KR20010009028A - A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: Light cloth and its preparation method are provided, to improve the touch, the appearance and the drape property, and which is used as an artificial leather. CONSTITUTION: The light cloth comprises 50-85 wt% of a filament forming component constituting the surface texture and 15-50 wt% of an elution component constituting the rear surface texture. The surface texture of light cloth comprises ultrafine filaments whose single strand fineness is 0.07 denier; and the rear surface texture comprises highly compressible yarn whose single strand fineness is 1.5-15 denier. Preferably the ultrafine filaments and the highly compressible yarn are polyester. Preferably the fiber density of the surface texture is increased.

Description

A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a warp knit and a method for manufacturing the same, which are useful as artificial leather or women's clothing material because the tissue is very dense and soft while having excellent drape properties.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to warp knitted fabrics using a microfiber with a level of 0.05 denier or less after elution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the hardness, the knitting properties, and the feel are good, but the dissolution component is eluted at the post-processing stage for ultra-fine There is a problem that the tissue density of the loose becomes poor appearance of the fabric.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a warp knitted paper with good texture and knitting, which is excellent in touch and appearance and suitable for materials such as women's clothing.

The present invention is excellent in the touch, appearance, drape, and the like to provide a useful light knitted fabrics for women.

In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method capable of producing the warp knitted paper with good process passability, that is, without deterioration of the hardness and knitting properties.

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch, appearance and drape and a process for producing the same.

More specifically, in the present invention, the surface structure is composed of ultra-fine fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less, and the back surface is composed of high shrinkable yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 15 deniers, It relates to a warp knit excellent in touch, characterized in that 15 to 50% by weight.

In addition, the present invention in the manufacture of warp knitted paper by the process of elution, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment of the eluent, preheating treatment, eluting component, the surface texture of the composite fiber composed of the fiber-forming component and the eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less It is used as a yarn, and using a high shrinkable yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 15 denier as the yarn of the backing tissue, the yarn of the backing tissue is knitted to 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed letter. It relates to a method for producing a warp knit excellent in touch.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important for producing a polyester warp knitted fabric that is not only very soft and excellent in appearance but also excellent in process passability, such as natural suede. It was completed.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less as a yarn for surface tissue. When the composite fiber is removed from the elution component by alkali reduction after the knitting, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.07 denier or less. If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.07 denier, there is a disadvantage that the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed.

In order to improve the feel of the warp knitted fabric, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. The method of increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue is one method of reducing the polymer use rate of the eluting component in the composite fiber at the manufacturing stage of the yarn, but this is not only due to technical limitations in yarn manufacturing but also the polymer use ratio of the eluting component. There is a limit to increasing the density even if it decreases.

Therefore, the present invention is characterized by increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue by the shrinkage of these, using a highly shrinkable yarn as the yarn of the back surface tissue.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure.

Next, high shrinking yarn with single yarn fineness of 1.5 ~ 15 denier is used as the yarn for the backing tissue. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1.5 denier, the drape of the warp knitted paper is lowered, and if the single yarn fineness is more than 15 denier, the regular hardness, the knitting property, and the like become worse.

The highly shrinkable yarn used as the yarn of the back surface tissue is preferably a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 50% and a heat shrinkage stress of 0.2g / d or more.

If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 15%, the shrinkage rate is too small to increase the density of the superfine fibers, the surface tissue yarns, and thus the touch is degraded. If the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 50%, the density of the superfine fibers, the surface tissue yarns, is reduced. Can increase, but shrinkage becomes too high to control the processing width of the final fabric. In addition, if the heat shrinkage stress is less than 0.2g / d, even if the boiling shrinkage rate is high, there is a problem that does not overcome the stress between the tissue points does not occur enough shrinkage.

It is preferable to use a copolyester as said high shrink yarn. Bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic acid, etc. can be used as a copolymerization component. However, this invention does not specifically limit a copolymerization component.

When knitting, the yarn of the back surface tissue is 15 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. If it is out of the above range, the drape of the warp knit is lowered.

The warp knitted fabric thus prepared is preheated, caustic soda aqueous solution (reduced processing), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment in a conventional manner to produce a final product processed letter.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention thus prepared is densely composed of ultrafine fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less, which is excellent in touch and appearance.

In addition, the back surface has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 15%, a boiling shrinkage rate of 15 to 50%, and a high shrinkable yarn having a heat shrinkage stress of 0.2 g / d or more, thereby densifying the density of the surface tissue. As a result, the warp knitted fabric is excellent in touch, and since the yarn constituting the backing tissue is Taeseomdo, it is also excellent in drape.

