CN114449994A

CN114449994A - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and/or removing cosmetics, comprising succinic acid, for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects, treating skin diseases and preventing, treating and combating excessive seborrhoeic disorders of the scalp

Info

Publication number: CN114449994A
Application number: CN202080065519.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: G·洛威-波米尔
Original assignee: Roquette Co
Current assignee: Roquette Co
Priority date: 2019-09-20
Filing date: 2020-09-18
Publication date: 2022-05-06
Also published as: WO2021053397A1; EP4031100A1; BR112022005201A2; KR20220068226A; JP2022548757A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for use in the dermatological and/or cosmetic field, preferably for cleaning and/or removing cosmetics from keratin materials, preferably for use on the skin, scalp and hair, for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects and treating skin diseases, such as acne, and for preventing, treating and combating excessive seborrhoeic disorders of the scalp.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and/or removing cosmetics, comprising succinic acid, for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects, treating skin diseases and preventing, treating and combating excessive seborrhoeic disorders of the scalp

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition for dermatology and/or cosmetics, preferably for cleaning, in other words for hygiene, and/or removing cosmetics from keratinous substances, preferably skin, scalp and hair, so that skin imperfections can be prevented, reduced or eliminated and skin diseases, such as acne, can be treated, and excessive seborrheic disorders of the scalp can be prevented, treated and combated.

Background

Skin disorders

Seborrhea is a biological disorder and hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratosis are biological skin diseases, all three of which result in the appearance of skin defects.

Seborrhea and excessive seborrhea are associated with sebum secretion. The normal biological function of the skin requires the secretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands located in the dermis. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and body hair. This membrane protects the skin from dryness, lubricates body hair, and has a protective function by promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms: this is called seborrhea. The secretion of sebum may become excessive and lead to the appearance of skin defects: this is called excessive seborrhea. Skin imperfections resulting from seborrhea are oily skin, or even greasy and shiny skin, dilated pores, thick skin texture and redness.

Hyperkeratosis is a biological condition that also leads to skin defects. It is usually caused by androgens and consists of an increase in the synthesis of keratinocytes. Skin imperfections resulting from hyperkeratosis are loss of radiance and dullness of the skin.

In addition to the skin defects mentioned previously, seborrhea and hyperkeratosis can also cause diseases such as acne either independently or together. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the follicle follicles that affects most adolescents and adults. The disease varies in its presentation and severity. A common feature is sebaceous gland retention, which is clinically reflected in specific underlying lesions.

Hyperkeratosis and hyperseborrhoea, together or separately, cause the clogging of the hair follicles, i.e. the pores of the skin. This blockage can be seen by the appearance of a skin disease called "comedones"; they may be open, when the sebum remains exposed to air and blackens due to oxidation, when they are also called "blackheads"; or they may be closed when sebum is no longer exposed to air (i.e., when the blockage is due to hyperkeratosis), when they are also referred to as "whiteheads".

In these blackhead acne, the proliferation of bacteria of the genus propionibacterium, particularly propionibacterium acnes, induces an inflammatory response that causes redness and discomfort to the touch. Bacterial proliferation may lead to superficial inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules) and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules).

Acne is therefore a disease involving the sebaceous gland follicle of four closely related factors: hyperseborrhoea, hyperkeratosis, propionibacterium acnes proliferation and inflammation.

Daily hygiene and cosmetic removal help to combat the appearance of imperfections and skin diseases. Careful hygiene may be sufficient to alleviate or even eradicate the phenomenon.

Skin defects may be caused by poor cosmetic removal: not suitable for skin type cleansing.

Diseases of the scalp and hair

The scalp, such as the remainder of the skin tissue, is a continuously renewed epidermis, including hair follicles and sebaceous glands, which together form the pilosebaceous follicles.

The sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which is discharged into the sebaceous gland sacs. Sebum secretion is a normal phenomenon and is useful for skin and hair. Sebum forms a lipid film on the surface of the epidermis and body hair. This film protects the skin from dryness, lubricates body hair, and has a bactericidal function by promoting anaerobic and lipophilic microorganisms. Thus, sebum protects the scalp and shines the hair through lubrication.

Oily hair is primarily due to increased sebum secretion from the sebaceous glands on the scalp. Known as excessive seborrhea, this phenomenon is associated with unpleasant feelings, discomfort, aesthetic diseases and even skin diseases.

Excessive seborrhea of the scalp leads to the appearance of oily hair and its aesthetic drawbacks. Hair is soft, dull, lacking in volume, and has a generally greasy appearance, especially at the roots. Excess sebum accumulates at the roots, giving an "oily" appearance. Soft and flat, the hairs clump together and often appear dirty, or indeed dirty, because sebum traps dust present in the air which tends to adhere to the hairs.

Excessive seborrhea may lead to the aesthetic diseases and discomfort previously mentioned, but may also lead to skin diseases reflected by seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin disease (or dermatosis) characterized by the appearance of white or yellowish scaly erythema covering oily areas of the scalp, preferentially occurring on seborrheic skin. These lesions evolve in bursts.

The presence of sebum in these areas leads to an abnormal proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia (Malassezia), which are naturally present on the skin. These microorganisms cause a specific inflammatory response, reflected by erythema (redness of the skin) and accelerated scalp and skin cell turnover, causing an unusual desquamation.

This is a benign, non-infectious but chronic disease: it evolves repeatedly and suddenly. Seborrheic dermatitis has a concomitant effect on the quality of life due to the visibility of the lesion.

Excessive seborrhea can lead to seborrheic or androgenic alopecia, that is, hair loss occurs. The reason for this is the high activity of the enzyme 5 α -reductase, which leads to accelerated renewal, especially of the hair follicles. The growth phase is shortened (progressive evolution), while the resting phase is prolonged. The hair became thinner and lighter in color until nectarine velvety hair was obtained. Furthermore, the presence of excess sebum around the hair up to the bulbs will suffocate it and inactivate it, thus quickly shedding.

In the prior art, various solutions have been proposed for cleaning and removing cosmetics from the skin suffering from defects and skin diseases; these compositions typically include an abrasive or astringent. Indeed, for the removal of makeup and cleansing, actions for regulating sebaceous gland secretions, "purifying" the sebum absorption and astringency are sought.

Various solutions have also been proposed for reducing excessive sebum secretion at the scalp. Compositions comprising abrasives or astringents have been used. In fact, in an attempt to solve the problems of sebum secretion and excessive sebum secretion, actions for regulating sebaceous gland secretion, "purifying" sebum absorption and astringency are sought.

In practice, however, these products are often too invasive and remove the natural protection provided by sebum due to accumulation, frequency of use and their composition. These products induce a rebound effect by stimulating the sebaceous glands, thereby increasing sebum production.

Document WO 2015/106175 describes succinic acid having a bactericidal effect on propionibacterium. The keratin-degrading effect of succinic acid is also known because of the degree to which it has an "exfoliating" effect on the skin.

