JP3061420B2 - Method for producing woven or knitted fabric using sericin-fixed yarn of raw silk - Google Patents

Description

Description: BACKGROUND ART Fabrics using silk, which is a natural material, are traditionally inherited,
It has a unique texture, beautiful luster and softness, as well as breathability and moisture absorption in terms of characteristics.

Silk is composed of a pair of fibroin and sericin surrounding it. Silk (silk) is obtained by removing sericin, a glue-like protein, and weaving and knitting it to complete a silk product. However, fibroin, which is a component of silk products, is presumed to be one in which a plurality of fibrils are ester-bonded, but has various problems due to weak bonding between fibril molecules. Silk as a natural material cannot be said to have been completely elucidated scientifically, and there are many unknown fields.

Further, the same applies to cellulosic fibers (including cellulosic fiber yarns) produced from natural materials.

The present invention uses raw silk sericin fixing method to process and process raw silk, cellulosic fibers and their composite intertwisted yarns to form a skeleton triazine in them, thereby achieving shrinkage resistance, wrinkle resistance and form stability. It is an improvement. Hereinafter, a woven or knitted fabric woven and knitted using these will be demonstrated.

There are various processing and treatment methods for fixing sericin to raw silk, and many solvents and the like have been developed. However, glue-like protein called sericin is rough and dull with a hard touch, and when dyed, sericin dissolves, making it difficult to use as clothing fibers.

Therefore, a special woven fabric called "raw silk"
For example, it is limited to fabrics such as silk organza, siphon, sieve silk, and Fuji silk, and has an appearance, a touch, and a performance different from that of a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting fibroin silk in which sericin is dissolved.

The sericin fixing method includes: 1. Aldehydes Formalin Glutaraldehyde Dialdehyde Starch Acrylaldehyde 2. Heavy Metal Salts Chrom Alum Bichromate + Reducing Agent Aluminum Alum Acrylaldehyde 3. Tannin 4. Synthetic Resin Melamine DMEU Epoxide 5. Cyanuric chloride and Some use dichlorotriazine-type reactive dyes.

Among these sericin fixing methods, methods using formalin, glutaraldehyde, chromium salts, cyanuric chloride and dichlorotriazine type reactive dyes have been proven to be the most practical.

However, formalins have a strong influence on the human body and have a high degree of risk. Furthermore, the chromium salt method cannot be said to be the best method, respectively, because the processing of the epoxide resin is unstable and there is a concern about the effects on the human body such as skin disorders due to various conditions such as industrial disposal.

The present invention is characterized in that a sericin fixing method based on a cyanuric chloride-based skeleton triazine structure which does not have such a problem is employed.

It has been proven that sericin fixation and fibroin protein react efficiently with the method of constructing the skeletal triazine. It is presumed that the skeleton triazine in the sericin fixing method is as follows (Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050).

Further, an improved version of the invention described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 is Japanese Patent No. 2559302 (JP-A-4-300359).

Briefly, the invention described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050,
A sericin fixing method to prevent sericin from dissolving in normal refining (hot water), soap refining, and alkaline refining by applying sericin fixing method to raw silk. The patent invention of Patent No. 2559302 is a fibroin (silk) from which sericin is removed Processing methods are provided.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 describes a sericin fixing method using a reactive dye of cyanuric acid salt and its derivative or cyanuric acid derivative. As aforementioned,
Sericin is coated on the surface of silk fabric and silk fiber.
In silk fabric not subjected to sericin fixing, sericin is dissolved by soap and alkali refining. However, it is desirable that special woven fabric, organdy, decorative woven fabric and the like be used while being hard. Therefore, it is necessary to fix sericin so that it is difficult to dissolve in soap and alkali refining. Regarding the characteristics of woven fabric with sericin immobilized, the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry's Research Institute for Insect and Agriculture and Forestry is developing a material with a unique texture based on its patented manufacturing method, and has also reported the characteristics of the material ("No. 47th Japan Silkworm Kanto '', 1996, P82
~ 83). According to this report, a fabric is manufactured using a monochlorotriazine-based reactive dye and a dichlorotriazine-based reactive dye, and various properties are measured. With respect to the wrinkle prevention rate, the result is that the sericin fixation, that is, the higher the sericin residue degree, the lower the wrinkle recovery rate.

