WO2021053397A1

WO2021053397A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and/or removing make-up, comprising succinic acid for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections, treating skin disorders and preventing, treating and combating hyper-seborrheic conditions of the scalp.

Info

Publication number: WO2021053397A1
Application number: PCT/IB2020/000773
Authority: WO
Inventors: Géraldine LOUVET-POMMIER
Original assignee: Roquette Freres
Priority date: 2019-09-20
Filing date: 2020-09-18
Publication date: 2021-03-25
Also published as: CN114449994A; EP4031100A1; JP2022548757A; BR112022005201A2; KR20220068226A

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for use in the field of dermatology and/or cosmetics, preferably for cleansing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably for use on the skin, scalp and hair, for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections and treating skin disorders such as acne, and preventing, treating and combating hyper-seborrheic conditions of the scalp.

Description

Title: Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and / or make-up removal comprising succinic acid to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections, treat skin disorders and prevent, treat and fight against hyperseborrheic states of the scalp

Technical area

The invention relates to a composition, useful in dermatology and / or cosmetics, preferably for cleaning, in other words hygiene, and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the skin, the scalp and the skin. hair, making it possible to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections and to treat skin disorders such as acne, and make it possible to prevent, treat and combat hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

Prior art

[0002] Skin disorders

[0003] Seborrhea is a biological condition, and hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratinization are biological disorders of the skin, all three of which lead to the development of skin imperfections.

[0004] Seborrhea and hyperseborrhea relate to the secretion of sebum. Normal biological functioning of the skin requires the secretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands located in the dermis. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and hair. This film protects the skin against drying out, lubricates the hair, and has a protective role by promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms: we speak of seborrhea. The secretion of sebum can become excessive and cause the appearance of skin imperfections: we speak of hyper seborrhea. The skin imperfections resulting from seborrhea are oily skin, even shiny and shiny, enlarged pores, a thick skin texture, redness.

[0005] Hyperkeratinization is a biological disorder which also induces skin imperfections. Usually induced by androgenic hormones, it consists of an increase in the synthesis of horny cells. Skin imperfections resulting from hyperkeratinization are loss of radiance in the complexion, and dull skin.

[0006] In addition to the skin imperfections mentioned above, hyper seborrhea and hyperkeratinization can cause, independently or together simultaneously, pathologies such as acne. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous follicle that affects most adolescents and adults. The pathology is varied in its presentation and severity. The common element is the sebaceous retention which clinically results in specific elementary lesions.

[0007] Hyperkeratinization and hyperseborrhea, together or separately, cause obstruction of the hair follicles, i.e. the pores of the skin. This obstruction is visible by the appearance of skin disorders called "comedones", either open, also called "blackheads", when the sebum remains exposed to the air and darkens due to oxidation, or closed, also called " white spots ”, when the sebum is no longer exposed to the air (ie when the obstruction is due to hyperkeratinization).

In these comedones, the proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp., In particular Propionobacterium acnes, induces an inflammatory reaction causing redness and painful discomfort to the touch. Bacterial overgrowth can lead to superficial (papules and pustules) and deep (nodules) inflammatory lesions.

[0009] Thus, acne is a condition of the pilosebaceous follicle in which four factors intervene which are closely related: hyper seborrhea, hyperkeratinization, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes and inflammation.

[0010] Daily hygiene and make-up removal help to fight against the appearance of imperfections and skin disorders. Meticulous hygiene may be enough to reduce or even eradicate the phenomenon.

[0011] Skin imperfections can result from poor make-up removal: cleaning not suitable for the skin type.

[0012] Disorders of the scalp and hair

The scalp, like the rest of the skin tissue, is a continuously renewing epidermis comprising hair follicles and sebaceous glands, which together form the pilosebaceous follicle.

[0014] The sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which is poured into the pilosebaceous follicle. The secretion of sebum is a normal phenomenon and useful to the skin as to the hair. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and hair. This film protects the skin against drying out, lubricates the hair, and has a bactericidal role by promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms. Thus, the sebum will protect the scalp and ensure the shine of the hair by lubricating them.

Oily hair is mainly due to an increase in the secretion of sebum by the sebaceous gland in the scalp. Called "hyper seborrhea", this phenomenon is associated with discomfort, feelings of discomfort, aesthetic disorders, even skin pathology. [0016] Hyper seborrhea of the scalp leads to the appearance of oily hair and its aesthetic drawbacks. The hair is heavy, dull, lacks volume and has an overall shiny appearance, especially at the roots. The excess sebum accumulates on the roots which present an "oily" appearance. Heavy and flattened, hair is stranded and often looks dirty, or actually is, because the sebum traps the dust in the air that easily adhere to the hair.

[0017] Hyper seborrhea can cause the above-mentioned aesthetic disorders and feelings of discomfort, but also skin pathology which can result in seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

[0018] Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin disease (or dermatosis), characterized by the appearance of red plaques, covered with white or yellowish dandruff on the oily areas of the scalp, preferentially occurring on seborrheic skin. These lesions evolve in spurts.

The sebum present on these areas causes an abnormal proliferation of yeasts of the Malassezia type, naturally present on the skin. These microorganisms cause a specific inflammatory reaction, resulting in erythema (redness of the skin) and accelerated renewal of scalp and skin cells, causing unusual scaling.

[0020] This is a benign disease and not contagious, but chronic: it progresses by relapsing attacks. Because of the apparent nature of the lesions, seborrheic dermatitis has an impact on the quality of life.

[0021] Hyper seborrhea can lead to seborrheic alopecia or androgenetic alopecia, that is, hair loss. The cause is an overactivity of the 5α-reductase enzyme, which will lead in particular to an acceleration in the renewal of hair follicles. The growth phase (anagenesis) is shortened while the telogen phase is lengthened. The hair becomes finer and less colored, until a fluffy appearance is obtained. In addition, the presence of excess sebum will surround the hair shaft up to the bulb, which will suffocate and devitalize it, quickly causing it to fall.

In the state of the art, various solutions have been proposed for cleaning and removing make-up from skin affected by imperfections and skin disorders. These compositions generally comprise abrasive agents or astringent agents. Indeed, in order to remove make-up and cleanse, an action of regulating sebaceous secretion, a “purifying” action of absorption of sebum and an astringent action are sought. Various solutions have also been proposed for reducing the excessive secretion of sebum in the scalp. Compositions comprising abrasive agents or astringent agents have been used. Indeed, to try to solve the problem of seborrhea and hyper seborrhea, an action of regulating sebaceous secretion, a “purifying” action of absorption of sebum and an astringent action are sought.