Technical problem

The first technical problem solved by the present application is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleaning and hygiene, in order to purify the skin, to remove its impurities and to exfoliate defects instead of being invasive or causing reactive hyperseborrhoea.

The second technical problem solved by the present application is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleaning the hair and scalp which does not cause a rebound effect on sebum production by stimulating the sebaceous glands and thereby reduces sebum production after cleaning.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing, in other words for hygiene and/or preferential skin removal of cosmetics from keratinous substances, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one organic acid chosen from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

The invention also relates to a method for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratinous substances, in particular the skin, consisting in applying to the keratinous substances, in particular the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or removing make-up from skin having skin defects or skin diseases, such as acne.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects such as oily skin, greasy skin, oily skin, pore dilation, thick skin texture, loss of shine, dull skin.

The invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for the treatment of skin diseases such as acne.

Another subject of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic hyper-seborrheic disorders of the scalp such as oily hair, soft tatted, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair and difficult-to-style hair.

The invention also relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention for the treatment of pathological excessive seborrheic disorders of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Detailed Description

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and/or removing cosmetics from keratinous substances, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one organic acid chosen from linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms, and most preferably 4 carbon atoms.

Succinic acid

According to one embodiment, the organic acid is succinic acid. According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is in the form of a salt, especially a sodium salt, such as a mono-or disodium salt.

Succinic acid (or succinic acid) is an organic acid having two carboxyl groups and has a half-structure formula of COOH-CH2-CH 2-COOH. At present, such acids can be prepared by biotechnological methods known to the person skilled in the art. Mention includes, for example, that sold by Reverdia "

", or" Beaut é by "sold by Roquette

SA 130”。

According to one embodiment, succinic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Succinic acid advantageously has a bactericidal function, especially against gram-positive bacteria, such as propionibacterium species, especially propionibacterium acnes.

In a complementary manner, the succinic acid may also be a mechanical skin exfoliation agent, known as "scrub", when the succinic acid is in a solid crystalline form; or a chemical skin exfoliation agent, when in dissolved form.

Sebum absorber

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sebum absorber.

Sebum absorbers are hydrophobic or amphiphilic solid particles, solid or porous, which have the ability to absorb sebum by hydrophobic affinity and/or by trapping in the pores of the particles. Sebum remaining on or trapped in the particles may then be eliminated by any operation that enables the particles to be removed. Similarly, sebum oxidation or degradation products are also absorbed by the sebum absorber. The sebum absorber can purify and control oil to the skin.

It is also advantageous that sebum absorbers provide a pleasant "soft" feel to the skin.

Typically, the sebum absorber is selected from sebum absorbers of vegetable origin, from natural or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, natural granular or modified granular starch, natural or modified cyclodextrins, dextrins and maltodextrins and/or at least one sebum absorber of mineral origin, such as clays and silica and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Among the starches, mention is made of maize starch, such as the product Beaut é by

ST 005 (INCI: Zea (mays) starch), which is sold by ROQUETEE.

Typically, the modified granular starch may also be a modified starch, such as octenyl succinylated starch. Mention will be made of, for example, the product Beaut é by

ST 012 (INCI: aluminum starch octenylsuccinate), marketed by ROQUETEE. Advantageously, the product Beaut é by

ST 012 makes it possible to absorb sebum and also to provide compositions according to the invention with a "soft feel". Among the modified starches, mention may also be made of the product Beaut é by

ST 118 (INCI: sodium carboxymethyl starch), sold by RoQUETE.

Microcrystalline cellulose will be mentioned as a sebum absorber and by means of the product Microcel^TM100 (INCI: microcrystalline cellulose), sold by ROQUETTE.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose (INCI: microcrystalline cellulose)&Cellulose gum), such as products

SC 591 and

SC 611, both sold by ROQUETEE.

Generally, among the sebum absorbers of mineral origin, mention will be made of clays which may be chosen from kaolin (INCI kaolin), kaolin (INCI: Morocco lava clay), raw clay (INCI: illite), montmorillonite, silica (INCI: silica) and mica.

Among the sebum absorbers of vegetable origin, mention will be made, for example, of activated carbon.

For cyclodextrins, mention will be made of the product Beaut é by

CD 102 (INCI: Cyclodextrin), which is sold by RoQUETE; or products thereof

10 (INCI: Beta-cyclodextrin), which is also sold by ROQUETEE.

According to one embodiment, the sebum absorber is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the sebum absorber content is about 3% to 20% by weight, and ideally from 4% to 10% by weight.

Monocarboxylic acids

According to one variant, the cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for keratinous substances comprises at least one monocarboxylic acid chosen from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids or salts thereof, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferentially 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferentially 6 carbon atoms. Citric acid and its salts, gluconolactone and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycolic acid and its salts, glucuronic acid and its salts, maltobionic acid and its salts, lactobionic acid and its salts, malic acid and its salts, tartaric acid and its salts, mandelic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, benzoic acid and its salts, fatty acids having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms (or carboxylic acids containing a fatty chain) and their salts, preferably natural fatty acids (such as in particular butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid) will be mentioned. The salts of these monocarboxylic acids are preferably sodium salts.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, succinic acid and at least one monocarboxylic acid or salt thereof, chosen from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of which consists of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferably 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid. According to one alternative, the monocarboxylic acid is a fatty acid having a carbon chain of 4 to 12 atoms, or a salt of such fatty acids.

Gluconic acid is preferentially present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another variant, the monocarboxylic acid is in the form of the ring of gluconic acid, known as gluconolactone.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of succinic acid and gluconic acid, having an enhanced bactericidal activity associated with propionibacterium acnes.

Administration forms

The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. "physiologically acceptable medium" or "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" is understood to mean any medium which does not present harmful side effects, in particular does not produce redness, inflammation, fever, tightness or tingling sensations unacceptable to the user of the cosmetic or dermatological product. Thus, the medium is compatible with human keratinous materials.

Typically, the keratinous substance will be skin, mucous membranes, scalp or hair, body hair system, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, preferably skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in any application form used in the field of such cosmetics, which are generally intended for topical application, such as aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type (obtained by dispersing the fatty phase in the aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O)), or creams of soft, semisolid or solid consistency or suspensions or emulsions of the aqueous or anhydrous gel type, anhydrous compositions, solid compositions of microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, i.e. a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in each other, such as a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O) or an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W) or a multi- (W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsion.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase. These emulsions comprise an oily continuous phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. These emulsions comprise an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These emulsions comprise an aqueous continuous phase.

Mention will be made, among the application forms, of cleansing creams, mousses, milks, facial cleansers, scrubs in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion or a microemulsion suitable for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratinous substances (preferentially the skin).

Mention will be made, among application forms suitable for cleansing the scalp and/or hair, of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair films, essences, mousses, balms, creams, sprays, conditioners, relaxers, hair creams, in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, or microemulsion application forms for "rinse-off" application.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a single-phase solution or a water-alcohol single-phase solution, or in the form of a solid composition.

