JPH0637745B2 - Method for producing silk-tone cloth - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for producing a silk-spun fabric suitable for clothing. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a cloth using mixed fiber multifilament yarns having different weaving degree, cross-sectional shape, dyeability, and heat shrinkage rate.

(Prior Art) A filament woven or knitted fabric made of a fiber-forming synthetic polymer is
In general, it has uniform physical properties, and it is monotonous in texture, dyeability, etc.
It becomes a poor change and wins. In the past, great efforts have been made to overcome such drawbacks, and the progress has been remarkable. For example, thick and thin yarns and slab yarns (Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-56818, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-14254) that consciously change the fiber diameter, turbulent air and fluid treatment, and end fluff by rubbing with a friction body are added. (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-32414) and loop yarn by high-pressure fluid treatment (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19782).
No.), weaving degree, cross-sectional shape, or the like, or two or more filaments having different physical properties such as difference in heat shrinkage ratio, difference in crimping property, difference in dyeing property (JP-A-53) -134946, Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-1464),
In addition to making the fiber cross-section non-circular and irregular, the fiber surface is prominently provided with streak and unevenness to give a texture effect (Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-39772), a composite of nylon and polyester. For example, there is one that is dissolved by using a solvent after spinning (Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-30806).

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, even with these conventional techniques, silk,
It is extremely difficult to express the properties that human beings are familiar with, such as the unique texture and color effect of natural fibers such as cotton and wool, with filaments such as nylon and polyester. There wasn't. For example, in the case of a dissolution type, dyeing is difficult because two different polymers are used. In addition, the contracted state and the filament arrangement are too uniform, and a squeaky feeling peculiar to silk has not been obtained yet.

It is considered that such a problem is due to the fact that the irregularities such as the morphology of the fiber and the dyeability could not be sufficiently expressed in addition to the difference in the specific gravity and the thermal conductivity of the fiber itself.

The present invention provides a laminated filament yarn prepared by spinning two kinds of synthetic polymers having different solvent solubilities, which are irregular in fineness, cross-sectional shape, dyeability, etc. By knitting a fabric using the different shrinkage mixed yarn made of such multifilament,
It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric having a feeling of volume that is excellent and a span-like feeling that cannot be obtained by conventional multifilament yarns, at a low cost commercially.

(Means for Solving the Problems) In the present invention, two kinds of fiber-forming polymers having mutual affinity and different dissolution rates in a solvent are separately melted, and then these polymers are allowed to stand still. A laminated multifilament yarn obtained by spinning through a kneading element in a composite state is used as one component, and a highly shrinkable filament yarn having a difference in heat shrinkage with the laminated multifilament yarn of 5% or more is used as another component. It is characterized in that after the components are mixed to obtain a different-shrink mixed yarn, a cloth is knitted using the different-shrink mixed yarn, and then the cloth is reduced by a dissolution treatment with a solvent.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The laminated filament yarn of the present invention is required to be composed of two kinds of fiber-forming synthetic polymers having mutual affinity and different dissolution rates in a solvent or a decomposing agent.

Here, the fiber-forming synthetic polymer mainly refers to polyester and polyamide, and may be a copolymer within the range where spinnability is not impaired in order to satisfy the above requirements.

Among them, the polyester is a homopolyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethyleneoxybenzoate, polydimethylcyclohexane terephthalate, and polypiparolactone,
It is referred to as those obtained by copolymerizing these polyester components with isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid as the second acid component or propylene glycol or polymethylene glycol as the second alcohol component. Polyamide means nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 610,
Condensates of nylon 11, nylon 12, bis (paraaminocyclohexyl) methane and dodecane diacid, those copolymerized between these polyamide-forming components, and those copolymerized with other dicarboxylic acids or diamines, etc. Say.

Further, in order to achieve the object in the present invention, it is required that there is a difference in solubility in the solvent between the two kinds of polymers in the above-mentioned combination. The number of terminal groups for changing the degree of polymerization of the polymer, changing the presence or absence or the ratio of copolymerization, and making the dyeable or difficult to dye in a combination of two types of polymers having a relatively close melting temperature There is a method of appropriately selecting a method of denaturing the above or introducing a terminal group capable of being dyed with a dye of a different dyeing group.

In the present invention, different dissolution rates in a solvent means that there is a difference in solubility between organic and inorganic solvents, or in the case of polyester, there is a difference in resistance to agents such as caustic soda that acts as a hydrolyzing agent. say.
Normally, the dissolving action with respect to the solvent proceeds at a substantially constant rate until the solvent reaches a saturated state, but in the case of the present invention, the dissolution rate and the decomposition rate ratio are 2 to 5 in such a constant rate dissolution proceeding state. It is preferred to use a combination of types of polymers.

