KR20020001913A - Skin care composition containing stabilized Castanea crenata extract and Terminalia chebula extract with niosome - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing an inner skin extract of Castanea crenata and a Terminalia chebula extract stabilized in niosome to maximize physiological activity and stabilize cosmetics is provided, which has excellent skin elasticity improving effects. CONSTITUTION: The cosmetic composition contains 0.001 to 3.0 parts by weight of an inner skin extract of Castanea crenata, 0.001 to 3.0 parts by weight of a Terminalia chebula extract, 10 to 50 parts by weight of a nonionic surfactant, 1 to 50 parts by weight of a co-emulsifier and 30 to 80 parts by weight of a mixture of cholesterol, cholesteryl ester and soy sterol stabilized respectively in niosome, based on the total weight of the niosome.

Description

Skin care composition containing stabilized Castanea crenata extract and Terminalia chebula extract with niosome}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing niosome stabilized yulpi, Gaza extract.

The ultimate goal of cosmetics is to maintain beautiful and healthy skin. In particular, due to skin aging, the skin causes various changes externally, which is the most negative factor in maintaining beautiful and healthy skin. The causes of skin aging include dry skin, oxidation of biological components due to excessive exposure of ultraviolet rays, and deterioration of physiological function of skin with age. In particular, damage caused by free radicals caused by reduction of oxygen, ultraviolet irradiation, phagocytosis, and the like during the respiration of living organisms is widely recognized in the human body and is recognized as one of the aging mechanisms. Age (1984) 7, 111-131, Harman. Skin is divided into epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous fat layer, and aging of skin is closely related to the change of dermis layer. Prior to aging, skin cells are physiologically active, and fibroblasts in dermis complete collagen synthesis and metabolism, which are important for skin elasticity and wrinkle suppression. It is also active in synthesizing Glucosaminoglycans (GAGS), a glycoprotein that contains hyaluronic acid, which is essential to the skin, giving skin elasticity, softness, flexibility and moisturizing properties. In epidermis, the proliferation of basal layer cells is active, and the production of binding proteins such as laminin, integrin, and desmosome, which enhance the binding between skin cells, is balanced. Maintains healthy skin by strengthening skin tissue. However, the skin of modern man is exposed to various harmful environment and stresses and suffers various damages. As he ages, the skin's physiological activity decreases and the damaged skin's recovery rate slows down, the skin loses elasticity, dryness, wrinkle formation, and dull skin Various skin aging symptoms such as. Therefore, the biggest goal of cosmetics is to improve the aging symptoms, various cosmetics have been developed for this.

In recent years, the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics has been increasing rapidly, and various skin physiological activities on natural plant ingredients have been searched for, and materials having excellent skin beauty effects have been developed. However, most herbal ingredients are not only unstable by themselves, but also have a big problem in the stability of the cosmetic when applied to the cosmetic.

In order to solve this problem, as well as in the pharmaceutical field, cosmetics, foods, etc. are currently using liposomes that can be stably delivered without destroying the physiologically active ingredients, and can contain both lipophilic and water-soluble bioactive ingredients. Liposomes are largely divided into multi-membrane liposomes (MLV: Multilamella vesicle) and monolithic liposomes (ULV: Unilamella vesicle). MLV is 400 ~ 3500nm in size and can contain 5 ~ 15 in liposomes, LUV is 100 ~ 1,000nm and can contain 36 ~ 65 in liposomes and SLV is 20 ~ in size It is 50 nm and the amount which can be contained in a liposome is 0.5-1.0.

The amount of bioactive substances that can be contained is the most LUV but unstable, SLV is the most stable, but the amount that can contain less. In addition, the structure of human skin

Because of its structure, MLV has affinity with the skin, but is too large to penetrate the skin.

In contrast, niosome is a special kind of liposomes currently used in drug delivery systems by stabilizing physiologically active ingredients in the pharmaceutical field. It can contain excess water soluble components and is stable. In addition, liposomes are formed by phospholipids, while niosomes are ceramide, cerebromide, and sphingolipid.

(Sphingolipid) derivatives are used to form vesicles within the vesicles

Contains bioactive ingredients.

The present invention is to develop a cosmetic to improve the wrinkles and skin elasticity according to the skin aging phenomenon of herbal medicines and plants that are widely used as a skin beauty agent in folk medicine and herbal medicine for native plants in Korea.

Therefore, the present inventors found that yulpi and gaza of the present invention have excellent physiological activity in preventing skin aging and whitening effect, and by maximizing the skin physiological activity effect of yulpi and gaza by stabilizing it in niosome as well as cosmetics The present invention was completed by solving the stability at.

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing niosome stabilized yulpi, gaza extract.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing niosome stabilized yulpi, gaza extract.

Yulpi extract and Gaza extract, which are the active ingredients of the present invention, are contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, and preferably 0.5 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of niosomes.

Yulpi extract in the composition of the present invention is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 3.0 by weight relative to the total weight of niosomes, preferably 0.01 to 1.0.

Yulpi is a dark brown bark that covers the fruit of the chestnut tree (Castanea crenata), which belongs to the chestnut family. It is separated from the chestnut fruit and dried in the sun. Yulpi is widely used as a beauty treatment in herbal medicine, and Dongbobom has been reported to be effective in preventing wrinkles and wrinkles when applied to the face by applying it to honey. (Yongbobom 外形 篇 面面 湯 液 篇 '果 部') Yulpi extract is obtained by washing and drying Yulpi in organic solvent, aging it at low temperature, filtration and drying.

In the composition of the present invention, the Gaza extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 3.0 weight based on the total weight of niosomes, preferably 0.01 to 1.0.

The terminalia chebula extract is an active ingredient extracted from dried fruit of the cabbage, a common plant, which has been shown to have strong antioxidant, free radical and antibacterial effects. The inventors of the present invention, while studying a substance with antioxidant and free radical scavenging activity in natural plants, found that the extract of Terminalia chebula has excellent antioxidant free radical scavenging activity and thus damage caused by oxidative stress of biological components. It was used to suppress.

The Gaza extract can be obtained by the same method as Yulpi extract, washed, dried, extracted from an organic solvent, aged, filtered and dried.

In the composition of the present invention, niosomes are used in combination with a stable nonionic surfactant, co-emulsifier, cholesterol, cholesteryl ester, and soy sterol. The high pressure emulsification was completed to complete the niosome (Nisome) having this closed double layer structure.

Nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene alkylether, polyoxyethylene alkylester, saccharose diester, etc. and the amount is 10 to 50 based on the total weight of niobium. It is contained in the amount of weight, Preferably it contains 30-40 weight. Diglycerol is used as the co-emulsifier and the amount is contained in an amount of 1 to 50 weights, preferably 2 to 10 weights based on the total weight of niosomes. Cholesterol, cholesteryl esters and soysterol are contained in an amount of 30 to 80 weights, preferably 50 to 70 weights, based on the total weight of niosomes, wherein cholesteryl nonano is used as cholesteryl esters. Cholesteryl nonanoate, Cholesteryl stearate, Cholesteryl isostearate, Cholesteryl oleate, Cholesteryl isostearyl carbonate ), Etc.

In addition to the nonionic surfactant, ceramide was combined with a glycerin skeleton for the role of lipids in the skin to have amphiphilic properties, thereby making them similar to natural lipid components. The ceramide used at this time is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of niosomes, preferably 2.0 to 6.0 by weight.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited in the formulation, for example, it has a formulation such as softening longevity, astringent longevity, nourishing longevity, eye cream, massage cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, powder, essence, pack Can be.

In addition, in the cosmetic composition of each formulation, other herbal ingredients, including the yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention as a herbal ingredient for skin improvement, can be appropriately selected by those skilled in the art without difficulty according to the formulation or purpose of use of the cosmetic. Can be.

Hereinafter, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to preparation examples and experimental examples, but the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

Preparation Example 1. Yul Extract

After washing with purified water and drying, 1kg of powdered Yulpi powder was added to 5ℓ of 70ethanol aqueous solution, extracted for 5 days at 15 ~ 40 ℃, filtered through 300 mesh filter cloth, and left at 4 ~ 15 ℃ for 10 days to mature at low temperature. The filter was filtered using Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 89.5 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 8.9 ± 0.5.

Preparation Example 2 Gaza Extract

The dried fruit of Gaza, a four-colored plant, was washed with clean water, dried and pulverized. Powdered 1 kg of powdered Gaza was poured into 5 liters of 70 ethanol aqueous solution, extracted at 15-40 ° C. for 5 days, and filtered through 300 mesh filter cloth. The mixture was left at 15 ° C. for 10 days to be cooled at low temperature, and then filtered through Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 45.3 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 4.5 ± 0.3.