An aqueous single-phase solution is understood to mean a composition comprising an aqueous continuous phase comprising water and optionally one or more organic solvents miscible with water.

A water-alcohol single-phase solution is understood to mean a composition comprising a water-alcohol continuous phase comprising at least one alcohol and, according to one aspect, several alcohols which are miscible with each other or with water.

Solid single-phase composition is intended to mean a composition consisting of one or more solid phases which are heterogeneously or homogeneously mixed, preferably homogeneously mixed, with each other.

Mention will be made, among the application forms, of bath gels in the form of aqueous, water-alcohol or solid single-phase compositions suitable for cleaning and/or removing cosmetics from keratinous substances (preferentially skin), facial cleansers in the form of lotions, micellar water, scrubs, dry soaps, cleansing bars, liquid cleansers, powders, such as powders to be added to the bath or foaming bath powders or effervescent bath powders, bath creams, sprays.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition according to makes it possible to form a facial cleanser to clean the skin on the one hand, but also to prevent, reduce or eliminate skin imperfections such as oily skin, greasy skin, oily skin, pore dilation, thick skin texture, loss of shine, dull skin.

Mention will be made, among the application forms, of liquid shampoos, lotions, gels, rinse-off products, dry shampoos in the form of aqueous, hydro-alcoholic or solid single-phase compositions suitable for cleaning keratinous substances, preferentially the scalp and the hair.

Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents.

According to one embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises from 0.5% to 75% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, preferably from 30% to 35% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises from 50% to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 80% to 85% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the microemulsion according to the present invention comprises from 40% to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous single-phase composition comprises from 50% to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 80% to 85% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the water-alcohol single-phase composition comprises from 50% to 99% by weight of water, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 80% to 85% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise at least one water-soluble solvent in the aqueous phase.

"Water-soluble solvent" is used to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and is miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50 wt.% at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent used in the composition according to the invention may be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C₃-C₄Ketones and C₂-C₄An aldehyde.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or propylene glycol (or 1, 2-monopropylene glycol). The latter are preferably of natural origin or obtained by fermentation or biotechnological processes, such as the products sold by DUPONT

And products sold by DSM

PDO with

Generally, the monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wetting agent

The emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one humectant. The wetting agent may be selected from polyols and/or esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols.

"polyol" is intended to mean any molecule having at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups in its structure. These polyols are preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25 ℃).

Typically the polyol is selected from: maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol (or glycerol), glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin, maltodextrin, glucose syrup, and mixtures thereof.

By way of illustration, mention will be made in particular of the product Beaut é by

PO 070 (INCI: sorbitol), product Beaut é by

PO 160 (INCI: sorbitol), product Beaut é by

PO 260 (INCI: mannitol), product Beaut é by

PO 370 (INCI: xylitol), product Beaut é by

PO 500 (INCI: isosorbide), which is sold by ROQUETTE, glycerol sold by COOPER (INCI: glycerol), propylene glycol from COOPER (INCI: propylene glycol), butylene glycol (INCI: 1, 3-butylene glycol).

Among the esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol, mention will be made of the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), which is available from LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.

The composition comprises from 0.5 to 25% by weight of polyol, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from 2 to 6% by weight of polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and which, when introduced into water at 25 ℃ in an amount of at least 1% by weight, is not soluble at all in water or is soluble to an extent of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into water.

According to one embodiment, the oil will be selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.

"non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil which remains on the keratinous substance for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and in particular has a viscosity of less than 10^-3mmAn oil having a vapor pressure of Hg (0.13 Pa).

Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of fatty acid esters, such as cetearyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, triacetin, tricaprylin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, mixture of coco decanoate and caprylate, benzoate esters of C12 to C15 alcohols, glycol esters such as coco glycol cocoate, triisostearate, tocopheryl acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, Palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, ailanthus altissima oil, cashew nut oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof, vegetable oils such as shea butter, camellia butter.

These non-volatile oils may also be hydrocarbon or silicone type oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petroleum jelly, dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: jojoba seed oil), grape seed oil (INCI: vitas vinfiera seed oil), macadamia nut oil (INCI: macadamia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (sunflower seed oil), Coco caprylate/caprate mixtures such as the product Miglyol Coco 810 (INCI: Coco caprylate/caprate), sweet almond oil (INCI: sweet almond oil), sesame oil (INCI: sesame seed oil).

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The liquid fatty phase may also comprise volatile oils. Volatile oil is intended to mean an oil that is capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil may for example be selected from silicone oils or short chain fatty acid triglycerides in order to reduce greasy feeling.

According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fat or oil phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent, such as a wax and/or a pasty compound.

Wax

By "wax" is intended a fatty substance having a reversible liquid-solid state change and having a melting point greater than 30 ℃ and generally less than 90 ℃, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition, and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar waxes or nonpolar waxes or of mixtures of these two waxes. "nonpolar" is intended to mean waxes which contain only carbon, hydrogen and/or phosphorus atoms, and in particular hydrocarbons.

The polar wax may be selected from animal waxes, vegetable waxes, and synthetic waxes or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters. Thus, mention may be made of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (Cera alba), chinese insect wax (Ericerus pela), japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, triesters of C8-C20 acids and glycerol, such as glyceryl tribehenate, in particular the acetylated glycol stearate sold under the trade name cetocene by VEVY, and mixtures thereof. These waxes can be used in oil, in particular in predispersed form, as can mixtures of candelilla wax and jojoba oil.

According to one embodiment, the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compound

"pasty compound" is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty substance (such as a wax) capable of undergoing a reversible liquid-solid change and having an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, but which differs from waxes in that they comprise a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 23 ℃.

According to one embodiment, the pasty compound is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Gelling agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.

The gelling agent is intended to mean a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, produces a slightly stronger internal molecular bond, thus forming a three-dimensional network fixing the solvent.

The gelling agent is selected from hydrophilic organic gelling agents and/or lipophilic organic gelling agents and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and/or mineral gelling agents.

According to one embodiment, when the composition is an aqueous single-phase composition or a water-alcohol single-phase composition, the composition comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and/or mineral gelling agents.

The gelling agent may impart viscosity on the continuous phase, that is, adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to a value in the range of 100mpa.s to 20,000 mpa.s.

The organogelator may be chosen from polymers of synthetic or vegetable origin, preferably from polymers of vegetable origin, chemically modified or not. Thus, it may be selected from gums of vegetable origin, such as acacia, ghatti, tragacanth, konjac, tara, locust bean, guar or derivatives thereof; algae derived gums such as alginates and carrageenans; gums derived from microbial fermentation, such as xanthan gum, for example the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by CP KELCO, or the product xanthan FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum), mannan, scleroglucan or derivatives thereof sold by JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL AG; cellulose and its derivatives, such as carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose; starches and their derivatives, such as certain modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinylated or hydroxypropylated starches; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid or carbomer, and mixtures thereof.

