KR20220068226A - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing makeup comprising succinic acid for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, treating skin disorders and preventing, treating and combating hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides for use in the field of dermatology and/or cosmetics, preferably for removing and/or cleansing makeup from keratinous substances, preferably for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections and for treating skin disorders such as acne and , to a composition for use on the skin, scalp and hair to combat the hyper-seborrheic condition of the scalp.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing makeup comprising succinic acid for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, treating skin disorders and preventing, treating and combating hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing makeup comprising succinic acid for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, treating skin disorders and preventing, treating and combating hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp

The present invention provides preferentially keratinous substances, preferentially to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections and to treat skin disorders such as acne and to prevent, treat and combat hyper-seborrheic conditions of the scalp. It relates to a composition for use in dermatology and/or cosmetics for cleansing the skin, scalp and hair, ie for their hygiene, and/or for removing makeup therefrom.

skin disorders

Seborrhea is a biological condition and hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratinization are biological skin disorders, all three leading to the appearance of skin defects.

Seborrhea and excessive seborrhea are related to sebum secretion. The normal biological function of the skin requires the secretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands located in the dermis. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and body hair. These membranes serve a protective function by protecting the skin from drying out, lubricating the hair, and promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms, which is referred to as seborrhea. Excessive secretion of sebum can lead to the appearance of skin defects, which is referred to as hyperseborrhea. Skin imperfections due to seborrhea are oily skin, or even greasy and shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture and redness.

Hyperkeratosis is also a biological disorder that causes skin defects. It is usually triggered by androgen hormones and consists of increased keratinocyte synthesis. Skin defects due to hyperkeratosis are loss of complexion radiance, and dull skin.

In addition to the previously mentioned skin defects, hyperkeratosis and hyperkeratosis, either independently or together, can simultaneously lead to disorders such as acne. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous follicle that occurs in most adolescents and adults. The disease varies in its symptoms and severity. A common feature is sebum retention that is clinically reflected in certain underlying lesions.

Hyperkeratosis and seborrhea, together or individually, clog pores, the pores of the skin. These blockages may appear through the appearance of a skin disorder known as "comedon", an open condition also referred to as "blackheads" when sebum turns black due to oxidation when exposed to air, and the sebum is no longer exposed to air. If it does not (ie the blockage is due to hyperkeratosis), it is a closed condition, also referred to as a “whitehead”.

In these comedones, the proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp ., in particular Propionobacterium acnes , induces an inflammatory response, leading to discomfort and redness to the touch. Bacterial growth can lead to superficial inflammatory lesions (papules and papules) and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules).

Thus, acne is a disease of the pilosebaceous sac that involves four closely related factors: hyperkeratosis, hyperkeratosis, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes, and inflammation.

Daily hygiene and makeup removal contribute to combating the appearance of skin disorders and imperfections. Good hygiene may be sufficient to alleviate or even eradicate the phenomenon.

Skin imperfections can be due to poor makeup removal, i.e., cleansing that is not suitable for your skin type.

scalp and hair disorders

The scalp, like the rest of the skin tissue, is a continuously regenerating epidermis containing the hair follicles and sebaceous glands that together form the sebaceous glands.

The sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which is drained into the sebaceous gland. Sebum secretion is a normal phenomenon and is useful for skin and hair. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and body hair. These membranes act as antibacterial by protecting the skin from drying out, lubricating the hair, and promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms. Therefore, the sebum protects the scalp and lubricates it to provide shine to the hair.

Oily hair is mainly due to increased sebum secretion by the sebaceous glands in the scalp. This phenomenon, referred to as excessive seborrhea, is associated with unpleasant sensations, discomfort, aesthetic disturbances and even skin disorders.

Excessive seborrhea of the scalp results in the appearance of oily hair and its aesthetic disadvantages. Hair is limp, dull, lacks volume, and usually has a greasy appearance, especially at the root. Excess sebum accumulates in the hair root, giving it a “oily” appearance. Because sebum traps the dust present in the air and the dust easily adheres to the hair, the hair clumps together, making it flabby and flat, often looking dirty or actually dirty.

Excessive seborrhea can lead to the aforementioned aesthetic disturbances, and discomfort, but can also lead to skin disorders that may be reflected by seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin disease (or dermatosis) characterized by the appearance of red plaques covered with white or yellow scales on oily areas of the scalp, occurring preferentially in seborrheic skin. These lesions develop into flare-ups.

Sebum present in these areas results in the abnormal proliferation of yeasts of the Malassezia type that are naturally present on the skin. These microorganisms cause specific inflammatory responses reflected by erythema (skin redness) and accelerated regeneration of cells of the scalp and skin, leading to anomalous desquamation.

It is a benign, non-communicable, but chronic disease that develops into recurrent flare-ups. Due to the visible nature of the lesion, seborrheic dermatitis has a knock-on effect on quality of life.

Gojiru can lead to seborrheic alopecia or androgenetic alopecia, i.e. hair loss. The cause of this is in particular the hyperactivity of the 5α-reductase enzyme, which leads to accelerated regeneration of the hair follicles. The anagen phase (anagenesis) is shortened, while the telogen phase is prolonged. The hair becomes finer and less pigmented until peachy hair is obtained. Moreover, the presence of excess sebum surrounds the hair up to the bulb, which chokes the hair and causes it to lose its vitality, leading to rapid hair loss.

In the prior art, various solutions have been proposed for removing and cleansing makeup from skin suffering from defects and skin disorders; Such compositions generally include an abrasive or astringent. In fact, for removing and cleansing makeup, a sebum secretion regulating action, a sebum “purifying”-absorbing action and an astringent action are sought.

Various solutions have also been proposed to reduce excessive sebum secretion in the scalp. Compositions comprising an abrasive or astringent have been used. In fact, in order to solve the problems of seborrhea and excessive seborrhea, sebum secretion regulating action, sebum "purifying"-absorption action and astringent action are pursued.

In practice, however, these products, due to their accumulation, frequency of use, and their composition, are often too aggressive and take away the natural protection afforded by sebum. These products induce a rebound effect by stimulating the sebaceous glands to increase sebum production.

Document WO 2015 /106175 describes succinic acid as having a bactericidal effect on Propionobacterium species. The keratolytic effect of succinic acid is also known to the extent that it is believed to have an "exfoliating" effect on the skin.

technical problem

The first technical problem addressed by the present application is cosmetic or dermatological use for cleansing and hygiene to cleanse the skin, remove impurities from the skin and exfoliate imperfections, without causing aggressive or reactive hyperseborrhea to provide a composition.

The second technical problem solved by the present application is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing hair and scalp, which does not cause a repulsive effect of sebum production by sebaceous gland stimulation, thereby reducing the production of sebum after cleansing will do

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing keratinous substances, preferentially makeup from the skin, ie for its hygiene, which in a physiologically acceptable medium, from 2 to at least one organic acid selected from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain of 10 carbon atoms, preferentially 3 to 5 carbon atoms, most preferentially 4 carbon atoms.

