JPH11117144A - Pile/velour like woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a pile/velour like woven or knitted fabric without showing an out of shape such as an out at an elbow and having excellent elasticity and stiffness, and also the feeling of a thickness. SOLUTION: This pile/velour like woven or knitted fabric is obtained by using a mixed fiber yarn composed of a polyester multi-filament produced by stretching, heat relaxation treating and then self-elongating a partially oriented un-stretched polyester multi-filament with a high bulk yarn as a warp yarn and/or a weft yarn, and has a structure in which the pile yarns of the self-elongated polyester multi-filament float up at the surface of the woven or knitted fabric as a loop shape.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a pile velor knitted fabric, and more particularly, to a pile velvet having a feeling of thickness, excellent elasticity and waist, and particularly suitable for blouses, pants, jackets, jerseys and the like. It relates to a velor knitted fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to solve the drawbacks that the texture of a woven or knitted fabric using a synthetic fiber is hard and inferior in bulkiness,
A woven or knitted fabric using a fiber having self-extensibility has been developed. For example, JP-A-55-62240 discloses that
A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using self-extensible fibers, which is woven and knitted with yarns composed of self-extensible fibers and fibers having a specific shrinkage rate and then heat-treated at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher, has been proposed. Japanese Patent No. 35747 discloses that a polyester filament yarn capable of imparting self-extensibility is woven and knitted, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment to sufficiently shrink the filament yarn and impart spontaneous extensibility.
A method has been proposed in which the filament yarn is spontaneously elongated by heat treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the relaxation heat treatment temperature.

[0003] However, the woven or knitted fabric obtained by these methods uses self-extensible fibers, so that the degree of freedom of the fibers is increased, and the fibers are easily deformed due to deformation of the fibers themselves, and in particular, elbow dropouts and knee dropouts are likely to occur. There was a problem. Further, since synthetic fibers are used, it is impossible to obtain a fabric having a profound feeling and excellent elasticity and waist, and at present, its use is limited.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and has excellent elasticity, waist, and thickness of a pile velor cloth weaving without elbow dropout or the like. To provide a knitted fabric.

[0005]

The invention claimed in the present invention is as follows. A woven or knitted fabric using a blended yarn consisting of a spontaneously elongated polyester multifilament and a bulky yarn for a warp and / or a weft after stretching and relaxing heat treatment of a partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilament, and the spontaneously elongated polyester A pile-velor woven knitted fabric characterized in that a multifilament pile yarn mainly has a structure protruding in a loop form on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The pile / velor-toned knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by stretching a partially oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (POY), performing a relaxation heat treatment, and then spontaneously extending the polyester multifilament and a bulky yarn. It is a woven or knitted fabric using mixed yarn. The partially oriented unstretched polyester multifilament used in the present invention becomes a fiber to which spontaneous elongation has been imparted through a stretching treatment and a relaxation heat treatment step.

The spontaneously extensible fiber can be obtained by a known method described in, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-35747, for example, a partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilament spun at a spinning speed of 2000 to 3000 m / min. Can be obtained by a stretching heat treatment and then a relaxation heat treatment (relax heat treatment). As the stretching process, any of a cold stretching process of stretching at a temperature of 15 to 30 ° C (room temperature) and a hot stretching process of stretching with a hot pin of 30 to 120 ° C can be adopted, and the stretching rate is 120 to 160. % Is preferable. In addition, as the relaxation heat treatment, the stretched yarn may be 20 to
It is preferable to carry out a dry heat treatment at a temperature of 100 to 150 [deg.] C. in a relaxed state while feeding with 100% overfeed. The relaxation heat treatment may be performed in a fiber state or after weaving and knitting.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned spontaneously extensible fiber is further subjected to a heat treatment to spontaneously elongate, whereby the spun spun polyester multifilament pile yarn is raised in a loop on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. I do. The heat treatment for developing spontaneous elongation is generally performed with hot water or dry heat at 100 to 130 ° C.
It is preferable to carry out by heat treatment at the time of going through thermal processing such as a usual dyeing step. The expression of the spontaneous extensibility is preferably carried out after the fibers having the spontaneous extensibility are mixed with a differently shrinkable polyester mixed yarn described later and woven and knitted using the mixed yarn.

