JPH05279970A - Production of worsted yarn-like woven or knitted fabric having moire effect - Google Patents
Production of worsted yarn-like woven or knitted fabric having moire effectInfo
- Publication number
- JPH05279970A JPH05279970A JP4102051A JP10205192A JPH05279970A JP H05279970 A JPH05279970 A JP H05279970A JP 4102051 A JP4102051 A JP 4102051A JP 10205192 A JP10205192 A JP 10205192A JP H05279970 A JPH05279970 A JP H05279970A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- group
- woven
- yarn group
- filaments
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Landscapes
- Coloring (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は柔軟でかつ梳毛調風合を
有する高反撥性織物に関し、更に詳しくは、比較的太デ
ニール繊維を使用しながらも特殊物性を有する糸条を使
用して織成されている柔軟な高反撥性杢調梳系織編物に
関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a highly repulsive woven fabric which is soft and has a worsted feeling, and more specifically, it is woven by using yarns having special physical properties while using relatively thick denier fibers. The present invention relates to a flexible high-resilience heathered cardboard woven or knitted fabric.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】従来、杢効果を有する梳毛調織編物を得
る方法として、特開昭６２−９７９４０号に記載される
ように、互いに染色性が異なり、かつ伸度が小さい糸と
伸度が大きい糸から成る複合仮撚糸を用いて織成し、異
色になるように染色処理、仕上加工処理を施す方法が採
られてきた。得られる梳毛調織編物は外観的には杢効果
を示し、表面タッチはウール調であったが、織物の張
り、腰、反撥性の面においては満足できるものではなか
った。一方、張り、腰を向上させるために前記複合仮撚
糸に単繊維の太い糸を用いる試みもされたが、織物とし
てのこなれ感において満足できるものではなかった。2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for obtaining a worsted woven or knitted fabric having a combing effect, as described in JP-A-62-97940, a yarn having different dyeability and a small elongation and an elongation A method of weaving using a composite false-twisted yarn composed of large yarns and performing a dyeing treatment and a finishing treatment treatment so as to give a different color has been adopted. The obtained worsted woven or knitted fabric had a heathering effect in appearance and had a wool-like surface touch, but it was not satisfactory in terms of fabric tension, waist and repulsion. On the other hand, attempts have been made to use thick monofilament yarns as the composite false-twisted yarns in order to improve the tension and the waist, but they are not satisfactory in the feeling of smoothness as a woven fabric.
【０００３】[0003]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明の目的は、かか
る従来の問題点を解決し、十分な質感と柔軟性を有し、
かつ、高反撥性も有する杢調梳毛織物を提供することに
ある。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to solve the above problems of the prior art and to have sufficient texture and flexibility,
In addition, it is to provide a heathered worsted woven fabric having high repulsion property.
【０００４】[0004]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は、単糸繊度が３
〜２０デニールの範囲にあるポリエステルフィラメント
からなる糸群Ａと単糸繊度が５デニール以下であるポリ
エステルフィラメントからなる糸群Ｂからなる複合糸で
あって、糸群Ａと糸群Ｂの少なくとも一方の群は、互い
に染色性が異なるかまたは少なくとも一種のフィラメン
トが紡糸以前に着色剤を混入されたことにより色が異な
る複数種のポリエステルフィラメントからなる複合糸Ｃ
を無撚状態でまたは追撚後に６０℃〜９５℃の範囲で熱
セットし、該熱セット複合糸Ｃを経糸及び緯糸の少なく
とも一方に使用して織成するか編成して布帛とし、前記
複合糸Ｃが異色染めになるように染色処理および仕上処
理を施すことを特徴とする、該布帛の仕上後において、
糸群Ａと糸群Ｂとは糸長差を有し、該糸長の比（Ｂ／
Ａ）が１．０３〜１．３０の範囲にあり、該糸長が大な
る糸群Ｂのフィラメントが該複合糸Ｃの主として表面部
分に配置され、かつ該糸長大なる糸群Ｂのフィラメント
が下記（１）、（２）を満足する物性を有し、柔軟な表
面タッチと杢効果を有する高反撥性梳毛調織編物の製造
方法を提供する。 ０．３ ≦ 強度（ｇ／ｄｅ） ≦ ２．０ （１） ５０ ≦ 伸度（％） ≦ ２００ （２）The present invention has a single yarn fineness of 3
A composite yarn consisting of a yarn group A made of polyester filaments in the range of -20 denier and a yarn group B made of polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less, wherein at least one of the yarn groups A and B is mutually Composite yarn C consisting of multiple types of polyester filaments having different dyeability or different colors due to at least one type of filament being mixed with a coloring agent before spinning
Is heat-set in the range of 60 ° C. to 95 ° C. in the untwisted state or after additional twisting, and the heat-set composite yarn C is used as at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn to weave or knit into a fabric, A dyeing treatment and a finishing treatment are performed so that the yarn C is dyed in a different color.
