RU2412691C1 - Method for producing cosmetic pack - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine. ^ SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology and aesthetic medicine, and can be used for correction of cosmetic defects of aged and problem skin, as well as for body depilation. A method for producing a cosmetic pack provides fermentation of crushed pine nutshell in pasteurised purified curd whey by Propionibacterium Shermani pure growth ferment with soaked bentonitic clay added. The mixture is filtered, mixed with cedar oil, glycerin, and soaked bentonitic clay. Taken in a certain amount, under certain conditions. ^ EFFECT: method provides higher quality of a produced pack, reduced length of a fermentation process. ^ 4 tbl, 2 ex

Description

The alleged invention relates to the field of cosmetology and aesthetic medicine and can be used to correct cosmetic imperfections of age and problem skin, as well as to remove unwanted body hair.

A known method of producing cosmetics with the addition of an aqueous-alcoholic extract of medicinal plants as a biologically active additive to improve their quality (see RU No. 2153323, IPC 761 7/48, 2000).

The disadvantage of this method is that with an aqueous extract from plant materials biologically active substances (BAS) are not extracted enough. Moreover, an alcohol extract is a more rigid type of extraction, which can lead to the destruction of some biologically active substances, which reduces the quality of the finished product.

A known method of producing cosmetics with the addition of ground peach seeds, crushed shells of pine nuts, rowanberry extract and May leaves of birch, calendula tincture, water-alcohol extract of medicinal plants as a biologically active additive to improve their quality (see RU No. 2120273, MPK7 A61K 7/48, 2000).

The disadvantage of this method is that it uses crushed shells of pine nuts, and not an extract from raw materials containing biologically active substances (tannins or tannides). The crushed pine nutshell can be used as a scrub.

The closest in technical essence and the achieved result to the claimed invention is a method for producing a cosmetic mask, which provides for the fermentation of crushed shells of pine nuts in pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure cultures Lactobacillus bulgaricus. Then the resulting mixture is mixed with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, dried and ground (see RU No. 2347554 C1, A61K 8/00, A61K 8/97, 02/27/2009).

However, the known method is characterized by the duration of the fermentation process (3 days), which complicates the production, the finished mask contains a small amount of tannides, which reduces the effectiveness of the mask.

The technical result of the claimed invention is to improve the quality of the product due to the isolation and accumulation of tannides, as well as macro- and microelements, reducing the duration of the fermentation process.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method for producing a cosmetic mask, which involves fermenting crushed cedar nutshells in pasteurized clarified curd whey with sourdough cultures of pure microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing it with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, fermentation is carried out according to the invention with bentonite clay pure cultures of Propionibacterium shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Distinctive features of the proposed method are the new conditions for the fermentation process, namely the fermentation of pine nutshells by starter culture of pure Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay. This condition ensures the high quality and effectiveness of the mask.

Propionic acid bacteria can serve as producers of propionic acid, acetic acid and vitamin B ₁₂ . Cell replacement substances include polysaccharides, fats, polyphosphates and sulfur. Their accumulation occurs under such conditions when the starting compounds are in the nutrient medium, but the cell growth is inhibited. Spare substances are present in the cell in an osmotic inert form: they are insoluble in water. If the conditions change, become favorable for growth, then the reserve substances are again included in the metabolism.

When a heat-treated bentonite clay is introduced during the fermentation process, the process of reproduction of microorganism cells is accelerated compared to fermentation without the addition of bentonite clay, which reduces the duration of the fermentation process. This is due to the high adsorption ability of bentonite clay and its ability to ion exchange.

Analysis of the growth dynamics of the pure culture of Propionibacterium shermani showed that the maximum biomass increase is observed after 9-10 hours of cultivation, during the stationary phase of growth.

As a good adsorbent, bentonite clay can sorb microorganism cells, metabolic products, biologically active substances isolated from plant materials during fermentation. Bentonite clay, with the ability to catalyze biochemical reactions and incorporating a variety of trace elements, can accelerate metabolic processes.

Compared with the prototype, the invention is enriched with living cells of propionic acid bacteria and metabolites adsorbed by bentonite clay, which has a beneficial effect on the skin when applied.

For propionic acid bacteria, propionic acid fermentation reactions are of primary importance. The main products of fermentation are propionic, acetic acid and CO ₂ , minor products: dimethyl sulfide, acetaldehyde, propionic aldehyde, ethanol and propanol.

An important property of the genus is the formation of propionic acid as a result of propionic acid fermentation, dependent on coenzyme B _l2 .

Vitamin B ₁₂ combines a whole group of substances that are complex compounds of trivalent cobalt. Thiamine, biotin, pantothenic acid, riboflavin, B ₁₂ are involved in propionic acid fermentation.

Propionic acid bacteria synthesize significant amounts of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, the composition of which is a taxonomic trait. Some strains of P. Shermani also synthesize C ₁₂ , C ₂₁ , C ₂₂ , C ₂₃ fatty acids. The lipids of propionic acid bacteria, apparently, not only enter the structural elements of cells, but also play the role of protective components against the action of certain antibiotics.

Propionic acid bacteria in significant quantities synthesize polyphosphates.

Since in vivo microorganisms (as well as plants and animals) are constantly exposed to mutagens, they have formed endogenous and exogenous defense mechanisms: all living creatures form molecules capable of antimutagenesis. Antimutagenesis is understood to mean a decrease in the frequency of spontaneous and induced mutations. Antimutagens regulate the speed of spontaneous mutations, stabilize the mutation process. Antimutagens increase the activity of enzyme systems involved in the detoxification of substances entering the cell, affect the redox potential of the body. All these processes lead to a decrease in mutations.

It has been shown that skin and classical propionic acid bacteria release substances with antimutagenic activity into the medium. Therefore, propionic acid bacteria can become sources of new and valuable antimutagens.

Propionic acid bacteria serve as a rather good source of superoxide dismutase (SOD), and their value in this quality increases due to the possibility of complex processing of biomass.

After separation of the destroyed cells, the filtrate contains catalase, peroxidase and SOD and can be used as an antioxidant preparation.

They are primarily known as active producers of B vitamins. Currently, vitamin B _{12 is} produced only by fermentation. Vitamin B ₁₂ influences hematopoietic function and protein metabolism, takes part in the regulation of the optimal content of animal methionine, valine, threonine, leucine, isoleucine.

Thus, propionic acid bacteria are useful from microorganisms, but still remain a poorly studied group of microorganisms. They are capable of synthesizing practically important substances: most amino acids, a significant amount of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, polyphosphates of enzymes and vitamins.

When fermenting crushed pine nutshells in pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure P. Shermani cultures in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, the greatest yield of biomass and metabolites of their vital activity occurs. The bulk of the pine nutshells are carbohydrates, mainly fiber, which characterizes the shells of pine nuts as a source of carbohydrate-mineral complex and various organic substances.

The fermentation of crushed pine nutshells with starter culture of P. Shermani enriches the product with tannins or tannids, which have an astringent, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory effect, which helps to tighten the skin, forms a protective film on the mucous membranes and wound surfaces, compared to the prototype, with a new layer cells (see table 1).

Table 1 Plant material Tannids,% Pine Nut Shell Fermented with Ferment of Pure Cultures Propionibacterium Shermani 9.93 Pine nut shell fermented with sourdough of pure cultures Lactobacillus bulgaricus 0.01

Obtained by the claimed method, cosmetic masks were tested for antibacterial activity against St.aureus (epidermal) and E. coli by diffusion into agar (well method).

Samples were added to the wells in an amount of 0.5 g. Thermostatically controlled at 37 ° C for 24 hours. The enlightenment zones were visually determined. The results are presented in table 2 on the example of the use of a mask obtained by fermenting P.Shermani curd whey in the presence of heat treated bentonite clay. A comparison is given using fermented curd whey without the addition of bentonite clay (control).

table 2 Determination of the antibacterial activity of a cosmetic mask Way Zones of enlightenment, mm Lawn E.coli Lawn St.aureus Invention 3-4 5-6 The control - -

As can be seen from table 2, a pronounced antibacterial effect has a cosmetic mask obtained by the claimed method. A mask obtained without the addition of bentonite clay does not have an antibacterial effect in relation to any of the cultures.

Thus, the product obtained by the claimed method has increased antibacterial activity.

The inventive method is as follows.

The first step is to prepare the components of the mask: grinding and calcining bentonite clay at a temperature of 85-90 ° C for 10-15 minutes, pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping and sterilizing pine nutshells with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next stage is the fermentation of crushed pine nutshells in cottage cheese whey. In pasteurized clarified curd whey, crushed pine nutshell shell, heat-treated bentonite clay, fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in an amount of 4-5% are added. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature (30 ± 0.5 ° C) for 9-10 hours.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe: cedar oil, glycerin, surfactants and other components according to the recipe are added to the fermented whey mixture with bentonite clay. To give the appropriate consistency and stabilization of the mask, heat-treated bentonite clay is added.

The resulting composition is monitored by microbiological indicators (TMP, BGKP), by physico-chemical parameters (pH 20% of the composition, dry matter content in%, viscosity, sec).

Pack the product in plastic bags for single use of 10 g in sterile conditions. Shelf life 6 months at a temperature of 5 ° C to 25 ° C).

Examples of specific performance of the proposed method

Example 1

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes, pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping pine nutshells and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next stage: fermentation of the pine nut shell in pasteurized clarified curd whey with the starter culture of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani in an amount of 5% in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ° C for 9 hours.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) add 10% cedar oil to the fermented shell of pine nuts, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds;

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask is designed to moisturize, nourish, regenerate, improve metabolic processes, helps to increase skin firmness and elasticity, improves its color, smoothes wrinkles, and also removes unwanted body hair.

Cosmetic mask recommended for external use.

Example 2

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 90 ° C for 10 minutes, pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping pine nutshells and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next step in the preparation of the mask: fermentation of a pine nut shell in pasteurized clarified curd whey with a starter culture of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani in an amount of 4%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 28 ° C for 10 hours in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) add 10% cedar oil to the fermented shell of pine nuts, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds;

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask is designed to moisturize, nourish, regenerate, improve metabolic processes, helps to increase skin firmness and elasticity, improves its color, smoothes wrinkles, and also removes unwanted body hair.

Cosmetic mask recommended for external use.

The following are the organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics of the cosmetic mask obtained by the present method (see tables 3 and 4).

As can be seen from tables 3 and 4, developed according to the claimed method, cosmetic masks meet the necessary requirements for cosmetics by physico-chemical parameters, appearance, color and smell.

Table 3 Organoleptic characteristics of a cosmetic mask Mask name Appearance Color Smell Cosmetic fermented nourishing mask for aging skin and removing unwanted body hair Homogeneous sour cream-like mass Light beige color Pleasant sour-coniferous (tart)

Table 4 Physico-chemical characteristics of the cosmetic mask Mask name The amount of dry matter,% Hydrogen pH (20%) Viscosity, sec (at 25 ° С) Cosmetic fermented nourishing mask for aging skin and removing unwanted body hair 4.0-5.0 6.0-7.0 72

The mask is applied to the skin of the legs, hands and face for 15-20 minutes, then it is washed off with warm water.

Claims (1)

A method of obtaining a cosmetic mask, which provides for the fermentation of crushed cedar nutshells in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat treated with bentonite clay, characterized in that the crushed shells are fermented to (30 ± 0.5) ° С for 9-10 h using starter culture of pure Propionibacterium Shermani in the amount of 4-5% in the presence of heat-treated entonitovoy clay.