JPH07252743A - Woven fabric of conjugated yarn of rayon and polyester and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a material for clothing composed of a fabric woven mainly from rayon filaments and excellent in shape stability and capable of making warm in winter when humidity is low because of its high porosity air volume and making cool in summer when humidity is high because of heat of vaporization removed by vaporization of absorbed moisture. CONSTITUTION:This fabric is woven from a rayon-polyester conjugated yarn composed of 25 to 50wt.% non-crimped polyester filament core yarns and 75 to 50wt.% rayon filament sheath yarns and having 15 to 25% difference in yarn length. The woven fabric has >=100/cm<2> fluffs each having 1 to 3/mm crimped waves on the fabric surface and 4.0 to 5.5cm<3>/g specific volume.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric, and more particularly to a woven fabric having a new texture which is bulky and warm with a composite yarn composed mainly of rayon filaments and polyester filaments, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Rayon filament yarns cannot be crimped like false twisted yarns of polyester filaments because they are not thermoplastic. Therefore, the woven fabric lacks bulkiness and is always flat, and is characterized by high drapeability in combination with the heaviest specific gravity of 1.5 for clothing fibers.
In addition, the official moisture regain is 11%, which is a fiber having a high hygroscopicity in the fiber for clothing, and the woven fabric also has a cool touch feeling due to the hygroscopicity and the flatness described above. That is, the texture characteristics of the conventional rayon filament woven fabric can be said to be cool touch and drapability.

Further, the rayon filament yarn has a volume swelling ratio in water (min) of about 100%, undergoes a drastic morphological change due to swelling-deswelling, and has no heat setting property. Since it is 10% or more, it is not suitable for clothing, particularly outer clothing, and is not widely accepted.

[0004] Attempts to impart shrinkproofness to rayon filament woven fabrics and develop it for clothing, particularly outer clothing, have been made by post-processing with resins or composite yarns with synthetic fibers having heat setting properties. However, this resin-processed or composite yarn-made woven fabric is merely an improvement in shrinkage stability and the like, and is intended to maintain the cold feel and drapability which are the basic texture characteristics of the above-mentioned rayon filament woven fabric. It wasn't something that was going to change significantly. Furthermore, the present invention does not provide a new texture.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention not only provides morphological stability to a woven fabric mainly composed of rayon filaments, but also provides a new texture not found in conventional clothing fibers. It is what That is, the present invention is
25% to 50% by weight of non-crimped polyester filament as a core yarn and 75% to 50% by weight of rayon filament as a side yarn, with a difference in yarn length of 15% to 25%
A woven fabric composed of rayon polyester composite yarn of
A woven fabric having 100 fluff / cm ² or more on the surface of the woven fabric and a specific volume of 3.2 cm ³ / g or more, and further having a crimped wave of 1 to 3 fluff / mm. There, specific volume is woven is 4.0cm ³ /g~5.5cm ³ / g.

In order to obtain these woven fabrics, the monofilament denier is 4 to 6 denier and the maximum shrinkage stress is 250 mg.
/ Dr or more, maximum shrinkage stress temperature is 125 ° C or more, Wsr
Is 20 to 25%, Dsr is 30 to 40%, and the dyeing rate at 100 ° C. is 80% or more. Alternatively and / or, after weaving as a weft, a method for producing a woven fabric is characterized by shrinking the fabric in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction by 20% or more in the dyeing process, and further, a single fiber denier
The maximum contraction stress is 250 mg / d.
r or more, maximum shrinkage stress temperature of 125 ° C. or more, Wsr of 2
0 to 25%, Dsr 30 to 40%, dyeing rate at 100 ° C. of 80% or more, 30dr to 75dr copolymer polyester filament and rayon multifilament at a twist number of 300 to 800 times / m. After twisting, the Wsr obtained by false twisting at a temperature of 200 ° C or less in the additional twisting direction is 5
% To 15% and Dsr to 15 to 25% of the composite yarn is woven as warp and / or weft, and then shrinked by 20% or more in the machine direction and the transverse direction of the fabric in the dyeing process. It is a manufacturing method.

The present invention will be further described in detail. The greatest feature of the present invention is that, while the woven fabric mainly composed of 100% rayon filament or the conventional rayon filament has a cold feeling and drape, it can be said to be the opposite, warmth and bulkiness. That is, it has a light weight feeling. The present invention is all about the structure of the woven fabric after dyeing and finishing, and the structure of the composite yarn unwound from the woven fabric. Warmth and bulkiness are high air content and the feel of the surface. In the present invention, it was quantified by the difference in yarn length, the specific volume, and the number of fluffs having a crimped web protruding on the surface of the woven fabric.

First, the rayon filament mixing ratio will be described. The present invention is mainly based on rayon filaments, not reverse polyester filaments. Therefore, the mixing ratio of the polyester filament is 50% by weight or less. This is because when the polyester filament mixing ratio exceeds 50% by weight, the main component of the feel is the polyester filament and the texture of the present invention cannot be obtained, but rather the worsted feel of the polyester new synthetic fiber is obtained. If the polyester filament content is less than 25% by weight, the shape stability, which is one of the objects of the present invention, cannot be obtained. The mixing ratio for obtaining morphological stability and new texture is 25% by weight to 50% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight and 40% by weight. At this time, it is important that the polyester filament has no crimp. When the polyester filament has crimps, the bulkiness is increased, but even if the mixing ratio is 25% by weight, the feel is similar to that of polyester. Further, even if the polyester filament is a side yarn, the feel is similar to that of polyester.

Next, the specific volume will be described. The specific volume measuring method adopted in the present invention is as described at the end of the text, but the load is 7 g / cm ² , which is often adopted in woolen fabrics. In the present invention this ratio volume is at 3.2 cm ³ / g or more, even at 4cm ³ /g~5.5cm ³ / g. This value is 100% of conventional rayon filament
Considering that the woven fabric is about 1.5 cm ³ / g, this is an extremely high value. Due to this high specific volume (high air content) and the fluff described later, the cool touch feeling and the drapeable texture which are the characteristics of the conventional rayon filament woven fabrics are brought to the warmth, bulkiness and light weight of the present invention for the first time. It can be a new textured fabric with a feeling.

In order to achieve this specific volume, first, the yarn length difference of the composite yarn in which the rayon filament constituting the woven fabric is the side yarn and the polyester filament is the core yarn must be 15% or more. When the difference in yarn length is less than 15%, the high specific volume of the present invention cannot be achieved, and 100 or more fluffs / cm ² are not generated on the surface of the woven fabric. On the other hand, the yarn length difference is 25%
If it exceeds, the Young's modulus of the polyester filament after shrinkage is too low, and the woven fabric is likely to be stretched by an external force, and the feel is unfavorable.

Further, according to the present invention, 4 cm ^{3 /} g to 5.5 cm ³
In order to achieve a specific volume as high as / g, it is not sufficient to secure this difference in yarn length, and the rayon filament, which is the side yarn, must have crimps.
As described above, since the rayon filament is not thermoplastic, it seems that it is impossible to give the rayon filament a crimp, but the polyester filament shrinks more than the rayon filament as in the present invention, It is possible when the length difference is 15% or more.

That is, the conventional rayon filament 1
When false-twisting a 00% yarn, the rayon filament is naturally not thermoplastic and a strong and clear crimp cannot be obtained. However, the distortion due to false-twisting (the false-twist crimp habit) remains, and it is extremely wound. Crimp fastness is weak, but crimp is developed by heat. In the case of a 100% rayon filament woven fabric, this crimp disappears without a trace due to the swelling-de-swelling of the rayon filament and the dyeing tension in the dyeing step, but in the present invention, the polyester filament is a rayon filament. Since the polyester filaments are more sufficiently shrunk and the dyeing tension is absorbed by the polyester filaments, distortion due to false twist (false twist) can be expressed as crimps.

In the present invention, the crimped web has an important meaning. One is to secure the above-mentioned high specific volume, and the other is when the crimped web is present at the same time as the yarn length difference of 15% or more of the present invention, 1 to 3 pieces are formed on the surface of the woven fabric. /
100 fluff / cm as fluff with a crimped wave of mm
^This is because it projects ^two or more and creates a unique touch.

The fluff protruding on the surface of the present invention is a rayon filament and has a low strength (about 1 g / g).
Because of dr), open-ended fluff is likely to occur, but in the present invention, looped fluff that is not open-ended, open-ended fluff, or a mixture of both may be used. If the number of fluffs is less than 100 / cm ² , the unique span-like texture effect is poor.

Although the rayon filaments may be false twisted alone and air-entangled with the high-shrinkage polyester filaments used in the present invention, the structure as in the present invention may be obtained. -Yong filament has low strength,
Since false twisting occurs frequently and yarn breakage occurs frequently, it is extremely difficult to perform false twisting independently, and industrial mass production is impossible.

As a result of a study by the present inventors regarding the specific volume (a woven fabric made of a composite yarn in which rayon filaments are side yarns and polyester filaments are core yarns), a conventional rayon filament woven fabric is obtained at 3.0 cm ³ / g or less. 3.2 cm with a characteristic drape and a cool touch feeling
^When it exceeds ³ / g, it suddenly exhibits a warmth and bulkiness, which is an unprecedented texture. Furthermore, as in the present invention, 4.0
At cm ³ / g or more, a texture that is completely unprecedented is exhibited. On the other hand, if it exceeds 5.5 cm ³ / g, the bulkiness is too strong, and it does not feel stuffy and does not come off, resulting in an unfavorable feeling as an outer garment.

Next, a specific method for obtaining the woven fabric of the present invention will be described. First, the polyester filament used will be described. Since the rayon filament has low strength as described above, if the yarn length difference as in the present invention is given before weaving, fluff is generated in the preparation process such as twisting and sizing, and the weaving property is extremely deteriorated. Therefore, the present invention causes a difference in yarn length in the dyeing process after weaving. For this reason, the polyester filament must be a high-stress, high-shrink yarn, and especially must retain high shrink performance even after false twisting. The polyester filament used in the present invention has a maximum shrinkage stress temperature of 12
High stress of 5 ° C. or higher, preferably 125 ° C. or higher and 150 ° C. or lower (dry heat), maximum shrinkage stress of 250 mg / dr (dry heat) or higher, and Wsr of 20 to 25% and Dsr of 30.
-40% copolymer high shrinkage yarn, 100 ° C
It is an easy-to-disperse dyeing yarn having a dyeing rate of 80% or more.

Usually, the shrinkage performance and the dyeing rate of these materials are changed by false twisting. That is, WsrDsr and the dyeing rate decrease, and the maximum shrinkage stress and its temperature increase.

Wsr of the polyester filaments in the composite yarn after false twisting used in the present invention is 5% to 15%, Dsr is 15 to 25%, and the maximum shrinkage stress is 250 mg / dr or more,
The maximum shrinkage stress temperature is 130 ° C. or higher, and the dyeing rate is 80% or higher.

The reason why the yarn has high stress and high shrinkage regardless of the presence or absence of false twist is to secure the yarn length difference of the present invention after weaving as described above. The maximum shrinkage stress at this time is 250 m
If it is less than g / dr, a force sufficient to shrink the fabric beyond the tissue restraining force cannot be obtained. At this time, if the maximum shrinkage stress temperature is less than 125 ° C (dry heat), the dyeing temperature is 100 ° C.
In the above case, it does not shrink, and the dyeing tension causes it to expand, which is not good.

On the other hand, the shrinkage ratio for obtaining the difference in yarn length according to the present invention depends on the presence or absence of false twist of the composite yarn. That is, when false twisting is not performed, the shrinkage rate of the polyester filament is 20 to 25% for Wsr and 30 to 40 for Dsr.
%is necessary. Wsr is less than 20%, Dsr
Is less than 30%, the yarn length difference of the present invention cannot be secured. Also, Wsr exceeds 25%, Dsr is 40%
If it exceeds the above range, the shrinkage rate becomes too high, and it becomes difficult to control the shrinkage in the dyeing process, and the feeling is overwhelmed by exceeding the yarn length difference of the present invention. In this respect, the contraction rate when false-twisting is 5 to 15% for Wsr and 15 to 25% for Dsr.
If so, the yarn length difference of the present invention can be secured. This is because in the case of the present invention, some twist length difference (less than 5%) is added by false twist.

The polyester filament used in the present invention must be copolymer-modified. This is because with a normal polyester that is not modified, even if a shrinkable yarn is obtained, it does not become a high stress and highly shrinkable yarn as in the present invention.
This is because the shrinkage performance required for the present invention cannot be obtained especially after passing heat of 150 ° C. or higher, which is a general false twist temperature. In this respect, the copolymer-modified polyester filament used in the present invention is a high-stress and high-shrink yarn having the above-described shrinkage performance before and after false twisting.

The reason why the yarn has high stress and high shrinkage is to secure the yarn length difference of the present invention after weaving as described above. At this time, if the maximum shrinkage stress is less than 250 mg / dr, a force sufficient to shrink the fabric beyond the tissue restraining force cannot be obtained,
If Wsr is less than 5% or Dsr is less than 15%, the yarn length difference of 15% or more required in the present invention cannot be obtained. At this time, if the maximum shrinkage stress temperature is less than 130 ° C. (dry heat), it does not shrink at the dyeing temperature of 100 ° C. or more, and the dyeing tension causes elongation, which is not good and Wsr exceeds 25%, and Dsr is If it exceeds 40%,
On the contrary, the shrinkage ratio is too high, and shrinkage control becomes difficult in the dyeing process, and the feeling is overwhelmed by exceeding the yarn length difference of the present invention.

The highly shrinkable yarn used in the present invention is 100 ° C.
It is an easy-to-disperse dyeing yarn having a dyeing rate of 80% or more. However, since this rayon is usually dyed in a dyeing bath at 100 ° C. or lower, if the above-mentioned easy-to-disperse dyeing is performed, it is called rayon. This is because it is possible to dye polyester simultaneously, which is economically advantageous.

The polyester high shrinkage yarn used in the present invention is
It is indispensable to consist of a copolymerized polyester, and as the copolymerization component, isophthalic acid, 5-metal sulfoisophthalic acid, bisphenol A alkylene oxide adduct, bisphenol S alkylene oxide adduct, dicarboxylic acid having an alicyclic skeleton, etc. They can be used alone or in combination, and the copolymerization composition and various conditions at the time of fiber formation may be appropriately set so as to satisfy the above-mentioned shrinkage characteristics.

An example thereof will be explained. For example, a polyester polymer having an "η" of 0.65 obtained by copolymerizing 4 mol% of an ethylene oxide adduct (BPE) of bisphenol A with a spinning temperature of 290 to 295 ° C and a spinning speed. 1300
It can be obtained by spinning at m / min, stretching 3.3 times (temp 105 ° C.) without winding, and winding. At this time, what is particularly important is that “η” does not become less than 0.6. If it is less than 0.6, the shrinkage stress of the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, since this polymer thickens during spinning and is easily gelled, it is necessary to avoid using it at 0.7 or more, or to add a thinning agent when using it. When the spinning speed is 1200 m / min or less, the shrinkage stress of the present invention cannot be obtained. When the stretching temperature is 100 ° C or lower, the maximum stress temperature is less than 125 ° C.
If the number of modified moles is less than 4 moles, the shrinkage performance of the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the number of modified moles exceeds 6 moles, the shrinkage stress of the present invention cannot be obtained or the spinnability is deteriorated. The contraction performance of the present invention can be satisfied only when these conditions are satisfied. The example of the BPE modification has been described above, but a polyester filament satisfying the shrinkage performance of the present invention and having easy dispersibility for dyeing is not particularly limited to the modifying agent, but the spinning conditions satisfying all of them are sufficient. Need to consider.

At this time, the monofilament denier is 4 to 6 denier. In the ordinary polyester filament, the reason that the monofilament denier is relatively thick denier is to keep tension and light weight even if the rayon filament having a high specific gravity is held as a side thread. . This is because if it is less than 4 dr, sufficient tension cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 6 dr, it gives a rough and rough touch and gives a brilliant gloss.

On the other hand, the rayon filament used in the present invention will be described. In the present invention, the yarn is limited to continuous yarn rather than cake yarn. This is because the cake yarns have different dyeing properties in the inner, middle and outer layers, and when composite processing with polyester filaments is continuously carried out as in the present invention, it is substantially impossible to select the yarns and dyeing unevenness occurs. . At this time, the single fiber denier, the cross section, and the glossiness are not particularly limited as long as it is within a range that can be usually used for clothing, but the preferable single fiber denier is 1.
It should be noted that the number of fluffs on the surface of the woven fabric may not satisfy the present invention when the monofilament denier of 10 to 3 denier is 3 to 3 denier. Further, in the present invention, as long as it has the contraction performance of general continuous spinning (Wsr 6% or less), it can be used.

Next, the composite method without false twisting will be described. The compounding adopts the air-entanglement method. The air-entanglement method includes the interlace method and the Taslan method. In the case of the present invention, the point of this step is to entangle the polyester filaments and rayon filaments so as not to separate them, and it is not the point to give a yarn length difference here as described above. Therefore, the interlace method is preferable to the Taslan method (in the present invention, since the polyester filament is as thick as 4 to 6 denier, the Taslan method which gives a difference in yarn length is easy to separate from the rayon).
At this time, in order to suppress the generation of fluff of the rayon, the air pressure is set to 2 kg / cm ² or less, the overfeed difference is set to 2% or less, and the rayon filament is overlaid. -It is important that the feed rate is -1% to 2%. Further, since it is a slippery composite yarn having no crimp, the pattern winding is superior in the morphological stability to the cheese winding and is preferable.

Next, false twist will be described. As described above, the single false twist of the rayon filament is industrially impossible, and the following method is adopted in the present invention. That is, the false twisting property can be secured to a level at which there is no problem in mass productivity by falsely twisting the polyester filaments at the same time and by using a twisted yarn having a twist number of 300 to 800 turns / m. For false twisting, an ordinary pin false twisting machine, friction false twisting machine, or nip type false twisting machine can be used.
Friction false twisters should be avoided to ensure higher crimps. Further, in the pin false twisting machine, the tension (T ₂ ) after passing through the pin becomes high and fluffing is likely to occur. To improve this, false twisting with three pins that is falsely twisted without being wound around the pin is effective.

Prior to false twisting, as described above, the twisting is carried out at a twisting number of 300 to 800 turns / m in order to improve the passability of the false twisting process. At this time, if less than 300 turns / m, fluffing and yarn breakage occur frequently. If it exceeds 800 times / m, the torque is strong and heat setting is required, and then the required shrinkage performance cannot be obtained or the specific volume of the present invention is not reached. A more preferable range is 400 to 500 times / m. When false twisting is performed in the untwisting direction, bulkiness increases, but fluffing and yarn breakage occur frequently, and it is important to false twist in the additional twisting direction.

At the time of false twisting, the point is to secure the above-mentioned shrinkage performance, and it is necessary to pay attention so that the false twisting temperature does not become too high and the shrinkage performance is impaired.
A preferred range is 150 ° C to 200 ° C. The number of false twists is
The number of false twists to be adopted is 1000 to 3000 times / m, though it is not particularly limited as long as it is within a normal range. The polyester filament has crimps at the stage after the false twist.

If the yarn length difference is high at this stage, the yarn length difference must be suppressed to 5% because the yarn difference is likely to occur in the subsequent weaving process and fluff is likely to occur. Therefore, it is not possible to adopt a condition that gives an overfeed of 5% or more in the false twisting process. Specific false-twisted overfiber of the composite yarn used in the present invention
The field is -1 to 4%. Also, because of the crimp set, a so-called 2-heater false twist that gives an overfeed of about 10% cannot be adopted.

The weaving is carried out by the usual method of rayon weaving, but additional twisting may be carried out if necessary and within the range not impairing the present invention. It goes without saying that a water jet room that uses water cannot be used. The key to the weaving of the present invention is density. In the present invention, in order to secure the yarn length difference of the present invention, the greige is shrunk by 20% or more in the dyeing process, and therefore the greige density that allows for the contraction must be set to obtain a hard and firm fabric. Further, the yarn length difference of the present invention cannot be obtained. The greige density is 10 to 3 compared with the case of rayon filament alone.
You have to go down by 0%.

Next, the dyeing process will be described. The point in the dyeing process of the present invention is to fully exhibit the shrinkage performance of the polyester filament in the processed yarn.
That is, in the dyeing process, the length of the fabric is reduced by 20% or more in the transverse direction to secure the yarn length difference of the present invention. If this difference in yarn length is less than 15%, the specific volume of the present invention is not achieved, and no protruding fluff on the surface appears. Further, due to this shrinkage, the crimp of the polyester filament due to false twist disappears and the crimp of the rayon filament is developed, and the yarn form of the woven fabric of the present invention is not achieved until the crimp of the rayon filament appears.

20% both in the vertical and horizontal directions of the fabric
The above shrinkage is performed by dry heat and / or wet heat (in the bath). When contracting, it is easier to control the texture by contracting in two or more stages than contracting 20% or more at a time. In the present invention, the greige may be shrunk by 20% or more, and the shrinkage rate in each step of the dyeing process is not particularly specified, but the following method can be adopted, for example. Scouring in the bath at 80 to 100 ° C (both vertical and horizontal shrink 5 to 10% less than the raw machine), relaxing in the bath at 100 to 130 ° C (both vertical and horizontal shrink more than 20% from the raw machine) or 150 to 180 ° C dry Relax with heat (more than 20% more than the length of the raw machine in both length and width) 160 to 20
0 ° C dry heat preset (both vertical and horizontal pull out from relaxation rate 0 to 5%), 100 to 135 ° C bath dyeing (both vertical and horizontal shrinkage from preset 0 to 5%), Final set at 150-180 ° C (drawing rate 1-3% in both vertical and horizontal directions).

It should be noted that wrinkle processing, sanding processing, napped processing, bio-processing, etc., which are widely performed as an accessory processing for giving an expression and feeling, are all acceptable.
It is recommended to avoid alkali reduction processing with caustic soda as it will damage the rayon. Further, shrinkage and kneading under heating and low tension using an air-tumbler or an air-flow dyeing machine manufactured by TEN Co., Ltd. is also effective as a texture.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The measuring methods adopted in the present invention are as follows. Specific volume (cm ³ / g): 10 pieces of samples obtained by cutting a woven fabric into squares of 5 cm × 5 cm are prepared. The total weight of 10 sheets is measured in the standard state (Wg). The thickness obtained by compressing 10 stacked samples with a predetermined load of 7 g / cm ² and an area of 2 cm ² is Hcm and is calculated by the following formula. This operation is performed under standard conditions. Specific volume (cm ³ / g) = (5 × 5 × H) / W

Shrinkage rate Wsr, Dsr: JIS L1
013 Hot water shrinkage B method, dry heat shrinkage B method. However, the initial load is 1/30 g / dr, the temperature of Wsr is 100 ° C, D
The temperature of sr is 180 ℃

Difference in yarn length: The composite yarn is released from the fabric, and if twisted, it is untwisted under a load of 0.05 g / dr. Untwisted yarn as it is under 0.05g / dr load 3
Collect 0 cm. Further, the rayon filament is separated and the length is measured under a load of 0.05 g / dr (L ₀ ) Yarn length difference (%) = {(L ₀ -30) / 30} × 100

Number of fluffs and number of crimped webs: A micrograph of 50 to 100 times is taken and measured at any 5 points on the surface of the woven fabric.

Dyeing rate at 100 ° C .: A polyester filament is knitted into a knitted fabric. This knitted fabric is dyed and found under the following conditions. Dye: Eastman Polyester Navy Blue 3R-LSW 2% owf Auxiliary agent: Nikkasan Salt (Nichika Kagaku) # 700 0.5 g / l ammonium sulfate 1 g / l acetic acid 1 g / l Bath ratio: 20: 1 Temperature, time: in bath The knitted fabric is put in, the temperature is raised from 40 ° C to 100 ° C over 30 minutes, and the temperature is maintained at 100 ° C for 30 minutes.

The absorbance "A ₀ " of the dyeing liquid before dyeing and the absorbance "A" of the residual liquid after dyeing (wavelength: maximum absorption wavelength near 578 nm) are measured and determined by the following formula. Dyeing rate (%) = {(“A ₀ ” − “A”) / “A ₀ ”} ×
100

[0044]

【Example】

Example 1 Bisphenol A ethylene oxide adduct (BPE)
Polyethylene terephthalate-based polymer having “η” of 0.65 copolymerized with 4 mol% was spun at a spinning temperature of 293 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1300 m / min, and was stretched 3.3 times without winding. 105 ℃) Roll up, 75dr
/ 16f filament yarn was obtained. The monofilament denier of this yarn is 4.7 denier and the maximum shrinkage stress is 330 mg /
dr, maximum shrinkage stress temperature 129 ° C, Wsr 22%,
Dsr was 35% and the dyeing rate at 100 ° C. was 90%. Next, this filament yarn and a 120 dr rayon filament (continuous spun yarn) having a single fiber denier of 3 denier and a Wsr of 5.2% were used at a yarn speed of 350 times / m and a yarn speed of 2
After ply-twisting (S twist) at 3 m / min, the yarn is twisted at 1600 times / m in the additional twisting direction at a temperature of 160 ° C., the yarn speed is 70 m / min, and the feed rate is 3.5% to form a false twist composite. I got a thread. The composite yarn has a fineness of 204.4 denier and a dry strength of 2.5 g / d.
r, dry elongation of 21.5%, wet strength of 2.2 g / dr,
Wet elongation 35.1%, Wsr 8.8%, temperature 180
Dsr at ℃ 17.4%, maximum shrinkage stress 350mg
/ Dr, the maximum shrinkage stress temperature was 140 ° C.

Next, this composite yarn is used as a warp for a distance of 1 inch.
Align 8 yarns, and also use this composite yarn as a weft yarn for 1 inch 8
The raw fabric woven with 0 stitches and woven by Butcher Amundsen was put into the dyeing process. First, scouring was performed at a temperature of 98 ° C, and then relaxation was performed at a temperature of 120 ° C.
%, And shrink 20% in the length direction. Then preset at a temperature of 180 ° C, then dye the polyester with a disperse dye at a temperature of 130 ° C and dye the rayon with a reactive dye at a temperature of 60 ° C. Next, it was dried and finished without tension. The woven fabric thus obtained is characterized in that the polyester filament serves as the core yarn, the rayon filament serves as the side yarn, and the yarn length difference is 21% to form a composite yarn, and the crimped wave (1 .5 pieces / m
m, an average of 20 fluffs) / average 520 fluffs /
cm ^2, and the specific volume was 4.8 cm ³ / g. By the way, the specific volume of the woven fabric made of 100% rayon filament was 1.59 cm ³ / g, and the woven fabric obtained in the present invention had three times the specific volume. These features are warm, bulky and lightweight. As for the physical properties of the woven fabric obtained by the present invention, the shrinkage ratio is (warp) 0.7%, (weft) 0.5%, the tear strength is (warp) 6130 g, (weft) 6170 g, and the wrinkle prevention ratio (warp) is 83%. , (Latitude) 83%, pilling is grade 5,
The woven fabric was stable from the viewpoint of physical properties.

Example 2 Spinning was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, and the single fiber denier was 5.0 denier, the maximum shrinkage stress was 350 mg / dr, the maximum shrinkage stress temperature was 129 ° C., Wsr was 23%, and Dsr was 35%. ,
Polyester shrink yarn 30 with 90% dyeing rate at 100 ° C
dr / 6f was obtained. A 100 dr rayon filament having a shrinkage yarn and a single fiber denier of 3 denier and a Wsr of 5.2% had an overfeed difference of 0.3% and a rayon filament overfeed rate of 0.1%, and a yarn speed of 400 m, It was interlaced at an air pressure of 1.85 kg / cm ² and wound with a pan. The composite yarn has a fineness of 130.0 denier, a dry strength of 2.3 g / dr, a dry elongation of 18.7%, and a Dsr at a temperature of 180 ° C. of 25.0.
%, Wsr is 17.2%, maximum shrinkage stress is 320 g / d
r, the maximum shrinkage stress temperature was 130 ° C.

This composite yarn was twisted 1000 times / m in the S direction, twisted and set at a vacuum degree of 720 mmHg in a saturated steam at a temperature of 75 ° C. for 40 minutes, and then 120 yarns per inch were aligned with the warp yarn. Similarly, this composite yarn is 40 in the S direction.
After twisting 0 times / m, 90 yarns per inch are struck in the weft yarn, the raw fabric woven with the tricotine texture is put into the dyeing process, first scouring at a temperature of 98 ° C and then relaxing at a temperature of 120 ° C to make the fabric widthwise. 24.3% and 21.1% were shrunk in the length direction from the raw machine. Next, sanding and bio-processing were performed, polyester was dyed with a disperse dye at a temperature of 130 ° C, and rayon was dyed with a reactive dye at a temperature of 60 ° C. Finally, an air tumbler was used to make the final touch.

The fabric thus obtained is characterized in that the polyester filament serves as the core yarn, the rayon filament serves as the side yarn, and the yarn length difference is 22% to form a composite yarn, and fluff is present on the fabric surface. There are an average of 370 pieces / cm ² ,
The specific volume was 3.5 cm ³ / g. By the way, the specific volume of 100% rayon filament fabric is 1.59c.
m ³ and the woven fabric obtained according to the invention had twice the specific volume. In addition, the texture of this woven fabric was bulky, light-weight, and had a new texture with a firmness and elasticity.

[0049]

As described above, the present invention is a material using a composite yarn of a polyester filament having excellent physical properties and a rayon filament having excellent color-forming and hygroscopic properties. Also has a character in which excellent properties are predominantly combined. That is, it has morphological stability (shrinkproof property, wrinkle resistant property), which is not possible with 100% rayon, antistatic property and hygroscopic property which are not found in polyester. In addition, since it has a high air content (specific volume), it has a totally new texture and texture, unlike the texture and texture of any conventional fiber (not naturally polyester and not rayon).

Further, the woven fabric of the present invention has a swelling of rayon.
The deswelling allows the air contained in and out of the fabric (high air content in the dry state-low air content in the wet state, the difference is about 15%, reversible), which is possible for the first time according to the invention. In this respect, the conventional rayon filament also swells in the presence or absence of water (a cross-sectional swelling rate when wet is about 50%,
Volume swelling rate (about 100%)-Due to swelling, the yarn itself became thicker or thinner, but it was not until air was taken in or out. Therefore, the material has a high air content and is warm in the winter with low humidity, and in the summer with high humidity, the heat of vaporization is taken away when releasing the absorbed water, so that the material becomes a cool material.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A crimp-free polyester filament of 25% by weight to 50% by weight is used as a core yarn, and 75% by weight to 50% by weight.
1% difference in the length of rayon filaments as the side yarn
A woven fabric composed of 5% to 25% rayon polyester composite yarn, having 100 fluffs / cm ² or more on the surface of the woven fabric, and having a specific volume of 3.2 cm ³ / g or more. 2. A fluff having a crimped wave of 1 to 3 pieces / mm, and a specific volume of 4.0 cm ^{3 /} g to 5.5.
The woven fabric according to claim 1, which is cm ³ / g. 3. Single fiber denier of 4 to 6 denier, maximum shrinkage stress of 250 mg / dr or more, maximum shrinkage stress temperature of 125 ° C. or more, Wsr of 20 to 25%, and Dsr of 30.
-40%, 100% dyeing rate is 80% or more 30
A composite yarn obtained by air-entrying a copolyester filament of dr to 75 dr and a rayon multifilament,
The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein after the fabric is woven as warp and / or weft, the fabric is contracted by 20% or more in the machine direction and the transverse direction in the dyeing process. 4. A single fiber denier of 4 to 6 denier, a maximum shrinkage stress of 250 mg / dr or more, a maximum shrinkage stress temperature of 125 ° C. or more, Wsr of 20 to 25% and Dsr of 30.
-40%, 100% dyeing rate is 80% or more 30
Wsr obtained by false twisting at a temperature of 200 ° C. or less in the additional twisting direction after twisting a copolyester filament of dr to 75 dr and a rayon multifilament at a twist number of 300 to 800 turns / m is 5 % To 15%, Dsr is 15
The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein -25% of the composite yarn is woven as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, and then contracted by 20% or more in the machine direction and the transverse direction of the fabric in the dyeing process. .