JPH055286A - Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style - Google Patents

Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style

Info

Publication number
JPH055286A
JPH055286A JP3177217A JP17721791A JPH055286A JP H055286 A JPH055286 A JP H055286A JP 3177217 A JP3177217 A JP 3177217A JP 17721791 A JP17721791 A JP 17721791A JP H055286 A JPH055286 A JP H055286A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
cellulosic fiber
dyeing
fiber structure
worn
dyed
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP3177217A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Katsusuke Kawaguchi
克資 川口
Shuichi Sano
修一 佐野
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP3177217A priority Critical patent/JPH055286A/en
Publication of JPH055286A publication Critical patent/JPH055286A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To impart a cellulosic fiber structure with a natural worn-out feeling by applying a treating liquid containing a quaternary ammonium base to the cellulosic fiber structure in the presence of an alkali, squeezing the applied liquid, quickly drying the structure to effect the migration of the treating liquid and dyeing the product. CONSTITUTION:A structure of a cellulosic fiber (especially cotton fiber) is passed through a treating liquid containing a quaternary ammonium base in the presence of an alkali (preferably caustic soda), squeezed, quickly dried to effect the migration of the treating liquid and the uneven application of the compound to the structure. The product is partly cationized and dyed to effect uneven dyeing of the structure and easily obtain the objective cellulosic fiber structure having worn-out feeling in high reproducibility. A fiber structure can be dyed to any color by this process and the product is suitable for casual use.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明はセルロース系繊維構造物
に洗いざらし調染色方法に関し、更に詳細には染色前に
前処理することにより洗いざらし、あるいは着古した感
じを現出させ、かつ堅牢性にも優れるセルロース系繊維
構造物の洗いざらし調染色方法に関するものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a dyeing method for washing and dyeing a cellulosic fiber structure, and more specifically, it gives a feeling of being washed or worn by pretreatment before dyeing, and also has fastness. The present invention relates to an excellent wash-finish dyeing method for a cellulosic fiber structure.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】通常、染色物は繰り返し洗濯に対して変
褪色が少ない事、即ち洗いざらされない様に堅牢に染色
されていることが望まれている。しかしながら最近の若
者によるファッションの流行に於いては例えばブルーデ
ニムの如く、洗いざらした感じ、あるいは着古した感じ
が好まれている。特にブリーチアウトデニムなどと呼称
されているカジュアルパンツはインジゴ染料にて染色さ
れた綾織物あるいはその縫製品を漂白剤を使用し脱色さ
れたものである。さらにインジゴ染料のブルーのみでな
く種々の色相のカラーデニムに対しても洗いざらした、
即ちブリーチアウトした感じの商品が好まれる傾向が大
となってきている。
2. Description of the Related Art Generally, it is desired that a dyed product has little discoloration after repeated washing, that is, dyed firmly so as not to be washed. However, in the fashion trends of young people these days, the feeling of being washed or worn is preferred, such as blue denim. In particular, casual pants called bleach-out denim are those in which a twill fabric dyed with indigo dye or its sewn product is decolorized by using a bleaching agent. Furthermore, I washed not only the blue of the indigo dye but also the color denim of various hues.
In other words, there is a growing tendency to favor products that feel bleached out.

【0003】この様な要望に対して従来は反応性染料で
染色後、塩素晒をしたり、あるいはバット染料で染色
後、塩素晒をしたりしているが、それぞれ欠陥がある。
即ち前者は一般に反応性染料の塩素堅牢度が不良のた
め、染色布の濃度コントロールが困難であり、後者は塩
素堅牢度が良好すぎてブリーチアウトした感じが出にく
い。いずれの場合も漂白工程がウインス等のバッチ方式
であり長時間を要したり、漂白剤を使用して脱色するた
めに漂白されずに残った染料さえも漂白剤により影響を
うけ、堅牢度が低下する。又、漂白剤として次亜塩素酸
ソーダ等を使用するために臭気の問題で作業性が悪い等
の欠点がある。
In order to meet such demands, conventionally, after dyeing with a reactive dye and then exposed to chlorine, or after dyeing with a vat dye and then exposed to chlorine, there are defects.
That is, in the former case, it is generally difficult to control the density of the dyed cloth because of the poor chlorine fastness of the reactive dye, and in the latter case, the chlorine fastness is too good and the bleached-out feeling is hard to appear. In any case, the bleaching process is a batch method such as Wins and it takes a long time, and even the dye left unbleached because it is decolorized using a bleaching agent is affected by the bleaching agent, and the fastness is descend. Further, since sodium hypochlorite or the like is used as a bleaching agent, there is a drawback that the workability is poor due to the problem of odor.