For example, examples of the combination of polymers satisfying the above conditions include a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and a so-called cationic dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate component with about 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid.

Further, in order to obtain a natural discoloration effect similar to natural fiber, a combination of two kinds of polymers having dyeing differences such as dye exhaustion rate difference, dyeing seating difference, and applied dye group difference may be incorporated.

Thus, the laminated filament yarn of the present invention is composed of the two kinds of fiber-forming synthetic polymers selected as described above, and the composite spinning method is usually applied to the spinning.

As the most preferable method, the outline of the spinning apparatus is shown in FIG.

Hereinafter, one example of the spinning method will be described with reference to FIG. Laminated filament yarn is obtained by spinning the polymer through a static kneading element as shown in the figure, and the static kneading element is a static kneading element having 1 to 4 elements. The other is to pass through the kneading element and then spin using a spinneret having 3 or more, preferably 6 or more spinning holes.

The illustrated spinning device meets these requirements. That is, in FIG. 1, both the A and B polymers melted by separate extruders and introduced into the reservoirs (11) and (12) of the die pack (1) are the wire mesh filters (13) of the respective filter parts. ) ′ Through the guide hole (14) ′ of the lattice (2) and its outlet (1
5) ′ through the guide hole (16) provided in the distribution plate (3) to reach the central portion (17) of the mixing plate (4), and the static kneading element (18) provided toward the lower surface from that. ) (19) is passed through the kneading element
(2) consisting of two types of polymers with different properties due to (18) and (19)
A composite state of 5 layers, preferably 2-4 layers is formed. Then, this layer-formed mixed polymer is the exit portion (2
When it reaches 0), it gradually spreads in concentric circles, flows out from the spinning holes (21) of the spinneret (6) consisting of 6 or more, and is discharged and molded as a composite multifilament.

Thus, the discharge-molded composite multifilament is wound and then wound up and drawn at an appropriate draw ratio. The cross-sectional structure showing the joined state of the A and B polymers is 6 as shown in FIG. It all depends on the position of (or more) spinning holes (21).

The static kneading element used for the spinning is, for example, "Static Mixer" by Kenix, "Mixing Unit" by Toray Engineering, or ROSS IS.
A G mixer, a mixing element manufactured by Sulzer Co., Ltd., and the multi-layering device disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-23968 can be applied depending on the case. However, it is appropriate that the number of elements be in the range of 1 to 4. Young
If there is no kneading element at all, both A and B polymers merely form a united layer, and filaments due to the homopolymer of A or B frequently occur, which is not preferable. On the other hand, on the contrary, when the number is 5 or more, the number of divided layers becomes too large, and a uniform multi-layered blended state is obtained, and the proper laminated structure is lost. Therefore, the number of kneading element elements is suitably 1 to 4, more preferably 2 or 3. However, one kneading element element referred to here means an element that is divided into two layers per stage. For example, since the ROSS ISG mixing element has four division layers per stage, this mixer has two layers per stage. Considered as an individual.

Further, as mentioned above, the spinneret used in the present invention preferably has at least 6 spinning holes as a preferable number. This cannot be said to be unusable if the number of spinning holes is 5 or less in some cases, but 3 or more in some cases, but generally the pore spacing is too large and turbulence easily occurs in the mixed flow of the multilayered polymer, Among them, many cases are unsuitable, for example, a vortex layer entrained in the filament is likely to be generated, resulting in a decrease in the appearance of an iridescent appearance due to a difference in dyeing.

Thus, the cross-section of the spun composite multifilament yarn satisfying the above-mentioned conditions has a laminated multifilament form in which almost all the constituent filaments are divided in the range of 2 to 5 layers.

In addition, the shape of the spinning hole is arbitrary, such as a round cross section, 3 to 10 leaf multilobal, flat, hollow, irregular hollow, U-shaped or a mixture of these, depending on the purpose such as the appearance, gloss, and feel of the thread. The shape of can be selected. Among them, those having a cross-sectional shape such as a 3 or 4 lobe shape, a flat shape, a U shape, etc. that form the outer circumference of the filament with 2 to 4 sides are suitable for the natural irregular texture, luster and appearance of natural fibers. Is.

When the composite multifilament yarn in the present invention is spun, the bonding ratio of the two selected synthetic polymers can be arbitrarily selected within the weight ratio of 1: 9 to 9: 1. In selecting the two joining ratios,
It is determined by comprehensively judging the stability of the spinning, the degree of the different dyeing effect of the yarn, etc. When considering the expression of the feeling effect and the different dyeing effect in the present invention, the ratio is expressed by weight ratio. The range of easily soluble polymer: poorly soluble polymer is preferably 1: 6 to 6: 1, more preferably 1: 6 to 2: 1, and most preferably 1: 5.
It is good to select in the range of 1: 1.

