KR100772341B1 - Cosmetics containing niosome stabilized Phellodendron amurense, Cortex mori, Radix polygoni multiflori and Radix glycyrrhizae extracts and Method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a niobium stabilized herbal extract excellent in skin moisturizing and skin penetration effect and a color cosmetic composition containing the same. Radix Glycyrrhizae) Niosomes stabilized extracts to niosomes to maximize the active ingredient, and stabilized herbal extracts to improve the adhesion, spreading, and persistence of powders by surface treatment of niosomes on powders according to the formulation It is about cosmetics.

Description

Cosmetic composition and method for preparing a cosmetic composition containing niosomes stabilized herbal extracts {Cosmetics containing niosome stabilized Phellodendron amurense, Cortex mori, Radix polygoni multiflori and Radix glycyrrhizae extracts and Method}

The present invention relates to a color cosmetic composition and a manufacturing method containing niosomes stabilized herbal extracts.

People with healthy skin are active in the synthesis and collagen maintenance of collagen (collagen), which plays an important role in promoting skin elasticity and suppressing wrinkle formation in fibroblasts of dermis due to the active physiological activity of skin cells. Synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGS), a glycoprotein containing essential hyaluronic acid, is active to give skin elasticity, softness, flexibility and moisturizing properties. In epidermis, the proliferation of basal layer cells is active, and the production of adhesion proteins such as laminin, integrin, and desmosome, which enhance the binding between skin cells, is balanced. It strengthens skin tissue and keeps healthy skin.                         

However, the skin of modern man is exposed to various harmful environment and stresses and suffers various damages. As the body ages, the skin's physiological activity decreases and the damaged skin's recovery rate slows down, the skin loses elasticity, dryness, wrinkle formation, Various skin aging symptoms such as dullness are encountered.

Therefore, various cosmetics have been developed to improve the aging symptoms as described above, and as part of the above development, bioactive components in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and foods can be delivered without breaking, and fat-soluble and water-soluble bioactive components Liposomes that can contain all of them are used.

Liposomes are largely divided into multi-lamellar lipicles (MLV) and monolamellar vesicles (ULV: Unilamella vesicles). .

The MLV, LUV, and SLV are 400-3,500 nm, 100-1,000 nm, and 20-50 nm in size, respectively, and the amounts that can be contained in liposomes are 5-15%, 36-65%, and 0.5-1.0%. The amount of bioactive substances that can be contained is the most LUV but unstable, SLV is the most stable but the amount that can contain less. In addition, the human skin structure has a structure of a multilamellar (Multilamella) MLV has a skin affinity, but the size is too large, it is difficult to penetrate the skin.

In order to compensate for the above disadvantages, the present inventors used a niosome which is a special kind of liposome that is currently used in a drug delivery system by stabilizing a bioactive component in the pharmaceutical field, and the niosome has a size It is easy to penetrate the skin at 10-200nm and can contain excessive water-soluble components and is stable compared to liposomes. In addition, liposomes are formed by phospholipids, while niosomes use sphingolipid derivatives such as ceramide, cerebromide, sphingomyelin, and vesicles. Formed and stabilized the sulfur white, baekbaekpi, sewage, licorice extract of the present invention in this vesicle to complete the present invention.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, by enhancing the physiological activity of the skin degraded from the external environment, such as ultraviolet rays, environmental pollution, stress, irregular lifestyle and lack of exercise, to enhance the moisturizing effect, skin penetration effect To provide a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes stabilized Phellodendron amurense, Cortex mori, Sadix polygoni multiflori, Licorice (Radix Glycyrrhizae) extract.

In addition, the present invention is to provide a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes that improve the overall usability, such as spreadability, persistence, adhesion through the powder surface treatment of niosomes according to the formulation.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is characterized by stabilizing by containing 0.1-10% by weight relative to the total weight of niosome, extracts of yellow white, baekryepi, sewage, licorice in niosome.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention in more detail as follows.

The present invention relates to a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes stabilized with Phellodendron amurense, Cortex mori, Radix polygoni multiflori, Licorice (Radix Glycyrrhizae) extract.

Phellodendri radix is the bark of Huangbaek (Rutaceae) which is a plant of Rhyanghyang. It is cold in nature and has no poison. It mainly eliminates the heat, jaundice, and devices gathered in the intestine and intestine. Diarrhea and dysentery, baekbyeongdae, heals the food window, kills the worms, scabies and ringworms, fever and soreness in the eyes, heals the sick, and the mouth is used to relieve fever. In addition, it contains flavonoids and alkaloids, so it is excellent in UV protection and antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antiviral effects on the skin.

