KR100474488B1 - Crimped yarns and woven fabrics and methods of making them - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention, there are provided crimped yarns and knitted fabrics composed of crimped yarns and a method for producing the knitted fabrics, which make it possible to obtain woven and knitted fabrics having a unique surface feel, dry touch, and stretch properties made of conjugated multifilament yarns.

This crimping yarn is a conjugated multifilament yarn made of a polyester polymer and is a crimping yarn characterized by satisfying the following characteristics.

(A) Crimp Number (CA): 2.5 Acids / cm≤ CA≤ 10 Acids / cm

(B) Expression crimp number (CB): 8 acids / cm≤ CB≤ 30 acids / cm

(C) Shrinkage stress (TS): 0.0882≤ TS (cN / dtex) ≤ 0.221

(D) Appearance shrinkage (SC): 40% ≤ SC≤ 80%

(E) Boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW): 2% <SW <8%

This crimping yarn can be obtained by relaxing heat treatment of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn.

Description

Crimped yarn and woven fabric and manufacturing method thereof

The present invention provides a unique surface feel, dry touch, and stretch in a crimp conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two component polyester polymers having different thermal contraction properties are bonded in parallel or in a deep or ultra-sparse manner. A crimping yarn and a method for producing the knitted fabric having a stiffness and a method of manufacturing the crimped conjugate filament yarn, in particular, have excellent bulkiness and permeability, and also have a newly unique surface feel, dry touch property and stretch property. It is about a knitted fabric.

The present invention is also a hollow structure yarn composed of a multifilament aggregate of the shape having a hollow cavity structure in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, constituting the knitted fabric, having a light weight and stretch, and also having high resilience To a knitted fabric made up of.

Moreover, this invention relates to the composite yarn which has pulling, elasticity, and soft swelling, and has stretch property, and the knitted fabric using the thread.

Conventionally, polyester fibers have been used as the mainstream of synthetic fibers because they have many excellent performances, and in recent years, in the medical field, high quality materials having high sensitivity have been developed, and these are called "synthetic fibers". It is spread under the name of. This "synthetic fiber" is a market for the production of polyester fibers by obtaining a new sense of quality that is completely different from the conventional products by both the advancement of yarn manufacturing technology and the high-order processing step of making a woven fabric. Is accepted.

However, this "synthetic island" having a high quality has a problem in terms of cost and safety of quality because it is obtained by a complicated combination of an advanced yarn and a high-order processing process. In particular, in order to impart a new effect of high quality, a method of increasing added value, such as performing a twist or blend processing using a plurality of yarns, and then twisting or blending again, tends to be very expensive. . Moreover, the product of a different texture is requested | required again by the order of a product, and further improvement is calculated | required by the change of an instinct, functionality, etc.

For such a problem, for example, as a technique for obtaining a knitted fabric having a surface change, there is a method of producing a knitted fabric by twisting and twisting a thread, but this method has a high processing cost, hard to obtain a new surface feel, and The drawback is that it is not possible to impart stretch properties to the knit fabric for the purpose of twisting. As a means for imparting stretchability to a knitted fabric, there is a method of using a polyurethane-based elastic fiber, but it is very expensive and no new surface feel is obtained.

Moreover, the method which manufactures the fabric which has a surface change by the composite yarn arrange | positioned by the side by side by the component which consists of two other types of polymers is also known, and it performs a combustible process in order to give a stretch property again to this. Although there is an example, in these methods, not only the process is increased and the cost is high, but also the touch of the landing tends to be hard.

In addition, the method of obtaining a bulky yarn, bulky fabric, or knitted fabric by loosening the conjugated stretched yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and copolyester under microtension to obtain bulky yarn is disclosed in JP-B51-37376 and JP. -B57-25650 is proposed in the publication. According to these methods, however, the crimp can be stably expressed, but it is difficult to impart the surface change and the stretch property to the knitted fabric.

On the other hand, in the production by these conventional yarns, when a straight yarn having shrinkage is used, no change is caused on the surface of the fabric, and no stretchability is provided. In addition, when the twisted yarn is made into a knitted fabric with an additional twist, it is possible to change the surface by causing fine wrinkles on the surface due to decomposed torque when heat is applied, but it is also difficult to impart stretchability. Moreover, in the case of general bitumen processing, although crimp exists, there is no crimp expression ability beyond the existing crimp, and in the case of bitumen, the crimp provided is too fine and the phase is pushed out. Therefore, it is effective in terms of bulkiness and permeability, but surface change and stretch imparting force are small.

In addition, when a composite yarn in which components composed of two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties known in the art are bonded in parallel or in a core-sheath type is used, When some stretch properties are obtained, but used as a multifilament aggregate, even when the fiber shrinkage is performed, the ability to express crimps by overcoming the binding force of the tissue of the knitted fabric is insufficient, and when a conventional multi-polymer polyester multifilament yarn is used As with bulkiness and permeability, it could not impart a surface change. Therefore, the present inventors earnestly examined providing both the surface change and the stretch property to the knitted fabric. As a result, in the manufacture of the knitted fabric, the inclination that the yarn constitutes in the case of the fabric for the purpose of facilitating the development of the potential crimp. Among the lengths of the floats at the intersections of the weft and the weft, in the case of the knitted fabric, the present crimp is present in the length of the loop, that is, the crimp is expressed and the crimp is expressed later to present the crimp. It has been found that it is effective to achieve the present invention.

In addition, using synthetic fibers, natural fibers are expected to develop a knitted fabric having an approach from insufficient characteristics, such as lightness and stretch, and high repulsion. However, as a means of solving this problem, the invention of JP-A5-247757 is mentioned earlier, but the phase shift between the crimp of the composite fiber and the multifilament of the crimp provided in the flammable processing does not occur, and large voids do not occur. Therefore, there was a problem in achieving the weight reduction.

Moreover, about weight reduction, there is a means using hollow fibers, as illustrated in JP-A62-85048, JP-A4-289219, and the like. In this method, the problem is how to increase the hollow ratio of the hollow fiber in order to increase the weight reduction level. However, when the hollow ratio of the hollow fiber is increased, it becomes a problem in higher processing unless the fiber diameter is increased. For example, there are drawbacks such as hollow hollows or cracks during wear as garments when it is falsely processed to impart stretchability. As described above, it has been said that it is difficult to achieve the stretchability and the weight reduction by the prior art without incurring the processing cost.

Moreover, in order to give a new effect to a woven fabric, the method of adding a added value by carrying out compound processing or compound blend processing using several yarns is employ | adopted. However, there is a tendency for the power ratio such as flammable processing and air treatment to be very high.

The value-added cost of this compounding can be absorbed in relatively profitable areas such as suits and coats in thick fabrics, but cannot be absorbed in relatively difficult areas such as thin fabrics such as blouses and shirts. In other words, it is important to reduce the processing costs as much as possible. On the other hand, in order to give added value to a fabric, it is important to use it as a composite yarn in view of the synergistic effect by multiple yarns, and development of how to reduce the cost of a composite is also progressing.

Moreover, as a value added up by flammable composite processing, the method of obtaining a new texture as a two-layer structure or a multilayer structure, and providing a stretch property as a function at the same time is proposed. For example, in JP-A5-247757, it is proposed to perform a pre-wound crimping process of a polyester composite yarn in advance, and to carry out a mixed fiber processing continuously. In this method, however, the increase in the number of combustible processing and air mixing processing increases the cost, and the obtained knitted fabric tends to have a hardened touch.

1 to 10 are all micrographs for drawing purposes.

Fig. 1 is a photograph showing the shape of a three-dimensional spiral coil-shaped conjugate multifilament yarn having a crimping ability obtained by radial stretching, wherein (a) is a multifilament, and (b) is a single filament constituting the multifilament. Are displayed respectively.

Fig. 2 is a photograph showing the crimp form of the crimping yarn of the present invention, where (a) shows a multifilament and (b) shows a single filament constituting the multifilament, respectively.

Figure 3 is an embodiment of the present invention, is a weft cross-sectional picture showing a state cut the weft cross section of the fabric.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged photograph of the multifilament aggregate of FIG. 3 and shows a hollow structure having a cavity structure at the center. FIG.

Fig. 5 is a side photograph showing the hollow state in the twisted structure of the multifilament yarn.

