RU2412692C1 - Method for producing cosmetic pack - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetic industry, namely to development of a method for producing a cosmetic pack providing fermentation of crushed buckeye in pasteurised purified crud whey by Propionibacterium Shermani pure growth ferment with soaked bentonitic clay added, filtration of the mixture, introduction of cedar oil, glycerin, soaked bentonitic clay.

EFFECT: cosmetic pack produced by the presented method is used to strengthen vein walls, improved microcirculation, faster vascular wall tension recovery.

2 ex, 4 tbl

Description

The alleged invention relates to the field of cosmetology and aesthetic medicine and can be used to prevent conditions associated with circulatory disorders in the legs, varicose veins, as well as to restore the tone of the vascular wall, capillary wall on the face.

A known method of producing cosmetic raw materials based on whey (RU No. 2277923, IPC A61K 36/00, 35/62, 31/125, 47/02, 47/30, 9/06, 10.01. 2006), including in ( wt.%): biologically active component isolated from a medical leech or its parts (0.01-6.0), menthol (0.15-0.25), horse chestnut water-alcohol extract (8-10), camphor (0.15-0.30), ethoxydiglycol (3-5), polyethylene glycol 1500 (0.8-1.2), emulgin B2 (0.8-1.2), carbomer (0.6-0, 8), triethanolamine (0.6-0.8), methylparaben (0.25-0.35), bronopol (0.04-0.06), butyloxyanisole (0.06-0.08), water (up to one hundred).

The disadvantage of this method is that alcohol is used in the extraction of biologically active components from horse chestnut fruits, synthetic preparations are also included, which causes dry skin.

The closest in technical essence and the achieved result to the claimed invention is a method for producing a cosmetic mask, providing for the fermentation of plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure cultures of Lactobacillus bulgaricus. Then the resulting mixture is mixed with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, dried and ground (see RU No. 2347554 C1, A61K 8/00, A61K 8/97, 02/27/2009).

However, the known method is characterized by the duration of the fermentation process (3 days), which complicates the production, the finished mask contains a small amount of tannides, which reduces the effectiveness of the mask.

The technical result of the invention is to improve the quality of the product due to the isolation and accumulation of saponin and coumarin, as well as tannides, lipids and proteins from horse chestnut fruits, reducing the duration of the fermentation process.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of obtaining a cosmetic mask that provides for the fermentation of plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat-treated with bentonite clay, according to the invention as a vegetable raw material horse chestnut fruits are used and fermentation is carried out by fermentation of pure P.Shermani cultures in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Distinctive features of the proposed method are the new conditions for the fermentation process, namely the fermentation of horse chestnut fruit by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay. This condition provides high quality and effectiveness of the finished mask.

Propionic acid bacteria can serve as producers of propionic acid, acetic acid and vitamin B ₁₂ . Cell replacement substances include polysaccharides, fats, polyphosphates and sulfur. Their accumulation occurs under such conditions when the starting compounds are in the nutrient medium, but the cell growth is inhibited. Spare substances are present in the cell in an osmotic inert form: they are insoluble in water. If the conditions change, become favorable for growth, then the reserve substances are again included in the metabolism.

During experimental studies, it was found that in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, the process of reproduction of microorganism cells is accelerated compared with fermentation without the addition of bentonite clay. Analysis of the growth dynamics of the pure culture of Propionibacterium shermani showed that the maximum biomass increase is observed after 9-10 hours of cultivation, during the stationary phase of growth. This is due to the high adsorption ability of bentonite clay and its ability to ion exchange.

As a good adsorbent, bentonite clay can sorb microorganism cells and metabolic products, but also, having the ability to catalyze biochemical reactions and incorporating various trace elements, it can accelerate metabolic processes.

Compared with the prototype, the claimed invention is enriched with living cells of P.Shermani microorganisms and metabolites adsorbed by bentonite clay, which has a beneficial effect on the skin when a finished mask is applied to it.

