KR102014998B1

KR102014998B1 - Low viscous cosmetic composition using a natural emulsifying agent

Info

Publication number: KR102014998B1
Application number: KR1020120113746A
Authority: KR
Inventors: 백병열; 장희경; 이명렬; 나용주; 권이경; 김영소; 한상훈
Original assignee: (주)아모레퍼시픽
Priority date: 2012-10-12
Filing date: 2012-10-12
Publication date: 2019-08-27
Also published as: KR20140047443A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic composition using a natural emulsifier, and more particularly, to a low-viscosity formulation while using a naturally-derived saccharide-based surfactant instead of a chemical surfactant. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that provides a feeling of use and that the formulation is stable and effective for enhancing skin luster.

Description

Low viscous cosmetic composition using a natural emulsifying agent

The present invention relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic composition using a natural emulsifier, and more particularly, to a low-viscosity formulation while using a naturally-derived saccharide-based surfactant instead of a synthetic surfactant. The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition that provides a feeling of use, is stable in formulation, and is effective for enhancing skin luster.

Conventionally, various emulsified cosmetics such as creams and lotions have been used to protect the skin and maintain a healthy state. These emulsion-type cosmetics should be able to fully exhibit the effect of the oil-soluble ingredients contained, and should have a good feeling, and excellent storage stability from the customer's opening until the last use.

Recently, a cosmetic composition made of a natural derived component is preferred due to increased awareness of skin safety of customers, but a natural-derived surfactant tends to have a lower emulsifying power than a synthetic surfactant. On the other hand, low viscosity oil-in-water formulations are lightly applied to the skin to provide a light and quick absorption, and has the advantage of increasing the gloss on the skin as compared to solubilized low viscosity formulations. However, low viscosity formulations are difficult to achieve stability, and it is more difficult to implement low viscosity formulations with naturally derived surfactants having low emulsifying power. Therefore, the production of a stable low viscosity oil-in-water cosmetic composition utilizing a naturally derived surfactant was a problem in the cosmetic industry.

One method of making stable low viscosity oil-in-water cosmetic compositions is to prepare nanoemulsions. Typically, by preparing nanoemulsions, the particle size is minimized so as to enter the Brownian motion region which is not affected by gravity, thereby achieving stability of the formulation. A typical method for preparing such a nanoemulsion is a high pressure emulsification method. However, this high pressure emulsification method has the disadvantage that additional energy consumption occurs because a high pressure emulsifier must be used while preparing a nanoemulsion by applying a physically strong force, and as a result of recent studies on the harmfulness of nano cosmetics, the human body Considering the safety aspects, it is not suitable as a method for producing a cosmetic composition to enhance skin safety.

In addition, in order to prepare a stable oil-in-water cosmetic composition with a combination of natural emulsifiers with low emulsification power, it is a challenge to find a combination of surfactants that can ensure the long-term stability as possible, it is very difficult to find such a combination, together It is also important to find the appropriate area of the oil soluble component content to be blended.

Domestic Patent Publication No. 2010-0059279

Accordingly, the present inventors have tried to find a combination of natural-derived surfactants suitable for implementing a low viscosity oil-in-water cosmetic composition, and revealed the interaction between the naturally-derived saccharide surfactant and the natural oil-soluble component, thereby lowering the viscosity of the cosmetic composition. It has been found that it can maintain the best stability and improve skin safety.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that is safe for the skin using a naturally derived surfactant and can provide a low viscosity oil-in-water formulation to improve skin gloss while increasing skin absorption.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a mixture of a saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and a saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion; And it provides a cosmetic composition comprising a natural oil-soluble component.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention has a low irritation to the skin by using a naturally-derived surfactant and a natural oil-soluble component, and is low in viscosity and stable in formulation, and it is lighter in use and more effective in improving the luster on the skin with ease of skin absorption. . In addition, by using a component having a whitening effect together, it is possible to provide a better whitening and gloss improvement effect on the skin.

The present invention provides a low viscosity cosmetic composition containing a naturally-derived surfactant and a natural oil-soluble component, and particularly provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a low viscosity oil-in-water emulsion that improves long-term stability of the formulation while improving skin safety by using a naturally occurring saccharide-based surfactant and a natural oil-soluble component instead of a synthetic surfactant, while improving the luster on the skin. It can also provide good whitening efficacy.

Oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention has a low viscosity of 1,000 ~ 4,000cps. This is not preferable because less than 1,000 cps does not secure stability, and if it is more than 4,000 cps, it is not applied to the skin thinly.

The present invention uses a mixture of a natural saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic number and a natural saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion in order to increase emulsification while using a naturally-derived surfactant. When the saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion are blended in a proportion, oil particles can be effectively packed into the interface membrane to stabilize the oil-in-water formulation. In this case, since the hydrophilic portion of the interfacial membrane made of a saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion is densely packed with a saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion, the formulation can be stabilized.

In the present invention, the surfactant having a small size of the hydrophilic part among the naturally occurring saccharide-based surfactants is composed of monosaccharides or disaccharides such as sucrose and glucoside, and has a relatively small molecule size of sucrose fatty acid ester and cetearyl. At least one selected from the group consisting of glucoside, arachidylglucoside, C12-20 alkylglucoside and the like can be used. In addition, the surfactant having a large size of the hydrophilic portion is a group of polysaccharides or monosaccharides such as inulin, and the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate and inulin lauryl carbamate having a relatively large molecule size. At least one can be used. Most preferably a mixture of C12-20 alkylglucosides and inulin lauryl carbamate may be used.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a mixture of naturally occurring saccharide-based surfactants in an amount of 0.20% to 1.50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content is less than 0.20% by weight, the emulsion stability is low, the contents can be separated, if the content exceeds 1.50% by weight is not preferable because the problem of viscosity exceeds 4,000cps. In addition, the natural saccharide surfactant having a large hydrophilic part and the natural saccharide surfactant having a small hydrophilic part are 0.4 to 2.5 by weight ratio of the natural saccharide surfactant having a small hydrophilic part when the content of the natural saccharide surfactant having a large hydrophilic part is 1. It is desirable to be in the ratio of. If this ratio is out of the emulsion stability is low, the contents can be separated.

The natural-derived oil-soluble component used in the present invention includes a solid phase component including a surfactant, a fat, a wax, a higher alcohol, a higher fatty acid and a hydrocarbon having a melting point of 30 ° C. or more and a solid state at room temperature; Or at least one selected from liquid phase components including oils, esters, and hydrocarbons.

Specifically, the solid phase component may be, for example, sucrose fatty acid ester, cetearyl glucoside, inulin lauryl carbamate, C12-20 alkylglucoside, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, lauryl glucoside, Surfactants such as hydrogenity lecithin, lecithin, caprylyl / capryl glucoside; Fats such as shea butter, mango seed butter and cacao seed butter; Waxes such as myristyl myristate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, jojoba, sunflower seed, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and beeswax; Higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol; Higher fatty acids such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid; And hydrocarbons such as ceresin; And liquid phase components, for example, oils such as meadowfoam seed oil, sunflower seed oil, macadamia seed oil, green tea seed oil, coconut oil, olive oil and camellia oil; Esters such as phytosteryl / octyldodecylauroyl glutamate, isostearyl isostearate, methylheptyl isostearate, dicaprylylcarbonate and isopropyl palmitate; Ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; And hydrocarbons such as squalane.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the oil-soluble component in an amount of 5% by weight to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In this case, "content of the useful component" means the total amount of the oil-soluble component which does not include the surfactant as an emulsifier. If the content is less than 5% by weight, it may not be effective as an emulsified cosmetic, and if it is more than 15% by weight, it is not preferable because it is difficult to secure the stability of the formulation.