In addition, Cortex mori is dried mulberry root of the mulberry plant is excellent in whitening effect, the removal of harmful oxygen and antioxidant effect is excellent.

In addition, sewage (Radix polygoni multiflori) is a dried grass root of plants and plants sewage, activates skin cells to make skin clear and healthy, and has the function of smoothing skin penetration of active ingredients.

In addition, the licorice (Radix Glycyrrhizae) is dried root and leaves of the legume licorice, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic action to strengthen the skin immunity, collagen synthesis enhances skin elasticity. In addition, by promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid to strengthen the skin moisturizing effect, has a whitening effect to actively inhibit melanin production, and also has a function to block ultraviolet rays.

The niosomes used in the present invention have a closed double-layer structure obtained by high pressure emulsification using a mixture of stable nonionic surfactants, co-emulsifiers, cholesterol, cholesteryl esters and soysterol, wherein the sulfur white, baekbaekpi, sewage The herbal extract obtained from licorice is formulated at 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of niosomes to stabilize the active ingredient. At this time, the yellow white, baekbaekpi, sewage, licorice extract in niosomes are contained in 0.01-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of niosomes.

Looking at the niosome composition in detail as follows.

The nonionic surfactant may be blended alone or in combination with polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ester, saccharose diester, etc., in an amount of 10-50% by weight, preferably 30-40% by weight, based on the total weight of niosomes. . At this time, only the nonionic surfactant can not expect the role of the lipids of the skin to give the amphiphilic properties by binding the ceramide to the glycerin skeleton in order to resemble the natural lipid component, the ceramide is 0.1 to the total weight of the niosome -10 wt%, preferably 0.1-3.0 wt%.

In addition, the auxiliary emulsifier is blended in 1-50% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight based on the total weight of niosomes with diglycerol.

In addition, cholesterol, cholesteryl ester and soysterol are blended in an amount of 30-80% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight, based on the total weight of niosomes. At this time, cholesteryl non-nanoate, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl isostearyl carbonate, etc. are used for cholesteryl ester.

Niosome stabilized as described above is not particularly limited in the formulation, water-in-oil or oil-in-water makeup base, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, lip gloss, face powder, two-way cake, eye shadow, teak color, eyebrow pencil 0.1-30 weight% with respect to the whole composition of makeup cosmetics, such as Ryu.

In particular, the present invention relates to both the method of using niobium as it is in the formulation and the method of surface-treating the powder, and the phenomenon that the aggregation of powder is promoted when niosome itself is used as a binder in the powder and the water component over time This somewhat volatilized disadvantage can be solved through surface treatment.

The following is described in more detail with reference to the following embodiments of the present invention configured as described above. However, these examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples. Compounding amount is shown by weight%.

Preparation Example I Manufacturing Method of Herbal Extract

When explaining the manufacturing process of Hwangbaek, Sangbaekpi, Sewao, licorice extract in more detail. After washing with purified water and drying, powdered yellow powder, baekbaek powder, sewage powder and licorice powder were added to 5L of 70% ethanol aqueous solution, extracted and filtered at 15-40 ℃ for 3-5 days, and filtered at 4-15 ℃. Leave at low temperature for 10 days and filter. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure using a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain an extract of yellowish white, lettuce, red sesame and licorice.

Preparation Example 1 Preparation of Yellow White Extract

After washing with purified water and drying, 1 kg of powdered sulfur white powder was added to 5L of 70% ethanol aqueous solution, extracted for 3-5 days at 15-40 ° C., filtered through a 300 mesh filter cloth, and left at 4-15 ° C. for 7-10 days. After aging at low temperature, the filter was filtered using Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 27.5 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 3.7 ± 0.5%.

Preparation Example 2: Preparation of Morus bark Extract

After washing with purified water and drying, 1kg of powdered baekbo powder was put in 5L of 70% ethanol aqueous solution and extracted at 15-40 ℃ for 3-5 days, filtered through 300 mesh filter cloth, and left at 4-15 ℃ for 7-10 days. After aging at low temperature, the filter was filtered using Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 27.5 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 3.0 ± 0.5%.