[0024] However, these products, due to the accumulation, the frequency of use and their compositions are in reality often far too aggressive and remove the natural protection which is none other than the sebum. These products induce a rebound effect by stimulating the sebaceous gland and thus increasing the production of sebum.

[0025] Document WO 2015/106175 describes succinic acid as having a bactericidal effect on Propionobacterium spp. The keratolytic effect of succinic acid is also known, so that it is attributed a property of "peeling" the skin.

Technical problems

A first technical problem solved by the present application is the provision of a cosmetic or dermatological cleaning and hygiene composition to purify the skin, rid it of its impurities and erase imperfections without attacking it or inducing hyper reaction seborrhea.

[0027] A second technical problem solved by the present application is the provision of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleaning the hair and the scalp which does not induce a rebound effect in the production of sebum by excitation of the sebaceous gland, and thus reducing the production of sebum after cleansing.

Disclosure of the invention

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing, in other words hygiene, and / or make-up removal from keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least organic acid chosen from among linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

The invention also relates to a process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and / or removing make-up from skin having skin imperfections or skin disorders such as acne.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections such as oily skin, shiny skin, shiny skin, dilated pores, a thick skin texture, loss. radiance, dull skin.

[0032] The present invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for treating skin disorders such as acne.

A subject of the invention is also the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic hyper seborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as oily hair, heavy hair, dull hair. , shiny, dirty, sticky, difficult to comb.

The invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

detailed description

Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one organic acid chosen from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, including the carbon chain consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

[0036] Succinic acid

[0037] According to one embodiment, the organic acid is succinic acid. According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is in the form of a salt, in particular a sodium salt, such as monosodium or disodium.

Succinic acid (or butanedioic acid) is an organic acid with two carboxyl groups, of semi-structural formula COOH-CH2-CH2-COOH. This acid can now be produced by biotechnological processes known to those skilled in the art. Mention will be made, for example, of “Biosuccinium®” marketed by the company Reverdia, or “Beauté by Roquette® SA 130” marketed by Roquette.

According to one embodiment, the succinic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, and better still from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the succinic acid has a bactericidal function, in particular on Gram-positive bacteria such as those of the species Propionobacterium spp., In particular Propionobacterium acnes.

[0042] In a complementary manner, succinic acid can also be a mechanical exfoliating agent for the skin, called “scrubbing” or exfoliation, when it is in crystallized solid form; or a chemical exfoliating agent of the skin, when it is in dissolved form.

[0043] Sebum absorber

[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sebum absorber.

[0045] A sebum absorber is a solid, hydrophobic or amphiphilic, solid or porous particle having the capacity to absorb sebum by hydrophobic affinity and / or by trapping in the porosity of said particle. The sebum retained on, or trapped in, the particle can then be removed by any operation allowing the particle to be removed. Likewise, the products of sebum oxidation or degradation are also absorbed by the sebum absorber. The sebum absorber helps to purify and mattify the skin.

[0046] Also advantageously, the sebum-absorbing agent gives the skin a pleasant and "velvety" feel.

Typically, the sebum absorbing agent is chosen from sebum absorbers of plant origin chosen from native or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, native or modified granular starches, native or modified cyclodextrins, dextrins and maltodextrins, and / or at least one sebum absorber of mineral origin, such as clays and silicas and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Among the starches, mention will be made of corn starch, such as the product Beauté by Roquette® ST 005 (INCI: Zea (mays) starch), sold by the company ROQUETTE.

Typically, the modified granular starches may also be modified starches such as octenylsuccinilated starches. Mention will be made, for example, of the Beauté by Roquette® ST 012 product (INCI: Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) sold by the company ROQUETTE. Advantageously, the Beauté by Roquette® ST 012 product makes it possible on the one hand to absorb sebum but also to give the composition according to the invention a "velvet touch". Among the modified starches, there may also be mentioned the product Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 (INCI: sodium carboxymethyl starch), sold by the company ROQUETTE.

Mention will be made, for microcrystalline cellulose as sebum absorbing agent and by way of illustration, the product Microcel ™ 100 (INCI: Microcrystalline cellulose), sold by the company ROQUETTE.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose & Cellulose Gum) such as the products Tabulose® SC 591 and Tabulose® SC 611 both also sold by the company ROQUETTE.

Typically, among the sebum absorbers of mineral origin, mention will be made of clays which may be chosen from kaolin (INCI kaolin), ghassoul (INCI: Moroccan Lava Clay), green clay (INCI: illite) , montmorillonite, silica (INCI: Silica), and also mica.

Among the sebum absorbers of plant origin, mention will be made, for example, of activated charcoal.

For cyclodextrins, mention will be made of the Beauté by Roquette® CD 102 product (INCI: Cyclodextrin) sold by the company ROQUETTE or the product Kleptose® 10 (INCI: Beta-cyclodextrin) also sold by the company ROQUETTE.

According to one embodiment, the sebum absorber is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 2 to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40%, and preferably, the content of sebum absorber is approximately 3% to 20% by weight, and ideally 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Monocarboxylic acid

According to one variant, the cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for keratin materials comprises at least one monocarboxylic acid, or its salt, chosen from linear or branched, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 carbon atoms. Mention will be made of citric acid and its salts, gluconic acid, its lactone and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycolic acid and its salts, glucuronic acid and its salts, maltobionic acid and its salts, lactobionic acid and its salts, malic acid and its salts, tartaric acid and its salts, mandelic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, benzoic acid and its salts , fatty acids (or carboxylic acids with an aliphatic chain) having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms and their salts, preferably natural fatty acids such as in particular butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric and lauric acids. The salts of these monocarboxylic acids are preferably sodium salts.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, succinic acid and at least one monocarboxylic acid, or its salt, chosen from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, of which the chain carbonaceous consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid. Alternatively, the monocarboxylic acid is a fatty acid having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms, or is a salt of these fatty acids.

Gluconic acid is preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] According to another variant, the monocarboxylic acid is the cyclic form of gluconic acid, called gluconolactone.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of succinic acid and gluconic acid exhibits increased bactericidal activity against Propionobacterium acnes.

Galenic

The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” or “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable” means any medium which does not exhibit deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, inflammation, heating or tightness. or tingling that is unacceptable to a user of cosmetic or dermatological products. The medium is thus compatible with the keratin materials of human beings.