The yarn group A and the yarn group B have a yarn length difference, and the ratio (B /
A) is in the range of 1.03 to 1.30, the filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length are arranged mainly on the surface portion of the composite yarn C, and the filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length are as follows ( Provided is a method for producing a highly repulsive worsted woven or knitted fabric which has physical properties satisfying 1) and (2) and has a soft surface touch and a heathering effect. 0.3 ≤ strength (g / de) ≤ 2.0 (1) 50 ≤ elongation (%) ≤ 200 (2)
【０００５】以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。本発明で
用いるポリエステルフィラメントは、その主たる構成単
位がアルキレンテレフタレートであるポリエステルから
なる。このポリエステルは、テレフタル酸を主たる酸成
分とし、炭素数２〜６のアルキレングリコール、すなわ
ち、エチレングリコール、トリメチレングリコール、テ
トラメチレングリコール、ペンタメチレングリコール、
ヘキサメチレングリコールから、特に好ましくはエチレ
ングリコールおよびテトラメチレングリコールから選ば
れた少なくとも一種のグリコールを主たるグリコール成
分とするポリエステルである。また、テレフタル酸成分
の一部を他の二官能性カルボン酸成分で置換えたポリエ
ステルであってもよく、また、グリコール成分の一部を
上記のグリコール以外のジオール成分で置換えたポリエ
ステルであってもよい。The present invention will be described in detail below. The polyester filament used in the present invention is composed of polyester whose main constituent unit is alkylene terephthalate. This polyester contains terephthalic acid as a main acid component and has an alkylene glycol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that is, ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol,
A polyester containing hexamethylene glycol, particularly preferably at least one glycol selected from ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component. Further, it may be a polyester in which a part of the terephthalic acid component is replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid component, or a polyester in which a part of the glycol component is replaced with a diol component other than the above glycol. Good.
【０００６】本発明で使用するポリエステルフィラメン
ト複合糸Ｃは糸群Ａと糸群Ｂとから構成され、さらに糸
群Ａと糸群Ｂのうち、少くとも一方の群は互いに染色性
が異なるか、または少なくとも一種のフィラメントが紡
糸以前に着色剤を混入されたことにより色が異なる２種
以上のポリエステルフィラメントから構成される。この
ような構成は複合糸Ｃから成る織編物を染色工程におい
て杢調のウール調織編物の外観にするために必要であ
る。また、染色性が異なるため、織編物が仕上げ加工さ
れたとき、互いにデニール差や微妙な物性差があること
と相俟って風合や杢調外観が微妙に変った製品を得るこ
とができる。糸群Ａおよび／または糸群Ｂを構成する染
色性の異なる複数種のフィラメントの比率は格別限定さ
れるものではなく、その比率は目的とする杢調に応じて
適宜設定すればよい。The polyester filament composite yarn C used in the present invention comprises a yarn group A and a yarn group B, and at least one of the yarn group A and the yarn group B has different dyeability or at least one of them. The filament is composed of two or more kinds of polyester filaments which are different in color due to being mixed with a coloring agent before spinning. Such a constitution is necessary for the woven or knitted fabric made of the composite yarn C to have the appearance of a wool-tone woven or knitted fabric in the dyeing process. In addition, because the dyeability is different, when the woven or knitted fabric is finished, there is a denier difference or a subtle physical property difference, and it is possible to obtain a product with a slightly different texture or heather appearance. .. The ratio of the plurality of types of filaments having different dyeing properties that form the yarn group A and / or the yarn group B is not particularly limited, and the ratio may be appropriately set according to the desired gradation.
【０００７】糸群Ａのフィラメントの単糸繊度は３〜２
０デニールが必要である。３デニール未満では複合糸Ｃ
が細く、該糸Ｃから成る織編物が薄い布帛であっても張
り、腰、反撥性が低過ぎて好ましくない。また、２０デ
ニールを超えると糸群Ａが柔らかな糸と言えども織編
物、特に織物としての風合的こなれ感に乏しく、ごわご
わした織物となり好ましくない。好ましい単糸繊度は５
デニール〜１５デニールである。また、糸群Ａのフィラ
メントの強度（Ｓｔ）は２．０≦Ｓｔ≦６．０であり、
伸度（Ｅｌ）は３０≦Ｅｌ≦１２０％の範囲であること
が好ましい。The single yarn fineness of the filament of the yarn group A is 3 to 2
0 denier is required. Composite yarn C below 3 denier
Even if a woven or knitted fabric made of the yarn C is thin, the cloth is not preferable because the cloth is too tight and has poor elasticity and repulsion. On the other hand, if the yarn group A exceeds 20 denier, although the yarn group A is a soft yarn, it does not have a feeling of smooth knitting as a woven or knitted fabric, especially a woven fabric, and is not preferable because it becomes a stiff fabric. The preferred single yarn fineness is 5
Denier to 15 denier. Further, the filament strength (St) of the yarn group A is 2.0 ≦ St ≦ 6.0,
The elongation (El) is preferably in the range of 30 ≦ El ≦ 120%.