Preparation Example 3 Preparation of Sewage Extract

After washing with purified water and drying, 1 kg of powdered sewage powder was added to 5L of 70% ethanol aqueous solution, extracted for 3-5 days at 15-40 ° C., filtered through 300 mesh filter cloth, and left at 4-15 ° C. for 7-10 days. After aging at low temperature, the filter was filtered using Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 27.5 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 3.1 ± 0.5%.                     

Preparation Example 4: Licorice Extract Preparation

After washing with purified water and drying, 1 kg of powdered licorice powder was added to 5 L of 70% ethanol aqueous solution, extracted for 3-5 days at 15-40 ° C., filtered through a 300 mesh filter cloth, and left at 4-15 ° C. for 7-10 days. After aging at low temperature, the filter was filtered using Whatman No. 2 filter paper. The extract was concentrated under reduced pressure at 70 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and dried to obtain 27.5 g (dry weight), and the extraction yield was 2.8 ± 0.5%.

Preparation Example II Preparation of Niosome

ingredient weight% A  Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether 10.0  Saccharos Diester 20.0  Polyoxyethylene alkyl ester 7.0  Diglycerol 4.0  cholesterol 25.0  Cholesterol Nonanoate 10.0  Soysterol 15.0  Ceramide 7.0 B  Yellow White Extract 0.5  Lettuce extract 0.5  Sewao Extract 0.5  Licorice extract 0.5 system 100

Manufacturing method:

1) Warm phase A to 90 ° C to mix and dissolve uniformly.

2) The above 1) is cooled to 45 ° C., B phase is mixed, and then passed through a high pressure emulsifier (Microfludizer) three times under a pressure condition of 1000 bar.

Preparation Example III Powder Surface Treatment of Niosome

Oils such as talc, sericite, mica, silica, PMMA, nylon powder having an average particle size of 5-10 μm and iron oxide, ultramarine, D / C Red 7, calcium lake having an average particle size of 0.01-2 μm, Inorganic pigments are blended at 85-95% by weight based on the total weight of the powder, niosomes at 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, and freeze-dried.

Manufacturing method:

1) Inject 94.5% by weight of talc having an average particle size of 5-10 μm into a Henschel mixer, add 4% by weight of niobium and 0.5% by weight of Polysorbate 60, and stir, and spray the powder at a high speed of 7,000-8,000 rpm. Mix evenly. At this time, the surfactant is to facilitate the surface treatment of niosomes to the powder using a high HLB Polysorbate 60, the particle size at high speed spraying is 0.01nm.

2) The aqueous component is dehydrated by lyophilization and dried at 5 ° C.

Example and Comparative Example I: Foundation

Raw material name Example 1 Comparative Example 1 1. Ceresin 0.5 0.5 2. Beeswax 0.2 0.2 3. Squalane 4.0 4.0 4. Hexyllaurate 3.0 3.0 5. Isopropyl Hohobate 5.0 5.0 6. Paraoxybenzoic acid ester 0.3 0.3 7. Titanium Dioxide 15.0 15.0 8. Iron Oxide Quantity Quantity 9. Polymethylmethacrylate 5.0 5.0 10. Talc 1.0 1.0 11. Cyclomethicone 9.0 9.0 12. Dimethicone 1.0 1.0 13. Lauryl Dimethicone Copolyol 0.5 0.5 14. Crosslinked Silicone Polymer 0.5 0.5 15. Trihydrocystearin 0.5 0.5 16. Niosome (Production Example II) 5.0 - 17. Purified water To 100 To 100 18. 1,3 butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 19.EDTA.2 Na 0.05 0.05 20. Triethanolamine 0.3 0.3 21. Met 3.0 3.0 22. Combination spices Quantity Quantity

Method of manufacture:

1) The raw materials 1-6 and 15 are heated to 70-75 ° C. to dissolve uniformly.

2) The raw materials 7-10 are mixed with a Henschel mixer for 30 minutes, crushed twice with an amtomizer, and then added to 1) to disperse for 50 minutes.

3) After dissolving raw material 11-14 uniformly with an azimixer, it is added to 2) above to dissolve uniformly.

4) The raw materials 17-21 are heated to 70-75 ° C., uniformly mixed, and slowly added to 3) to emulsify with a homomixer.

5) After cooling 4) to 50 ° C., raw materials 16 and 22 are added, and after secondary emulsification, the mixture is cooled to 30 ° C. and stored.

