KR101259452B1 - Nanoemulsion emulsifier and cosmetic composition comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a nanoemulsion emulsifier and a cosmetic composition containing the same. The nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention is easily emulsified in a fast time, not heavy and good feeling when applying the skin, without discoloration or separation under all conditions such as room temperature, high temperature (45 ℃), fluorescence, ultraviolet light, daylight, light blocking It is stable, does not cause odor, and has a very good moisturizing effect. In addition, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can reduce the unit cost by about 50% compared to the lecithin used as the conventional emulsifier in the cosmetic composition is excellent in cost reduction effect. Therefore, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can be usefully used as an emulsifier by replacing lecithin in the cosmetic composition.

Description

Nanoemulsion emulsifier and cosmetic composition comprising the same

The present invention relates to a nanoemulsion emulsifier and a cosmetic composition containing the same.

Cosmetics are required for various functions such as keeping the skin and pores healthy, removing dirt from the skin and hair, and protecting the body from ultraviolet rays and drying. Since cosmetics are formulated by combining materials that do not dissolve together, such as water-soluble components and oil-soluble components, the role of emulsion dispersion technology is very important. In particular, since many skin cosmetics and hair cosmetics are intended to apply oil and water to the skin and hair at the same time, it takes a lot of emulsion form, and because the purpose and method of use are also divided, various emulsification techniques have been developed.

In the research on the conventional emulsification technology, attention has been focused on the preparation method and the stabilization method of the emulsion. D-phase emulsification and HLB temperature emulsification have been mainly used as a method for preparing an emulsion, and the emulsification is a method for effectively preparing a fine emulsion by interfacial chemically lowering the interfacial tension. In addition, with the development of an emulsifying apparatus having a strong shearing force, such as a high pressure emulsifier, the fine emulsion can be easily produced. Regarding the stability, effective means have been developed such as prevention of creaming by emulsification of emulsified particles and prevention of flocculation and coalescence by forming α-gel and liquid crystal at the emulsion interface.

Recently, with the progress of emulsification technology, the direction of research is moving beyond the area of emulsion production and stabilization to the new value of cosmetics brought by the development of emulsification technology. For example, even if it is possible to change the appearance into creams, lotions, and lotions according to the emulsification technique even in the same prescription, it will be able to cope with the usage and the user's feeling while retaining the function of the prescription. In addition, the emulsion has a variety of changes occur as the physical force is applied in the process of use, the composition changes, and the feel of use also changes. Therefore, when it becomes possible to control the change in physical properties in the use process by changing the form of the emulsion can produce a new feeling. Furthermore, skin care cosmetics may be formulated with various additives such as whitening and anti-aging. Some of the additives are unstable for hydrolysis and the like, and if it is possible to increase the stability in the cosmetic formulation by optimizing the emulsion system, it may lead to the development of cosmetics with increased functionality. This thinking method is not only a thinking method of emulsifying a material which is a conventional demand, but also an attempt to create a value which has never been achieved by changing the shaping type of emulsion particles.

Emulsions are in a state where the insoluble liquids are evenly dispersed and thermodynamically unstable. Since the interfacial area is significantly increased, the free energy is high, and if left for a long time, the free energy is low, that is, the interfacial area is reduced, and is finally separated through a process such as aggregation, creaming, and coalescence. Typically, the stability of the emulsion depends on the size and composition of the particles.

Nanoemulsion refers to a dispersion system of a liquid having a particle size of 20 to 200 nm, and is composed of a liquid crystal interfacial film with small particles, and is used as a drug carrier because it has excellent skin absorbency and works well on the skin. In particular, the nano-cosmetic particles are 50nm small and its components are similar to the skin tissue constructs absorbed into the skin cells is a high-performance product that is spotlighted because of the superior quality than general emulsified products.

Generally, nanoemulsions are prepared by high pressure (500-1,600 atmospheres) emulsification. The principle of operation is that when the emulsion produced through the primary emulsification passes through a high pressure emulsifier, it generally passes through a gap having a diameter of several tens of micrometers, so that the flow rate of the emulsion increases rapidly and the dynamic hydraulic pressure simultaneously increases. However, at room temperature, the static pressure decreases below the boiling point of the water, causing the water to boil at room temperature, and the resulting bubbles explode as the emulsion passes through the gap, crushing the larger emulsion particles into smaller sizes. The average particle diameter produced in this process decreases in proportion to the number of passes of the high pressure emulsification and is affected by the type of polymer used, the type and amount of oil used.

Recently, the mainstream of cosmetic technology has been concentrated on the development of functional cosmetics that can exhibit excellent efficacy. Functional cosmetics can be said to be a cosmetic containing a material having a physiological activity, and the market size has grown rapidly over the past few years, and now plays a role in driving the growth of the overall cosmetics market.

Therefore, by combining nanotechnology with functional cosmetic formulation technology, it is expected to stabilize physiochemically labile bioactive substances at the molecular level and to minimize skin side effects by maximizing desired efficacy by selectively absorbing only active substances into the skin. . That is, the biologically active material is contained in nanoparticles having a diameter of 10 to 200 nm and carrierized, and if necessary, the surface properties of the nanoparticle carrier can be modified to be suitable for skin properties, thereby selectively delivering the biologically active ingredient to a desired site. It is.

High-pressure emulsification technology using MF (Micro Fluidizer) has the advantage of producing a stable nanoemulsion while using a minimum amount of emulsifier, has been widely used in the research to develop a new formulation that is stable to the skin and can control skin absorption. In particular, nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics can be useful in many ways, because the nano emulsification system is nano-level droplet formation (average diameter of droplets: 20 ~ 500nm), high lipid content by high pressure emulsification And conditions such as coexistence of liposome structure, suitable for useful ingredient delivery, reduction of TEWL and enhancement of skin disease function, increase of percutaneous absorption of active ingredient, translucent emulsion and the like.

In general, lecithin, which is a core emulsifier used in the formation of nanoemulsions, has been widely used in medicines and foods since it has been separated and purified from egg yolk and soybean, but in recent years, lecithin extracted from vegetable soybean has a large number of double bonds of carbon. The unsaturated lecithin present is very unstable in oxidative stability and has been used to improve hydrogenated lecithin, ie saturated lecithin, stabilized by the addition of hydrogen. As such, hydrogenated lecithin has the advantage of being chemically stable and less irritant to the skin because most of it is composed of saturated fatty acids, but has the disadvantage of being discolored, discolored and very expensive. Thus, research and development are needed to overcome not only the stability of the raw materials but also the disadvantages of saturated lecithin.

Therefore, there is an urgent need for the development of nanoemulsion emulsifiers having stable nanoparticle size that can replace lecithin and compensate for the disadvantages of discoloration, discoloration and expensiveness of lecithin used as core emulsifiers in nanoemulsions.

The present inventors are working to develop a nanoemulsion emulsifier that can replace lecithin by supplementing the disadvantages of discoloration, discoloration and expensive of the lecithin used as an emulsifier in the nanoemulsion, while polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate , A methyl emulsion emulsifier consisting of methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetearyl glucoside and butylene glycol was prepared, and do not cause discoloration, odor, separation of the nanoemulsion emulsifier, excellent stability, transparent, moisturizing effect It confirmed that it was very excellent and completed this invention.

The present invention seeks to provide a nanoemulsion emulsifier and a cosmetic composition containing the same.

1 is a view of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention observed with a camera.
2 is a diagram measuring the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of Example 1 of the present invention.
3 is a diagram measuring the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of Example 2 of the present invention.
4 is a diagram measuring the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of Example 3 of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a view illustrating the properties of the nanoemulsion emulsifier after storing the sample containing the nanoemulsion emulsifier of Example 1 of the present invention at room temperature and high temperature (45 ° C.) for 30 days, respectively.
Figure 6 is a view of the observation of the properties of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion of the present invention with a camera.
7 is a view showing a measurement result of the skin moisture content of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention.
8 is a view showing a measurement result of the skin moisture loss amount of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention.

