JPH08158198A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a soft and dry woven fabric, capable of eliminating defects such as a hard touch feeling due to a core possessed by a conventional woven fabric and excellent in fullness, body, stiffness and repulsiveness. CONSTITUTION: The characteristic of this woven fabric comprises a composite textured yarn, comprising an ultrafine polyester filament yarn A having 0.1-1 denier single filament size and a polyester filament yarn B having 3-15 denier single filament size and having real twists, the ultrafine polyester filament yarn A being semidrawn, a part of the ultrafine polyester filament yarn being dispersed among the single filaments of the polyester filament yarn B and the other part of the ultrafine polyester filament yarn A having mainly a curved looped shape in the real twist direction in the surface layer of the composite textured yarn.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a soft and dry woven fabric comprising a composite processed yarn of ultrafine fibers and other fibers and having excellent swelling, firmness, elasticity and resilience.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is well known that a soft fabric is obtained by using ultrafine fibers. It is also well known to use extra-thick fibers as a method for imparting elasticity and stiffness to a woven fabric.

Fabrics using ultrafine fibers to obtain a fabric having a soft touch are generally pointed out as having a slimy feel. In addition, in order to improve the texture of this slimy feeling, a raw yarn obtained by mixing and spinning inorganic particles such as titanium oxide is used to make the fiber surface rough and rough in the alkali weight reduction process of the dyeing process of the fabric. The method of roughening the fiber surface by plasma processing and the method of adding ceramic particles to the finishing resin agent are used, but in these methods, in terms of quality such as washing durability depending on cost and processing method. There is a big problem.

[0004] Further, there is a method of using extra-thick fibers as a method for imparting elasticity and stiffness to a woven fabric, but an aggregate of extra-thick filaments is generally rarely used as a single extra-thick fiber because of its hard texture, and extra-thick fibers are used. There is known a method of obtaining a woven fabric with a firmness and elasticity by having a soft texture by a combination of a fine filament and a fine filament.

However, conventionally, when a fiber that contributes to a soft touch and a fiber that imparts elasticity and stiffness are combined, for example, Japanese Patent Publication Nos. 61-19733 and 63-63.
As disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 61422, it is proposed that the boundary portion between the multifilament forming the core and the multifilament forming the sheath is mixed and entangled. However, the multifilament forming the central portion is bundled. To form a single structure (the filaments that form the sheath are almost non-existent in the filaments that form the core), so when viewed as a composite yarn as a whole, the bending rigidity is large and the texture is hard. There was a defect that it became firm and elastic, and the fabric was too repulsive.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION Problems to be Solved by the Invention The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art and uses polyester ultrafine fibers and other fibers to produce a soft and dry woven fabric which is excellent in swelling, elasticity, resilience and resilience. The purpose is to provide.

[0007]

The present invention has the following constitution in order to achieve the above object.

That is, a polyester ultrafine filament A having a single fiber fineness of 0.1 to 1 denier and a single fiber fineness of 3 to 1
A woven fabric comprising a composite processed yarn having a real twist consisting of a 5 denier polyester filament B, wherein the polyester ultrafine filament A is a semi-drawn yarn, and a part of the polyester ultrafine filament A in the composite processed yarn. Are dispersed among the single fibers of the polyester filament B, and the other part of the polyester ultrafine filament A has a curved loop shape mainly in the direction of actual twist in the surface layer of the composite processed yarn. It is a woven fabric.

The details of the present invention will be described below.

The polyester ultrafine filament A used in the present invention has a monofilament fineness of 0.1 to 1 denier, and it is important that it consists of a semi-drawn yarn.

The soft and dry touch which is the effect of the woven fabric of the present invention is that the polyester ultrafine filament A used in the composite processed yarn constituting the woven fabric is a yarn in a semi-stretched state in which the polyester is ultrafine and the fibers are oriented gently. It is necessary to be. The softer the fineness of the single fiber is, the softer the touch can be obtained, but the drawn yarn in which the fibers are drawn and highly oriented has a drawback that the slimy feeling becomes stronger. In addition, the semi-drawn yarn referred to here specifically means that the birefringence Δn is 35 × 1.
It is preferably in the range of 0 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ .

The composite textured yarn used in the present invention is made of polyester and has a polyester structural unit of 80.
A polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit at a mol% or more is preferable. Further, a polyester obtained by adding or copolymerizing isophthalic acid, polyalkylene glycol, sulfoisophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, or the like to the polyester component may be used.

