Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

• This invention relates to compositions of matter useful for strengthening and reconditioning overporous or otherwise damaged hair and to processes or procedures for employing such compositions. More particularly, it relates to compositions and processes or procedures of these types which are useful in treating living human hair on the head of a subject.
• overporous or otherwise damaged hair may be strengthened and reconditioned in a manner which renders these beneficial changes relatively permanent. These changes are brought about by treating hair with a polymerizable material of a character and under conditions which permanently incorporates solid insoluble polymeric reinforcing material in the hair that is not removed by shampooing. It is observed in the practice of this invention that overporous or otherwisedamaged hair, after treatment with the present compositions, is not only stronger, but also firmer and less rubbery when wet. Moreover, it has a smoother texture, higher luster, improved control properties and enhanced water set retention when dry.
• hair which is overporous or otherwise damaged is treated with a polymerizable vinylic monomer having an acid forming group.
• the vinylic monomer taken up by the hair is polymerized, and the polymer chain so formed is rendered less soluble by the action of a bridging agent capable of bridging polymer chains together.
• the vinylic monomer because of the relatively small size of the molecule and the conditions of treatment penetrates into the interior of the hair structure. Inside the hair structure the vinylic monomer is polymerized to relatively long chain molecules which because of their size cannot readily leave the interior of the hair structure. Furthermore, the action of the polymer chain bridging agent further insolu-bilizes the polymer chains and locks them within the hair structure. This action serves to restore the overporous or otherwise damaged hair to a condition resembling the natural condition of the hair.
• the processes of the present invention may be practiced by applying the polymerizable vinylic monomer and bridging agent either serially or simultaneously.
• the polymerizable vinylic monomer is first applied and allowed to partially or totally polymerize.
• the bridging agent is then applied to complete the treatment and to lock the polymer inside the hair structure.
• the polymerizable vinylic monomer and bridging agent are used simultaneously, they are preferably simply dissolved in one solution and applied to the hair.
• the polymerization of the vinylic monomer may be brought about by heat as, for example, by passing a hot comb through the hair saturated with vinylic monomer.
• a polymerization catalyst system e.g., redox catalyst, or other free radical forming system, may be used to initiate and accelerate the polymerization or make it capable of proceeding at lower temperatures that can be tolerated by the human subject.
• acid forming groups are important for the purposes of the present invention in that they provide cities at which neighboring polymer chains may be bridged b means of bridging agents utilized in this invention to render the polymer less soluble.
• acid forming groups is intended to encompass the acid groups per se, the salts of these acids, as well as groups which will be converted into acid groups or salts under the conditions of use of the present invention.
• polymerizable vinylic compounds that may be used in accordance with the present invention to further insolubilize the polymerized vinylic formula:
• X is selected from the group consisting of acid groups and salts thereof (e.g., COOH, SO H).
• the following polymerizable vinylic compounds may be mentioned: acrylic acids, sodium acrylate, monoethanolamine acrylate, potassium acrylate, calcium acrylate, methacrylic acids, sodium methacrylate, monoethanolamine methacrylate, potassium methacrylate, calcium methacrylate, itaconic acid, and salts of itaconic acids.
• the bridging agents used in accordance with the present invention to further insolubilize the polymerized vinylic compounds formed can be of a variety of types.
• One of the preferred classes of bridging agent comprises watersoluble compounds (i.e., salts, hydroxides, oxides, etc.) of elements of Group II or III of the Periodic Table capable of yielding multivalent cations (divalent, trivalent, etc. cations). These are believed to function as bridging agents through the formation of a salt like structure involving the acid groups of neighboring polymeric chains and the cations of the bridging agents.
• These bridges can be visualized in the case wherein the polymerizable vinylic compounds is a carboxylic acid compound, and the bridging agent is a calcium salt or other calcium compound as follows:
• A is a polymeric chain.
• A is a polymeric chain.
• the following compounds can serve as bridging agents which will supply the cationic type bridge: CaCl ZnCl BaCl Al (SO and difunctional quaternary ammonium compounds such as: N-Tallow, N,N-dimethyl-N'-N-N'-trimethyl 1,3-propylene diammonium chloride (Aliquat 726); N-Tallow-1,3- propylenediaminedioleate (Diam 26 Dioleate).
• Another class of bridging agent that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be described as agents capable of providing long chain organic monovalent cation.
• the mechanism by which these long chain cations work to provide a bridge between neighboring polymer chains is not quite clear. However, it is believed that this probably involves chain entanglement.
• this class bridging agent may be exemplified by the mono functional alkyl quaternary ammonium compounds or alkyl primary amines, e.g. cetyl pyridinium chloride; cetyl trimethylammonium chloride; stearyl amide.
• a catalyst system is provided to facilitate the polymerization of vinylic monomer. This is particularly useful in those aspects of the present invention in which the polymerization is to be effected at relatively low temperatures.
• the catalysts employed are those which are capable of producing free radicals to initiate the polymerization.
