KR100338235B1 - Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by the method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention improves shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and morphological stability by performing crosslinking reaction to form triaxin skeleton by using sericin fixation method of raw silk, and then modifying the woven fabric or knitted fabric by removing sericin by special refining. It provides a method of manufacturing a woven fabric or knitted fabric comprising the step of.

The method for producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention comprises the steps of processing and processing the raw sand and / or cellulose fibers by the sericin fixing method of the raw silk; Combining the processed and treated raw yarns and / or cellulose fibers to produce a conjugated yarn; Weaving or knitting the twisted yarn; Dipping and swelling the woven or knitted fabric forming the fabric in a bath; And enzymatically refining the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath, wherein the woven fabric or knitted fabric produced according to this method has shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and shape stability.

Description

METHODS OF PRODUCTION OF WOVEN / KNITTED FABRICS USING SERICIN FIXATION YARN AND WOVEN / KNITTED FABRIC PRODUCED BY THE METHOD}

Techniques for making fabrics using silk, a natural material, have traditionally been inherited. The fabric has a special texture, beautiful color and softness, in particular breathable and hygroscopic.

The silk contains a pair of fibroins, which are covered by sericin in the outer layer. So-called silk products are made by removing silky protein sericin from silk and weaving or knitting silk yarn from which sericin has been removed. Fibroin, a component of silk products, has been considered to be composed of a number of fibril molecules that are ester-bonded with each other, which has several problems because of the weak binding between fibril molecules. As a natural substance, silk fiber has many unknown properties because it has not been scientifically studied.

This problem also applies to cellulose fibers (including cellulose fiber yarns) made from natural materials.

The present invention is to improve the shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and morphological stability of silk yarn, cellulose fibers and their composite yarns, which process and process the fibers by the method of fixing sericin to the triazine or triazine bond to the fibers. It can be achieved by forming a backbone. The properties of the woven or knitted fabrics made from the yarns and fibers of the present invention are described below.

Various processing and processing processes have been proposed for carrying out the method of fixing sericin of raw silk, and a number of solvents have been developed for this process. However, sericin, a glucosine protein, has a problem of hard texture and low gloss. If yarns are dyed, sericin will dissolve, resulting in the inability to use raw silk as a cloth for cloth.

Thus, raw silk in the form of sericin is used only as a special fabric called kiginu (unrefined yarn), which is a fabric such as organsee, chiffon, silk, Fuji, etc. This is limited. They have a different appearance, feel and physical properties than woven or knitted fabrics made from the fibroin yarn from which sericin is dissolved and removed.

Some methods of fixing sericin use the following materials:

1. Aldehydes

Formalin, glutaraldehyde, dialdehyde starch, acrylic aldehyde

2. Heavy metal salts

Chromium alum, dichromate + reducing agent, aluminium alum, acrylaldehyde

3. Tannin

4. synthetic resin

Melamine, DMEU, Epoxide

5. Cyanuric chloride and dichlorotriazine type reactive dyes

Conventionally, methods for fixing sericin using formalin, glutaraldehyde, chromium salts, cyanuric chloride and dichlorotriazine type reactive dyes described above have been found to be the most practical.

However, the method of using the formalin is not preferable because formalin has a harmful effect on the human body, and the method of using the chromium salt has a problem of causing environmental pollution due to industrial waste, and using the epoxide resin These methods are not the best method because the method is unstable in workability and has a detrimental effect on the human body such as skin disease.

The present invention adopts a sericin fixation method for forming a triazine skeleton of cyanuric chloride which does not have the above-mentioned problems.

Sericin has been known to react with fibroin proteins in an effective way in forming triazine backbones. In the method of fixing sericin, the triazine skeleton can be represented by the following chemical formula (see Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 40-8050).

Dichlorotriazine type reactive dye monochlorotriazine type reactive dye

The technique disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2,559,302 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Hei 4-300,359) is an improvement on the technique disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 40-8050.

In other words, the technique disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 40-8050 proposes a method for fixing sericin so that sericin is fixed in raw sand so that sericin is not dissolved in conventional refining (using hot water), soap refining and alkali refining. The technique disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 2,559,302 proposes a method of processing fibroin (silk) from which sericin has been removed.

