KR102603744B1 - A cosmetic composition for aromatherapy comprising of Yuza citron extract and aroma complex hydrosol and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
A cosmetic composition for aromatherapy comprising of Yuza citron extract and aroma complex hydrosol and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- KR102603744B1 KR102603744B1 KR1020200181570A KR20200181570A KR102603744B1 KR 102603744 B1 KR102603744 B1 KR 102603744B1 KR 1020200181570 A KR1020200181570 A KR 1020200181570A KR 20200181570 A KR20200181570 A KR 20200181570A KR 102603744 B1 KR102603744 B1 KR 102603744B1
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- Prior art keywords
- hydrosol
- citron
- complex
- extract
- weight
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Landscapes
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- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 유자 추출물, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 한방농축액을 포함하는 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조방법에 관한 것이다. 본 발명은 유자 추출물 및 아로마 복합 하이드로졸을 최적 비율로 배합함으로써 독특하면서도 향기로운 향취를 재현하면서 아로마테라피 효능을 나타낼 수 있다. 또한 본 발명은 한방농축액을 포함함으로써 피부보호 효과와 미백효과가 우수하고, 우수한 항염증 효과를 나타낼 수 있다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with aromatherapy effect containing citron extract, aroma complex hydrosol, and herbal medicine concentrate, and a method for producing the same. The present invention can exhibit aromatherapy efficacy while reproducing a unique and fragrant scent by mixing citron extract and aroma complex hydrosol in an optimal ratio. In addition, the present invention can exhibit excellent skin protection and whitening effects and excellent anti-inflammatory effects by including an herbal concentrate.
Description
본 발명은 유자 추출물, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 한방농축액을 포함하는 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with aromatherapy effect containing citron extract, aroma complex hydrosol, and herbal medicine concentrate, and a method for producing the same.
건강한 피부를 유지하기 위해 화장품과 같이 유효성분을 인체 외부에서 공급해야 하는데, 기초적인 관리를 위해 천연에서 추출 분리된 유효성분들의 첨가와 더불어 이들 천연소재들의 사용이 급증하고 있다. 특히 향장품 및 화장품의 제조 특성상 정유나, 허브 추출물이 주로 사용되므로, 천연 추출물은 향료산업에서 간과하기 어려운 큰 분야이다. 유럽, 특히 프랑스를 중심으로, 고품질의 풍부한 방향식물의 원료확보와 정유생산설비의 발달로 향장품 향으로 사용되는 정유를 대량생산하고 있다. 또한, 세계적으로 합성향료의 부작용으로 인한 문제점이 발생하면서 천연향료 개발에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다.To maintain healthy skin, active ingredients must be supplied from outside the body, such as in cosmetics. For basic care, the use of these natural materials is rapidly increasing along with the addition of active ingredients extracted and isolated from nature. In particular, due to the nature of the manufacturing of fragrances and cosmetics, essential oils and herbal extracts are mainly used, so natural extracts are a large area that is difficult to overlook in the fragrance industry. In Europe, especially France, mass production of essential oils used as fragrances is being achieved thanks to the availability of high-quality, abundant aromatic plants as raw materials and the development of essential oil production facilities. In addition, as problems caused by side effects of synthetic fragrances arise around the world, research on the development of natural fragrances is actively underway.
아로마테라피(aromatherapy)는 향기요법으로도 알려져 있다. 이는 식물의 향과 약효를 이용해서 몸과 마음의 균형을 회복시켜 인체의 항상성(homeostasis) 유지를 목표로 하는 자연요법(natural therapy)을 말한다. 이러한 순수 아로마테라피 외에도 화장품, 공기 청향제, 향수, 방향제 등을 이용하는 것도 있다. 그러나, 아로마의 농도가 너무 짙거나 오랜 시간 냄새를 맡을 경우 또는 의사의 처방 없이 정유를 먹을 경우에는 부작용을 초래하여 알레르기나 피부에 이상반응을 일으킬 수 있다. 특히, 향기와 약효가 있는 식물을 아로마테라피 치료에 이용하는데, 그 중에서도 식물에서 추출한 천연정유(essential oil)를 주로 사용한다. 천연정유를 이용한 아로마테라피는 스트레스를 완화해서 면역력을 개선시키고 몸의 치유력을 높이며, 세포재생을 돕는 등 다양한 효과를 가지고 있다. Aromatherapy is also known as scent therapy. This refers to natural therapy that aims to maintain homeostasis in the human body by restoring the balance of the body and mind using the scent and medicinal effects of plants. In addition to pure aromatherapy, there are also products that use cosmetics, air fresheners, perfumes, and air fresheners. However, if the concentration of the aroma is too strong, if you smell it for a long time, or if you consume essential oil without a doctor's prescription, it may cause side effects, causing allergies or adverse skin reactions. In particular, plants with scent and medicinal properties are used in aromatherapy treatment, and among them, natural essential oils extracted from plants are mainly used. Aromatherapy using natural essential oils has a variety of effects, including relieving stress, improving immunity, increasing the body's healing ability, and helping cell regeneration.
이에, 본 발명의 발명자들은 유자 추출물, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 한방농축액을 적당한 비율로 배합하여 독특하면서도 향기로운 향취를 재현하면서 아로마테라피 효능을 가지는 화장료 조성물을 개발하고자 연구한 결과 본 발명을 완성하였다.Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention studied to develop a cosmetic composition that has aromatherapy efficacy while reproducing a unique and fragrant scent by mixing citron extract, aroma complex hydrosol, and herbal medicine concentrate in an appropriate ratio, and completed the present invention.
본 발명이 해결하고자 하는 과제는 유자 추출물, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 한방농축액을 적당한 비율로 배합하여 피부보호 효과와 미백효과가 우수하고, 항염증 효과를 나타내는 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 세럼 제형의 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것이다.The problem to be solved by the present invention is to prepare a serum-type cosmetic composition that has excellent skin protection and whitening effects and an aromatherapy effect that exhibits anti-inflammatory effects by mixing citron extract, aroma complex hydrosol, and herbal medicine concentrate in an appropriate ratio. It is provided.
상기의 과제를 해결하기 위해, 본 발명은 유자 올레오레진, 유자 증류추출 오일 및 유자 하이드로졸을 포함하는 유자 추출물; 유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 포함하는 아로마 복합 하이드로졸; 및 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물을 포함하는 복합 한방농축액을 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물을 제공한다.In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides a citron extract containing citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol; Aromatic complex hydrosol containing citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender and rosemary hydrosol; and a complex herbal concentrate containing extracts of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice root, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate extract. It provides a cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect.
상기 조성물 총 중량에 대하여, 상기 유자 추출물은 0.01~20중량%, 상기 아로마 복합 하이드로졸은 60~80중량%, 상기 복합 한방농축액은 0.1~25중량%로 포함될 수 있다.Based on the total weight of the composition, the citron extract may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, the aroma complex hydrosol may be included in an amount of 60 to 80% by weight, and the complex herbal concentrate may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 25% by weight.
상기 조성물은 복합 정유를 더 포함할 수 있다.The composition may further include complex essential oils.
상기 복합 정유는 네롤리, 로즈제라늄, 자스민 및 로즈마리 정유를 포함할 수 있다.The complex essential oil may include essential oils of neroli, rose geranium, jasmine, and rosemary.
상기 조성물 총 중량에 대하여 상기 복합 정유는 0.01~0.2중량%로 포함될 수 있다.The complex essential oil may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
상기 조성물은 세럼 제형일 수 있다.The composition may be a serum formulation.
또한, 본 발명은 (a) 유자 올레오레진, 유자 증류추출 오일 및 유자 하이드로졸을 포함하는 유자 추출물을 제조하는 단계; (b) 유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 혼합하여 아로마 복합 하이드로졸을 제조하는 단계; (c) 당귀, 어성초, 감초, 국화, 녹차, 작약꽃, 천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물에 글리세린 및 부틸렌글리콜을 첨가하여 한방농축액을 제조하는 단계; 및 (d) 상기 유자추출물, 상기 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 상기 한방농축액을 혼합하는 단계를 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물의 제조방법을 제공한다.In addition, the present invention includes the steps of (a) preparing a citron extract containing citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol; (b) preparing an aroma complex hydrosol by mixing citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, and rosemary hydrosol; (c) preparing an herbal concentrate by adding glycerin and butylene glycol to extracts of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, chrysanthemum, green tea, peony flower, Astragalus, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate; and (d) mixing the citron extract, the aroma complex hydrosol, and the herbal concentrate. It provides a method for producing a cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect.
상기 (d) 단계 이후에 복합 정유를 포함하는 단계를 더 포함할 수 있다.After step (d), a step of including complex essential oil may be further included.
상기 조성물은 세럼 제형일 수 있다.The composition may be a serum formulation.
본 발명은 유자 추출물 및 아로마 복합 하이드로졸을 최적 비율로 배합함으로써 독특하면서도 향기로운 향취를 재현하면서 아로마테라피 효능을 나타낼 수 있다. 또한 본 발명은 한방농축액을 포함함으로써 피부보호 효과와 미백효과가 우수하고, 우수한 항염증 효과를 나타낼 수 있다.The present invention can exhibit aromatherapy efficacy while reproducing a unique and fragrant scent by mixing citron extract and aroma complex hydrosol in an optimal ratio. In addition, the present invention can exhibit excellent skin protection and whitening effects and excellent anti-inflammatory effects by including an herbal concentrate.
도 1은 유자 건조분말 (A), 유자 올레오레진 (B)을 나타낸 것이다.
도 2는 유자세럼 시제품을 나타낸 것이다.Figure 1 shows citron dried powder (A) and citron oleoresin (B).
Figure 2 shows a prototype of Yuja Serum.
본 발명은 유자 추출물, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 기능성 복합 한방농축액을 적당한 비율로 배합하여 독특하면서도 향기로운 향취를 재현하면서 아로마테라피 효능을 가지는 세럼 제형의 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a serum that has aromatherapy efficacy while reproducing a unique and fragrant scent by mixing citron extract, aroma complex hydrosol, and functional complex herbal concentrate in an appropriate ratio.
구체적으로, 본 발명은 유자 올레오레진, 유자 증류추출 오일 및 유자 하이드로졸을 포함하는 유자 추출물; 유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 포함하는 아로마 복합 하이드로졸; 및 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물을 포함하는 복합 한방농축액을 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.Specifically, the present invention relates to a citron extract including citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol; Aromatic complex hydrosol containing citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender and rosemary hydrosol; It relates to a cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect, comprising a complex herbal concentrate containing extracts of Angelica gigasia, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, Astragalus, goldenrod and pomegranate extract.