The bulky yarn used in the present invention is obtained by applying heat to a hetero-shrinkage polyester blended yarn, that is, a yarn obtained by blending filaments having different shrinkages, to cause a yarn length difference. It is also possible to use a yarn that can be used or a polyester fiber (conjugate yarn) in which polymers having different shrinkages are bonded. As the high shrinkage component yarn constituting the different shrinkage polyester mixed yarn, it is preferable to use a yarn having a hollow structure and a fineness of 3 to 8d having a fineness of 3 to 8d from the viewpoint that a woven knitted fabric can be obtained. The hollow ratio of this yarn is preferably 15 to 50%, more preferably 1 to 50%.
6 to 25%. Here, the hollow ratio is a percentage of the hollow void portion occupying the area of the single yarn cross section, and the number of hollow voids may be one or plural. The low-shrinkage component yarn constituting the hetero-shrinkage polyester blended yarn has a role of a reinforcing yarn, and prevents deformation of the woven or knitted fabric against external pressure, imparts elasticity to the woven or knitted fabric, and further imparts a waist to the woven or knitted fabric. Gives a certain feel. Preferred fineness is 1 to 3d. There is no particular limitation on the mixing ratio of the high shrinkage component yarn and the low shrinkage component yarn constituting the different shrinkage polyester mixed yarn, but from the viewpoint of obtaining excellent bulkiness, it is 20:80 to 80:20, preferably 3
The ratio is preferably set to 0:70 to 50:50.

[0010] The conjugate yarn is preferable because it exhibits crimpability by heat and exhibits bulkiness and also exhibits stretchability. The areas of the cross sections where different polymers are bonded may be equal or unequal, and the bonded portions may be half-moon, crescent, triangular or the like. Such a conjugate yarn is disclosed in JP-B-51-37.
It can be obtained by a known method described in, for example, U.S. Pat.

The pile velor knitted fabric of the present invention is woven and knitted using a spun yarn composed of a polyester multifilament having spontaneous elongation and a mixed shrinkage polyester mixed yarn as a warp and / or a weft. Is obtained. As described above, the heat treatment can be performed at the time of undergoing thermal processing such as a normal dyeing step. By this heat treatment, spontaneous elongation of polyester multifilament and hetero-shrinkage of hetero-shrinkage polyester mixed yarn are developed, and a three-layer structure in which low-shrinkage yarn and spontaneously elongated pile yarn are sequentially laminated with high-shrinkage yarn as the core yarn. The spontaneously stretched pile yarn, on which the yarn is formed and which forms the outermost layer, has a structure in which the yarn length difference between the middle layer and the inner layer is extremely large, so that the structure is formed in a loop-like structure on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

The method of blending the polyester multifilament and the different shrinkage polyester blended yarn is not particularly limited, and may be non-twisted, sweet-twisted or medium-twisted (eg, 1200 T / M).
Degree). The mixing ratio of the polyester multifilament having spontaneous elongation and the different shrinkage polyester mixed fiber is 5% to 50% for the inner layer and 5% to 50% for the middle layer
%, Outer layer 20% to 90%, preferably inner layer 10% to 30%
%, The middle layer 10% to 40%, and the outer layer 40% to 75%.
The mixed yarn is, for example, interlaced between a polyester multifilament having spontaneous elongation and a different shrinkage polyester mixed yarn, or a Taslan process (partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilament and a different shrinkage polyester mixed yarn). It can be obtained by entanglement with the structure in which the partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilaments have protruded in a loop shape on the surface) and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment, but the mixed fiber obtained by the latter method is woven. It is preferable because it is easy to knit and has excellent texture.

The structure of the woven fabric using the mixed fiber is not particularly limited, and may be any of a plain woven fabric, a twill woven fabric, a satin woven fabric, and a picke or other modified fabric. Weaving density is 150-250 warp / inch, weft 80-
Preferably, the number is 150 lines / inch. In particular, when the polyester multifilament having spontaneous elongation is used for the back structure of satin as the weft or the surface structure of satin as the warp, the pile yarn of the polyester multifilament spontaneously elongated by the heat treatment has emerged on the front side of the fabric. Is preferable. The knitted fabric using the mixed yarn may be either warp knitting or flat knitting.

