RU2657774C2 - Method for producing cosmetic pack - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic industry and is a method for producing a cosmetic pack, providing for the fermentation of plant raw materials in a pasteurized clarified curd whey with a leaven of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated bentonite clay, while the fermentation is carried out by the leaven of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of thermally treated bentonite clay at a temperature of 30 ± 0.5 °C for 9–10 hours, with chamomile flowers, used as plant raw material, while in the process of fermentation essential oil, especially chamazulene, flavonoids, choline, polysaccharides, coumarin are extracted from officinal chamomile flowers.

EFFECT: invention provides an improvement in blood microcirculation, accelerates the restoration of the vascular wall tone, has a balanced physiological nutrition and moisturizing of skin cells, and also provides an increase in cleansing, clarifying and moisturizing effects.

1 cl, 2 ex, 4 tbl

Description

The method of obtaining a cosmetic mask relates to the field of cosmetology and aesthetic medicine and can be used to increase skin tone, as a soothing, anti-inflammatory, softening, moisturizing, whitening, regenerating and antiseptic agent. The mask has no contraindications.

In modern cosmetology, various artificially synthesized components are widely used, which can cause allergic actions in many patients. The use of natural-based masks in cosmetology significantly reduces their negative effect on the skin.

A known method of producing cosmetic raw materials based on whey (RU 2277923, IPC A61K 36/00, 35/62, 31/125, 47/02, 47/30, 9/06, 10.01. 2006), including in wt. %: biologically active component isolated from a medical leech or its parts (0.01-6.0), menthol (0.15-0.25), horse chestnut water-alcohol extract (8-10), camphor (0 , 15-0.30), ethoxydiglycol (3-5), polyethylene glycol 1500 (0.8-1.2), emulgin B2 (0.8-1.2), carbomer (0.6-0.8), triethanolamine (0.6-0.8), methylparaben (0.25-0.35), bronopol (0.04-0.06), butyloxyanisole (0.06-0.08), water (up to 100).

The disadvantage of this method is that when extracting biologically active components from horse chestnut fruits, alcohol is used, synthetic preparations are also included, which causes dry skin.

A known method of obtaining a cosmetic mask based on natural components (RU (11) 2184530 (13) C251) 7 A61K 7/48), comprising the following components: oat powder (oat flour) 45%, wheat bran 45%, wheat germ flakes 5% , camomile pharmaceutical 5%.

A disadvantage of the well-known cosmetic nourishing mask is that the mixture is prepared in the form of a powder and water or milk is added at a temperature (40-50 ° C), it takes time (from 30 minutes to 1 hour) to extract the active substances from the chamomile pharmacy it is poured with boiling water or boiled.

In addition, a significant drawback is the length of the cooking process. In the modern world, they use a finished product.

Closest to the claimed invention is a method for producing a cosmetic mask, which involves the fermentation of crushed horse chestnut fruits in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, filtering the mixture, mixing the resulting mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, and heat-treated glycerin (see RU No. 2412692 C1, A61K 8/99, A61K 8/97, A61Q 19/00, 02/27/2011).

The disadvantage of this method, adopted as a prototype, is the insufficient amount of essential oils, which reduces the effectiveness of the mask. It has small regenerating and moisturizing properties.

The task of the invention is to improve the quality of the cosmetic mask.

The technical result of the invention is to increase the cleansing, brightening and moisturizing effects of a cosmetic mask.

The problem is solved in that in a method for producing a cosmetic mask, which involves fermenting plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, chamomile flowers are used as plant materials pharmacy and fermentation is carried out by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay in those ix 9-10 hours.

The use of chamomile pharmacy flowers as plant materials ensures the high quality and effectiveness of the finished mask. During the fermentation, essential oil is extracted from chamomile flowers, especially chamazulene, flavonoids, choline, polysaccharides, coumarin and other chemical components.

Propionic acid bacteria can serve as producers of propionic acid, acetic acid and vitamin B ₁₂ . Cell replacement substances include polysaccharides, fats, polyphosphates and sulfur. Their accumulation occurs under such conditions when the starting compounds are in the nutrient medium, but the cell growth is inhibited. Spare substances are present in the cell in an osmotic inert form: they are insoluble in water. If the conditions change, become favorable for growth, then the reserve substances are again included in the metabolism.

Propionic acid bacteria synthesize significant amounts of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, the composition of which is a taxonomic trait. Some strains of P. Shermanii also synthesize C ₁₂ , C ₂₁ , C ₂₂ , C ₂₃ fatty acids. The lipids of propionic acid bacteria, apparently, not only enter the structural elements of cells, but also play the role of protective components against the action of certain antibiotics.

Propionic acid bacteria in significant quantities synthesize polyphosphates.

Propionic acid bacteria serve as a rather good source of superoxide dismutase (SOD), and their value in this quality increases due to the possibility of complex processing of biomass.

After separation of the destroyed cells, the filtrate contains catalase, peroxidase and SOD and can be used as an antioxidant preparation.

They are primarily known as active producers of B vitamins. Currently, vitamin B _{12 is} produced only by fermentation. Vitamin B ₁₂ acts on hematopoietic function and protein metabolism, takes part in the regulation of the optimal content of animal methionine, valine, threonine, leucine, isoleucine.

Thus, propionic acid bacteria are useful from microorganisms, but still remain a poorly studied group of microorganisms. They are capable of synthesizing practically important substances: most amino acids, a significant amount of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, polyphosphates of enzymes and vitamins.

Fermentation of chamomile flowers is carried out in the presence of bentonite clay.

