JPH02242936A - Special combined filament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject polyester-based yarn, excellent in feeling of bulge, tenseness and stiffness and having natural uneven feeling unique to natural fiber by interlacing highly shrinkable yarn of thick and thin filaments with low shrinkable yarn at a specific interlacing degree. CONSTITUTION:The objective yarn which is polyester-based combined filament yarn of different shrinkages, consisting of (A) highly shrinkable yarn of thick and thin filaments with (B) low shrinkable yarn having a wet heat shrinkage factor at 130 deg.C of at least 3% lower than that of the yarn (A) and having 5 to 60 interlacements/m single filament interlacing degree. The above-mentioned yarn is preferably obtained by post-combining filaments of the yarns (A) and (B) in an interlacing device. Furthermore, the yarn (A) preferably has 30 to 75 denier as the yarn and 2 to 4 denier as the single filament at 20 to 50 wt.% ratio of the thick part. The yarn (B) preferably has a smaller single filament denier and a larger number of filaments than those of the yarn (A).

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a special blended yarn that, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, provides an excellent sense of fullness and elasticity, and a silky, natural uneven feel unique to natural fibers. be.

[Conventional technology]

In order to overcome the drawbacks of conventional synthetic fibers, such as the sense of fullness and stiffness, and to obtain a natural surface feel, various types of yarns with irregular cross sections, their blends, and yarns with different contractions have been proposed. It has received some praise.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

However, when these irregular cross-section yarns or their blended yarns are used to make woven or knitted fabrics, the heat shrinkage characteristics are uniform in the length direction, so there is a drawback that they lack the tendency to bulge. In addition, regarding the above-mentioned attempt at different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn,
For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 5522586, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-3
Many proposals have been made, such as Japanese Patent Publication No. 0620 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 13009/1983.

Woven or knitted fabrics using these differentially shrinkable blended yarns have excellent fluffiness, drapability, and elegant luster due to the difference in yarn length, giving them a texture similar to that of natural fibers.

However, even with these methods, the silky natural unevenness (tactile sensation, facial expression) unique to natural fibers cannot be achieved.

A possible reason for this is that, from a macroscopic perspective, conventional various shrinkage mixed fiber yarns are, after all, multifilaments that are uniform in the yarn length direction, and do not have random transformations like natural fibers. It seems that there is. On the other hand, JP-A No. 62-110934 discloses that a part of the differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is thick and thin yarn having thick and thin threads in the yarn length direction. Although it can be expected that the unevenness of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric will be improved to some extent by varying the fineness of the cross-section of the parts, it has an excellent sense of fullness and tension, and does not impart the silky natural unevenness unique to natural fibers.

In view of these circumstances, the present invention aims to provide a yarn suitable for use in #a knitting fabrics, which has excellent elasticity as well as fluffiness, and also has the natural unevenness unique to natural fibers. That is.

[Means to solve the problem]

In order to achieve the above object, the present inventor conducted various studies and found that a mixed shrinkage yarn using thick and thin filaments as a high-shrinkage yarn and interlaced with a low-shrinkage yarn creates a bulging feeling. In addition, it was discovered that this yarn can be used as a yarn for woven or knitted fabrics, which has excellent elasticity and a natural unevenness unique to natural fibers, leading to the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides a polyester-based differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn, which is a high shrinkage yarn of thick and thin filaments, and a low shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate lower by at least 3% at a wet heat shrinkage rate of 130° C. than the high shrinkage yarn. It is a special mixed fiber yarn characterized in that the degree of single yarn entanglement of the differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is 5 to 60 pieces/m.

The polyester used in the present invention has polyethylene terephthalate as its main repeating unit, but other polyesters such as 4-cyclohexane dimetatool, polyethylene glycol, 2.2'゛-
It may contain bis(4-β-hydroxyphenyl)propane, etc., or a part of the dicarboxylic acid component may be a copolymer of isophthalic acid, 5-sodiramsulfoisophthalic acid, etc. It is extremely important that the mixed yarn always contains thick and thin filaments in a part thereof, and that the thick and thin filaments are highly shrinkable yarns. A thick and thin filament has a drawn ring in the longitudinal direction, and consists of a thick part with a relatively low degree of drawing or almost like an undrawn yarn, and a thin part that has been drawn. As a matter of course, there is a difference in thermal shrinkage behavior in the thin part, and the shrinkage rate in the thick part is higher than that in the thin part. Therefore, in order for the Thick and Thin filament to act as a high shrinkage yarn, a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage with other low shrinkage yarns will have a large difference in yarn length due to the difference in shrinkage in the yarn length direction due to the heat load in the finishing process. This means that some small portions or no portions will occur, and this point is truly true.
This is an essential element for creating the natural uneven feel unique to natural fibers in the present invention. What is even more surprising is that when such a mixed fiber yarn is used, the thick part becomes a suitable core and has excellent tension and elasticity. The difference in thermal contraction rate between the thick part and the thin part of the thick and thin filament can be determined by appropriately adjusting the preheating temperature, stretching ratio, set temperature, resistor, etc. during the thick and thin filament manufacturing process.
Although it can be controlled arbitrarily, it is preferable to have a shrinkage rate difference of 20 to 50% in spring water. Also, the denier of thick and thin filament yarn is 30 to 7.
5 denier, and the single yarn denier is preferably 2 to 4 denier. In order to further emphasize the natural unevenness, it is preferable that the ratio of the thick portion be between 20 and 50% by weight. If it is less than 20%, the appearance of unevenness will be small, and if it is more than 50%, the marbled tone due to the dyeing difference peculiar to thick and thin yarn will be emphasized, which is not preferable.

The difference in shrinkage rate between the thick part and the thin part can be found by measuring the cross-sectional area from the cross-sectional photographs before and after the water conduction treatment. The easiest way to do this is to knit a single piece of yarn, dye it, then measure the length and cross-sectional area of the thick and thin parts, and then calculate the volume ratio.

The shrinkage rate of low-shrinkage yarn is 130°C (after heating to 130°C)
(0 minute treatment) should be at least 3% lower than thick and thin filament yarns.

Humid heat shrinkage at 130°C is the treatment that most reflects the actual finishing processing conditions, and if the difference in shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage rate yarn and the low shrinkage rate yarn is 3% or less, the yarn length in the longitudinal direction is reduced as in the present invention. No difference change occurs. Preferably, this shrinkage rate difference is 30
% or less is better. If it exceeds 30%, not only will it be difficult to control the texture of the fabric, but it will also lack elasticity. It is preferable that the low shrinkage yarn has a smaller single yarn denier and a larger number of filaments than a high shrinkage yarn made of thick and thin filaments.

Furthermore, as an important requirement of the present invention, an interlacing treatment must be performed.
The high shrinkage yarn made of the thick and thin filament and the low shrinkage yarn with a lower shrinkage rate are fixed at the intertwined part, and the longitudinal direction of the thick and thin filament due to the difference in shrinkage between the thick part and the thin part. The difference in yarn length is more pronounced. The degree of entanglement is 5 to 60 pieces/m, particularly preferably 20 to 50 pieces/m. When the degree of entanglement is less than 5 pieces/m, the above-mentioned fixed effect is small and the sense of unevenness becomes poor, and 60 pieces/m
In severe cases, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes noticeably irritated.
This results in an unpleasant surface condition. Here, the degree of confounding is
It can be measured by the method described in No. 13009.

Next, a method for manufacturing the special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention will be explained.

The most common method for special blended yarns is to prepare thick and thin filaments and yarns with lower shrinkage separately and then mix them using a known interlacing device, but the combination of yarn types is limited. If so, it can also be obtained by a simultaneous stretching method or a direct spinning method. Various manufacturing methods are known to obtain thick and thin filaments, and for example, thick and thin filaments can be obtained by the methods described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207, Japanese Patent Publication No. 52-6367, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 63-18241. I can do it.

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.
The cross-sectional shape and physical properties of the high-shrinkage yarn and low-shrinkage yarn are not limited to these.