Preparation Example 3

Niosomes are mixed in the A phase as a composition of Table 1 to 85 ℃ to uniformly mix, dissolve and cool to 45 ℃ to mix the B phase prepared in Preparation Examples 1 and 2, and then pressurized under 1000 bar pressure conditions Obtained by passing through a device (Microfludizer) three times.

Niosomes ingredient weight A Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether 10.0 Saccharoid diester 20.0 Polyoxyethylene alkyl ester 7.0 Diglycerol 5.0 cholesterol 25.0 Cholesteryl Nonanoate 10.0 Soysterol 15.0 Ceramide 7.0 B Yulpi Extract 0.5 Gaza Extract 0.5 system 100

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

A composition containing niosomes stabilized with the yulpi extract and the Gaza extract of the present invention (Example 1) and a composition containing no niosomes (Comparative Example 1) were prepared.

Composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 unit ingredient Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Niosome 10.0 - Yulpi Extract - 0.5 Gaza Extract - 0.5 A Cetostearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.5 1.5 Mikey-Crystalline 0.7 0.7 Squalane 5.0 5.0 Liquid paraffin 3.0 3.0 Trioctanoine 5.0 5.0 Polysorbate 60 1.2 1.2 Sorbitan stearate 0.5 0.5 Micromethicone 3.0 3.0 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 0.2 BHT 0.05 0.05 B Purified water Remaining amount Quantity Concentrated glycerin 4.0 4.0 1,3-butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 Xanthan Gum 0.1 0.1 EDTA-2Na 0.05 0.05 Incense, preservative Quantity Quantity system 100 100

The niosomes in Table 2 were prepared in Preparation Example 3 and contain the extract of Yule and the extract of Gaza.

Experimental Example 1.

The cell proliferation effect of Yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the composition of the present invention was measured.

1) Experiment Method

Human normal fibroblasts were inoculated to 1 × 10 ⁴ cells in each well of a 96-well microplate with 96-well microkeys and incubated in DMEM medium for 24 hours. After culturing, the yeast extract and Gaza extracts prepared in Preparation Examples 2 and 3 were adjusted to a final concentration of 250 µg / ml.

After incubation for 24 hours after replacement with DMEM medium.

10 μl of MTT solution [3-4,5-Dimethyl-thiazole-2-yl) 2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide: 5 mg / ml] was added thereto, and left for 4 hours. 100 μl of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) solution was added to each well, followed by stirring for 20 minutes, and the absorbance was measured at 570 nm with a microplate reader. The experimental results are shown in Table 3.

The cell proliferation effect was calculated by the following formula.

2) Experiment result

Cell proliferation effect extract Cell proliferation effect () Yulpi Extract 28.7 ± 1.5 Gaza Extract 18.2 ± 1.1 Yul Extract (50) + Gaza Extract (50) 60.1 ± 3.3

* The above values are averages of 3 runs

The proliferation of fibroblasts is closely related to the increase in collagen, integrin and laminin biosynthesis which are important for skin wrinkle and skin elasticity enhancement. Of the present invention

Yulphy extract and Gaza extract are superior in cell proliferation of these fibroblasts.

It can be seen that it has a cell proliferation effect. However, when the Yulpi extract and the Gaza extract were treated with fibroblasts, respectively, the same amount of Yulpi extract and the Gaza extract had a much higher synergistic effect on cell proliferation. As a result, it was possible to increase the cell proliferation effect by simultaneously treating Yulpi extract and Gaza extract.

Experimental Example 2.

Integrin synthesizing effect of Yulpi extract of the present invention was measured.

1) Experiment Method

Human Normal fibroblasts were seeded in 96-well microplates (2 × 10 ⁴ cells / well) and incubated for 24 hours. After incubation the medium is replaced with DMEM without serum. At this time, 100 g / ml concentration of Yulpi extract was added together with the medium and incubated for 72 hours. After incubation, the integrin content of each well was analyzed by ELISA. The experimental results are shown in Table 4.

2) Experiment result

Integrin Synthesis Enhancement Effect density Enhancement effect Control 0 100 μg / μl 19.47 ± 2.8

Yulpi extract, the composition of the present invention, promotes the biosynthesis of integrin, a binding protein that promotes information transfer and cell activity between cells by enhancing the binding capacity between fibroblasts and cells, which are important for skin wrinkle improvement and skin elasticity. Able to know.

Experimental Example 3.

The skin elasticity-promoting effect of the cosmetic containing yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention stabilized niosomes were measured.