In the examination process of the invention "composition for modifying silk products and the method for modifying the same" according to Patent No. 2559302, the aforementioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 is cited as a reference. In the present invention, the object is specified as a post-dyed silk product. That is, it is a silk product containing only fibroin. The reason for avoiding the problems of the invention of Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 and limiting it to post-dyed silk products is presumed as follows. To form the skeletal triazine, cyanuric chloride is applied at 1% by weight with respect to the weight of the yarn, and sericin fixation is carried out using ethylene tetrachloride as the medium.

However, cyanuric chloride cannot be used because it is insoluble in water. The solvent and derivative are ethylene tetrachloride, 1
• Uses 1.2.2 tetrachloroethane and the like, but these derivatives have a chloroform-based irritating odor and are difficult to handle. Further, it has been found that when sericin fixation is applied to silk, sericin cannot be dissolved in ordinary soap and alkali refining. Also, as described above, it has been demonstrated that if sericin is not sufficiently dissolved and remains, wrinkle resistance is low in wrinkle recovery. Therefore, the invention according to Japanese Patent No. 2559302 dissolves sericin in normal soap and alkali refining, and modifies the thread generated during the process of producing silk containing only fibroin by a crosslinking reaction with fibroin. It is.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves and improves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and uses a sericin fixing method for raw silk to perform a skeleton triazine cross-linking reaction to modify a woven or knitted fabric, thereby to prevent shrinkage and prevent shrinkage. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric from which sericin has been removed by using special refining after improving and improving wrinkle properties and morphological stability, and a woven or knitted fabric produced thereby.

That is, it is impossible for a woven or knitted fabric modified by the sericin fixing method to normally dissolve 100% of sericin by refining. Accordingly, the present inventor has developed and has already filed a patent application (Japanese Patent Application No. 8-61825 / corresponding international patent application PCT / JP96 / 0101).
9) In the special refining method including the swelling step and the enzymatic refining step which are the invention methods described above, means for dissolving sericin is employed.

The invention according to the first aspect of the present invention is a step of processing and processing raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers using a raw silk sericin fixing method, and processing and processing by a sericin fixing method. A step of combining and firing raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fiber, a step of weaving and knitting using a yarn twisted with combined yarn, and a swelling process of immersing in a tank to swell a woven or knitted fabric constituting a cloth. And a step of enzymatically refining the woven and knitted fabric swollen in the tank,
Accordingly, a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having a shrinkproof property, an anti-wrinkle property and a form stability is provided.

Before weaving and knitting, a sericin fixing method of raw silk is performed on raw silk alone or on a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers. Thereby, in the plying and twisting process, the yarn can be strongly twisted, and the woven and knitted fabric has excellent shrinkage resistance, wrinkle resistance, and form stability. Furthermore, by a special refining method including a swelling step and an enzyme refining step developed by the present inventors, sericin other than sericin contained in the woven or knitted fabric is removed, and fibroin is exposed to bring out the original characteristics of silk. On the other hand, some sericin of the woven or knitted fabric remains around the fibroin to maintain the excellent shrink resistance, wrinkle resistance and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric.

The invention according to claim 2 is characterized in that the method further comprises, before the weaving and knitting step, a step of dyeing raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers.

The invention according to claim 3 is characterized in that the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed with a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative.

The invention according to claim 4 further comprises, after the enzyme refining step, a finishing refining step of washing out the enzymes attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing refining step, the softening treatment and the water repellent treatment are performed together. It is characterized by becoming.

The invention according to claim 5 is characterized in that the method further comprises, after the enzymatic refining process, a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric.

The invention according to the second aspect of the present invention is characterized in that the above-described invention according to the first aspect of the present invention is processed and treated by using the sericin fixing method on the yarn before weaving and knitting. It is characterized by processing and processing using a sericin fixing method after forming into a woven or knitted fabric.