【０００８】糸群Ｂを構成するポリエステルフィラメン
トとしては、単糸繊度が５デニール以下のものを用い
る。これは、糸群Ｂと糸群Ａからなる複合糸Ｃが織編成
された後染色仕上加工に際して熱工程を経るが、その時
の熱により糸群Ａと糸群Ｂとの間に糸長差が生じ、糸群
Ｂはたるみを発現し、織編物の表面に現われ鞘糸となる
ため、織物の風合、特に表面タッチに与える影響が大き
いからである。従って、糸群Ｂの単糸繊度が５デニール
を超えると表面が硬く、がさがさ、ごわごわした織物と
なり、梳毛調織物とはかけ離れた織物となる。好ましい
単糸繊度は０．５〜２．０デニールの範囲である。As the polyester filaments constituting the yarn group B, those having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less are used. This involves a heat step in the dyeing finishing process after the composite yarn C composed of the yarn group B and the yarn group A is woven and knitted, but the heat at that time causes a yarn length difference between the yarn group A and the yarn group B, resulting in a yarn group B. This is because slack is developed and the yarn appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric and becomes a sheath yarn, which greatly affects the texture of the woven fabric, particularly the surface touch. Therefore, when the single yarn fineness of the yarn group B exceeds 5 denier, the woven fabric has a hard surface, is rugged and has a stiff texture, and is far from the worsted woven fabric. The preferred single yarn fineness is in the range of 0.5 to 2.0 denier.
【０００９】糸群Ｂのフィラメントの強度（Ｓｔ）は
０．３≦Ｓｔ（ｇ／ｄ）≦２．０であり、伸度（Ｅｌ）
は５０≦Ｅｌ（％）≦２００の範囲である。強度が０．
３ｇ／ｄ未満であると磨耗強度が弱く衣服の着用上問題
が生じやすく、また２．０ｇ／ｄを超えるとピリングの
発生の原因にもなりやすく良くない。伸度についても同
じようなことが言える。好ましくは強度（Ｓｔ）は０．
５≦Ｓｔ（ｇ／ｄ）≦１．７であり、伸度（Ｅｌ）は６
０≦Ｅｌ（％）≦１５０の範囲である。The strength (St) of the filaments of the yarn group B is 0.3 ≦ St (g / d) ≦ 2.0, and the elongation (El) is
Is in the range of 50 ≦ El (%) ≦ 200. Strength is 0.
If it is less than 3 g / d, the abrasion strength is weak and a problem in wearing clothes is likely to occur, and if it exceeds 2.0 g / d, pilling is likely to occur, which is not good. The same thing can be said about elongation. The strength (St) is preferably 0.
5 ≦ St (g / d) ≦ 1.7 and the elongation (El) is 6
The range is 0 ≦ El (%) ≦ 150.
【００１０】本発明に使用する複合糸は糸群Ａを構成す
るフィラメントとして高配向未延伸、糸群Ｂを構成する
フィラメントとして低配向未延伸糸を用いて、両者を引
揃えて低倍率延伸で、かつ低温で仮撚を行なうことによ
り得られる。低温度域としては室温が好ましい。即ち、
糸群Ａとして単糸繊度が３〜２０デニールの高配向未延
伸糸フィラメントを、また、糸群Ｂとして単糸繊度が５
デニール以下の低配向未延伸フィラメント糸とを使用
し、該２種の糸群の未延伸糸を引揃え状態で仮撚する。
この仮撚における温度は高々８０℃までとし、好ましく
は、仮撚は温度２０〜３０℃の室温で行なう。また、延
伸倍率は１．３〜１．６５の範囲が好ましい。In the composite yarn used in the present invention, a highly oriented undrawn yarn is used as the filament constituting the yarn group A, and a low oriented undrawn yarn is used as the filament constituting the yarn group B. Obtained by performing false twisting at low temperature. Room temperature is preferable as the low temperature range. That is,
The yarn group A is a highly oriented undrawn yarn filament having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 20 denier, and the yarn group B is a single yarn fineness of 5
A low orientation undrawn filament yarn having a denier or less is used, and the undrawn yarns of the two types of yarn groups are false twisted in an aligned state.
The temperature in this false twist is up to 80 ° C., and preferably, the false twist is performed at a room temperature of 20 to 30 ° C. Further, the draw ratio is preferably in the range of 1.3 to 1.65.
【００１１】本発明に使用する複合糸は上記のような方
法により作成されるので、糸群Ｂの未延伸糸は自然倍率
以下の延伸作用を受ける。仮に、未延伸糸Ｂがかかる自
然倍率以下の延伸作用を単独で受ければ、該未延伸糸は
シック・アンド・シンの斑糸になる。しかしながら、本
発明に使用する複合糸においては高配向未延伸糸Ａと低
配向未延伸糸Ｂが共に仮撚、延伸されるので該未延伸糸
Ｂはシック・アンド・シンの斑糸にならず均一なフィラ
メントとして得られる。しかも、このようなフィラメン
トは該仮撚、延伸の時に熱セットを施さないので、ヤン
グ率も極めて低いものとして得られる。本発明で使用さ
れるフィラメントＢのヤング率は一般に１３０〜６００
の範囲にある。また、自然倍率以下の延伸作用を受ける
ので、該糸長の長いフィラメント（糸群Ｂ）の強度（Ｓ
ｔ）は０．３≦Ｓｔ≦２．０の範囲になり、表面タッチ
に柔軟性を与える。Since the composite yarn used in the present invention is produced by the above-mentioned method, the undrawn yarn of the yarn group B is subjected to the drawing action at a natural draw ratio or less. If the undrawn yarn B is solely subjected to the drawing action at the natural magnification or less, the undrawn yarn becomes thick and thin uneven yarn. However, in the composite yarn used in the present invention, both the highly oriented undrawn yarn A and the low oriented undrawn yarn B are false twisted and drawn, so that the undrawn yarn B does not become a chic and thin mottled yarn. Obtained as a uniform filament. Moreover, since such filaments are not heat-set during the false twisting and drawing, the Young's modulus can be obtained as extremely low. The Young's modulus of the filament B used in the present invention is generally 130 to 600.
Is in the range. In addition, since it is subjected to a stretching action at a natural magnification ratio or less, the strength (S
t) is in the range of 0.3 ≦ St ≦ 2.0, which gives the surface touch flexibility.
【００１２】本発明に使用する複合糸Ｃの沸水収縮率は
一般に１０％〜５０％と高く、そのため、無撚状態でま
たは追撚後に熱セットして沸水収縮率をより小さくする
必要がある。熱セットは６０℃〜９５℃の温度で行う。
熱セットの方法としてはスチームセットまたは真空スチ
ームセットが効果的である。熱セットによって、撚止め
セットされるばかりでなく、糸群Ｂが自己伸長を起こし
たるみを発現し鞘糸となりやすくなる効果が生じる。The boiling water shrinkage of the composite yarn C used in the present invention is generally as high as 10% to 50%. Therefore, it is necessary to heat-set in the untwisted state or after additional twisting to make the boiling water shrinkage smaller. Heat setting is performed at a temperature of 60 ° C to 95 ° C.
A steam set or a vacuum steam set is effective as a heat setting method. By the heat setting, not only the twist setting but also the effect that the yarn group B develops a slack that causes self-expansion and easily becomes a sheath yarn is produced.
【００１３】本発明の織編物は、複合糸を経糸および緯
糸の少なくとも一方に使用して織成するが、または、複
合糸Ｃを用いて編成することにより得られる。製編織し
た後、織編物は染色仕上げ工程に送られるが、該染色仕
上げは、一般に精練リラックス、起毛、プレセット、染
色、剪毛、ファイナルセットの工程、または、起毛をプ
レセット後に施す他は同様な工程を経ることによって行
われる。起毛および剪毛工程を省略した加工工程で仕上
げても構わないが、起毛を施した方がより梳毛調織物に
なる。The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by weaving the composite yarn as at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, or by knitting using the composite yarn C. After knitting and weaving, the woven and knitted fabric is sent to a dyeing finishing step, which is generally the same as scouring and relaxing, raising, presetting, dyeing, shearing, final setting steps, or performing raising after presetting. It is performed by going through various steps. Although it may be finished by a processing step in which the raising and shearing steps are omitted, it is more preferable that the raising gives a worsted fabric.
【００１４】精練リラックス処理で沸水により熱処理さ
れ、続いてプレセットにおいて行われる熱処理で複合糸
Ｃの糸長の長いフィラメント（糸群Ｂ）が自己伸長性を
示すようになる。かかる挙動は、織物を構成する糸に撚
が施されていても発現する。フィラメント（糸群Ｂ）の
自己伸長によって糸の表面および織物の表面には該複合
糸Ｃの糸長の長いフィラメント（糸群Ｂ）が主として配
置される。精練リラックスは高温で行われ、１２０℃〜
１３０℃が好ましい。また、プレセット工程は通常の温
度より高い１８０〜２００℃で行われ、好ましくは１８
５℃〜１９５℃で行われる。このような条件下で処理す
ることにより糸群Ｂのフィラメントの自己伸長が大きく
なり、織物のふくらみ感を、反撥性をより向上させるこ
とができる。The scouring / relaxing treatment heat-treats with boiling water, and the heat treatment subsequently carried out in the preset makes the filaments (yarn group B) having a long yarn length of the composite yarn C exhibit self-stretching property. Such behavior is exhibited even when the yarns constituting the woven fabric are twisted. Due to the self-elongation of the filaments (yarn group B), the filaments (yarn group B) having a long yarn length of the composite yarn C are mainly arranged on the surface of the yarn and the surface of the woven fabric. Scouring relaxation is performed at high temperature, 120 ℃ ~
130 ° C. is preferred. Also, the presetting step is performed at 180 to 200 ° C., which is higher than the normal temperature, and preferably 18
It is performed at 5 ° C to 195 ° C. By treating under such conditions, the self-elongation of the filaments of the yarn group B is increased, and the swelling feeling of the woven fabric can be further improved.
【００１５】また、上記複合系Ｃを織物にするに際して
の施撚は撚係数ｋが４０００〜１８，０００の範囲で行
なうことが好ましい。ここで、仮撚係数ｋは次の式で表
わされる。 ｋ＝１メートル当りの撚数×√デニールThe twisting of the composite system C into a woven fabric is preferably carried out with a twist coefficient k in the range of 4000 to 18,000. Here, the false twist coefficient k is expressed by the following equation. k = number of twists per meter x √ denier
【００１６】[0016]
【実施例】以下、実施例について本発明の梳毛調織編物
の製造法を具体的に説明する。 実施例１ 糸群Ａを構成する高配向未延伸糸として普通ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートフィラメント糸（１１５デニール、１
５フィラメント）と糸群Ｂを構成する低配向未延伸糸と
して普通ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸
（９０デニール、２４フィラメント）とソジュームスル
ホイソフタレートを２．６モル％を共重合させたカチオ
ン可染ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸（１
５０デニール、４８フィラメント）を引き揃えて図１に
示すような装置を用いて、低温仮撚を施した。すなわ
ち、高配向未延伸糸Ｙ1 、カチオン可染低配向未延伸糸
Ｙ2 および普通低配向未延伸糸Ｙ3 をそれぞれガイドＧ
1 ，Ｇ2 およびＧ3 を通し、さらにガイドＧ4 を通して
引揃え、供給ローラー１と中間ローラー３との間でイン
ターレースノズル２にて交絡を生じせしめ、１．６２倍
の延伸を与えながら低温仮撚を施した。図中、４はヒー
ター、５は仮撚手段、６は中間ローラーを示す。この時
の仮撚は室温中で行い、特にヒーター４による加熱は行
なわなかった。EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the method for producing the worsted woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. Example 1 As a highly oriented undrawn yarn constituting yarn group A, ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (115 denier, 1
Cation dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament obtained by copolymerizing 2.6 mol% of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (90 denier, 24 filaments) and sodium sulfoisophthalate as a low orientation undrawn yarn constituting yarn group B. Thread (1
50 denier, 48 filaments) were aligned and subjected to low temperature false twisting using an apparatus as shown in FIG. That is, the highly oriented undrawn yarn Y 1 , the cationic dyeable low oriented undrawn yarn Y 2 and the ordinary low oriented undrawn yarn Y 3 are respectively guided G
1 , G 2 and G 3 and then guide G 4 to align them and cause interlacing between the supply roller 1 and the intermediate roller 3 at the interlace nozzle 2 to give a 1.62 times stretch and a low temperature temporary. Twisted. In the figure, 4 is a heater, 5 is false twisting means, and 6 is an intermediate roller. At this time, false twisting was performed at room temperature, and heating by the heater 4 was not performed.
【００１７】仮撚加工後に沸水収縮率を調整するため
に、ヒーター７にて連続的に２８０℃にて熱セットを行
ない、捲取ローラー８にてロール９状に捲取った。得ら
れた複合糸は２３０デニール、８７フィラメントの糸で
あり沸水収縮率は１１．７％であった。上記複合糸を右
撚６００Ｔ／Ｍにて追撚後８０℃で３０分間真空スチー
ムセットした。次いで、この複合糸を表１に示す条件で
製織、染色加工をした。針布起毛は精練リラックス後に
実施した。染色はカチオン染料のみを用い、黒色に染色
した。In order to adjust the shrinkage rate of boiling water after the false twisting process, heat setting was continuously carried out by the heater 7 at 280 ° C., and the roll 9 was wound by the winding roller 8. The obtained composite yarn was a yarn having 230 denier and 87 filaments, and the boiling water shrinkage rate was 11.7%. After the additional twisting of the above-described composite yarn with right twisting of 600 T / M, vacuum steam setting was performed at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. Next, this composite yarn was woven and dyed under the conditions shown in Table 1. The raising of the needle cloth was performed after the scouring and relaxing. For the dyeing, only the cationic dye was used and dyed black.
【００１８】[0018]
【表１】 [Table 1]
【００１９】得られた織物はアルカリ減量処理を行なっ
ていないにもかかわらず表面タッチは柔軟でかつぬめり
感もあり、しかも反撥性に優れ、皺にもなり難く、外観
的にも杢流れもなくこなれた感じの杢となった。得られ
た織物の物性を表２に示す。Although the obtained woven fabric is not subjected to alkali reduction treatment, its surface touch is soft and has a slimy feel, and is excellent in repulsion, hardly wrinkles, and there is no shedding in appearance. It became a heather with a familiar feeling. Table 2 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric.
【００２０】[0020]
【表２】 [Table 2]
【００２１】実施例２ 糸群Ａを構成する高配向未延伸糸として普通ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートフィラメント糸（２６８デニール、１
２フィラメント）と糸群Ｂを構成する低配向未延伸糸と
して普通ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸
（１５０デニール、３６フィラメント）とソジュームス
ルホイソフタレートを２．６モル％共重合させたカチオ
ン可染ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸（２
２５デニール、７２フィラメント）を引き揃えて図１に
示すような装置を用いて１．６７倍の延伸を与えながら
低温仮撚を施した。ヒーター４による仮撚温度は８０℃
とした。加工後に沸水収縮率を調整するためにヒーター
７により連続的に２８０℃にて熱セットを行なった。得
られた複合糸は４２４デニール、１２０フィラメントの
糸であり、沸水収縮率は２．２％であった。Example 2 As a highly oriented undrawn yarn constituting the yarn group A, ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (268 denier, 1
2 filaments) and a low-orientation unstretched yarn constituting the yarn group B, a normal dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (150 denier, 36 filaments) and 2.6 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalate are copolymerized with cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn. (2
25 denier, 72 filaments) were aligned, and low temperature false twisting was performed using a device as shown in FIG. False twist temperature by heater 4 is 80 ° C
And After the processing, heat setting was continuously performed at 280 ° C. by the heater 7 in order to adjust the boiling water shrinkage rate. The obtained composite yarn was a yarn of 424 denier and 120 filaments, and the boiling water shrinkage rate was 2.2%.
【００２２】上記複合糸を使用して撚数５００Ｔ／Ｍ
（ｋ＝１０３００）にて７５℃で３０分間真空スチーム
熱セットを行った。経密度を８２本／３．７９cm）緯密
度を８０本／３．７９cm、織組織を綾（２／２↑）とし
て製織し、表１に示す条件下に染色加工処理を実施し
た。針布起毛はプレセット後に実施した。染色はカチオ
ン染料のみで実施した。得られた織物はアルカリ減量処
理を行なっていないにもかかわらず、反撥性に優れ、表
面タッチも柔軟で、しかも皺になり難く、外観的にもこ
なれた杢感が表現され、サキソニー調の織物が得られ
た。得られた織物の物性は表２に示す。表２に示すよう
に、織物は良好な抗ピリング性を示した。Using the above composite yarn, the twist number is 500 T / M
Vacuum steam heat setting was performed at (k = 10300) at 75 ° C. for 30 minutes. The warp density was 82 threads / 3.79 cm, the weft density was 80 threads / 3.79 cm, and the weaving texture was twill (2/2 ↑). The raising of the needle cloth was performed after the preset. Dyeing was carried out only with cationic dyes. Although the obtained fabric is not subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment, it has excellent resilience, has a soft surface touch, is less likely to wrinkle, and has a well-feeling heathered appearance. was gotten. The physical properties of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, the fabric exhibited good pilling resistance.
【００２３】[0023]
【作用および発明の効果】本発明方法においては、織編
物は仕上げ工程で熱処理されるため、複合糸を構成する
高配向未延伸フィラメント糸（糸群Ａ）は熱収縮し、他
方、低配向未延伸フィラメント糸（糸群Ｂ）は自己伸長
性を示し、この結果、両フィラメント糸に糸長差を生
じ、フィラメント相互間に空隙ができ、このためフィラ
メント間の接圧が減少し、織物のふくらみ感と共に反撥
性が向上する。特に、糸群Ｂのフィラメント糸の自己伸
長は、未撚状態でまたは追撚後に熱セットすることによ
り染色仕上工程で熱処理されたときに顕著に発現し、反
撥性およびふくらみ感の向上に大きく寄与する。かかる
反撥性の向上は、従来のようにアルカリ減量を行わなく
とも達成することができる。In the method of the present invention, since the woven or knitted material is heat-treated in the finishing step, the highly oriented undrawn filament yarn (yarn group A) constituting the composite yarn undergoes heat shrinkage, while the low oriented undrawn yarn is produced. The filament yarns (yarn group B) exhibit self-stretchability, and as a result, a difference in yarn length occurs between both filament yarns, and voids are created between the filaments, which reduces the contact pressure between the filaments and increases the feeling of swelling of the fabric. The resilience is improved. In particular, the self-elongation of the filament yarn of the yarn group B is remarkably exhibited when it is heat-treated in the dyeing and finishing step by heat setting in the untwisted state or after the additional twisting, and greatly contributes to the improvement of the resilience and the feeling of swelling. .. Such improvement in repulsion can be achieved without performing alkali reduction as in the conventional case.