본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 유자 세럼의 기반이 되는 향장 원료(향장 조성물)의 제형을 3단계로 나누어서 평가하였다.In one embodiment of the present invention, the formulation of the cosmetic raw material (cosmetic composition) that forms the basis of the citron serum was evaluated in three stages.
본 발명의 "향장 조성물"은 향장원료를 의미하며, 본 발명에서는 화장료 조성물에 포함되는 일부 성분을 의미한다. 본 발명의 제조예에서는 향장 원료을 제조하기 위하여 다양한 배합비율로 제형예를 제조하였다.“Cosmetic composition” of the present invention refers to cosmetic raw materials, and in the present invention, it refers to some components included in the cosmetic composition. In the production examples of the present invention, formulation examples were prepared at various mixing ratios to prepare cosmetic raw materials.
구체적으로, 1차적으로 유자 추출물 첨가량별 제형의 유화성을 평가하였고, 평가결과로 선발된 1차 제형의 유자 추출물 첨가량 범위 내에서 2차적으로 히알루론산나트륨(Na Hyaluronate)을 첨가하여 안정화 정도를 평가하였다. 이 후, 2차 평가결과로 선발된 2차 제형에서 3차적으로 한방농축액을 첨가하여 최종 안정화 정도 및 사용감을 평가하였다.Specifically, the emulsibility of the formulation was first evaluated by the amount of citron extract added, and the degree of stabilization was evaluated by adding sodium hyaluronate (Na Hyaluronate) secondarily within the range of the amount of citron extract added to the primary formulation selected as a result of the evaluation. did. Afterwards, the herbal medicine concentrate was added a third time to the secondary formulation selected as a result of the secondary evaluation, and the final degree of stabilization and feeling of use were evaluated.
본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 세럼 1차 및 2차 제형을 제조하였고, 이에 대한 관능평가를 수행한 결과 유자 추출물을 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 18이 향취특성도 우수하고, 제형색상도 투명하여 최종적으로 적합하다고 평가되었다(실험예 2). 또한, 기능성 복합정유를 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 21이 꽃향이 섞인 감귤향과 허브향을 골고루 나타내며, 피부잔향도 꽃향이 섞인 은은한 감귤허브향을 나타내어 최종적으로 가장 적합하다고 평가되었다(실험예 3).In one embodiment of the present invention, primary and secondary serum formulations were prepared, and a sensory evaluation was performed on them. As a result, Formulation Example 18, in which 0.1% of citron extract was added, had excellent fragrance characteristics and the formulation color was transparent, so it was finally selected. It was evaluated as suitable (Experimental Example 2). In addition, Formulation Example 21, in which 0.1% of functional complex essential oil was added, exhibited a balanced citrus and herbal scent with a floral scent, and the skin lingering scent also showed a subtle citrus herb scent with a floral scent, so it was ultimately evaluated as the most suitable (Experimental Example 3) .
본 발명의 유자 추출물은 유자 올레오레진, 유자 증류추출 오일 및 유자 하이드로졸을 모두 포함한다.The citron extract of the present invention includes citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol.
본 발명의 "유자(Yuja citron)"는 다른 과일에 비해 비타민C, 구연산, 엽산 등과 같이 저항력과 면역력을 기르는데 유익한 성분을 많이 함유하고 있다. 특히 천연 암 치료제로 불리는 항산화제, 비타민C의 함유량은 보통 늦가을에 수확하는 과일 중 가장 높은 수치를 나타내는 것으로 알려져 있다. 증류추출한 유자의 주요 정유 성분으로는 1알-알파피넨(1R-alpha-pinene), 베타피넨 ((-)-β-Pinene), 트리싸이클레(tricyclene), 알파튜진(α-Thujene), 리모넨 (limonene), 3-까렌(3-carene), 테르피놀렌(Terpinolene), 리나울 (Linalool), 알파테르피네올(alpha-terpineol), dl-베타-파르네센((E)-beta-farnesene), 비 시클로거마크렌(Bicyclogermacrene) 등이 있다. 유자 증류추출한 에센셜 오일에 대한 GC-MASS를 이용한 유자 에센셜오일의 기능성 효과를 나타내는 주요 향기성분 분석 결과는 다음과 같다(표 1).Compared to other fruits, "Yuja citron" of the present invention contains many beneficial ingredients for developing resistance and immunity, such as vitamin C, citric acid, and folic acid. In particular, it is known to have the highest content of vitamin C, an antioxidant called a natural cancer treatment, among fruits harvested in late fall. The main essential oil components distilled from yuzu include 1R-alpha-pinene, (-)-β-Pinene, tricyclene, α-Thujene, and limonene. (limonene), 3-carene, Terpinolene, Linalool, alpha-terpineol, dl-beta-farnesene ((E)-beta-farnesene ), Bicyclogermacrene, etc. The results of analysis of major aroma components showing the functional effects of citron essential oil using GC-MASS for essential oil distilled from citron are as follows (Table 1).
본 발명의 "올레오레진"은 각종 식물에서 분비되는 방향성 물질로서 향취, 색상, 맛을 지닌 정유 성분만을 추출한 것을 의미한다. 따라서, 본 발명의 유자 올레오레진은 유자에서 추출한 방향성 물질을 의미한다.“Oleoresin” of the present invention refers to an aromatic substance secreted from various plants, extracted only from essential oil components with fragrance, color, and taste. Therefore, citron oleoresin of the present invention refers to an aromatic substance extracted from citron.
본 발명의 "증류추출"은 수증기 증류법을 이용하여 물질을 추출하는 것을 의미한다. 수증기 증류법은 수증기를 증류하여 정유를 채유하는 방법으로 물증류법, 물-수증기증류법, 수증기증류법으로 구분된다. “Distillation extraction” of the present invention means extracting a substance using steam distillation. Steam distillation is a method of extracting essential oil by distilling steam and is divided into water distillation, water-steam distillation, and steam distillation.
물증류법은 채유 원료를 물 속에 넣고 가열하여 발생한 수증기와 정유를 냉각한 후, 물과 오일을 분리시키는 방법이다. 원료가 끓는 물에 침적되어 있기 때문에 수증기와 직접 닿지 않는다. 수증기와 직접 닿으면 고괴상으로 되는 오렌지 꽃, 장미 등에 적합하다. 물-수증기증류법은 채유 원료를 증류부 내부에 장치된 격자 위에 층을 쌓고 아래에서 물을 가열하여 증류된 수증기가 시료를 통과하면서 분리된 휘발성 정유성분이 수증기에 혼합된 것을 채유하는 방법이다. 식물 원료는 물에 접촉하지 않기 때문에 과열되지 않은 장점이 있어 주로 중간비점을 요하는 일부 종자, 열매, 과피, 일부 꽃, 전초, 엽 등의 식물에 적합하다. 수증기 증류법은 가장 보편적인 채유방법으로 증류 가마에 원료를 넣고 밑바닥에서 수증기를 불어넣어 정유를 채취하는 방법이다. 주로 저비점을 요하는 증류방법이다. 수증기증류법은 수증기(물)로 정유를 추출하기 때문에 독성이 거의 없으며, 피부 도포에도 안전한 장점이 있다.Water distillation is a method of heating oil raw materials in water, cooling the resulting steam and essential oil, and then separating the water and oil. Because the raw materials are immersed in boiling water, they do not come into direct contact with water vapor. It is suitable for orange flowers and roses, which turn into lumps when they come in direct contact with water vapor. The water-steam distillation method is a method in which oil raw materials are layered on a grid installed inside the distillation unit, water is heated from below, and as the distilled water vapor passes through the sample, the separated volatile essential oil components are mixed with the water vapor. Plant raw materials have the advantage of not overheating because they do not come in contact with water, so they are mainly suitable for plants that require medium boiling points, such as some seeds, fruits, pericarp, some flowers, sentinels, and leaves. Steam distillation is the most common oil extraction method and involves collecting essential oil by putting raw materials in a distillation kiln and blowing steam from the bottom. It is a distillation method that mainly requires a low boiling point. The steam distillation method extracts essential oils using steam (water), so it has little toxicity and has the advantage of being safe for skin application.
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본 발명의 "하이드로졸(hydrosol)"이란, 물이라는 뜻의 라틴어 hydro와 분해를 뜻하는 sol에서 나온 말이며, 방향성 증류수 또는 하이드로졸 워터라고도 한다. 하이드로졸은 정유를 생산하는 과정 또는 순수하게 하이드로졸만 얻기 위해 식물을 증류하는 과정에서 얻어진다. 식물을 수증기 증류하면 오일성분인 정유와 워터성분인 하이드로졸이 생성되는데, 하이드로졸에는 낮은 농도이지만 정유가 포함되어 있다. 또한, 하이드로졸은 방부, 살균효과를 가지고 있으며, 피부의 pH를 조절해주고, 피부에 보습효과를 주며, 피부 질환과 알레르기 반응을 예방하는 작용을 하여 천연화장품의 주원료로 사용되고 있다. The term “hydrosol” of the present invention comes from the Latin words hydro, meaning water, and sol, meaning decomposition, and is also called aromatic distilled water or hydrosol water. Hydrosols are obtained through the process of producing essential oils or by distilling plants to obtain pure hydrosols. When plants are steam distilled, essential oil, which is an oil component, and hydrosol, which is a water component, are produced. Hydrosol contains essential oil, although at a low concentration. In addition, hydrosol has a preservative and sterilizing effect, adjusts the pH of the skin, provides a moisturizing effect to the skin, and prevents skin diseases and allergic reactions, so it is used as a main ingredient in natural cosmetics.