When dyeing the pile velor knitted fabric of the present invention, before the dyeing step, 5 to 30% of alkali reduction processing is performed.
It is preferable to apply. By this processing, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is softened, and the deep color of black of the dyed woven or knitted fabric can be increased to an L value of 10 or less. In the pile velor knitted fabric of the present invention, in addition to the mixed yarn, ordinary fibers such as ordinary polyester fibers and cellulose fibers can be mixed. It is preferable that the content be within a range in which the object can be achieved, for example, 60% or less.

[0015]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following Examples, which should not be construed as limiting the invention thereto. Example 1 71d / 48f partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage of 46.2% and an elongation of 10% (PO
Y) is stretched 1.5 times under cold stretching conditions (25 ° C.),
A heat relaxation treatment (relaxation) of 2.1 times feeding into a hollow heater at ℃ was performed to obtain a polyester multifilament having a spontaneous elongation rate of 13%. The spontaneously extensible yarn and the mixed shrinkage mixed yarn 50d / 24f [mixed yarn of polyethylene terephthalate yarn and polyester high shrinkage yarn (JUNSOYER, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)] were mixed at an interlace ratio of 36:64. A dobby woven fabric using the obtained mixed yarn as warp and weft is woven by a water jet loom, subjected to a 10% alkali weight reduction process before the dyeing process, and subjected to a dyeing heat process at a temperature of 130 ° C. A pile velor-like fabric is obtained. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop shape on its surface, had a sense of thickness, and had elasticity and waist.

Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the blended yarn was used as the warp and 90d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate thick and thin yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., Refilna) was used as the weft. Thus, a pile-velor-like woven fabric of the present invention was obtained. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop shape on its surface, had a sense of thickness, and had elasticity and waist. Example 3 In Example 1, the different shrinkage mixed fiber 50d / 30f [high shrinkage component yarn: round hollow fiber 25d / 6f having a hollow ratio of 15%, low shrinkage component yarn: polyethylene terephthalate 25d / 24]
f (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., JAS)], to obtain a pile-velor woven fabric of the present invention in the same manner as in Example 1.
The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop shape on its surface, had a sense of thickness, and had elasticity and waist.

Example 4 A pile-velor-like woven fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a conjugate yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation, EMH50d / 12f) was used. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop form on its surface, had a sense of thickness, had elasticity and waist, and had stretchability. Example 5 In Example 1, the heat relaxation treatment was performed by performing hot stretching at a hot pin temperature of 60 ° C. (surface temperature) by 1.45 times, and then feeding 1.8 times into a hollow heater (120 ° C.). A pile velor-like fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a polyester multifilament having a spontaneous elongation of 13% was used. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop shape on its surface, had a sense of thickness, and had elasticity and waist.

Example 6 In Example 5, the different shrinkage mixed fiber 50 used in Example 3 was used.
A pile velor-like woven fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that d / 30f was used. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop shape on its surface, had a sense of thickness, and had elasticity and waist. Example 7 In Example 5, except that the conjugate yarn used in Example 4 was used, the pile of the present invention was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5.
A velor-like fabric was obtained. The obtained woven fabric had pile yarns protruding in a loop form on its surface, had a sense of thickness, had elasticity and waist, and had stretchability. Comparative Example 1 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that a high shrinkage yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., MEY, 30d / 12f) was used instead of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. The pile length of the obtained woven fabric was not enough, lacked warmth, and lacked waist and elasticity.

The pile / bearro-toned knitted fabric of the present invention has a sense of thickness, and has excellent elasticity and waist, so that it does not lose its shape such as elbow dropout, and can be used for blouses, pants, jackets and jerseys. Etc. can be particularly suitably used.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric comprising a blended yarn comprising a polyester multifilament spontaneously elongated after stretching and relaxing heat treatment of a partially oriented undrawn polyester multifilament for a warp and / or a weft. ,
A pile / velor-like woven knitted fabric characterized in that a spontaneously elongated polyester multifilament pile yarn has a structure mainly emerged in a loop shape on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric.