US2667643A

US2667643A - elman

Info

Publication number: US2667643A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1954-02-02
Anticipated expiration: 1971-02-02

Description

1954 l. J. ELMAN WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION File'd Feb. 15, 1951 m m w m ISAJJDRE J. ELMAN ATTUPNEY Patented Feb. 2, 1954 Z,tt7,643

UNITED STATES FATENT OFFICE WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION Isadore J. Elman, Cazenovia, N. Y. Application February 15, 1951, Serial No. 211,129

1 Claim.

This invention relates to a waistband construction, and more particularly to a, construction in which the waistband lining and adjacent garment cloth are secured Without resort to unsightly or blind stitching.

In garment waistband constructions, there is generally provided a buckram backing or stiffening strip and lining material which, together with the body garment material, substantially enclose such stiffening strip, all for the purpose of providing the necessary waistband stiffness. It is desirable that such construction, which gives body or stiffness to the garment material around the waistband, be affixed to such garment material by means invisible from the outward face of the garment. Resort has been made to blind stitching, where the body garment material is continuous, and where a separate waistband strip is attached to the body garment material, attempt has been made to lay the stitching in the seam therebetween or immediately adjacent thereto. The latter constructions require unusual care in the placing of the stitches, resulting in a slow operation and time-consuming care to prevent the production of irregular or unsightly appearing garments.

It is an object of the present invention to eliminate the need for such stitching completely from the outside face of the garment through utilization of a bonding construction, rapid in operation and requiring little skill.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a waistband construction in which a bonding means is employed for securing the backing construction to the body garment over a relatively broad area and along substantially the entire waistband length.

Still a further object of the invention is the utilization of bonding means in the form of thermo heat-setting plastic for the purpose of securing the waistband stiffening and lining construction to the body garment, whereby such elements may be permanently secured by the application of heat.

A further ob ect of the invention is the provision of a construction readily adaptable to waistband con tructions embodying continuous or separate waistbands, as well as various lining arrangements, the constructions being permanent, low cost, and providing a pleasing outward an internal appearance.

The abo"e and other no el features of the invention will ap ear m re ful here nafter from the fo low ng d t iled description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. It

is expressly understood that the drawings are employed for purposes of illustration only and are not designed as a definition of the limits of the invention, reference being had for this purpose to the appended claim.

In the drawings, in which like reference characters indicate like parts:

Figure l is a side elevation showing a pair of trousers, to which the invention may be applied;

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line 2-2 of Figure l, of the construction prior to the application of heat in the bonding operation;

Figure 3 is a section taken substantially on the line 2-2 of Figure 1, showing the waistband construction in its completed form;

Figure 4 is a modified form of the invention,

parts being broken away and shown in section for illustrative purposes;

Figure 5 is a further adaptation of the invention, parts being broken away and shown in section; and

Figure 6 is a further application of the invention, parts being broken away and shown in section.

In Figures 1, 2, and 3, there is shown a waistband construction which may be adapted to a pair of trousers or other garment having at waistband construction similar thereto. As shown, there is provided a waistband stiifening strip I6 which may be in the form of a strip of buckram backing or the like, preferably felted on the inide face, to which is stitched at its upper edge as at E2 the waistband strip it of the body garment material l4 and a facing or lining material E6, referred to as a curtain. In the arrangement shown, the facing or lining is formed of t o strips of material it and 2G, which may be twill or the like, stitched together as at 22 and to the stiffening strip It ad acent the lower edge thereof. Where the facing 01' lining is formed'of double stri s in this manner, it is referred to as a double curtain lining construction. The body garment materi l in th form shown com r es a separate waistband strip l3 stitched as at 26 to the main body arment 28 proper.