A method of fixing sericin using a reactive dye of cyanurate (cyanurate) or a derivative thereof or cyanuric acid derivative is disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050. As described above, the silk fabrics and silk fibers are covered with sericin on their surface. Sericin fixation In the case of raw silk fabrics, sericin must be dissolved in a soap or alkali refining process. However, it is preferable to use a special fabric, an organ cloth or a decorative fabric with a hard fabric. Therefore, it is necessary to fix sericin so that sericin does not dissolve in soap and alkali refining. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Forestry Research Institute developed a report on the properties of these materials with special textures derived from the characteristics of sericin-fixed fabrics (see 47th Nissan Canto, 1996, pp. 82-83). ).

According to this report, fabrics were prepared using mono- and dichlorotriazine type reactive dyes and their various properties were measured. In the case of Chrysler resistance, the higher the residual amount of sericin, the lower the recovery rate of Chris.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 described above was used as a citation verification in the process of examining Japanese Patent Publication No. 2,559,302, which is an invention relating to a silk product or a composition for modifying and processing a silk product. The subject to be modified in this invention is a silk product which is dyed after removal of sericin, which means a silk product which is only made of skinloin. The reason for limiting the method of the present invention to post-dyed silk products in order to avoid the inherent problems presented in the invention disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40-8050 is as follows; This is because sericin is fixed by applying 1% by weight of cyanuric chloride to green sand to form a triazine skeleton and using ethylene tetrachloride as a solvent.

In this case, however, cold water cannot be used because cyanuric chloride is not dissolved in cold water, and ethylene tetrachloride, 1,1,2,2 tetrachloro-ethane and the like can be used as the solvent. These derivatives are difficult to use because they have a disgusting odor such as chloroform. Sericin settled in green sand is known to be insoluble in ordinary soap and alkali refining. As described above, it has been demonstrated that when sericin is not sufficiently dissolved and remains, Chris's resilience is lowered. Accordingly, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2,559,302 relates to modifying rubbing that occurs during the process of crosslinking fibroin to produce a silk fabric made only of fibroin, in which sericin is dissolved in conventional soap and alkali refining. Comes out.

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a woven fabric or knitted fabric using sericin-fixed raw yarns, and more particularly, to raw silk, cellulose fibers, and composite yarns thereof. The present invention relates to a process for producing woven or knitted fabrics having shrinkage resistance, crease resistance and form stability using twisted yarns) and woven or knitted fabrics produced by the method.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The flowchart which shows one Embodiment of the manufacturing method of the woven fabric or knitted fabric of this invention.

2 is a flowchart showing another embodiment of the method for producing the woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention.

3 is a graph showing the absolute value of Chris recoverability in a Chris resistance test.

4 is a graph showing a change value of Chris recoverability over time.

5 is a graph showing the absolute value of Chris recoverability in a creep resistance test.

6 is a graph showing the change in Chris recoverability over time.

7 is a graph showing the absolute value of Chris recoverability in a creep resistance test.

8 is a graph showing the change in Chris recoverability over time.

9 is a graph showing the absolute value of Chris recoverability in a creep resistance test.

10 is a graph showing the change in Chris recoverability over time.

[Examples and Comparative Examples]

Green sand and a composite twisted yarn of green sand and cellulose fibers were prepared (step 1).

a) 31D / 2 live sand;

Speaker (S 1800 t / m) x 2 (Z 1800 t / m)

b) 31D / 6 live sand;

Folded yarn (S 1800 t / m) x 2 (Z 1800 t / m) x 3 (S 600 t / m)

c) 21D / 6 live sand;

3 ground yarn SZ 21D (2800 t / m) x 2 SZ (600 t / m)

d) 21D / 3 raw silk x SILMAX (rayon) 75D SZ 1600 t / m

e) 21D / 3 raw silk x Cupula (Benberg) 80D SZ 1600 t / m

The yarns a) to d) are wound in the form of skeins, cones or cheeses.

Combustible and skeined yarns were immersed in a bath to allow sericin to settle (step 2).

On the other hand, the yarns a), d) and e) were woven into warp yarns.

Since the sericin-dissolved fibroin silk yarn has a weak hydrogen bond between the fibrils, the high speed weaving process could not be performed because the fibrils could separate when the fibroin silk yarn was rubbed, causing fibril separation.

