using an auto screen printing machine equipped with a 00 mesh screen type, and after drying, it was then heated with superheated steam at 102°C for 8 minutes using an HT steamer (manufactured by Arioli), followed by washing with hot water, washing with water, and drying.

Next, the Fuji silk with silk and epoxy cross-linked parts formed in a pattern was coated with Xayanol Old Black Ding LP (
The product of Example 1 was dyed black using a reel-less jet dyeing machine Rapid UniAce (Nippon Dyeing Machinery Department) using an acidic dye consisting of 5% owr (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.). Obtained.

In the product obtained in Example 1, the silk and epoxy crosslinked parts were dyed black and the texture was the same as before, but the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked parts were dyed gray and the texture was also a little hard. still,
The difference in concentration is 21.9 for the pass and epoxy cross-linked parts when compared with /S at a wavelength of 580 nm, and 14.5 for the silk and non-cross-linked parts of epoxy.The difference in texture is compared using the B value of KES. , the silk/epoxy crosslinked portion was 0.0112, and the silk/epoxy uncrosslinked portion was 0.0343.

Example 2 21D raw silk as warp, 21D raw silk 3 as weft
A flat crepe made by twisting books and weaving using yarn is scoured in a scouring bath containing both soap and alkali, and 10% by weight of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (Bunacol 810, manufactured by Nagase Kasei) is used as an epoxy compound.Reaction of the epoxy compound 10% by weight of sodium chloride as a catalyst, and low viscosity type sodium alginate base glue (7%) as a sizing agent.
A glue composition (viscosity 8000 CP, pH 10, 3) consisting of 50 wt % liquid and 30 wt % water (viscosity 8000 CP, pH 10.3) was
Printed using a 20 meter rotary screen,
After drying, it was then steamed for 20 minutes with saturated steam at 102''C in a star steamer, washed with hot water, and dried.

Next, a flat crepe with silk and epoxy crosslinked parts formed in a pattern was made with Irgalan Yellow 2GL.
(Manufactured by Shiva Geigy) 1% o w f, Ir
gaIan GrayBL (manufactured by Shiba Geigy) 0
．． Hanging dyeing was carried out by a conventional method using a metal-containing dye consisting of 5% OWF to obtain an olive color. The silk and epoxy crosslinked areas were dyed more deeply than the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked areas.

The difference in concentration was 15.8 for the silk and epoxy crosslinked portions, and 10.6 for the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions when compared using N/S at a wavelength of 460 nm.

Next, using a banding device, a solution containing 50 g/l of a cationic softener (Vigron 29 manufactured by Ipposha Yushi Co., Ltd.) was applied to the dyed flat crepe at a pick-up rate of 70% and dried.

Next, the flat crepe to which the softener has been applied is packed in bags and fibrillated using a rotary washer in a processing bath to which a softener (Finesoft AQ-100 (manufactured by Dai-Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) Ig/j) has been added. Processing and tumble drying yielded the product of Example 2. The condition of the rotary washer is 30 revolutions per minute and a bath ratio of 1:100. temperature 6
The temperature was 30 minutes at 0°C.

The product obtained in Example 2 is silk, the epoxy crosslinked part is silk,
Compared to the non-crosslinked epoxy portion, it was dyed in one color and had a slightly harder texture. The difference in concentration is due to the wavelength of 460 nm.
When compared with S, the silk and epoxy crosslinked parts are 15.7,
Silk and epoxy uncrosslinked parts are 10.1, and when comparing the difference in texture by KHSO3 value, silk and epoxy crosslinked parts are 0.0104, navy blue and epoxy uncrosslinked parts are O, OO.
It was 808.

Furthermore, the product obtained in Example 2 was rated according to JIS L0217.
I washed it by hand according to the 106 method, but the difference in concentration was 15.9 for silk and epoxy crosslinked parts, and 10.4 for string and epoxy non-crosslinked parts when compared with /S at a wavelength of 460 nm.
And the difference in texture is compared by KHSO3 value.
The silk and epoxy crosslinked portions had a value of 0.0105, and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions had a value of 0 and OO911, and there was no significant difference in hue or texture compared to before washing.

Example 3 The same Fuji silk as in Example 1 was refined in the same manner as in Example 1, and further hang-dyed using an acid dye consisting of 3% owf of Kayanol Mill Red R3 (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) by a conventional method. and stained red.

Next, the dyed Fuji silk was nifted lengthwise, the ears were sewn together and packed in bags, fibrillated using a rotary washer in a processing bath with a softener added, and then tumble dried. The product of Example 3 was obtained. The processing conditions for the softener in the bath and the rotary washer were the same as in Example 2.

In the product obtained in Example 3, the silk and epoxy crosslinked portions were dark colored, and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions were light colored and had a peach skin-like texture.

Example 4 The same Fuji silk as in Example 1 was scoured, printed, dried, and heat treated in the same manner as in Example 1, and further treated with Lanasol Red 6G.
Jigger staining was performed using a reactive dye consisting of 3% OWF (manufactured by Shiha Geigy) and dyed red. The silk and epoxy crosslinked areas were dyed lighter than the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked areas. In addition, the difference in concentration is 12.6% for the string and epoxy crosslinked part, and 12.6% for the epoxy crosslinked part at a wavelength of 520nm.
The epoxy uncrosslinked portion was 17.7.

Next, the dyed Fuji silk is packed in bags and adjusted to pH with sodium carbonate.
The product of Example 4 was obtained by fibrillation treatment using a rotary washer in a processing bath adjusted to 10% and tumble drying. The processing conditions for the rotary washer were the same as in Example 2.

The product obtained in Example 4 is silk, and the epoxy crosslinked part is silk 1.
The texture was slightly softer than that of the non-crosslinked epoxy part. In addition, when comparing the difference in texture using the KESOB value, silk,
The epoxy crosslinked portion was 0.0108, and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portion was 0.0363.

Furthermore, the product obtained in Example 4 was rated according to JIS L0217.
Although it was washed according to method 105, there was no significant difference in hue or texture compared to before washing. In addition, the difference in density after washing is compared with /S at wavelengths of 520 nm and 520 nm, and the silk and epoxy crosslinked parts have a density of 12. O, silk epoxy uncrosslinked part is 16.4
And the difference in texture is compared by KESOB value.
The value was 0.0108 for the string and epoxy crosslinked portion, and 0.0395 for the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portion.

(Effects of the Invention) As detailed above, the special surface silk fabric according to the present invention has excellent fashionability with different colors and textures mixed on the same surface, and is not rough or hard in texture and is durable. It is extremely useful for casual use, etc., and can be applied to uses where conventional silk cloth could not be used.

Furthermore, the method of the present invention can be carried out without using special equipment, and its usefulness is obvious.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) A special surface silk fabric characterized in that silk and epoxy crosslinked portions are formed in a pattern on at least one side of the silk fabric, and the dyeing density and texture are different between the silk and epoxy crosslinked portions and the silk and epoxy uncrosslinked portions. (2) printing a glue composition containing an epoxy compound on at least one side of the scouring silk cloth, drying and subsequently heat-treating;
A method for producing a special surface silk fabric, which is characterized in that the fabric is then dyed with fibrillation treatment. (3) A method for producing a special surface silk fabric, which comprises printing a glue composition containing an epoxy compound on at least one side of a scouring silk fabric, drying it, then heat-treating it, dyeing it, and then fibrillating it. (4) A method for producing a special surface silk fabric, which comprises printing a glue composition containing an epoxy compound on at least one side of a scouring dyed silk fabric, drying it, then heat-treating it, and then fibrillating it.