The present invention also relates to a method for removing and/or cleansing makeup from a keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying to said keratinous material, in particular the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for removing and/or cleansing makeup from skin having skin defects or skin disorders, such as acne.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition according to the present invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections such as oily skin, oily skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, dull skin it's about

The present invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the present invention for the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

Another subject of the present invention is the present invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic overseborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as oily hair, saggy, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair, and difficult to style hair. It is a cosmetic non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the present invention for use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is a linear or branched dicar having a carbon chain consisting of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferentially 3 to 5 carbon atoms and most preferentially 4 carbon atoms, in a physiologically acceptable medium. A cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing makeup from keratinous material comprising at least one organic acid selected from acids.

succinic acid

According to one embodiment, the organic acid is succinic acid. According to another embodiment, succinic acid is in the form of a salt, in particular a sodium salt, such as a monosodium or disodium salt.

by Roquette)(등록상표) SA 130"가 언급될 것이다.Succinic acid (or butanedioic acid) is an organic acid with two carboxyl groups, with the semi-structure COOH-CH2-CH2-COOH. If present, such acids can be produced by biotechnological processes known to those skilled in the art. For example, "Biosuccinium(R)" sold by Reverdia or "Bote by Roquette (R)" sold by Roquette.

by Roquette) (registered trademark) SA 130" will be mentioned.

According to one embodiment, the amount of succinic acid ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. as present in the composition according to the present invention.

According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, better still from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Succinic acid advantageously has a bactericidal function, in particular against gram-positive bacteria, such as Propionobacterium spp., in particular Propionobacterium acnes.

In a complementary manner, succinic acid may also be a mechanical skin exfoliant referred to as a “scrub” when in solid crystalline form; or a chemical skin exfoliant when in dissolved form.

sebum absorbent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one sebum absorbent.

Sebum absorbents are solid or porous, hydrophobic or amphiphilic solid particles that have the ability to absorb sebum by virtue of their hydrophobic affinity and/or by entrapment within the pores of the particles. The sebum retained on or entrapped in the particles may then be removed by any actuation that allows the particles to be removed. Similarly, sebum oxidation or decomposition products are also absorbed by the sebum absorbent. Sebum absorbents make it possible to purify and mattify the skin.

Also advantageously, the sebum absorbent imparts a pleasant "velvety" feel to the skin.

Typically, the sebum absorbent is a sebum absorbent of at least one plant origin selected from natural or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, natural or modified granular starch, natural or modified cyclodextrin, dextrin and maltodextrin, and/or clay and silica and sebum absorbents of at least one mineral origin, such as salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Among the starches, mention will be made of corn starch, such as the product Botte by Roquette ST 005 (INCI: Zea (mays) starch) sold by Roquet.

Typically, the modified granular starch may also be a modified starch, such as octenylsuccinylated starch. Mention will be made, for example, of the product Botte by Rocket(R) ST 012 (INCI: aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) sold by Rocket. Advantageously, the product Botte by Rocket(R) ST 012 can absorb sebum and also impart a "velvety feel" to the composition according to the invention. Mention may also be made among the modified starches of the product Botte by Rocket(R) ST 118 (INCI: sodium carboxymethyl starch) sold by Rocket.

As for microcrystalline cellulose as sebum absorbent, mention will be made, for example, of the product Microcel™ 100 (INCI: microcrystalline cellulose) sold by Rocket.

Mixtures of cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose & Cellulose Gum), such as the products Tabulose(R) SC 591 and Tabulose(R) SC 611, both sold by Rocket, are also may be mentioned.

Typically, among sebum absorbents of mineral origin, kaolin (INCI: kaolin), rhassoul (INCI: Moroccan Lava Clay), green clay (INCI: illite) , montmorillonite, silica (INCI: silica), and also mica.

Among the sebum absorbents of plant origin, for example, activated carbon will be mentioned.

For cyclodextrins, either the product Botte by Rocket(R) CD 102 (INCI: cyclodextrin) sold by Rocket or Kleptose(R) 10 (INCI: beta-cyclodextrin) sold by Rocket ) will be mentioned.

According to one embodiment, the sebum absorbent is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, preferably The content of the sebum absorbent is approximately 3 wt% to 20 wt%, ideally 4 wt% to 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

monocarboxylic acid

According to one variant, the cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for a keratinous substance is a linear or at least one monocarboxylic acid selected from branched monocarboxylic acids, or a salt thereof. Citric acid and its salts, gluconic acid, its lactones and salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycolic acid and its salts, glucuronic acid and its salts, maltobionic acid and its salts, lactobionic acid and its salts, malic acid and its salts , tartaric acid and its salts, mandelic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, benzoic acid and its salts, fatty acids having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms (or carboxylic acids containing an aliphatic chain) and salts thereof, preferably Natural fatty acids such as butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid will be mentioned, among others. Salts of these monocarboxylic acids are preferably sodium salts.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition has, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a carbon chain of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferentially 3 to 8 carbon atoms, most preferentially 6 carbon atoms at least one monocarboxylic acid selected from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, or a salt thereof.

Preferentially, the monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid. According to one alternative, the monocarboxylic acid is a fatty acid having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms or a salt of such a fatty acid.

The gluconic acid is preferentially present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another variant, the monocarboxylic acid is a cyclic form of gluconic acid, referred to as gluconolactone.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of succinic acid and gluconic acid, with increased bactericidal activity against Propionobacterium acnes.

dosage form

The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. "Physiologically acceptable medium" or "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" does not exhibit harmful side effects and is not particularly acceptable for users of cosmetic or dermatological products, including unacceptable redness, inflammation, burning sensation, It is understood to mean a medium that does not produce tightness or tingling. Thus, the medium is compatible with human keratinous material.

Typically, the keratinous material will be skin, mucous membranes, scalp or hair, hair system, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails, preferentially skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution, a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, obtained by dispersing the fatty phase in the aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O) an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of phosphorus, milk type, or a suspension or emulsion of a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or aqueous or dry gel type, anhydrous compositions, solid compositions of microemulsions, It may be any dosage form used in this cosmetic field normally used for topical application, such as microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of the ionic and/or nonionic type.

Such compositions are prepared by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, ie a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) or multiple ( W/O/W or O/W/O) can be in the form of an emulsion

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

A water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. Such emulsions contain an oily continuous phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Such emulsions comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. Such emulsions comprise an aqueous continuous phase.

Among the dosage forms in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or microemulsions suitable for removing and/or cleansing keratinous substances, preferentially makeup from the skin, are cleansing creams, mousses, milks, facial cleansers in the form of milk, scrubs, scrubs. This will be mentioned

Among the dosage forms suitable for cleansing the scalp and/or hair, in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or microemulsions, mention will be made of the following dosage forms for "rinse-off" application: shampoo , hair conditioner, hair mask, serum, mousse, balm, cream, spray, after-shampoo, detangling agent, hair cream.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous single-phase solution or an aqueous-alcoholic single-phase solution, or in the form of a solid composition.