FIG. 6 is an enlarged photograph showing the main portion of FIG. 5. FIG.

It is a photograph which shows the shape of the fiber of the side surface of the composite yarn obtained by Example 12 mentioned later concerning this invention.

It is a photograph which shows the shape of the fiber of the cut end of the composite yarn obtained by Example 12 mentioned later concerning this invention.

Fig. 9 is a photograph showing the fiber shape of the crimped composite yarn that is twisted in the opposite direction to the direction of the torque of the used false work obtained in Example 15 relating to the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a photograph showing the fiber shape of the crimped composite yarn that is twisted in the same direction as the direction of torque of the used twisted work obtained in Example 16 of the present invention.

This invention is achieved as a result of earnestly examining in order to solve the conventional problem, deviating from the conventional idea.

The object of the present invention consists of crimped conjugated multifilament yarns and crimps and excellent bulkiness and permeability, or newly unique surface feels, which make it possible to obtain knitted fabrics with unique surface feel, dry touch and stretch properties, It is to manufacture a knitted fabric having dry touch property and stretch property.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a crimped yarn which can obtain a yarn for imparting a new surface feel and stretch property to the knitted fabric at a reasonable cost.

Another object of the present invention is not to be a so-called hollow fiber having a hollow structure in the fiber itself, but to form a hollow hollow structure by a multifilament aggregate, and to stretch and stretch by a stretch of the spiral aggregate. It is to provide a knitted fabric comprising a hollow structured yarn.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn having a pull, elasticity and soft bulging feeling, a light weight and stretch property, and a knitted fabric comprising the composite yarn.

Still other objects of the present invention will become apparent from the following description.

The present invention intends to attain the above object, and the invention described in claim 1 of the present invention is a crimped conjugate in which at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are bonded in parallel or deeply and superly. As a multifilament yarn, it is a crimp yarn characterized by satisfy | filling the characteristics of following (a) and (b).

(a) 2.5 acids / cm ≦ crimp number (CA) ≦ 10 mountains / cm,

(b) 8 acids / cm ≦ expression crimp number (CB) ≦ 30 acids / cm,

In the present invention, it is preferable that the conjugate multifilament yarns satisfy the following characteristics (c) to (e).

(c) 0.0882 ≤ shrinkage stress (TS) (cN / dtex) ≤ 0.221,

(d) 40% ≤ apparent shrinkage (SC) ≤80%,

(e) 2% ≤ boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW) ≤ 8%,

The crimped yarn having such characteristics relaxes the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn obtained by producing a crimped conjugate filament yarn in which at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are bonded in parallel or in a deep and superficial manner. It can manufacture by heat processing.

In the present invention, there is also provided a knitted fabric having dry etching property and stretch property obtained by knitting such crimp yarn. In such woven fabrics, crimped conjugated multifilament yarns having a fineness of 30 to 350 dtex are used, crimped conjugated multifilament yarns are used in 35% by weight or more of constituent yarns, and 10 to 10 in the width and length directions by heat treatment. It is contained as a preferable aspect that it is a crimped yarn which has 60% shrinkage and expresses crimp, and the crimped yarn which expressed crimp was a crimped yarn which has a cavity structure in the center part of a twisted spiral multifilament aggregate.

The invention described in claim 9 of the present invention is a knitted fabric made of a spiral multifilament aggregate in which multifilament yarns are twisted, and a hollow structural yarn composed of multifilament yarns having a central structure thereof. Here, the multifilament yarns are conjugated multifilament yarns formed by crimping the crimped conjugated multifilament yarns, the multifilament yarns are made of hollow fiber, and the multifilament yarns are combustible in the range of the linkage (α) 3000 to 30,000, What is done is included as a preferred embodiment.

Moreover, invention of Claim 13 of this invention is crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and other polyester filament yarn (B) which have crimp expression ability which consists of at least 2 types of polyester polymers from which heat shrink characteristics differ. Is a composite yarn characterized in that it is made by twisting. In this invention, it is preferable that the said other polyester filament yarn (B) is a twisted polyester filament yarn, and this composite yarn is twisted in the opposite direction to the torque of the twisted polyester filament yarn (B). Included as.

Moreover, in this invention, the said composite yarn is combustible by the linkage number (alpha) 3,000-25,000, Preferably it is 3,000-20,000, The core part of a composite yarn has a cavity structure, The fineness of the said conjugate multifilament yarn (A) Is 30 to 350 dtex and the fineness of the other polyester filament yarn (B) is 30 to 800 dtex, the conjugate multifilament yarn for the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and the other polyester filament yarn (B) It is a preferable aspect that the ratio which (A) occupies is 0.2 <= A / (A + B) <= 0.8 by weight ratio.

In addition, the expression crimp number (CB) and water stress (TS) of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is

8≤ CB (acid / cm) ≤ 30,

TS (g) ≥ 0.265cN / dtex

It is included as a preferable aspect that satisfy | fills and the thing formed by heat-processing to express the crimping composite yarn.

In the present invention, there is also provided a knit fabric having a pulling, elasticity and soft swelling, lightness and stretchability obtained by knitting such a composite yarn.

In the present invention, crimped conjugated multifilament yarns in which at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are bonded in parallel or in a deep or super bonded manner are used. This crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is not imparted by crimping or other thread processing, but has self- crimping ability due to the difference in heat shrinkage characteristics, and is subjected to relaxation heat treatment in advance before it is woven. In other words, it means multifilament yarn crimped with the ability to express latent crimp. And this state is preferably heat set. In other words, the crimped conjugate filament yarn made of the polyester of the present invention has a self crimp expression force due to a heat shrinkage characteristic difference, has a latent crimp expression ability, and expresses a crimp by performing boiling water treatment. will be.

In the present invention, the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn uses a polyester filament yarn whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and usually uses two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics. As this polyester polymer which differs in heat shrinkability, what mixes the degree of superposition | polymerization with a polyester homopolymer, copolymerized the 3rd component other than a telephthal component and / or an ethylene glycol component, and mixed other polymers may be sufficient.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage properties used in the present invention, a copolyester containing at least 80 mol% of polyethylene terephthalate alone or an ethylene terephthalate unit is preferable. As a copolymerization component of a copolyester, well-known components, such as isophthalic acid, the isophthalic acid which has a metal sulfonate group, bisphenolic acid, neopentyl glycol, or 1, 6- cyclohexanediol, can be used. In addition, other improving agents such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving component and a pigment can be blended in the polyester.

The crimping yarn of the present invention has 2.5 to 10 acids / cm, preferably 3.5 to 7.5 acids / cm, as the number of crimps (CA) of yarns in the longitudinal direction of the multifilament, which is further crimped by boiling water treatment. The expression crimp number (CB) which expresses is 8-30 acid / cm, Preferably it has a potential of 13-27 acid / cm.

In general, woven fabrics or knitted fabrics intersect the yarns, and there are weakly bound portions and strong portions. That is, in the fabric, the intersection point of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is strong binding force, and the non-intersecting part has little binding force.

In addition, the knitted fabric is composed of a needle loop and a singer loop, but the intersection point of the loop is strong and the loop itself is weak. In order to give surface change or stretch property to the woven fabric according to the characteristics of the yarn used in the woven fabric or knit fabric, it is possible to give a change in shape to a small portion of the binding force where the thread floats at the intersection.

In the production of a conventional yarn, when a straight yarn having shrinkage is used, no change occurs on the surface of the knitted fabric, and no stretch property is provided. In addition, in the case where a knitted fabric is used by using a twisted yarn added to the straight yarn, heat may be applied to the knitted fabric to cause fine wrinkles on the surface by the low-torque torque, and the surface may be changed, but it is difficult to impart stretchability. In addition, since general crimping works exist, crimps are present, but they are not capable of expressing more than the crimping performance they originally have, so that the surface change and stretch imparting force are small.

On the other hand, by using a composite yarn in which two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties known in the art are bonded in parallel or in a deep or super-conductive manner, stretchability can be imparted, but surface change cannot be imparted.

Therefore, the present inventors earnestly examined providing both the surface change and the stretch property to a knitted fabric, and as a result, the intersection point of the warp and the weft which constitutes the woven fabric in order to make it easier to express the latent crimp later in the production of the knitted fabric It is effective to present the crimping current in the length of the loop in the knitting, that is, the semi-curling, and to express the crimping later to make the crimping present in the length of the loop. I found out.

Next, details of the crimped semi-cured yarn expressing the present crimp and the potential crimp will be described.

First, as a basic characteristic, as described above, the yarn has a crimp number (CA), that is, 2.5-10 acid / cm as the current crimp number, and the expression crimp number (CB) when the boiling water shrinkage treatment is performed in a free state. It is important to have an expression capacity of 8-30 acids / cm). This crimp expression ability enables crimp expression under the binding force of the tissue of a woven fabric or knitted fabric. As a yarn characteristic for this, it is preferable that the shrinkage stress TS has 0.0882 ≦ TS (cN / dtex) ≦ 0.221, The boiling water shrinkage ratio (SW) is preferably 2 to 8% or less, and the shrinkage ratio due to crimp expression is preferably 40 to 80% when the boiling water treatment is performed in the apparent shrinkage ratio (SC), that is, in a free state. Here, the measuring method of the said characteristic is demonstrated.

① The crimp number of yarn (cA) (acid / cm):

The multifilament is cut to 70 mm or more (the length that is easy to measure), the cut single yarn is placed on a glass plate, the number of acids and valleys existing in one centimeter length is counted, and this sum is made to be 1/2. It calculates about ten single yarns and computes it as the average value.

② potential expression crimp (CB) (acid / cm):

Treat with multifilament yarns for 15 minutes in water. Remove and soak for 1 minute in cold water. After drying in the wind, it is placed on a glass plate and is projected on a screen by a projector to count the number of mountains and valleys existing in one centimeter in length, and the total is 1/2. It calculates about ten single yarns and computes it as the average value.

③ Shrinkage stress TS (g):

The change in shrinkage stress when heated to room temperature near 250 ° C is detected with a U gauge (strain gauge) and recorded on X and Y recorders. The sample length is 100 mm and the heating rate is 2.5 ° C./sec. Initial load: The temperature is increased to (0.0882 cN / dtex × 2) g. Read the maximum stress (g) and peak temperature (° C) from the chart.

④ Appearance Shrinkage Rate SC (%):

Fail 10 times a week with a 1.25m detector. Apply a load of (0.000882cN / dtex × 10 × 2) g and measure the original length: a. (Process for 15 minutes in cutting water, immerse in cold water for 1 minute, dry in the wind, and load: (0.000882cN / dtex × 10 × 2) g to measure the original length: b. Find your mastery.

Appearance Shrinkage SC (%) = (a-b) / a × 100

⑤ boiling water shrinkage ratio SW (%):

Take samples such as measuring the apparent shrinkage rate. Load: (0.176 cN / dtex × 10 × 2) g is added to measure the original length: a. Treat for 15 minutes in the water to be cut off, and after cooling, load: (0.176 cN / dtex × 10 × 2) (g) is added to measure the original length: b. The boiling water fiber shrinkage is calculated from the following equation.

Boiling Water Fiber Shrinkage SW (%) = (a-b) / a × 100

A yarn structure having such characteristics is a composite of at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties by being bonded in parallel, or a core component eccentrically placed in a super component, and after spinning and stretching, It is obtained by heat processing on specific conditions. Specifically, a multifilament phase which has a shrinkage stress which expresses a three-dimensional crimp of spiral phases by stretching is obtained by relaxing heat treatment in order to present a partial crimp under the condition that the shrinkage stress does not disappear.

As the two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage characteristics used in the present invention, a polyester polymer of a combination in which one is a low viscosity polyester component and the other is a high viscosity polyester component is preferably used. Specifically, in the case of the homopolyester component, the intrinsic viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is 0.35 to 0.45, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.65 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is small, the melt viscosity is lowered, making it difficult to manufacture the yarn. Moreover, when the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is too large, the crimp expression power of the conjugate multifilament yarn will be insufficient, and the anti-curing and latent crimp power will also decrease. Moreover, when the intrinsic viscosity of a high viscosity polyester component is too large, melt viscosity will become high, and spinning and extending | stretching will become difficult. Moreover, when the intrinsic viscosity of a high viscosity polyester component becomes small, crimp expression power will become inadequate.

Moreover, the range of 0.20-0.40 of the intrinsic viscosity difference between both a low viscosity polyester component and a high viscosity polyester component is preferable. However, when a copolyester component is used for one side, it is possible to bring the difference of the ultimate viscosity of both components further. Intrinsic viscosity is calculated | required here as an orusochlorophenol solution at the temperature of 25 degreeC.

Moreover, as for the composite ratio of the low viscosity polyester component and the high viscosity polyester component of conjugate multifilament yarn, 35-50: 65-50 are preferable by weight ratio, and 40-50: 60-50 are more preferable. Outside this range, the anti-present crimp and latent crimp powers are inferior, and the effect cannot be exhibited.

In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is most preferably a round cross section, but may be a mold cross section such as a cross section of a triangular to eight-corner.

Next, the manufacturing method of the crimping yarn of this invention is demonstrated.

The crimped yarn characterized by the present invention is spun and stretched in a state in which two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are bonded in parallel or deeply and super-secondly from the same mold, and thereafter, the resultant stretched yarn is relaxedly heat treated. You can get it by running

In general, it is known that a composite yarn obtained by spinning two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages in parallel or deeply and super-superficially expresses a three-dimensional crimp by heat treatment in a subsequent step. However, the expression power is still weak and sufficient crimp is not expressed in the state of a knitted fabric. Therefore, it is a phenomenon that the composite yarn is further combusted and imparted crimping is performed.

As a result of examining the manufacturing method of the composite yarn for expressing the crimp in the knitted fabric by increasing the crimp expression force, the composite yarn obtained by the stretching was heat-treated in a relaxed state to express a part of the potential crimp expression force to open the crimp. It is desirable to decide.

The crimp number CA of the present invention has 2.5 to 10 peaks / cm, but the crimp number CA has a portion of the peaks or valleys of the crimp of the crimp yarn in a portion where the restraint force of the nose and loop in the structure of the knitted fabric is small. By making it exist, it is easy to express the crimp which has another relaxation heat treatment in the dyeing process of a knitted fabric, and also as a potential, and as a result, it expresses a crimp on the surface of a knitted fabric, and changes it on the surface. By giving, dry touch and stretch can also be given.

The crimped form of the crimped yarn of the present invention is completely different from the crimped form expressed on the yarns of the yarns of the spinning and drawing yarns. That is, while the crimp of the yarn of the conjugated multifilament yarn of spinning and stretching shows a spiral three-dimensional coil shape, the crimping form of the magnetic crimping yarn according to the present invention is a so-called three-dimensional coil shape but a wave close to two dimensions. It has a form of shape. This wave-shaped form is thought to exhibit a near-two-dimensional wave shape when the three-dimensional spiral coil-shaped composite yarns are relaxed heat treated, and other polyester polymers of the heat shrinkage contract and undergo light heat setting. On the other hand, the three-dimensional spiral coil shape has a small extension stress of the crimp and a small expression stress. On the other hand, in the case of relaxation heat treatment as in the present invention to express a crimp in a part and heat setting it lightly, in the state of having the potential of expressing a three-dimensional spiral coil-shaped crimp form in the peaks and valleys of the crimp, The crimp is fixed. Therefore, the elongational stress of the crimp is large, the deformation recovery at the portion where the restraining force at the intersection point of the knitted fabric is small, and it is likely to be in a relatively loose state.

Examples of these crimp forms are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Fig. 1 is a normal radially-stretched three-dimensional spiral coil-shaped composite yarn, (a) is a multifilament and (b) is a photograph showing a single filament constituting a multifilament. 2 shows the crimp form of the magnetic crimping yarn of the present invention. Similarly, (a) is a multifilament, and (b) is a photograph showing a single filament constituting the multifilament. These photographs were magnified by a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi Seisakusho Co., Ltd.

As a characteristic of the magnetic crimping yarn of the present invention, when using a magnetic crimping yarn having a crimping number of 2.5 to 10 acids / cm, the knitted fabric is used, and when the relaxation heat treatment is performed by the reheating treatment in the dyeing step, the expression crimping number is 8 to 8. Preferred yarn characteristics as the ability to express a crimp of 30 acid / cm include: pre-shrink stress TS: 0.0882 ≦ TS (cN / dtex) ≦ 0.221, boiling water fiber shrinkage SW: 2% ≦ SW ≦ 8%, and appearance shrinkage SC: 40% ≤SC≤80%.

In expressing the knitted fabric using magnetic crimping yarn by re-relaxing heat treatment in the dyeing process, if the boiling water shrinkage rate of the magnetic crimping yarn is less than 2%, the crimping is not expressed. It may become fine and may not show the effect as a crimp.

The shrinkage stress of the magnetic crimping yarn is important as a characteristic for the crimping expressed with this contraction to be expressed against the restraint force of the tissue in the knitted fabric. In addition, there is an appearance shrinkage rate as a yarn characteristic for judging the crimp expression power of the self-stretching yarn. The appearance shrinkage ratio can be judged whether or not there is a shrinkage stress or fiber shrinkage stress that is crimped in the relaxation heat treatment of the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn. The apparent shrinkage ratio indicates a change in the failure length that shrinks in accordance with the crimp expression when the magnetic crimp yarn is wound on the failure and the boiling water shrinkage treatment is performed. If this apparent shrinkage rate SC is less than 40% and more than 80%, crimp expression may not be enough or expression crimp may become too fine.

One of the technical points of realizing the yarn characteristics of the present invention is that, after spinning and stretching the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn in the yarn weaving process, the crimping force is expressed by the contraction stress while the crimp is expressed. It is the point which performs crimp semi-current relaxation heat processing which makes it have.

Normally, the relaxation heat treatment of highly oriented stretched yarn reduces the orientation and reduces the shrinkage stress. However, as a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that the conjugate yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment under the conditions of spinning and relaxation. It has been found that it is possible to have potential crimp expression even if some crimps are presently opened and fixed.

In the relaxation heat treatment in the present invention, the stretched yarn obtained by spinning and stretching is preferably semi-cursed and heat-set in crimping at a relaxation rate of 2% to 12%, more preferably 4 to 10%. In order to reduce the decrease in shrinkage stress and increase the expression power of the potential crimp, the treatment temperature is preferably performed at dry heat of 100 ° C to 170 ° C, more preferably at 110 to 160 ° C.

If the relaxation rate is outside the range of 2 to 12%, the amount of semi-curing crimping may be small, or the amount of overfeed may be too large to harvest at the winding speed and not be fully contracted to produce. If the heat treatment temperature is too low, the crimp is not sufficiently developed and heat-set; if the heat treatment temperature is too high, the crimp expressed by the shrinkage of the fiber itself becomes too fine, or the shrinkage difference between the two components is eliminated, thereby increasing the crimp. It becomes the same form, and shrinkage stress also falls and is unpreferable. As the heat treatment method, there is a method using a contact type hot plate, a method using a non-contact type (hollow heater), and the like, but since the hydrothermal effect is different, the heater touch time can be set in consideration of the heater length and required fiber characteristics.

In addition, the heat treatment system of the present invention may be a continuous process of spinning and stretching in the weaving step, or may be a separation method in which the stretched yarn obtained by spinning and stretching is relaxed by heat treatment in a separate production system.

In the present invention, using such crimped yarns, a new sense of knitted fabric having dry touch properties and stretch properties is provided. It is preferable that the fineness of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn used for a woven fabric is 30-350 dtex, More preferably, it is 50-300 dtex.

When the knitted fabric comprising the constituent yarn including the crimped yarn of the present invention is applied to medical use, a thin cloth such as tutsu or blouse generally has a fineness of 30 to 100 dtex, and a bottom or suit such as a pants or a skirt, For thick fabric fabrics such as jackets and coats, 100-1,000 dtex thread is suitable, and in these cases, the fineness of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn is 30-350 dtex.

The fabric is composed of warp and weft yarns, so the degree of freedom of organization is large, and it is easy to change the length at which tissue points of warp and weft yarns cross each other. However, in the case of thin fabric fabrics, until now, by using a twisted yarn in the weft yarn to express the seaweed torque at the stage of dyeing process, the surface effect by the fine wrinkle effect is mainly used, the cost of additional twist or burn No lifting means were used.

In the present invention, by using the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn, by changing the arrangement and the density balance of the warp and the weft yarn, the acid and valley of the crimp of the crimp yarn due to the change of the length of the tissue point is present and dyed The crimp is expressed by the relaxation heat treatment in the process or the like, and the effect of the three-dimensional crimp can be imparted to the surface of the fabric. As a result, a fabric having excellent surface change, dry touch, and stretch property can be obtained. In thick cloth fabrics, since fine-sized multifilament yarns cannot be used, it is easy to obtain the effects of surface change, stretch properties, and dry landing feel.

In the case of a knitted fabric, any of a warp knitting piece and a flat knitting piece may be composed of a nose (loop) and knitted in a gauge suitable for the thickness of the yarn, and the length of the loop is determined by the gauge of the knitting machine. Increasing the loop length makes it rough, while decreasing the loop length makes it dense. The surface change, stretchability and dry touch of the knitted fabric change according to the loop length and crimp size. For example, when the number of crimps of crimped conjugated multifilament yarns is 2.5 to 10 stitches / cm, the length of a peak is equivalent to 4 to 1 mm, and the loop length of the knitting machine used for the knitting of 30 to 100 dtex is 4 to 1.5 mm. Is in range. That is, the acid of the crimped yarn in one loop can reconcile partial acid, and when it is subjected to relaxation heat treatment by reheat treatment such as dyeing process, latent expression crimp is expressed, and the number of crimps is easily 8 to 30 acids / cm. Since the expression crimp has a three-dimensional structure, a new expression is given to the surface of the knitted fabric.

In addition, the single filament constituting the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn has a thickness (short fiber fineness) of 1.1 dtex or more, which is preferable in view of crimp expression power, and thus a knitted fabric having excellent surface change and dry feeling is obtained. Moreover, when the single fiber fineness is 15 dtex or less, the three-dimensional solid shape of an expression crimp is especially preferable, and it is excellent in surface change and excellent in the feel of a landing. In this invention, 2-10 dtex is more preferable for short fiber fineness.

In the knitted fabric which consists of the crimped yarn of this invention, it is preferable to use the said conjugate multifilament yarn in 35 weight% or more of the constituent yarn. When the conjugated multifilament yarn is less than 35% by weight, the crimp expression power is insufficient, and the surface change such as the swelling (bulkness), permeability, and surface effect, the stretch property, and the touch of dry touch are obtained. it's difficult. Therefore, Preferably it is 40 weight% or more, The higher the ratio, the effect of this invention is acquired. 100 weight% may be sufficient.

In the case of the woven fabric, the warp and / or weft yarn may be the above-described conjugate multifilament yarn, or the warp and / or weft yarn may be arranged together with other yarns or may be composited with other yarns. The characteristics of the other yarns to be combined are not particularly limited, but yarns having a low boiling water shrinkage ratio are preferable in terms of imparting stretchability.

The knitted fabric using the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention is further subjected to heat treatment, expressing and presenting the potential crimp of the yarn, thereby providing bulkiness, permeability, newly unique surface feel, and dryness. It is excellent in knitted fabric with touch and stretch properties. The heat shrinkage rate in this case is preferably 10 to 60% in the width and length directions.

In the present invention, the hollow fiber having a hollow structure in the fiber itself is not formed of a hollow fiber, but a hollow hollow structure is formed by a multifilament aggregate, and the elasticity of the spiral aggregate combines stretchability and lightness. A knitted fabric consisting of structured yarns is provided. Such a woven fabric is a woven fabric made of hollow structural yarns in which the central portion of the spiral multipallament aggregate, to which the conjugate multifilament yarns are twisted, is composed of a yarn having a hollow structure.

The hollow structural yarn having a hollow structure in the central portion of the multifilament aggregate constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention is spirally wound in the longitudinal direction of the fiber when the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn having the crimping ability is twisted in an aggregated state and heat treated It is made when the crimp of the image is expressed.

As for the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn having crimping ability used herein, in spinning two kinds of polyester polymers, a composite ratio of a low viscosity polyester component and a high viscosity polyester component is important. As for the composite ratio of a low viscosity polyester component and a high viscosity polyester component, 35-65: 65-35 are preferable by weight ratio, and 40-60: 60-40 are more preferable.

In the composite form of the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn, the two components may be either in parallel, or in a deep and super-second manner, but a parallel form is preferable. This composite ratio and the two-component arrangement form are related to the size of the diameter of the spiral coil of the expression crimp in the loosening heat treatment of the composite fiber, and the larger the coil diameter, the greater the light weight effect. Specifically, the coil diameter is preferably 200 µm or more and 1200 µm or less, and more preferably 300 µm or more and 1200 µm or less.

The spinning speed for obtaining such crimped conjugated multifilament yarns may be either of a low speed region of at least 1000 m / min and a high speed region of at least 2500 m / min. Next, the stretched unstretched or semi-stretched yarn can be stretched by a known stretching device, and the stretched yarn is relaxed as much as possible under conditions in which the stretched level of the stretched yarn obtained against the unstretched and semi-stretched yarn's elongation characteristics and no fluffing occur. It is preferable to set the conditions under which a large shrinkage stress is obtained by heat treatment. The larger the shrinkage stress, the higher the crimping ability of the conjugate multifilament yarn can be obtained, and the hollow structure of the spiral coil is obtained by the crimping expression in the loose heat treatment of the knitted fabric. As the stretched yarn, the short fiber fineness constituting the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is preferably 1.1 to 15 dtex as described above. In the area of finer than 1dtex, it is difficult to sacrifice at the technical level of the phenomenon, but there is a limitation in the spiral coil, and if it is larger than 15dtex, the hollow structure is obtained, but it is softer than the straight structure because it is a spiral structure, but the touch of the landing is hard in medical use. It is not desirable to do so.

The shrinkage stress of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn is a desirable property because the higher one increases the expression of the latent crimp. The shrinkage stress is preferably at least 0.265 cN / dtex.

In addition, the twisting method of adding additional twist to the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is not particularly limited and can be carried out by a known technique. The twist set may be performed after the twisting, but the set temperature is preferably low enough that there is no problem in weaving and knitting.

The hollow structure having a hollow structure in the center of the spiral assembly of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn which has been twisted additionally may be expressed by loosening heat treatment in a state of yarn, but as a conventional method, weaving, knitting, knitting It is preferable to carry out in the process of dyeing.

As the conjugate multifilament yarn, by using the hollow multifilament yarn in which the single filament itself has a hollow structure, the effect of light weight and high resilience to the woven fabric can be further enhanced.

In the present invention, particular attention is required for relaxation treatment, but conditions for relaxing the spiral structure by adopting the twisting force of the added twist and the expression of the potential crimp of the composite yarn are adopted. The twisted conjugated multifilament yarns are subjected to additional twist to converge the filament yarns. When the loose knitted fabric is subjected to a loosening heat treatment, the spiral crimp caused by the shrinkage difference between two kinds of polyester polymers having different thermal shrinkages does not shift the phase as a spiral as shown in FIG. 1, and the individual filaments are aggregated. By keeping as much as possible in the state of maintaining a form, it becomes easy to express expression. By the manifestation of the spiral spiral crimp in the aggregate of the multifilament yarns, a cavity is formed in the center of the multifilament aggregate.

The number of twists is also an important factor for increasing the apparent diameter of the filament yarn and increasing the bending stiffness due to the hollow structure. The number of twists is also important by the feel of the required landing, and can be determined by the performance of the knitted fabric. If the number of twists is too large, the stretchability decreases, which is not preferable. The number of twisted yarns is a hollow structural yarn having a cavity at the center of the spiral multifilament yarn aggregate, and the linkage number α obtained from the following formula is 3,000 to 30,000, more preferably as a range for imparting lightness, high resilience and stretchability. Preferably an area of 7,000-20,000 is suitable.

Twist T (T / M) = αD ^1/2

Where α

D: Fineness of multifilament yarn

Here, in the twisted structure of the multifilament yarn of the present invention, with respect to the fabric sample in which the central portion of the spiral multifilament aggregate starts the shape concept of a woven fabric made of hollow structure yarn having a hollow structure, The cross section of the fabric after dyeing completion and the side surface of the yarn (multifilament aggregate) taken out from the fabric are shown in the drawing by enlarging and photographing with a scanning electron microscope.

Figure 3 shows an embodiment of the present invention, and is a weft cross-sectional picture showing a state cut the weft cross section of the fabric. FIG. 4 is an enlarged photograph of the multifilament aggregate of FIG. 1, showing a hollow structure having a cavity structure at the center. Fig. 5 is a side photograph showing the hollow state in the twisted structure of the multifilament yarn. Fig. 6 is an enlarged photograph showing the main part of Fig. 3.

The size of the cavity is usually smaller than the diameter of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn, for example. It is preferable that they are 20 micrometers-200 micrometers. This twists the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn, which is a yarn, and therefore corresponds to about 1/6 to 1/10 of the coil diameter of the yarn.

In the present invention, the crimped conjugated multifilament yarns can be used as a composite yarn in combination with other types of polyester filament yarns. That is, the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and the other polyester filament (B) are crimped, twisted, and wound into a bobbin as a composite yarn. This twisting process is usually a process used to manufacture a woven fabric and to improve the weaving property and to impart resilience and drape to the woven fabric. In this twisting step, there may be a case where single yarn yarns are used, and a plurality of yarns may be used. As described, the obtained composite yarn is woven and dyed and dyed. Since this composite yarn can be manufactured by a conventional conventional process and apparatus, there is an advantage that it is possible to freely select a partner yarn to be combined, in addition to the advantage of not having to increase the process separately.

In the composite yarn, the single filament constituting the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn A is preferable because the ability of the single filament in the aggregated state to express the crimp in a spiral shape is large. In the state in which the single filament is crimped by flammable processing or the like, or in the state in which the single filament is dispersed, the expressed crimp is out of phase, making it difficult to become a coiled (helical) crimp. In that sense, the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A may be focused by performing an air entanglement treatment.

Moreover, a stretched yarn is used for the polyester filament yarn (B) of the composite counterpart. The type of stretched yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used, but is preferably as low as boiling water shrinkage. When the boiling water shrinkage characteristic is high, when the crimp is expressed in the dyeing step, the polyester filament yarn (B) is located in the inner layer of the crimp conjugated conjugate filament yarn (A), and the polyester filament yarn (B) in the composite yarn May not be effective. In addition, the shrinkage ratio is too high like high shrink yarns, and when the shrinkage occurs, the high shrink yarns protrude into the innermost layer, making it difficult to impart stretchability to the fabric. Thus, the shrinkage rate of the polyester filament yarn (B) is preferably lower so as not to interfere with the stretchability when it is crimped, and is usually set at 10% or less, preferably in the range of + 8% to -10%. Do. In addition, the polyester filament yarn (B) may be subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in advance, to reduce the shrinkage rate, and to heat-treat the highly-oriented unoriented yarn to reduce the shrinkage rate.

Moreover, it is preferable that the polyester filament yarn (B) has the characteristic for clarifying the objective and effect of compounding. For example, microfibers are used to impart a soft texture, and microscopic fibers are applied to the fiber surface in order to reduce the specular reflection of light in the alkali weight loss treatment in the dyeing step in order to improve color development. What added ceramic fine particles can be used. Moreover, in order to give a dry touch feeling, a sectional cross-section yarn and a fine particle addition yarn can be used.

Although the effect differs with each of these composite counterpart yarns, the swelling is imparted by crimping in the dyeing step by the composite with the crimping conjugate mulberry filament yarn (A), whereby the effect of the composite relative yarn is more effectively exerted. In this regard, a combination of yarns having different reduction speeds in the alkali weight loss treatment, which is a dyeing step, is preferable.

For example, in a composite yarn comprising a crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) having a crimping ability and a polyester filament yarn (B) whose fiber surface is an alkali-using component, after crimping with a woven fabric Alkali weight loss treatment generates voids between the composite yarn located relatively in the inner layer and the alkali-using component composite yarn located relatively in the outer layer, and the crimp expression force after the relaxation process is easy, thereby making it easier to express swelling and stretchability.

The composite yarn can be composited by a general twisting step in a normal weaving preparation step. In order to wind up with these two threads, there is no problem in the method of first winding with a winder, and then continuously hanging on a double twister or the like, or a method of continuously attaching and pulling like a combiner.

The additional twist number of the crimped composite yarn may be in the converged state as the composite yarn, but in order to express the crimp of the spiral structure, the linkage number α is preferably 3000 or more. The upper limit relates to the total fineness of the crimped composite yarn, and when calculated by the following equation, the linkage number α is preferably 20,000 or less and more preferably 18,000 or less.

α = T × D ^1/2

Where α is the number of linkages.

T: twist (t / m)

D: Fineness of composite yarn (dtex)

When the number of linkages is greater than 20000, the fiber binding force becomes too strong, so that the crimp expression of the composite yarn is small, the swelling pattern is not sufficient, and the stretchability cannot be sufficiently obtained.

In addition, entangled threads due to twist torque may be easily generated, and a twist stop set may be performed in order to lower the twist torque to such an extent that there is no problem in the passability of the weaving process. As set conditions, it is preferable to carry out at low temperature to the extent that there is no problem.

Moreover, as the configuration requirements of the composite yarn, the composition ratio between the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn (A) and the other polyester filament yarn (B), the constituent fineness and the characteristics of the composite partner yarn are important.

First, in the composite of the conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and another polyester filament yarn (B), the fineness of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) is preferably 30 to 150 dtex.

In addition, as a constituent ratio [{A / (A + B)} × 100] in the composite yarn, the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is 30% or more and 60% or less, preferably 35% or more by weight ratio. It is composed of less than 55%. This ratio depends on other polyester filament yarns (B) which constitute the relative yarns, and a small fineness of the single filament which is the relative yarns, for example, a small bending stiffness such as an ultrafine filament yarn, is sufficient at about 30%. When the number of additional twists is high or when the density of the fabric needs to be increased, the ratio of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) is increased. On the contrary, in order to improve black color development, when a high color yarn is used for the yarn of the composite partner, the ratio of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) should be as low as possible, and usually aims at 40%. It is good to set.

The composite yarn of the present invention preferably has a hollow structure in which the inside of the yarn is a cavity. That is, by making a hollow air gap structure by spiral crimping, a light weight and high resilience can be provided. It is also effective to reduce the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the composite partner yarn as low as possible and to reduce the number of additional twists.

7 and 8 show an example of the hollow structure caused by the expression of the spiral crimp of the composite yarn described herein.

Fig. 7 is a micrograph showing the shape of the fiber of the side surface of the composite yarn obtained in Example 12 described later according to the present invention.

8 is a micrograph showing the shape of the fiber of the cut end of the composite yarn obtained in Example 12 described later according to the present invention. In addition, in FIG. 8, since a composite yarn was not cut | disconnected splendidly, a hollow part becomes hard to see a little.

Moreover, in this invention, the crimping process to which the polyester filament yarn (B) of a composite partner piece is combusted is preferable, and the thing using a stretched yarn, POY-DTY, and two types of yarns are composite-processed. One structure may be constructed.

The twisting direction of the crimped composite yarn varies depending on the level of twist, the type of the compound partner, the twisting direction of the additional twist, etc., but the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the flammable polyester multifilament yarn of the composite counterpart used. This is preferred. This is in the direction opposite to the torque of the combustible work in the additional twisting, so that the crimping expression of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn (A) becomes easy to perform because of the direction in which the single filament yarn of the combustible work opens, that is, the bulging direction. Because.

In addition, entangled threads due to twist torque may be easily generated, and a twist stop set may be performed in order to lower the twist torque to such an extent that there is no problem in the passability of the weaving process. As set conditions, it is preferable to carry out at low temperature to the extent that there is no problem.

Moreover, as the configuration requirements of the crimped composite yarn, the composition ratio of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and other combusted polyester filament yarn (B), the constituent fineness and the characteristics of the composite partner yarn are important.

First, in the composite of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) and other combusted polyester filament yarns (B), the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) is 30 to 200 dtex, and the composite yarn As described above, the composition ratio [{A / (A + B)} × 100] of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn (A) is 20% or more and 80% or less, preferably 30% or more by weight ratio. It is composed of less than 60%. This ratio depends on the constituent counterpart yarn, and the fineness of the single filament of the counterpart yarn is small, for example, having bulkiness such as the combustible crimping of the ultrafine filament yarn is usually 20%, but usually 30%. It is good to set a target.

In the present invention, as a composite counterpart yarn, using twisting work such as wool processing, or moreover, working twisting work, etc., and twisting in the opposite direction to the direction of torque of the twisting work to be used, that is, additional twist in the opposite direction However, the single filament yarn of the combustible work acts in the bulging direction, but under this condition, the tightening force of the composite yarn becomes smaller, and when the crimp expression occurs, the void is more likely to be generated by the spiral crimp. Moreover, even if it is twisted in the same direction as the direction of the torque which the false bitumen used has, the space | gap of a hollow structure will generate | occur | produce.

9 and 10 show an example of the hollow structure caused by the expression of the spiral crimp of the composite yarn composed of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn (A) and other combusted polyester filament yarn (B) described herein. do.

Fig. 9 is a micrograph showing the fiber shape of the crimped composite yarn twisted in the direction opposite to the direction of the torque of the used twisted yarn obtained in Example 15 of the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a micrograph showing the fiber shape of the crimped composite yarn that is twisted in the same direction as the direction of torque of the used false work obtained in Example 16 of the present invention.

Next, the knitted fabric using the composite yarn of this invention is demonstrated.

The composite yarn according to the present invention is preferably used as the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric. In the weaving step, in the warp preparation step that is generally used, it is preferable to perform sizing in a region where the twist number is loosely twisted, and other process conditions may be standard. The model of the loom is not particularly limited.

In addition, the fabric texture and density are selected by the required touch of the skin, and are not limited, but may be set to a lazy eye in order to sufficiently exert the crimp expression effect in the dyeing process. In this case, depending on the fabric structure, when sewing and wearing as a fabric after dyeing, it is preferable to set the density of the vitality so that a density more than the degree that the problem of nose misalignment does not occur is obtained.

It can be processed in the dyeing process and conditions used for woven fabrics. For example, in a standard dyeing process, refining, relaxation (e.g., 60 to 100 DEG C on expanded phases such as soap m / c), preset (dry heat 170 to 200 DEG C), alkali reduction (N reduction rate 0 to 35%), Dyeing (liquid dyeing machine 130-135 占 폚), shrink surfer (overfeed relaxation) and finishing set (150-180 占 폚).

As the processing conditions, it is most important to sufficiently perform crimping of the composite yarn, and pay attention to the setting of the relaxation conditions. In order to impart soft resilience to the fabric, it is preferred to be alkali reduced. In addition, it depends on the composition of the composite yarn, the fabric structure and the density, and is determined by converting and testing the reduction rate after relaxation and presetting. Dyeing can increase the wrinkle effect and increase the bulkiness of the composite yarn by using a liquid dyeing machine.

To impart bulging and stretch to the fabric by the composite yarn, the expression crimped water (CB) when boiling water treatment is preferably 8 to 30 acids / for the conjugated multifilament yarn (A) to be used. It is preferable that it has cm and the latent expression ability of 13-27 acid / cm is more preferable.

This crimp expression ability enables crimping expression under the binding force of the fabric tissue, and in order to express the crimping force under the binding force, the shrinkage stress (TS) of the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn (A) having crimp expression ability is Preferably, it is 0.265 cN / dtex or more, More preferably, it is important to hold 0.291 cN / dtex or more (N: Newton). When the number of crimps and shrinkage stress of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is small, the composite yarn is twisted to form a woven fabric and then contracted to express a coiled crimp when subjected to the relaxation heat treatment of the dyeing process. It is difficult, and as a result, it becomes difficult to impart a predetermined bulge and stretch property to the fabric.

Example

(Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1)

Spinning conjugated multifilament unstretched yarn (12 filaments) in which a low viscosity component made of polyethylene terephthalate having an ultimate viscosity of 0.40 and a high viscosity component made of polyethylene terephthalate having an extreme viscosity of 0.75 were bonded in parallel with a weight compounding ratio of 50: 5. After that, the stretching ratio was changed as the stretching conditions to obtain five kinds of stretched yarns described in Table 1 having different fiber properties. Using these stretched yarns, a magnetic crimp yarn was prepared by changing the relaxation heat treatment conditions. The obtained crimped yarn was squeezed with a 32 gauge knitting machine, and the obtained knitted fabric was dyed at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes to compare surface irregularities (expression of fine lines), texture of touch, and stretch (power). The results are shown in Table 1 below.

TABLE 1

In Examples 1, 3, and 4, the number of crimps and the number of expression crimps as characteristics of the magnetic crimped yarn after relaxation heat treatment were sufficient, and the effect was confirmed in the knitted fabric. In addition, Example 2 was slightly inferior to Example 1 because the number of crimps of the magnetic crimp was slightly lower, and the fiber shrinkage rate and shrinkage stress were also low.

On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 is spinning. The relaxation conditions of the stretched conjugated multifilament yarns were examined, and the shrinkage of the yarn itself was large, but the shrinkage stress was small, and it was not possible to obtain sufficient relaxation rate in the relaxation heat treatment, and as a result, the magnetism satisfying the crimping number and the expression crimping number. I didn't get a crimp.

(Example 5, Comparative Example 2)

The yarn in which the regular polyester 55dtex-36F triangular cross-section yarn was added to the warp yarn was used, and the yarns of Example 4 and Comparative Example 1 were put as wefts of de chine standard, respectively, and woven. The obtained vitality was put into the dyeing process of the usual dyed fabric. In the finished woven fabric, the woven fabric using the yarn of Example 4 of the present invention exhibited fine fine wrinkles on the surface of the fabric, exhibited the appearance of goods with irregularities, and had stretchability in the transverse direction of the dry touch. . On the other hand, the fabric using the yarn of Comparative Example 1 exhibited a slippery flat appearance, smooth touch, and almost no stretch.

Example 6

A conjugated multi-filament unstretched yarn obtained by side-by-side bonding a low-viscosity component composed of 100% of polyethylene terephthalate having an ultimate viscosity of 0.40 and a high-viscosity component composed of a polyethylene telephthalate having an extreme viscosity of 0.75 at a weight compounding ratio of 50:50. Spinning was performed to stretch this to obtain a stretched yarn of 55 dtex-12F. The obtained stretched yarn was subjected to relaxation heat treatment using a yarn processing machine used as a normal blending machine equipped with a hollow dowsum type heater having a heater length of 1 m to obtain a crimped yarn. In the relaxation heat treatment condition, the heater temperature was 120 ° C and the relaxation rate was 7%. The yarn characteristics of the obtained crimps were 55.0 dtex of fineness, 5.4 acids / cm of crimping water (CA), 13.7 acids / cm of residual expression crimping water (CB), and 0.194 cN / dtex of shrinkage stress (peak temperature of 188 ° C). The water shrinkage was 3.4% and the appearance shrinkage was 68.0%.

Two of the crimped yarns were combined to give 1000 t / m (Z lead) of this. Separately, semi-stretched 88dtex-24 filament yarn having 160% elongation after spinning polyester polymer at a spinning speed of 3000m / min was heat-set with a 160 ℃ dry heat heater, and a 12% boiling water shrinkage was applied to this thread. The 110 dtex-18 filament of polyester regular yarn having air was subjected to air entanglement with an interlace nozzle to obtain a polyester biaxially blended yarn of 170 dtex-42 filament, and an additional twist of 800 t / m (S lead) was added to the yarn. Both kinds of the obtained yarns were twist-stopped set by steam for 40 minutes at 65 degreeC. These yarns were alternately arranged one by one with warp and weft yarns, respectively, and in the water jet room (WJL), weaving a fabric of thin slanted and weaved tissues. In addition, the boiling water shrinkage of the used biaxially blended yarn was 8%.

The densities of the resulting vigor were 117 slant / 2.54 cm and 79 weft thread / 2.54 cm. In addition, the weight ratio of the crimped yarn and the polyester biaxially blended yarn in the raw material was 39:61. This raw material was processed under the standard processing conditions by the standard dyeing process, refining, relaxation, presetting, alkali reduction, dyeing, and finished set of "synthetic islands". The density of the degree of warping is 182 slopes / 2.54cm and 100 wefts / 2.54cm. The shrinkage of the livestock is 55% in the width direction and 26% in the longitudinal direction. A fabric with surface change, excellent stretch and stretch bag, and delicate touch was obtained.

To compare with this, 800 t / m of regular polyester multifilament yarn 165 dtex-48F with 8% boiling water shrinkage as a yarn for yarn and 1000 t / m of combustible yarn applied to commercially available Woolly processing yarn 110 dtex-36F. The yarns to which additional twist was applied were alternately arranged one by one with warp and weft yarns, and weaved under the same conditions as in Examples, and dyed finish processing was performed. When the obtained fabric was evaluated, it was insufficient in the sense of quality without a stretch and the stretch property.

(Example 7, Comparative Example 3)

Using the same yarn as that of the crimped yarn obtained in Example 6, the yarn was cut into an interlock structure by a JIL-7 type 32 gauge 30 inch double circular knitting machine (manufactured by Restoration Machine). The knitting conditions were 180 cm wide, 64 m long, and 8.9 k (140 g / m) in weight. The wale course was carried out at 42.3 x 55 and the loop length of 197 mm / 100w. Subsequently, the obtained crude oil was dyed by ordinary conditions in the steps of refining, relaxation, preliminary set, alkali loss, dyeing and finishing set.

The curvature of the obtained degree of curvature was 115 cm in width, 46.6 m in length, 7.4 k in weight (160 g / m in weight), and Whale × course was 64.6 × 76.8. The obtained circular knitted fabric shrinks 53% in the wale direction and 40% in the coarse direction to express a three-dimensional crimp, and has a bulkiness and an anti-transparent effect, and the surface effect is a three-dimensional crimp that cannot be obtained from a conventional yarn. It was to display a unique expression, and the touch of the landing had a soft dry touch. Moreover, as shown in Table 2, stretch property felt power compared with the knitted fabric of the conventional combustible work, and was very rich in novelty. This means that the number of crimps expressed in the crimped yarn is 5.4 acids / cm, equivalent to 1.8mm / 1, whereas the loop length is 1.97mm, so that one crimp is present in one loop, and the number of potential expression crimps expressed in dyeing is 13.7. It is thought to be an effect which makes it easy to express the three-dimensional crimp of acid / cm.

For comparison, using a commercially available combustible work 55dtex-24F (2 heaters combustible work), was sectioned under the same conditions as in Example 7, and dyeing was carried out simultaneously with the working example. The obtained knitted fabric showed the expression of a normal processed yarn, and bulkiness and permeability were excellent, unlike multifilament raw yarn, but lacked a sense of quality and lacked stretchability. These results are shown in Table 2 below.

TABLE 2

[Measuring conditions]

It conforms to JIS (1018) "Mary's dough test method" ... graph method.

Grabbing thickness: 7.6cm

Tensile speed: 10 cm / min

Chart speed: 20 cm / min

Ultra load: 3 g

Static load: 1.5 kg

(Example 8)

Using the crimped yarn of 55dtex-12F obtained in Example 6, the warp knitted paper was started. In the 28-gauge single tricot, two loom bodies were used together with this crimp, and then sectioned into an Atlas organization. The cutting conditions were 128.6 cm in width, 433 racks in length, 8.4 k in weight, and Whale × Course was carried out at 28.0 × 90.0. Subsequently, this obtained raw material was dyed by normal conditions in the process of set | set of a vigor, refinement | relamination, a preset, alkali reduction, dyeing, and a finishing set.

The degree of warpage of the obtained finish was 115 cm in width, 46.6 m in length, 7.4 k in weight (160 g / m in weight), and Whale × course was 64.6 × 76.8. The obtained warp knitted paper was contracted by 24% in the wale direction and 43% in the course direction to express a three-dimensional crimp, which has bulkiness and an anti-transparent effect, and the surface effect was not obtained conventionally. It has a dry touch that is soft and soft to the touch, and stretch property feels power compared to the knitting of the conventional combustible work, and was extremely rich in novelty.

(Example 9, Comparative Example 4)

Conjugated multifilament unstretched in which a low viscosity component composed of 100% of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity and a high viscosity component composed of a polyethylene telephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 is bonded in parallel with a weight compounding ratio of 50:50. After spinning, stretching was performed by an ordinary stretching machine to prepare a conjugated multifilament yarn of 110 dtex-24 filament.

The fiber properties of this multifilament yarn were measured in accordance with JIS L1023 "Test Method of Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn" and JIS L1096 "Testing Method of Synthetic Fiber Filament Bulky Yarn." As a result, the fineness 110.6 dtex and the strength 3.26 cN / dtex boiling water shrinkage rate 4.0 % Shrinkage stress: 0.357 cN / dtex. This multifilament yarn was further twisted at 1500T / M (corresponding to the linkage coefficient α = 15000), followed by a set of twist stops by vacuum steam set at 65 ° C for 40 minutes. Subsequently, this multifilament yarn was used for both warp and weft yarns to weave the fabric of the twill change structure. At this time, the density was 94 x 76 pieces / in. The resulting vitality was dyed as follows. That is, the raw material was relaxed heat treated at 110 ° C. by the liquid flow batch method, middle heat set by the pin tenter method at dry heat 190 ° C., and the dye was reduced at 130 ° C. by 20% alkali reduction. The density of the degree of warpage of the finish was 123 x 92 pieces / in.

For comparison, a commercially available drawing twisted fabric of 110dtex-48 filament was used, and the twist number, weaving condition, and dyeing condition of the additional twist were carried out in the same manner as in Example 9, and a fabric of approximately the same standard was prepared. . The fabric obtained in Example 9 has a very high repulsion property and is a fabric having a light dry stretch feeling that is light and abundant in stretch, whereas the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 4 has a firm landing with a strong twist of additional twist. It was the touch, and none of lightness, repulsion, and lightness fell far from Example 9.

(Example 10, Comparative Example 5)

Using the yarn subjected to the additional twist of Example 9, the knitting was made by interlocking tissue by hanging on a 28-gauge circular knitting machine. For comparison, the low-stretched and twisted torque of regular POY was further twisted at an additional twist of 1200T / M to the twisted yarn 82.5dtes-24 filament yarn, which was set to twist stop and interlocked with a 28-gauge circular knitting machine as in Example 10. Knitted into tissue. The obtained vitality was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 10 and Comparative Example 4. In the obtained knitted fabric, the knitted fabric according to Example 10 was superior to the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 5, and was excellent in resilience, and had a great stretch power and an excellent sense of tilting.

(Examples 11-18, Comparative Examples 6-9)

Conjugated multifilament unstretched, in which a low viscosity component composed of 100% of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40 and a high viscosity component composed of a polyethylene telephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 are bonded side-by-side at a compounding ratio of 50:50. Was spun and stretched to obtain crimp stretched yarn of 50dtex-12F. The conjugate multifilament crimped yarn had a fineness of 51.6 dtex, an expression crimp number of 15.2 acids / cm, a shrinkage stress of 0.441 acids / dtex (peak temperature of 155 ° C), a fiber shrinkage rate of 4.6%, and an appearance shrinkage rate of 65.2%.

Non-torque yarns and Z-twist wool fabrics processed by composite yarns by heat-treating ordinary polyester multifilament drawn yarns, polyester multifilament yarns and highly oriented untwisted yarns using the obtained conjugate multifilament crimped yarns Using, each composite yarn was prepared. These composite yarns were used to start the fabric.

In addition, as a comparative example, woolly processing of 165 dtex-48 filament was used alone, and was woven in the same manner as above to obtain a fabric (wiping cloth). None of the fabrics had a density of denier converted cover factor in 2/2 tuition. Dyeing was processed under standard processing conditions of relaxation, preset, alkali reduction, dyeing, and finishing set. The results are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.

TABLE 3

TABLE 4

According to the present invention, a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by parallel spinning or core-and-poly composite spinning and stretching of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties is subjected to relaxation heat treatment to form a magnetic crimping yarn. By relaxing again in the dyeing process, it is possible to obtain a new kind of knitted fabric with a surface change due to the effect of fine wrinkles on the surface of the knitted fabric, dry touch and stretch characteristics as well.

In addition, since the knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a hollow structural yarn composed of multifilament yarns having a hollow core structure, the knitted fabric of the present invention is lighter than the knitted fabric obtained by weaving and knitting by conventional twisting of polyester multifilament. In addition to stretch properties, it is a woven fabric with excellent high resilience characteristics, and can exhibit characteristics in light medical applications such as shirts and blouses.

Furthermore, according to the present invention, the crimp-expressing treatment is a composite crimped yarn formed of a side-by-side or a sheath-shaped conjugate filament yarn (A) and a polyester multifilament yarn (B) of different polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties. The conjugate filament yarn (A) is located in the relatively inner layer of the composite yarn, thereby exhibiting magnetic crimping, and retains the hollow structure in which the polyester multifilament yarn (B) other than the composite partner is placed on the relatively outer layer of the yarn layer, and is pulled. It can be made of crimped composite yarn and woven fabric having elasticity and soft bulging feeling and having stretch property. This knitted fabric has a comfortable fit in not only a medical field such as a suit, a jacket, a bottom and a coat, but also a light medical use such as a shirt and a blouse, and a new development is expected.

Claims (23)

A crimped yarn comprising two or more polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties, in which a conjugated multifilament yarn is bonded in parallel or in a deep or supercritical manner, which satisfies the following characteristics (a) and (b). (a) 2.5 peaks / cm ≤ crimp yarn (CA) ≤ 10 peaks / cm (b) 8 acid / cm ≤ expression crimp number (CB) ≤ 30 acid / cm The crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn satisfies the following characteristics (c) to (e). (c) 0.0882 ≤ shrinkage stress (TS) (cN / dtex) ≤ 0.221 (d) 40% ≤ appearance shrinkage (SC) ≤ 80% (e) 2% ≤ boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW) ≤ 8% A conjugated multifilament yarn in which two or more polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are bonded in parallel, core, or supervision is manufactured, and the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. The method of manufacturing the crimping yarn of Claim 2. It consists of the crimping yarn of Claim 1 or 2, The knitted fabric characterized by the above-mentioned. The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein a conjugate multifilament yarn having a fineness of 30 to 350 dtex is used. The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used by 35% by weight or more of the constituent yarn. The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the woven fabric is formed by shrinking 10 to 60% in the width and length directions by heat treatment to express the crimp. The woven fabric according to claim 7, wherein the crimping yarn which expresses the crimp is a crimping yarn having a cavity structure at the center of the combustible spiral multifilament aggregate. A woven knitted fabric made of hollow structural yarns comprising a spiral multifilament aggregate in which conjugated multifilament yarns are twisted, and a central portion thereof is composed of multifilament yarns having a hollow structure. The woven fabric made of hollow structural yarns according to claim 9, wherein the multifilament yarns are conjugate multifilament yarns formed by crimping and expression. The woven fabric made of hollow structural yarns according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the multifilament yarn is made of hollow fiber. The woven fabric made of hollow structural yarns according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the multifilament yarns are combustible in a range of 3000 to 30000. A composite yarn characterized in that a conjugate filament yarn (A) having a crimp expression ability (A) having two or more kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties is twisted and twisted with another polyester filament yarn (B). The composite yarn according to claim 13, wherein the other polyester filament yarn (B) is a twisted polyester filament yarn. 15. The composite yarn according to claim 14, wherein the composite yarn is twisted in a direction opposite to the torque of the combustible polyester filament yarn (B). The composite yarn according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the composite yarn has been twisted at an associated number α of 3000 to 25000. However, the number of linkages (α) = T × D ^1/2 T: twist (t / m) D: Fineness of composite yarn (dtex) The composite yarn according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the linkage number α is 3000 to 20000. The composite yarn according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the central portion has a cavity structure. The fineness of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is 30 to 350 dtex, and the fineness of the other polyester filament yarn (B) is 30 to 800 dtex. Composite yarn. The ratio of the conjugated multifilament yarn (A) to the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) and the other polyester filament yarn (B) is in a weight ratio according to any one of claims 13 to 15. , A composite yarn characterized in that 0.2 ≦ A / (A + B) ≦ 0.8. The expression crimp number (CB) and shrinkage stress (TS) of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) are as follows. 8 ≤ CB (acid / cm) ≤ 30 TS (g) ≥ 0.265 cN / dtex Composite yarn characterized in that to satisfy. A composite yarn formed by subjecting the composite yarn according to any one of claims 13 to 15 to heat treatment to express crimp. The knitted fabric which consists of a composite yarn as described in any one of Claims 13-15.