The invention according to the third aspect of the present invention relates to the above-described invention according to the first aspect of the present invention, in which the raw silk alone or the fiber comprising the raw silk and the cellulosic fiber is used. It is characterized in that the composite twisted yarn is used at least for a warp or a weft.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a flowchart showing one embodiment of a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a flowchart showing one embodiment of a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to another aspect of the present invention.

 FIG. 3 shows the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test.

FIG. 4 shows changes over time in the anti-wrinkle test.

 FIG. 5 shows the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test.

FIG. 6 shows a change over time of the wrinkle prevention test.

 FIG. 7 shows the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test.

FIG. 8 shows changes over time in the wrinkle prevention test.

 FIG. 9 shows the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test.

FIG. 10 shows the change over time of the wrinkle prevention test.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Sericin-fixed yarn of raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fiber according to the present invention, or shrinkproof, wrinkle-proof and form-stable using composite twisted yarn thereof A method for producing an excellent woven or knitted fabric will be described in detail.

As shown in FIG. 1, the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention generally includes a yarn material preparing step (step 1).
And a processing / processing step using the sericin fixing method (step 2), a ply-twisting step (step 3), a weaving / knitting step (step 4), and a swelling step of the woven / knitted material (step 5).
And an enzymatic refining process (step 6) for the woven or knitted fabric.

As the yarn material, raw yarn alone or a fiber composed of raw yarn and cellulosic fiber, or a composite twisted yarn thereof is used.

These yarn materials are processed and processed using a sericin fixing method. There are various sericin fixing methods as described above, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 and Japanese Patent No. 2559302
The method using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative, which is used in the invention according to the above item, is preferable.

Raw silk processed or treated by the sericin fixing method alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers is twisted. For example, in the case of raw silk, sericin is fixed around fibroin, so that it has an advantage that the yarn can be strongly twisted. These ply-twisted yarns are woven and knitted by using them as warps and / or wefts and picture yarns. The woven and knitted fabric thus has excellent shrinkage resistance, wrinkle resistance and form stability.

The woven or knitted fabric in this state has sericin settled on the surface of fibroin and is rugged, and has no luster or flexibility unique to silk. Therefore, in order to remove sericin, a special refining method including a swelling step and an enzyme refining step developed by the present inventors is performed to remove sericin other than sericin in a part of the woven or knitted fabric, thereby exposing fibroin. On the other hand, some sericin of the woven or knitted fabric remains around the fibroin to maintain the excellent shrink resistance, wrinkle resistance and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric.

Before the weaving and knitting process in Step 4, preferably in Step 2
A dyeing step can be added simultaneously with the processing and processing steps using the sericin fixing method. This is because, before sericin fixation, the dyeing is uniformly and neatly finished. Instead, or after the enzymatic refining step of Step 6, in addition to the dyeing before the weaving and knitting step, a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric can be added. Since sericin located on the front and back of the woven or knitted fabric is removed from around the fibroin, there is an advantage that the woven or knitted fabric is dyed cleanly.

After the enzymatic refining step of Step 6, a finishing refining step of washing out the enzymes attached to the woven or knitted fabric can be added. The softening treatment and the water-repellent treatment are preferably performed together in the finishing refining process.

Next, a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric according to the second embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

The feature of this invention is that the above-described invention according to the first aspect of the present invention uses a sericin fixing method to process the yarn before weaving and knitting.
In contrast to the treatment, the yarn is woven and knitted into a woven or knitted material, and then processed and treated using the sericin fixing method. In other words, the method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric according to this embodiment generally includes a weaving or knitting process (step 11), a processing / processing step using a sericin fixing method (step 12), and a swelling step (step 13). ) And an enzymatic refining process of the woven or knitted fabric (step 14).

Woven and knitted fabrics, using raw yarn alone or fibers composed of raw yarn and cellulosic fibers, and composite twisted yarns thereof, perform conventionally well-known predetermined steps, for example, drying by soaking, spinning, priming, plying twisting, and twisting. -It is weaved and knitted through a setting process. The woven or knitted fabric is processed and processed by using a sericin fixing method for raw silk. The processing / processing step using the sericin fixing method, the swelling step of the woven or knitted article, the enzyme refining step, the dyeing step and the finish refining step can be the same as those in the first embodiment described above.

(Examples and Comparative Examples) First, raw yarns and composite intertwisted yarns of raw yarns and cellulosic fibers were prepared as in the prior art (step 1).

a) 31/2 of raw silk Komaito (S1800t / m) x 2 (Z1800t /
m) b) 31/6 raw silk yarns (S1800t / m) x 2 (Z1800t /
m) × 3 (S 600t / m) c) 21/6 raw silk ground SZ21D / 3 (2800t / m) × 2 SZ
(600t / m) d) Raw silk 21D / 3 × Silmax (rayon) 75D SZ 16
00t / m e) Raw silk 21D / 3 x cupra (Bemberg) 80D SZ 1600
t / m The yarns a to d are put into a skeined state, a cone state, or a cheese state.

The yarn was immersed in a water bath to perform sericin fixing (step 2).

 On the other hand, the yarns a, d and e were warped.

As mentioned above, raw silk that has dissolved sericin has a weak hydrogen bond between fibrils, so if it is rubbed,
High-speed weaving cannot be performed because the fibrils are easily peeled and separated.

Therefore, in accordance with the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, after ply-twisting the yarn while protecting the fibroin using the sericin fixing method (Step 3), high-speed weaving was performed while avoiding the cause of thread (Step 4). However, once the sericin fixing method is carried out, sericin cannot be dissolved by ordinary soap and alkali refining, so that the special refining including the swelling step (step 5) and the enzyme refining step (step 6) developed by the present inventors. Sericin was dissolved by the method. That is,
In step 5, these fabrics were immersed in alkaline sodium bicarbonate (hot water in which a solvent such as Rasen Power I or II was dissolved) to swell, thereby increasing the volume of the yarn. In Step 6, sericin was dissolved using an auxiliary agent capable of decomposing sericin, for example, alcalase, celidase, or the like, and then finishing refining was performed.

Table 1 shows the results of the shrinkage tests conducted for the following fabrics at the Kyoto Prefectural Textile Guidance Center (Tanba, Mineyama-cho, Nakafu-gun, Kyoto Prefecture, Shimizu), and FIGS. 3 and 4 show the results of the wrinkle prevention test. It shows changes in the absolute value and the passage of time. In addition, each test was based on the following method.

1 Shrinkage rate is JIS L1042C method Wrinkle prevention test JIS L1059D method Sunray method Wrinkling condition Temperature / humidity 24 ℃ 70% Time 1 hour Load 6kg Recovery state after wrinkling 3.10 ・ 30 ・ 60 ・ 180
Min. Number of Materials 4 points B Warp 31/2 pieces; Weft 31/6 types; 21/6 Ground (use unprocessed thread fixed with sericin) Akiko Koma (Normal soap, alkali refining) C 31/2 pieces of warp (fixed sericin) Unprocessed yarn); Weft 31/6 various; 21/6 ground (cyanuric hydrochloride, sericin fixed yarn) Akiko Koma (special refining, swelling, enzyme refining) D Warp 31/2 pieces; 21/6 ground (sericin fixed) Unprocessed yarn) 31/6 (Cyanuric acid, sericin-fixed yarn) Akiko Koma (special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining) EC Same yarn as that of C (however, high-pressure refining) (special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining) Using the yarn described above, weaving was performed at 126 revolutions per minute on a loom (Jacquard) of Tsuda Koma Co., Ltd. The warp was common to 31/2 pieces (untreated sericin-fixed yarn). As a result, the woven or knitted fabric (sample C, D, E) produced by the method of the present invention has a shrinkage ratio,
Both anti-wrinkle tests were improved and improved. It was demonstrated that these effects were obtained only by performing the sericin fixing method on the weft yarn.

Similarly, 31/2 pieces of warp are kneaded with sericin and reduced by 24%.
The same kumiko was woven at 126 revolutions per minute on a loom (Jacquard) of Tsuda Koma Co., Ltd. Table 2
Fig. 5 shows the results of a shrinkage rate test performed on each of the following cloths, and Figs. 5 and 6 show the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test and the change over time.

G 31/2 pieces of warp (first knitting yarn) 31/6 wefts; 21/6 ground (unprocessed sericin-fixed yarn) (normal soap, alkali refining) F 31/2 pieces of warp (first knitting yarn); weft 31/6 types (first knitting yarn) 21/6 ground weft (unprocessed sericin-fixed yarn) (normal soap, alkali refining, but high-pressure refining) H Warp 31/2 pieces (first knitting yarn) Weft 31/6 types ; 21/6 ground (sericin-fixed yarn) (special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining) I Warp 31/2 pieces (first knitting yarn); 31/6 wefts (first knitting yarn) 21/6 ground (cyanuric acid) Salt, sericin-fixed yarn) (Special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining) As a result, the conventional fabric (sample F) using 31/2 pieces of warp and 31/6 weft yarns is the same as the conventional method. Is more effective in the warp shrinkage than the cloth (sample G). The wrinkle recovery rate is significantly inferior to B in Table 1.

However, when the weft is subjected to sericin fixing according to the method of the present invention, the wrinkle recovery rate is over 91%, and is significantly improved.

Similarly, silk 21/3 x rayon (Silmax,
Bright) 75D, weight ratio composition 38% silk, 62% rayon 62% yarn, twisting this yarn to S.Z1600t / m, then sericin fixing in cone state to produce warp yarn, Picanol GT-S dobby loom, 40 wings / inch, 3 pcs, Osa thread width 68 inches, total warp 8,160
Book, silk weave W georgette at 340 / inch, 340 / min
Weaving at revolutions per minute (sample J).

In addition, silk 21/3 × cupra (Bemberg) 40D ×
2. Using a yarn of 34% silk and 64% cupra in a weight ratio composition, twist this yarn to S.Z1600t / m, and then
Warp yarn is manufactured by fixing sericin in a cone state, and it is packed with 40 pcs / inch 3 pieces on a Piccan GT-S dobby loom.
A silk woven W georgette was woven at 340 revolutions / minute per minute at a thread width of 68 inches, a total number of warp yarns of 8,160, and weaving 84 / inch (sample K).

These are processed by special refining (swelling, enzyme refining)
Trials were attempted in the same manner as in Tables 1 and 2. Table 3 shows the results of the shrinkage rate test performed on each of the above cloths, and FIGS. 7 and 8 show the absolute value of the wrinkle prevention test and the change in the time course.

As a result, any cloth made of cellulosic fibers,
The shrinkage in the vertical direction is not so large because of the use of strong twisted yarn, but it shows a surprising recovery rate in the wrinkle prevention test, demonstrating that the formation of skeletal triazine is advantageous not only for silk but also for cellulosic fibers. .

Next, plain plain crepe was woven using the following raw silk, and a sericin fixing method was tried on the woven fabric.

Warp 27 denier raw silk 8,320 (2,080 x 4) Osa thread width 40.5cm Weft (ground weft) a Twist 21 denier x 9 raw yarns in the S direction at 3,000 t / m. (3) Twist raw yarn 21 denier × 3 yarns at 2,800 t / m, twist in the Z direction, combine one raw 27 denier yarn, and twist in the S direction. () And twisted in the Z direction of 400 t / m.

b. Produce the same reverse twisted yarn.

(Drawing) c Twist 21 denier × 6 raw yarns in the S direction at 500 t / m. (9) Twist the raw silk 21 denier × 9 in the S direction at 500 t / m. () And twisted in the Z direction of 400 t / m.

The ground of ABC manufactured in this way is plain weave, in the order of abcb, ground and picture are rotated at 150 rotations per minute, at TODAKOMA's dobby loom, Tango Chirimen Was manufactured.