【0004】またその他の方法としてブリーチアウト風
仕上には布の組織を山部分のみ、即ち表面のみをグラビ
アロール等を用いて染色する方法あるいは染料付与後水
通した行なった後に染料を固着する方法などがあるが、
再現性に問題がある。
As another method, in the bleach-out finish, a method of dyeing only the ridges of the cloth, that is, only the surface of the cloth by using a gravure roll or a method of fixing the dye after water application after dye application But there are
There is a problem with reproducibility.

【0005】これらの問題点を解決するために特開昭5
9−163491号公報にはセルロース系繊維の白布ま
たは染色布に、水不溶性でかつ還元されリューコ化合物
となって溶解し染着する染料、アルカリ剤,スルフィン
系還元剤およびアルカリ性で還元性を有する無機金属化
合物を含む染料液をパッドし、乾燥することなくスチー
ム処理することにより洗いざらし感を有する染色布を得
る方法が提案されているが、バット染料,硫化染料,硫
化バット染料等しか使用できないため色相が限定される
ことや、バット染料等が還元剤により分解されるために
徐々に染料濃度が降下し、テーリングが発生するという
問題がある。
In order to solve these problems, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No.
No. 9-163491 discloses a dye, an alkali agent, a sulfinic reducing agent, and an inorganic inorganic having a reducing property, which are water-insoluble and are dissolved into a leuco compound to be dissolved and dyed on a white cloth or dyed cloth of cellulosic fiber. A method has been proposed in which a dyeing solution containing a metal compound is padded and a steaming treatment is performed without drying to obtain a dyed fabric having a feeling of being washed, but since only vat dyes, sulfur dyes, sulfurized vat dyes, etc. can be used, hues Is limited, and the vat dye or the like is decomposed by the reducing agent, so that the dye concentration gradually decreases and tailing occurs.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、セルロース
系繊維構造物に対して自然な感じの着古した洗いざらし
た外観を付与する場合における上記のような問題を解決
することを課題とするものである。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to solve the above-mentioned problems in the case of imparting a natural worn-out and washed appearance to a cellulosic fiber structure. is there.

【0007】すなわち、本発明においては、セルロース
系繊維構造物に対して簡単かつ均一に自然な感じの着古
した洗いざらし感を付与でき、また種々の色相を可能に
する染色方法を提供するものである。
That is, the present invention provides a dyeing method capable of easily and uniformly imparting a natural and worn-out wash feeling to a cellulosic fiber structure and enabling various hues. .

【0008】[0008]

【課題を解決するための手段】上述の目的は、セルロー
ス系繊維構造物を、アルカリ共存下セルロース系繊維と
共有結合により反応しうる第4級アンモニウム塩基含有
化合物を含む処理液中を通過せしめ、搾液後、急速に乾
燥し処理液にマイグレーションを起こさせしめ、その後
に染色することを特徴とするセルロース系繊維構造物の
洗いざらし調染色方法により達成される。
[Means for Solving the Problems] The above object is to pass a cellulosic fiber structure through a treatment liquid containing a quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound capable of reacting covalently with a cellulosic fiber in the presence of an alkali. This is accomplished by a wash-wash dyeing method for cellulosic fiber structures, which comprises rapidly drying after squeezing to cause migration in the treatment liquid, and then dyeing.

【0009】以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。The present invention will be described in detail below.

【0010】本発明で用いるセルロース系繊維としては
綿,麻,レーヨン,アセテートなどがあるが、発明効
果、利用価値の点から最も好ましいのは綿である。セル
ロース系繊維は単独あるいは混紡,交編織により他の繊
維と混用して用いてもよく、混用の場合、セルロース系
繊維を50重量%以上含有するのが望ましい。繊維構造
物としては、糸,織物,編物,不織布などの形態のもの
が挙げられる。
The cellulosic fibers used in the present invention include cotton, hemp, rayon, acetate and the like. Among them, cotton is the most preferable from the viewpoint of the effect of the invention and the utility value. The cellulosic fibers may be used alone or as a mixture with other fibers by blended spinning or interwoven knitting, and in the case of being mixed, it is desirable to contain the cellulosic fibers in an amount of 50% by weight or more. Examples of the fiber structure include yarns, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and the like.

【0011】本発明で用いる第4級アンモニウム塩基含
有化合物としては下記のものが挙げられる。下記の式
で表わされるクロロヒドリン基を有するもの。(例え
ば、長瀬化学工業(株)製ワイステッテスN−60,一
方社油脂(株)製カチオレンUK)。
Examples of the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound used in the present invention include the following. Those having a chlorohydrin group represented by the following formula. (For example, WASESTESS N-60 manufactured by Nagase Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., Cathylene UK manufactured by Yushisha Co., Ltd.).

【化1】 [Chemical 1]

【化2】 下記の式で表わされるエポキシ基を有するもの。[Chemical 2] Those having an epoxy group represented by the following formula.

【化3】 下記の式で表わされるトリアジン基を有するもの。[Chemical 3] Those having a triazine group represented by the following formula.

【化4】 [Chemical 4]

【0012】この第4級アンモニウム塩基含有化合物は
有効成分として繊維構造物自体重量に対して0.4〜1
0重量%、好ましくは2〜8重量%用いる。2重量%未
満では洗いざらし感が得られず、一方8重量%以上では
風合が粗硬となる。
This quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound is used as an active ingredient in an amount of 0.4 to 1 relative to the weight of the fiber structure itself.
0% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight is used. If it is less than 2% by weight, the feeling of washing cannot be obtained, while if it is 8% by weight or more, the texture becomes coarse and hard.

【0013】そして、かかる第4級アンモニウム塩基含
有化合物の反応を有利に進めるためにはアルカリ触媒を
用いる。アルカリ触媒としては、アルカリ金属の水酸化
物,アルカリ士族の水酸化物,アルカリ金属の炭酸塩等
を用いることができるが、好ましくは苛性ソーダが用い
られる。かかるアルカリ触媒は第4級アンモニウム塩基
含有化合物に対して10〜100重量%用いる。
An alkali catalyst is used to favorably proceed the reaction of the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound. As the alkali catalyst, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates and the like can be used, but caustic soda is preferably used. The alkali catalyst is used in an amount of 10 to 100% by weight based on the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound.

【0014】次にセルロース系繊維構造物に上記第4級
アンモニウム塩基含有化合物を付与する一実施態様をの
べると、所定量の第4級アンモニウム塩基含有化合物と
アルカリ触媒に水を加えて処理液を作り、これをパディ
ング法によって繊維構造物に施与する。次に130〜1
70℃で急速に乾燥し、処理液にマイグレーションを起
こさしめ、次いで100〜150℃の乾熱又は湿熱処理
すると、第4級アンモニウム塩基含有化合物が班に付与
され、部分的にカチオン化された繊維構造物が得られ
る。
Next, an embodiment in which the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound is applied to the cellulosic fiber structure will be described. Water is added to a predetermined amount of the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound and an alkali catalyst to form a treatment liquid. It is made and applied to the fiber structure by the padding method. Next 130-1
When dried rapidly at 70 ° C to cause migration in the treatment liquid, and then subjected to dry heat or moist heat treatment at 100 to 150 ° C, the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound is imparted to the plaque and partially cationized fiber. A structure is obtained.

【0015】次に、本発明は、このようにして得られた
部分的にカチオン化したセルロース系繊維構造物を、各
種染料で染色し、カチオン化された部分とされていない
部分の染着性の差を利用して洗いざらし調となすもので
ある。染料としては反応性染料,1,2型含金染料,酸
性染料,クロム染料等が用いられ、連続法や浸漬法によ
り染色される。
Next, in the present invention, the partially cationized cellulosic fiber structure thus obtained is dyed with various dyes, and the dyeing properties of the cationized portion and the non-cationized portion are dyed. The difference is used to create a wash-out tone. Reactive dyes, 1,2-type gold-containing dyes, acid dyes, chrome dyes and the like are used as dyes, and they are dyed by a continuous method or a dipping method.

