JP2652877B2 - Method for producing spun-like fabric - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for producing a spun-like woven fabric suitable for clothing. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a spun-rank woven fabric using multifilament multifilament yarns having different fineness, cross-sectional shape, and heat shrinkage ratio.

(Prior Art) A filament woven or knitted fabric made of a fiber-forming synthetic polymer generally has uniform physical properties, has a monotonous feeling, dyeability, and the like, and tends to have little change.

For this reason, in Japanese Patent Application No. 62-79396, the applicant knitted and knitted using a different shrinkage mixed fiber consisting of a composite filament in which two kinds of polymers were non-uniformly laminated and another filament, and then performed a dissolution and weight reduction process. A method for producing a knitted silk fabric was proposed. Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 63-12172 discloses an aggregate of fibers in which two types of different polymer capable of forming a fiber are bonded while changing irregularly along the length of the fiber.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) A composite yarn in which a plurality of polymers are non-uniformly joined as in the above-mentioned prior art can give a changeable appearance to a fabric. You can't get a certain feel.

Furthermore, even if the weight reduction processing is omitted from the method of blending the different shrinkage component yarns described in Japanese Patent Application No. 62-79396, the expression of the different shrinkage effect by the heat treatment does not give a sufficient volume feeling even after weaving. could not.

The present invention is to solve such a problem, and provides a high-quality spun-like fabric by giving a varied appearance and a sufficient volume feeling.

(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention provides a method of melting two types of fiber-forming polymers having mutual affinity separately and then spinning these polymers through a static kneading element. The obtained composite multifilament yarn of 50% by weight or more and the multifilament yarn having a heat shrinkage difference of 5% or more from the multilayer composite multifilament yarn were mixed to form a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. Thereafter, a crimp is developed by performing a heat treatment, and knitting is performed using the crimped yarn, thereby producing a spun-like fabric.

Here, the fiber-forming synthetic polymer mainly refers to polyester and polyamide, and may be a copolymer as long as spinnability is not impaired in order to satisfy the above requirements.

Polyester is a homopolyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene oxybenzoate, polydimethylcyclohexane terephthalate, or polypiparolactone, or copolymerized with isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid as a second acid component in these polyester components. And those obtained by copolymerizing propylene glycol or polymethylene glycol as the secondary alcohol component. Polyamide refers to nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, bis (paraaminocyclohexyl)
It includes condensates of methane and dodecane diacid, copolymers of these polyamide-forming components, and copolymers of other dicarboxylic acids and diamines.

In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use a combination of those having a difference in heat shrinkage behavior. For example, polyethylene terephthalate and a so-called cationic dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing sulfoisophthalic acid in a polyethylene terephthalate component with about 2.5 mol% are used. And the like.

Thus, the laminated filament system used in the present invention is constituted by the two kinds of fiber-forming synthetic polymers selected as described above, and the spinning is usually performed by a composite spinning method.

The details of the multi-spinning method are as already described by the applicant in Japanese Patent Application No. 62-79396, in which the two fiber-forming synthetic polymers are each melted separately, and then these polymers are placed in a stationary system. Spin through a kneading element. The cross section of the spun composite multifilament yarn leads to a laminated filament morphology in which almost all of the constituent filaments are randomly split in the range of 2 to 5 layers.

The shape of the cross-section may be any shape such as a round cross-section, 3 to 10 leaf multi-lobe, flat, hollow, irregular hollow, U-shape, or a mixture of these, depending on the purpose such as yarn appearance, gloss, and feeling. Can be selected. Among them, those having a cross-sectional shape in which the outer periphery of the filament is formed by 2 to 4 sides such as 3 or 4 leaves, flat shape, U shape, etc. are suitable for the natural irregular feeling, gloss and appearance of natural fibers. It is.

Next, the laminated composite multifilament yarn is mixed with a multifilament yarn having a heat shrinkage difference of 5%, preferably 20% or more. At this time, there is a method in which both yarns use a laminated composite multifilament yarn to impart a difference in heat shrinkage due to a difference in heat history or the like, or use a so-called high shrinkage yarn and a laminated composite multifilament yarn. The laminated composite multifilament yarn needs to be 50% or more (volume ratio) of the whole mixed yarn. Further, when the mixing ratio of the laminated composite multifilament yarn and the single polymer yarn is about 2: 1 to 3: 1, a chambray-like surface effect occurs. If the difference in the heat shrinkage is less than 5%, the voluminous feeling of the fabric cannot be sufficiently obtained. The normal heat shrinkage is preferably about 5 to 9% for low heat shrinkage and about 14 to 45%, preferably about 25 to 45% for high heat shrinkage. Furthermore, the fiber mixing method is preferably a fluid entanglement treatment with air or the like, and the number of entanglement points is 10 pieces / m or more, further 10 to 50 pieces / m.
It should be about the degree.

The different shrinkage mixed fiber obtained as described above is subjected to a heat treatment as it is in the form of a thread to sufficiently develop latent crimp. Heat treatment conditions depend on the type of polymer used, polyethylene terephthalate and sulfoisophthalic acid copolymer, when using a combination of polyethylene terephthalate, 100 ℃ or more, especially 180
Dry heat treatment in which the yarn is passed at a yarn speed of 30 to 50 m / min over a heater at about ° C is preferable. If the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber sufficiently expresses the latent crimp, weaving is performed using this. Various conditions at the time of weaving are not much different from normal conditions,
A known structure such as plain weave or feather double may be used.