〔Example〕

Contains 0.05wt% titanium oxide and has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0
．． 67 polyethylene phthalate through a Y-shaped nozzle (1
2 holes) and wound at 1500 m/min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 90 denier/12 filaments.Next, this was heated at a preheating temperature of 60°C, a hot plate temperature of 120°C, a drawing ratio of 2.25, and a speed of It was drawn at 1000 m/min to obtain a 40 denier, 12 filament yarn. When this yarn was knitted into a piece of fabric and dyed, it clearly had a dye difference unique to thick and thin. The thick portion weight ratio at this time was 29%. Furthermore, the difference in shrinkage rate between the thick part and the thin part of this yarn after treatment with fresh water was 35% when measured at n=12. On the other hand, the wet heat shrinkage rate of this yarn at 130℃ is 18
Next, a normal drawn polyester multifilament 50 denier/48 filament was prepared and 13
When the wet heat shrinkage rate at 0°C was measured, it was 11.3%.
The difference in shrinkage rate from the previous thick and thin yarn was 6.7%. After the two yarns were interlaced, interlacing was applied and the yarn was rolled up.

The number of entanglements obtained by the underwater immersion method was 25 pieces/m.

Raw silk is used for the warp, and this mixed yarn is twisted at 800 T/m for the weft, with a warp density of 70.
After weaving with a weft density of 38 threads/m, scouring, relaxing,
After drying, a 15% alkali weight loss was applied, dyed using a jet dyeing machine, and a finishing set was applied. The resulting fabric has the same swelling properties as a fabric made using a conventional different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn obtained through a similar process, but it has excellent elasticity and, above all, it has improved expression such as the texture of the surface to the touch. was filled with extremely natural confusion. The results are shown in Table 1. In addition, a schematic diagram of the special mixed fiber yarn used here after being subjected to a heat load is shown in FIG.

[Comparative example]

Using the same polyethylene terephthalate as in the example, it was spun through a Y-shaped nozzle (12 holes) to obtain an undrawn yarn of 120 d/12 f.
Stretched at a hot plate temperature of 120°C and a stretching ratio of 3.0.
A yarn of 0d/12f (referred to as A) was obtained.

Next, using the same undrawn yarn, it was drawn under the same conditions as (A), except for the hot plate, and stretched at 40 d/12
A yarn of f (referred to as B) was obtained.

In both (A) and (B), there was no color difference peculiar to thick and thin even when the fabrics were dyed after being made into -opening knitted fabrics.

Also, the shrinkage rate due to wet heat treatment at 130°C is (^) 12.
5%, and (B) was 14.0%. (A), (B)
Each was subjected to an intertwining treatment with the same ordinary polyester multifilament 50d/48f as in the example at a rate of 25 pieces/m, and then woven and finished according to the exact same specifications, design, and conditions as in the example to form a fabric. .

The texture of the fabrics described in Examples and Comparative Examples (A) and (8) above was evaluated by 15 people with 5 years or more of sales experience. The results are shown in Table 1.

In the finishing process stage in the first facing direction, there will be areas where the difference in yarn length is large and areas where the difference is small. For this reason, the fabric has an extremely natural unevenness, and the thick part acts as a suitable core in the woven or knitted fabric, giving it an excellent sense of tension.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 schematically shows the special mixed fiber yarn according to the present invention subjected to 130''C wet heat treatment, and then the thick and thin parts are arbitrarily picked up from the special mixed yarn. ' indicates thick part, a' indicates thin part, b indicates low shrinkage yarn. ◎... Particularly excellent, O... Excellent, △...
・Normal, ×... Inferior [Effect of the invention] The special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention has thick and thin filaments, which are high shrinkage yarns, which have a difference in heat shrinkage rate in the longitudinal direction and are intertwined with low shrinkage yarns. Patent applicant Asahi Kasei Corporation Asahi Kasei Corporation

Claims (1)

[Claims] It is a polyester-based differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn, and is made of thick and thin filament high shrinkage yarn and the high shrinkage yarn at 130°C.
Consists of low-shrinkage yarns that have a shrinkage rate that is at least 3% lower in wet heat shrinkage, and the degree of single yarn entanglement of the mixed shrinkage yarns is 5 to 5.
A special blended yarn characterized by 60 pieces/m.