Therefore, according to the production of the woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention, after weaving and twisting the yarn while protecting fibroin using the sericin fixing method (step 3), high speed weaving was performed while preventing the cause of friction (step 4). Once the sericin fixation process is carried out, sericin cannot be dissolved by conventional soap or alkaline refining. Thus, it is dissolved by a special refining method comprising a swelling step (step 5) and an enzyme refining step (step 6), which method was devised by the inventors. In step 5, the fabric was immersed in alkali sodium bicarbonate (hot water in which solvent such as RASEN POWER I, II, etc. dissolved) to swell to increase the volume of the yarn. In step 6, the sericin was removed by treatment with a sericin degrading enzyme such as transitional alkalase (ALCALAZE), seariase, and the like, followed by processing refining.

For each fabric, Kyoto-Textile Information Center (Aza Tanba, Mineyamamachi, Naka-gun, Kyoto-fu) / Tetsu Kobayashi organizes the test. The results of the shrinkage test carried out in Table 1 are shown in Table 1 as follows: The absolute value and change over time for Kris recoverability in the creep resistance test are shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, respectively. The test was carried out under the following conditions.

1. Shrinkage was measured according to JIS LI042C.

2. The Crytm resistance test was performed according to JIS LI059D (Sanrei method).

Kris measurement conditions were temperature 24 degreeC, humidity 70%, the measurement time 1 hour, and the load 6 kg.

Recovery was performed at 3, 10, 30, 60 and 180 minutes after crissing.

The number of samples was six.

B. Lecture yarn of warp 31D / 2 (untreated sericin);

Sacrifice of weft 31D / 6 (the sericin settlement was not processed)

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (untreated sericin)

Speaker's Satin

(Normal soap or alkali refining)

C. Lecture of warp 31D / 2 (untreated sericin);

Weft 31D / 6 sacrifice (cyanate, sericin settled);

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (cyanate, sericin settled)

Speaker's Satin

(Special refining; swelling and enzymatic refining)

D. Lecture yarn of warp 31D / 2 (untreated sericin settlement);

Weaving of 31D / 6 wefts (cyanate, sericin settled)

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (untreated sericin)

Speaker's Satin

(Special refining; swelling and enzymatic refining)

E. Same yarn as C (except high pressure refining)

(Special refining; swelling and enzymatic refining)

The yarns described above were woven at the conditions of 126 times / minute using a weaving machine (Jaguar) manufactured by Tsudakoma. All of the 31D / 2 lecture yarns (those not treated with sericin fixation) were commonly used as warp yarns in the test. The results of the shrinkage and Chris resistance test show that the woven fabrics or knit fabrics (Samples C, D, and E) made with the present invention have better shrinkage resistance and performance than those of partially dyed fabrics (Sample B) subjected to conventional soap or alkali refining. It can be seen that the Chris has a resistance, excellent physical properties can be obtained only when the sericin fixing method for the weft.

Similarly, sericin produced degummed yarns reduced to 24% and the yarns were woven at 126 times / minute using a weaving machine (jaguar) manufactured by Tsudakoma. Was prepared satin. The shrinkage test results performed for each fabric are shown in Table 2. The absolute value and change over time for Kris recovery in the creep resistance test are shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, respectively.

G. Lectured warp of warp 31D / 2 (weaved or knitted after refining)

Sacrifice of weft 31D / 6 (a sericin settlement not treated);

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (untreated sericin)

(Normal soap or alkali refining)

F. Lectured warp of warp 31D / 2 (weaved or knitted after refining)

Weft 31D / 6 (weaving or knitting after refining);

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (untreated sericin)

(Normal soap or alkali refining; high pressure refining)

H. Lectured warp of warp 31D / 2 (weaved or knitted after refining)

Sacrifice of weft 31D / 6 (the sericin settled);

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (the sericin settled)

(Special refining; swelling and enzymatic refining)

I. Lectured warp of warp 31D / 2 (weaved or knitted after refining)

Weft 31D / 6 weaving (weaving or knitting after refining);

Floor weft of 21D / 6 (cinnarate; sericin settled)

(Special refining; swelling and enzymatic refining)

The fabric (Sample F) made using the warp yarn of 31D / 2 lectured warp yarn and the bottom weft of 31D / 6 yarn showed very good shrinkage resistance compared to the conventional fabric (Sample G). Chris recoverability was significantly lower than Sample B as shown in Table 1.

However, if the weft is treated with the sericin fixation method by the method of the present invention, the Chris recovery rate will exceed 91% and will be markedly improved.

