US20020155985A1 - Fragrance pro-accords and aldehyde and ketone fragrance libraries - Google Patents

Fragrance pro-accords and aldehyde and ketone fragrance libraries Download PDF

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US20020155985A1
US20020155985A1 US09/804,100 US80410001A US2002155985A1 US 20020155985 A1 US20020155985 A1 US 20020155985A1 US 80410001 A US80410001 A US 80410001A US 2002155985 A1 US2002155985 A1 US 2002155985A1
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substituted
unsubstituted
mixtures
alkyl
fragrance
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Gregory Miracle
Kenneth Price
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Priority to US09/804,100 priority Critical patent/US20020155985A1/en
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Priority to US10/417,071 priority patent/US7018978B2/en
Assigned to PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY, THE reassignment PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY, THE ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: MIRACLE, GREGORY SCOT, PRICE, KENNETH NATHAN
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07DHETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07D263/00Heterocyclic compounds containing 1,3-oxazole or hydrogenated 1,3-oxazole rings
    • C07D263/02Heterocyclic compounds containing 1,3-oxazole or hydrogenated 1,3-oxazole rings not condensed with other rings
    • C07D263/04Heterocyclic compounds containing 1,3-oxazole or hydrogenated 1,3-oxazole rings not condensed with other rings having no double bonds between ring members or between ring members and non-ring members
    • C07D263/06Heterocyclic compounds containing 1,3-oxazole or hydrogenated 1,3-oxazole rings not condensed with other rings having no double bonds between ring members or between ring members and non-ring members with hydrocarbon radicals, substituted by oxygen atoms, attached to ring carbon atoms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/57Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to novel fragrance pro-accords which release fragrance raw material aldehydes and ketones suitable for use in perfume and fine fragrance compositions thereby providing said compositions with enduring fragrance characteristics.
  • the present invention further relates to a fragrance delivery system which comprises the novel fragrance pro-accords of the present invention in combination with a) one or more pro-accords inter alia acetals, ketals, orthoesters, orthocarbonates, and b) one or more fragrance raw materials.
  • fragrance Aside from common “perfume vehicles” inter alia, fine perfumes, colognes, eau de toilettes, and after-shave lotions, a wide variety of personal care or personal hygiene items also deliver for aesthetic reasons fragrance notes, accords, or fragrance “characteristics”.
  • aldehydes and ketones form the most commonly delivered fragrance raw materials.
  • Alcohols and esters can be suitably released in a delayed manner from an orthoester pro-accord or pro-fragrance.
  • the controllable release of these fragrance raw materials thus provides the formulator with a means for delivering these fragrance ingredients, not only as an accord, but in a delayed-releasable manner over a period of time fragrance which is desirable to the fine fragrance and perfume user.
  • the primary means for delivering aldehydes and ketones in a time-releasable manner has typically been the acetal and ketal pro-fragrance.
  • the present invention meets the aforementioned needs in that it has been surprisingly discovered that aldehyde and ketone fragrance raw materials can be controllably released from novel heterocyclic pro-accords or pro-fragrances.
  • the novel pro-fragrances or pro-accords of the present invention are heterocycles, preferably oxazolidines, tertahydro- 1,3-oxazines, thiazolidines, or tetrahydro-1,3-thiazines, more preferably oxazolidines, or tertahydro-1,3-oxazines, most preferably oxazolidines.
  • pro-fragrances provide controllable release of fragrance raw materials and thereby enhance the longevity of perfumes and fragrances when applied to human skin.
  • the pro-accords or pro-fragrances of the present invention can be easily formulated into any type of personal care or personal hygiene articles inter alia fine fragrances, perfumes, deodorants, body lotions or creams, ointments, balms, salves, antiseptics, suntan lotions, or shampoos.
  • the pro-fragrances and/or pro-accords described herein comprise fragrance raw materials in a stable, releasable “pro-fragrance” form.