【００２４】また、複合糸は、それを構成する糸群Ａと
糸群Ｂの少くとも一方が、互に染色性が異なるかまたは
少なくとも一種が紡糸以前に着色剤を混入されたことに
より色が異なるポリエステルフィラメントから成ってい
るため、その異色効果が杢調として発現する。色または
染色性が異なるフィラメント糸の混率を変えることによ
って杢調外観の異なる織編物を得ることができる。この
ような色または染色性の異なるフィラメントの混入に加
えて、上記のような糸長差によって、こなれを杢調の外
観を極めて優れた反撥性とふくらみ感を有する織編物が
得られる。In the composite yarn, at least one of the yarn group A and the yarn group B constituting the composite yarn has different dyeability from each other, or at least one of them has a different color due to mixing with a coloring agent before spinning. Since it is composed of filaments, its different color effect is exhibited as a tone. By changing the mixing ratio of filament yarns having different colors or dyeing properties, it is possible to obtain woven and knitted fabrics having different grain tones. In addition to such a mixture of filaments having different colors or dyeability, a woven or knitted product having an extremely repellent and swelling appearance and an extremely excellent resilience and swelling feeling can be obtained due to the difference in yarn length as described above.
【００２５】さらに、本発明の方法により得られる織編
物は、その表面がヤング率が極めて低く糸長が長いフィ
ラメント（糸群Ｂ）によって覆われているので柔軟でぬ
めり感に富んだ表面タッチが得られる。また、織編物を
覆う繊維の強度Ｓｔが０．３≦Ｓｔ≦２．０の範囲にあ
るので、抗ピリング性が優れた織物となる。織編物を仕
上げ加工するに際して、精練リラックス後に、またはプ
レセット後に針布による起毛を施すと、こなれた杢感と
ふくらみおよび柔らかな表面タッチを有する梳毛調の織
編物となる。Furthermore, since the surface of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention is covered with filaments (thread group B) having a very low Young's modulus and a long yarn length, a soft and slimy surface touch can be obtained. Be done. Further, since the strength St of the fiber covering the woven or knitted fabric is in the range of 0.3 ≦ St ≦ 2.0, the woven fabric has excellent anti-pilling property. When finishing the woven or knitted fabric, after scouring and relaxing, or after presetting, raising with a needle cloth gives a woven and knitted fabric having a combed feel and bulge and a soft surface touch.
【００２６】本発明によれば、トップ染め梳毛糸を用い
たと同様の杢効果並びに風合を有する織編物を熱可塑性
マルチフィラメント糸を主体に用いて、後染め或いは原
着によって得ることができる。本発明の織編物は、上記
のような優れた特性を有しているので着用疲労、着崩れ
が起きないような用途であるスーツ、スラックス、ユニ
フォーム等に好適に使用される。According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a heathering effect and a texture similar to those using the top-dyed worsted yarn, mainly by using the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, by post-dyeing or spun-dying. Since the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned excellent properties, it is suitably used for suits, slacks, uniforms and the like, which are used for preventing wear and tear on wear.
【図１】複合糸を得る装置の一例を示す側面図である。FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of an apparatus for obtaining a composite yarn.
Ｙ1 高配向未延伸糸 Ｙ2 カチオン可染低配向未延伸糸 Ｙ3 普通低配向未延伸糸 Ｇ1 〜Ｇ ガイド １ 供給ローラー ２ インターレースノズル ３ 中間ローラー ４ ヒーター ５ 仮撚手段 ６ 中間ローラー ７ ヒーター ８ 捲取りローラー ９ 複合糸Y 1 Highly oriented undrawn yarn Y 2 Cationic dyeable low oriented undrawn yarn Y 3 Normal low orientation undrawn yarn G 1 to G guide 1 Supply roller 2 Interlace nozzle 3 Intermediate roller 4 Heater 5 False twisting means 6 Intermediate roller 7 Heater 8 Winding roller 9 Composite yarn
───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.5 識別記号 庁内整理番号 ＦＩ 技術表示箇所 Ｄ０３Ｄ 15/04 Ａ 7199−3Ｂ ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 5 Identification code Internal reference number FI technical display location D03D 15/04 A 7199-3B
Claims (1)
範囲にあるポリエステルフィラメントからなる糸群Ａと
単糸繊度が５デニール以下であるポリエステルフィラメ
ントからなる糸群Ｂからなる複合糸であって、糸群Ａと
糸群Ｂの少なくとも一方の群は互いに染色性が異なるか
または少なくとも一種のフィラメントが紡糸以前に着色
剤を混入されたことにより色が異なる複数種のポリエス
テルフィラメントからなる複合糸Ｃを無撚状態でまたは
追撚後に６０℃〜９５℃の範囲で熱セットし、該熱セッ
ト複合糸Ｃを経糸及び緯糸の少なくとも一方に使用して
織成するか編成して布帛とし、前記複合糸Ｃが異色染め
になるように染色処理および仕上処理を施すことを特徴
とする、該布帛の仕上後において、糸群Ａと糸群Ｂとは
糸長差を有し、該糸長の比（Ｂ／Ａ）が１．０３〜１．
３０の範囲にあり、該糸長が大なる糸群Ｂのフィラメン
トが該複合糸Ｃの主として表面部分に配置され、かつ該
糸長大なる糸群Ｂのフィラメントが下記（１）、（２）
を満足する物性を有し、柔軟な表面タッチと杢効果を有
する高反撥性梳毛調織編物の製造方法。 ０．３ ≦ 強度（ｇ／ｄ） ≦ ２．０ （１） ５０ ≦ 伸度（％） ≦ ２００ （２）1. A composite yarn comprising a yarn group A consisting of polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness in the range of 3 denier to 20 denier and a yarn group B consisting of polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less. At least one of the yarn group B and the yarn group B has different dyeability from each other, or at least one filament is mixed with a coloring agent before spinning, and a composite yarn C made of a plurality of types of polyester filaments having different colors is untwisted. Alternatively, after additional twisting, heat setting is performed in a range of 60 ° C. to 95 ° C., and the heat set composite yarn C is used as at least one of warp and weft to be woven or knitted to form a fabric, and the composite yarn C is dyed in a different color. The yarn group A and the yarn group B have a yarn length difference after finishing of the cloth, characterized by being subjected to dyeing treatment and finishing treatment so that The length ratio (B / A) is 1.03 to 1.
In the range of 30, the filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length are arranged mainly on the surface of the composite yarn C, and the filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length are the following (1) and (2).
A method for manufacturing a highly repulsive worsted woven or knitted fabric having physical properties satisfying the requirements, a flexible surface touch and a heathering effect. 0.3 ≤ strength (g / d) ≤ 2.0 (1) 50 ≤ elongation (%) ≤ 200 (2)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP10205192A JP3225083B2 (en) | 1992-03-27 | 1992-03-27 | Manufacturing method of worsted tone knitted fabric with heather effect |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP10205192A JP3225083B2 (en) | 1992-03-27 | 1992-03-27 | Manufacturing method of worsted tone knitted fabric with heather effect |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH05279970A true JPH05279970A (en) | 1993-10-26 |
| JP3225083B2 JP3225083B2 (en) | 2001-11-05 |
Family
ID=14316971
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP10205192A Expired - Fee Related JP3225083B2 (en) | 1992-03-27 | 1992-03-27 | Manufacturing method of worsted tone knitted fabric with heather effect |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3225083B2 (en) |
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH08176935A (en) * | 1994-12-27 | 1996-07-09 | Toray Ind Inc | Polyester-based stretchable knitted or woven fabric having moire pattern and bulkiness and its production |
| JPH11247048A (en) * | 1998-03-02 | 1999-09-14 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Woven fabric of polyester composite yarn and its production |
| JP2000096378A (en) * | 1998-09-22 | 2000-04-04 | Kanebo Ltd | Production of self elongating yarn and hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn |
| KR20170012438A (en) | 2015-04-24 | 2017-02-02 | 도요 에어로졸 고교 가부시키가이샤 | Residual quantity-reducing member |
| WO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2018-12-06 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
-
1992
- 1992-03-27 JP JP10205192A patent/JP3225083B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH08176935A (en) * | 1994-12-27 | 1996-07-09 | Toray Ind Inc | Polyester-based stretchable knitted or woven fabric having moire pattern and bulkiness and its production |
| JPH11247048A (en) * | 1998-03-02 | 1999-09-14 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Woven fabric of polyester composite yarn and its production |
| JP2000096378A (en) * | 1998-09-22 | 2000-04-04 | Kanebo Ltd | Production of self elongating yarn and hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn |
| KR20170012438A (en) | 2015-04-24 | 2017-02-02 | 도요 에어로졸 고교 가부시키가이샤 | Residual quantity-reducing member |
| WO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2018-12-06 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
| CN110709544A (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2020-01-17 | 帝人富瑞特株式会社 | Charge-generating yarn for coping with bacteria, method for producing charge-generating yarn for coping with bacteria, and antibacterial fabric |
| JPWO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2020-04-02 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Anti-bacterial charge generating yarn, method for producing anti-bacterial charge generating yarn, and antibacterial fabric |
| CN110709544B (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2022-03-11 | 帝人富瑞特株式会社 | Charge-generating yarn for coping with bacteria, method for producing charge-generating yarn for coping with bacteria, and antibacterial fabric |
| US11421350B2 (en) | 2017-05-30 | 2022-08-23 | Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd. | Antibacterial electric charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP3225083B2 (en) | 2001-11-05 |
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