Among carbomers, mention may be made, for example, of Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: carbomer) or Carbopol ETD 2050 polymers (INCI: carbomer) from LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of gum arabic and xanthan gum, such as the product solaglum AX (INCI: gum arabic (and) xanthan gum), marketed by SEPPIC; mixtures of starch and cellulose or gum derivatives, such as the product Beaut é by

DS 112 (INCI: starch acetate (and) hydroxyethyl cellulose (and) xanthan gum), sold by RoQUETE.

The mineral gelling agent may be selected from magnesium and/or aluminium silicates. An example of such a mineral gelling agent is from Vanderbilt Minerals LLC

Pure, which is magnesium aluminum silicate.

Base material

According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises a binder.

The solid composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one binder.

"base" is intended to mean a compound which imparts increased cohesion to the cosmetic composition. This cohesion can be adjusted based on the amount and chemical affinity of the base relative to the ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

Typically, the base will be selected from caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as the products Labrafac CC (INCI: capric/caprylic acid triglycerides) or cetyl dimethicone (INCI).

The binder will be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the base will also have emollient properties.

Emulsifier

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers.

The oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier is an emulsifier having an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 and is selected from sorbitan esters (optionally polyethoxylated), glycerol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters or polyesters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyether modified polysiloxanes, polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ethers, alkyl polyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithins, fatty alcohols, sorbitan esters (this list is non-limiting), and mixtures thereof.

Mention will be made, by way of illustration, of the product Montanov 68 (INCI: cetostearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside), marketed by SEPPIC; the product Montanov L (INCI: C14-C22 alcohol & C12-20 alkyl glucoside), marketed by SEPPIC; montanov 202 (INCI: arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl alcohol), Citrol GMS 40 (INCI: glyceryl stearate), which is sold by CRODA; or product Imwitor 960K (INCI: glyceryl stearate), sold by BIESTERFELD; product Imwitor 372P (INCI: glyceryl citrate), sold by BIESTERFELD; the product gluconate SS (INCI: methyl glucose sesquistearate), sold by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.; plural stearique (polyglyceryl-6 distearate), Natragem E145 (INCI: polyglyceryl-4 laurate/succinate (and) water), sold by CRODA; the product Span 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate), which is sold by SIGMA ALDRICH.

Among the sorbitan esters, mention will be made, for example, of the product Span 20.

Among the fatty alcohols, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20).

The W/O emulsifier can advantageously be chosen from emulsifying systems consisting of cyclodextrins and water-in-oil emulsifiers of natural origin, such as those sold under the trade name Beaut é by Roquette Frese

DS 146.

Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers are emulsifiers with an HLB of less than 8 and are selected from the group consisting of non-ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters, and in particular from the group consisting of non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitol, non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of anhydrohexitol such as in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin and hydrolyzed starch.

Fatty phase tackifier

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty phase tackifier, that is to say a lipophilic or amphiphilic tackifier chosen from fatty alcohols.

Lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosifiers are intended to mean molecules or macromolecules capable of increasing the viscosity of oil without substantially modifying its physical or chemical properties.

Among the fatty alcohols mentioned are Lanete 16 (INCI: cetyl alcohol), Lanete O (INCI: cetostearyl alcohol).

Surface active agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from ionic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. These surfactants are selected for their detergent and foaming functions.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a carboxy anionic surfactant, a sulfate anionic surfactant, a sulfonate surfactant, a phosphate anionic surfactant and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group consisting of sulfonate anionic surfactants, carboxy anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

"anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In this specification, an entity is said to be "anionic" and does not contain any cationic charge when the entity has at least one permanent negative charge, or when the entity can be ionized to yield a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (e.g., ambient, pH). "anionic surfactant of sulphate type" is intended to mean an anionic surfactant (-OSO) comprising at least one sulphate functional group₃H or-OSO₃ ^-) And may optionally further comprise one or more other functional groups derived from an acid, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional groups (-COOH or-COO)^-) Sulfonate functional group (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And/or a phosphate functional group. For example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates,Monoglyceride sulfates and the salts of these compounds are sulfate type anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds, mentioned by way of example, contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group represents phenyl or benzyl. These compounds, which are mentioned by way of example, may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. By "non-sulphate anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant which does not fall within the definition of "sulphate anionic surfactant" as defined above.

According to the invention, it is also intended:

comprising at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO)^-) But does not include sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional groups (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) Nor a sulfate function (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-)；

Sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And may optionally further comprise one or more carboxylic acids or carboxylates (-COOH or-COO)^-) And/or phosphate functional groups, but not including sulfate functional groups (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-)。

-the phosphate anionic surfactant comprises at least one phosphoric acid or phosphate functional group (-OPO)₃H₂or-OPO₃ ^2-) But does not include carboxylic acid or carboxylate functionality (-COOH or-COO)^-) Nor sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional groups (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) Nor a sulfate function (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-)。

In other words:

for the purposes of the present invention, it is contemplated to comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-) And at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or-COO)^-) And, unless otherwise specified, is a sulfate type anionic surfactant.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is contemplated to comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-) And at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And, unless otherwise specified, is a sulfate type anionic surfactant.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is contemplated to comprise at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate function (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or-COO)^-) And, unless otherwise specified, a non-sulfate sulfonate anionic surfactant; for the purposes of the present invention, it is contemplated to comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO)₃H or-OSO₃ ^-) And at least one sulfonic acid or sulfonate functional group (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or-COO)^-) And, unless otherwise specified, is a sulfate type anionic surfactant.

The carboxy anionic surfactant may be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinate, acyl lactylate, acyl sarcosinate, acyl glutamate, alkyl-D-galacturonic acid, alkyl ether carboxylic acid, alkyl (aryl) ether carboxylic acid, alkyl amido ether carboxylic acid and salts of these compounds. The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 28, more preferably from 10 to 24, even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents phenyl or benzyl. These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may also be used, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citric acid esters, C6-C24-alkyl polyglycoside tartaric acid esters and salts thereof.

According to one embodiment, the anionic carboxy surfactant is selected from:

-an acyl glutamate, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl glutamate, such as stearoyl glutamate, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate, or cocoyl glutamate, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;

-acyl sarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as cocoyl sarcosinate, in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate, in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoyl sarcosinate, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;

acyl lactylates, especially C12-C28, or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates such as behenoyloxy lactylate, and especially sodium behenoyloxy lactylate, (iso) stearoyl lactylates, especially sodium (iso) stearoyl lactylate;

-C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 acyl glycinates, such as cocoyl glycinate, in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate;

- (C6-C30) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, especially (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids;

- (C6-C30) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, especially (C6-C24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;

- (C6-C30) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids;

-and mixtures thereof; especially in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or alkanolamines.