Similarly, a yarn with silk 21D / 3 x rayon (Sylmax, Bright) comprising a composition ratio of 38% by weight silk and 62% by weight rayon was subjected to a twist at SZ 1600 t / m, followed by cone form. The warp was prepared by sericin fixative treatment of rosa. W. Georgette (Sample J) woven from silk was fabricated under 40 dents (3 leads) / inch, lead spacing 68 inches, total 8160 warp and perching 84 / inch. Weaving at 340 rpm using Picanor GT-S).

In addition, a yarn having silk 21D / 3 x Cupula (Benberg) 40D x 2 comprising a composition ratio of 34% by weight of silk and 64% by weight of cupula was twisted at SZ 1600 t / m, and then used in cone form. Was prepared by warping sericin. Silk W. Georgette (Sample K) was used in 40 dents (3 leads) / inch, lead spacing 68 inches, total 8160 warp and perching 84 / inch. Weaving at 340 rpm using S).

The fabric was treated by special refining methods (swelling and enzymatic refining). Tests similar to Tables 1 and 2 were performed. The export rate test results for each of the fabrics are shown in Table 3. Absolute values for Chris recoverability and changes over time are shown in FIGS. 7 and 8, respectively.

From these results, all of the fabrics made of cellulose fibers showed a high recovery rate in the Kris resistance test, but did not show very good shrinkage in the longitudinal direction because the yarns were used. This proves that the formation of the triazine backbone is advantageous not only in cellulose but also in silk.

Next, a fancy solid crepe fabric was made using the raw sand described below. The process of fixing sericin to the woven fabric was performed.

Warp: life of 27 denier; 8,320 spinning (2,080 x 4)

Lead Spacing 40.5cm

weft

(Bottom weft)

a. (1) Nine raw yarns of 21 denier were twisted in the S direction at 3,000 t / m.

(2) Three yarns of 21 denier were twisted in the Z direction at 2,800 t / m, combined with one yarn of 27 denier and twisted in the S direction.

The spinning yarns of (1) and (2) were joined in the Z direction at 400 t / m.

b. The twisted yarns were produced in the opposite direction in a similar manner to the above.

(Pattern weft)

c. (1) Six raw yarns of 21 denier were twisted in the S direction at 500 t / m (1).

(2) Nine raw yarns of 21 deniers were shot in the S direction at 500 t / m.

The yarns of (1) and (2) were joined in the Z direction at 400 t / m.

Weaving the weft (a), (b) and (c) prepared by weaving the fine weft and pattern weft in the order of (a), (b), (c) and (d) by a dobby weaving machine at 150rpm Tango crepe fabrics were made to be made.

L. Fancy solid crepe fabrics were conventional soap or alkali refined.

Sericin fixative treatment was performed on M. fancy solid crepe fabric.

(Processed at 10% by weight)

Special refining, swelling and enzyme refining were performed.

N. A sericin fixative treatment was performed on the fancy solid crepe fabric.

(Processed at 20% by weight)

Special refining, swelling and enzyme refining were performed.

O. Sericin fixative treatment was performed on the fancy solid crepe fabric.

(Processed at 20% by weight)

Special refining, swelling and enzyme refining (high pressure refining) were performed.

P. Ciniric chloride and sericin fixative treatments were performed on the bottom weft (c) of the fancy solid crepe fabrics described above.

Warp: The cinnamic chloride (or sericin fixation) treatment was optionally performed on the four warp yarns.

Weft: The sericin fixation treatment was performed on the bottom weft.

Special refining, swelling and enzyme refining were performed.

The shrinkage test results for each fabric are shown in Table 4. Absolute values for Chris recoverability and changes over time are shown in FIGS. 9 and 10, respectively.

Conventional solid crepe fabrics have been prepared through a variety of conventional combined steps to produce a pleated and flexible (or creasable) kimono. Conventional fabrics have been prepared by dissolving sericin with soap or alkali refining. In this case, the Kris recovery ability and shrinkage resistance did not improve, but the product of the present invention subjected to the process of fixing sericin to the cloth was found to have Kris recovery capacity, shrinkage resistance and form stability.

In addition, color fastness tests were performed on the following fabrics.

Q. Black blouse dyed with conventional direct dyes after soap or alkali refining of conventional fancy solid crepes.

The warp or weft (pattern weft) was subjected to sericin fixation (or process) using R. cyneric chloride. Special refining, swelling and enzymatic refining were carried out on the yarns using the conventional bottom weft described above as wefts. The bottom weft was redyed with an acidic dye to produce a colorless solid fabric.