특히 본 연구개발로 특허 출원된 수증기증류장치를 이용하여 생산된 아로마 하이드로졸은 수용성 유효성분과 0.02~0.05%의 아로마오일을 미량 함유하고 있어 에센셜오일의 특성을 그대로 가지고 있다. 또한 에센셜오일에 비해 순하고 안전한 장점과 고유한 에센셜 오일의 향기와 수용성의 기능성 성분을 함유하고 있어 화장수, 스킨토너, 화장품 원료로 사용되고 있다. 또한 증류추출 과정에서 얻어진 하이드로졸은 각종 세균과 미생물이 제거되고, 워터의 산도가 낮아서 미생물이 번식하기 어려워 비교적 장기간 보관 가능한 장점이 있어 세럼과 같이 99% 이상 주원료인 화장수의 원료로서는 최적 조건을 가지고 있다.In particular, the aroma hydrosol produced using the steam distillation device patented through this research and development contains water-soluble active ingredients and a trace amount of 0.02-0.05% aroma oil, retaining the characteristics of essential oil. In addition, it has the advantage of being milder and safer than essential oils and contains the unique scent of essential oils and water-soluble functional ingredients, so it is used as a raw material for lotions, skin toners, and cosmetics. In addition, the hydrosol obtained through the distillation extraction process has the advantage of removing various bacteria and microorganisms, and the low acidity of the water makes it difficult for microorganisms to reproduce, so it has the advantage of being able to be stored for a relatively long period of time, so it has the optimal conditions as a raw material for lotions, which are the main ingredients of more than 99% like serums. there is.
천연정유 및 증류추출물 대량생산장치인 물-수증기증류장치(Water-steam distillation machine)는 본 연구자가 개발하여 특허 등록된 장치로 150kg(내용적) 증류부와 냉각응축기, 가압장치, 감압용 진공펌프 등으로 구성, 시료의 조건에 따라 추출시간을 조정 및 냉각온온도를 조절하여 유효 성분의 추출이 용이한 장치이다. The water-steam distillation machine, a mass production device for natural essential oils and distilled extracts, is a patented device developed by this researcher and includes a 150kg (internal volume) distillation unit, a cooling condenser, a pressurizing device, and a vacuum pump for decompression. It is a device that facilitates the extraction of active ingredients by adjusting the extraction time and cooling temperature according to the conditions of the sample.
천연 하이드로졸 생산방법은 증기증류추출기를 이용한 천연정유 생산시 증류추출기의 내솥에 추출하고자하는 일정양의 시료를 넣고 추출시료에 대한 증류수를 일정비율로 넣어 추출온도와 냉각온도를 일정하게 하여 하이드로졸 생산 속도를 일정하게 유지시키면서 정유와 하이드로졸을 동시에 추출하였다. 이때 생산된 하이드로졸은 일반적으로 세럼 제조에 사용되는 기존의 정제수를 대신하여 사용하였다. 아로마 하이드로졸을 희석하지 않고 원액 그대로 사용하기 위하여 천연정유 추출전에 용매로 투입되는 정제수를 가감하여 농도가 조절된 하이드로졸을 생산한 것을 그대로 사용하였다. 하이드로졸 생산을 위한 원료조건은 생물로 추출하였다. 각 원료에 대한 하이드로졸 생산방법은 한방농축액에서 제시하였던 건조 및 생물 시료에 대한 투입된 정제수 용량과 동일한 방법으로 추출하였다.When producing natural essential oil using a steam distillation extractor, the natural hydrosol production method is to put a certain amount of sample to be extracted into the inner pot of the distillation extractor, add distilled water to the extraction sample at a certain ratio, keep the extraction temperature and cooling temperature constant, and produce hydrosol. Essential oil and hydrosol were extracted simultaneously while keeping the production rate constant. The hydrosol produced at this time was used instead of existing purified water generally used in serum production. In order to use the aroma hydrosol as it is without diluting it, the hydrosol with the concentration adjusted by adding or subtracting purified water as a solvent before extracting the natural essential oil was used as is. Raw material conditions for hydrosol production were extracted from living organisms. The hydrosol production method for each raw material was extracted using the same method as the amount of purified water added to the dried and biological samples presented in the herbal medicine concentrate.
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본 발명의 아로마 복합 하이드로졸(Aroma Complex hydrosol)은 유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 모두 포함한다.The aroma complex hydrosol of the present invention includes citron, green plum, rose, rose geranium, lavender, and rosemary hydrosol.
본 발명의 "유자"는 전술한 바와 같다.“Citron” of the present invention is as described above.
본 발명의 "청매실(Prunus mume (Siebold) Sieblold & Zucc.)"의 하이도로졸은 세럼의 천연 산도조절, 천연 보존제 및 미용효과를 높이기 위해 중요한 주요 원료이다. 따라서 청매실을 증류추출하여 생산한 천연 하이드로졸에 대한 산도 및 피부효능 관련 조사한 결과는 다음과 같다. 천연하이드로졸 산도는 pH 3.85~4.30으로 약산성을 나타내어 세럼 제조용 향장수 원료로 매우 적합하였다. The hydrosol of " Prunus mume (Siebold) Sieblold &Zucc." of the present invention is an important raw material for natural acidity control, natural preservative, and beauty effect of serum. Therefore, the results of a survey on acidity and skin efficacy of natural hydrosol produced by distillation of green plums are as follows. The acidity of the natural hydrosol was slightly acidic at pH 3.85~4.30, making it very suitable as a raw material for perfume for making serums.
본 발명의 "장미(Rosa multiflora Thunb. var. platyphylla Thory)"는 장미과에 속하는 꽃으로, 원종이 되는 야생종만 200여 종이고, 원예종은 셀 수 없을 만큼 많아 'Rosa hybrida'로 불린다. 장미의 다양한 색상은 안토시아닌과 베타카로틴에 의한 것으로, 안토시아닌은 활성 산소를 제거하고 콜라겐 형성을 촉진해주며, 베타카로틴은 항암 효과가 있다고 보고되었다.The "rose (Rosa multiflora Thunb. var. platyphylla Thory)" of the present invention is a flower belonging to the Rosaceae family. There are about 200 wild species that are the original species, and there are countless horticultural species, so it is called 'Rosa hybrida'. The various colors of roses are due to anthocyanin and beta-carotene. Anthocyanin removes free radicals and promotes collagen formation, and beta-carotene has been reported to have anti-cancer effects.
본 발명의 "로즈제라늄(Pelargonium graveolens)"하이드로졸은 증류추출한 방향수로서 시트로네롤(citronellol), 제라니올(geraniol), 리나룰(Linalool) 등을 포함하고 있으며, 긴장완화 효과와 이완 효과가 우수하다. 로즈제라늄 워터에는 수분과 영양분이 가득하여 스킨케어나, 바디케어 제품에 가장 많이 사용된다. 또한 로즈제라늄 하이드로졸에는 항염과 진정효과가 알려져 있어 벌레물린곳이나, 지혈작용을 할 때 사용하기도 하며 촉촉한 수분감이 오래도록 유지될 수 있는 보습력이 우수히고 피지조절 효능이 있어 향장 원료로 가장 많이 활용되고 있다. 로즈제라늄 하이도로졸의 방향성이 강한 향기가 아로마테라피 효과를 주어 천연향기부여에도 매우 유용하다.The "rose geranium ( Pelargonium graveolens )" hydrosol of the present invention is a distilled aromatic water containing citronellol, geraniol, linalool, etc., and has a tension-relieving and relaxation effect. is excellent. Rose geranium water is full of moisture and nutrients and is most often used in skin care and body care products. In addition, rose geranium hydrosol is known to have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, so it is used for insect bites and hemostasis. It has excellent moisturizing properties that can maintain moist moisture for a long time and has a sebum control effect, so it is most often used as a cosmetic raw material. there is. The strong aromatic scent of rose geranium hydrosol has an aromatherapy effect, making it very useful for providing natural fragrance.
본 발명의 "라벤더(Lavandula angustifola (L.) Mill.)" 쌍떡잎식물 통화식물목 꿀풀과에 속하는 식물로 전세계적으로 300여종이 있다. "라벤더"라는 이름은 라틴어의 'lavo' 또는 'lavare(목욕하다)'에서 유래되었다고 하며 지중해 연안이 원산지이나 국내에서도 재배면적이 점점 증가추세에 있다. 허브의 여왕이라고 불리는 라벤더는 진정효과가 뛰어나 자극받은 피부를 달래주고, 피부의 유수분 균형을 유지해주는데 도움을 준다. 또한 피지분비 밸런스 와 피부 윤기 부여 및 안색 개선에 도움을 주며, 마음과 정신을 릴랙스하여 균형을 유지하도록 하는 허브 워터이다." Lavandula angustifola (L.) Mill. " of the present invention is a plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family of the dicotyledonous plant order, and there are about 300 species worldwide. The name "lavender" is said to be derived from the Latin word 'lavo' or 'lavare' (to bathe), and although it is native to the Mediterranean coast, its cultivation area is gradually increasing in Korea. Lavender, known as the queen of herbs, has an excellent soothing effect, soothes irritated skin and helps maintain the skin's oil and moisture balance. It is also an herbal water that helps balance sebum secretion, gives skin shine, improves complexion, and relaxes the mind and spirit to maintain balance.
본 발명의 "로즈마리(Rosmarinus officinalis)"정유는 보르네올(borneol), 시네올(cineol), 테르펜(terpene)등을 포함하고 있으며, 긴장완화 효과와 이완 효과가 우수하다.The "Rosmarinus officinalis" essential oil of the present invention contains borneol, cineol, terpene, etc. and has excellent tension-relieving and relaxation effects.
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본 발명의 복합 한방농축액은 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물을 모두 포함한다. 본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 참당귀 3~10중량%, 어성초 10~20중량%, 감초 15~30중량%, 녹차 3~10중량%, 작약꽃 3~15중량%, 토천궁 3~10중량%, 황기 5~15중량%, 황금 5~15중량%, 석류 3~10중량%로 혼합하여 기능성 혼합 한방농축액을 제조하였다(제조예 2).The complex herbal concentrate of the present invention contains extracts of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice root, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, astragalus, goldenrod and pomegranate. In one embodiment of the present invention, 3 to 10% by weight of angelica root, 10 to 20% by weight of Houttuynia cordata, 15 to 30% by weight of licorice, 3 to 10% by weight of green tea, 3 to 15% by weight of peony flower, and 3 to 10% by weight of Tocheongung. %, 5-15% by weight of Astragalus, 5-15% by weight of gold, and 3-10% by weight of pomegranate were mixed to prepare a functional mixed herbal concentrate (Preparation Example 2).
또한, 추가적으로 로즈마리 올레오레진 추출물, 글리세린, 부틸렌글리콜을 포함할 수 있다. 본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물을 90중량%, 로즈마리 올레오레진 추출물, 글리세린 및 부틸렌글리콜을 10중량%로 혼합하여 한방농축액을 제조하였다(제조예 2).Additionally, it may additionally contain rosemary oleoresin extract, glycerin, and butylene glycol. In one embodiment of the present invention, 90% by weight of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, Astragalus, golden and pomegranate extracts, and 10% by weight of rosemary oleoresin extract, glycerin and butylene glycol are mixed. An herbal concentrate was prepared (Preparation Example 2).
각 한방농축액으로 사용한 한약재 원료에 대해 일반적으로 알려진 약용 특성을 조사하여 기술하였고 증류추출후 생산된 천연정유를 GC-MASS 분석을 통하여 한약재가 함유한 약용성분 함량을 조사한 결과를 다음과 같이 제시하였다. The generally known medicinal properties of the herbal medicine raw materials used in each herbal concentrate were investigated and described, and the results of investigating the content of medicinal ingredients contained in the herbal medicines through GC-MASS analysis of the natural essential oil produced after distillation and extraction were presented as follows.
본 발명에서 “참당귀(Angelica gigas)”는 생약명으로 당귀(當歸). 문귀(文歸), 대근(大芹), 건귀(乾歸)라고도 불린다. 약리학적으로 관상동맥의 혈류량을 촉진시키고, 적혈구 생성을 돕는다. 본 발명의 “참당귀 정유”는 상기 참당귀의 건조된 뿌리를 증류 추출한 것이다.In the present invention, “ Angelica gigas ” is the herbal medicine name, Angelica gigas. It is also called Mungui (文歸), Daegeun (大芹), and Geongui (乾歸). Pharmacologically, it promotes blood flow in coronary arteries and helps produce red blood cells. The “Angelica root essential oil” of the present invention is distilled and extracted from the dried roots of the Angelica root.
본 발명에서 “어성초(Houttuynia cordata)”는 약모밀이라는 약초이며 잎에서 비린내가 난다고 해서 어성초라고 이름 붙여졌다. 꽃이 피기 전의 식물체를 이뇨제와 구충제로 사용하고, 잎을 짓찧어 종기와 독충에 물렸을 때 바른다. 민간에서는 부스럼·화농·치질에 사용하고, 한방에서는 식물체를 임질·장염·요로감염증·폐렴·기관지염에 사용한다. 잎이 메밀의 잎과 비슷하고 약용식물이므로 약모밀이라고 부른다. 본 발명에서 “어성초 정유”는 상기 생물 어성초 전초를 증류 추출한 것이다.In the present invention, “ Houttuynia cordata ” is a medicinal herb called Yakmomil and was named Houttuynia cordata because the leaves emit a fishy smell. The plant before flowering is used as a diuretic and anthelmintic, and the leaves are crushed and applied to boils and poisonous insect bites. In the private sector, it is used for swelling, suppuration, and hemorrhoids, and in oriental medicine, the plant is used for gonorrhea, enteritis, urinary tract infection, pneumonia, and bronchitis. The leaves are similar to buckwheat leaves and are medicinal plants, so they are called medicinal buckwheat. In the present invention, “Houttuynia cordata essential oil” is distilled and extracted from the living Houttuynia cordata whole plant.
본 발명에서 “감초(Glydyrrhizae Radix et Rhizoma)”는 남유럽, 아시아 및 지중해 연안에 자생하는 다년생 식물로써 러시아, 스페인, 이란 및 인디아 등지에서 광범위하게 재배되고 있다. 전세계적으로 널리 쓰이는 감초는 고대 힌두교 의술에서는 염증, 눈병, 소화기 계통의 궤양, 관절염 및 간질환에 쓰였으며 그 이유는 감초가 거담, 완화제, 항염, 항바이러스, 간독성 해독 및 항균 등의 효과가 있기 때문입니다. 감초 추출물의 주 구성 성분인 Glabridin은 피부에 대한 작용과 피부톤 조절 작용으로 알려져 있다. Glabridin과 폴라보노이드 성분들은 멜라닌 생성을 억제하는 역할을 하여 피부톤 조절, 피지조절, 멜라닌 억제, 미백, 진정작용으로 효능이 알려져 있다. In the present invention, “ Glydyrrhizae Radix et Rhizoma” is a perennial plant native to southern Europe, Asia, and the Mediterranean coast and is widely cultivated in Russia, Spain, Iran, and India. Licorice, which is widely used around the world, was used in ancient Hindu medicine to treat inflammation, eye disease, digestive system ulcers, arthritis, and liver disease because it has expectorant, emollient, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, hepatotoxic detoxification, and antibacterial effects. because of. Glabridin, the main component of licorice extract, is known for its action on the skin and for regulating skin tone. Glabridin and flavonoid ingredients play a role in suppressing melanin production and are known to be effective in controlling skin tone, sebum control, suppressing melanin, whitening, and soothing.
본 발명의 "녹차"는 전술한 바와 같다.The “green tea” of the present invention is as described above.
본 발명의 "작약(Paeonia lactiflora Pallas)"에는 피오니 플로린이라는 성분이 함유되어 있다. 피오니 플로린 성분은 염증완화 효과를 가진다. 특히 작약은 혈액순환작용과 어혈을 풀어주고 피를 잘 돌게 하고 상처를 아물게 하고 기미를 예방하는 효과가 있어 작약의 뿌리는 소염, 진통, 항균, 지혈 등은 물론 생리통, 생리불순 등의 부인병과 소화 장애로 인한 복통, 설사 등에도 유용하게 쓰이고 있어 작약은 약용으로 알려진 뿌리 부위를 비롯해 줄기의 껍질, 수액, 꽃잎 등의 부위를 화장품 원료로 활용되고 있다. . “Paeonia lactiflora Pallas” of the present invention contains a component called peony florin. Peony florin has an inflammation-relieving effect. In particular, peony has the effect of improving blood circulation, relieving blood stagnation, circulating blood well, healing wounds, and preventing freckles. Peony's root has anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antibacterial, and hemostasis effects as well as gynecological diseases such as menstrual pain and irregularity, as well as digestion. It is useful for treating abdominal pain and diarrhea caused by disabilities, and peony's roots, which are known for medicinal purposes, as well as parts such as stem bark, sap, and petals, are used as raw materials for cosmetics. .
본 발명에서 “토천궁(Cnidium officinale)"은 미나리과의 식물로 항염증 효과를 가지며, 독성이 없어 염증성 질환 치료에 유용하게 사용한다. 특히 진통 및 강장제, 혈압강화, 혈관확장, 항균작용, 혈액순환 개선 용도로 활용되고 있다.In the present invention, "Tocheongung ( Cnidium officinale )" is a plant of the Apiaceae family that has an anti-inflammatory effect and is non-toxic, so it is useful in the treatment of inflammatory diseases. In particular, it is an analgesic and tonic, strengthens blood pressure, expands blood vessels, antibacterial action, and blood circulation. It is being used for improvement purposes.
본 발명에서 "황기(Astragalus propinquus)"는 콩과에 속히며 주로 약효가 있는 뿌리를 약재로 이용한다. 황기뿌리에 함유한 칼리코신, 포르모노케틴, 트리테르페노이드 성분은 노화와 각종 성인병의 원인이 되는 활성산소가 체내에서 생산되는 것과 염증을 억제시켜주는 작용으로 항산화, 항노화, 항염증 작용을 가지고 있다. 또한 황기뿌리에 함유한 플라보노이드, 사포닌, 다당류 등 다양한 활성 물질은 항산화제로서 항암, 항염, 항균 작용으로 작용하여 화장품의 미용 효과와 함께 천연 보존제로 활용되고 있다.In the present invention, " Astragalus propinquus " belongs to the legume family, and the root with medicinal properties is mainly used as a medicine. Calicosin, formonoketin, and triterpenoid components contained in Astragalus root have antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory effects by suppressing inflammation and the production of free radicals in the body, which cause aging and various adult diseases. Have. In addition, various active substances such as flavonoids, saponins, and polysaccharides contained in Astragalus root act as antioxidants with anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial effects, and are used as natural preservatives along with cosmetic effects.
본 발명에서 “황금(Scutellaria baicalensis George)”은 꿀풀과에 속하며, 생약에서 황금의 뿌리를 말린것으로 봄 또는 가을에 뿌리를 캐서 겉껍질과 썩은 곳을 긁어 버리고 물에 씻어 햇볕에 말려 약재로 사용한다. 뿌리가 노란색이어서 황금이라고 불린다. 황금에서 추출한 플라보노이드 성분인 바이카레인(Baicalein)은 해열, 소염, 함염, 효능을 가지며 피부자극 완화, 피부 발진, 버짐, 여드름, 건선, 흑반 등 피부 트러블과 피부염 등에 우수한 효능이 알려지고 있으며 방부 효능이 있어 황금추출물을 이용한 화장품 개발에 많이 활용되고 있다.In the present invention, “Golden ( Scutellaria baicalensis George )” belongs to the Lamiaceae family, and is the dried golden root in herbal medicine. The roots are dug up in spring or fall, the outer skin and rotten areas are scraped off, washed in water, dried in the sun, and used as a medicine. . It is called golden because its roots are yellow. Baicalein, a flavonoid extracted from gold, has antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-inflammatory effects, and is known to be effective in relieving skin irritation, skin troubles such as skin rash, ringworm, acne, psoriasis, and dark spots, and dermatitis. It also has preservative properties. For this reason, it is widely used in the development of cosmetics using golden extract.
본 발명에서 “석류(Punica granatum)”는 낙엽 관목으로 여성의 과일로 유기산 함량이 높고 가수 분해성 탄닌, 플라보노르, 글루코시드, 뿌로시아니진, 페놀산, 에라구산 유도체, 플라보노이드 등 상당한 양의 페놀 화합물이 포함되어 있어 항산화활성이 뛰어난 것으로 알려져 있다. 특히 석류속에 함유한 에라그산은 탄니과 결합한 에라그탄닌이 가수분해되어 에라그산이 되는데 강력한 항암작용, 항염, 항산화 작용을 한다. 그리고 석류가 함유한 플라보노이드와 다양한 안토시아닌, 천연식물성 에스트로겐을 함유하고 있어서 기미, 잡티, 주근깨 예방에 좋으며 피부보습, 항노화, 미백 및 피부 탄력 효과를 가진다.In the present invention, “Pomegranate ( Punica granatum )” is a deciduous shrub and female fruit with a high content of organic acids and significant amounts of hydrolyzable tannins, flavonors, glucosides, furocyanisin, phenolic acids, eragusic acid derivatives, and flavonoids. It is known to have excellent antioxidant activity because it contains phenol compounds. In particular, erlagic acid contained in pomegranates is hydrolyzed from erragic tannin combined with tannin to form erlagic acid, which has powerful anticancer, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects. It also contains flavonoids from pomegranates, various anthocyanins, and natural plant estrogen, so it is good for preventing spots, blemishes, and freckles, and has skin moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, and skin elasticity effects.
본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 유자 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 청매실 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 장미꽃 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 로즈제라늄 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 라벤더 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 로즈마리 하이드로졸 15~30중량%로 혼합하여 유자 세럼용 혼합 하이드로졸을 제조하였다.In one embodiment of the present invention, 15-30% by weight of citron hydrosol, 15-30% by weight of green plum hydrosol, 15-30% by weight of rose hydrosol, 15-30% by weight of rose geranium hydrosol, and 15-30% by weight of lavender hydrosol. A mixed hydrosol for citron serum was prepared by mixing 30% by weight of rosemary hydrosol and 15 to 30% by weight of rosemary hydrosol.
상기 화장료 조성물 총 중량에 대하여, 유자 추출물은 0.01~20중량%, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸은 60~80중량%, 복합 한방농축액은 0.1~25중량%로 포함될 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 유자 추출물은 0.01~5중량%, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸은 60~70중량%, 복합 한방농축액은 0.1~5중량%로 포함될 수 있다. 본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 유자추출물 0.1중량%, 아로마 복합 하이드로졸은 63.41중량%, 복합 한방농축액 0.5중량%로 포함시켜 화장료 조성물을 제조하였다(실험예 3).Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the citron extract may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, the aroma complex hydrosol may be included in an amount of 60 to 80% by weight, and the complex herbal concentrate may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 25% by weight. Preferably, the citron extract may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight. It can be included at 5% by weight, aroma complex hydrosol at 60-70% by weight, and complex herbal concentrate at 0.1-5% by weight. In one example of the present invention, a cosmetic composition was prepared containing 0.1% by weight of citron extract, 63.41% by weight of aroma complex hydrosol, and 0.5% by weight of complex herbal concentrate (Experimental Example 3).
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본 발명은 세럼 제형으로 제조될 수 있으나, 이에 제한되는 것은 아니다. The present invention may be prepared as a serum formulation, but is not limited thereto.
본 발명의 "세럼"은 피부에 영양, 수분 및 윤기를 공급하는 미용 농축액을 의미한다. 일반적인 세럼은 기능성에 초점을 둔 것에 반해, 본 발명의 세럼 조성물은 아로마테라피 효능에 초점을 두고 있다. 따라서, 본 발명의 세럼 조성물은 피부에 영양 및 보습 성분을 전달하면서, 아로마테라피 효능까지 발휘하는 새로운 세럼 제형의 화장료 조성물을 제공한다.“Serum” of the present invention refers to a cosmetic concentrate that supplies nutrition, moisture and shine to the skin. While general serums focus on functionality, the serum composition of the present invention focuses on aromatherapy efficacy. Therefore, the serum composition of the present invention provides a new serum-type cosmetic composition that delivers nutritional and moisturizing ingredients to the skin and also exhibits aromatherapy effects.
본 발명은 세럼 제형의 화장료 조성물을 제조하기 위하여 다양한 배합비율로 제형예를 제조하였다. 구체적으로 세럼 1차 및 2차 제형을 제조하였고, 이에 대한 관능평가를 수행한 결과 유자 추출물을 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 18이 향취특성도 우수하고, 제형색상도 투명하여 최종적으로 적합하다고 평가되었다(실험예 2). 또한, 기능성 복합정유를 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 21이 꽃향이 섞인 감귤향과 허브향을 골고루 나타내며, 피부잔향도 꽃향이 섞인 은은한 감귤허브향을 나타내어 최종적으로 가장 적합하다고 평가되었다(실험예 3).In order to prepare a serum-type cosmetic composition, the present invention prepared formulation examples with various mixing ratios. Specifically, the first and second serum formulations were prepared, and a sensory evaluation was performed on them. As a result, Formulation Example 18, in which 0.1% of citron extract was added, had excellent fragrance characteristics and the formulation color was transparent, so it was finally evaluated as suitable ( Experimental Example 2). In addition, Formulation Example 21, in which 0.1% of functional complex essential oil was added, exhibited a balanced citrus and herbal scent with a floral scent, and the skin lingering scent also showed a subtle citrus herb scent with a floral scent, so it was ultimately evaluated as the most suitable (Experimental Example 3) .
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또한, 추가적으로 세럼 향을 개선하기 위하여, 기능성 복합정유의 첨가량을 달리한 후 세럼 3차 제형을 제조하여 관능평가를 수행하였다. 기능성 복합정유는 네롤리, 로즈제라늄, 자스민 및 로즈마리 정유를 혼합하여 제조하였다. 구체적으로 네롤리 정유 0.5, 로즈제라늄 정유 0.5, 호호바 정유에 자스민 정유를 0.3% 혼합하여 제조한 자스민 정유 1, 로즈마리 정유 1을 혼합하여 기능성 복합정유를 제조하였다. 그 결과 기능성 복합정유를 0.1중량%로 첨가한 제형이 꽃향이 섞인 감귤향과 허브향을 골고루 나타내며, 피부잔향도 꽃향이 섞인 은은한 감귤허브향을 나타내었다.In addition, in order to further improve the serum scent, a tertiary serum formulation was prepared by varying the amount of functional complex essential oil added and a sensory evaluation was performed. Functional complex essential oil was prepared by mixing neroli, rose geranium, jasmine, and rosemary essential oils. Specifically, functional complex essential oil was prepared by mixing 0.5 neroli essential oil, 0.5 rose geranium essential oil, 1 jasmine essential oil prepared by mixing 0.3% jasmine essential oil with jojoba essential oil, and 1 rosemary essential oil. As a result, the formulation containing 0.1% by weight of functional complex essential oil exhibited a balanced citrus and herbal scent with a floral scent, and the lingering skin scent also showed a subtle citrus herb scent with a floral scent.
상기 화장료 조성물은 기능성 복합 정유를 더 포함할 수 있다. 기능성 복합 정유는 제조된 화장료 조성물의 향을 개선하기 위하여 사용된다.The cosmetic composition may further include functional complex essential oil. Functional complex essential oils are used to improve the scent of manufactured cosmetic compositions.
상기 기능성 복합 정유는 네롤리, 로즈제라늄, 자스민 및 로즈마리 오일을 혼합하여 사용할 수 있으며, 이에 제한되는 것은 아니다. 상기 복합 정유는 0.01~0.2중량%로 포함할 수 있으며, 본 발명의 일 실시예에서는 복합 정유를 0.1중량%로 포함하였을 때 꽃향이 섞인 감귤향과 허브향을 골고루 나타내며, 피부잔향도 꽃향이 섞인 은은한 감귤허브향을 나타내어 향이 가장 우수하였다(실험예 3).The functional complex essential oil can be used by mixing neroli, rose geranium, jasmine and rosemary oils, but is not limited thereto. The complex essential oil may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2% by weight. In one embodiment of the present invention, when the complex essential oil is included in an amount of 0.1% by weight, it exhibits a citrus scent mixed with a floral scent and an herbal scent, and the skin lingering scent is also mixed with a floral scent. The scent was the best, showing a subtle citrus herb scent (Experimental Example 3).
본 발명의 "네롤리"는 섬세하고 우아한 향을 지니고 있어 고급향수의 원료에 주로 쓰이며, 에센셜오일 중 가장 뛰어난 진정효과와 항우울 효과를 가지고 있어, 아로마테라피에서는 진정 및 스트레스 해소, 최음제, 방부제, 항박테리아제로 사용된다. 또한 네롤리는 무독성, 무자극, 비민감성오일로 알려져 있어 아로마테라피에서는 피부 붉어짐과 염증을 줄이는데 권하며 모세혈관이 파괴된 건조하고 민감한 피부에 사용되며, 피부세포에 활력을 찾아주고 탄력성을 개선해주어 노화피부에도 사용되고 있다. 달콤하면서도 약간 톡 쏘는 프레쉬한 향취를 가지고 있다. 네롤리 정유는 α-피넨(α-pinene), 캄펜(camphene), 사비넨(sabinene), β-피넨(β-pinene), 미르센(myrcene), β-3카렌(β-3-carene), 리모넨(limonene), 테르피넨(terpinene) 등을 포함하고 있다."Neroli" of the present invention has a delicate and elegant scent and is mainly used as a raw material for high-end perfumes. It has the most outstanding sedative and antidepressant effects among essential oils, and in aromatherapy, it is used as a sedative, stress relieving, aphrodisiac, preservative, and antidepressant. Used as a bacterial agent. In addition, neroli is known as a non-toxic, non-irritating and non-sensitizing oil, so it is recommended in aromatherapy to reduce skin redness and inflammation. It is used for dry and sensitive skin with damaged capillaries. It revitalizes skin cells and improves elasticity for aging skin. It is also used. It has a fresh, sweet yet slightly tangy scent. Neroli essential oil contains α-pinene, camphene, sabinene, β-pinene, myrcene, β-3-carene, Contains limonene, terpinene, etc.
본 발명의 "자스민"은 강한 향기를 가지고 있어, 주로 향료와 차의 원료로 많이 사용되고 있다. 자스민의 알려진 효능으로는 피부미용, 분만촉진, 소독, 자궁강장, 진경, 진정, 최유, 최음, 통경, 신경을 진정시키는 항우울 작용 등이 있다.“Jasmine” of the present invention has a strong scent and is mainly used as a raw material for perfume and tea. Known effects of jasmine include skin care, accelerated labor, disinfection, uterine tonic, antispasmodic, sedative, galactorrhea, aphrodisiac, painkiller, and antidepressant effect that calms the nerves.
또한, 본 발명은 (a) 유자 올레오레진, 유자 증류추출 오일 및 유자 하이드로졸을 포함하는 유자 추출물을 제조하는 단계; (b) 유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 혼합하여 아로마 복합 하이드로졸을 제조하는 단계; (c) 당귀, 어성초, 감초, 국화, 녹차, 작약꽃, 천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물에 글리세린 및 부틸렌글리콜을 첨가하여 한방농축액을 제조하는 단계; 및 (d) 상기 유자추출물, 상기 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 상기 한방농축액을 혼합하는 단계를 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물의 제조방법을 제공한다.In addition, the present invention includes the steps of (a) preparing a citron extract containing citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol; (b) preparing an aroma complex hydrosol by mixing citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, and rosemary hydrosol; (c) preparing an herbal concentrate by adding glycerin and butylene glycol to extracts of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, chrysanthemum, green tea, peony flower, Astragalus, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate; and (d) mixing the citron extract, the aroma complex hydrosol, and the herbal concentrate. It provides a method for producing a cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect.
또한, 본 발명은 상기 (d) 단계 이후에 복합 정유를 포함하는 단계를 더 포함할 수 있다.In addition, the present invention may further include a step of including complex essential oil after step (d).
이하, 실시예를 통하여 본 발명의 구성 및 효과를 더욱 상세히 설명하고자 한다. 이들 실시예는 오로지 본 발명을 예시하기 위한 것일 뿐, 본 발명의 범위가 이들 실시예에 의해 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples.
[제조예 1] 유자 올레오레진 추출물 제조 및 피부효능 평가[Preparation Example 1] Preparation of citron oleoresin extract and evaluation of skin efficacy
1. 유자 올레오레진 추출물 제조1. Preparation of citron oleoresin extract
유자 올레오레진 추출물은 하기 추출방법을 통해 제조하였다. 유자 과피를 냉압착하여 천연정유를 추출한 후 부산물로 생산된 생물압착 과피를 이용하였다. 냉압착된 유자 생물 과피를 이용하여 향장용 올레오레진을 추출하였다. 구체적으로, 냉압착후 부산물로 생산된 생물 압착과피로부터 유자 올레오레진을 추출하기 위하여 사용된 용매는 발효주정(95% 에틸알코올)이며, 추출조건은 생물과피 : 발효주정 = 1: 10의 비율로 추출온도 40℃, 5시간 추출할 경우 유자 올레오레진 추출수율이 10.8%가 생산되었다. 향장용 기능성 소재로 활용하기 위하여 추출된 유자 올레오레진에 대한 피부효능과 관련한 기능성 성분에 대한 함량을 조사한 결과 항산화활성 88.2 Vit C eq. ㎎/100 g, 미백효과 54.5%, 총 플라보노이드 518.2 ㎎/100 g로 높게 나타나 향장용 기능성 원료로서 충분한 효능이 있는 것으로 평가되었다. 상기 방법으로 추출한 유자 올레오레진을 기능성 강화 유자 에센스(세럼) 제조의 첨가물로 활용하였다.Citron oleoresin extract was prepared through the following extraction method. The natural essential oil was extracted by cold-pressing the citron peel, and then the bio-pressed peel produced as a by-product was used. Oleoresin for cosmetic use was extracted using cold-pressed citron peel. Specifically, the solvent used to extract citron oleoresin from the biological pressed skin produced as a by-product after cold pressing is fermented alcohol (95% ethyl alcohol), and the extraction conditions are biological skin: fermented alcohol = 1:10. When extracted at an extraction temperature of 40°C for 5 hours, the citron oleoresin extraction yield was 10.8%. As a result of examining the content of functional ingredients related to skin efficacy for citron oleoresin extracted to be used as a functional material for cosmetics, the antioxidant activity was 88.2 Vit C eq. ㎎/100 g, whitening effect of 54.5%, and total flavonoids were high at 518.2 ㎎/100 g, so it was evaluated as having sufficient efficacy as a functional raw material for cosmetics. Citron oleoresin extracted using the above method was used as an additive in the production of functionally enhanced citron essence (serum).
하기 표 2는 올레오레진 추출 조건별 유기산 함량 (단위: ㎎/생물중 100 g)을 나타낸 것이다. 올레오레진 수율 9% 이상 Duncan's 다중검정 통계처리하였다.Table 2 below shows the organic acid content (unit: mg/100 g of organism) according to oleoresin extraction conditions. Oleoresin yield of over 9% was subjected to Duncan's multiple test statistical processing.
하기 표 3은 올레오레진 추출 조건별 플라보노이드 색소 함량 (단위: ㎎/생물중 100 g)을 나타낸 것이며, 올레오레진 수율 9% 이상 Duncan's 다중검정 통계처리하였다.Table 3 below shows the flavonoid pigment content (unit: mg/100 g of organism) according to oleoresin extraction conditions, and oleoresin yield of 9% or more was subjected to Duncan's multiple test statistical processing.
하기 표 4는 올레오레진 추출 조건별 항산화 및 미백 효과를 나타낸 것이며, 올레오레진 수율 9% 이상 Duncan's 다중검정 통계처리하였다.Table 4 below shows the antioxidant and whitening effects by oleoresin extraction conditions, and oleoresin yield of 9% or more was subjected to Duncan's multiple test statistical processing.
하기 표 5는 올레오레진 추출 조건별 향기성분을 분석(단위: Area %, GC-MASS)한 것이다.Table 5 below analyzes the aroma components by oleoresin extraction conditions (unit: Area %, GC-MASS).
2. 유자 올레오레진 추출물의 피부효능 평가2. Evaluation of skin efficacy of citron oleoresin extract
유자 올레오레진에 대한 피부 효능 관능평가 결과를 표 6 및 표 7에 나타내었다. 각 수치는 세안전에 아무처리 하지 않은 무처리구와 비교한 수치이며, 양수는 무처리구보다 증가됨을, 음수는 무처리구보다 감소됨을 나타낸다. 대조구는 호호바오일 100%를 처리한 것이며, 실험구는 호호바오일 90%에 유자 올레오레진 10%를 첨가한 것이다.The skin efficacy sensory evaluation results for citron oleoresin are shown in Tables 6 and 7. Each value is compared to the untreated group that did not do anything for tax safety, with positive numbers indicating an increase compared to the untreated group, and negative numbers indicating a decrease compared to the untreated group. The control group was treated with 100% jojoba oil, and the experimental group was treated with 90% jojoba oil and 10% citron oleoresin.
(대조구)Jojoba oil
(Control group)
(실험구)Jojoba oil + oleoresin
(experimental group)
(실험구-대조구)Comparison of oleoresin efficacy against jojoba
(Experimental group-Control group)
항염증 우수By reducing erythema
Excellent anti-inflammatory
표 7을 살펴보면, 세안전 무처리에 비해 처리후 보습, 탄력 등이 증가하고 홍반과 멜라닌이 감소하여 피부효능이 있는 것으로 평가되었다.Looking at Table 7, it was evaluated to be effective for the skin as moisturization and elasticity increased and erythema and melanin decreased after treatment compared to non-treatment.
또한, 대조구 대비 실험구에서 보습, 탄력 등이 증가하고 홍반과 멜라닌이 감소하여 피부효능이 있는 것으로 평가되었다. 또한 대조구인 호호바오일 처리 그룹에 비해 10% 유자 올레오레진이 첨가된 실험구에서 보습성 증가, 홍반과 멜라닌 억제로 보습성과 항염증, 미배효과가 더 우수한 것으로 평가되었다.In addition, moisturizing and elasticity increased and erythema and melanin decreased in the experimental group compared to the control group, so it was evaluated as effective for the skin. In addition, compared to the jojoba oil treatment group, which is the control group, the experimental group with 10% citron oleoresin was evaluated to have better moisturizing properties, anti-inflammatory properties, and rice pear effects due to increased moisturizing properties and suppression of erythema and melanin.
[제조예 2] 혼합 한방농축액 제조[Preparation Example 2] Preparation of mixed herbal concentrate
한방농축액 추출방법은 본 연구개발에 사용된 물-수증기증류장치(Water-Steam Distillation System, 등록특허 제10-1105539호)를 이용하였다. The method of extracting the herbal medicine concentrate was the Water-Steam Distillation System (Patent No. 10-1105539) used in this research and development.
한방농축액 제조를 위한 방법으로 먼저 농축할 한방 재료를 준비한 다음 각 한방 시료별로 증류추출기 내솥에 추출용 용매인 정제수와 닿지 않도록 선반을 걸어 선반위에 일정량의 한방재료를 층층히 쌓아 둔다. 증류기 내솥의 정제수가 가열되면 수증기가 올라가 한방재료를 통과하면서 한방재료는 중기에 의해 가열, 분해되어 수용화된 미세한 한약재의 유용물질이 증기 형태로 냉각관을 거쳐 천연 에센셜오일과 천연 하이드로졸을 생산한다. 다른 한편으론 냉각관을 통과하지 못한 한약재의 유용물질을 함유한 증기는 응축되어 내솥으로 떨어져 다시 가열이 되어 증기상태로 한방 재료를 통과하여 다시 응축되어 떨어지는 것을 반복하는 동안 증류추출기 내솥에는 한방 유용물질이 농축하게 되게 된다. 일정시간 증류추출하면서 내솥의 정제수는 감소하여 한약제의 유용물질이 고농도로 농축된다. 이때 내솥에 있는 고농도의 농축액을 필터링하여 한방농축액으로 사용하였다. 보통 50L 용량의 증류추출기 내솥의 경우 건조된 한약재는 시료 5kg당 정제수 총 50L를 2회로 나누어 증류추출하고 생물 시료는 10kg당 정제수 총 50L를 2회로 나누어 증류추출하여 내솥의 총 농축액의 용량이 10%인 10L가 될 때까지 증류추출하는데 총 증류추출시간은 건조한약재는 25~28시간, 생물은 10~12시간 장시간 저온추출한다. 증류추출한 각 원료별 한방농축액은 증류된 수증기를 통과하면서 미세하게 분해된 유용한 수용성과 지용성 물질 및 색소류 등을 함유하며 100℃ 저온에서 서서히 장시간 증류추출되어 한방 약용성분이 파괴되지 않고 피부흡수에 좋은 미세성분으로 분해되어 있어 일반 한약재의 물 추출물과 차이가 있다. As a method for producing herbal concentrate, first prepare the herbal ingredients to be concentrated, then hang a shelf in the inner pot of the distillation extractor for each herbal medicine sample to avoid contact with purified water, which is the extraction solvent, and stack a certain amount of herbal ingredients on the shelf. When the purified water in the inner pot of the distiller is heated, the water vapor rises and passes through the oriental medicine ingredients. The oriental medicine ingredients are heated and decomposed by the medium, and the useful substances of the fine herbal medicine dissolved in water pass through the cooling pipe in the form of steam to produce natural essential oil and natural hydrosol. do. On the other hand, the vapor containing the useful substances of the herbal medicine that did not pass through the cooling tube is condensed and falls into the inner pot, where it is heated again and passes through the herbal medicine ingredients in a vapor state, condensing again and falling, while the useful substances of the herbal medicine are contained in the inner pot of the distillation extractor. This becomes concentrated. During distillation and extraction for a certain period of time, the purified water in the inner pot decreases and the useful substances in the herbal medicine are concentrated to a high concentration. At this time, the highly concentrated concentrate in the inner pot was filtered and used as an herbal concentrate. In the case of an inner pot of a distillation extractor with a capacity of usually 50L, dried herbal medicines are distilled and extracted in two times with a total of 50L of purified water per 5kg of sample, and biological samples are distilled and extracted in two times with a total of 50L of purified water per 10kg, so that the total concentrate capacity of the inner pot is 10%. Phosphorus is distilled and extracted until 10L is reached. The total distillation extraction time is 25 to 28 hours for dried medicinal materials and 10 to 12 hours for living organisms. The oriental herbal concentrate of each raw material extracted by distillation contains useful water-soluble and fat-soluble substances and pigments that are finely decomposed while passing through distilled water vapor. It is slowly distilled and extracted at a low temperature of 100°C for a long period of time to prevent the oriental herbal medicinal ingredients from being destroyed and is good for skin absorption. It is broken down into fine components, so it is different from the water extract of regular herbal medicine.
피부의 혈액순환과 진정작용, 면역성 증진에 도움을 주는 참당귀, 어성초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 천궁, 석류 등과 소염과 항균성에 도움을 주는 감초, 황기, 황금 등을 각각 저온 증류추출한 후 생산된 증류농축액을 배합하여 복합 한방농축액으로 제조하였다. 그리고 항균성과 보습성의 부여와 용매제의 역할을 하기 위하여 로즈마리 올레오레진, 글리세린, 부틸렌글리콜 등을 첨가한 복합 한방농축액을 고농축 유자 에센스의 기능성 첨가물로 활용하였다. Distillation produced after low-temperature distillation of Angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, green tea, peony flower, Cheongung, and pomegranate, which help improve skin's blood circulation, soothing effect, and immunity, as well as licorice, astragalus, and goldenrod, which help with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. The concentrates were mixed to prepare a complex herbal concentrate. In order to provide antibacterial and moisturizing properties and act as a solvent, a complex herbal concentrate containing rosemary oleoresin, glycerin, and butylene glycol was used as a functional additive for highly concentrated citron essence.
기능성 복합 한방농축액(Mixed Herbal Concentrate)은 하기 표 8과 같은 성분으로 구성하여 제조하였다. 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금, 석류 추출물을 혼합하여 한방농축액 총 중량에 대하여 90중량%로 포함시켰다. 그 외 로즈마리 올레오레진 추출물, 글리세린, 부틸렌글리콜을 첨가하여 최종 한방농축액을 제조하였다(표 8).The functional mixed herbal concentrate (Mixed Herbal Concentrate) was prepared with the ingredients shown in Table 8 below. Angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice root, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate extracts were mixed and included at 90% by weight based on the total weight of the herbal concentrate. In addition, rosemary oleoresin extract, glycerin, and butylene glycol were added to prepare the final herbal concentrate (Table 8).
[제조예 3] 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 제조[Preparation Example 3] Preparation of aroma complex hydrosol
본 발명의 기능성 세럼 시제품 개발을 위해 사용된 천연 하이드로졸은 피부수렴과 청정효과를 가지는 하이드로졸을 이용하였고, 피부 탄력과 진정효과를 가지는 유자, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더 등의 하이드로졸과 그리고 피부의 산도조절과 유연성 효과를 주는 청매실 하이드로졸 등을 적정 배율로 혼합한 아로마 복합 하이드졸(Aroma Blend Hydrosol)을 제조한 후 세럼 제형의 99% 이상을 차지하는 수상층의 주원료로 활용하였다.The natural hydrosol used to develop the functional serum prototype of the present invention was a hydrosol with skin astringent and cleansing effects, and hydrosols such as citron, rose geranium, and lavender, which have skin elasticity and soothing effects, and skin acidity Aroma Blend Hydrosol was manufactured by mixing green plum hydrosol, which provides conditioning and flexibility effects, at an appropriate ratio and then used as the main ingredient for the water layer, which accounts for more than 99% of the serum formulation.
본 발명의 제조예에서는 유자 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 청매실 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 장미꽃 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 로즈제라늄 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 라벤더 하이드로졸 15~30중량%, 로즈마리 하이드로졸 15~30중량%로 혼합하여 유자 세럼용 혼합 하이드로졸을 제조하였다(표 9).In the preparation example of the present invention, 15 to 30% by weight of citron hydrosol, 15 to 30% by weight of green plum hydrosol, 15 to 30% by weight of rose hydrosol, 15 to 30% by weight of rose geranium hydrosol, and 15 to 30% by weight of lavender hydrosol. A mixed hydrosol for citron serum was prepared by mixing 15 to 30 wt% of rosemary hydrosol (Table 9).
(증류 추출물)Aroma complex hydrosol
(distilled extract)
[제조예 4] 향장 원료 제형 제조[Preparation Example 4] Preparation of cosmetic raw material formulation
유자 세럼의 기반이 되는 향장 원료의 제형을 3단계로 나누어서 평가하였다.1차적으로 유자 추출물 첨가량별 제형의 유화성을 평가하였고, 평가결과로 선발된 1차 제형의 유자 추출물 첨가량 범위 내에서 2차적으로 히알루론산나트륨(Na Hyaluronate)을 첨가하여 안정화 정도를 평가하였다. 이 후, 2차 평가결과로 선발된 2차 제형에서 3차적으로 한방농축액을 첨가하여 최종 안정화 정도 및 사용감을 평가하였다.The formulation of the cosmetic raw material that forms the basis of the citron serum was evaluated in three stages. First, the emulsibility of the formulation was evaluated for each amount of citron extract added, and secondarily, within the range of the amount of citron extract added in the primary formulation selected as a result of the evaluation, The degree of stabilization was evaluated by adding sodium hyaluronate. Afterwards, the herbal medicine concentrate was added a third time to the secondary formulation selected as a result of the secondary evaluation, and the final degree of stabilization and feeling of use were evaluated.
1. 향장 원료의 1차 제형의 유화성 평가1. Evaluation of emulsibility of primary formulation of cosmetic raw materials
유자 추출물 첨가량별 향장 원료 1차 제형의 유화성을 평가하였다. 하기 표 10의 성분 1 내지 9를 혼합하여 1차 제형을 제조하였으며, 성분 2 내지 8함량은 동일하나, 성분 1과 성분 9의 함량을 조절하여 제형을 제조한 후 유화성을 평가하였다. 수치는 중량%를 나타내는 것이다.The emulsibility of the primary formulation of cosmetic raw materials was evaluated for each amount of citron extract added. The first formulation was prepared by mixing components 1 to 9 of Table 10 below. The contents of components 2 to 8 were the same, but the contents of component 1 and component 9 were adjusted to prepare the formulation, and then the emulsibility was evaluated. The numbers represent weight percent.
1One
2Formulation example
2
3Formulation example
3
4Formulation example
4
5Formulation example
5
하이드로졸hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
표 10을 살펴보면, 제형예 1은 유화가 잘 되었지만, 나머지 제형예 2 내지 5는 유자 추출물의 침전이 생겼음을 확인할 수 있다. 따라서 2차 제형 안정화 평가를 위한 기준으로 제형예 1을 선발하였다.Looking at Table 10, it can be seen that Formulation Example 1 was emulsified well, but in Formulation Examples 2 to 5, precipitation of the citron extract occurred. Therefore, Formulation Example 1 was selected as a standard for evaluating the stabilization of the secondary formulation.
2. 향장 원료의 2차 제형의 안정화 평가2. Stabilization evaluation of secondary formulation of cosmetic ingredients
상기 표 10의 결과로부터 선발된 제형예 1을 기준으로 히알루론산나트륨(Na Hyaluronate)을 첨가한 2차 향장 원료 제형을 제조한 후, 안정화를 평가하였다.A secondary cosmetic raw material formulation containing sodium hyaluronate (Na Hyaluronate) was prepared based on Formulation Example 1 selected from the results in Table 10, and then stabilization was evaluated.
하기 표 11의 성분 1 내지 10을 혼합하여 2차 제형을 제조하였으며, 성분 2 내지 8함량은 동일하나, 성분 1, 성분 9 및 성분 10의 함량을 조절하여 제형을 제조한 후 안정성을 평가하였다. 수치는 중량%를 나타내는 것이다.A secondary formulation was prepared by mixing components 1 to 10 of Table 11 below, and the contents of components 2 to 8 were the same, but the contents of component 1, component 9, and component 10 were adjusted to prepare a formulation and then evaluated for stability. The numbers represent weight percent.
하이드로졸hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
추출물extract
(0.02%)(0.02%)
(3%)(3%)
(1%)(One%)
(2%)(2%)
표 11을 살펴보면, 제형예 1 및 히알루론산나트륨 0.05중량%를 포함한 제형예 6은 침전이 생기지 않았다. 반면 제형예 7 및 제형예 8은 침전이 생겼음을 확인할 수 있다. 따라서 3차 제형 안정화 평가를 위한 기준으로 제형예 6을 선발하였다.Looking at Table 11, Formulation Example 1 and Formulation Example 6 containing 0.05% by weight of sodium hyaluronate did not produce precipitation. On the other hand, it can be confirmed that precipitation occurred in Formulation Example 7 and Formulation Example 8. Therefore, Formulation Example 6 was selected as a standard for evaluating the stability of the third formulation.
3. 향장 원료의 3차 제형 안정화 평가3. Evaluation of tertiary formulation stabilization of cosmetic raw materials
상기 표 11의 결과로부터 선발된 제형예 6을 기준으로 표 1의 한방농축액(Herbal Preservative)을 첨가한 3차 향장 원료 제형을 제조한 후, 안정화를 평가하였다.Based on Formulation Example 6 selected from the results in Table 11 above, a tertiary cosmetic raw material formulation containing the herbal concentrate (Herbal Preservative) in Table 1 was prepared, and then stabilization was evaluated.
하기 표 12의 성분 1 내지 11을 혼합하여 3차 제형을 제조하였으며, 성분 2 내지 8함량은 동일하나, 성분 1, 성분 9 내지 11의 함량을 조절하여 제형을 제조한 후 안정성을 평가하였다. 수치는 중량%를 나타내는 것이다.A third formulation was prepared by mixing components 1 to 11 of Table 12 below. The contents of components 2 to 8 were the same, but the contents of component 1 and components 9 to 11 were adjusted to prepare a formulation and then evaluated for stability. The numbers represent weight percent.
하이드로졸hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
(유자향)Fragrance
(yujahyang)
(표 8)(Table 8)
(무처리)(untreated)
최종적으로 세럼 제형 제조를 위한 향장 원료 제형으로 제형예 11을 선발하였다. 한방농축액을 처리하지 않은(무처리) 제형예 6과 비교하여 사용감 관능평가를 수행하여 그 결과를 표 13에 나타내었다.Finally, Formulation Example 11 was selected as a cosmetic raw material formulation for manufacturing a serum formulation. Sensory evaluation of feeling of use was performed in comparison with Formulation Example 6, which was not treated with herbal medicine concentrate (untreated), and the results are shown in Table 13.
표 13을 살펴보면, 제형예 6은 현탁도가 발생하고, 발림성 저하 현상이 생기며, 아로마 및 보존성 저하된다는 평가가 있었으나, 최종적으로 선발한 제형예 11은 적당한 흡수성과 유연성을 나타내고, 탄력감이 향상되었다고 평가되었다.Looking at Table 13, Formulation Example 6 was evaluated to have a degree of suspension, a decrease in spreadability, and a decrease in aroma and preservability, but Formulation Example 11, which was finally selected, was evaluated to show appropriate absorbency and flexibility and improve elasticity. It has been done.
[실험예 1] 세럼 1차 제형에 대한 관능평가[Experimental Example 1] Sensory evaluation of serum primary formulation
하기 표 14와 같이 유자 추출물 첨가물을 0~20중량% 범위 내에서 비율을 상이하게 배합하여 세럼 1차 제형을 제조하였고, 이에 대한 관능평가를 수행하였다. 관능평가 결과는 표 15에 나타내었다.As shown in Table 14 below, the primary serum formulation was prepared by mixing citron extract additives in different proportions within the range of 0 to 20% by weight, and sensory evaluation was performed. The sensory evaluation results are shown in Table 15.
구분process
division
유자 추출물 첨가율
(중량%)About the total weight of the composition
Yuzu extract addition rate
(weight%)
(0)Formulation example 13
(0)
(5)Formulation example 14
(5)
(10)Formulation example 15
(10)
(15)Formulation example 16
(15)
(20)Formulation example 17
(20)
하이드로졸aroma complex
hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)Aroma complex Hydrosol
(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
(Betaine)Betaine
(Betaine)
(유자향)Fragrance
(yujahyang)
(Xanthan Gum)xanthan gum
(Xanthan Gum)
(표 8)Herbal Preservative
(Table 8)
(0)Formulation example 13
(0)
(5)Formulation example 14
(5)
(10)Formulation example 15
(10)
(15)Formulation example 16
(15)
(20)Formulation example 17
(20)
상기 표 15를 살펴보면, 제형예 13 내지 17 모두 제형 평가에서 부적합하다는 평가를 받았다. 이에 유자 추출물의 함량을 낮추어 세럼 2차 제형을 제조하였다.Looking at Table 15 above, formulation examples 13 to 17 were all evaluated as unsuitable in the formulation evaluation. Accordingly, a secondary serum formulation was prepared by lowering the content of citron extract.
[실험예 2] 세럼 2차 제형에 대한 관능평가[Experimental Example 2] Sensory evaluation of serum secondary formulation
하기 표 16과 같이 유자 추출물 첨가물을 0~20중량% 범위 내에서 비율을 상이하게 배합하여 세럼 2차 제형을 제조하였고, 이에 대한 관능평가를 수행하였다. 관능평가 결과는 표 17에 나타내었다.As shown in Table 16 below, a secondary serum formulation was prepared by mixing citron extract additives in different proportions within the range of 0 to 20% by weight, and sensory evaluation was performed. The sensory evaluation results are shown in Table 17.
구분process
division
유자 추출물 첨가율
(중량%)About the total weight of the composition
Yuzu extract addition rate
(weight%)
(0)Formulation Example 13
(0)
(0.1)(0.1)
(0.2)Formulation example 19
(0.2)
(0.3)Formulation example 20
(0.3)
하이드로졸aroma complex
hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)Aroma complex Hydrosol
(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
(Betaine)Betaine
(Betaine)
(유자향)Fragrance
(yujahyang)
(Xanthan Gum)xanthan gum
(Xanthan Gum)
(표 8)Herbal Preservative
(Table 8)
(0)Formulation example 13
(0)
(0.1)(0.1)
(0.2)Formulation example 19
(0.2)
(0.3)Formulation example 20
(0.3)
(비닐향)이남 General dosage form
(Vinyl scent) Lee Nam
허브향과 감귤향Herbal and citrus scent
다소강한 감귤향Mild herbal scent
Slightly strong citrus scent
상기 표 17을 살펴보면, 유자 추출물을 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 18이 향취특성도 우수하고, 제형색상도 투명하여 최종적으로 적합하다고 평가되었다. 이에 제형예 18을 세럼 2차 제형으로 선발하였다.Looking at Table 17 above, Formulation Example 18, in which 0.1% of citron extract was added, was ultimately evaluated as suitable because it had excellent fragrance characteristics and the formulation color was transparent. Accordingly, Formulation Example 18 was selected as the secondary serum formulation.
[실험예 3] 세럼 3차 제형 선발[Experimental Example 3] Selection of serum 3rd formulation
제형예 18을 기본으로 하면서, 하기 표 18과 같이 기능성 복합 천연정유의 배합비율을 상이하게 변경하여 세럼 3차 제형을 제조하였다. 기능성 복합정유는 네롤리, 로즈제라늄, 자스민 및 로즈마리 정유를 혼합하여 제조하였다. 구체적으로 네롤리 정유 0.5, 로즈제라늄 정유 0.5, 호호바 정유에 자스민 정유를 0.3% 혼합하여 제조한 자스민 정유 1, 로즈마리 정유 1을 혼합하여 기능성 복합정유를 제조하였다. 세럼 3차 제형에 대한 관능평가를 수행하였고, 그 결과를 표 19에 나타내었다.Based on Formulation Example 18, a tertiary serum formulation was prepared by changing the mixing ratio of the functional complex natural essential oil as shown in Table 18 below. Functional complex essential oil was prepared by mixing neroli, rose geranium, jasmine, and rosemary essential oils. Specifically, functional complex essential oil was prepared by mixing 0.5 neroli essential oil, 0.5 rose geranium essential oil, 1 jasmine essential oil prepared by mixing 0.3% jasmine essential oil with jojoba essential oil, and 1 rosemary essential oil. Sensory evaluation was performed on the third serum formulation, and the results are shown in Table 19.
구분process
division
(중량%)Addition ratio of functional complex essential oil to main raw material
(weight%)
(0)Formulation Example 18
(0)
(0.1)(0.1)
(0.2)Formulation example 22
(0.2)
(0.3)Formulation example 23
(0.3)
하이드로졸aroma complex
hydrosol
(유자, 청매실, 장미꽃, 로즈제라늄, 라벤더, 로즈마리)Aroma complex Hydrosol
(Citron, green plum, rose flower, rose geranium, lavender, rosemary)
(Betaine)Betaine
(Betaine)
(유자향)Fragrance
(yujahyang)
(Xanthan Gum)xanthan gum
(Xanthan Gum)
(표 8)Herbal Preservative
(Table 8)
(중량%)Addition ratio of functional complex essential oil to main raw material
(weight%)
(0)Formulation Example 19
(0)
(0.1)(0.1)
(0.2)Formulation example 22
(0.2)
(0.3)Formulation example 23
(0.3)
상기 표 19를 살펴보면, 기능성 복합정유를 0.1% 첨가한 제형예 21이 꽃향이 섞인 감귤향과 허브향을 골고루 나타내며, 피부잔향도 꽃향이 섞인 은은한 감귤허브향을 나타내어 최종적으로 가장 적합하다고 평가되었으며, 이를 기반으로 유자세럼 시제품을 제작하였다(도 2).Looking at Table 19 above, Formulation Example 21, in which 0.1% of functional complex essential oil was added, exhibited both a citrus scent mixed with a floral scent and a herbal scent, and the skin lingering scent also showed a subtle citrus herb scent mixed with a floral scent, so it was ultimately evaluated as the most suitable, Based on this, a prototype citron serum was produced (Figure 2).
Claims (9)
유자 하이드로졸, 청매실 하이드로졸, 장미꽃 하이드로졸, 로즈제라늄 하이드로졸, 라벤더 하이드로졸 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 포함하는 아로마 복합 하이드로졸; 및
참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물을 포함하는 복합 한방농축액을 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물.Citron extracts including citron oleoresin, citron distilled extract oil, and citron hydrosol;
Aromatic complex hydrosols including citron hydrosol, green plum hydrosol, rose flower hydrosol, rose geranium hydrosol, lavender hydrosol and rosemary hydrosol; and
A cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect, comprising a complex herbal concentrate containing extracts of angelica root, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate extract.
(b) 유자 하이드로졸, 청매실 하이드로졸, 장미꽃 하이드로졸, 로즈제라늄 하이드로졸, 라벤더 하이드로졸 및 로즈마리 하이드로졸을 혼합하여 아로마 복합 하이드로졸을 제조하는 단계;
(c) 참당귀, 어성초, 감초, 녹차, 작약꽃, 토천궁, 황기, 황금 및 석류 추출물에 글리세린 및 부틸렌글리콜을 첨가하여 한방농축액을 제조하는 단계; 및
(d) 상기 유자추출물, 상기 아로마 복합 하이드로졸 및 상기 한방농축액을 혼합하는 단계를 포함하는, 아로마테라피 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물의 제조방법.(a) preparing a citron extract containing citron oleoresin, citron distillation extract oil, and citron hydrosol;
(b) preparing an aroma complex hydrosol by mixing citron hydrosol, green plum hydrosol, rose flower hydrosol, rose geranium hydrosol, lavender hydrosol, and rosemary hydrosol;
(c) preparing an herbal concentrate by adding glycerin and butylene glycol to extracts of Angelica gigasia, Houttuynia cordata, licorice, green tea, peony flower, Tocheongung, astragalus, goldenrod, and pomegranate; and
(d) A method for producing a cosmetic composition with an aromatherapy effect, comprising mixing the citron extract, the aroma complex hydrosol, and the herbal concentrate.
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