• catalyst systems are useful in this connection. These usually take the form of a redox system involving the combination of an oxidation agent and a reducing agent.
• redox catalyst systems useful for the present purposes may be mentioned: (NH )S O /NaHSO H O /Fe+ S O /RSH; Fe /H50 Ce+ /R-OH; KmmO /citric acid.
• a swelling agent in the treating compositions.
• These materials are generally basic in nature and give the treating solutions a relatively high pH. A pH between 8 and 9 or 10 is particularly suitable for this purpose. However, a pH of between 7 and 11 will also serve the present purposes.
• any of a number of bases both organic and inorganic may be used to obtain the suitable pH.
• monoethanolamine, NaOH, KOH, NH Ca(OH) The concentration of vinylic monomer, bridging agent, catalyst or initiator system (when employed) and time of treatment that are utilized in accordance with the present invention are interrelated and may be varied considerably. Any combination of these parameters which result in the incorportion into the hair structure of a polymer of high enough molecular weight to reinforce the hair strength will serve the purposes of this invention. This will be made clearer by a discussion of the mechanism of the polymerization reaction believed to be operating in the present invention.
• the rate of conversion of monomer to polymer is made up of three steps: initiation, propagation, and termination.
• the initiation step consists of forming monomer free radicals, either by direct activation, or by forming other free radicals which then add to monomer.
• the rate of formation of monomer radicals (initiation) will be proportional to the monomer concentration and also the concentration of initiating radicals (which will in turn be proportional to initiator concentrations).
• the propagation step will be primarily dependent on monomer concentration. This is the step which, relative to the initiation and termination steps, determines the molecular weight of the polymer formed (i.e., if propagation is fast compared to the termination and initiation steps, the molecular weight of the polymer formed will be high).
• the rate of the termination step is proportional to the total concentration of all radicals; initiator, monomer, and growing chain species. (See, for example, P. J. Flory, Principles of Polymer Chemistry, Cornell University Press, 1953, chapter 4.)
• the time of treatment cannot be unduly long. This must be taken into consideration in determining the concentration of the components of the compositions utilized in this invention, since the time interval during which a proper degree of polymerization takes place in dependent on the concentration of the various components of the composition.
• the concentration of vinylic monomer and catalyst system is therefore selected so that a sufficient degree of polymerization will take place so as to reinforce the hair within a time period generally used in the beauty trade for treating hair on the human head.
• the concentration of vinylic monomer present in the solution used either serially with the bridging agent and/or simultaneously with the bridging agent will be in the range of .05 M to 2.5 M.
• the bridging agent is generally used in the concentration range of .05 M to 2.5 M, the divalent bridging agent usually being employed in the range of .05 M to 1.25 M and the monovalent agent in the range of .1 M to 2.5 M.
• the concentration of the catalyst can also vary. In general, however, it will fall in the range of from .0005 M to .025 M.
• the relative amounts of each component may also vary.
• the pH of the composition will generally be the governing factor. Where, for example, the composition has a pH of from about 8 to 9, the molar ratio of oxidizing agent to reducing agent will ordinarily be greater than 1 and falling in the range of about 1:1 to 13:1 and preferably about 1:1 to 3:1. Where, however, the pH is or higher, the reducing agent may even be dispensed with.
• the time during which the vinylic polymerization is allowed to proceed will also vary. In general, however, this will be between 5 to 60 minutes. In the case where a hot comb is used in the treatment, the polymerization is practically instantaneous.
• the bridging agent When the bridging agent is used simultaneously with the vinylic monomer, it, obviously, will be allowed to act over the same period of time as the vinylic monomer. However, where the bridging agent is applied after the application of the vinylic monomer, it is permitted to remain in contact with the hair over a period of 1 to 10 minutes and ideally for 5 minutes.
• the treating solution is prepared immediately before use.
• the hair on the subjects head is saturated with the single solution containing all of the ingredients mentioned above, and the excess solution is combed out of the hair.
• the hair may then be left uncovered while the treating solution is doing its work or it may be covered with a towel or plastic turban.
• the subject may be placed under a dryer or other source of heat.
• the time duration over which the treating solution is allowed to act on the hair will vary with the original condition of the hair, temperature, composition, effect desired, etc. In general, however, in this aspect of the invention, the treatment will last for 10 to 30 minutes.
• the hair is then lightly rinsed off with lukewarm water and is ready for further cosmetic procedures at the option of the user, e.g., setting with pins or rollers and drying.
• the materials are applied to the head in two steps.
• the polymerizable vinylic polymer and catalyst system are applied to the hair, and the polymerization is allowed to proceed for a period of time.
• the bridging agent is applied to complete the process.
• the procedure is to be carried out in two steps, a more active catalyst or initiator system can be used.
• This is possible because without the bridging agent a precipitate will not form before the solution is worked into the hair. This is due to the fact that, although some polymer is formed before application to the hair, this polymer remains soluble in the absence of the bridging agent.
• the treating solution (which does not in this case contain bridging agent) is poured through the hair, and the excess is combed out.