An aqueous single-phase solution is understood to mean a composition comprising an aqueous continuous phase comprising water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

An aqueous alcoholic single-phase solution is understood to mean a composition comprising an aqueous-alcoholic continuous phase comprising at least one alcohol and, according to one embodiment, several alcohols that are miscible with one another or are water-miscible.

A solid single-phase composition is intended to mean a composition consisting of one or more solid phases which are heterogeneously or homogeneously, preferentially homogeneously mixed with one another.

Among aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or solid single-phase compositions suitable for removing and/or cleansing keratinous substances, preferentially makeup from the skin, include shower gels, facial cleansers in the form of lotions, lotions, micellar water, scrubs, Mention will be made of dry soaps, cleansing bars, liquid cleansers, powders to be added to bathtubs or powders such as foaming bath powder or effervescent bath powder, shower creams, sprays.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition according to this not only cleanses the skin on the one hand, but also skin such as oily skin, oily skin, oily skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, dull skin It makes it possible to form a facial cleanser to prevent, reduce or eliminate imperfections.

Among the dosage forms in the form of aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic, or solid single-phase compositions suitable for cleansing keratin materials, preferentially the scalp and hair, mention will be made of liquid shampoos, lotions, gels, rinse-off products, dry shampoos.

Mercury

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

According to one embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 75% by weight of water, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 40% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. to 35% by weight of water.

According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably 60 to 95% by weight, preferably 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. to 85% by weight of water.

According to one embodiment, the microemulsion according to the present invention comprises 40 to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition comprises 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably 60 to 95% by weight, preferably 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 80 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. % of water.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous-alcoholic single-phase composition comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60 to 95% by weight, preferably from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 85% by weight of water.

The composition may include at least one water-soluble solvent in the aqueous phase.

"Aqueous solvent" is used to denote a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and is water-miscible (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent used in the composition according to the invention may be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C ₃ -C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or propanediol (or 1,2-monopropylene glycol). The latter are preferably of natural origin or obtained by fermentation or biotechnological processes, such as the product Zemea® sold by DUPONT and the product Tillamar® PDO sold by DSM. It is TILAMAR® PDO with NØØVISTA.

Typically, the monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

wetting agent

The emulsions according to the invention may also comprise at least one wetting agent. Wetting agents may be selected from polyols and/or esters of fatty acids with polyethylene glycol.

"Polyol" is intended to mean any molecule having at least two free hydroxy (-OH) groups in its structure. These polyols are preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.).

Typically, the polyol will be selected from maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin, maltodextrin, glucose syrup and mixtures thereof. .

By way of example, the products sold especially by Rocket PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol), Botte by Rocket® PO 160 (INCI: Sorbitol), Boteve by Rocket® PO 260 ( INCI: Mannitol), Botte by Rocket(R) PO 370 (INCI: Xylitol), Botte by Rocket(R) PO 500 (INCI: Isosorbide), Glycerin sold by COOPER (INCI: Glycerin) ), propylene glycol from Cooper (INCI: propylene glycol), butylene glycol (INCI: 1,3-butanediol).

Among the esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol, under the name Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) from LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. The products sold will be mentioned.

The composition comprises from 0.5 to 25% by weight of polyol, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 2 to 6% by weight of polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

meteor

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" is a liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and, when introduced into water at 25° C. in an amount of at least 1% by weight, is not soluble in water at all, or is the weight of the oil introduced into the water. It is understood to mean a compound soluble in less than 10% by weight relative to the

According to one embodiment, the oil will be selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils that provide an emollient effect to the skin.

"Non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the keratinous material for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and particularly has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Among the non-volatile oils, fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate Late, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl Succinate, diisostearyl malate, triacetin, tricaprine, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco caprate and caprylate mixture, benzoates of C12 to C15 alcohols, glycol esters, e.g. For example butylene glycol cocoate, glyceryl triisostearate, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, higher fats Alcohols such as oleic alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil , rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof, vegetable butters such as shea butter, camellia butter.

These non-volatile oils may also be hydrocarbon or silicone type oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petroleum jelly, dimethyl siloxane and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI: vitis vinifera seed oil) )), macadamia nut oil (INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), coco caprate and caprylic Late mixtures such as the product Miglyol Coco 810 (INCI: coco-caprylate/caprate), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum indicum seed oil).

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. present in quantity.

The liquid fatty phase may also include volatile oils. Volatile oils are intended to mean oils that can evaporate from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils may be selected from, for example, silicone oils or short chain fatty acid triglycerides to reduce oily feel.

According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. exist.

The fatty phase or oily phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent, for example a wax and/or a paste-like compound.

wax

"Wax" is intended to mean a fatty material having a reversible liquid-solid state change, which is liquid under the conditions of manufacture of the composition, and has a melting point greater than 30° C. and generally less than 90° C. having an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or non-polar waxes or mixtures of the two. "Non-polar" is intended to mean a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and/or phosphorus atoms, and in particular hydrocarbons.

The polar wax may be selected from animal waxes containing polar groups such as esters, vegetable waxes, and synthetic or silicone waxes. Therefore, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (Cera alba), Chinese insect wax (Ericerus pela), Japan wax, water vein wax ( sumac wax), montan wax, triesters of C8-C20 acids with glycerin, such as glyceryl tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearate, especially those sold under the trade name CETACENE by VEVY and these mixtures may be mentioned. These waxes can be used in pre-dispersed form in oil, as in particular in the case of mixtures of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.

According to one embodiment, the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

paste-like compound

"Paste-like compounds" are lipophilic, which differ from waxes in that they can undergo reversible liquid-solid state changes like waxes and have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, but contain a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23°C. is understood to mean fatty substances.

According to one embodiment, the paste-like compound is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

gelling agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.

A gelling agent is intended to mean a compound that, in the presence of a solvent, forms a three-dimensional network that anchors the solvent by creating rather strong intramolecular bonds.

The gelling agent is selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents.

According to one embodiment, when the composition is an aqueous single-phase composition or an aqueous-alcoholic single-phase composition, the composition comprises at least one selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents. Contains a gelling agent.

The gelling agent makes it possible to impart a viscosity to the continuous phase, ie to adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to values ranging from 100 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s.

The organic gelling agent may be selected from polymers of synthetic or plant origin, preferably of plant origin, chemically modified or not chemically modified. Accordingly, the organogelling agent may be selected from the group consisting of plant-derived gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, tragacanth gum, konjac gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, guar gum or derivatives thereof; algae-derived gums such as alginates and carrageenans; Gums derived from microbial fermentation, such as xanthan, for example by the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by CP KELCO or by JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL Ag Products sold xanthan gum FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum), mannan, scleroglucan or derivatives thereof; cellulose and its derivatives, such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starches and derivatives thereof, such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinylated or hydroxypropylated starches; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid or carbomers, and mixtures thereof.