1) Experimental method

According to Table 1 above, 30 healthy women (mean age 29.5 years) were divided into two groups at a temperature of 24 to 26 ° C. and a humidity of 75 (average age 29.5 years). After the formulation was applied for 12 weeks (2 times / day) around the eyes, the skin elasticity was measured using a skin elasticity measuring instrument (Cutometer SEM 575, C + K Electronic Co., Germary). The test results are described in Table 2 below as values of ΔR8 (R8 (12 weeks))-R8 (0 weeks) of Cutometer SEM 575, where R8 values indicate the properties of skin vicoelasticity. 5 is shown.

2) Experiment result

Skin elasticity (12 weeks) Experimental product Skin elasticity effect Example 1 0.52 Comparative Example 1 0.29

As shown in the results of Table 5, the skin elasticity of Example 1 containing niobium stabilized Yul extract and Gaza extract was increased by 79.3 compared to Comparative Example 1 used directly in formulation without stabilizing Yul extract and Gaza extract . Therefore, it can be seen that Example 1 containing niobium stabilized yulpi extract and Gaza extract showed much more excellent effect on skin elasticity.

Experimental Example 4.

The skin penetration effect on the cosmetics containing niosomes in which the yulpi extract and the Gaza extract of the present invention were stabilized were measured.

1) Experiment Method

Dermal Equivalent (DE) -Human normal fibroblast 1 × 10 ⁵ cells / ml Cells in collagen gel structure similar to the fibrous tissue that forms the connective tissue of the human body 3 mg / ml: 5X DMEM: 2.2 sodium bicarbonate (Sodium bicardonate) and 0.05N sodium hydroxide containing 200mM Hepes buffer were inoculated in a medium mixed with 7: 2: 1 and incubated at 5CO ₂ , 37 ° C for 7 days. Derma Equivalent (DE) in which fibroblasts were cultured by putting it inside a plate separated by an inside and an outside by a membrane made of a 3 μm porous polycarbonate material.

The epidermal keratinocytes (Epidermal Keratinocyte) 1X10 ⁵ cells / ㎖ cells were inoculated on the surface of EGF and BPE containing K-SFM medium was incubated for 7 days. Afterwards, the medium inside the plate was discarded to allow the air to come into contact with the surface of the cultured cells. The medium was incubated for 2 weeks in a medium in which K-SFM containing 10FBS and DMEM without EGF were mixed in the same amount and cultured for 2 weeks. Artificial skin with dermis was obtained. The experimental example and the comparative example of the present invention were applied to the artificial skin tissue of the top layer, and after 4 hours of incubation, the epidermis and The amount of extract passed through the dermis was analyzed by HPLC. The test results are shown in Table 6 below.

2) Experiment result

Skin penetration effect Amount of extract in medium (µg / 1ml) Experimental Example Comparative example Yulpi Extract 615 53 Gaza Extract 824 73

Experimental results As shown in Table 6, it can be seen that the cosmetics containing the niobium stabilized yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention has a 10 times higher skin penetration effect than the comparative example using Yulpi extract and Gaza extract as it is. . This is because the average particle size of the niosomes of the present invention is very small at 100 nm, thereby facilitating skin penetration.

Diglycerol used as a co-emulsifier in the niosome of the present invention further facilitated skin penetration by reducing the size of the niosome particles. Therefore, in the above-described skin elasticity enhancing effect of Experimental Example 3, it can be seen that Example 1 of the present invention shows a better skin elasticity enhancing effect than the skin penetration effect of Comparative Example 1.

Experimental Example 5. Stability Test of Formulation

Stability test for cosmetics containing niosomes stabilized Yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention

1) Experiment Method

In order to test the stability of the cosmetics Example 1, Comparative Example 1 in an opaque pendulum container kept in a constant temperature maintained at 45 ℃ kept for 12 weeks and also opaque in a fully shaded refrigerator kept constant at 4 ℃ After storing for 12 weeks in a glass container, the degree of separation and discoloration were measured. The results are shown in Table 7 below. At this time, the degree of product separation and discoloration were evaluated by classifying into the following six grades.

Product discoloration evaluation criteria:

0: no change 1: very little separation (discoloration)

2: Slightly separated (discolored) 3: Slightly separated (discolored)

4: severely separated (discolored) 5: extremely severely separated (discolored)

Separation and discoloration Temperature Separation and discoloration Experimental Example Comparative example 45 ℃ 0 3.2 4 ℃ 0 0

As can be seen from Table 7, Example 1 was stable at 45 ℃ without discoloration or separation symptoms, Comparative Example 1 used directly in the formulation without stabilizing Yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention severe separation at 45 ℃ And discoloration occurs as well as the extract is unstable as well as Yulpi extract and Gaza extract can be seen that the formulation is unstable.