In addition, the present invention may use an additional whitening effect component to increase the skin shine increase effect, and provide a whitening effect, in the present invention, at least one selected from the group consisting of green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract and niacinamide It can be used additionally. These whitening efficacy ingredients effectively act to reduce melanin pigment, and have a synergistic effect on the whitening efficacy to provide a better whitening effect.

Among the whitening efficacy ingredients used in the present invention, green tea polysaccharide is separated by hot water extraction, ultrafiltration, and ethanol precipitation in green tea powder, which inhibits the production of melanin, MMP-1 expression, and increases skin moisturizing effect. Indicates. In addition, the mushroom-derived yeast extract is separated from the truffles by enzymatic hydrolysis and heat treatment to remove skin wastes by enhancing the activity of LC3 protein and lysosomes involved in autophagy in keratinocytes of the skin epidermis do. Finally, niacinamide is a vitamin B3 component that inhibits the migration of melanin produced in the skin to the skin surface, which helps to inhibit pigmentation and improves skin tone. In particular, the green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract and niacinamide used in the present invention are preferable to use together because they act on each step of skin whitening and show a synergistic effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain green tea polysaccharide and mushroom-derived yeast extract in an amount of 0.01% to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content is less than 0.01% by weight, it is not preferable because the content is small and whitening efficacy is exceeded, and if the content is more than 5.0% by weight, skin irritation may be caused. On the other hand, niacinamide may be contained in an amount of 2% by weight, which is a commonly used efficacy content.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain an appropriate amount of auxiliary components such as pigments, flavors, preservatives and thickeners commonly used in the preparation of oil-in-water cosmetics, preferably 0 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition It may contain in an amount of%.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation, but considering the low viscosity characteristics, basic cosmetic composition such as softening longevity, nourishing longevity, gel, lotion; Cosmetic compositions for hair such as wool, such as hair tonics, hair essences or hair treatments; It can be widely applied to other medicines and quasi-drugs.

Hereinafter, the content of the present invention will be described in more detail through examples and test examples. These examples are provided only for understanding the contents of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples, and modifications, substitutions, and insertions commonly known in the art may be performed. This is also included in the scope of the present invention.

[Reference Example] Preparation of Examples and Comparative Examples

The oil-in-water emulsions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were prepared according to the following preparation methods with the compositions shown in Table 1 below (unit: wt%).

1) The raw materials 9 to 17 of Table 1 are mixed at 70 ° C. to prepare water parts.

2) Dissolve the raw materials 1 to 8 of Table 1 in a separate container at 70 ℃ to prepare an oil part.

3) Add the oil part of step 2) to the water part of step 1) and mix by stirring with a homomixer.

4) Put the raw material 18-19, raw material 20-21 to the mixture of 3) and stirred with a homomixer and cooled to 50 ℃.

5) Put the raw materials 22 ~ 28 to the mixture of 4), stirred with a homomixer, degassed and cooled to 30 ℃ to prepare a cosmetic composition.

Test Example 1 Variation of Viscosity and Stability According to Combination of Naturally Derived Sugar-Based Surfactant and Contents of Soluble Components

Viscosity and stability in the preparation of each oil-in-water emulsion according to the combination and content change of the surfactant (Comparative Examples 1-4) and the content change of the oil-soluble component (Comparative Examples 5-6) in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-6 Change was observed. At this time, the viscosity measurement was measured at 12rpm with Spindle No. 3 using a Brookfield Viscometer LVDV-II. The measurement results are shown in Table 3 below.

Test substance Viscosity (cps) Stability Feeling Example 1 1,630 Good Thinning Comparative Example 1 240 Next day 60 ℃ lightness Comparative Example 2 870 7 days 60 ℃ separation lightness Comparative Example 3 865 Next day 60 ℃ lightness Comparative Example 4 2,350 Good Heavy and grappled Comparative Example 5 1,100 Good Lack of flexibility Comparative Example 6 2,120 30 ℃ separation immediately after manufacture Too oily

※ Good: Normally, it means 4 weeks stability at -10 ℃, 5 ℃, 30 ℃, 37 ℃, 45 ℃, 60 ℃, and cycle thermostat.