Both S. warp and weft yarns were subjected to sericin fixation treatment using the ciniric chloride or sericin fixation process. Thereafter, weaving was performed using a reactive dye (Sumifix Block Ex gran). Black epigas was prepared by performing special refining, swelling and enzymatic refining.

Color fastness test results for each of the fabrics are shown in Tables 5-7.

The results shown in Tables 5 to 7 show that the fabrics subjected to the sericin fixation process exhibited improved color fastness without degrading the properties of the silk and that the silk fabrics had high form stability when the silk fabrics were dyed with reactive dyes. Proved that they had

The present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art described above, the object of the present invention is to apply the cross-linking reaction of the triazine skeleton using a method of fixing sericin in raw silk to improve the shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and morphological stability After improvement, there is provided a method for producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric comprising the step of removing sericin by using special refining and a woven fabric or knitted fabric produced therefrom.

In other words, it is impossible to dissolve sericin by 100% from the woven fabric or knitted fabric modified by the sericin fixing method using a conventional refining method. Therefore, a special refining method including the swelling and enzyme refining process devised by the researcher of the present invention and disclosed in Japanese patent application (patent application No. 8-61825 / corresponding international patent application PCT / JP / 96/01019) is used for sericin. Has been applied to dissolve.

A first aspect of the invention provides a method of making a woven or knitted fabric having shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and shape stability, comprising the following steps: raw sand and / Or processing and processing cellulose fibers; Doubling and twisting the processed and treated raw sand and / or cellulose fibers; Weaving or knitting the joined yarn to make a fabric; Dipping and swelling the woven or knitted fabric forming the fabric in a bath; And refining the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath using an enzyme.

Prior to weaving or knitting, a method of fixing sericin to silk is performed on raw sand and / or cellulose fibers. This allows the yarns to be hard twisted in the step of joining the silk and / or fibers to provide a woven or knitted fabric having excellent shrink resistance, chris resistance and form stability. Exposed fibroin by removing sericin from a woven or knitted fabric except for a portion (or thin film) of sericin by means of special refining, including swelling and enzyme refining steps devised by the researchers of the present invention to reveal the intrinsic silk properties. do. On the other hand, a portion (or thin film) of sericin in the woven or knitted fabric remains around the fibroin portion to maintain good shrinkage resistance, chris resistance and shape stability.

The invention as set forth in claim 2 is characterized in that it comprises a step of dyeing raw silk or cellulose fibers before the weaving or knitting step.

The invention as set forth in claim 3 is characterized in that the processing or treating step using the sericin fixing method is carried out using a reactive dye of cyanurate, a derivative thereof or a cyanuric acid derivative.

The invention according to claim 4 is characterized in that it comprises a processing refining step for washing the enzyme attached to the woven fabric or the knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining step, in which flexibility and water repellent treatment are simultaneously performed.

The invention as set forth in claim 5 is characterized by comprising a step of dyeing the woven fabric or knitted fabric after the enzymatic refining step.

A second aspect of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric or knitted fabric produced according to the method for producing the woven fabric or knitted fabric of any one of the claims.

Whereas the first aspect of the invention is processed and treated with yarns by the method of fixing sericin prior to weaving or knitting, the third aspect of the invention is processing and treating yarn with the method of fixing sericin after weaving or knitting.

A fourth aspect of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric or knitted fabric produced by the method for producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric of the third aspect of the present invention.

In the fifth aspect of the present invention, the composite yarn of the raw yarn and the cellulose fiber is used as a warp or the weft, or the warp is compared with the first aspect of the present invention using the raw yarn and / or cellulose fiber. And wefts.

A sixth aspect of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric or knitted fabric produced by the method of manufacturing the woven fabric or knitted fabric, which is the fifth aspect of the present invention.

Hereinafter, a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having excellent shrinkage resistance, Kris resistance, and morphological stability using sericin-fixed green yarn, cellulose fibers and their composite yarn according to the present invention, and a woven fabric produced by the method Or the knitted fabric is demonstrated in detail.

As shown in FIG. 1, the method for producing the woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention includes, in particular, the following steps: preparing a yarn material (step 1), processing and treating the yarn by sericin fixing method ( Step 2), joining the yarns (step 3), weaving or knitting the yarns (step 4), swelling the woven fabric or knitted fabric (step 5) and the woven fabric or knitted fabric with enzyme Refining using (step 6).