Bentonite clay (GOST 28177-89), a finely porous substance, consisting mainly of montmorillonite minerals, contains a number of trace elements - sodium, potassium, calcium, chlorine, phosphorus, iron, iodine, zinc, copper, silicon, boron, chromium, selenium, molybdenum. It has a high binding ability, adsorption and catalytic activity. Natural material widely used in face masks as a drying and cleansing component. It has good adhesive properties and high hygroscopicity.

The biologically active components of plant materials, cottage cheese whey and metabolic products adsorbed on the surface of clay particles provide gentle cleansing, lightening, nourishing and moisturizing the skin. Therefore, the use of clay in the composition of cosmetic masks gives a quick cosmetic effect of cleansing and, in addition, natural clay enriches the surface layers of the skin with trace elements that are part of it in the form of impurities.

The amino acid molecules adsorbed on the surface of bentonite clay provide balanced physiological nutrition and hydration of skin cells. The abundance of trace elements and mineral salts also provides active skin hydration.

Phospholipids perform very important functions in the body: they stabilize membrane proteins, participate in cholesterol transport, and regulate intracellular and intercellular metabolism.

Acetic and propionic acid, being a metabolic product, actively affects the regeneration and renewal of skin cells.

When fermenting pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure P. Shermani cultures in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, the greatest yield of biomass and metabolites of their vital activity occurs.

In the process of fermentation of chamomile flowers with the pharmacy starter culture of pure P. Shermani cultures, substances such as tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids and other compounds are released from them and accumulate (see Table 1).

Thus, the use in the claimed method of curd whey, initially not toxic and allergenic to the human body, rich in biologically active substances, trace elements, proteins, carbohydrates and vitamins, as a nutrient medium for the fermentation of chopped chamomile flowers with pharmacy starter culture of pure P. Shermani cultures, enriches the product tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids with anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects on the skin and subcutaneous tissue.

Obtained by the claimed method, cosmetic masks were tested for antibacterial activity with respect to St. aureus (epidermal) and E. coli by agar diffusion (hole method).

Samples were added to the wells in an amount of 0.5 g. Thermostatically controlled at 37 ° C for 24 hours. The enlightenment zones were visually determined. The results are presented in table 2 on the example of the use of fermented curd whey in the presence of bentonite clay. A comparison is given when using fermented curd whey and a decoction of chamomile flowers. A decoction of chamomile flowers in a pharmacy showed minor areas of enlightenment (control).

As can be seen from table 2, a pronounced antibacterial effect has a cosmetic mask obtained by the claimed method. A mask, obtained on the basis of a decoction of chamomile flowers, showed minor areas of enlightenment.

Thus, the product obtained by the claimed method has increased antibacterial activity.

The inventive method is as follows.

The first step is the preparation of the components of the mask: grinding and calcining bentonite clay at a temperature of 85-90 ° C for 10-15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey. Shredding chamomile flowers and sterilizing them with UV rays.

The next stage is the fermentation of crushed chamomile flowers in a clarified curd whey. In pasteurized clarified curd whey, crushed chamomile flowers of a pharmacy, heat-treated bentonite clay, fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani, in the amount of 5-6% are added. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ± 0.5 ° C for 9-10 hours.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe: cedar oil, glycerin, surfactants and other components according to the recipe are added to the fermented whey mixture with bentonite clay. To give the appropriate consistency and stabilization of the mask, pre-treated bentonite clay is added.

The resulting composition is monitored by microbiological parameters (TMP, BGKP), by physicochemical parameters (pH 20% of the composition, dry matter content in%, viscosity, s).

To increase the shelf life, the intermediate can be dried by freeze drying. The dried material retains its structural integrity and biological activity; when wetted, the material restores its original properties.

Next, microbiological control of ready-made dry cosmetic masks (MAFAnM, TMP, Enterobacteriaceae, pathogenic staffillococci, Pseudomonas - aeruginosa), physical and chemical control (pH 20% of the mixture, dry matter content in%) is carried out. Pack the product in foil bags of 5 g. Shelf life of 6 months at a temperature of 22 ± 0.5 ° C.

Examples of specific performance of the proposed method

Example 1

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping chamomile flowers and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next step: fermentation of chamomile flowers in a pasteurized clarified curd whey with ferment of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 5%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ° C for 9 hours, in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) cedar oil in the amount of 10% is added to the fermented chamomile flowers of a pharmacy in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 s;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 s.

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 s.

The resulting cosmetic mask as a result of the penetration of the active components of tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids and other compounds through the skin improves blood microcirculation, accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone, provides balanced physiological nutrition and hydration of skin cells.

Example 2

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping chamomile flowers and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next stage: fermentation of chamomile flowers in a pasteurized clarified curd whey with ferment of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 4%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 28 ° C for 10 hours in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) cedar oil in the amount of 10% is added to the fermented chamomile flowers of a pharmacy in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 s;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 s.

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 s.

The resulting cosmetic mask as a result of penetration of the active components of tannins, ascorbic acid, flavonoids and others through the skin improves blood microcirculation, accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone, provides balanced physiological nutrition and hydration of skin cells.

Cosmetic mask recommended for external use.

Developed by the present method, cosmetic masks meet the necessary requirements for cosmetics by physico-chemical parameters, appearance, color and smell (see tables. 3 and 4).

The mask is applied to the skin of the face and body for 10-20 minutes, then it is washed off with warm water in a massaging motion.

Claims (11)

A method of obtaining a cosmetic mask, comprising fermentation of plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd serum starter culture of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, thermally treated with bentonite clay, while fermentation is carried out starter culture of pure Propionibacterium shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay at a temperature of 30 ± 0.5 ° C in for 9-10 hours, and flowers are used as plant materials chamomile pharmacy, while in the process of fermentation of chamomile flowers the pharmacy extracted essential oil, especially chamazulen, flavonoids, choline, polysaccharides, coumarin.