The present invention provides a nanoemulsion emulsifier consisting of polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, methylglucose sesquistearate, cetearylglucoside and butylene glycol.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion emulsifier.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention is 70 to 80% by weight of polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, 1 to 10% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1 to 10% by weight of cetearylglucoside and butylene glycol 1 It is characterized by consisting of 15% by weight.

The polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate is a component obtained by condensation polymerization of methyl glucose and polyglycerol, followed by stearic acid and di-ester reaction. As an emulsifier for O / W emulsions with bright white appearance and excellent applicability, it has high compatibility with active ingredients, stable at pH 4.5 ~ 8.5, stable against high and cold temperatures, and waterproof. Excellent effect and moisturizing power. The content of the polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate is preferably 70 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier. If the content of polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate is less than 70% by weight, the nanoemulsion is difficult to form, and if it exceeds 80% by weight, the viscosity tends to be too high.

The methyl glucose sesquistearate is used as a softener in cosmetics. The content of the methyl glucose sesquistearate is preferably 1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier. If the content of methyl glucose sesquistearate is less than 1% by weight, the nanoemulsion is difficult to form, and if it exceeds 10% by weight, the viscosity tends to be too high.

The cetearyl glucoside is a vegetable-derived PEG-free emulsifier, imparts good spreadability and good touch to the emulsion, has excellent moisturizing properties, is stable at 25 ° C. to + 50 ° C., and is different during emulsion preparation. No auxiliary emulsifier is required. The content of cetearyl glucoside is preferably 1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier. If the content of cetearyl glucoside is less than 1% by weight, the nanoemulsion is difficult to form, and if it exceeds 10% by weight, the viscosity tends to be too high.

Butylene glycol (butylene glycol) is a viscous material that has no taste or smell, has excellent moisture retention, and is used as a moisturizing agent in cosmetics because it has a feeling of freshness and little stickiness. The content of the butylene glycol is preferably 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier. If the content of butylene glycol is less than 1% by weight, the nanoemulsion is difficult to form, and if it exceeds 15% by weight, the viscosity tends to be too high.

The nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention was added to polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate and methylglucose sesquistearate in a production kiln and completely dissolved while maintaining the temperature at 75-80 ° C., followed by cetearyl The mixed solution in which glucoside is dissolved in butylene glycol is slowly added to the solution, stirred until it becomes clear, and then the transparent solution is prepared by vacuum defoaming and gradually cooling. Thus prepared nanoemulsion emulsifier is a flake type, the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifier is preferably 100 ~ 400nm.

The nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention is easily emulsified in a fast time, not heavy and good feeling when applying the skin, without discoloration or separation under all conditions such as room temperature, high temperature (45 ℃), fluorescence, ultraviolet light, daylight, light blocking It is stable, does not cause odor, and has a very good moisturizing effect. In addition, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can reduce the unit cost by about 50% compared to the lecithin used as the conventional emulsifier in the cosmetic composition is excellent in cost reduction effect. Therefore, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can be usefully used as an emulsifier by replacing lecithin in the cosmetic composition.

In the cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion emulsifier according to the present invention, the nanoemulsion emulsifier is preferably included 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the nanoemulsion emulsifier is less than 0.1% by weight, the moisturizing effect and skin affinity effect is reduced, if it exceeds 10% by weight it is difficult to prepare a cosmetic formulation there is a fear that the cosmetic value is reduced.

The formulation of the cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion emulsifier provided in the present invention is not particularly limited and may be used for skin, mucous membranes, scalp or hair. For example, basic cosmetics, such as softening water, nutrient cream, lotion, cream, pack, gel, a patch; Color cosmetics such as lipstick, makeup base and foundation; Cleaning agents such as shampoos, rinses, body cleansers, toothpastes, and mouthwashes; It can be manufactured by the formulation of cosmetic composition for hair, such as hair tonic, gel, mousse, hair dressing, hair dye, etc. In addition, it can be widely applied to medicines and quasi-drugs such as lotions, ointments, gels, creams, patches or sprays.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in order to facilitate understanding of the present invention. However, the following examples are provided only for the purpose of easier understanding of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited by the examples.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3  : Preparation of Nanoemulsion Emulsifier

Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate and methylglucose sesquistearate were added to the production kiln and completely dissolved while maintaining the temperature at 75 to 80 ° C. The mixed solution in which cetearyl glucoside was dissolved in butylene glycol was slowly added thereto and stirred until it became clear. The clear solution was then vacuum degassed and slowly cooled to prepare a nanoemulsion emulsifier. The shape of the prepared nanoemulsion emulsifier was observed with an IXUS 850 IS camera (Canon), and the particle size of the prepared nanoemulsion emulsifier was confirmed using a particle size analyzer (Zetas 3000HS from Malvern). The composition ratio of the components of the nanoemulsion emulsifier is shown in Table 1.

The photograph of observing the shape of the nanoemulsion emulsifier prepared in Example 1 with a camera is shown in Figure 1, the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1 to 3 are shown in Figures 2 to 4, respectively. .

Raw material name Example (% by weight) Comparative example (contents%) One 2 3 One 2 3 Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate
(PMD) 75 75 75 60 75 75 Methylglucose sesquistearate (PS) 10 10 5 30 15 5 Cetearylglucoside (CG) 5 10 5 5 5 15 Butylene Glycol (BG) 10 5 15 5 5 5

As shown in Figures 1 to 4, the shape of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention was confirmed to be a flake type, the particle size of the nanoemulsion emulsifiers of Examples 1, 2 and 3 was 219.4nm, 226.2nm, 360.8nm, respectively Confirmed.

Experimental Example 1  : Stability Test of Nanoemulsion Emulsifier

In order to confirm the properties, discoloration, and odor of the nanoemulsion emulsion of the present invention, the following experiment was performed.

1-1. Cosmetic formulation (cream) containing nanoemulsion emulsifier

The components of the water phase part and the oil phase part shown in Table 2 below were heated and dissolved at 70 to 75 ° C, respectively. The oil phase was put in the water phase and first emulsified with a homomixer for 5 minutes with stirring. The first emulsified product was cycled twice at 600-700 bar using a Microfludizer C10523 high pressure emulsifier (Microfluidics) while maintaining a temperature of about 80 ℃. Subsequently, post-attachment A was added while slowly cooling the temperature to about 40 ° C., and further stirred for 5 minutes with a homomixer. Lecithin was used as a control instead of the nanoemulsion emulsifier.

division Raw material name Content (% by weight) Water top Purified water 33.55 Supercritical Situation 1.00 Supercritical milk extract 1.00 Rye extract 1.00 Methyl paraben 0.20 Propylparaben 0.05 Floating Triethylhexanone 46.00 Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 3.00 Pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate 5.00 Nanoemulsion Emulsifier 6.00 Post Attachment A Combination incense 0.2

1-2. Properties of Nanoemulsion Emulsifiers

After storing the cream sample containing 6% by weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier prepared in 1 to 1 at room temperature and high temperature (45 ° C.) for 30 days, the properties of the nanoemulsion emulsifier were transferred to an IXUS 850 IS camera (Canon). Observed. Observation photographs are shown in FIG. 5.

1-3. Discoloration degree of nanoemulsion emulsifier

Nanoemulsion after storing the cream sample containing 6% by weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier prepared in 1 to 1 in fluorescence (30 days), ultraviolet (7 days), daylight (7 days), light blocking (30 days) The degree of discoloration of the emulsifier was visually observed.

1-4. Deodorization degree of nanoemulsion emulsifier

After the cream sample containing 6% by weight of the nanoemulsion emulsifier prepared in 1 to 1 was stored at a high temperature (45 ℃) for 30 days, the degree of odor of the nanoemulsion emulsifier was observed.

As a result of the stability test, the nanoemulsion emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1 to 3 were easily emulsified in a short time, and were not heavy and good for skin application. In addition, under all conditions such as room temperature, high temperature (45 ° C.), fluorescence, ultraviolet ray, sunlight, light blocking, and the like, there was no discoloration or separation, and no odor was generated.