In addition, the highly shrinkable yarn constituting the back structure of the warp knitted fabric is present in 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed letter is excellent in drape.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather because of excellent touch, appearance and drape.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

* Softness

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people are judged to be soft, and 5-7 people are judged to be soft, and 8 or more judges to be soft.

* Drape property

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape property, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape property. Separated by.

* Lighting effect

According to sensory tests by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

*Exterior

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, when 5 to 7 people judge that the appearance is good, the case where 8 or more judges that the appearance is poor is classified as bad.

Boiling Shrinkage

It measures according to JIS-L-1073 method.

* Heat shrinkage stress

KE-2 (manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.) was used for the thermal stress of the sample.The sample was placed on the clamp with a superload of 0.1g / denier and the temperature was raised from room temperature at a rate of 2.5 ° C / sec. Until the yarn was broken. Measure while making.

Example 1

Elution type with polyethylene terephthalate as a sea component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as a sea component, but having a superfineness of 0.05 denier formed after the sea component is eluted. Composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the multi-filament with the fineness of 5 denier, boiling shrinkage rate of 28%, and the heat shrinkage stress of 0.45g / denier is used as the yarn of the backside tissue, and is made of warp knit with a density of 23C / CM. do. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter.

Thus prepared warp knitted paper by raising → pre-set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersant] → buffing → final set (180 ℃) And the physical properties were evaluated and shown in Table 1.

Example 2

Elution type with polyethylene terephthalate as a sea component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as a sea component, but having a superfineness of 0.05 denier formed after the sea component is eluted. Composite fiber is used as the yarn for surface tissue, and it is made of warp knitted fabric with density 23C / CM using multifilament with 8 denier, 34% of boiling shrinkage and 0.51g / denier of heat shrinkage stress do. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 31% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter.

Thus prepared warp knitted paper by raising → pre-set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersant] → buffing → final set (180 ℃) And the physical properties were evaluated and shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1

Elution type with polyethylene terephthalate as a sea component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as a sea component, but having a superfineness of 0.05 denier formed after the sea component is eluted. Composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and it is made of warp knitted fabric with density 23C / CM, using multifilament with 1 denier, 40% boiling contraction and 0.15g / denier heat shrinkage stress do. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 48% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter.

Thus prepared warp knitted paper by raising → pre-set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersant] → buffing → final set (180 ℃) And the physical properties were evaluated and shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2

Elution type with polyethylene terephthalate as a solvent and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as a sea component, but having a superfineness of 0.2 denier formed after dissolution of the sea component. Composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the multi-filament with the fineness of 5 denier, boiling shrinkage rate of 28%, and the heat shrinkage stress of 0.45g / denier is used as the yarn of the backside tissue, and is made of warp knit with a density of 23C / CM. do. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter.

Thus prepared warp knitted paper by raising → pre-set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersant] → buffing → final set (180 ℃) And the physical properties were evaluated and shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 3

Elution type with polyethylene terephthalate as a sea component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as a sea component, but having a superfineness of 0.05 denier formed after the sea component is eluted. Composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and multifilament with 20 deniers of fineness, 38% boiling shrinkage and 0.55 g / denier of heat shrinkage is used as the yarn for the backing tissue, and is made of warp knit with a density of 23C / CM. do. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 42% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter.

Thus prepared warp knitted paper by raising → pre-set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersant] → buffing → final set (180 ℃) And the physical properties were evaluated and shown in Table 1.

<Table 1> Property evaluation results

division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effects Exterior Example 1 Great Great Great Great Example 2 Great Great Great Great Comparative Example 1 usually Bad Great usually Comparative Example 2 Bad Great usually usually Comparative Example 3 Bad Great Great usually

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very excellent in feel, appearance and drape, and is useful as a material for artificial leather or women's clothing. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention has a very good process passability such as hardness and knitting.

Claims (3)

The surface structure is composed of ultra-fine fibers with single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less, the back structure is 1.5-15 denier with single yarn fineness, and the high shrink yarn with boiling shrinkage rate of 15 to 50%. A light knit excellent in touch, characterized in that 15 to 50% by weight based on the total weight. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ultrafine fibers and the high shrink yarn are polyester. In the manufacture of warp knitted paper by the process of elongation, preheating, elution, dissolution, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment, composite fiber composed of fiber-forming component and elution component with single yarn fineness of 0.07 denier or less is used as a yarn for surface tissue. And using a highly shrinkable yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 15 denier as the yarn of the back surface tissue, and the yarn of the back surface tissue is 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed letter. Method for preparing warp knitted paper.