The yarn material may include raw yarns, cellulose fibers, and composite yarns thereof. The yarn material is processed and processed by the method of fixing sericin. As a method for fixing sericin, various methods may be used as described above. Among the methods for fixing sericin, cyanate used in Japanese Patent Publication Nos. 40-8050 and 2,559,302 and its Preference is given to using reactive dyes such as derivatives or cyanuric acid derivatives.

The raw sand and / or cellulose fibers processed and processed by the sericin fixing method are brought together. For example, raw silk has the advantage that sericin can be settled around the fibroin portion of raw silk, and the silk can be lectured. These yarns and / or twisted yarns are used as warp and / or weft yarns to be woven or knitted. Thus, the woven or knitted fabric has excellent shrinkage resistance, chris resistance and shape stability.

Woven fabrics or knit fabrics produced under these conditions have a stiffness and sericin settled in the fibroin core and thus have an intrinsic matte and inflexible nature to silk. Therefore, a special refining process including swelling and enzymatic refining steps devised by the researchers of the present invention is carried out to remove sericin, thereby removing sericin except for some (or thin film) sericin present in the woven or knitted fabric. So that the fibroin part is exposed. On the other hand, sericin present in a portion (or thin film) of the woven fabric or knitted fabric remains around the fibroin portion to maintain good shrink resistance, cris resistance and shape stability of the woven fabric or knitted fabric.

The dyeing step can be carried out before the weaving or knitting step (step 4), which is preferably carried out simultaneously with the step of fixing the sericin (step 2). This is because the dyeing can be uniform and beautiful when the dyeing process is performed after the sericin is fixed. Instead of or in addition to the yarn dyeing process before weaving or knitting, a step of dyeing the refined woven fabric or knitted fabric after the enzymatic scouring of step 6 may be performed.

Since sericin located on the front and back surfaces of the woven fabric or knitted fabric is removed from the periphery of the fibroin portion, there is an advantage that the woven fabric or knitted fabric can be dyed beautifully.

The processing refining step of washing and removing the enzyme attached to the woven or knitted fabric may be performed after the enzyme refining step of step 6. Flexibility imparting and water repellent treatment are preferably performed in parallel during this processing and refining step.

Hereinafter, with reference to FIG. 2, the manufacturing method of the woven fabric or knitted fabric which is a 3rd aspect of this invention is demonstrated.

While the first aspect of the invention is that the spinning is processed and processed using a method of fixing sericin prior to weaving or knitting, the third aspect of the invention is to fix sericin after weaving or knitting with saga fabrics. Machining and processing are carried out using a method of making. That is, the manufacturing method of the woven fabric or knitted fabric according to the third aspect includes the weaving and knitting step (step 11), the processing and processing step by the sericin fixing method (step 12), the swelling step (step 13) of the woven fabric and the woven fabric. Or, refining the knitted fabric with an enzyme (step 14).

Woven fabrics or knitted fabrics are typically fabricated using raw yarns, cellulose fibers or composite twisted yarns thereof, such as soaking, drying, winding, first twisting, joining and final twisting and setting, and the like. Manufactured through well known steps. Woven fabrics or knitted fabrics are processed by using a method of fixing sericin of raw silk. Processing and treatment processes according to the sericin fixing method, swelling of woven or knitted fabric, enzyme refining process, dyeing process and refining process are performed in the same manner as the method of the first aspect described above.

The method of fixing sericin to live sand according to the present invention improves shrinkage resistance, chris resistance and morphological stability. Industrial applicability of the present invention is as follows.

First, the goal of developing new kimono products to satisfy market demand in the Japanese apparel market depends on the development of a new form of silk. The problem with conventional Japanese fabrics is that conventionally dyed silk products (kimono) after soap or alkali refining do not have sufficient shrinkage resistance, cream resistance and color fastness. Studies on sericin-established yarns are carried out at the Institute of Agriculture, Forestry, and Sleep. According to a report from the institute, sericin-fixed yarns depend heavily on the degree of sericin settling, and if the amount of residual sericin increases, Chris recovers slowly, but there is no problem with stretch strength.

The crosslinking reaction to form the triazine backbone caused by the sericin fixation method according to the present invention improves the shrinkage resistance, cris resistance and morphological stability of the new type of yarn in combination with the special refining, swelling and enzymatic refining of the present invention.

Second, it has been demonstrated that the sericin fixation method can be applied to cellulose fibers as well as silk. In this way, the physical properties of both fibers are improved and improved.

Third, a method for processing a new type of fabric includes an epoxy resin and a urethane resin, and further includes a shape memory treatment using formalin, ammonia, or the like. However, methods of processing and processing such fabrics are not useful because they can adversely affect the human body or cause destruction of the global environment such as the ozone layer. In contrast, skin application tests on 20 subjects indicated that the fabrics produced according to the present invention had no detrimental effect on the human body (created by Nihon Sangyo Hifu Eisei Kyokai / Industrial Dermatology Research Institute). Skin Application Test Report / Registration No. 13417-1).

Fourth, it has been demonstrated that the sericin fixation method can improve and improve the resistance to color change, discoloration and contamination. Therefore, the present invention has a very high industrial applicability.

Table 1 Shrinkage Test Results

Portrait (%) Landscape (%)

B 6.3 0.8

C 8.5 0.1

D 7.0 0.0

E 7.3 0.0

B, C and D and E were 9, 6 and 3 averages, respectively.

Table 2 Shrinkage Test Results

Portrait (%) Landscape (%)

[1- # F] 3.7 0.9

[1- # G] 4.0 0.5

[1- # H] 4.2 0.3

[1- # I] 4.5 0.9

The result was nine averages.

Table 3 Shrinkage Test Results

Portrait (%) Landscape (%)

J 10.6 1.3

K 5.7 2.5

The result was nine averages.

Table 4 Shrinkage Rate Test Results

Portrait (%) Landscape (%)

L 11.6 1.9

M 9.8 0.4

N 6.6 0.2

O 7.1 0.2

P 0.4 0.0

L and O and M, N and P were 9 and 6 averages, respectively.

Table 5 Color Fastness Test (Sample Q)

Carbon arc light test (JIS L0842) second exposure method

Discoloration and fading 6 grade

Friction test using type II test machine (JIS L0849)

(Dry) 4-5 grade

(Wetting) 2-3 grade

Laundry test (JIS L0844)

Dry Cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration and fading grades 4-5

Pollution Level 3 (Cotton)

Hydrothermal Test (JIS L0845)

Cold water test (JIS L0846)

Sweating test method A (JIS L0848)

(Acidic) discoloration and fading 5 grade

Pollution Level 3 (Silk)

(Alkaline) discoloration and fading grades 4-5

Pollution Grade 1-2 (Silk)

1 to 2 grades (cotton)

Table 6 Color Fastness Test (Sample R)

Carbon arc light test (JIS L0842) second exposure method

Discoloration and fading 4 grade

Friction test using type II test machine (JIS L0849)

5 stars (dry)

5 grades (wet)

Washing test using C-1S method (JIS L0844)

Discoloration and fading 3 grade

Pollution Grade 3-4 (Silk)

5 ratings (cotton)

Dry Cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration and fading 5 grade

Pollution Grade 3-4 (nylon)

Hydrothermal Test (JIS L0845)

Cold water test (JIS L0846)

Discoloration and fading grades 3-4

Pollution Grade 2-3 (Silk)

4 ratings (cotton)

Sweating test method A (JIS L0848)

(Acidic) discoloration and fading grades 3-4

Pollution Level 3 (Silk)

5 ratings (cotton)

(Alkaline) discoloration and fading grades 3-4

Pollution Grade 2-3 (Silk)

4 to 5 grades (cotton)

Table 7 Color Fastness Test (Sample S)

Carbon arc light test (JIS L0842) second exposure method

Discoloration and fading 5 to 6 grade

Friction test using type II test machine (JIS L0849)

5 stars (dry)

(Wet) 4-5 grade

Laundry test (JIS L0844)

Dry Cleaning (JIS L0840)

Discoloration and fading 4 grade

Pollution Grade 3-4 (nylon)

Hydrothermal Test (JIS L0845)

Cold water test (JIS L0846)

Sweating test method A (JIS L0848)

(Acidic) discoloration and fading 5 grade

Pollution Level 3 (Silk)

5 ratings (cotton)

(Alkaline) discoloration and fading 5 grade

Pollution Level 5 (Silk)

5 ratings (cotton)

Claims (28)