Example 1 Example 1 Intrinsic viscosity (η) (phenol tetrachloroethane 6:
Bonding ratio between polyethylene terephthalate (bright) whose 0.64 is measured at 20 ° C in the mixed solvent of 4) and cationic dye dyeable polyester (semi-dal) which is 0.60
1: 1, extruded from a spinneret having a Y-shaped spinning hole through a static kneading yarn at a spinning temperature of 296 ° C., and a winding speed of 920 m / min.
A 30 denier / 36 filament laminated composite undrawn yarn was obtained. On the other hand, as a comparative example, the polyethylene terephthalate was spun by a usual spinning method to obtain a 100d / 48f undrawn yarn. Subsequently, the laminated composite undrawn yarn and the ordinary polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn are drawn under the following drawing conditions: drawing speed 800 m / min. Roller / plate temperature 76 ° C / 138 ° C. Spindle rotation speed 9750-8000 rpm. The shrinkage is set to about 7%, and the remaining one is stretched without heating the plate heater, the heat shrinkage is set to 40%, and two yarns are mixed on a drawing machine to interlace. Was carried out. The yarn quality of the different shrinkage mixed fiber (A) obtained from only the laminated composite undrawn yarn was as follows.

Fineness 97.0 (denier) Strength 2.85 (g / d) Elongation 34.0 (%) Heat yield 32.3 (%) En 30 (co / M) Both bobbin ratio and cup ratio were 100%.

Next, the two different shrinkage blended yarns were heated at a heater temperature of 180 ° C and a yarn speed of 50 m.
And a dry heat treatment was performed to obtain an actual crimped yarn. Such an apparent crimped yarn (B) obtained from the laminated composite undrawn yarn was formed of fine crimps. On the other hand, the one obtained from the undrawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate (C) had a large crimped form. Further, when weaving was performed using both yarns as warp and weft, the yarn obtained from the laminated composite undrawn yarn could be woven without any problem, but the yarn obtained from the polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn was crimped. Weaving was difficult due to the large size and lots of fluff.

Table 1 shows the texture obtained when weaving a double layer with a warp density of 94 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 79 yarns / inch using the yarns (A), (B) and (C) as the warp yarns, respectively. Shown in

Example 2 The different shrinkage blended yarns obtained from the laminated composite undrawn yarns used in Example 1 were subjected to heater temperatures shown in Tables 2 and 3,
Dry heat treatment was performed at the yarn speed.

As shown in the table, the appearance of crimp was greatest at a yarn speed of 50 to 100 m / min and a heater temperature of around 200 ° C.

Example 3 By the method of Example 1, a different shrinkage mixed fiber consisting of a 150d / 36f laminated composite filament was obtained. The yarn quality is 147d fineness, 2.85g / d strength, 34.0% elongation, 33.0% thermal aberration (40%, 7%) En30
At 性 / m, the operability of spinning and drawing was good. Next, the heat-shrinkable mixed fiber was subjected to dry heat treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain an actual crimped yarn. Round knitted fabric 22G × 30inch adventure knit (double knit) using 100d / 32f semi-dal polyester processed yarn on the back and the processed yarn on the back, and the basis weight is 580g / m
I got the dough. Post-processing conditions were as follows: after relaxing and soaping, an intermediate set was applied at 180 ° C., and after dispersing and dyeing with a cationic dye, drying was performed and final setting was performed at 190 ° C. The obtained knitted fabric did not have the drawbacks of sharks seen in conventional false twisted yarns, and had a cotton-like soft and soft texture.

Example 4 A 100d / 24f laminated composite filament (heat shrinkage of 40%) was obtained by the method of Example 1, and this was mixed with a 50d / 12f polyester yarn (heat shrinkage of 7%). Knitting and dyeing using such a different shrinkage mixed yarn in the same manner as in Example 3 showed that the cation portion was densely dyed and the regular polyester portion was lightly dyed. A knitted fabric having a distinctive appearance having a tone appearance and a feeling of span touch was obtained.

(Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a spun-like fabric with a swelling feeling and a swelling feeling, a natural fiber-like calm luster, and a luxurious feeling.

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Office reference number FI Technical display location D03D 15/04 102 D03D 15/04 102A (56) References JP-A-63-243373 (JP, A) JP-A-63-243373 JP-A-63-135539 (JP, A) JP-A-50-5650 (JP, A) JP-B-46-14589 (JP, B1) JP-B-63-12172 (JP, B2)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A lamination of 50% or more (volume ratio) obtained by separately melting two types of fiber-forming polymers having mutual affinity and then spinning these polymers through a static kneading element. After forming a different shrinkage blended yarn by blending a multi-filament yarn with a heat-shrinkage ratio of 5% or more to form a differently shrinkable blended yarn, the crimped yarn is subjected to heat treatment. A method for producing a spun-like fabric, comprising knitting and weaving.