  • the pro-fragrances can be formulated into any product which is deliverable to human skin, directly or indirectly, provided the product pH, carriers and adjunct materials are compatible with the pro-fragrance chemical form. Once in contact with human skin, the heterocyclic pro-fragrance releases a fragrance raw material at a rate which provides extended fragrance benefits.
  • the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention can be a mixture of any number of pro-fragrances or pro-accords and can cover any fragrance “characteristic” or desired fragrance volatility.
  • the first aspect of the present invention relates to a pro-fragrance or pro-accord having the formula:
  • R 1 is:
  • R and R 1 can be taken together to form a substituted or unsubstituted ring having in the ring from 3 to 10 carbon atoms;
  • each R 2 , R 3 , and each R 4 and R 5 pair are independently:
  • R 7 is:
  • R 8 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof, wherein said substitution is not halogen;
  • R 9 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 3 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • the index x is from 1 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • R 6 is:
  • R 7 is:
  • R 8 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted linear alkyl, C 11 -C 15 unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted branched alkyl, C 11 -C 15 unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof, wherein said substitution is not halogen or thioalkyl;
  • R 9 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 3 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • the index x is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • any two R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , or R 6 units can be taken together to form:
  • the index n is an integer from 1 to 3.
  • a second aspect of the present invention relates to fragrance delivery systems which comprise a pro-fragrance or pro-accord having the formula:
  • pro-fragrance or pro-accord releases an aldehyde or a ketone fragrance raw material, wherein X is oxygen or sulfur; R is:
  • R 1 is:
  • R and R 1 can be taken together to form a substituted or unsubstituted ring having in the ring from 3 to 10 carbon atoms;
  • each R 2 , R 3 , R 6 and each R 4 and R 5 pair are independently:
  • R 7 is:
  • R 8 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • the index x is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • any two R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , or R 6 units can be taken together to form:
  • the index n is an integer from 1 to 3.
  • fragrance delivery systems of the present invention which comprise a heterocyclic pro-fragrance or pro-accord comprise:
  • the present invention further relates to a method for providing an sustained duration aesthetic perfume or fragrance benefit comprising the step of contacting a surface with a composition which comprises the fragrance delivery system of the present invention.
  • the present invention further relates to pro-fragrance libraries which are formed from an admixture of two or more fragrance raw materials and which use the same heterocyclic ring to provide a releasable admixture of fragrance ingredients suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to pro-fragrances and/or pro-accords which release an aldehyde or ketone fragrance raw material.
  • the present invention further relates to fragrance delivery systems which comprise one or more of the herein described pro-fragrances.
  • pro-fragrances and/or pro-accords of the present invention Key to the pro-fragrances and/or pro-accords of the present invention is the ability of the formulator to prepare a compound (pro-fragrance or pro-accord) which has a specific release rate of aldehyde or ketone.
  • the formulator may design pro-fragrances or pro-accords to release at any rate which the formulator finds useful to the consumer.
  • the formulator is able to make a side by side comparison of structurally dissimilar molecules and evaluate their relative fragrance raw material release patterns. In this way not only can the formulator determine with minimal experimentation whether a compound is suitable for use as a pro-fragrance, but also determine the release profile of the molecule. Therefore, a slight structural modification can result in a more finely tuned fragrance delivery system.
  • fragrance raw materials are herein defined as compounds having a molecular weight of at least 100 g/mol and which are useful in imparting an odor, fragrance, essence, or scent either alone or in combination with other “fragrance raw materials”.
  • fragrance delivery systems of the present invention comprise one or more of the herein described pro-fragrances or pro-accords.
  • the fragrance delivery system comprises:
  • the fragrance delivery system of the present invention is therefore an admixture of pro-fragrances/pro-accords and optionally other fragrance raw materials with provides a sustained and enhanced delivery of fragrance or other aesthetic perfume benefit to the user.