The sulfonate anionic surfactant may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidosulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, α -olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidosulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30, in particular from 12 to 28, even more preferably from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl groups preferably representing a phenyl or benzyl group, these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

According to one embodiment, the sulfonate anionic surfactant is selected from: C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinate; C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates; an alpha-olefin sulfonate; and mixtures thereof; especially in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or alkanolamines.

According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactant may be selected from monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and polyglycoside-dicarboxylic acids, such as alkyl glucoside citrate, alkyl polyglycoside tartrate and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate, alkyl sulfosuccinamate, acyl isethionate and N-acyl taurate, all of which preferably contain from 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group. Another group of anionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are acyl lactylates wherein the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galacturonic acids and salts thereof, and polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl) (C6-C24 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl) amido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

The phosphate anionic surfactant is selected from: C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl phosphates; C6-C24, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; and mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be chosen from secondary or tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may also be made of: (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, such as coco betaine; sulfobetaine, (C8-C20) alkyl sulfobetaine; (C8-C20) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine; or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C6-C8) alkylsulfobetaine.

Film forming agent

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one film-forming agent.

The film forming agent may be selected from polymers of natural origin or derivatives of natural products, such as Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) or synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and/or plasticizers other than polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, triethyl citrate, polysorbate or other waxes, such as carnauba wax or hydrogenated castor oil.

Mention may also be made of hydroxypropylated soy starches, Beaut é by

ST 720 as a film-forming agent.

Dye material

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dye chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, fillers having a colouring and/or opacifying effect on the composition and/or colouring keratinous substances (preferentially the skin), such as pigments, nacres, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral carrier) and mixtures thereof. These dyes may optionally be surface treated with hydrophobic agents such as silanes, siloxanes, fatty acid soaps, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate/silicon mixed copolymers, lecithin, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate, phytic acid.

"pigment" is intended to mean a white or colored, mineral or organic particle intended to color and/or to make the cosmetic composition opaque.

Among the pigments, mention will be made of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic pigments. Examples of pigments are especially iron, titanium or zinc oxide, and also composite pigments and magenta, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, where this list is non-limiting.

Among the pigments surface-treated with lecithin, the products UNIPURE WHITE LC981 HLC (INCI: CI 77891 (and) hydrogenated lecithin, UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 HLC (INCI: CI 77492 (and) hydrogenated lecithin), UNIPURE BLACK LC989 HLC (INCI: CI 77499 (and) hydrogenated lecithin), UNIPURE RED LC381HLC (INCI: CI 77491 (and) hydrogenated lecithin), from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, will be mentioned.

Among the pigments surface-treated with phytic acid, the products Unipure White LC 985PHY (INCI: CI 77891 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), Unipure Yellow LC 188 PHY (INCI: CI 77492 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), Unipure Red LC 388 PHY (INCI: CI 77491 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), Unipure Black LC 998 PHY (INCI: CI 77499 (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide) from sensor Cosmetic Technologies will be mentioned.

"perlite" is intended to mean any colored or non-colored pigmented particle having a color effect by optical interference.

Among the perlites, mention is made of titanium mica covered with metal oxides, such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic and/or care composition according to the invention comprises at least some colouring particles, preferably pigments, such as iron oxide pigments and/or perlite.

Filler material

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The term is intended to mean particles of any form (in particular spherical or lamellar), mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition. Examples of fillers are talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamides, silicone resins, silicone elastomer powders and acrylic polymer powders, in particular poly (methyl methacrylate) powders or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere powders from Dow).

Sensate

The sensate may modify the sensory characteristics of the cosmetic or dermatological composition to make it more pleasant to the user. The sensory agent may be selected from modified starches, such as carboxymethyl starch, e.g. from Roquette

ST 118, silica or talc or mixtures thereof. These sensates provide a soft feel to the solid composition or a cushioning effect for the composition in liquid or gel form.

Conditioning agent

The conditioning agent may be selected from cationic polymers such as polyquaterniums.

Active ingredient

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

As cosmetic active ingredients or cosmetically active ingredients or cosmetic active substances, mention may be made of anti-acne agents, sebum conditioners, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, keratin-degrading agents, keratin conditioners, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritants, antioxidants, anti-radical agents, healing agents, anti-aging agents, moisturizers, emollients, tonicity agents, depigmenting agents, mattifying agents, anti-staining agents, microcirculation stimulants, desquamating agents, tonicity agents, vitamins, minerals, ingredients or substances intended to clean or purify the skin, such as surfactants selected from those having no irritating effect on sebum.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetically active ingredient having emollient activity, such as an emollient.

As emollients and by way of illustration mention will be made of glyceryl stearate (INCI name), ODM (INCI: octyldodecyl myristate), product Lipocire A (INCI: C10-18 triglyceride), product lextens NS (INCI: diheptylsuccinate (and) capryloyl glycerol/sebacic acid copolymer), sold by INOLEX; the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric/caprylic triglyceride), sold by GATTEFOSSE; coconut oil esters, such as the product Tegosoft AC (INCI: isoamyl cocoate), sold by EVONIK; the product DUB VCl 10 (INCI: isodecyl neopentanoate) was obtained from STEARINERIE DUBOIS, Cetiol OE (INCI: dioctyl ether); the product Mango butter (INCI: Mango (Mango) seed oil).

Among the vitamins, mention may be made of tocopherols, e.g. products

T-70C (INCI: tocopherol), sold by BASF, can be used as an antioxidant.

The humectant will be selected from humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and lyotropic agents.

Among the film forming agents, in addition to the previously described film forming agents, collagen, elastin, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid will be mentioned.

Among the occlusive agents, mention will be made of petroleum jelly, paraffin, liquid vaseline, wheat germ oil, shea butter, beeswax.

Among lyotropic agents, mention may be made in particular of lanolin and its derivatives, ceramides, essential fatty acids.

According to a preferred embodiment, the humectant is a humectant selected from ethoxylated compounds, or as previously described, a humectant, preferably sorbitol. Reference will be made to the product Beaut é by

PO 070 (INCI: sorbitol) and Beaut é by

PO 160 (INCI: sorbitol), sold by ROQUETTE.

Among the ethoxylated compounds, mention is made of products based on glucose, methanol and sugar derivatives, such as Glucam, a product sold by LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS inc^TME-20 emollient.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emollient and/or at least one sebum conditioner and/or at least one other antibacterial agent.

Typically, the cosmetic active is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additive agent

The compositions according to the invention may comprise further ingredients, provided that they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other ingredients may be, for example, scrubs or exfoliants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: sodium benzoate), such as the product Microcare NB sold by Thor, or benzoic acid or potassium sorbate (INCI: potassium sorbate), such as the product Microcare KS also sold by Thor, or sorbic acid, pH conditioners such as citric acid, sodium hydroxide or arginine, antimicrobial agents, fragrances, sunscreens, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof.