The laminated multifilament yarn thus obtained is mixed with another filament yarn having a difference in heat shrinkage rate of 5% or more, preferably 7% or more, to form a different shrinkage mixed yarn. Examples of such filament yarns include high shrinkage filament yarns having a heat shrinkage rate of about 20 to 50% without being subjected to heat setting treatment after spinning, and the laminated filament yarns may be used as both filament yarns. However, it is preferable to use the above-mentioned laminated multifilament yarn only for one component in order to prevent the fabric from being excessively reduced by the subsequent dissolution treatment and reducing the strength of the fabric. However, if the weight reduction rate is not large, it is possible to use both components. or,
The laminated multifilament yarn preferably accounts for at least 50% by weight or more of the entire mixed yarn.

Further, as the mixed fiber treatment method, a method of directly ejecting from a spinneret with different spinners and a method of winding the unheated yarn on the second godet roller with or without heat treatment by interlacing and unwinding the undrawn yarn When drawing between the draw rolls on the twisting machine stand, one method may be heat-treated, and the other may not be heat-treated, and subsequently a entangled twisted and twisted yarn is entangled. Furthermore, it is preferable to perform a fluid entanglement treatment with air or the like.

Then, a cloth is knitted using the different shrinkage mixed yarn. Although the structure of the fabric is not particularly limited, it is preferable to use the differently shrinkage mixed yarns on the surface portion, and therefore it is preferable to use at least as a diameter yarn or a front yarn.

In the solvent treatment, the solvent concentration, temperature and bath ratio may be set so as not to adversely affect the strength and appearance of the fabric after dissolution, but the dissolution is reduced by at least 10% by weight, preferably around 20% by weight of the fabric. Do as much as you can. When the weight loss ratio is less than 10% by weight, the easily soluble polymer component of the laminated filament yarn is not sufficiently dissolved and a desired swelling and squeaky feeling cannot be obtained when the cloth is formed. If the weight loss is more than 35% by weight, the dissolution of polyethylene terephthalate proceeds, resulting in an extremely low strength of the fabric, which is not preferable.

However, when the above-mentioned laminated filament yarn is used as both components of the different shrinkage yarn, it is preferable to keep the weight reduction rate to about 25% by weight.

The greige obtained as described above is normally subjected to relaxation scouring in hot water of 70 to 98 ° C, or after relaxation treatment with a normal pressure washer of 98 ° C, heat preset of 170 to 180 ° C to cause abnormal shrinkage. After one component (high shrinkage side) of the mixed fiber is shrunk to form a silk-spun fabric, a dissolution treatment is performed. Dyeing and finishing are preferably carried out subsequently.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (bright) having an intrinsic viscosity (η) (measured at 20 ° C. in a mixed solvent of phenol tetrachloroethane 6: 4) of 0.64 and a cation of 0.60. Dye-dyeable polyester (polyethylene terephthalate fiber-forming component copolymerized with 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid) (semi-dal) at a splicing ratio of 1: 1 using the spinning apparatus shown in FIG. Two
It was extruded from a spinneret having a Y-shaped spinning hole at 94 ° C. to obtain an undrawn yarn of 130 denier / 36 filaments at a winding speed of 1500 m / min. Then, these two undrawn yarns were drawn under the following drawing conditions: One of them has a drawing speed of 1000 m / min, a roller / plate temperature of 82 ° C./140° C., a spindle speed of 11,000 to 8,000 rpm, a drawing ratio of 2.60, and a heat shrinkage ratio of about 7%. The remaining one is stretched without heating the plate heater, the heat shrinkage rate is 43%, and the two yarns are mixed on the drawing and twisting machine to mix different shrinkage of 100 denier / 72 filaments. I got a thread. In spinning, a Kenics mixing element was used as a static kneading element.

The quality of the obtained different shrinkage mixed yarn was as follows.

Fineness 99.6 (denier) Strength 2.89 (g / d) Elongation 40.0 (%) Heat absorption 41.2 (%) Also, the bobbin rate and the cup rate were 100%.

Next, the different shrinkage mixed yarn is subjected to S twist 200T / M,
Using this yarn as the diameter yarn and the non-twisted different shrinkage mixed yarn as the weft,
Weaving was performed according to the following greige standards.