Test Example: Comparison of Skin Moisturizing Effects and Moisturizing Effects

In order to examine the persistence of the skin moisturizing effect and the moisturizing effect for the Examples and Comparative Examples, 30 healthy women (average age 29.5 years) were examined in a room with no air flow at 25 ° C. and a relative humidity of 45%. Comparative Example The product is applied three times a day, three times a day, mainly around the eyes, to examine the moisturizing effect and the persistence of the moisturizing effect.

TEWAMETER TM210 (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany) was used to measure transdermal moisture loss, that is, TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) value as TEWL value change ΔTEWL over time, and CORNEOMETER CM 820 PC (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany) to measure the skin moisturizing effect by quantifying the moisture content of the skin from 0 to 150 with the change of electrical conductivity according to the epidermal moisture content, and the results are shown in Table 3 below.

In addition, in order to find out the lasting power for the moisturizing effect of the present invention, Examples and Comparative Examples were formulated according to Table 2, respectively, and after 1 hour of application to the upper arm, TEWAMETER TM210 (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany) The transdermal moisture loss (TEWL) value, ie, the TEWL value change amount ΔTEWL over time, was measured by using the quantitative analysis, and the electrical energy according to the epidermal moisture content was measured using the CORNEOMETER CM 820 PC (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany). The conductivity was measured for the persistence of the moisturizing effect, and the results are shown in Table 4 below.                     

Trial product △ TEWL Corneometer value Example 1 6.7 98 Comparative Example 1 1.2 65

Trial product △ TEWL Corneometer value 2hr 4hr 6hr 2hr 4hr 6hr Example 1 9.8 11.4 14.7 88 90 90 Comparative Example 1 7.6 7.7 8.2 78 69 60

As shown in Table 3, the ΔTEWL value of the embodiment is 6.7㎍ / cm ² / hr it can be seen that the moisturizing effect is excellent, and even in the persistence of the moisturizing effect, the amount of transdermal moisture loss is drastically reduced to have the skin moisturized for a long time It can be seen that. This means that the niosome of the present invention has a smaller particle size than general emulsified particles, thereby easing skin penetration and maximizing skin moisturization.

Test Example: Skin Penetration Effect

Human normal fibroblast 1x10 ⁵ cells / ml Cells in collagen gel structure similar to the fibrous tissue of human connective tissue Collagen solution 3mg / ml: 5X DMEM: 2.2% Sodium bicarbonate and 200mM Inoculated in a medium mixed with 7: 2: 1 with 0.05 N sodium hydroxide containing Hepes buffer and incubated for 7 days at 5% CO ² , 37 ° C., a membrane made of 3 μm porous polycarbonate ( 1x10 ⁵ cells / ml of epidermal keratinocytes were inoculated onto the surface of the plate where the fibroblasts were cultured. Place K-SFM medium containing BPE inside and outside and incubate for 7 days. Afterwards, the medium inside the plate was discarded to allow the air to come into contact with the surface of the cultured cells, followed by incubating for 2 weeks in a medium in which K-SFM containing 10% FBS and DMEM without EGF were mixed in the same amount and incubated for 2 weeks. Obtain artificial skin with epidermis and dermis. Here, Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 of the present invention were applied to the artificial skin tissue of the top layer, followed by 4 hours of incubation, in a medium in which K-SFM containing 10% FBS and DMEM without EGF were mixed in the same amount. The amount of extract that penetrated the epidermis and dermis of artificial skin was analyzed by HPLC. The test results are shown in Table 5 below.

Amount of extract in medium (µg / ml) Example 1 630 Comparative Example 1 13

As shown in Table 5, it can be seen that the Example containing niosome is much superior to the skin penetration because the particle size is smaller than the comparative example.

Example and Comparative Example II: Two-way Cake

Raw material name Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 2 Talc To 100 To 100 To 100 2. Mica 15.00 15.00 15.00 3. Serisite 15.00 15.00 15.00 4. Preparation Example III 15.00 - - 5. Titanium Dioxide 15.00 15.00 15.00 6. Iron oxide Quantity Quantity Quantity 7. Ultramarine 2.00 2.00 2.00 8. Silica 5.00 5.00 5.00 9. Liquid paraffin 6.00 6.00 6.00 10. Preparation Example II - 0.60 - 11.Dimethicone 5.00 5.00 5.00 12. Sesquioleate sorbitan 2.00 1.99 2.00 13. Antioxidants 0.10 0.10 0.10 14. Preservative 0.20 0.20 0.20 15. Spices Quantity Quantity Quantity

Method of manufacture:

1) Mix 1-8 raw materials with Henschel mixer for 30 minutes.