• the desired time interval e.g. 10 to 30 minutes
• the hair is lightly rinsed, and a solution of bridging agent is poured through the hair and allowed to remain for 2 to 10 minutes. The hair is rinsed again and is ready for further procedures (as setting, etc.)
• the active ingredients utilized in the present invention may be applied in any suitable form. Thus, they may be applied as solutions, gels, creams, foams, lotions, etc.
• composition utilized in the present invention may also contain other ingredients and particularly those which facilitate the application of the active ingredients to the hair.
• a surfactant may be included to enhance the wetting property of the formulas employed.
• Non-ionic surfactants are particularly suitable in compositions which are used in connection with the hot comb technique.
• EXAMPLE 1 The following four aqueous solutions were mixed together immediately before use and applied to hair at room temperature by wetting and combing through:
• the above treatment took place in two steps.
• the first step involved polymerizing the monomer, and the second step, the crosslinking of the polymer with the divalent 101'1S.
• *Pluronic F68 (MW. 8000) is a condensate of ethylene oxide with a. hydrophobic base formed by condensing propylene oxide with propylene glycol. After 10 minutes the entire head is rinsed lightly and then placed under the hot air dryer. When the hair is dry, the hair is combed with a hot comb and curled with a hot curling iron. What has been observed is the following: On most of the heads, the treated side had the following qualities as compared to the nutreated side: more sheen, smoother, more bounce, better combability, and took a longer processing time to straighten when chemical relaxers were used later on (indicating that the treated hair was less porous).
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair with an aqueous solution containing by weight, 9.6% monoethanolamine acrylate, .004% (NHQ S O .0001% NaHSO and 3.6% CaCl and allowing said solution to remain in contact with said hair for 10 to 30 minutes to cause said acrylate and CaCl to form a water insoluble bridged polymer, said solution having a pH of about 9.
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair with an aqueous solution containing by weight about 10.5% monoethanolamine methacrylate, .004% (NH S O 3.6% CaCl and .000l% of NaHSO and allowing said solution to remain in contact with said hair for 10 to 30 minutes to cause said methacrylate and CaCl to form a water insoluble bridged polymer, said solution having a pH of about 9.
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair with an aqueous solution containing by weight 20% sodium acrylate, .4% NaHSO and 1% (NH S O for sufiicient time to permit polymerization of said acrylate and then wetting said hair with a 5% by weight aqueous solution of CaCl for to 30 minutes to permit the bridging of said polymerized acrylate.
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair for a period of about 10 to 30 minutes with an aqueous solution containing by weight about 20% sodium acrylate, .4% NaHSO and 1% (NH S O and then wetting said hair for a period of about 1 to 10 minutes with about a 5% by weight aqueous solution of CaCl 5.
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair with an aqueous solution containing by weight 8.5% sodium acrylate and 6.1% CaCl and subjecting the hair so treated to heat.
• a process for reconditioning damaged hair which comprises wetting said hair with an aqueous solution containing by weight about 8.5% of sodium acrylate and 6.1% CaCl for a period of about 10 to 30 minutes and then subjecting the hair so treated to heat to polymerize and bridge said sodium acrylate.
• a polymerizable composition of matter comprising an aqueous solution containing by weight about 9.6% monoethanolamine acrylate, .0004% (NH4)2S208, .0001% NaHSO and 3.6% C-aC1 8.
• a polymerizable composition of matter comprising an aqueous solution containing by weight 10.5 monoethanolamine methacrylate, .004% (NI-1.9 8 0 .0001% NaHSO and 3.6% CaCl 9.
• a process for strengthening and reconditioning overporous and damaged hair which comprises treating said hair for a period of from about 5 to 60 minutes with an aqueous composition containing:
• a water soluble polymerizable vinylic monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, sodium acrylate, monoethanolamine acrylate, potassium acrylate, calcium acrylate, methacrylic acid, sodium methacrylate, monoethanolamine methacrylate, potassium methacrylate, calcium methacrylate and itaconic acid in the concentration range of about 0.5 M to 2.5 M;
• a bridging agent selected from the class consisting of CaCI ZnCl BaCl Al (SO N-tallow, N,N-dimethyl-N,N',N'-trimethyl-1, 3-propylene diammonium chloride and N-tallow-l, 3-propylenediamine-dioleate in the concentration range of from about .05 M to 2.5 M and (c) a redox catalyst system selected from the group consisting of S20g/NaHSO3; H O /Fe+ S O /RSH; Fe /H80 Ce' /R-OH and KmnO citric acid in the concentration range of .0005 M to .025 M.

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Citations (10)

• 1965
  • 1965-09-27 US US490690A patent/US3472243A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1966
  • 1966-08-12 GB GB36287/66A patent/GB1158346A/en not_active Expired
  • 1966-09-16 FR FR76612A patent/FR1502803A/fr not_active Expired
  • 1966-09-19 DE DE19661617379 patent/DE1617379A1/de active Pending
  • 1966-09-20 CH CH1349966A patent/CH488457A/de not_active IP Right Cessation

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