Among the sunscreens, mention may be made, by way of illustration, of Solvaeil XT 300 (INCI: titanium dioxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid (and) alumina), from CRODA, EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: CI 77891& alumina & dimethicone), from Merck KGaA.

According to one embodiment, the emulsions, aqueous single-phase compositions, water-alcohol single-phase compositions and solid compositions according to the present invention will be prepared with "bio-based" ingredients. "biobased" is intended to mean a constituent whose renewable source of carbon atoms has a dry weight of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, and even more preferably at least 90% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of carbon atoms of the constituent.

The emulsions, aqueous single phase compositions, water-alcohol single phase compositions and solid compositions according to the present invention will be prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.

Detailed description of the preferred embodiments

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous single-phase composition consisting of, and preferably consisting of: water, a mixture of gluconic acid and succinic acid, and at least one other ingredient selected from the group consisting of: a sebum absorber; preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agents, such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and/or mineral gelling agents; surfactants, such as anionic or amphoteric surfactants; a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; a fragrance.

According to a first variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of:

-from 40% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

-from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

-from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant, such as an anionic surfactant or an amphoteric surfactant,

-0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other ingredient selected from: a sebum absorber; preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agent a hydrophilic organogelator, and/or an amphiphilic organogelator, and/or a mineral gelator; a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; an aromatic agent, which is a mixture of at least one aromatic agent,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

According to a second variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of:

-from 40% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

-from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to four surfactants selected from anionic or amphoteric surfactants,

-0.1 to 10% by weight of one to ten ingredients selected from: a sebum absorber; preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agents, such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and/or mineral gelling agents; a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; an aromatic agent, which is a mixture of at least one aromatic agent,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion and consists, preferably consists, of:

-water, which is water,

-one to three kinds of oils,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

-one to four surfactants selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

-one to ten ingredients selected from: sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioners, fragrances.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a microemulsion, consisting of, preferably consisting of:

-from 0.5% to 5% by weight of one to three oils relative to the total weight of the composition,

-from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to four surfactants selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

-from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to ten ingredients selected from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioners, fragrances,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a solid single phase and consists of:

-water in the form of water vapor,

-at least one oil, at least one of which,

-at least one wax or vegetable oil or a mixture thereof,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

-at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants,

-at least one further ingredient selected from: sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioners, fragrances.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of, preferably consists of:

-less than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

-from 10% to 60% by weight of one to three oils relative to the total weight of the composition,

-from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or two waxes or one or two vegetable oils or a mixture thereof,

-from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid

-from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to six surfactants selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the components is equal to 100%.

-water, which is water,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

-at least one further ingredient selected from: sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioners, fragrances,

the composition further comprises lauric acid or stearic acid or mixtures thereof.

According to a variant of the preceding embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of:

-from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one to ten ingredients selected from sebum absorbers, preservatives, gelling agents, sensates, humectants, emollients, moisturizers, dyes, film formers, occlusive agents, conditioners, fragrances

-from 1% to 20% by weight of lauric acid relative to the total weight of the composition and from 1% to 20% by weight of stearic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

Method for cleaning and/or removing a cosmetic product from a keratinous substance

Another subject of the present invention is a method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from a keratinous substance, in particular the skin, scalp or hair, which consists in applying to the keratinous substance, in particular the skin, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment of the method for cleaning and/or removing cosmetics from keratinous substances, the method comprises an additional and final step of rinsing preferentially with water.

According to one embodiment of the method for cleansing and/or removing a cosmetic product from a keratinous substance, the method is a "rinse-off application" process comprising the steps of:

-applying the cosmetic or dermatological composition,

-then leaving the cosmetic or dermatological composition on the keratinous substance, in which it is applied for a period ranging from 5 seconds or 10 seconds to 2 minutes or 5 minutes or 10 minutes, or the period required for the user to finish the application,

-then rinsing the keratinous substance preferentially with water, in order to eliminate the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

In contrast to the term "leave-on", the term "rinse-off application" is used in this document to indicate that the composition of the present invention is used in context, wherein the composition is eventually rinsed off or washed from the hair or skin upon application of a product, by leave-on product is meant a composition that is applied to the hair or skin and that does not undergo a rinsing step.

Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects

Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects.

Skin defects are understood to be aesthetic defects and are distinguished from pathological skin diseases. Among skin defects, mention is made of oily skin, greasy skin, oily skin, pore dilation, thick skin texture, redness, itching, loss of radiance, dull skin.

Cosmetic use for cleaning and/or removing cosmetics

Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or removing cosmetics from skin having skin defects or skin diseases such as acne.

Acne treatment

The invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for use in the treatment of skin diseases such as acne.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of skin diseases such as acne.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended for the treatment of skin diseases such as acne.

The invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of skin diseases such as acne comprising administering to a patient in need thereof a composition according to the invention.

Skin diseases such as acne will be distinguished from skin diseases that alone cause aesthetic discomfort. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous glands involving four closely related factors: hyperseborrhoea, hyperkeratosis, propionibacterium acnes proliferation and inflammation.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to treat skin diseases caused by hyperseborrhoea and/or hyperkeratosis and/or bacterial proliferation and/or inflammation of the Propionibacterium species

Therefore, a distinction is made between:

i) cosmetic skin imperfections, corresponding to oily skin characterized by the production or overproduction of sebum (seborrhea and excessive seborrhea) thereby producing an oily and greasy appearance. Skin texture is thick and pore dilation results in a dull appearance of skin tone because skin does not reflect light well. Occasionally, defects such as red spots and blackheads may occur. In the case of mixed skin, the gloss is mainly located on the middle part of the face: forehead, nose, chin, commonly referred to as T-zone;

ii) pathological skin diseases caused by the presence and/or proliferation and/or inflammation and/or hyperkeratosis and/or hyperseborrhoea of bacteria of the genus Propionibacterium, preferably Propionibacterium acnes. Comedogenic skin also has a shiny skin, dilated pores, but spots and blackheads remain and can pop out more frequently.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms, and when applied to acne they refer to a planned plan or program of action that, even with a low probability of success, should result in an overall beneficial effect, such as delaying the onset of the disease, or reducing the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilizing the disease.

In general, in the case of comedones, treatment is understood to delay the appearance, or reduce the severity, or even eliminate, of skin diseases such as blackbody comedones and/or superficial inflammatory lesions papules and pustules and deep inflammatory lesions (nodules) and/or propionibacterium acnes proliferation.

Excessive seborrhea of scalp

Normal hair corresponds to hair that is soft to the touch, soft and easy to smooth and style, has a glossy appearance and does not break. The scalp is also healthy without dandruff, irritation or redness. In this case, the sebaceous glands work normally, secreting a small amount of sebum to protect the scalp and lubricate the hair. However, sebaceous glands can be subject to internal imbalances or those caused by external aggressions, then leading to sebum producing diseases. Excessive seborrhea is a physiological phenomenon reflected by excessive sebum production. The excess sebum secreted spreads on the scalp but also along the hair shaft, rendering the hair oily and heavy. The amount of sebum present on the scalp can be measured by various devices known to those skilled in the art. Most are based on applying a translucent plate to the scalp to collect the sebum present and then measuring the amount of light transmitted through the plate.