Typically, the keratin materials will be the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair, the hair system, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, and preferably the skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in all the galenic forms used in this cosmetic field, normally used for topical application such as aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, d '' liquid consistency emulsions or semi-liquid of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions, of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the type cream, aqueous or anhydrous gel, anhydrous compositions, solid compositions of microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared by the usual methods known to those skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be in the form of emulsions, ie, compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example water emulsions. -in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) or multiple (W / O / E or O / W / H)

[0069] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions have a continuous oily phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. These emulsions comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These emulsions have an aqueous continuous phase.

Among the dosage forms in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or in the form of a microemulsion, suitable for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the skin, washing creams will be mentioned. , foams, milks, facial cleansers in the form of milks, scrubs.

Among the dosage forms, suitable for cleaning the scalp and / or the hair, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or of a microemulsion, the dosage forms for rinsed application will be mentioned, say "rinse-off" in English: shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, serums, foams, balms, creams, sprays, conditioners, conditioners, hair creams.

[0074] According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an aqueous single-phase solution or of a hydroalcoholic single-phase solution, or in the form of a solid composition.

The term “aqueous single-phase solution” means a composition comprising an aqueous continuous phase comprising water and optionally, one or more organic solvents miscible with water. The term “hydroalcoholic monophasic solution” is understood to mean a composition comprising a continuous hydroalcoholic phase comprising at least one alcohol, and according to one aspect, several alcohols miscible with one another or miscible with water.

The term "solid single-phase composition" means a composition consisting of one or more solid phases mixed together, heterogeneously or homogeneously, preferably homogeneously.

Mention will be made, among the dosage forms, in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or solid monophasic compositions, suitable for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the skin, shower gels, face cleansers in the form of a lotion, lotions, micellar waters, scrubs, dry soaps, cleansing bars, liquid cleansers, powders such as additive bath powders or foaming bath powders or effervescent bath powders, shower creams , sprays.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous monophasic composition makes it possible to form a cleanser for the face, firstly to clean the skin but also to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections such as oily skin, shiny skin, shiny skin, large pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, dull skin.

Mention will be made, among the galenic forms, in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or solid monophasic compositions, suitable for cleaning keratin materials, preferably the scalp and the hair, liquid shampoos, lotions, gels, skin care products. rinse, dry shampoos.

[0081] Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, one or more organic solvents miscible with water.

According to one embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 75% by weight of water, preferably from 10 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 40 %, preferably 30 to 35%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60 to 95%, preferably from 70 to 90%, preferably from 80 to 85%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the microemulsion according to the invention comprises from 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60 to 95%, preferably from 70 to 90%, preferably from 80 to 85%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the hydroalcoholic single-phase composition comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60 to 95%, preferably from 70 to 90%, preferably from 80 to 85%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise, in the aqueous phase, at least one solvent soluble in water.

The term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprising at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or propanediol (or 1, 2 - mono propylene glycol). The latter is preferably of natural origin or obtained by a fermentation or biotechnological process, such as the product Zemea® sold by the company DUPONT and the product TILAMAR® PDO with N00VISTA sold by DSM.

Typically, the monoalcohol having 1 to 5 atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Humectants

The emulsion according to the invention can also comprise at least one humectant. The humectant may be chosen from polyols and / or esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol. The term “polyols” is understood to mean any molecule having in its structure at least two free hydroxy (—OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).

Typically, the polyol will be chosen from maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups , dextrins, maltodextrins, glucose syrups, and mixtures thereof.

By way of illustration, mention will in particular be made of the products Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol), Beauté by Roquette® PO 160 (INCI: Sorbitol), Beauté by Roquette® PO 260 (INCI: Mannitol), Beauté by Roquette® PO 370 (INCI: Xylitol), Beauté by Roquette® PO 500 (INCI: Isosorbide) marketed by the company ROQUETTE, glycerin (INCI: glycerin) sold by the company COOPER, propylene glycol (INCI: propylene Glycol) from COOPER, Butylene Glycol (INCI: 1,3-BUTANEDIOL).

Mention will be made, among the esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol, of the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE) by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.

[0100] The composition comprises from 0.5 to 25% by weight of polyols, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 6 % by weight, of polyols, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Oily phase

[0102] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil” means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble in an amount of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

[0104] According to one embodiment, the oil will be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ³ mm Hg (0.13Pa). Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethyl hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, triacetin, tricprine, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate, alcohol benzoates in C12 to C15, glycol esters such as butylene glycol cocoate, glycerin triisostearate, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, higher fatty alcohols urs such as oleic alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew oil, olive oil, argan, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil and their mixtures, vegetable butters such as shea butter, camellia butter.

These non-volatile oils can also be oils of the hydrocarbon or silicone type such as paraffin oil, squalane oil, petrolatum, dimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI: vitis vinifera seed oil), macadamia oil (INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate such as the product Miglyol Coco 810 (INCI: Coco -Caprylate / Caprate), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum indicum seed oil).

[0110] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] The liquid fatty phase can also comprise volatile oils. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils can for example be chosen from silicone oils or triglycerides of short fatty acids to reduce the greasy feel. [0112] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, of preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent such as a wax and / or a pasty compound.

[0114] Wax

The term "wax" means a fatty substance with a reversible liquid / solid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C and generally less than 90 ° C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of composition and exhibits in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or non-polar waxes or of a mixture of the two. The term “non-polar” is understood to mean a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms and in particular a hydrocarbon.

Polar waxes can in particular be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters. We can thus mention the waxes of Carnauba, Candelilla, bee (Cera alba), Chinese insect (Ericerus pela); from Japan, from Sumac, from Montan, triesters of C8-C20 acids and of glycerin such as glycerin tribhenate, acetylated glycol stearate sold in particular by the company VEVY under the trade name CETACENE, and mixtures thereof. These waxes can in particular be used in the form predispersed in an oil, as is the case with the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Pasty compound

The term “pasty compound” is understood to mean lipophilic fatty substances which, like waxes, are capable of undergoing a reversible change of liquid / solid state and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from waxes in that they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0120] According to one embodiment, the pasty compound is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Gelling agent [0122] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.

[0123] The term "gelling agent" means a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.

[0124] The gelling agent is chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents.

According to one embodiment, when the composition is an aqueous monophasic or hydroalcoholic monophasic composition, the composition comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from organic hydrophilic gelling agents, amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents.

[0126] The gelling agent makes it possible to viscosify the continuous phase, that is to say to adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to a value ranging from 100 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s.