It has heretofore been common practice in a construction of the t me described. wherein the body garment m terial is h nd strip. to stitch the lower mar inal e ge of the stiffening 3!! stri Iii to the waistband strip either by stitching pl ced closelv ad acent to the stitch n 28 and. runn ng parallel therewi h. or st tching in the seam such stitchin coinciding with the seam provided with a wai=:t

stitching so as to be substantially hidden to all intents and purposes. In order to avoid the necessity for such stitching, which often appears unsightly, Where absolute parallelism is not maintained, there is provided in accordance with the invention a strip of thermo heat-setting plastic 32, which may be readily placed in position by tucking an edge thereof be tween the lower marginal edge 30 of the buclrram backing-strip ands-the dependingfold of facing or lininfg material 2"9i. The strip of plastici s. of a width slightly less than that of the depending portion of the lining material, so as to avoid having any portion thereof exposed. Upon positioning such strip in the manner describedfitheide pending lining portion is pressed as by a hot iron 34 against the body garment proper; which issupported upon a yielding ironingibuck'. ,The heat and pressure fuse the plastic strip, causing the opposed surfaces thereof to soften and' the adjacent fabric surfaces, the result being to provide: abondingzbetween the body garmentma- 1 terial prhper: and the depending trim strip 1, through the agency ofi'such heat-setting plastic. The thermo heat-settingplastic; thereby affords a broad strip area of bonding between the ad- 'jacent 'fabrics; providing high strength. At the same time, there is created a; ne'at appearing garment free from the stitching operation heretofore re'ferred'to.

T The thermo'heat-settihg plastic m'ay consist of a thin 'strip: of vinyl; independently placed bettv'een the: fabrics the manner described, or may constitute a layer strip bonded to thelining flow into cm'aterial' prior. toassemblage of the garment 0011- structionas shown Figure 2. It may comprise a carrier strip of: cloth, such" as ZO-s'qu'a're print 'clo'thmaving the heat-setting plastic on opposite I'si'des. In any' event, the plastic'is set byheat,

which may be of the order of 375 F., and forms the .bond' b'etwe'en v the lining. and garment materials upon the applicationof heat.

The plastic chosen should have characteristics such that it may be heat set by a hot iron in the manner described," and be resistant to the usual cleaning fluids to which garments are subjected.

-ltawillabe at once appreciated 'that each' time a "garment constructed in the manner described is subjected. we pressing operation, the bond between such plastic strip and? the adjacent materials will beenh'ance'd; and that by such an arrangemeht; ithe adjacenti materials are permanently secured 'inan improved manner.

'z'The 'invention isapplicable to variations in waistband constructions,..as;- fori example, illus- 't-rated' inFigures 4;!5; and 6. In Figure 4, there is shown the-usual buckr'am strip 49 to which is secured'the body'garmen't material 42,1ahd facing or double curtain. comprised ofstrips' 34 and "d5,

'theupperr strip and the garment material being stitched to the upper-edge. o'f .the buclrra'm strip at 8 Thetstrips elifand seal-e stitched to- "gtherxas at 5B and stitched .tcthe buckram strip adjacent its lower edgel Astrip of thermo heat- "settingrplasticit? is positioned" between the" strip i a: and. by application of heat and pressure,

caused to bond the garmentm'ate'ri'aldz to the "strip dfi. In the arrangement shown, the body "garment" material is continuous, there being eliminated? the waistbandfstrim so that 'by' such 1 construction; itheiiblind "stitching heretofore ire- 'lfilfllfidftfl asthma-ed. to secure th'e'liiiing to the biady'garment-is dispensed with.

IniFigure? 5; thei'liriing-"s'trip' 5 3 comprises 'a sifiglestrim'referred to as a single curtain, and such strip is securedas attt and 58 to the buckmaterial .66 by-a stripe ofthermo heat-setting plastic 59.

While the stiifening element of buckram has eeen described as common practice, it will be understood that any strip of material having strengthLinLthe direction around the waistband may be used. Where the body garment material may serve the additional purpose of providing waistbandqstifi-ness or strength, such strip of buclqram or other material may be eliminated, in

which case the lining strip or curtain will be secured to the upper edge of the body garment, substantially inth'e manner: illustrated: but without thebuckram elenientgand the: lower fold-secured to the body garment material by *heatsetthermoplastic in; the. manner. described. Such a construction may be efficaciouswhere' a separate waistbandistrip. of thesbo dy garmentmaterial is employedras in'l ligures 1 to3; it being understood that where such: separate strip is used, greatestfstrength exhibited; in a. direction around thewai'stband'.

The various constructions.zillustratedl serve to illustrate the. adaptability of'lthe bonding; construction, utilize'dto secure theiloweredge'portion'of the stiffening andtlinirrg' assemblageto "the body garment without recourse to" the: unsightly stitching, or blindstitching herein referred to. The constructionhiseone "which: provides increased strength eliminating stitching which localizesstresses, with a tendency-to rupture the cloth or rip: the-seams upon the oc'currence'of severe stresses. WheIe' thef 'bonding'fstrip is secured to? the lining strip in advance of the. assembling, the -'only operation'required" toefie'ct the result described. is-ftha't of applying heat and pressure, operations".whi'ch may begenerally effected in any event.

J The: use 'ofithe' hp riding means" described; when applied in a manner so as. to extend substantially to the edge of the-lower fcldr-thereof, servesto hold? the lining flat against and inbondedvenbody garment, a condition occurring in presently knowncommon constructions herein referred to,

embodying the stitching eliminated by the present invention. I g

It will appear to'those "skilled in the a'rtthat the existence of packets and the like which may be secured at their upper end in newss and construction willgerfera'lly be secured to the curtain W er -.lying.,.betwee1rthe cu ai an h bodygarment' by the heat setti'ng plastic bonding strip,v and thatby such arrangement, the-pocket structure will hangfromthe waistband assemblage rather. than acombination. thereof and the Whileseveral; embodiments-pf :the invention rhavez-been; illnstratedanddescribed, it-is to-be understood that the invention' is'not, limited thereto. As various-changes 'ifithif' construction and; arrangement Jmay' bef'm'ade'witlioutfdepartingfr'omth'e' spirit of theinventionj as will be'apparent to those skilled in the art, referer'ic'e ii/ill 5 be had to the appended claim for a definition of the limits of the invention.

What is claimed is:

A waistband construction comprising a stiffening strip of buckram, body garment fabric secured to the stiffening strip along the upper marginal edge thereof on the inside face of the buckram, said garment fabric depending from the upper edge of said stiffening strip and over the outside face thereof and below, lining fabric overlying the inside face of said buckram strip and having folded-over upper and lower edges forming upper and lower folds, the upper folded over edge of the lining being stitched to said stiffening strip through the upper marginal edge of the body garment fabric along the upper edge of said stiiT- ening strip and. closely adjacent the upper fold, the lower folded over edge depending substantially below the lower edge of said stilfening strip, the marginal edge of the lower folded edge being secured by stitches to the lower edge portion of said strip said stitches being spaced from the lower fold, and thermo plastic heat-setting material in strip form having its lower edge portion interposed between said garment fabric and the lining fabric, and disposed with its upper edge portion adjacent said lower edge stitches, and with a substantial portion thereof below the lower edge of said stiffening strip, said heat-setting material being bonded over the major portion of its width between said garment fabric and said lining fabric, and being of a width substantially equal to the distance between the edge of said depending fold and said lower edge stitches.

ISADORE J. ELMAN.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 671,191 Hanauer Apr. 2, 1901 1,366,852 Von Rentsch Jan. 25, 1921 1,652,536 Le Roy Dec. 13, 1927 1,652,567 Foster Dec. 13, 1927 1,762,284 Thomas et a1 June 10, 1930 2,360,953 Lippmann Oct. 24, 1944 2,650,367 Stein Sept. 1, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 444,012 Great Britain Mar. 11, 1936