2) After heating the raw materials of 9 and 11-14 at 80 ° C. to dissolve uniformly, the raw materials of 10 and 15 are mixed and sprayed at high speed.

3) 2) is mixed with a Henschel mixer for 20 minutes and then pulverized with a grinder.

4) The above 3) is filtered and then molded into a product.

Test Example: Comparison of Use Effect

Example 2, 3 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention for 30 women in their mid-20s and 30s after one month of use compared to the items such as adhesion, spreading, makeup persistence, preventing skin dryness The results are shown in Table 7 below.                     

Adhesion Spreadability Softness Makeup persistence Powder Dryness prevention Particle aggregation Example 2 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Example 3 4 4 3 5 4 4 3 Comparative Example 2 3 2 2 2 3 3 2

Legend: 5-very good, 4-good, 3-normal, 2-bad, 1-very bad

As shown in Table 7, the use effects of Examples 2 and 3 of the present invention are excellent overall, and in particular, the use of powdering, particle aggregation, and softness in Example 2 using niosome surface-treated in powder It can be seen that even better.

As described above, the color cosmetic composition containing niobium stabilized yellow, white skin, sewage, licorice extract enhances the moisturizing effect and skin penetration effect, and the dryness of the powder by surface treatment of the niobium according to the formulation It is effective in improving the quality and reliability of the product by improving the prevention, adhesion, spreadability and durability.

Claims (13)

In the color cosmetic composition, Tone cosmetic composition containing niobium stabilized yellowish white, baekbaekpi, sewage, licorice extract. The method of claim 1, Niosome is characterized by mixing, dissolving and cooling nonionic surfactants, auxiliary emulsifiers, cholesterol, cholesteryl esters, and soysterol, and adding high-pressure emulsification to a mixture of yellow, white, skin, sewage, and licorice extracts. Tone cosmetic composition containing. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Tonal cosmetic composition containing niobium, characterized in that it contains 0.1-10% by weight relative to the total weight of niosome. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Yellowish white, baekbaekpi, sewage, licorice extract is a niosome containing cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains 0.01 to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of niosome. The method of claim 2, The nonionic surfactant is a niosome-containing color tone, characterized in that it is blended with polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ester, saccharose diester alone or in combination at 30-40% by weight based on the total weight of niosome. Cosmetic composition. The method of claim 2, Coloring cosmetic composition containing niosomes, characterized in that the ceramide is further added 0.1 to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the niosomes. The method of claim 2, A co-emulsifier is a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes, characterized in that blending 2.0-10% by weight relative to the total weight of niosomes with diglycerol. The method of claim 2, Cholesterol, cholesteryl ester, soysterol is a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes, characterized in that blended in 30-80% by weight relative to the total weight of niosomes. The method of claim 8, Cholesteryl ester is a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes, characterized in that cholesteryl non nanoate, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl isostearyl carbonate. In the color cosmetic composition, Niosome is 0.1-10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder, a high-pressure spray on 85-95% by weight of the pigment compared to 100% by weight of the powder and then the surface treatment by freeze-drying cosmetic composition containing niosome Manufacturing method. The method of claim 10, The pigment is composed of sieving pigments of talc, sericite, mica, silica, PMMA and nylon powder with an average particle size of 5-10 μm and iron oxide, ultramarine, D / C Red 7, and calcium lake having an average particle size of 0.01-2 μm. A process for producing a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes, which is an inorganic pigment. The method of claim 1, Niosome stabilized yellow, white, red, sesame and licorice extract is 0.1-30% by weight based on the total weight of color cosmetics, water-in-oil or oil-in-water makeup base, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, lip gloss, face powder, two-way cake, A tincture cosmetic composition containing niosomes, which is contained in tincture cosmetics of eye birds, cheek collars, and eyebrow pencils. The method of claim 10, Powder surface-treated by niosome is 0.1-30% by weight of the total color cosmetics in water-in-oil or oil-in-water makeup base, foundation, skin cover, lipstick, lip gloss, face powder, two-way cake, eye shadow, cheek A method for producing a color cosmetic composition containing niosomes, characterized by being contained in color cosmetics of color and eyebrow pencils.