Processing and processing raw sand and / or cellulose fibers using sericin fixation of green sand; Combining the processed and treated raw yarns and / or cellulose fibers to produce a conjugated yarn; Weaving or knitting the conjugated twisted yarn to produce a woven or knitted fabric; Dipping and swelling the woven or knitted fabric forming the fabric in a bath; And Enzymatic refining of the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath Method of producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric having a shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and shape stability comprising a. The method of claim 1, further comprising the step of dyeing the raw sand or cellulose fibers prior to the weaving or knitting step. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the processing and processing steps using the sericin fixing method are carried out using one reactive dye selected from the group consisting of cyanurate, derivatives thereof and cyanuric acid derivatives. Manufacturing method. The woven fabric or knitted fabric of claim 1, further comprising a processing scouring step for cleaning the enzyme attached to the woven fabric or the knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step, wherein the flexibility and the water repellent treatment are simultaneously performed during the processing scouring step. Way. The method of claim 1, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven fabric or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining. The method of claim 2, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. A woven or knitted fabric made by the method of any one of claims 1 to 6. Weaving or knitting raw sand and / or cellulose fibers to produce a woven or knitted fabric; Processing and processing the woven or knitted fabric using sericin fixation of raw silk; Dipping and swelling the processed and treated woven or knitted fabric forming a cloth in a bath; And Enzymatic refining of the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath Method of producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric having a shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and shape stability comprising a. The method of producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein the raw yarn or cellulose fibers are predyed to a desired color. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein the processing and processing steps using the sericin fixing method are performed using one reactive dye selected from the group consisting of cyanurate, derivatives thereof and cyanuric acid derivatives. Way. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 8, further comprising a processing scouring step for cleaning the enzyme attached to the woven fabric or the knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step, wherein the flexibility and the water repellent treatment are simultaneously performed during the processing scouring step. Way. 10. The method of claim 8, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. 10. The method of claim 9, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. Woven or knitted fabric produced by the method of any one of claims 8-13. Processing and processing composite twisted yarn of raw silk and cellulose fibers using a sericin fixation method of raw silk; Combining the processed and processed composite twisted yarns to produce a twisted yarn; Weaving or knitting the braided yarn as at least warp or weft to produce a woven or knitted fabric; Dipping and swelling the woven or knitted fabric forming the fabric in a bath; And Enzymatic refining of the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath Method of producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric having a shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and shape stability comprising a. 16. The method of claim 15, further comprising the step of dyeing green or cellulosic fibers prior to the weaving or knitting step. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 15, wherein the processing and processing steps using the sericin fixing method are carried out using one reactive dye selected from the group consisting of cyanurate, derivatives thereof and cyanuric acid derivatives. Manufacturing method. 16. The woven fabric or knitted fabric of claim 15, further comprising a processing scouring step for cleaning the enzyme attached to the woven fabric or the knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step, wherein the flexibility and the water repellent treatment are simultaneously performed during the processing scouring step. Way. The method of claim 15, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven fabric or knitted fabric after the enzyme refining. 17. The method of claim 16 further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. 21. A woven or knitted fabric made by the method of any one of claims 15-20. Weaving or knitting a composite twisted yarn of green and cellulose fibers at least as warp or weft to produce a woven or knitted fabric; Processing and processing the woven or knitted fabric using sericin fixation of raw silk; Dipping and swelling the processed and treated woven or knitted fabric forming a cloth in a bath; And Enzymatic refining of the swollen woven fabric or knitted fabric in a bath Method of producing a woven fabric or knitted fabric having a shrinkage resistance, Chris resistance and shape stability comprising a. 23. The method of claim 22, wherein the composite twisted yarn is prestained to the desired color. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 22, wherein the processing and processing steps using the sericin fixing method are performed using one reactive dye selected from the group consisting of cyanurate, derivatives thereof, and cyanuric acid derivatives. Manufacturing method. 23. The woven fabric or knitted fabric according to claim 22, further comprising a processing scouring step for cleaning the enzyme attached to the woven fabric or the knitted fabric after the enzyme scouring step, wherein the flexibility and the water repellent treatment are simultaneously performed during the processing scouring step. Way. 23. The method of claim 22 further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. 24. The method of claim 23, further comprising the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric refined after the enzyme refining. 28. A woven or knitted fabric made by the method of any one of claims 22-27.