Among the carbomers, mention will be made, for example, of Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: Carbomer) or Carbopol ETD 2050 polymer (INCI: Carbomer) from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. .

mixtures of gum arabic and xanthan gum, such as the product Solagum AX sold by SEPPIC (INCI: Acacia Senegal gum (and) xanthan gum), a mixture of starch and cellulose or gum derivatives; Mention will also be made of, for example, the product Botte by Rocket(R) DS 112 (INCI: starch acetate (and) hydroxyethylcellulose (and) xanthan gum) sold by Rocket.

The mineral gelling agent may be selected from magnesium and/or aluminum silicates. An example of such a mineral gelling agent is Veegum(R) Pure from Vanderbilt Minerals LLC, magnesium aluminum silicate.

binder

According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a binder.

The solid composition according to the invention preferentially comprises at least one binder.

"Binder" is intended to mean a compound that imparts increased cohesiveness to a cosmetic composition. This cohesiveness can be adjusted based on the amount and chemical affinity of the binder for the components of the cosmetic composition.

Typically, the binder will be selected from caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as the products Labrafac CC (INCI: capric/caprylic triglyceride) or cetyl dimethicone (INCI). will be.

The binder will be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the binder will also have emollient properties.

emulsifier

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers.

Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers, HLB greater than or equal to 8, sorbitan esters (optionally polyethoxylated), glycerol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters or polyesters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ethers, alkyl polyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithins, fatty alcohols, sorbitan esters (this list is non-limiting), and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, the product Montanov 68 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside) sold by Cepic, the product Montanov L (INCI: C14-C22 alcohol & C12-) sold by Cepic 20 alkyl glucoside), Montanov 202 (INCI: arachidisyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside), Citrol GMS 40 sold by CRODA (INCI: glyceryl) Stearate), or the product Imwitor 960K (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) sold by BIESTERFELD, the product Imwitor 372P (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Sheet) sold by Biesterfeld rate), the product Glucate SS (INCI: methyl glucose sesquistearate) sold by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., flurol stearique sold by Croda ( polyglyceryl-6 distearate), Natragem E145 (INCI: polyglyceryl-4 laurate/succinate (and) aqua), the product Span sold by SIGMA ALDRICH 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate) will be mentioned.

Among the sorbitan esters, mention will be made, for example, of product span 20.

Among the fatty alcohols, mention will be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20).

)에 의해 명칭 보테 바이 로케트(등록상표) DS 146으로 판매되는 유화 시스템으로부터 선택될 수 있다.The W/O emulsifier is advantageously an emulsifying system consisting of cyclodextrin and a natural water-in-oil emulsifier, for example Roquette

) by the emulsification system sold under the name Botte by Roquette(R) DS 146.

Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers have an HLB of less than 8 and include non-ethoxylated polyol fatty esters, in particular non-ethoxylated fatty esters of glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, sorbitan, anhydrohexitol, for example especially emulsifiers selected from isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin and hydrolyzed starch.

fat phase thickener

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase thickener, ie a lipophilic or amphiphilic thickener selected from fatty alcohols.

A lipophilic or amphiphilic thickener is intended to mean a molecule or macromolecule capable of increasing the viscosity of an oil without substantially changing the physical or chemical properties of the oil.

Among the fatty alcohols, mention will be made of Lanette 16 (INCI: cetyl alcohol), Lanette O (INCI: cetearyl alcohol).

Surfactants

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from ionic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. These surfactants are selected for their detergent and foaming functions.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactant is preferably from a carboxylic acid anionic surfactant, a sulfate-based anionic surfactant, a sulfonate surfactant, a phosphate anionic surfactant, and mixtures thereof, preferably a sulfonate anionic surfactant, a carboxylic acid anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

"Anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only an anionic group as an ionic or ionizable group. As used herein, an entity can be ionized to provide a negatively charged entity if it has at least one permanent negative charge, or under the conditions of use of the composition of the present invention (eg, environment, pH), and any If it does not also contain a cationic charge, it is said to be "anionic". "Sulphate-based anionic surfactants" include at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ⁻ ) and optionally one or more other functional groups derived from an acid, such as a carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group. (-COOH or -COO ^- ), a sulfonate functional group (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) and/or an anionic surfactant which may further comprise a phosphate functional group. By way of example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and also salts of these compounds are sulfate-based anionic surfactants. The alkyl group of these compounds mentioned by way of example contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group represents a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds, mentioned by way of example, may be polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and may contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. “Non-sulphate-based anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant that does not fall within the definition of “sulphate-based anionic surfactant” as defined above.

Furthermore, according to the invention, it is also intended that:

- the carboxylic acid anionic surfactant comprises at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO ^- ), but also a sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) , does not contain a sulfate functional group (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- );

- the sulfonate anionic surfactant comprises at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO ₃ H or -So ₃ ^- ) and optionally at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ^- ) and/or a phosphate functional group, but not a sulfate functional group (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ⁻ ).

- phosphate anionic surfactants contain at least one phosphoric acid or phosphate functional group (-OPO ₃ H ₂ or -OPO ₃ ^2- ), but also a carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO ^- ), It contains neither phonic acid or sulfonate functionality (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) nor sulfate functionality (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

In other words,

- for the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise stated, at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ), and at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ) Anionic surfactants comprising: are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants;

- for the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise stated, at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ), and at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants;

- for the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise stated, at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ), and at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate function (-COOH or Anionic surfactants comprising -COO ^- ) are considered to be non-sulfate based anionic surfactants; For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise stated, at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ), and at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) , and anionic surfactants comprising at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO ^- ) are considered to be sulfate-based anionic surfactants.

Carboxylic acid anionic surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates; Acyl glutamate, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid, alkyl ether carboxylic acid, alkyl(aryl) ether carboxylic acid, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid, and salts of these compounds. The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 28, more preferentially from 10 to 24, even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Aryl groups preferably represent phenyl or benzyl groups. These compounds may be polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and may preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. It is also possible to use monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside citrate, C6-C24-alkylpolyglycoside tartate, and salts thereof. .

According to one embodiment, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactant is selected from:

- acyl glutamate, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl glutamate, such as stearoyl glutamate, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate, or cocoyl glutamate, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;

- acyl sarcosinates, especially C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as cocoyl sarcosinate and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate and especially sodium lauroyl sarcosinate nate, palmitoyl sarcosinate, and especially sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;

- acyl lactylates, especially C12-C28, or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylate, and especially sodium behenoyl lactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylate, and especially sodium (iso)stearate loyl lactylate;

- C6-C24, especially C12-C20 acyl glycinates, such as cocoyl glycinate and especially sodium cocoyl glycinate;

- (C6-C30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, especially (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids;

- (C6-C30)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;

- (C6-C30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids;

- and mixtures thereof; and especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolamine salts.