In the results of Table 3, the oil-in-water emulsion of Example 1 having a combination and content of the naturally occurring saccharide-based surfactant according to the present invention and the content of the oil-soluble component is thinner with a formulation stability at a viscosity of 4,000 cps or less. It can be confirmed that the spreading feeling is secured. On the other hand, when the content of the naturally occurring saccharide surfactant is less than 0.20% by weight (Comparative Example 1), the viscosity is too low and the high temperature is separated the next day to ensure the formulation stability, if contained in more than 1.50% by weight (Comparative Example 4) The stability can be secured, but the viscosity is too high, so it does not spread thinly, but a crushing phenomenon occurs. In addition, even when either of the saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion is not present or a combination is not appropriate (Comparative Examples 2 to 3), high temperature separation may not ensure formulation stability. Finally, when the oil-soluble component is contained in less than 5% by weight (Comparative Example 5), there is a lack of softness, and when it contains more than 15% by weight (Comparative Example 6), the phenomenon of separation at room temperature due to emulsification is not good. Occurred.

[Test Example 2] Measurement results of skin melanin index according to the content of whitening active ingredient

In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of the cosmetic compositions of Examples 2 to 5, the skin was allowed to use an emulsion prepared for 31 healthy female subjects aged 25 to 35 years with facial hyperpigmentation of grade 3 or more based on SOP criteria for 8 weeks. Brightness and melanin index were measured. Specifically, 31 people were divided into two groups of 15 and 16 people, and two compositions per group were used. Melanin index was measured three times the melanin index of hyperpigmentation site and non-pigmentation site using Mexameter at 8 weeks before and after using the product. . The results are shown in Table 4 below.

Indices Measurement area Measurement result Example One Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Melanin index
% Improvement Hyperpigmentation site -0.07 -3.21 -4.68 -4.13 -7.34 Non-pigmentation site -0.03 -3.01 -3.45 -3.14 -5.84

In the results of Table 4, when the green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract and niacinamide is not contained (Example 1), the melanin index is not improved after 8 weeks, but niacinamide is included (Example 2). ) Shows an improvement in melanin index, and when niacinamide and green tea polysaccharide or niacinamide and mushroom-derived yeast extract are included (Examples 3 and 4), an excellent melanin index improvement effect can be seen. In addition, in the case of including a total of three niacinamide, green tea polysaccharide and niacinamide (Example 2) it can be seen that the melanin index is significantly reduced due to the synergistic effect.

Claims

A mixture of a saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and a saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion; And natural oil soluble ingredients,
The saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion is inulin lauryl carbamate,
The saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion is at least one selected from the group consisting of sucrose fatty acid ester, cetearylglucoside, arachidylglucoside and C12-20 alkylglucoside,
The natural oil-soluble component has a melting point of 30 ℃ or more and a solid phase component including a surfactant, fat, wax, higher alcohol, higher fatty acid and hydrocarbon in a solid state at room temperature; And at least one selected from liquid phase components including oils, esters, and hydrocarbons, wherein the surfactants are ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, lauryl glucoside, hydrogenetidrecithin, lecithin and caprylyl / At least one oil-in-water cosmetic composition selected from the group consisting of capryl glucoside.

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The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 1,000 to 4,000 cps.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic portion further comprises polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as a saccharide-based surfactant.

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The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion are used in a ratio of 1: 0.4 to 2.5 by weight.

The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the mixture of the saccharide-based surfactant having a large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a small hydrophilic portion is contained in an amount of 0.20% to 1.50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

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The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the natural oil-soluble component is contained in an amount of 5 wt% to 15 wt% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further contains at least one selected from the group consisting of green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract, and niacinamide.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the green tea polysaccharide or mushroom-derived yeast extract is contained in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 5.0 wt%, respectively, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the niacinamide is contained in an amount of 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, and 9 to 12, wherein the composition is for improving skin luster.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein the composition is for skin whitening.