[0127] The organic gelling agent can be chosen from polymers of synthetic origin or of plant origin, preferably of plant origin, chemically modified or not. It can thus be chosen from gums obtained from plants such as gum arabic, gum ghatti, tragacanth, konjac gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from seaweed such as alginates and carrageenans; gums resulting from a microbial fermentation such as xanthans, for example, the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum), sold by the company CP KELCO or the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by the company JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL AG, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives; cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinate or hydroxypropylated; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or carbomers, and mixtures thereof.

Among the carbomers, mention will be made, for example, of the product Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: carbomer) from the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. or the CARBOPOL ETD 2050 POLYMER (INCI: carbomer).

Mention will also be made of mixtures of gum arabic and of xanthan gum such as the product Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum), sold by the company SEPPIC, mixtures of starch and cellulose derivatives. or gums such the Beauté by Roquette® DS 112 product (INCI: Starch acetate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Xanthan gum), sold by the company ROQUETTE.

[0130] The inorganic gelling agent can be chosen from magnesium and / or aluminum silicates. An example of such a mineral gelling agent is Veegum® Pure from Vanderbilt Minerais LLC, which is a silicate of aluminum and magnesium.

[0131] Binder

[0132] According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a binder.

[0133] Preferably, the solid compositions according to the invention comprise at least one binder.

The term “binder” is understood to mean compounds which confer increased cohesion on the cosmetic composition. This cohesion can be adjusted depending on the amount and chemical affinity of the binding agent relative to the ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

[0135] Typically, the binder will be chosen from caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric / caprylic triglicerides) or Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI).

The binder will be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 to 15%, preferably from 5 to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the binders will also have emollient properties.

[0138] Emulsifying agent

[0139] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifiers.

The oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifier is an emulsifier with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 and chosen from optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, esters or polyesters of fatty acids and sucrose, esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol, modified polysiloxanes polyethers, ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithin, fatty alcohols, sorbitan esters without that this list is not exhaustive, and their mixtures.

By way of illustration, mention will be made of the product Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside), marketed by the company SEPPIC, the product Montanov L (INCI: C14-C22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) , marketed by the company SEPPIC, Montanov 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), Citrol GMS 40 (I NCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company CRODA, or the product Imwitor 960K (INCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Imwitor 372P (INCI: Glyceryl stearate citrate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Glucate SS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), sold by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc, the stearic plurol (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate), the Natragem E145 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate / Succinate (and ) Aqua), sold by the company CRODA, the product Span 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company SIGMA ALDRICH.

Among the sorbitan esters, mention will be made, for example, of the product Span 20.

Among the fatty alcohols, mention will be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20).

The O / W emulsifier can be advantageously chosen from emulsifier systems composed of a cyclodextrin and of a water-in-oil emulsifier of natural origin, such as the emulsifier system marketed by Roquette Frères under the name Beauté. by Roquette® DS 146.

The water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier is an emulsifier of HLB less than 8 and chosen from nonethoxylated fatty esters of polyols, and in particular from nonethoxylated fatty esters of glycerol, of polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, anydrodrohexitols such as in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups, dextrins and starches hydrolyzed.

[0146] Oily phase viscosity agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one viscosifying agent, in other words viscosifying agent, of the fatty phase, that is to say a lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosifying agent, chosen from among fatty alcohols.

[0148] The term “lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosing agent” means a molecule or macromolecule capable of increasing the viscosity of an oil without substantially changing its physical or chemical properties.

Among the fatty alcohols, mention will be made of Lanette 16 (INCI: cetyl alcohol), Lanette O (INCI: cetearyl Alcohol).

[0150] Surfactants

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from ionic, nonionic, anionic or surfactants. amphoteric or zwitterionic. These surfactants are chosen for their detergent and foaming function.

[0152] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic carboxylic surfactants, anionic sulphated surfactants, sulphonate surfactants, anionic phosphate surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic sulphonate surfactants, anionic carboxylic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In the present description, an entity is qualified as being “anionic” when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge. By “sulphated anionic surfactant” is meant an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ), and possibly additionally comprising one or more other functions derived from acids, such as acid functions. carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), sulfonate functions (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ) and / or phosphate functions. By way of example, the alkylsulphates, the alkylethersulphates, the alkylamidoethersulphates, the alkylarylpolyethersulphates, the monoglyceride-sulphates, as well as the salts of these compounds, are sulphated anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds cited by way of example contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denote a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds cited by way of example can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The term “non-sulfated anionic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant which does not fall within the definition of “sulfated anionic surfactant” as defined above.

It is also understood according to the invention that

- the anionic carboxylic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), but do not include a sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ), nor a sulphate function (-OSO ₃ H) or -OSO ₃ );

- the anionic sulphonate surfactants comprise at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and can optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO) and / or phosphates, but do not include a sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ). - phosphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO ₃ H ₂ or -OPO ₃ ² ), but do not include a carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), nor a sulphonic or sulphonate function ( - SO3H or -SO3-), nor of sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0156] In other words:

- an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or - OSO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated. , such as a sulfated anionic surfactant;

- An anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ), is considered, within the meaning of l invention and unless otherwise specified, as a sulfated anionic surfactant;

[0159] an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and except otherwise specified, as an unsulfated anionic sulfonate surfactant; An anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a sulphated anionic surfactant.

The anionic carboxylic surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl (aryl) ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds. The alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 28, more preferably still from 10 to 24, still better from 12 to 22, carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylene, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. It is also possible to use monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosidecitrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates, and their salts. According to one embodiment, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from

- acylglutamates in particular C6 C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoylglutamate or cocoylglutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;

- acylsarcosinates in particular in C6 C24, or even in C12-C20, such as cocoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate ;

- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate, (iso) stearoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium (iso) stearoyl lactylate;

- C6 C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates such as cocoyl glycinates and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate;

- alkyl (C6-C30) ethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl (C6-C24) ethercarboxylic acids;

- alkyl (C6-C30) arylethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl (C6-C24) arylethercarboxylic acids;

- alkyl (C6-C30) amidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular alkyl (C6-

C24) amidoethercarboxylic;

- and their mixtures; and in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

The anionic sulphonate surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates, alpha-olefinesulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates, alkylsulphinetuccinates, sulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylene, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

According to one embodiment, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkylethersulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates; the alpha- olefin sulfonates; and their mixtures; and in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

[0164] According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactants can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Another group of anionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyllactylates in which the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In addition, there may also be mentioned alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl) ethercarboxylic acids, (C624 alkyl) (C6-C24 aryl) polyoxyalkylenated ether-carboxylic acids. , polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl) amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

The anionic phosphate surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl phosphates; C6-C24 alkyl ether phosphates, in particular C12-C20; and their mixtures.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be chosen from derivatives of secondary or tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group. such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may also be made of: (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, for example cocobetaine; sulfobetaines; (C8-C20) alkyl sulfobetaines; alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines, for example cocamidopropylbetaine; or alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines.

[0167] Film-forming agents

[0168] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one film-forming agent.

The film-forming agent may be chosen from polymers of natural origin or derived from natural products such as hydroxypropyl methyl-cellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropyl-cellulose (HPC), or synthetic polymers such as l. polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), and / or plasticizers other than polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, triethyl citrate, polysorbate, or even waxes such as Carnauba wax, or hydrogenated castor oil. Mention will also be made of the Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 hydroxypropylated pea starch as a film-forming agent.

[0171] Coloring matter

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring material chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition and / or of coloring keratin materials, preferably skin, such as pigments, nacres, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral support), and mixtures thereof. These coloring materials can optionally be surface treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones copolymers, lecithins, wax. of carnauba, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate, phytic acid.

The term “pigments” is understood to mean white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, intended to color and / or opacify the cosmetic composition.

Among the pigments, mention will be made of inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic pigments. Examples of pigments are in particular iron, titanium or zinc oxides, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, without this list being limiting.

Among the pigments treated at the surface with lecithins, mention will be made of the products UNIPURE WHITE LC981 HLC (INCI: Cl 77891 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin, UNIPURE YELLOW LC 182 HLC (INCI: Cl 77492 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin), UNIPURE BLACK LC989 HLC (INCI: Cl 77499 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin, UNIPURE RED LC381HLC (INCI: Cl 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin) from the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

Among the pigments treated at the surface with phytic acid, mention will be made of the products Unipure White LC 985 PHY (INCI: Cl 77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Yellow LC 188 PHY (INCI: Cl 77492 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Red LC 388 PHY (INCI: Cl 77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), Unipure Black LC 998 PHY (INCI: Cl 77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide), from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

The term “nacres” is understood to mean any colored particles which may or may not be iridescent and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Among the nacres, mention will be made of titanium mica coated with metal oxide such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.

[0179] According to one embodiment, the makeup and / or care composition according to the invention comprises at least colored particles, preferably pigments such as iron oxide pigments and / or nacres.

[0180] Charges

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain at least one filler. By this term is meant any particle of any shape (in particular spherical or lamellar), mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition. Examples of fillers are talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamides, silicone resins, powders of silicone elastomers and powders of acrylic polymers, in particular of poly (methyl methacrylate) or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere Powders from Dow).

[0182] Sensory agents

[0183] Sensory agents make it possible to modify the sensory profile of the cosmetic or dermatological composition, to make it more pleasant for the user. The sensory agents can be chosen from modified starches such as carboxymethylated starches, for example Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 from Roquette, silicas or talcs, or mixtures thereof. These sensory agents provide softness to the touch for solid compositions, or a cushion effect for compositions in liquid or gel form.

[0184] Conditioning agents

The conditioning agents can be chosen from cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium.

[0186] Active ingredients

[0187] The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one cosmetic active.

As a cosmetic active ingredient or cosmetically active ingredient or cosmetically active substance, there will be mentioned an anti-acne agent, a sebum-regulating agent, an antibacterial agent, an antifungal agent, a keratolytic agent, a kerato-regulating agent, an astringent agent, an anti-inflammatory agent, an anti-irritant, an antioxidant, an anti-radical agent, a wound-healing agent, an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, an emollient agent, a tightening agent, a depigmenting agent , a mattifying agent, an antipollution agent, an agent stimulating the microcirculation, an agent desquamating agent, a tightening agent, vitamins, minerals, an ingredient or substance intended to cleanse or purify the skin, such surfactants which will be chosen from those having no stimulating activity on sebogenesis.

[0189] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active agent having emollient activity such as an emollient agent.

Mention will be made, as emollient agent and by way of illustration, of glyceryl stearate (INCI name), MOD (INCI: Octyldodecyl Myristate), the product Lipocire A (INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides), the product Lexfeel NS (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer), sold by the company INOLEX, the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric / caprylic triglicerides), sold by the company GATTEFOSSE, a coconut oil ester such as that the product Tegosoft AC (INCI: isoamyl cocoate), sold by the company EVONIK, the product DUB VCI 10 (INCI: Isodecyl Neopentanoate) from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS, Cetiol OE (INCI: dicaprylyl Ether), the product Mango butter ( INCI: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter).

Among the vitamins, mention will be made of tocopherol, for example, the product Covi-ox® T-70 C (INCI: tocopherol), sold by the company BASF, which can be used as an antioxidant.

[0192] The moisturizing agent will be chosen from humectants, film-forming agents, occlusive agents and lyotropic agents.

[0193] Among the film-forming agents, there will be mentioned, in addition to the film-forming agents described above, collagen, elastin, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid.

[0194] Among the occlusive agents, mention will be made of petroleum jelly, paraffin, petrolatum oil, wheat germ oil, shea butter, beeswax.

Among the lyotropic agents, mention will in particular be made of lanolin and its derivatives, ceramides and essential fatty acids.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the moisturizing agent is a humectant chosen from ethoxylated compounds or humectants as described above, preferably sorbitol. Mention will be made of the product Beauté by Roquette® PO 070 (INCI: Sorbitol) and Beauté by Roquette® PO 160 (INCI: Sorbitol), marketed by the company ROQUETTE.

Among the ethoxylated compounds, mention will be made of products based on glucose, methyl alcohol and sugar derivatives, such as the product Glucam ™ E-20 Humectant, sold by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS Inc.) [0198] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emollient agent, and / or at least one sebum-regulating agent and / or at least one other antibacterial agent.

Typically, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and so even more preferably, from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Additives

[0201] The composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredients as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other ingredients can for example be exfoliation or exfoliation agents, preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: Sodium benzoate) such as the product Microcare NB, sold by the company Thor, or benzoic acid, or potassium sorbate (INCI: Potassium sorbate), such as the product Microcare KS, also sold by the company Thor, or sorbic acid, pH adjusters such as citric acid, soda or arginine, agents antimicrobials, perfumes, sun filters, chelating agents and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Among the sunscreens, by way of illustration, mention will be made of Solvaeil XT 300 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglycéride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina), from the company CRODA , EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: Cl 77891 & ALUMINA & SIMETHICONE) from the company Merck KGaA.