On the other hand, the emulsifier of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of Comparative Example 1 was well emulsified, but when applied to the skin there was a stiff feeling and the skin absorption was slow. However, it was stable under all conditions and no malodor occurred. In addition, the emulsifiers of the nanoemulsion emulsifiers of Comparative Examples 2 to 3 were well emulsified and shaved clean well, but when applied to the skin, there was a little heavy feeling, and it was stable under all conditions, but the oil came out after 30 days at high temperature. Did not occur.

In addition, in the case of the lecithin as a control group, the emulsification was easily performed quickly and stable without discoloration or separation under all conditions, but the color became dark after 7 days in ultraviolet rays, and the characteristic odor of lecithin occurred after 30 days at high temperature. It was.

Experimental Example 2  : Skin Moisturizing Effect of Nanoemulsion Emulsifier

In order to confirm the skin moisturizing effect of the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention, the following experiment was performed.

First, a nanoemulsion sample, a gel emulsion sample, and a general emulsion sample were prepared with the composition shown in Table 3 below. Then, 1.0 mg / ml of each sample was uniformly applied to the upper heads of the seven volunteers waiting in the room at constant temperature and humidity conditions (20-22 ° C., 40-60% relative humidity) 30 minutes before the start of the experiment. Immediately after, skin moisture content was measured by CORNEOMETER CM 825 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany) and skin moisture loss was measured by TEWAMETER TM210 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany). Subsequently, the skin moisture content and the skin moisture loss amount were measured after 1 day, 3 days, 7 days, and 14 days after the control site and each test material application site. The measured capacitance values were converted into arbitrary capacitance units (a.u.) between 0 and 120, and the measured TEWL was expressed in g / h / m 2. The properties of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion of the present invention were observed with an IXUS 850 IS camera (Canon).

The properties of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion of the present invention are shown in Figure 6, the skin moisture content and skin moisture loss amount of the nanoemulsion emulsion of the present invention is shown in Figures 7 and 8, respectively.

Sample content (% by weight) Nano emulsion Gel emulsion General emulsion Control group Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 glycerin 7 7 7 - Nanoemulsion Emulsifier
(Example 1) 6 - - - Polysorbate 20 - - 2 - Glyceryl stearate - - 3 - Sepigel 305 - 0.3 - - antiseptic 0.3 0.3 0.3 - Squalene 10 10 10 - Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5 5 5 -

As shown in Figure 6, the general emulsion sample is difficult to transmit light because the particle size of several thousand nano-size shows an opaque white cream, whereas the nanoemulsion sample of the present invention is about 200nm As a result, a certain amount of light can be transmitted to show an emulsion having transparency compared to a general emulsion sample.

In addition, as shown in FIG. 7 and FIG. 8, in the case of the nanoemulsion sample, the skin moisture content was decreased after 3 days, and the amount of skin moisture loss was sharply dropped. Therefore, it can be seen that the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention has a very good moisturizing effect.

The nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention is easily emulsified in a fast time, not heavy and good feeling when applying the skin, without discoloration or separation under all conditions such as room temperature, high temperature (45 ℃), fluorescence, ultraviolet light, daylight, light blocking It is stable, does not cause odor, and has a very good moisturizing effect. In addition, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can reduce the unit cost by about 50% compared to the lecithin used as the conventional emulsifier in the cosmetic composition is excellent in cost reduction effect. Therefore, the nanoemulsion emulsifier of the present invention can be usefully used as an emulsifier by replacing lecithin in the cosmetic composition.

Claims (5)

Nano consisting of 70 to 80% by weight of polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, 1 to 10% by weight of methylglucose sesquistearate, 1 to 10% by weight of cetearylglucoside and 1 to 15% by weight of butylene glycol Emulsion emulsifiers. delete According to claim 1, wherein the nanoemulsion emulsifier is a nanoemulsion emulsifier, characterized in that having a particle size of 100 ~ 400nm. Cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion emulsifier of any one of Claims 1-3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the nanoemulsion emulsifier is included in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

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