Sulfonate anionic surfactants include the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates nates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulforaurates; and salts of these compounds; The alkyl group of these compounds has 6 to 30 carbon atoms; In particular comprising 12 to 28, even more preferably 14 to 24, or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group, these compounds being polyoxyalkenylated, in particular polyoxy It may be ethylenated and may preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

According to one embodiment, the sulfonate anionic surfactant is selected from: C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinates; C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinate; (C6-C24)acyl isethionate, preferably (C12-C18)acyl isethionate; alpha-olefin sulfonates; and mixtures thereof; and especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolamine salts.

According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is a monoester of C6-C24 alkyl and polyglycoside-dicarboxylic acids, such as alkyl glucoside citrate, alkyl polyglycoside tartrate and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate, alkyl sulfosuccinate. It may be selected from poxuccinamate, acyl isethionate and N-acyl taurate, preferably the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds contains from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Another group of anionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention is the group of acyl lactylates, the acyl groups of which contain from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In addition, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, and also polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl) (C6-C24 aryl) Mention may be made of ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkenylated (C6-C24 alkyl)amido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

Phosphate anionic surfactants include C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl phosphates; C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; and mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be selected from secondary or tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and has at least one anionic group, for example carboxyl It is a linear or branched chain comprising late, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate groups. Also, (C8-C20)alkyl betaines such as coco betaine; sulfo betaine, (C8-C20)alkyl sulfo betaine; (C8-C20)alkylamido (C3-C8)alkyl betaines, for example cocamidopropyl betaine; or (C8-C20)alkylamido (C6-C8)alkyl sulfo betaines.

film former

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one film former.

Film formers are polymers of natural origin or derivatives of natural products, such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), or synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), and/or polyols other than plasticizers such as polyethylene glycol, triethyl citrate, polysorbates, or other waxes such as carnauba wax or hydrogenated castor oil.

Hydroxypropylated pea starch, Botte by Rocket(R) ST 720 will also be mentioned as a film former.

dyes

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises water-soluble or oil-soluble dyes, pigmenting and/or opacifying and/or keratinizing substances of the composition, fillers which preferentially have a pigmenting effect on the skin, for example pigments, nacres, lakes. ) (a water-soluble dye adsorbed on an inert mineral support) and at least one dye selected from mixtures thereof may be further included. These dyes are optionally hydrophobic agents such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate/silicon mixed copolymers, The surface can be treated with lecithin, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate, phytic acid.

"Pigments" are intended to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles intended to color and/or opacify cosmetic compositions.

Among the pigments, mention will be made of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic pigments. Examples of pigments are in particular iron, titanium or zinc oxides, and also complex pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, this list being non-limiting.

Among the pigments surface-treated with lecithin, the product UNIPURE WHITE LC981 HLC (INCI: CI 77891 (and) hydrogenated lecithin, UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 HLC from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) (INCI: CI 77492 (and) hydrogenated lecithin), UNIPURE BLACK LC989 HLC (INCI: CI 77499 (and) hydrogenated lecithin, UNIPURE RED) LC381HLC (INCI: CI 77491 (and) hydrogenated lecithin) ) will be mentioned.

Among the pigments surface-treated with phytic acid, the products Unipure White LC 985 PHY (INCI: CI 77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide) from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, Unipure Yellow LC 188 PHY (INCI: CI) 77492 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), Unipure Red LC 388 PHY (INCI: CI 77491 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), Unipure Black LC 998 PHY (INCI: CI 77499 (and)) Phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide) will be mentioned.

By "nacreous layer" it is intended to mean any iridescent or non-iridescent colored particle having a color effect by optical interference.

Among the nacres, mention will be made of titanium mica coated with a metal oxide such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.

According to one embodiment, the makeup and/or care composition according to the invention comprises at least some colored particles, preferentially pigments such as iron oxide pigments and/or nacres.

filler

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further contain at least one filler. The term is intended to mean particles of any form, inorganic or organic, insoluble in the composition, in particular spherical or lamellar. Examples of fillers are talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamide, silicone resin, silicone elastomer powder and acrylic polymer powder, in particular powder of poly(methyl methacrylate) or powder of styrene acrylate copolymer (from Dow). of Sunsphere Powders).

sensory

The sensory agent makes it possible to alter the sensory profile of the cosmetic or dermatological composition to be more pleasant to the user. The sensory agent may be selected from a modified starch such as carboxymethyl starch, for example Botte by Rocket ST 118 from Rocket, silica, or talc, or mixtures thereof. These sensory agents provide a soft feel to the solid composition, or a cushioning effect to the composition in liquid or gel form.

conditioning agent

The conditioning agent may be selected from cationic polymers such as polyquaternium.

active ingredient

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetically active ingredient.

As a cosmetic active ingredient, or a cosmetically active ingredient or cosmetically active substance, an anti-acne agent, a sebum control agent, an antibacterial agent, an antifungal agent, a keratolytic agent, a keratin regulator, an astringent, an anti-inflammatory agent, an anti-irritant, an antioxidant, an anti- Free radicals, healing agents, anti-aging agents, humectants, emollients, tensing agents, bleaching agents, mattifying agents, antifouling agents, microcirculation-stimulants, laxatives, tonicity agents, vitamins, minerals, Mention will be made to ingredients or substances intended to cleanse or purify the skin, such as surfactants that will be selected from those that do not have an irritating effect on sebumogenesis.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetically active ingredient having emollient activity, such as an emollient.

As an emollient, by way of example glyceryl stearate (INCI name), ODM (INCI: octyldodecyl myristate), the products Lipocire A (INCI: C10-18 triglyceride), by INOLEX Products sold Lexfeel NS (INCI: diheptyl succinate (and) capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer), products sold by GATTEFOSSE Labrapac CC (INCI: capric acid) /caprylic acid triglyceride), coconut oil esters such as the product Tegosoft AC (INCI: isoamyl cocoate) sold by EVONIK, from STEARINERIE DUBOIS Product DUB VCl 10 (INCI: isodecyl neopentanoate), Cetiol OE (INCI: dicaprylyl ether), Product Mango butter (INCI: Mangifera Indica) (Mango) ) seed butter) will be mentioned.

Among the vitamins, mention will be made of tocopherols, for example the product Covi-ox(R) T-70 C (INCI: tocopherol) sold by BASF, which can be used as antioxidant. .

The humectant will be selected from humectants, film formers, occlusive agents and lyotropic agents.

Among the film-forming agents, besides the film-forming agents described above, mention will be made of collagen, elastin, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid.

Among the sealants, mention will be made of petrolatum, paraffin, liquid petrolatum, wheat germ oil, shea butter, beeswax.

Among the lyotropic agents, mention will be made in particular of lanolin and its derivatives, ceramides, essential fatty acids.

According to a preferred embodiment, the humectant is a humectant as described above or a humectant selected from ethoxylated compounds, preferentially sorbitol. Mention will be made of the products sold by Rocket, Botte by Rocket(R) PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol) and Botte by Rocket(R) PO 160 (INCI: Sorbitol).

Among the ethoxylated compounds, mention will be made of products based on glucose, methyl alcohol and sugar derivatives, such as the product Glucam™ E-20 wetting agent sold by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one emollient and/or at least one sebum control agent and/or at least one other antibacterial agent.

Typically, the cosmetically active ingredient is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. exists as

additive

Compositions according to the present invention may contain other ingredients provided they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other ingredients include, for example, scrubs or exfoliants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: sodium benzoate), such as the product Microcare NB sold by Thor, or benzoic acid or potassium sorbate ( INCI: potassium sorbate), such as the product Microcare KS also sold by Thor, or sorbic acid, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, sodium hydroxide or arginine, antimicrobial agents, fragrances, sunscreens, chelating agents and mixtures thereof have.

Among the sunscreens, for example, Solvaeil XT 300 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina), from CRODA, Merck Kagea EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: CI 77891 & alumina & simethicone) from (Merck KGaA) will be mentioned.

According to one embodiment, the emulsions, aqueous single-phase compositions, aqueous-alcoholic single-phase compositions and solid compositions according to the present invention will be prepared with “bio-based” ingredients. "Bio-based" means that the dry weight in terms of carbon atoms of renewable origin is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 80%, even better at least 90% by weight relative to the total dry weight of the carbon atoms of the component. It is meant to be an ingredient.

Emulsions, aqueous single-phase compositions, aqueous-alcoholic single-phase compositions and solid compositions according to the present invention may be prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

specific embodiment

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises water, a mixture of gluconic acid and succinic acid, and a sebum absorbent, a preservative such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof, a gelling agent such as a hydrophilic organic gelling agent; and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents, surfactants such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents , an aqueous single-phase composition consisting of, preferably consisting of, at least one other component selected from fragrances.

According to a first variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises:

- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 5 to 50% by weight of at least one surfactant, such as an anionic surfactant or an amphoteric surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- sebum absorbents, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof, gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other component selected from humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances,

The sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%.

According to a first variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises:

- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 4 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants;

- sebum absorbents, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof, gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, It consists of 0.1 to 10% by weight of 1 to 10 components selected from moisturizers, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances,

The sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion,

- water,

- 1 to 3 oils,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- 1 to 4 surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants, or zwitterionic surfactants,

- Consists of 1 to 10 components selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances, and preferentially.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion,

- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight of 1 to 3 oils, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- from 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 4 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances consists of, preferentially consists of, the constituents of the species,

The sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in solid single-phase form,

- water,

- at least one oil,

- at least one wax, or vegetable butter, or mixtures thereof;

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants;

- Consists of at least one other component selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises:

- less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 10 to 60% by weight of 1 to 3 oils, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or two waxes, or one or two vegetable butters, or mixtures thereof;

- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 6 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances consists of, preferentially consists of, the constituents of the species,

The sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in solid single-phase form,

- water,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants;

- Consists of at least one other component selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizers, humectants, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances;

The composition further comprises lauric acid, or stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises:

- less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 6 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances constituents of the species,

- consisting of 1 to 20% by weight of lauric acid relative to the total weight of the composition and 1 to 20% by weight of stearic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,

The sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%.

How to remove and/or cleanse makeup from dead skin cells

Another subject of the present invention is a method for removing and/or cleansing makeup from a keratinous material, in particular the skin, scalp hair, comprising the steps of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratinous material, in particular the skin, is done

According to one embodiment of the method of removing and/or cleansing makeup from keratinous material, said method comprises the additional final step of preferentially rinsing with water.

According to one embodiment of the method of removing and/or cleansing makeup from keratin materials, the method comprises:

- applying a cosmetic or dermatological composition;

- then leaving the cosmetic or dermatological composition on the keratinous material to which it has been applied for a period ranging from 5 seconds or 10 seconds to 2 minutes or 5 minutes or 10 minutes, or for a period necessary for the user to complete application. ,

- A "rinse-type application" comprising the step of first rinsing the keratinous material with water to then remove the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

The term “rinse-on application” means that, in contrast to “leave-on” applications, the composition of the present invention is intended to be used after or during application of the product, in which case the composition is ultimately rinsed or washed from the hair or skin. Used in this document to indicate used. A “persistent” product refers to a composition that is applied to the hair or skin and does not undergo a rinse step.

Cosmetic use to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections

Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections.

Skin defects are understood to be an aesthetic disadvantage and should be distinguished from pathological skin disorders. Among the skin defects, oily skin, oily skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, redness, itching, loss of radiance, dull skin will be mentioned.

Cosmetic use for removing and/or cleansing makeup

Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for removing and/or cleansing makeup from skin having skin imperfections or skin disorders, such as acne.

treatment of acne

The invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for use in treating skin disorders such as acne.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention to obtain a medicament intended for the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

The present invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of a skin disorder, such as acne, comprising administering to a patient in need thereof a composition according to the present invention.

Skin disorders such as acne should be distinguished from skin disorders that cause only aesthetic discomfort. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous sac that involves four closely related factors: hyperkeratosis, hyperkeratosis, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes, and inflammation.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to treat skin disorders due to hyperkeratosis and/or hyperkeratosis and/or proliferation and/or inflammation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium.

Therefore, there is a difference between the following two:

i) A cosmetic skin defect corresponding to oily skin characterized by the production or overproduction of sebum (seborrhea and hyperseborrhea), which gives the skin an oily and oily appearance.

The skin texture is thicker, and the pores are enlarged, giving the appearance of a dull complexion because the skin does not reflect light very well. Defects such as red spots and blackheads may occasionally appear. In the case of combination skin, the shine is mainly located in the central part of the face, commonly referred to as the T-zone: forehead, nose, and chin.

ii) Pathological skin disorders due to the presence and/or proliferation and/or inflammation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium species, preferentially Propionobacterium acnes, and/or hyperkeratosis and/or hyperkeratosis. Acne prone skin not only suffers from flaky skin, enlarged pores, but also leaves spots and blackheads, and flare-ups are more frequent.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms and, when applied to acne, are generally used, such as delaying the appearance of the disease, reducing the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilizing the disease, even if the probability of success is low. Represents a devised plan of action or procedure that must produce a beneficial effect.