【0016】染色後は必要に応じてマスキング剤処理を
行なう。マスキング剤は特に限定されないが、アニオン
系柔軟剤や、フェノール性水酸基を有する化合物等が挙
げられるが、特にフェノール性水酸基を有するものを用
いる場合には、一般式
After dyeing, a masking agent treatment is carried out if necessary. The masking agent is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include anionic softeners, compounds having a phenolic hydroxyl group, and the like.

【化5】 (ただし、nは2〜6の整数である)で表わされる化合
物を用いるのが好ましい。かかるマスキング剤は有効成
分として繊維構造物重量に対して0.5〜5重量%用い
る。かかるマスキング剤処理をすることによりその防汚
性(洗濯時の再汚染の完全防止性)を高めることができ
る。
[Chemical 5] (However, n is an integer of 2 to 6) is preferably used. The masking agent is used as an active ingredient in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight based on the weight of the fiber structure. By carrying out such a masking agent treatment, its antifouling property (complete prevention property of recontamination during washing) can be enhanced.

【0017】[0017]

【作用】本発明は、上記の様に構成したので、第4級ア
ンモニウム塩基含有化合物がマイグレーションにより斑
に付与され、部分的にカチオン化されるようになり、こ
れを染色するとカチオン化された部分とされていない部
分の染着性の差により染料が斑に付着し、洗いざらし調
のものが得られるようになるのである。
Since the present invention is constituted as described above, the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound is imparted to the spots by migration and partially cationized, and when this is dyed, the cationized portion is obtained. The dye adheres to the spots due to the difference in the dyeing property of the part which is not marked, and a wash-washed product can be obtained.

【0018】[0018]

【実施例】以下、実施例に基づき本発明を詳細に説明す
る。
EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below based on examples.

【0019】実施例1 綿綾織物で経,緯20番手単糸,密度経108本/吋,
緯58本/吋のものを常法により毛焼,糊抜,精練,
晒,シルケットを行なった。
Example 1 A cotton twill fabric with warp 20th count single yarn, density warp 108 yarns / inch,
58 pieces of weft / inch are fried, desizing, scouring,
Bleached and mercerized.

【0020】該綾織物を、第4級アンモニウム塩基含有
化合物としてワイステックス60(商標,ナガセ化成
(株)製,有効成分60%含有)100g/l,アルカ
リ触媒として苛性ソーダ40g/lからなる処理液中を
通過せしめ、ピックアップ率60%に搾液後、140℃
で2分乾燥し、処理液にマイグレーションを起こさし
め、次いで150℃で3分間熱処理し、ソーピング,乾
燥を行なった。
A treatment liquid containing 100 g / l of Weistex 60 (trademark, manufactured by Nagase Kasei Co., Ltd., containing 60% of active ingredient) as the quaternary ammonium salt group-containing compound and 40 g / l of caustic soda as the alkali catalyst. After passing through the inside, squeezing to a pickup rate of 60%, 140 ° C
It was dried for 2 minutes in order to cause migration in the treatment liquid, and then heat treated at 150 ° C. for 3 minutes to perform soaping and drying.

【0021】次に該綾織物を、反応性染料としてCib
acron Yellow 6G(Ciba−Geig
y(株)社製)8g/l、反応性染料としてCibac
ron Blue 4GN(Ciba Geigy
(株)社製)10g/l、保湿剤として尿素50g/
l、アルカリとしてソーダ灰20g/l、還元防止剤と
してダイアテックスDY−60(ナガセ化成(株)社
製)8g/lからなる処理液中を通過せしめ、ピックア
ップ率60%に搾液後、102℃で45秒スチーム処理
を行ない、次いでソーピング,乾燥を行なった。
Next, the twill fabric is used as a reactive dye in Cib.
acron Yellow 6G (Ciba-Geig
y (manufactured by Y Corp.) 8 g / l, Cibac as a reactive dye
ron Blue 4GN (Ciba Geigy
(Manufactured by Co., Ltd.) 10 g / l, urea 50 g / as a moisturizer
1, soda ash 20 g / l as an alkali and Diatex DY-60 (manufactured by Nagase Kasei Co., Ltd.) 8 g / l as a reducing agent were passed through, and after squeezing to a pickup rate of 60%, 102 Steam treatment was performed at 45 ° C. for 45 seconds, followed by soaping and drying.