The constituent components of these polyester ultrafine filaments and the birefringence index Δn of the fibers are such that when the composite fabric with another polyester filament B used in combination with this is subjected to alkali reduction in the dyeing process, the polyester ultrafine filaments Filament A and polyester filament B
The difference in the weight reduction rate between and is a necessary condition from the viewpoint of imparting excellent dryness, elasticity and resilience together with a soft dry touch. The alkali weight reduction rate of the polyester ultrafine filament A is preferably 1.1 to 70 times, and more preferably 1.5 to 40 times that of the polyester filament B.

Next, another polyester filament B
Is required to have a monofilament fineness of 3 to 15 denier from the viewpoint of imparting swelling, firmness, elasticity and resilience to the woven fabric. More preferably, it is 3 to 8 denier. Like the polyester ultrafine filament A, the polyester filament B is preferably made of polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit content of 80 mol% or more. Further, a polyester obtained by adding or copolymerizing isophthalic acid, polyalkylene glycol, sulfoisophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, or the like to the polyester component may be used.

The polyester filament B preferably has a larger birefringence Δn than the polyester ultrafine filament A, and specifically, it is preferably a drawn yarn obtained by a usual drawing method. Further, it is preferable that the polyester filament B has a boiling water shrinkage higher than that of the polyester ultrafine filament A, from the viewpoint of providing an excellent bulge. Specifically, in order to obtain a swelling feeling, the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the polyester filler B is 7 to 25.
%, More preferably 10 to 20%. Furthermore, polyester ultrafine filament A
The difference between the boiling water shrinkage of polyester filament B and that of polyester filament B is SwD
_B (%), when the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester superfine filaments A and _{SwD A (%), ΔSw =} SwD B -S
It is preferable that wD _{A is} in the range of 5 ≦ ΔSw (%) ≦ 23.

The polyester filament B may be a type of yarn such as side-by-side type conjugate yarn or core / sheath type conjugate yarn having different polymer components, which shrinks while boiling water shrinkage develops crimps in the fiber.

The boiling water shrinkage referred to here is the JIS L
1073 "Synthetic fiber filament yarn test method" Shrinkage A method (cask shrinkage).

Further, in order to obtain a woven fabric excellent in bulging, firmness, elasticity and resilience with a soft and dry touch, the yarn structure of the composite processed yarn composed of the polyester ultrafine filament A and the polyester filament B is important.

That is, what is important as the yarn structure of the composite processed yarn is a yarn in which a part of the polyester ultrafine filament A is dispersed between the single filaments of the polyester filament B and has a real twist. The other part has a curved loop shape mainly in the direction of actual twist in the surface layer of the composite textured yarn.

With this yarn structure, a soft and dry touch and a feeling of swelling are obtained by the curved loop-shaped portion of the surface layer of the polyester ultrafine filament. Further, the excellent elasticity, elasticity and resilience of the woven fabric of the present invention are due to the presence of the polyester filament B of the composite processed yarn and the polyester filament B.
It is obtained by a structure in which a part of the polyester ultrafine filaments A is dispersed and located between the single fibers.

This yarn structure is considered to be obtained by forming voids due to the difference in the weight reduction rate between the polyester ultrafine filament A and the polyester filament B and reducing the friction between the single fibers in the alkali weight reduction step performed in the dyeing and processing step of the woven fabric. It is considered that, compared with the conventional core-sheath composite structure having an aggregate structure formed by bundling the extra-thick fibers of the core part, it exhibits an extremely superior effect.

Further, the effect of the yarn structure which is excellent in elasticity, resilience and resilience is also superior to the conventional one in that it is excellent in drapability. When the conventional thick fiber aggregates are bundled and located at the core of the composite yarn, it gives a bulging feeling with a core, and when it is made into a garment, the core has a protruding elastic silhouette, whereas this book The woven fabric of the present invention has a swelling feeling without a core, and the silhouette in the garment does not have a structure in which the core protrudes, so that an elegant drape-like finish is obtained. This effect is indicated as having an excellent effect by having a "taste" that is commonly expressed in the art.

It is preferable that a part of the polyester ultrafine filament A is cut and has a fluffy shape in order to give a span-like expression. In order to cut a part of the polyester ultrafine filament A into a fluffy shape, a buffing process or the like may be performed when forming the woven fabric.

The woven fabric of the present invention can be obtained by using the above-mentioned composite processed yarn for either one or both of the warp yarn and the weft yarn and making it into a woven fabric by a conventional weaving method. The woven fabric is not particularly limited.

[0025]

【Example】

[Example 1] 125 denier obtained by spinning polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.63 as polyester ultrafine filament A at 2800 m / min.
A 144-filament semi-stretched yarn (containing 0.25% by weight of titanium oxide) was stretched at a draw ratio of 1.2 times through a hot pin heated to 80 ° C. provided between two pairs of stretching rollers, and the following normal temperature roller was used. A heat-shrinkable multi-filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20%, which is heat-set at a heater installed in front of 110 ° C. and is made of a polyester obtained by copolymerizing an ethylene terephthalate component with isophthalic acid as a polyester filament B from another creel ( 75 denier-12 filament, which does not contain titanium oxide) is guided to an interlace nozzle installed between a feed roller and a delivery roller, and the polyester ultrafine filament A is simultaneously supplied to obtain 0 at 3.5 k / cm ² pressure. The fluid treatment was carried out using 0.8 mmφ × 2 holes.

The shrinkage rate of boiling water of the obtained composite yarn is 17.8%.
Met. Further, the difference ΔSw in boiling water shrinkage between the polyester filament B and the polyester ultrafine filament A was 16.5%. Murata # 308 using this composite yarn
A double twister was used to apply a twisting yarn having an additional twist of 1400 T / MS and Z, and a 2/2 Nanako design was woven in a water jet room with a warp density of 131 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 75 yarns / 2.54 cm.

This greige machine is subjected to normal liquid flow relaxation, dry heat intermediate setting, liquid flow alkali reduction, 130 ° C. dyeing, 160 ° C.
It was carried out in the process of dry heat finishing set. Alkali weight loss is 25
%. Finishing density is 183 warps / 2.54c
m, 109 wefts / 2.54 cm. The obtained woven fabric has a very soft dry touch, has an excellent bulge, and has excellent elasticity, resilience and resilience, and has a “taste”.
It was excellent in feeling and drape. As a result of observing a number of warp cross sections of the warp in the cross section of the fabric with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., the polyester ultrafine filament A was bent in a loop shape on the surface layer, and the polyester filament B was also arranged.
A part of the polyester ultrafine filament A was dispersed and arranged between the single fibers, and there were many portions having a void structure between the fibers.

Comparative Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.63 was obtained by a conventional spin-drawing method. Strength 4.9 g / d, elongation 43%, boiling water shrinkage 7.8%. Ultrafine filament yarn 60 denier-14
As in Example 1, using 4 filaments (containing 0.25% by weight of titanium oxide), and other filaments of 30 denier-6 filament having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 13.5% (containing no titanium oxide). Interlaced nozzles were used to make entangled yarn.

The resulting composite yarn was twisted with Murata # 308 at an additional twist number of 1000 T / M to obtain a warp density of 99 yarns /
A plain weave having a weft density of 2.54 cm and 79 wefts / 2.54 cm was woven.

The obtained greige was dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to have a warp density of 130 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 10
Finished with 2 pieces / 2.54 cm.

The obtained woven fabric had a soft texture of ultra-fine filament, but had a peach-like touch with a unique slimy feel, and had firmness, resilience, and repulsion, but was firm with a core. Met.

[0032]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION The woven fabric of the present invention can eliminate the drawbacks of the conventional woven fabric such as a hard texture with a core, and can provide a woven fabric which is soft and dry and which is excellent in swelling, elasticity, resilience and resilience.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a composite processed yarn having a real twist, comprising a polyester ultrafine filament A having a monofilament fineness of 0.1 to 1 denier and a polyester filament B having a monofilament fineness of 3 to 15 denier, wherein: The polyester ultrafine filament A is a semi-drawn yarn, and in the composite processed yarn, a part of the polyester ultrafine filament A is dispersed between the single fibers of the polyester filament B, and the polyester ultrafine filament A is
The other part of the woven fabric has a curved loop shape mainly in the real twist direction in the surface layer of the composite processed yarn. 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein a part of the polyester ultra-fine multifilament A is cut to have a fluffy shape. 3. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester ultrafine filament A has a birefringence Δn of 35 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ .