RU2639255C2 - Method for producing cosmetic masks - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention is a process for preparing cosmetic masks by means of fermenting ground plant raw material in pasteurized clarified cheese whey by means of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay; filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerine, heat-treated bentonite clay, the difference being that plant raw materials used include green tea in the amount equal to 3.5% of the mass of cheese whey.

EFFECT: improved quality of the product, improved skin tone and soothing, anti-inflammatory, softening, moisturizing, regenerating and antiseptic effects.

3 ex, 5 tbl

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and aesthetic medicine and can be used to increase skin tone, as a soothing, anti-inflammatory, emollient, moisturizing, regenerating and antiseptic agent.

A known method of producing cosmetic raw materials based on whey (RU 2277923, IPC A61K 36/00, 35/62, 31/125, 47/02, 47/30, 9/06, 01/10/2006 g), including (wt. %): biologically active component isolated from a medical leech or its parts (0.01-6.0), menthol (0.15-0.25), horse-chestnut fruit extract water-alcohol (8-10), camphor ( 0.15-0.30), ethoxydiglycol (3-5), polyethylene glycol 1500 (0.8-1.2), emulgin B2 (0.8-1.2), carbomer (0.6-0.8) , triethanolamine (0.6-0.8), methylparaben (0.25-0.35), bronopol (0.04-0.06), butyloxyanisole (0.06-0.08), water (up to 100) .

The disadvantage of this method is that when extracting biologically active components from horse chestnut fruits, alcohol is used, synthetic preparations are also included, which causes dry skin.

A known method of obtaining a cosmetic mask, providing for the fermentation of plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of Lactobacillus bulgaricus. Then the resulting mixture is mixed with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, dried and ground (see RU No. 2347554 C1, A61K 8/00, A61K 8/97, 02/27/2009).

However, the known method is characterized by the complexity of preparing plant materials, including grinding, sieving, cleaning and treating with alcohol, as well as the duration of the fermentation process (3 days), which complicates the production. The finished mask contains a small amount of tanides, which reduces the effectiveness of the mask.

Closest to the claimed invention is a method for producing a cosmetic mask, which involves the fermentation of crushed horse chestnut fruits in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, and heat-treated glycerin (see RU No. 2412692 C1, A61K 8/99, A61K 8/97, A61Q 19/00, 02/27/2011).

The disadvantage of this method, adopted as a prototype, is the isolation and accumulation of essential oils, flavonoids, choline, polysaccharides, coumarins and other chemical components in insufficient quantities.

The technical result of the invention is to improve the quality of the product by enriching the product with biologically active substances.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of obtaining a cosmetic mask, which involves the fermentation of crushed plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated bent clay, according to the invention as a plant raw material use green tea in an amount of 3-5% of the volume of zhnoy serum.

A distinctive feature of the proposed method is the use of plant materials as green tea.

The use of green tea leaves in the present method helps to preserve not only color, but also tannins, which have antioxidant properties, as well as a large number of essential oils, vitamins and minerals. Therefore, the use of green tea can prevent the appearance of free radicals in the human body and soften the effect of sunlight on the skin. The chemical composition of green tea is presented in table 1.

Components of green tea:

- catechins and tannins - flavonoids and strong polyphenols, soluble in water. These are powerful antioxidants characteristic of green tea and other weakly fermented types of teas. In black tea, the fermentation (oxidation) process significantly reduces the content of beneficial catechins.

- caffeine is a stimulant that acts on the nervous system. Caffeine is widely known for its arousing property. In moderation, it stimulates brain function and muscle activity, and also enhances endurance.

- Theanine is an amino acid found in tea that creates a calming effect on the brain and counteracts caffeine. L-theanine is a beneficial amino acid found only in tea plants and certain types of mushrooms. Theanine helps protect nerve cells in the brain and lengthens their life. This is due to an increase in the creation of alpha brain waves. He is considered a natural antidepressant and stress reliever. Japanese scientists also claim that the use of L-theanine strengthens the immune system.

- Gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) is an amino acid that is found in the central nervous system and is very important for its healthy work. It has a mild psychostimulating effect on a person, affects memory and mental abilities.

- Vitamin A (carotene). There are several types of carotene in tea leaves. Most prevalent is β-carotene, which has a strong antioxidant effect and destroys free radicals. β-carotene converts vitamin A when it is absorbed by the body.

- Vitamin B1 (thiamine). This vitamin is necessary for a good metabolism in the body and maintain muscle tone of the internal organs. Vitamin B1 in the body must be replenished daily, and especially during periods of stress and illness.

- Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) is necessary for the formation of red blood cells, antibody production, respiration and cell growth. This vitamin helps the tissues of the skin, hair, nails utilize oxygen more efficiently. It also plays an important role in the work of vision.

- Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid) is important for the release of energy from carbohydrates and fats, as well as for the metabolism of proteins, creating certain hormones and helping in the formation of red blood cells. It also improves blood cholesterol. This vitamin, along with vitamin C, is considered the most effective tool in the fight against various diseases and enhances the benefits of green tea.

- Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, the body needs it to protect against bacteria and viruses. It is necessary for the growth of collagen (the substance that connects the cells).

- Vitamin E (tocopherol) is called the "vitamin of youth and fertility," because it provides the work of sexual gonads in both women and men. This vitamin also acts as an antioxidant and destroys free radicals through fat. It is necessary for the normal functioning of the immune system.

- Vitamin F (fluorine) is a very important element for the bone and cellular structure of the body. It protects cells from damage by harmful substances and prevents various inflammations.

- Vitamin K plays an important role in the metabolism of bones and connective tissue, and is also necessary for blood coagulation. The presence of this vitamin helps ensure healthy kidney function.

- Vitamin P (flavonoids) protect our cells and greatly increase the usefulness of other valuable substances and vitamins for the body. It also includes quercetin, a vitamin P group, which relieves spasms.

- Vitamin U is used as the main component in medicines for the digestive system. It eliminates foreign substances in the body, and also helps to cope with allergic and skin diseases.

- Chlorophyll plays a vital role in photosynthesis, and thanks to it, solar energy is stored on the leaves of tea plants and enters our body with tea - it is very useful for people who receive little sunlight. This element plays an important role in the production of blood. Its molecular structure is similar to hemoglobin found in human red blood cells.

- Pectin is a natural dietary fiber needed to stabilize the metabolism in the body.

- Saponin is a component that causes the formation of bubbles in tea. With a mild irritating effect of saponins, the secretion of all glands in the body increases, which also has a beneficial effect on the bronchi - it dilutes sputum and facilitates their excretion.

- The ester of salicylic acid is used in medicine as the basis for many drugs, especially for the treatment of skin diseases. It is widely known for its antiseptic properties.

- Theophylline has a stimulating effect on the cardiac and central nervous systems, although less pronounced than caffeine. This element also explains the light stimulating effect of tea. It is especially important that it has a bronchodilating effect and normalizes respiratory function.

- Essential amino acids are not synthesized by the cells of our body, so their consumption with food is necessary for our body. They participate in many organic processes and are indispensable for health. Tea contains the most important amino acids for the body: leucine, phenylalanine, valine, threonine, etc.

- Linoleic acid. One of the reasons for gaining excess weight in the body is the lack of linoleic acid. This is one of the components due to which green tea so effectively helps in losing weight.

- Minerals make up a significant part of our body, activate enzyme systems and interact with hormones, vitamins and other metabolic regulators. Green tea contains 5-7% of minerals. Main types: potassium, calcium, zinc, phosphorus, manganese and copper. Zinc and copper are essential elements for the formation of antioxidants.

Analysis of the growth dynamics of propionic acid bacteria in the present method showed that the highest bacterial growth was observed in the experiment during fermentation with the addition of 3-5% green tea. The number of cells of propionic acid bacteria is 10 ⁸ cfu / cm ³ . With a decrease or increase in the amount of green tea introduced into the curd whey, a decrease in the number of propionic acid bacteria cells was observed.

Propionic acid bacteria can serve as producers of propionic acid, acetic acid and vitamin B ₁₂ . Cell replacement substances include polysaccharides, fats, polyphosphates and sulfur. Their accumulation occurs under such conditions when the starting compounds are in the nutrient medium, but the cell growth is inhibited. Spare substances are present in the cell in an osmotic inert form: they are not soluble in water. If the conditions change, become favorable for growth, then the reserve substances are again included in the metabolism.

Propionic acid bacteria are useful from microorganisms, but still remain a poorly studied group of microorganisms. They are capable of synthesizing practically important substances: most amino acids, a significant amount of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, polyphosphates of enzymes and vitamins.

When fermenting pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure P. Shermani cultures in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, the greatest yield of biomass and metabolites of their vital activity occurs.

In the process of fermentation of green tea by fermentation of pure cultures of P. Shermani, substances such as tannins, ascorbic acid and other compounds are extracted from raw materials and accumulate (see table 2).

Thus, the use in the claimed method of curd whey, initially not toxic and allergenic to the human body, rich in biologically active substances, trace elements, proteins, carbohydrates and vitamins, as a nutrient medium for the fermentation of ground green tea with ferment of pure cultures of P. Shermani, enriches the product with tannins substances, ascorbic acid and other biologically active substances that have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects on the skin and subcutaneous tissues.

Obtained by the claimed method, cosmetic masks were tested for antibacterial activity with respect to St. aureus (epidermal) and E. coli by agar diffusion (hole method).

Samples were added to the wells in an amount of 0.5 g. Thermostatically controlled at 37 ° C for 24 hours. The enlightenment zones were visually determined. The results are presented in table 3 on the example of the use of fermented curd whey with green tea in the presence of bentonite clay. A comparison is given when using fermented curd whey without adding green tea with bentonite clay (control).

As can be seen from table 2, the most pronounced antibacterial effect has a cosmetic mask obtained by the claimed method. A mask obtained without the addition of green tea has a lower antibacterial effect in relation to these crops.

Thus, the product obtained by the claimed method has increased antibacterial activity.

The inventive method is as follows.

The first step is to prepare the components of the mask: grinding and calcining bentonite clay at a temperature of 85-90 ° C for 10-15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey. Grinding green tea and sterilizing them with UV rays.

The next step is the fermentation of chopped green tea in clarified curd whey. Shredded green tea is added to pasteurized clarified curd whey in an amount of 3-5% of the volume of curd whey, heat-treated bentonite clay, fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in an amount of 5-6%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature (30 ± 0.5 ° C) for 9-10 hours.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe: cedar oil, glycerin, surfactants and other components according to the recipe are added to the fermented whey mixture with bentonite clay. To give the appropriate consistency and stabilization of the mask, pre-treated bentonite clay is added.

The resulting composition is monitored by microbiological parameters (TMP, BGKP), by physicochemical parameters (pH 20% of the composition, dry matter content in%, viscosity, sec.).

Pack the product in foil bags for single use of 10 g in sterile conditions. Shelf life 1 month at a temperature of 4 ° C to 7 ° C.

Examples of specific performance of the proposed method.

Example 1

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; grinding green tea and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes

The next stage: fermentation of green tea, taken in an amount of 3%, in pasteurized clarified curd whey using the fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 5%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ° C for 9 hours, in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) in fermented green tea in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay add cedar oil in an amount of 10%, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds.

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask as a result of penetration of the active components of tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids through the skin, strengthens the walls of venous vessels, improves blood microcirculation, accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone.

Example 2

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; grinding green tea and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes

The next step: fermentation of green tea, taken in an amount of 4%, in pasteurized clarified curd whey with the starter culture of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 4%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 28 ° C for 10 hours, in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) in fermented green tea in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay add cedar oil in an amount of 10%, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds.

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask as a result of the penetration of active components through the skin, nourishes and moisturizes the skin well, improves and strengthens its very structure. It also prevents the aging of the skin, enhancing its protective functions, and at the cellular level has a general positive effect.

Example 3

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 90 ° C for 10 min; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; grinding green tea and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes

The next step: fermentation of green tea, taken in an amount of 5%, in pasteurized clarified curd whey with ferment of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 5%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ° C for 9 hours, in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) in fermented green tea in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay add cedar oil in an amount of 10%, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds.

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask as a result of penetration of the active components of tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids through the skin, strengthens the walls of venous vessels, improves blood microcirculation, accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone.

Cosmetic mask recommended for external use.

Developed by the present method, cosmetic masks meet the necessary requirements for cosmetics according to physico-chemical parameters, appearance, color and smell (see tables. 4 and 5).

The mask is applied to the skin of the face and body for 20-30 minutes, then it is washed off with warm water.

Claims (1)

A method of obtaining a cosmetic mask, providing for the fermentation of crushed plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, characterized in that plant materials use green tea in an amount of 3-5% of the volume of curd whey.