  • the fragrance delivery system of the present invention can be used in any composition which intends to provide an aesthetic benefit inter alia fine fragrances, perfumes, personal care products, deodorants, shampoos, laundry detergents, malodor masking agents.
  • Aesthetic perfume or fragrance raw material delivery systems typically comprise components which react with human olfactory sites resulting in what is known as a “fragrance”.
  • Typical molecules which comprise perfume fragrances are linear and cyclic alkenes (i.e., terpenes), primary, secondary and tertiary alcohols, nitrites, ethers, saturated and unsaturated aldehydes, esters, ketones, and mixtures thereof.
  • Each of these perfume fragrances can be classified according to its volatility into one of three categories; “top note”, “middle note”, and “base note”.
  • top note fragrances are defined as “fragrances having a high vapor pressure, and when applied to a paper sachet, vaporization takes place within 2 hours, and no scent remains; essentially, the initial impression of the perfume formulation is provided by top notes”.
  • middle note fragrances are defined as “fragrances having a medium vapor pressure, and when applied to a paper sachet, the scent remains from about 2 to about 6 hours; essentially, middle notes provide the skeleton of the perfume formulation”.
  • base note fragrances are defined as “fragrances having a low vapor pressure and high retentivity, and when applied to a paper sachet, the scent remains for more than about 6 hours; essentially, base notes provide the characteristic of the perfume formulation.
  • top note “middle note”, and “base note” are well recognized by those skilled in the art of fragrance-containing compositions.
  • reference to a specific fragrance raw material as a “top note” within the present invention does mean that others skilled in the art of fragrance-containing compositions may not categorize the same ingredient as a “middle note”.
  • fragment raw materials comprise inter alia alcohols, ketones, aldehydes, esters, ethers, nitrites, and alkenes such as terpenes.
  • a listing of common “fragrance raw materials” can be found in various reference sources, for example, “Perfume and Flavor Chemicals”, Vols. I and II; Steffen Arctander Allured Pub. Co. (1994) and “Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology”; Muiller, P. M. and Lamparsky, D., Blackie Academic and Professional (1994) both incorporated herein by reference.
  • the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention comprise one or more heterocyclic aldehyde-releasing and/or ketone-releasing pro-fragrances, preferably oxazolidines, tertahydro-1,3-oxazines, thiazolidines, or tetrahydro-1,3-thiazines, more preferably oxazolidines, or tertahydro-1,3-oxazines, most preferably oxazolidines.
  • pro-fragrances or pro-accords which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems described herein have the formula:
  • R units are defined herein as:
  • C 6 -C 22 preferably C 6 -C 18 , more preferably C 6 -Cl 5 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl; one or more examples of a fragrance raw material which comprises this unit includes citral, melonal, and neral;
  • R 1 is:
  • R and R 1 can be taken together to form a substituted or unsubstituted ring having in the ring from 3 to 10 carbon atoms; one or more examples of which are substituted cyclopentanone derivatives inter alia hedione and nectaryl; and each R 2 , R 3 , R 6 and each R 4 and R 5 pair are independently:
  • R 7 is:
  • each R 9 is independently hydrogen; C 1 -C 15 , preferably C 1 -C 10 , more preferably C 1 -C 4 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl; C 3 -C 15 , preferably C 3 -C 10 , more preferably C 3 -C 4 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl; or mixtures thereof;
  • the index is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 are each hydrogen;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 13 is methyl or hydrogen, more preferably hydrogen
  • R 14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • any two R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , or R 6 units can be taken together, and where feasible, combined to form:
  • the index n is an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 1 or 2, more preferably 1.
  • substituted is defined herein as “compatible moieties which replace a hydrogen atom”.
  • hydrogens which are substitutable are labeled as R′ units in the following examples.
  • Non-limiting examples of substituents which can replace hydrogen atoms are C 1 -C 22 linear or branched hydrocarbyl units inter alia alkyl, alkenyl; hydroxy, nitrilo, nitro, carboxyl (—CHO; —CO 2 H; —CO 2 R′′; —CONH 2 ; —CONHR′′; —CONR′′ 2 ; wherein R′′ is C 1 -C 12 linear or branched alkyl), amino, C 1 -C 12 mono- and dialkylamino, and mixtures thereof.
  • the formulator may wish to include other substituents not specifically mentioned herein. Not each hydrogen of a substituted unit, i.e., substituted linear alkyl, must be substituted; only one hydrogen must be substituted by another moiety for a unit to be “substituted” for the purposes of the present invention.
  • R may be a C 6 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl moiety.
  • the unit 3-propylheptyl, which comprises 10 carbon atoms may be considered a C 10 branched alkyl unit or a C 7 linear alkyl unit having a hydrogen atom substituted by a C 3 alkyl unit. Either definition applies equally well for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the present invention further relates to heterocyclic pro-fragrances, preferably oxazolidines and tetrahydro-1,3-oxazines, having the formula:
  • pro-fragrance or pro-accord releases an aldehyde or a ketone fragrance raw material, wherein X is oxygen or sulfur; R is:
  • R 1 is:
  • R and R 1 can be taken together to form a substituted or unsubstituted ring having in the ring from 3 to 10 carbon atoms;
  • each R 2 , R 3 , and each R 4 and R 5 pair are independently:
  • Rg is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof, wherein said substitution is not halogen;
  • R 9 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 3 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • the index x is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • R 6 is:
  • R 7 is:
  • R 8 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted linear alkyl, C 11 -C 15 unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted branched alkyl, C 11 -C 15 unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof, wherein said substitution is not halogen or thioalkyl;
  • R 9 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 3 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • the index x is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 14 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • any two R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , or R 6 units can be taken together to form:
  • the index n is an integer from 1 to 3.
  • pro-fragrance compounds of the present invention do not comprise a halogen nor does the R 6 unit comprise a thioalkyl moiety.
  • a non-limiting example of an aldehyde-releasing pro-fragrance suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems according to the present invention is 1,3-oxazine having the formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 6 are each hydrogen; n is equal to 2, therefore the pro-fragrance comprises two sets of R 4 and R 5 units, and wherein further the first pair of R 4 and R 5 units are taken together with the second pair of R 4 and R 5 units to form a fused aromatic ring having 6 carbon atoms.
  • R′ indicates substitutable hydrogens.
  • a further non-limiting example of an aldehyde-releasing pro-fragrance fragrance suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems according to the present invention is the oxazolidine having the formula:
  • R 1 and R 6 are each hydrogen; n is equal to 1, R 3 and R 5 are each hydrogen, and the R 2 unit is taken together with the R 4 unit to form a substituted cycloalkyl ring having 6 carbon atoms, wherein further R′ indicates substitutable hydrogens.
  • a non-limiting example of a ketone-releasing pro-fragrance fragrance suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems according to the present invention is the fused ring compound having the formula:
  • n is equal to 1
  • R 4 is equal to hydrogen
  • R 2 and R 3 are taken together to form a carbonyl unit
  • the R 5 unit is taken together with the R 6 unit to form a substituted cycloalkyl ring having 5 atoms, wherein further R′ indicates substitutable hydrogens.
  • An example of a prefered heterocyclic pro-fragrance according to the present invention is 2-(2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl)-5-carboxymethyl-N-isopropyl-1,3-oxazolidine having the formula:
  • One class of preferred pro-fragrances of the present invention are the tertiary oc-carbon 1,3-oxazolindines having the formula:
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , and R 5 is the same as defined herein above, R 15 , R 16 , and R 17 are each independently:
  • any two R 15 , R 16 , and R 17 units can be taken together to form a substituted or unsubstituted ring having from 3-10 carbon atoms;
  • R 15 , R 16 , or R 17 unit Preferably one R 15 , R 16 , or R 17 unit, more preferably two R 15 , R 16 , or R 17 unit is methyl.
  • a non-limiting example of an ⁇ -carbon tertiary 1,3-oxazolidine pro-fragrance has the formula:
  • pro-fragrance is formed from serine methyl ester and florhydral.
  • Non-limiting examples of aldehydes which can be suitably released by the pro-fragrances of the present invention include phenylacetaldehyde, p-methyl phenylacetaldehyde, p-isopropyl phenylacetaldehyde, methylnonyl acetaldehyde, phenylpropanal, 3-(4-t-butylphenyl)-2-methyl propanal (Lilial), 3-(4-t-butylphenyl)-propanal (Bourgeonal), 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-2-methylpropanal (Canthoxal), 3-(4-isopropylphenyl)-2-methylpropanal (Cymal), 3-(3,4-methylenedioxyphenyl)-2-methylpropanal (Helional), 3-(4-ethylpheny)-2,2-dimethylpropanal (Floralozone), phenylbutanal, 3-methyl-5-pheny
  • the present invention further relates to fragrance delivery systems which are suitable for use in delivering an enhanced duration aesthetic benefit.
  • the fragrance delivery systems are suitable for use and are compatible with any composition which may require a fragrance inter alia fine fragrances, perfumes, personal care products, deodorants, shampoos, laundry detergents, malodor masking agents.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.01%, preferably from about 0.05%, more preferably from about 0.1%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably to about 7%, more preferably to about 5%, most preferably to about 3% by weight, of a fragrance delivery system comprising:
  • pro-accord optionally at least 1% by weight (10 ppb of the composition which employs the fragrance delivery system), of one or more pro-accords formed from at least one fragrance raw material, wherein said pro-accord is selected from the group consisting of acetals, ketals, orthoesters, orthocarbonates, and mixtures thereof, each pro-accord releasing upon hydrolysis said fragrance raw material from which it is formed, said fragrance raw materials selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary, and tertiary alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, provided each pro-accord:
  • a) is formed from at least one fragrance raw material having a molecular weight greater than or equal to about 100 g/mol;
  • b) has a fragrance release half-life of greater than or equal to about 0.1 hours at pH 5.3 and less than or equal to about 12 hours at pH 2.5 when measured in NaH 2 PO 4 buffer;
  • a fragrance raw material component comprising:
  • compositions according to the present invention are fine fragrances or perfumes. These embodiments typically comprise only fragrance raw materials, pro-fragrances, pro-accords, carriers, and stabilizers.
  • the fine fragrance and perfume compositions which utilize the cyclic pro-fragrances of the present invention comprise:
  • the carriers, fixatives, or stabilizers will comprise the balance of the compositions.
  • Typical carriers are methanol, ethanol (preferred), iso-propanol, polyethylene glycol, as well as water in some instances, especially as a vehicle to deliver materials which provide reserve alkalinity to the fragrance delivery system.
  • Fixatives serve to lower the volatility of certain top and middle notes in order to extend their contact time on skin.
  • Adjunct ingredients include perfume raw material components which are essential oils and are therefore not a single chemical entity.
  • the adjunct ingredients may be mixtures of materials which serve a purpose in addition to providing a pleasurable odor (i.e., an astringent in a personal hygiene article).
  • a “pro-accord which comprises n fragrance raw materials but which releases n+l fragrance raw materials” is defined as “a compound which is prepared from one or more fragrance raw materials, said fragrance raw material being chemically transformed into a “releasable form” such that when said releasable form breaks down, the original fragrance raw material is released as well as at least one other fragrance raw material which was not a starting material used in forming the releasable form”.
  • the term “releasable form” is defined herein as a “pro-fragrance or pro-accord compound, which ever form is applicable”.
  • Non-limiting examples of “releasable forms” or pro-accords which satisfy the n+1 requirement are as follows.
  • the pro-accord tris(9-decenyl) orthoformate is prepared by treating 9-decenol (i.e., Rosalva), which is a fragrance raw material as defined herein, with a suitable amount of triethyl orthoformate, not a fragrance raw material as defined herein, in the presence of an acid catalyst optionally in the presence of a solvent.