[0203] According to one embodiment, the emulsions, aqueous monophasic compositions, hydroalcoholic and the solid compositions according to the invention will be prepared with "bio-sourced" ingredients. By “bio-sourced” is meant an ingredient whose dry mass in carbon atoms of renewable origin is at least 50%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, by weight based on the total dry mass of carbon atoms of the ingredient.

[0204] The emulsions, aqueous, hydroalcoholic single-phase compositions and the solid compositions according to the invention will be prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

[0205] Specific embodiment

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous monophasic composition composed of, preferably consisting of, water, a mixture of gluconic acid and succinic acid, and at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers; preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture; gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents; surfactants such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants, sensory agents; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; coloring matters; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; the perfumes.

[0207] According to a first variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is composed of:

- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture, gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, coloring matters, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

According to a second variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of:

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to four surfactants chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight of one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture, gelling agents such as agents hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, hydrating agents, coloring matters, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents , perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%. According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion, and is composed, preferably consisting of:

- water,

- from one to three oils,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- from one to four surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents , the perfumes.

[0210] According to a variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion is composed, preferably constituted:

- 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to three oils,

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to four surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients , moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[0211] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in a solid monophasic form, and is composed:

- water,

- at least one oil,

- at least one wax, or vegetable butter, or a mixture thereof,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,,

- at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

- at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes.

[0212] According to a variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is composed, preferably constituted:

- less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of water,

- from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to three oils,

- from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or two waxes, or of one or two vegetable butters, or mixtures thereof,

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to six surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[0213] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in a solid monophasic form, and is composed:

- water,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

- at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes, said composition further comprising lauric acid, or stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

[0214] According to a variant of the previous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is composed:

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to six surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionics,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes

- from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the lauric acid composition and from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the stearic acid composition, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[0215] Process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials

[0216] A subject of the invention is also a process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, a composition cosmetic according to the invention.

[0217] According to one embodiment of the process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, said process comprises an additional and final step of rinsing, preferably with water.

[0218] According to one embodiment of the process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, said process is a so-called "rinsed application" process, which comprises the steps:

- application of the cosmetic or dermatological composition,

- then applying the cosmetic or dermatological composition to the keratin materials where it has been applied for a time ranging from 5 seconds or 10 seconds to 2 minutes, or 5 minutes, or 10 minutes, or for the time required by the user to end the application,

- then rinsing the keratin materials, preferably with water, to remove the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

The term "rinsed application", as opposed to the term "without rinsing", is used in the present document to mean that the compositions of the present invention are used in a context in which the composition is finally rinsed or washed from the hair. or the skin after or during the application of the product A “leave-in” product refers to a composition which is applied to the hair or the skin and not subjected to a rinsing step.

[0220] Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections [0221] A subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections.

[0222] Skin imperfections are understood as aesthetic drawbacks and are to be distinguished from pathological skin disorders. Skin imperfections include oily skin, shiny skin, shiny skin, large pores, thick skin texture, redness, itching, loss of radiance, dull skin.

[0223] Cosmetic use for cleaning and / or removing make-up

[0224] A subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, for cleaning and / or removing make-up from skin having skin imperfections or skin disorders such as acne.

[0225] Acne treatment

[0226] The present invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

[0227] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

[0228] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended for the treatment of skin disorders such as acne.

[0229] The present invention also relates to a method of therapeutic treatment of skin disorders such as acne, comprising the administration of a composition according to the invention to a patient in need thereof.

[0230] Skin disorders such as acne should be distinguished from skin imperfections which only cause aesthetic inconvenience. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous follicle in which four closely related factors occur: hyperseborrhea, hyperkeratinization, proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes and inflammation.

[0231] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to treat skin disorders resulting from hyperseborrhea and / or hyperkeratinization and / or proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp and / or inflammation

[0232] A distinction is therefore made between i) cosmetic skin imperfections corresponding to oily skin characterized by production or overproduction of sebum (seborrhea and hyperseborrhea) giving the skin looks greasy and shiny. The skin texture is thicker and the pores dilated which gives the appearance of a dull complexion since the skin reflects less light. Occasionally, blemishes such as red pimples and blackheads may appear. In the case of combination skin, the shine is mainly localized on the middle part of the face: forehead, nose, chin, commonly called the T zone; ii) pathological skin disorders which result from the presence and / or proliferation of bacteria of the genus Propionobacterium spp., preferably of Propionobacterium Acnes and / or inflammation, and / or hyperkeratinization and / or hyper seborrhea. Acne-prone skin also suffers from skin shine and enlarged pores, but pimples and blackheads persist and breakouts are frequent.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms and; when applied to acne, they denote a procedure or a plan of action designed, even with a low probability of success but having to induce an overall beneficial effect such as the delay in the onset of the pathology, or the decrease in the severity of one or more symptoms or stabilization of the pathology.

[0234] Typically, in the case of acne, the treatment means the delay in the onset or the reduction in severity or even the disappearance of skin disorders such as comedones, and / or superficial inflammatory lesions papules and pustules) and deep (nodules), and / or the proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes.

[0235] Hyper seborrhea of the scalp

[0236] Normal hair corresponds to hair that is soft to the touch, supple, which disentangles and combs easily, has a shiny appearance and does not break. Also, the scalp is healthy, without dandruff, irritation or redness. In this case, the sebaceous glands are functioning normally, secreting a small amount of sebum in order to protect the scalp and lubricate the hair. However, it happens that they undergo an internal imbalance or caused by external aggressions, then causing disturbances in the production of sebum. Hyper seborrhea is a physiological phenomenon resulting in excessive production of sebum. The excess secreted sebum spreads over the scalp, but it also spreads down the hair shaft, making it greasy and heavy. The amount of sebum present on the scalp can be measured by various devices known to those skilled in the art. Most are based on applying a translucent plate against the scalp to collect the sebum present and then measuring the amount of light transmitted through the plate. [0237] Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic hyperseborrheic states of the scalp

[0238] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing, or eliminating cosmetic hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

[0239] Cosmetic hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp refer to oily hair and their aesthetic drawbacks. We will mention heavy hair, dull, shiny, dirty, sticky, difficult to comb. They are to be distinguished from pathological hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

[0240] Treatment of pathological hyper seborrheic states of the scalp

[0241] The invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for its use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

[0242] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

[0243] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended for the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic states of the scalp.