Typically, in the case of acne, treatment is to delay the appearance, or reduce the severity, or even to skin disorders such as comedones and/or superficial inflammatory lesions papules and pimples) and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules) and/or Propionobacterium acnes. is understood as the loss of proliferation of

high oiliness of the scalp

Normal hair corresponds to hair that is soft to the touch, supple, easy to untangle and style, has a glossy appearance, and does not break. The scalp is also healthy without dandruff, irritation or redness. In this case, the sebaceous glands work normally, secreting a small amount of sebum to protect the scalp and lubricate the hair. However, the sebaceous glands may undergo internal imbalance or imbalance due to external attack, resulting in impaired sebum production. Seborrhea is a physiological phenomenon reflected by excessive sebum production. Excessive secretion of sebum not only spreads to the entire scalp, but also spreads along the hair shaft, making the hair oily and heavy. The amount of sebum present on the scalp can be measured by various devices known to those skilled in the art. Most are based on placing a translucent plate on the scalp to collect the sebum present, and then measuring the amount of light transmitted through the plate.

Cosmetic use to prevent, reduce, or eliminate the cosmetic overseborrheic condition of the scalp

The present invention relates to the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the present invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating a cosmetic hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp.

The cosmetically seborrheic state of the scalp is understood as oily hair and its aesthetic disadvantages. Mention will be made of saggy, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair, and hair that is difficult to style. This should be distinguished from the pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp.

Treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp

The invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for use in the treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended for the treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp.

The present invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp comprising administering to a patient in need thereof a composition according to the present invention.

Among the pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp, mention will be made of seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms, and when applied to seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia, delay the appearance of the disease, reduce the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilize the disease, even with a low probability of success. Refers to a devised plan of action or procedure that must result in an overall beneficial effect, such as

Typically, in the case of seborrheic dermatitis, treatment is understood as delayed appearance, reduction in severity, or even disappearance of red plaques covered with white or yellow scales on oily areas of the scalp, occurring in seborrheic skin.

Typically, in the case of seborrheic alopecia, treatment is understood to delay or reduce hair loss or even to eliminate hair loss.

Therefore, there is a difference between the following two:

i) A cosmetic overseborrheic condition of the scalp that is solely an aesthetic disturbance and is characterized by oily hair, saggy, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair, and hair that is difficult to style.

ii) Pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp, which may be seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Example

Example 1: shower gel

In this example, a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is prepared, and its composition is reproduced in Table 1 below in the form of a shower gel for cleansing.

[Table 1]

Prepare Phase A1 by mixing the ingredients of Phase A1 with stirring while heating at 80° C. for 40 minutes. While still stirring, add phase A2 to phase A1 maintaining 80°C. Separately, prepare phase B by mixing the ingredients of phase B with stirring at 80°C. Subsequently, phase B is added to phase A1+A2 with stirring at 80° C. for 10 minutes. The mixture is cooled to 25° C., then phase C and phase D are added. Finally, the pH is adjusted to a value of 4.6 or higher using the ingredients of phase E.

Example 2: Facial Cleanser

In this example, a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous single phase solution for removing and cleansing makeup is prepared. Its composition is shown in Table 2 below.

[Table 2]

Prepare Phase A by mixing the ingredients at 80° C. for 40 minutes, then cool the mixture to 25° C. and add Phase B. The pH is adjusted to a value of 4.6 or higher using gluconolactone and sodium hydroxide.

Example 3: Cleansing Cleanser

In this example, a skin cleansing and cleansing fluid gel is prepared.

[Table 3]

The entire preparation is carried out at ambient temperature. Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and sorbitol are mixed in water with gentle stirring. Carboxymethyl starch is added with gentle stirring until the starch is hydrated. Component B and component C are subsequently added successively and then wait until they are completely dissolved. Subsequent addition of component D successively, then waiting for complete dissolution. Subsequent addition of component E, then waiting for complete dissolution. Finally, component F, component G and component H are added.

Example 4: Shampoo

In this example, shampoo is prepared.

[Table 4]

Disperse and dissolve component B in phase A with stirring, then add component C and wait until a homogeneous dispersion is achieved. Subsequently, components D to I are added successively with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Adjust the pH to 4.6-4.8 with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

Example 5: Cleansing bar for body

In this example, three solid compositions are prepared for cleansing the body, referred to as “cleansing bars for the body.”

[Table 5]

Phase A is heated to 85-90° C., followed by homogenization for a short period of time. Then, it is cooled to 75-80° C. with stirring, and then components B to E are added successively with stirring. Transfer the mixture to a mold and allow to cool to ambient temperature.

[Table 6]

Phase A is heated to 85-90° C., followed by homogenization for a short period of time. Then, it is cooled to 75-80° C. with stirring, and then components B to E are added successively with stirring. Transfer the mixture to a mold and allow to cool to ambient temperature.

[Table 7]

Prepare phase B separately in a bowl with gentle stirring. Then add phase B to phase A and mix until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Components C through H are then added in succession and allowed to stand for sufficient time to provide a homogeneous dispersion. The resulting mixture is then placed in a bowl and left at ambient temperature for 24 hours. A "soap" bar with visible crystals of sodium coco-sulfate is obtained.

Example 6: Shower cleanser for face and body

In this example, four shower cleansers in various flowable forms are prepared: liquid, fluid gel, and thick gel.

[Table 8]

Magnesium aluminum silicate and xanthan gum are sequentially added to the water heated to 65° C. with shear stirring for complete dispersion. Agitation is maintained until complete hydration is achieved. The temperature is maintained at 65° C. and component B is added. It is then cooled to ambient temperature. Components C through F are then added in the order shown in Table 8, waiting for complete dispersion between each addition and avoiding entrainment of air. Finally, the pH is adjusted to 4.6-4.8 using concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[Table 9]

Add component B to phase A with stirring, then add component C and heat the mixture to 60°C. Subsequent cooling to ambient temperature and subsequent addition of D to I above with stirring.

[Table 10]

A thick gel cleanser was prepared using the ingredients in Table 10.

[Table 11]

A fluid gel cleanser was prepared using the ingredients in Table 11.

Example 7: Foaming Bath Powder

In this example, a foaming bath powder is prepared.

[Table 12]

Prepare foaming bath powder according to Table 12.

[Table 13]

Prepare foaming bath powder according to Table 13.

Example 8: Bath Powder

In this example, two "additive powder" for the bath and one "foaming powder" for the bath are prepared.

[Table 14]

Prepare a foaming bath powder according to Table 14.

[Table 15]

Prepare foaming bath powder according to Table 15.

[Table 16]

A foaming bath powder according to Table 16 was prepared.

Example 9: Cleansing Scrub for Face and Body

In this example, we prepare three cleansing gel scrubs for face and body.

[Table 17]

Prepare a fluid cleansing gel scrub according to Table 17.

[Table 18]

Prepare a fluid cleansing gel scrub according to Table 18.

[Table 19]

Prepare a fluid cleansing gel scrub according to Table 19.

Example 10: "in-shower" body cream or lotion

In this example, three lotions to be used in the shower, and one cream to be used in the shower, to rinse after use, are prepared.