L Traditional plain crepe with traditional soap, alkali refining M Sericin fixation on plain plain crepe.

 (10% weight ratio processing) Special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining N Processing and processing of sericin fixation on unmodified plain crepe.

 (20% weight ratio processing) Special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining O Processing and processing of sericin fixation on unmodified plain crepe.

(20% weight ratio processing) Special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining (high pressure refining) P Cyanuric chloride and sericin fixing processing on unmodified plain crepe C yarn Warp 4 yarns Alternately into 4 yarns Cyanuric chloride, sericin fixing processing Weft To weft The above-mentioned sericin fixing process The above-mentioned sericin fixing process to the picture special refining, swelling, enzymatic refining Table 4 shows the results of the shrinkage rate test performed on each of the above cloths, and FIGS. 9 and 10 show wrinkle prevention tests And changes over time.

In this way, the traditional plain plain crepe is manufactured through various traditional and complicated processes to produce a rugged, flexible kimono. However, conventional traditional woven fabrics are soap and alkali refining and have dissolved sericin, and thus have not improved wrinkle resilience and shrink resistance. However,
It was demonstrated that the product of the present invention in which sericin was fixed on the fabric had improved morphological stability in terms of both wrinkle recovery and shrink resistance.

 In addition, fastness tests of these fabrics were carried out.

Q A black mourning dressed with conventional direct dyes after soap and alkali refining of conventional plain crepe.

R Sericin fixing treatment was applied to warp and weft (picture weft) by cyanuric chloride and sericin fixing method, and special refining, swelling, and enzyme refining were carried out using the above-mentioned conventional ground. The background was made a colorless fabric over-dyed with an acid dye.

S Cyanuric chloride, sericin fixation is applied to both warp and weft by the sericin fixing method, and then the reactive dye (Sumifi
Black mourning woven using x Block Ex gran) and subjected to special refining, swelling and enzyme refining.

Tables 5 to 7 show the results of the fastness test of each of the above cloths.

As a result, the woven fabric carried out by the sericin fixing method has improved and improved the fastness several times more than the conventional woven fabric without deteriorating the properties of silk, and furthermore, the reactive dye is applied to the silk woven fabric. This has demonstrated further morphological stability.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the method of the present invention, it was demonstrated that the sericin fixing method of raw silk improves and improves shrinkage resistance, wrinkle resistance and morphology.

First, the theme of the development of new kimono products in response to market needs in the kimono industry is the development of new trait silk. The drawback of traditional Japanese clothing is that traditional soap, silk products (kimono) manufactured by alkali refining, ie, post-dyed fabrics, lack wrinkle resistance, shrink resistance, form stability and fastness. is there. Research on sericin-fixed yarn has been conducted at the Research Institute for Silk Insect Agriculture of the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, but there is no problem with the strength and elongation of sericin-fixed yarn, but the fabric properties are greatly affected by the degree of fixation of sericin. Regarding the wrinkle recovery rate, studies have shown that wrinkle recovery is slow when residual sericin is fixed.

The cross-linking reaction to the skeletal triazine in the sericin fixing method of the present invention improves the shrinkage resistance, wrinkle resistance and form stability of the new yarn in cooperation with the special refining, swelling and enzyme refining according to the method of the present invention. It has been demonstrated that the manufacturing method can be improved.

Second, the method was demonstrated to be applicable to not only silk but also cellulosic fibers, and the properties of the fibers were improved.

Third, the processing of woven fabrics of the new character includes epoxy resin and urethane resin processing. Furthermore, there is a memory-shaped woven fabric using formalin, ammonia, or the like. However, these fabric processing methods are not useful due to the effects on the human body, the global environment, destruction of the ozone layer, and the like. On the other hand, a skin patch test was performed on 20 testers for the woven fabric produced by the method of the present invention, and a semi-negative determination was obtained, confirming that there was no effect on the human body. (Japan Industrial Dermatological Association: 60 Nishi-Shichijo Minaminomachi, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto / Kawai Institute of Industrial Dermatology: Skin Patch Test Judgment Table / Registration No. 13617-1 prepared by 60 Nishi-Shichijo Minaminomachi, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi) ).