【0022】次に該綾織物を、アニオン系柔軟剤として
サンソフターFX(日華化学(株)社製)30g/lか
らなる処理液中を通過せしめ、ピックアップ率60%に
搾液後、120℃で2分乾燥し、実施例1の製品を得
た。
Next, the twill fabric was passed through a treatment liquid consisting of 30 g / l of San Softer FX (manufactured by Nika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) as an anionic softening agent, squeezed to a pickup rate of 60%, and then 120 ° C. After drying for 2 minutes, the product of Example 1 was obtained.

【0023】実施例1で得られた製品は染料が斑に付着
し、洗いざらし調のものであった。
The product obtained in Example 1 was of a wash-cleaning tone with the dye adhering to the spots.

【0024】[0024]

【発明の効果】以上の如く、本発明方法によれば、従来
のように染色濃度コントロールの難しいこともなく、ま
た工程時間を短く、臭気の問題もなく、再現性に優れた
堅牢なる洗いざらし感のある加工が連続的に達成できる
ものであり、その工業的利用価値は大である。
As described above, according to the method of the present invention, it is not difficult to control the dyeing density as in the conventional method, the process time is short, the odor is not generated, and the wash feeling is excellent and reproducible. It is possible to achieve certain processing continuously, and its industrial utility value is great.

【0025】また得られる製品はあらゆる色相が可能で
あり、今までにない洗いざらし感があり、カジュアル用
途として頗る有用である。
Further, the obtained product can have various hues, has an unprecedented washing feeling, and is extremely useful for casual use.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 【請求項1】 セルロース系繊維構造物を、アルカリ共
存下セルロース系繊維と共有結合により反応しうる第4
級アンモニウム塩基含有化合物を含む処理液中を通過せ
しめ、搾液後、急速に乾燥し処理液にマイグレーション
を起こさせしめ、その後に染色することを特徴とするセ
ルロース系繊維構造物の洗いざらし調染色方法。
Claim: What is claimed is: 1. A cellulosic fiber structure capable of reacting covalently with a cellulosic fiber in the presence of an alkali.
A washing and dyeing method for a cellulosic fiber structure, which comprises passing through a treatment liquid containing a compound containing a primary ammonium base, squeezing the liquid, rapidly drying it to cause migration in the treatment liquid, and then dyeing.
JP3177217A 1991-06-21 1991-06-21 Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style Pending JPH055286A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3177217A JPH055286A (en) 1991-06-21 1991-06-21 Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3177217A JPH055286A (en) 1991-06-21 1991-06-21 Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH055286A true JPH055286A (en) 1993-01-14

Family

ID=16027211

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP3177217A Pending JPH055286A (en) 1991-06-21 1991-06-21 Dyeing of cellulosic fiber structure to worn-out style

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH055286A (en)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH08209538A (en) * 1995-01-27 1996-08-13 Nobutaka Ono Crease-resistant finishing of cellulose fiber cloth
JP2006265783A (en) * 2005-03-24 2006-10-05 Nicca Chemical Co Ltd Method for making it possible to dye non-dyeable yarn with dye used for nylon yarn or wool
JP2013519008A (en) * 2010-02-26 2013-05-23 コリア・ユニバーシティ・リサーチ・アンド・ビジネス・ファウンデーション Agents for improving the fastness of dyes
CN104643352A (en) * 2015-02-06 2015-05-27 宁波博洋控股集团有限公司 Preparation method of vintage jeans wear

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH08209538A (en) * 1995-01-27 1996-08-13 Nobutaka Ono Crease-resistant finishing of cellulose fiber cloth
JP2006265783A (en) * 2005-03-24 2006-10-05 Nicca Chemical Co Ltd Method for making it possible to dye non-dyeable yarn with dye used for nylon yarn or wool
JP2013519008A (en) * 2010-02-26 2013-05-23 コリア・ユニバーシティ・リサーチ・アンド・ビジネス・ファウンデーション Agents for improving the fastness of dyes
US8900330B2 (en) 2010-02-26 2014-12-02 Korea University Research And Business Foundation Agents for improving dye fastness
CN104643352A (en) * 2015-02-06 2015-05-27 宁波博洋控股集团有限公司 Preparation method of vintage jeans wear

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