[Table 20]

An “in-shower lotion” according to Table 20 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[Table 21]

An “in-shower lotion” according to Table 21 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[Table 22]

An “in-shower lotion” according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[Table 23]

"In-shower cream" according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

Example 11: Cleanser in solid form

In this example, a cleanser in solid form is prepared: a cleansing bar for hair and body, a cleansing bar containing activated charcoal, and a solid soap.

[Table 24]

Prepare a cleansing bar for hair and body according to Table 24.

[Table 25]

Combine the ingredients of phase A in a stirred bowl. It is heated to 80-85° C. while stirring. Maintain this temperature. Subsequently phase B is added. The ingredients of phase C are mixed separately and then this premix is added to the contents of the bowl. Subsequently, components D to G are added successively. When the mixture is well homogenized, the formulation is poured into a mold and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature. A solid bar is obtained.

[Table 26]

A solid soap was prepared according to Table 26.

Example 12: Cleansing Spray for the Body

In this example, an aqueous-alcoholic solution is prepared that can be used in a body spray, rinse after application.

[Table 27]

Prepare a two-phase spray according to Table 27.

[Table 28]

Prepare a single phase liquid spray according to Table 28.

Example 13: Solutions for Cleansing Wipes

In this example, a solution for impregnating a cleansing wipe is prepared.

[Table 29]

A solution capable of impregnating the cleansing wipes according to Table 29 was prepared.

Example 14: “Sulphate-Free” Washing Solution for Face and Body

[Table 30]

Prepare a sulfate-free wash solution according to Table 30.

Example 15: Hair and Body Cleanser

[Table 31]

Prepare a hair and body cleanser according to Table 31.

Claims (38)

A cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing and/or cleansing makeup from keratinous material, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium,
- succinic acid, and
- at least one monocarboxylic acid selected from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids having a carbon chain consisting of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferentially 3 to 8 carbon atoms, most preferentially 6 carbon atoms, or its A composition comprising a salt. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is selected from carboxylic acid anionic surfactants, sulfate-based anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants and phosphate anionic surfactants. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gluconic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The sebum absorbent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the sebum absorbent of at least one plant origin is selected from natural or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, natural or modified granular starch, natural or modified cyclodextrin, dextrin and maltodextrin. , and/or at least one sebum absorbent of mineral origin, such as clay and silica and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. 9 . The at least one gel according to claim 1 , selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents. A composition comprising a topical agent. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or in the form of a microemulsion. 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one emulsifier selected from oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifiers. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a cleansing cream, mousse, milk, facial cleanser, scrub. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition is a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, serum, mousse, balm, cream, spray, after-shampoo, detangling agent. (detangling agent), a composition in a dosage form for rinse-off application selected from hair cream. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or solid single-phase composition. 15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the composition is an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic single-phase composition and comprises at least one gelling agent selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents. Characterized in that, the composition. The composition of claim 15, wherein the composition is in the form of a cleansing gel such as shower gel, facial cleanser, lotion, or scrub. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a liquid shampoo, lotion, gel, rinse-type product. 15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the composition is a solid composition and comprises at least one binder. 19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a dry soap. 20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the solid composition is in the form of a dry shampoo. 21. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emollient and/or a sebum control agent and/or at least one other antibacterial agent. 22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, comprising preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; sensory agents; wetting agent; moisturizer; dyes; A composition further comprising at least one other component selected from a film-forming agent, an occlusive agent, a conditioning agent, and a fragrance. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises water, a mixture of gluconic acid and succinic acid, and a sebum absorbent, a preservative such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof, a gelling agent such as a hydrophilic organic gelling agent, and/or an amphiphilic agent. selected from solvent-based organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents, surfactants such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, fragrances A composition, characterized in that it is an aqueous single-phase composition composed of at least one other component that is According to claim 1, wherein the composition is
- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 5 to 50% by weight of at least one surfactant, such as an anionic surfactant or an amphoteric surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- sebum absorbents, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof, gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other component selected from moisturizers, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances, characterized in that the sum of weight percentages of all components is 100%, composition. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a microemulsion,
- water,
- 1 to 3 oils,
- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,
- 1 to 4 surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants, or zwitterionic surfactants,
- Sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, characterized in that it consists of 1 to 10 components selected from the group consisting of a fragrance, composition. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a microemulsion,
- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- from 0.5 to 5% by weight of 1 to 3 oils, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- from 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 4 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,
- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances It consists of the components of the species,
The composition of claim 1, wherein the sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is in solid single-phase form,
- water,
- at least one oil,
- at least one wax, or vegetable butter, or mixtures thereof;
- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,
- at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants;
- A composition comprising at least one other component selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances. 28. The method of claim 1 or 27, wherein the composition comprises
- less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 10 to 60% by weight of 1 to 3 oils, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or two waxes, or one or two vegetable butters, or mixtures thereof;
- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 6 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,
- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances It consists of the components of the species,
The composition of claim 1, wherein the sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is in solid single-phase form,
- water,
- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,
- at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants;
- Consists of at least one other component selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizers, humectants, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances;
A composition, characterized in that it further comprises lauric acid, or stearic acid, or a mixture thereof. 31. The method of claim 1 or 30, wherein the composition comprises
- less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 0.5 to 5% by weight of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- 5 to 50% by weight of 1 to 6 surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,
- from 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, selected from sebum absorbents, preservatives, gelling agents, sensitizing agents, wetting agents, emollients, humectants, dyes, film formers, sealants, conditioning agents, and fragrances constituents of the species,
- consisting of 1 to 20% by weight of lauric acid relative to the total weight of the composition and 1 to 20% by weight of stearic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,
The composition of claim 1, wherein the sum of the weight percentages of all components is 100%. 31. A method for removing and/or cleansing makeup from a keratinous material, in particular the skin, scalp or hair, comprising applying to said keratinous material, in particular the skin, scalp or hair, the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 30. A method comprising the step of applying. 32. The method according to claim 31, characterized in that it comprises the additional step of preferentially rinsing with water. 24. Claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 for removing makeup and/or cleansing from skin having skin imperfections. 32. A cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims to 30. To prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections such as oily skin, greasy skin, shiny skin, enlarged pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, and dull skin; 31. Cosmetic of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30. for non-therapeutic uses. 31. Any of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23-30 for treating a skin disorder such as acne. The composition for dermatology according to any one of claims. Claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20 or 23 for preventing, reducing or eliminating a cosmetic overseborrheic condition of the scalp. 32. A cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims to 30. 34. The cosmetic composition of claim 33, wherein the cosmetically over-seborrheic condition is oily hair, limp, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair, and difficult-to-styling hair. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use. Claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, for use in the treatment of a pathological hyperseborrheic condition of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia. The dermatological composition according to any one of claims 20 or 23 to 30.