Cosmetic use for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic hyper-seborrheic disorders of the scalp

The present invention relates to the cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention for preventing, reducing or eliminating cosmetic hyper-seborrheic disorders of the scalp.

Cosmetic hyperseborrhoea of the scalp is understood to be oily hair and its aesthetic drawbacks. Mention may be made of soft beds, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair and difficult to style hair. This will be distinguished from pathological hyperseborrhoea disorders of the scalp.

Treatment of pathological hyperseborrhoea disorders of the scalp

The invention also relates to a composition according to the invention for use in the treatment of pathological hyperseborrhoea disorders of the scalp.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for treating a pathological hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a medicament intended to treat a pathological hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp.

The invention also relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment of a pathological hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp, comprising administering to a patient in need thereof a composition according to the invention.

Among the pathological hyperseborrhoea disorders of the scalp, mention is made of seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

The terms "treatment" or "method of treatment" are not absolute terms and when applied to seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia, they refer to a planned action plan or procedure that, even with a low probability of success, should result in an overall beneficial effect, such as delaying the onset of the disease, or reducing the severity of one or more symptoms, or stabilizing the disease.

In general, in the case of seborrheic dermatitis, treatment is understood to delay the appearance, or reduce the severity or even make disappear, of white or yellowish scaly erythema covering the oily areas of the scalp that occur on seborrheic skin.

In general, in the case of seborrheic alopecia, treatment is understood to delay or reduce the loss of hair or even to make the hair loss disappear.

Therefore, a distinction is made between:

i) cosmetic hyper-seborrheic condition of the scalp, which is an aesthetic disorder only and is characterized by oily hair, soft tatting, dull, oily, dirty, sticky and unmarketable hair, and

ii) a pathological hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp, which may be seborrheic dermatitis or seborrheic alopecia.

Examples

Example 1: shower gel

In this example, a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion was prepared, which composition is reproduced in the form of a shower gel for cleaning in table 1 below.

[ Table 1]

Phase a1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase a1 with stirring while heating at 80 ℃ for 40 minutes. With stirring still, add phase a2 to phase a1, maintaining 80 ℃. Separately, phase B was prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase B with stirring at 80 ℃. Phase B was then added to phase A1+ A2 and stirred at 80 ℃ for 10 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 25 ℃ and then phases C and D were added. Finally, the pH is adjusted to a value greater than or equal to 4.6 using the ingredients of phase E.

Example 2: face cleanser

In this example, a cosmetic composition was prepared for cleansing and removal of cosmetics, which was prepared in the form of an aqueous single-phase solution. The compositions are described in table 2 below.

[ Table 2 ]]

Phase a was prepared by mixing the ingredients at 80 ℃ for 40 minutes, then the mixture was cooled to 25 ° and phase B was added. The pH is adjusted to a value greater than or equal to 4.6 using gluconolactone and sodium hydroxide.

Example 3: cleaning agent for cleaning face

In this example, a skin cleansing and cleansing fluid gel was prepared.

[ Table 3 ]]

The entire preparation was carried out at ambient temperature. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and sorbitol were mixed in water and gently stirred. The carboxymethyl starch was added with gentle stirring until the starch was hydrated. Then ingredients B and C were added continuously and then waiting until they were completely dissolved. Component D was then added continuously and then allowed to wait until it was completely dissolved. Component E was then added and then allowed to wait until it was completely dissolved. Finally, ingredients F, G and H were added.

Example 4: hair washing agent

In this example, a shampoo was prepared.

[ Table 4 ]]

Ingredient B was dispersed and dissolved in phase a with stirring, then ingredient C was added and left until uniform dispersion was achieved. Ingredients D to I were then added continuously and stirred gently until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. The pH was adjusted to 4.6-4.8 with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

Example 5: cleaning strip for body

In this example, three solid compositions for cleansing the body, referred to as "cleansing bars for the body", were prepared.

[ Table 5 ]]

Phase A was heated to 85-90 ℃ and then homogenized in a short time. Then cooling to 75-80 ℃ with stirring is carried out, and then ingredients B to E are continuously added with stirring. The mixture was transferred to a mold and allowed to cool to ambient temperature.

[ Table 6 ]]

[ Table 7 ]]

Phase B was prepared separately with gentle stirring in a bowl. Phase B was then added to phase a and mixed until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. Components C to H are then added continuously, leaving sufficient time to obtain a homogeneous dispersion. The resulting mixture was then placed in a bowl and allowed to stand at ambient temperature for 24 hours. The "soap" bars were obtained with visible crystals of sodium cocosulfate.

Example 6: bath cleanser for face and body

In this example, four bath cleaners were prepared in different forms of fluid: liquids, fluid gels, and thick gels.

[ Table 8 ]]: fluid gel cleanser 1

Magnesium aluminum silicate and xanthan gum were added sequentially to water heated to 65 ℃, with shear stirring, to thoroughly disperse. Stirring was maintained until complete hydration was achieved. The temperature was maintained at 65 ℃ and component B was added. And then cooled to ambient temperature. Then component C to component F were added in their order in table 8, waiting for complete dispersion between additions and avoiding incorporation of air. Finally, the pH is adjusted to 4.6-4.8 with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution.

[ Table 9 ]]: liquid cleaning agent

Ingredient B was added to phase a with stirring, then ingredient C was added, and the mixture was heated to 60 ℃. It was then cooled to ambient temperature and phases D to I were then added continuously with stirring.

[ Table 10 ]]: thick gels

Thick gel cleaners were prepared using the ingredients of table 10.

[ Table 11]: fluid gel cleanser 2

Fluid gel cleaners were prepared using the ingredients of table 11.

Example 7: effervescent bath powder

In this example, an effervescent bath powder was prepared.

[ Table 12 ]]: effervescent powder 1

An effervescent bath powder according to table 12 was prepared.

[ Table 13 ]]: effervescent powder 2

An effervescent bath powder according to table 13 was prepared.

Example 8: bath powder

In this example, two "additive powders" for bathing and one "foaming powder" for bathing were prepared.

[ Table 14 ]]: additive bath powder 1

An effervescent bath powder according to table 14 was prepared.

[ Table 15 ]]: additive bath powder 2

An effervescent bath powder according to table 15 was prepared.

[ Table 16 ]]: foaming bath powder

Foaming bath powders according to table 16 were prepared.

Example 9: cleaning and scrubbing for face and body

In this example, three cleansing gel abrasive cleaners for face and body were prepared.

[ Table 17 ]]: cleansing gel abrasive cleaner 1

A fluid cleansing gel abrasive cleaning formulation according to table 17 was prepared.