[0244] The present invention also relates to a method of therapeutic treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic states of the scalp, comprising the administration of a composition according to the invention to a patient in need thereof.

[0245] Among the pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp, we will mention seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms and; when applied to seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia, they denote a procedure or course of action designed, even with a low probability of success but expected to induce an overall beneficial effect such as delaying the onset of the pathology, or the reduction in the severity of one or more symptoms or the stabilization of the pathology.

[0247] Typically, in the case of seborrheic dermatitis, the treatment means the delay in the onset or the reduction in severity or even the disappearance of red patches, covered with white or yellowish films on the fatty areas of the leather. scalp occurring on seborrheic skin. Typically, in the case of seborrheic alopecia, the treatment is understood to mean the delay or reduction of hair loss, or even the disappearance of hair loss.

[0249] Thus, we therefore distinguish: i) cosmetic hyper seborrheic states of the scalp which are purely aesthetic disorders and which are characterized by greasy hair, heavy hair, dull, shiny, dirty, sticky, difficult to comb, and ii) pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp which may be seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia. Examples

[0250] Example 1: shower gel

In this example, a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of which is reproduced in Table 1 below, in the form of a shower gel for cleaning is prepared.

[0252] Table 11

Phase A1 is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A1 with stirring, heating at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes. Still with stirring, phase A2 is added to phase A1 while maintaining 80 ° C. Separately, phase B is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase B with stirring at 80 ° C. Phase B is then added to phase A1 + A2, with stirring, at 80 ° C. for 10 minutes. The mixture is cooled to 25 ° C., then phases C and D are added. Finally, the pH is adjusted to a value greater than or equal to 4.6 using the ingredients of phase E. [0254] Example 2: facial cleanser

In this example, a cosmetic composition for cleansing and removing makeup in the form of an aqueous single-phase solution is prepared. Its composition is described in Table 2 below. [0256] [Table 2]

Phase A is prepared by mixing the ingredients at 80 ° C for 40 minutes, then cooled to 25 ° and phase B is added. The pH is adjusted to a value greater than or equal to 4.6 using the gluconolactone and sodium hydroxide.

[0258] Example 3: Clarifying Cleanser [0260] In this example, a cleansing and clarifying fluid gel for the skin is prepared.

[0260] [Table 3]

The entire preparation is carried out at room temperature. The hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and sorbitol are mixed in water, with gentle stirring. The carboxymethylated starch is added with gentle stirring until this starch is hydrated. Ingredients B and C are then added successively, and then one waits for their complete dissolution. Ingredient D is then added successively, and then waited for its complete dissolution. Next, ingredient E is added, and then waits for complete dissolution. Finally, we add the ingredients F, G and H.

[0262] Example 4: shampoo [0263] In this example, a shampoo is prepared.

[0264] [Table 4]

ingredient C, and wait until homogeneous dispersion. Ingredients D to I are then added successively with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The pH is adjusted to 4.6-4.8 with a concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[0266] Example 5: cleansing bars for the body

In this example, three solid compositions are prepared for cleansing the body, called "body cleansing bars".

[0268] [Table 5]

[0269] Phase A is heated to 85-90 ° C, then homogenized for a short time. Cool to 75-80 ° C with stirring, then add ingredients B to E successively with stirring. It is transferred to a mold and then allowed to cool to room temperature.

[0270] [Table 6]

Phase A is heated to 85-90 ° C, then homogenized for a short time. Cooled to 75-80 ° C with stirring, then ingredients B to E are added successively with stirring. It is transferred to a mold and then allowed to cool to room temperature. [0272] [Table 7]

Phase B is prepared separately in a bowl with gentle stirring. Then phase B is added to phase A, and mixed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Ingredients C to H are then added successively, allowing time to have a homogeneous dispersion. The mixture obtained is then placed in a mold, and it is left to stand at room temperature for 24 hours. A bar of "soap" is obtained with visible sodium coco-sulfate needles.

[0274] Example 6: shower cleanser for the face and the body

In this example, four shower cleansers are prepared in different fluidity forms: liquid, fluid gel and thick gel. [0276] [Table 8]: fluid gel cleaner 1

[0277] In water heated to 65 ° C., the magnesium aluminum silicate and the xanthan gum are slowly added one after the other with shearing stirring in order to disperse well. Stirring is maintained until complete hydration. Maintain at 65 ° C, and add the ingredients B. Then cool to room temperature. Ingredients C to F are then added following the order of Table 8, while awaiting complete dispersion between each addition, avoiding the incorporation of air. It is finally adjusted to pH 4, 6-4, 8 with a concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[0278] [Table 9]: liquid cleaner

Ingredient B is added to phase A, then ingredient C, with stirring, and the mixture is heated to 60 ° C. It is then cooled to room temperature, then phases D to I are added successively with stirring. [0280] [Table 10]: thick gel

[0281] A thick gel cleanser is prepared using the ingredients of Table 10. [0282] [Table 11]: fluid gel cleaner 2

[0283] A fluid gel cleanser is prepared using the ingredients of Table 11. [0284] Example 7: effervescent powder for the bath

In this example, effervescent powders for the bath are prepared. [0286] [Table 12]: effervescent powder 1

An effervescent powder for the bath is prepared according to Table 12. [0288] Table 13]: effervescent powder 2

An effervescent powder for the bath is prepared according to Table 13.

[0290] Example 8: powders for the bath

In this example, two “additive powders” are prepared for the bath; and a "foaming powder" for the bath.

[0292] [Table 14]: additive powder for bath 1

An effervescent powder for the bath is prepared according to Table 14. [0294] Table 15]: additive powder for bath 2

[0297] A foaming powder for the bath is prepared according to Table 16. [0298] Example 9: exfoliating cleanser for the face and the body

In this example, three cleansing and exfoliating gels are prepared for the face and the body. [0300] [Table 17]: cleansing and exfoliating gel 1

A fluid cleansing and exfoliating gel is prepared according to Table 17.

[0302] [Table 18]: cleansing and exfoliating gel 2

A fluid cleansing and exfoliating gel is prepared according to Table 18. [0304] [Table 19]: cleansing and exfoliating gel 3

A fluid cleansing and exfoliating gel is prepared according to Table 19. [0306] Example 10: “in the shower” cream or lotion for the body

In this example, three lotions are prepared for use in the shower, and one cream for use in the shower with rinsing after use.