Fourthly, the sericin fixing method has a very high industrial utility value, as the use of dichlorotriazine / monochlorotriazine-based reactive dyes has demonstrated the improvement and improvement of discoloration and discoloration and contamination. Things.

Claims (24)

(57) [Claims] A process for processing and treating raw silk alone or a fiber comprising raw silk and cellulosic fibers by using the sericin fixing method for raw silk; and a process for processing raw silk alone or raw silk and cellulose based fibers processed and treated by the sericin fixing method. A step of ply-twisting the fiber composed of the fibers, a step of weaving and knitting using the ply-twisted yarn, a swelling step of swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth by dipping in the tank, and A step of enzymatic scouring of the woven or knitted fabric swollen in step 1, thereby producing a woven or knitted fabric having shrinkproofness, anti-wrinkle properties and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric. 2. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising, before the weaving and knitting step, a step of dyeing raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric. 3. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof, or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric. 4. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising, after the enzymatic scouring step, a finishing refining step of washing out the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing refining step, a softening treatment and a repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein water treatment is also performed. 5. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining process. Method. 6. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining process. Method. 7. A step of weaving and knitting a woven or knitted fabric using raw silk alone or a fiber composed of raw silk and cellulosic fibers; a step of processing and treating the woven or knitted fabric using a sericin fixing method for raw silk; A swelling step of swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth, and a step of performing enzyme refining on the woven or knitted fabric swelled in the tank, thereby having a shrinkproof property, an anti-wrinkle property and a form stability of the woven or knitted material. A method of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric. 8. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 7, wherein the raw silk alone or the fiber composed of the raw silk and the cellulosic fiber is dyed in a desired color in advance. . 9. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 7, wherein the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof, or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric. 10. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 7, further comprising, after the enzymatic refining step, a finishing refining step of washing out the enzymes attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing refining step, a softening treatment and a repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein water treatment is also performed. 11. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 7, further comprising a step of dyeing the polished woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining process. Method. 12. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining process. Method. 13. A process for processing and processing a composite intertwisted yarn of raw yarn and cellulosic fiber using a sericin fixing method of raw yarn, a process of plying and twisting the processed and processed yarn. Weaving and knitting using at least warp or weft yarns, a swelling process of swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth by dipping in a tank, and performing enzyme refining on the woven or knitted material swollen in the water bath to decompose sericin And a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having shrinkproofness, anti-wrinkle properties and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric. 14. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, further comprising a step of dyeing a yarn before the weaving or knitting step. 15. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, wherein the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof, or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric. 16. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, further comprising, after the enzymatic refining step, a finishing refining step of washing away the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing refining step, a softening treatment and a repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein water treatment is also performed. 17. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining step. Method. 18. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 14, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining process. Method. 19. A step of weaving and knitting a woven or knitted fabric using at least a warp or weft using a composite twisted yarn of a raw yarn and a cellulosic fiber; and a step of processing and treating the woven or knitted material using a sericin fixing method of the raw yarn. A swelling step of swelling the woven or knitted fabric constituting the cloth in the tank; and a step of performing enzyme refining on the woven or knitted cloth swelled in the tank, whereby the shrink-proof, wrinkle-proof and form stability of the woven or knitted fabric are provided. A method for producing woven and knitted fabrics. 20. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 19, wherein the composite twisted yarn is dyed in a desired color in advance. 21. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 19, wherein the processing step using the sericin fixing method is performed using a cyanuric acid salt and a derivative thereof, or a reactive dye of a cyanuric acid derivative. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric. 22. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 19, further comprising, after the enzymatic refining step, a finishing refining step of washing away the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric, and in this finishing refining step, a softening treatment and a repellent treatment are performed. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein water treatment is also performed. 23. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 19, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining process. Method. 24. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 20, further comprising a step of dyeing the refined woven or knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining process. Method.