Hereinafter, based on the results of the above experimental examples, to present a cosmetic composition containing niosomes stabilized Yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention. However, the composition of the present invention is not intended to be limited to the following formulation examples.

Formulation Example 1 Softening Cosmetic (Skin Lotion)

As shown in the following table, the flexible cosmetic was prepared according to a conventional method.

Ingredient Parts by weight Niosome 1.0 1,3-butylenegulicol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Oleyl alcohol 0.1 Polysorbate 20 0.5 ethanol 15.0 Benzophenone-9 0.05 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 2. Nutrients (Milk Lotion)

Nutrients were prepared according to a conventional method as shown in the table below.

Ingredient Parts by weight Niosome 3.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine 1.2 Tocopheryl Acetate 3.0 Floating paraffin 5.0 Squalane 3.0 Macadamia Nut Oil 2.0 Polysorbate 60 1.5 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0 Carboxyvinyl Polymer 1.0 Bietchiti 0.01 IDT-2N 0.01 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 3. Nutrition Cream

Nutritious cream was prepared according to a conventional method as shown in the following table.

Ingredient Parts by weight Niosome 10.0 Cetostearyl alcohol 2.0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.5 Trioctanoine 5.0 Polysorbate 60 1.2 Sorbitan stearate 0.5 Squalane 5.0 Floating paraffin 3.0 Cyclomethicone 3.0 BH 0.05 Delta-tocopherol 0.2 Concentrated glycerin 4.0 1,3-butylene glycol 2.0 Santa sword 0.1 IDT-2N 0.05 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 4 Massage Cream

Massage cream was prepared according to a conventional method as shown in the table below.

Ingredient Parts by weight Niosome 1.0 Propylene glycol 6.0 glycerin 4.0 Triethanolamine 0.5 Beeswax 2.0 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 Polysorbate 60 3.0 Sorbitan sesquioleate 2.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 Liquid paraffin 30.0 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.5 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Formulation Example 5 Pack

Packs were prepared according to conventional methods as shown in the table below.

Ingredient Parts by weight Niosome 2.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 glycerin 4.0 Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0.3 ethanol 7.0 Fiji-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 Triethanolamine 0.3 Bietchiti 0.01 IDD-2 0.01 Incense, preservative a very small amount Purified water to 100

Yulpi extract and Gaza extract of the present invention increases the cell proliferation effect of fibroblasts, respectively, and shows an excellent effect on skin aging prevention and whitening effect, and shows a significantly higher synergistic effect on cell proliferation by simultaneously treating Yulpi extract and Gaza extract Can be. In addition, by completing a niosome (blocked double layer structure) (Niososome), the effective ingredient of the present invention in the blocked double layer structure can effectively stabilize Yulpi extract and Gaza extract, diglycerol used as co-emulsifier niosome particles By reducing the size of the skin penetration can be further facilitated.

Therefore, the composition of the present invention containing the niobium stable yulpi extract and Gaza extract can exhibit an excellent skin elasticity promoting effect by promoting the skin penetration effect and maximize the effect of the active ingredient

Claims (12)

Cosmetic composition containing niosome stabilized yulpi and gaza extract The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which comprises 0.1 to 10 weight of Yulpi extract and Gaza extract based on the total weight of niosomes. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the yulpi extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 3.0 weight of the total weight of niosomes. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the Gaza extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 3.0 weight of the total weight of niosomes. The mixture of claim 1, wherein the niosome comprises a mixture of 10-50 weight nonionic surfactant, 1-50 weight co-emulsifier, 30-80 weight cholesterol, cholesteryl ester and soysterol relative to the total weight of niosome. Cosmetic composition containing The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl esters, and saccharoids. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the co-emulsifier is diglycerol. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the cholesteryl ester is selected from cholesteryl nonanoate, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, and cholesteryl isostearyl carbonate. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, further comprising ceramide. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the ceramide is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10 weight based on the total weight of niosomes. The method of claim 5, wherein the niosomes are mixed and dissolved nonionic surfactant, co-emulsifier, cholesterol (Cholesterol), cholesteryl ester and Soy sterol A cosmetic composition characterized in that the cooling and completion, by mixing the high-pressure emulsification of Yulpi, Gaza extract The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the formulation is a softening cream, astringent makeup, nutrition cream, eye cream, nutrition cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, powder, essence, pack.