[0308] [Table 20]: lotion in the shower 1

A "shower lotion" according to Table 20 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0310] [Table 21]: lotion in the shower 2

A "shower lotion" according to Table 21 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0312] [Table 22]: lotion in the shower 3

[0313] A "shower lotion" according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream. [0314] [Table 23]: cream in the shower

[0315] A "shower cream" according to Table 22 is prepared in the form of a white cream.

[0316] Example 11: cleansers in solid form [0317] In this example, cleansers are prepared in solid form: a cleansing bar for the hair and the body, a cleansing bar with activated carbon, and a solid soap. [0318] [Table 24]: cleansing bar for the hair and the body

[0320] [Table 25]: cleaning bar with activated carbon

In a stirred bowl, the ingredients of phase A are combined. The mixture is heated to 80-85 ° C. with stirring. This temperature is maintained. Phase B is then added. The ingredients of phase C are mixed separately, then this premix is added to the contents of the bowl. Ingredients D to G are then added successively. When the mixture is quite homogeneous, the preparation is poured into a mold and then allowed to cool to room temperature. We get a solid bar. [0322] [Table 26]: solid soap

A solid soap is prepared according to Table 26.

Example 12: body wash spray

In this example, hydroalcoholic solutions are prepared which can be used as a spray on the body with rinsing after application. [0325] [Table 27]: spray 1

A two-phase spray is prepared according to Table 27. [0327] [Table 28]: spray 2

A liquid single-phase spray is prepared according to Table 28.

[0329] Example 13: solution for cleaning cloth

In this example, a solution is prepared for impregnating cleaning wipes.

[0331] [Table 29]

A solution suitable for impregnating a cleaning wipe is prepared according to Table 29. [0333] Example 14: “sulfate-free” washing solution for face and body [0334] [Table 30]

A washing solution without sulphated surfactants is prepared according to Table 30.

[0336] Example 15: hair and body cleanser [0337] [Table 31]

A hair and body cleanser is prepared according to Table 31.

Claims

[Claim 1] Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - succinic acid,

- and at least one monocarboxylic acid, or its salt, chosen from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 atoms of carbons.

[Claim 2] A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid.

[Claim 3] Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[Claim 4] Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic carboxylic surfactants, anionic sulphated surfactants, anionic sulphonate surfactants and anionic phosphate surfactants.

[Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 6] Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, and more preferably still from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 7] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gluconic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sebum absorber of plant origin chosen from native or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, native or modified granular starches, native or modified cyclodextrins. , dextrins and maltodextrins, and / or at least one sebum absorber of mineral origin such as clays and silicas and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 9] Composition according to claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or gelling agents minerals.

[Claim 10] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or in the form of a microemulsion.

[Claim 11] Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one emulsifying agent, chosen from oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifiers.

[Claim 12] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the said composition is in the form of a cleansing cream, of a foam, of a milk, of a facial cleanser, of a scrub.

[Claim 13] Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition is in a pharmaceutical form for rinsed application chosen from: shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, serums, foams, balms, creams, sprays, conditioners, conditioners, hair creams.

[Claim 14] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the composition is in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or solid single-phase composition.

[Claim 15] Composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the said composition is an aqueous or hydroalcoholic single-phase composition and that it comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or mineral gelling agents.

[Claim 16] Composition according to Claim 15, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a washing gel such as a shower gel, a face cleanser, a lotion or a scrub.

[Claim 17] A composition according to claim 15 characterized in that the composition is in the form of a liquid shampoo, a lotion, a gel, a rinse aid.

[Claim 18] A composition according to claim 14 characterized in that said composition is a solid composition, and in that it comprises at least one binder.

[Claim 19] A composition according to claim 18 characterized in that said composition is in the form of a dry soap.

[Claim 20] A composition according to claim 19, characterized in that said solid composition is in the form of a dry shampoo.

[Claim 21] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emollient, and / or a sebum-regulating agent and / or at least one other antibacterial agent.

[Claim 22] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one other ingredient selected from preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture; sensory agents; humectants; moisturizers; coloring matters; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; the perfumes.

[Claim 23] Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that said composition is an aqueous single-phase composition composed of water, a mixture of gluconic acid, and succinic acid and at least one other ingredient chosen from among sebum absorbers; preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture; gelling agents such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents; surfactants such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants, sensory agents; humectants; emollients; moisturizers; coloring matters; film-forming agents; occlusive agents; conditioning agents; the perfumes.

[Claim 24] Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it is composed of: - from 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, - from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants,,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and their salts or a mixture, gelling agents hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and / or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and / or inorganic gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, hydrating agents, coloring matters, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, agents conditioners, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[Claim 25] A composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it is in the form of a microemulsion and in that it is composed:

- water,

- from one to three oils, - a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

- from one to four surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

[Claim 26] A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a microemulsion and in that it is composed:

- from 40 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition - from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to three oils,

- from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients , moisturizing agents, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, agents conditioners, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[Claim 27] A composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it is in a solid monophasic form, and in that it is composed of: - water,

- at least one oil,

- at least one wax, or vegetable butter, or a mixture thereof,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,,

- at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants, - at least one other ingredient chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, agents moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes.

[Claim 28] Composition according to claim 1 or 27, characterized that it is composed:

- from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or two waxes, or one or two vegetable butters, or mixtures thereof, - from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid

- from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from one to six surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, - from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to for the total weight of the composition, from one to ten ingredients chosen from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensory agents, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, coloring materials, film-forming agents, occlusive agents, conditioning agents, perfumes, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

[Claim 29] A composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it is in a solid monophasic form, and in that it is composed:

- water,

- a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid, - at least one surfactant chosen from anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

[Claim 30] Composition according to claim 1 or 30, characterized that it is composed of: - less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of water,

[Claim 31] A method of cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair, a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

[Claim 32] A method according to claim 31, characterized in that it comprises an additional step of rinsing, preferably with water.

[Claim 33] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30, for cleaning and / or removing make-up from skin having skin imperfections.

[Claim 34] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30, for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin imperfections such as as oily skin, shiny skin, shiny skin, large pores, thick skin texture, loss of radiance, dull skin.

[Claim 35] A dermatological composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23-30, for treating skin disorders such as acne.

[Claim 36] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20 or 23 to 30. for preventing, reducing or eliminating hypereborrheic states scalp cosmetics.

[Claim 37] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to Claim 33, characterized in that the cosmetic hypereborrheic states are greasy hair, heavy hair, dull, shiny, dirty, sticky, difficult to comb.

[Claim 38] A dermatological composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20 or 23 to 30 for its use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrheic conditions of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.