For propionic acid bacteria, propionic acid fermentation reactions are of primary importance. The main products of fermentation are propionic, acetic acid and CO ₂ , minor products: dimethyl sulfide, acetaldehyde, propionic aldehyde, ethanol and propanol.

An important property of the genus is the formation of propionic acid as a result of propionic acid fermentation, dependent on coenzyme B ₁₂ .

Propionic acid bacteria synthesize significant amounts of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, the composition of which is a taxonomic trait. Some P.Shermani strains also synthesize C ₁₂ , C ₂₁ , C ₂₂ , C ₂₃ fatty acids. The lipids of propionic acid bacteria, apparently, not only enter the structural elements of cells, but also play the role of protective components against the action of certain antibiotics.

Propionic acid bacteria in significant quantities synthesize polyphosphates.

Since in vivo microorganisms (as well as plants and animals) are constantly exposed to mutagens, they have formed endogenous and exogenous defense mechanisms: all living creatures form molecules capable of antimutagenesis. Antimutagenesis is understood to mean a decrease in the frequency of spontaneous and induced mutations. Antimutagens regulate the speed of spontaneous mutations, stabilize the mutation process. Antimutagens increase the activity of enzyme systems involved in the detoxification of substances entering the cell, affect the redox potential of the body. All these processes lead to a decrease in mutations.

It has been shown that skin and classical propionic acid bacteria release substances with antimutagenic activity into the medium. Therefore, propionic acid bacteria can become sources of new and valuable antimutagens.

Propionic acid bacteria serve as a rather good source of superoxide dismutase SOD, and their value in this quality increases due to the possibility of complex processing of biomass.

After separation of the destroyed cells, the filtrate contains catalase, peroxidase and SOD and can be used as an antioxidant preparation.

They are primarily known as active producers of B vitamins. Currently, vitamin B _{12 is} produced only by fermentation. Vitamin B ₁₂ influences hematopoietic function and protein metabolism, takes part in the regulation of the optimal content of animal methionine, valine, threonine, leucine, isoleucine.

Thus, propionic acid bacteria are useful from microorganisms, but still remain a poorly studied group of microorganisms. They are capable of synthesizing practically important substances: most amino acids, a significant amount of fatty acids, lipids and phospholipids, polyphosphates of enzymes and vitamins.

When fermenting pasteurized clarified curd whey with starter culture of pure P.Shermani cultures in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay, the greatest yield of biomass and metabolites of their vital activity occurs.

In the process of fermentation of horse chestnut fruits by fermentation of pure P.Shermani cultures, substances such as saponin and coumarin, as well as tannides, lipids and proteins, are extracted and accumulated, which improves the quality of the finished mask (see Table 1).

Table 1 The content of active substances in fermented curd whey with horse chestnut and heat-treated bentonite clay The name of the active substance Saponins,% Coumarins,% 1.44 0.82

Thus, the use in the claimed method of curd whey, initially not toxic and allergenic to the human body, rich in biologically active substances, microelements, proteins, carbohydrates and vitamins, as a nutrient medium for the fermentation of crushed horse chestnut fruits with ferment of pure P.Shermani cultures, enriches the product saponins, coumarins, which have antithrombotic and analeptic effects on the skin and subcutaneous tissues, enhance the anti-inflammatory effect, and promote deep penetration. novena active components through the skin strengthens the walls of the veins, improves blood circulation, accelerates recovery vascular tone.

Obtained by the claimed method, cosmetic masks were tested for antibacterial activity against St.aureus (epidermal) and E. coli by agar diffusion (hole method).

Samples were added to the wells in an amount of 0.5 g. Thermostatically controlled at 37 ° C for 24 hours. The enlightenment zones were visually determined. The results are presented in table 2 on the example of the use of fermented curd whey in the presence of bentonite clay. A comparison is given using fermented curd whey without the addition of bentonite clay (control).

table 2 Determination of the antibacterial activity of a cosmetic mask Way Zones of enlightenment, mm Lawn E.coli Lawn St.aureus Invention 3-4 5-6 The control - -

As can be seen from table 2, a pronounced antibacterial effect has a cosmetic mask obtained by the claimed method. A mask obtained without the addition of bentonite clay does not have an antibacterial effect in relation to any of the cultures.