[ Table 18 ]]: cleansing gel abrasive cleaner 2

A fluid cleansing gel abrasive cleaning formulation according to table 18 was prepared.

[ Table 19 ]]: cleansing gel abrasive 3

A fluid cleansing gel abrasive cleaning formulation according to table 19 was prepared.

Example 10: "bath" body cream or lotion

In this example, three lotions for use in bathing and one cream for use in bathing were prepared and rinsed after use.

[ Table 20]: bath foam 1

A "body wash" according to table 20 was prepared in the form of a white cream.

[ Table 21]: bath foam 2

The "body wash" according to table 21 was prepared in the form of a white cream.

[ Table 22 ]]: bath foam 3

The "body wash" according to table 22 was prepared in the form of a white cream.

[ Table 23 ]]: shower cream

The "bath oil" according to table 22 was prepared in the form of a white cream.

Example 11: cleaning agent in solid form

In this example, a detergent in solid form was prepared: cleansing bars for the hair and body, cleansing bars containing activated carbon, and solid soaps.

[ Table 24 ]]: hair and body cleansing bar

Cleansing bars for hair and body according to table 24 were prepared.

[ Table 25 ]]: cleaning strip containing activated carbon

The ingredients of phase a were combined in a mixing bowl. It was heated to 80-85 ℃ with stirring. This temperature was maintained. Phase B was then added. The ingredients of phase C were mixed separately and then the premix was added to the contents of the bowl. Components D to G were then added successively. When the mixture is sufficiently homogenized, the formulation is poured into a mold and then cooled to ambient temperature. A solid bar is obtained.

[ Table 26]: solid soap

Solid soaps according to table 26 were prepared.

Example 12: cleaning spray for body

In this example, a water-alcohol solution is prepared that can be used in a spray for the body, which is rinsed after application.

[ Table 27 ]]: spray 1

A biphasic spray according to table 27 was prepared.

[ Table 28]: spray 2

Single phase liquid sprays according to table 28 were prepared.

Example 13: solution for cleaning wipes

In this example, a solution for impregnating the cleaning wipe was prepared.

[ Table 2 ]9]

Solutions were prepared that were capable of impregnating cleaning wipes according to table 29.

Example 14: "sulfate free" wash solutions for face and body

[ Table 30 ]]

A detergent solution without sulphate type surfactant according to table 30 was prepared.

Example 15: hair and body cleanser

[ Table 31 ]]

Hair and body cleansers according to table 31 were prepared.

Claims

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing and/or removing cosmetics from keratinous substances, in a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising:

-a source of at least one of succinic acid,

-and at least one monocarboxylic acid or salt thereof, selected from linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, the carbon chain of said at least one monocarboxylic acid consisting of 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms and most preferably 6 carbon atoms.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one monocarboxylic acid is gluconic acid.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of carboxyanionic surfactants, sulphate-type anionic surfactants, sulphonate anionic surfactants and phosphate anionic surfactants.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the succinic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight and still more preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gluconic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, comprising: at least one sebum absorber of vegetable origin selected from natural or modified cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, natural or modified granular starch, natural or modified cyclodextrin, dextrin and maltodextrin; and/or at least one sebum absorber of mineral origin, such as clays and silica and salts thereof; and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic and/or lipophilic and/or amphiphilic and/or mineral gelling agents.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or in the form of a microemulsion.

11. The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one emulsifier selected from the group consisting of oil-in-water emulsifiers or water-in-oil emulsifiers.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in the form of a cleansing cream, mousse, milk, facial cleanser, scrub.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in the form of an application for rinse-off applications, selected from: shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, essence, mousse, balm, cream, spray, hair conditioner, hair relaxer, hair cream.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous single-phase composition, a water-alcohol single-phase composition or a solid single-phase composition.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that it is an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic single-phase composition and in that it comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from hydrophilic and/or amphiphilic and/or mineral gelling agents.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that it is in the form of a cleansing gel such as a shower gel, a facial cleanser, a lotion, an abrasive lotion.

17. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that it is in the form of a liquid shampoo, lotion, gel, rinse-off product.

18. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the composition is a solid composition and in that it comprises at least one binder.

19. The composition of claim 18, wherein the composition is in the form of a dry soap.

20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the solid composition is in the form of a dry shampoo.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emollient and/or sebum regulator and/or at least one other antibacterial agent.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of: preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; a sensate; a humectant; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; a fragrance.

23. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition is an aqueous single-phase composition consisting of a mixture of water, gluconic acid and succinic acid and at least one other ingredient selected from: a sebum absorber; preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agents, such as hydrophilic organic gelling agents and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents and/or mineral gelling agents; surfactants such as anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants; a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; a fragrance.

24. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of:

-0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one other ingredient selected from: a sebum absorber; preservatives, such as benzoic acid, sorbic acid and salts or mixtures thereof; gelling agent hydrophilic gelling agent and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agent and/or mineral gelling agent; a sensate; a humectant; an emollient; a humectant; a dye; a film-forming agent; an occlusive agent; a conditioning agent; fragrance, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

25. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a microemulsion and in that it consists of:

-water, which is water,

-one to three kinds of oils,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

26. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a microemulsion and in that it consists of:

-from 40% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

27. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid single phase and in that it consists of:

-water, which is water,

-at least one oil, at least one of which,

-at least one wax or vegetable oil or a mixture thereof,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

28. Composition according to claim 1 or 27, characterized in that it consists of:

-from 5% to 50% by weight of one to six surfactants selected from anionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition,

the sum of the percentages by weight of all the constituents is equal to 100%.

29. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid single phase and in that it consists of:

-water, which is water,

-a mixture of succinic acid and gluconic acid,

30. Composition according to claim 1 or 30, characterized in that it consists of:

-from 1% to 20% by weight of lauric acid and from 1% to 20% by weight of stearic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, the sum of the percentages by weight of all the ingredients being equal to 100%.

31. A method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from a keratinous substance, in particular skin, scalp or hair, consisting in applying to said keratinous substance, in particular skin, scalp or hair, a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

32. The method of claim 31, comprising the additional step of preferentially rinsing with water.

33. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30 for cleaning and/or removing makeup from skin having skin defects.

34. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30 for preventing, reducing or eliminating skin defects such as oily skin, greasy skin, oily skin, pore dilation, thick skin texture, loss of shine, dull skin.

35. The dermatological composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19 or 23 to 30 for use in the treatment of a skin disease, such as acne.

36. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20 or 23 to 30 for preventing, reducing or eliminating a cosmetic hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp.

37. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use according to claim 33, characterized in that said hypercosmetic seborrheic disorder is oily hair, soft hair, dull, oily, dirty, sticky hair and difficult-to-style hair.

38. The dermatological composition according to any one of claims 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20 or 23 to 30 for use in the treatment of a pathologic hyperseborrhoea disorder of the scalp, such as seborrhea or seborrheic alopecia.