Habutae, diameter thread density 96 threads / inch, weft thread density 78 threads / inc
h, Adhesion rate of 7% After weaving, relax scouring was performed in a hot water of 70 to 98 ° C containing a nonionic activator and sodium hydroxide using a continuous relaxer. Then 1 with a short loop dryer
It was dried at 00 ° C and set at 180 ° C. Then, the product was treated with a 2% aqueous NaOH solution at 98 ° C for 45 minutes in a suspended state to obtain a 18% weight loss product.

The alkali-treated cloth is dyed with a jet dyeing machine at 120 ° C. to obtain a cream-colored dyeing product, and then a treatment liquid containing an antistatic agent is applied and finishing set at 170 ° C. to obtain silk. A spinning cloth was obtained. This was compared and measured by the KES method (developed by Professor Kawabata, Kyoto Univ.) With the 12-blade spinning weft Habutae using 31 denier raw silk as the diameter yarn and No. 140 twin yarn silk spinning as the weft yarn. Shown in the table.

As shown in the figure, this woven fabric had a texture, surface touch, drape, dyed surface, and gloss that were extremely similar to silk.

The tear strength (measured by the JIS L-1096D method) of this woven fabric was 480 g in diameter and 350 g in weft.

Example 2 A composite undrawn yarn of 133 denier / 36 filament was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1, and a 133 denier / 36 filament undrawn yarn of spun polyethylene terephthalate (bright) alone was separately prepared as follows. Stretching conditions,
I.e. After each drawing, by mixing two yarns on the drawing and twisting machine, 10
A drawn mixed multifilament of 0 denier / 72 filament was obtained. The yarn quality of the obtained mixed fiber was as follows.

Fineness 98.2 (denier) Strength 39.5 (g / d) Elongation 30.8 (%) Heat balance 15.2 (%) Further, both the bobbin rate and the cup rate were 100%.

The different shrinkage mixed fiber was subjected to S twist 200 T / M, this yarn was used as the diameter yarn, and the non-twisted different shrinkage mixed fiber was used as the weft, and the weaving was performed according to the following standards of raw machinery.

Habutae, diameter thread density 150 threads / inch, weft thread density 92 threads / in
After weaving ch, a cream dyed finished product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 26% weight loss product was obtained by treatment with a 2% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C. for 50 minutes.

Table 2 shows the results obtained by comparing this with the silk weft habutae in the same manner as in Example 1.

As shown in the figure, this fabric has a texture very similar to silk. The tear strength of this fabric is 1150 g in diameter and 1020 in weft.
It was g.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, according to the present invention, there is no dazzling luster peculiar to synthetic fibers, a calm and deep color tone is provided, and there is firmness and swelling in comparison with a conventional silk-like fabric. As a result, a silk-spun fabric is obtained which is remarkably improved.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a sectional view of a spinneret portion of a spinning device used in the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a cross section of a laminated filament yarn. (1) …… Spinner pack, (2) …… Lattice, (3) …… Distribution plate, (4) …… Mixing plate, (5) …… Spinneret, (11) (12) …… Reservoir, (13) '... filter, (14)' ... guide hole, (15) '... guide hole outlet, (16)' ... distribution plate guide hole, (17) ... mixing plate central part, (18 ) (19) …… static mixing element, (20) …… mixing element outlet, (21) …… spinning hole.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Reference number within the agency FI Technical indication location D02G 1/18 3/04 (72) Inventor Shigeki Honda 4-17-5 Mizumizuchi-cho, Sabae-shi, Fukui Prefecture No. (72) Inventor Shoichiro Noguchi 22-16 Tainishi-cho, Neyagawa-shi, Osaka Judgment panel Judge Chairman Kazuo Sangata Judge Takashi Tsuno Judge Kenji Sano (56) Reference JP 59-216976 (JP, A) JP-A-62-45721 (JP, A)

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. Two kinds of fiber-forming polymers having mutual affinity and different dissolution rates in a solvent are separately melted, and then these polymers are spun into a composite state through a static kneading element. The multi-filament type multi-filament yarn as a component is used as a component, and the high-shrinkage filament yarn having a difference in heat shrinkage with the multi-filament type multi-filament yarn of 5% or more is used as another component. A method for producing a silk-spun fabric, comprising obtaining a yarn, knitting a fabric using the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn, and then reducing the amount of the fabric by a dissolution treatment with a solvent. 2. The production method according to claim 1, wherein one of the fiber-forming polymers is polyethylene terephthalate. 3. The production method according to claim 1, wherein only one component of the different shrinkage mixed yarn is a laminated multifilament yarn. 4. The weight loss rate by dissolution treatment is 20 to 35% by weight.
The manufacturing method according to claim 1.