  • Tris(9-decenyl) when exposed to suitable conditions e.g., exposure to the acid mantle of human skin
  • suitable conditions e.g., exposure to the acid mantle of human skin
  • 9-decenol and 9-decenyl formate both of which are fragrance raw materials. Therefore, one fragrance raw material is used to prepare a releasable form (pro-accord) of two fragrance raw materials.
  • the pro-accord 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-3-yl 3-(P-naphthyl)-3-oxo-propionate, which is a ⁇ -ketoester pro-accord is prepared by treating 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-3-ol (linalool), which is a fragrance raw material according to the present invention, with diketene under suitable conditions to form intermediate 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-3-yl 3-oxo-butyrate, which is subsequently treated with 2-naphthoyl chloride to yield the pro-accord.
  • linalool which is a fragrance raw material according to the present invention
  • an optional component of the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention are pro-fragrances or pro-accords which are not heterocyclic aldehyde and/or ketone releasing pro-fragrances.
  • the optional pro-accords or pro-fragrances are equally functional in either personal care compositions inter alia lotions, creams, deodorants or personal fragrance compositions inter alia fine fragrances, perfumes.
  • Preferred optional pro-accords and/or pro-fragrances include, but are not limited to, orthoesters, orthocarbonates, acetals, ketals, ortholactones, and , -ketoesters.
  • Non-limiting examples of optional orthoesters which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention include tris-geranyl orthoformate, tris(cis-3-hexen-1-yl) orthoformate, tris(phenylethyl) orthoformate, bis(citronellyl) ethyl orthoacetate, tris(citronellyl) orthoformate, tris(cis-6-nonenyl) orthoformate, tris(phenoxyethyl) orthoformate, tris(geranyl, neryl) orthoformate (70:30 geranyl:neryl), tris(9-decenyl) orthoformate, tris(3-methyl-5-phenylpentanyl) orthoformate, tris(6-methylheptan-2-yl) orthoformate, tris([4-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-buten-2-yl] orthoformate, tris
  • Non-limiting examples of optional orthocarbonates which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention include bis(ethyl) bis(geranyl) orthocarbonate, bis(ethyl) bis(phenylethyl) orthocarbonate, bis(ethyl) bis(cis-3-hexenyl) orthocarbonate, bis(ethyl) bis(citronellyl) orthocarbonate, bis(ethyl) bis(linalyl) orthocarbonate, bis(ethyl) bis(menthyl) orthocarbonate, bis(dodecyl) bis(geranyl) orthocarbonate, and bis(dodecyl) bis(phenylethyl) orthocarbonate.
  • Non-limiting examples of optional acetals which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention include bis(cis-3-hexenyl) vanillin, bis(geranyl) cinnamaldehyde acetal, bis(2-phenylethyl) anisaldehyde acetal, bis (citronellyl) cyclamen aldehyde acetal, and bis(citronellyl) citral acetal.
  • Non-limiting examples of optional ketals which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention include bis(linalyl) ⁇ -ionone ketal, bis(dihydromyrcenyl) ⁇ -damascone ketal, bis(linalyl) 6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone ketal, bis(dihydromyrcenyl) ⁇ -ionone ketal, and bis(citronellyl) cis-jasmone ketal.
  • Non-lirmiting examples of optional ⁇ -ketoesters which are suitable for use in the fragrance delivery systems of the present invention include 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-yl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-oxo-propionate, 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien-3-yl 3-( ⁇ -naphthyl)-3-oxo-propionate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-yl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-oxo-propionate, cis 3-hexen-1-yl 3-( ⁇ -naphthyl)-3-oxo-propionate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-yl 3-(nonanyl)-3-oxo-propionate, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-yl 3-oxo-butyrate, 3,7-dimethyl-1,6-octadien
  • One aspect of the present invention which is a key element in providing the formulator with a method for determining the manner in which a pro-fragrance according to the present invention releases its fragrance raw material, is the measurement of the pro-fragrance “Fragrance Release Half-Life, (FRHL).
  • the pro-fragrances useful in the personal care compositions of the present invention generally have a delayed release of final fragrance raw material in order to achieve the increased fragrance longevity benefits described herein.
  • the pro-fragrances generally also deliver the fragrance raw materials during a time period useful to the formulator, for example, within a time period desirable to the consumer.
  • the pro-accords generally have a FRHL of less than or equal to 12 hours when measured in NaH 2 PO 4 buffer at pH 2.5 and greater than or equal to 0.1 hour when measured in NaH 2 PO 4 buffer at pH 5.3.
  • the “Fragrance Release Half-life” is defined herein as follows.
  • fragrance raw material which is released may be released as a single component or a multiple fragrance raw material accord.
  • the phosphate buffered water is prepared by admixing 3.95 mL of 85% phosphoric acid (H 3 PO 4 ) and 24 g of sodium dihydrogen phosphate (NaH 2 PO 4 ) with one liter of water. The pH of this solution is approximately 2.5. Next 10 mL of the phosphate buffer is admixed with 90 rnL of dioxane and the pro-fragrance to be analyzed is added. The hydrolysis kinetics are then monitored by conventional HPLC at 30° C.
  • a fragrance delivery system having one or more pro-fragrances which deliver a rapid release of fragrance raw material in addition to the delayed onset of a fragrance.
  • the hydrolysis rate, and therefore the determination of t 1 ⁇ 2 must be measured in a buffer system which can accommodate this more rapid hydrolysis rate.
  • the pro-fragrances of the present invention are stable under pH conditions encountered in the formulation and storage of fine perfume, personal care and personal hygiene articles which have a pH of from about 7.1 to 11.5, and during solution-use of such products. Due to their high molecular weight and hydrophobicity, these pro-fragrances and/or pro-accords remain deposited upon skin even when exposed to water (i.e. when formulated into a sun screen). Because the pro-fragrances are subject to hydrolysis when the pH is reduced, they hydrolyze to release their component fragrance compounds when applied to skin or are exposed even to reduced pH such as present in air and humidity.
  • the reduction in pH should be at least 0.1, preferably at least about 0.5 units.
  • the pH is reduced by at least 0.5 units to a pH of 7.5 or less, more preferably 6.9 or less.
  • the solution in which the pro-accord is applied is alkaline.
  • the pro-fragrances of the present invention typically have an Odor Value greater than or equal to about 1, preferably greater than or equal to about 5, more preferably greater than or equal to about 10.
  • OV is the odor value of the fragrance raw material released upon the skin by the pro-accord.
  • the odor value is the concentration of the fragrance raw material, FRM, on the skin surface divided by the Odor Detection Threshold, ODT.
  • level of noticeability is often applied to and/or substituted for the term “odor value”.
  • odor detection threshold is defined as the level at which a fragrance raw material is perceptible to the average human.
  • the odor detection threshold (ODT) of the compositions of the present invention are preferably measured by carefully controlled gas chromatograph (GC) conditions as described hereinbelow.
  • the preferred fragrance raw materials of the present invention have an ODT of at least about 100 part per billion (ppb), more preferably 10 ppb, most preferably 1 ppb. Fragrance raw materials having an ODT greater than 10 parts per million (ppm) are typically avoided unless useful as an adjunct ingredient, for example, as an adjunct alcohol when adjusting the fragrance release half-life of an orthoester.
  • Determination of Odor Detection Thresholds is as follows.
  • a gas chromatograph is characterized to determine the exact volume of material injected by a syringe, the precise split ratio, and the hydrocarbon response using a hydrocarbon standard of known concentration and chain-length distribution.
  • the air flow rate in accurately measured and, assuming the duration of a human inhalation to last 0.02 minutes, the sampled volume is calculated. Since the precise concentration at the detector at any point in time is known, the mass per volume inhaled is known and hence the concentration of material.
  • solutions are delivered to the sniff port at the back-calculated concentration.
  • a panelist sniffs the GC effluent and identifies the retention time when odor is notice. The average over all panelists determines the threshold of noticeability or ODT. The necessary amount of analyte is injected onto the column to achieve a 10 ppb concentration at the detector. Typical gas chromatograph parameters for determining odor detection thresholds are listed below.
  • GC 5890 Series II with FID detector 7673 Autosampler
  • a pro-fragrance or pro-accord may comprise a fragrance release half-life which ensures delivery of a fragrance raw material during a period of time useful to the formulator, unless the fragrance raw materials which comprise said fragrance delivery system have ODT values large enough to be perceived by the user, the formulator will be compelled to use an inordinate amount of material to achieve a suitable fragrance level.
  • the pro-fragrances of the present invention have a Skin Performance Index (SPI) greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5.
  • SPI Skin Performance Index
  • t 1 ⁇ 2 is the fragrance release half-life measured at pH 5.3 in the above described buffer.
  • the t 1 ⁇ 2 of the SPI is measured at 5.3 and the value of the fragrance release half-life is preferably from 0.1 hours to 60 hours.
  • the [Odor Value]* is an estimation of the vapor pressure of the fragrance raw material using empirically determined KOVATS indices.
  • KOVATS index of a fragrance raw material is obtained from gas chromatographic analysis of the FRM and the experimental index is then used to determine the relative vapor pressure and hence the head space concentration of the fragrance raw material.
  • the formulator is able to fashion an aldehyde or ketone releasing cyclic pro-fragrance.
  • the release rate of either an aldehyde or ketone fragrance raw material can be adjusted.
  • Several different pro-fragrances which release the same fragrance raw material, but at differing rates or levels, can be admixed to further prolong or extend the period of fragrance raw material delivery.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for preparing a fragrance delivery system or a pro-fragrance component of a fragrance delivery system.
  • the process of the present invention comprises the steps of:
  • R 7 is:
  • R 8 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 1 -C 15 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, C 2 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkenyl, C 3 -C 22 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkenyl, or mixtures thereof;
  • R 9 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted linear alkyl, C 3 -C 6 substituted or unsubstituted branched alkyl, or mixtures thereof,
  • the index x is from 0 to 22;
  • each R 10 , R 11 , and R 12 is independently;
  • R 13 is:
  • R 10 and R 11 can be taken together to form a C 3 -C 6 spiroannulated ring, carbonyl unit, or mixtures thereof; y has the value from 0 to 10, z has the value from 1 to 50;
  • any two R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , or R 6 units can be taken together to form:
  • the index n is an integer from 1 to 3; with one or more fragrance raw materials;
  • the pro-fragrances are obtained from single fragrance raw materials, or in the case of pro-fragrance libraries, the pro-fragrances are formed from an admixture of fragrance raw materials.
  • a solution of triplal (2, 1.0 equiv), N-isopropyl-DL-serine methyl ester (1, 1.05 equiv) and 2,6-dichlorobenzoic acid (0.01 equiv) is refluxed 6 hours in toluene during which time water is removed by azeotropic distillation. The solution is cooled, washed with saturated sodium bicarbonate, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate, and filtered. The toluene is subsequently removed under reduced pressure to yield the desired product, 3.
  • a slurry of 1.0 equiv each of triplal (2), melonal (4), helional (5), pt-bucinal (7), cymal (6) and hedione (8) is stirred for 2 weeks with N-isopropyl-DL-serine methyl ester (1, 6.3 equiv) and anhydrous sodium sulfate (12.0 equiv) at room temperature in anhydrous absolute ethanol.
  • the sodium sulfate is removed by filtration to give the ethanolic solution of products. This solution is used without further purification. Alternatively, the ethanol may be removed under reduced pressure.

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