Thus, the product obtained by the claimed method has increased antibacterial activity.

The inventive method is as follows.

The first step is the preparation of the components of the mask: grinding and calcining bentonite clay at a temperature of 85-90 ° C for 10-15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey. Grinding horse chestnut fruits and sterilizing them with UV rays.

The next step is the fermentation of crushed horse chestnut fruits in clarified curd whey. In pasteurized clarified curd whey, crushed horse chestnut fruits, heat-treated bentonite clay, fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium Shermani in the amount of 5-6% are added. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature (30 ± 0.5 ° C) for 9-10 hours.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe: cedar oil, glycerin, surfactants and other components according to the recipe are added to the fermented whey mixture with bentonite clay. To give the appropriate consistency and stabilization of the mask, pre-treated bentonite clay is added.

The resulting composition is monitored by microbiological parameters (TMP, BGKP), by physico-chemical parameters (pH 20% of the composition, dry matter content in%, viscosity, sec).

Pack the product in plastic bags for single use of 10 g in sterile conditions. Shelf life 6 months at a temperature of 5 ° C to 25 ° C).

Examples of specific performance of the proposed method

Example 1

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping horse chestnut fruits and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next stage: fermentation of horse chestnut fruits in pasteurized clarified curd whey with ferment of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 5%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ° C for 9 hours in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) cedar oil in the amount of 10% is added to the fermented horse chestnut fruits in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds;

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask, as a result of the penetration of the active components of saponin and coumarin through the skin, strengthens the walls of venous vessels, improves blood microcirculation, and accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone.

Example 2

Preparation of mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85 ° C for 15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey; chopping horse chestnut fruits and sterilizing them with UV rays for 30 minutes.

The next step: fermentation of horse chestnut fruits in pasteurized clarified curd whey with ferment of pure cultures Propionibacterium Shermani, taken in an amount of 4%. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 28 ° C for 10 hours in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.

Preparation of a cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe:

a) cedar oil in the amount of 10% is added to the fermented horse chestnut fruits in curd whey with heat-treated bentonite clay, beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 30 seconds;

b) glycerin is added to the well-beaten mass according to the recipe and beat for 30 seconds;

c) heat-treated bentonite clay is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1: 0.5 and beat in a mixer (ω = 1000 rpm) for 60 sec.

The resulting cosmetic mask, as a result of the penetration of the active components of saponin and coumarin through the skin, strengthens the walls of venous vessels, improves blood microcirculation, and accelerates the restoration of vascular wall tone.

Cosmetic mask recommended for external use.

Developed by the present method, cosmetic masks meet the necessary requirements for cosmetics by physico-chemical parameters, appearance, color and smell (see tables 3 and 4).

Table 3 Organoleptic characteristics of a cosmetic mask Mask name Appearance Color Smell Cosmetic fermented antithrombotic and analeptic mask Homogeneous sour cream-like mass Light beige color Pleasant sour-coniferous (tart)

Table 4 Physico-chemical characteristics of the cosmetic mask Mask name The amount of dry matter,% Hydrogen pH (20%) Viscosity, sec (at 25 ° C) Cosmetic fermented antithrombotic and analeptic mask 4.0-5.0 6.0-7.0 72

The mask is applied to the skin of the legs and face for 15-20 minutes, then it is washed off with warm water.

Claims (1)

A method for producing a cosmetic mask, which provides for the fermentation of plant materials in pasteurized clarified curd whey by fermentation of pure cultures of microorganisms, filtering the mixture, mixing the mixture with cedar oil, glycerin, heat treated with bentonite clay, characterized in that crushed horse chestnut and fermentation is carried out by fermentation of pure cultures of Propionibacterium shermani in the presence of heat-treated bentonite clay.