JPH07118989A - Combined multifilament knitted fabric having fluff - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a knitted fabric having silky appearance and soft, excellent touch feel, with moderate mechanical strength and cool feeling even if being thin, comprised of combined multifilament yarns composed of cellulose-based man-made fibers and synthetic fibers having fluffs respectively. CONSTITUTION:The combined multifilament knitted fabric having fluffs has the following characteristics: (1) the combined multifilament yarns having fluffs are composed of thermoplastic synthetic fiber and cellulose-based man-made fiber multifilament yarns, (2) the outer layer of the combined multifilament yarns consists of the cellulose-based man-made fiber multifilament yarns having more fluffs than the inner layer, (3) the inner layer consists of the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarns with fewer fluffs, (4) the outer layer accounts for 20-80wt.% of the whole combined multifilament yarns, and (5) fluffs >=0.1mm in length are present at a frequency of >=10/cm along the longer direction of the combined multifilament yarns.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention is suitable for use in clothing such as dresses, blouses, jackets, jackets, jackets, jackets, coats, blousons and inners, and has hygroscopicity, drapability and dry touch. A composite multifilament yarn having fluff in which inner and outer layers of the composite multifilament yarn and the cellulose artificial fiber multifilament yarn, which are also excellent in other practical performance, are mixed in the inner and outer layers, respectively. The present invention relates to a woven and knitted fabric which is constructed.

[0002]

2. Description of the Prior Art Multifilament yarns made of cellulosic artificial fibers such as rayon, kyupra, and acetate are highly moisture-absorbent, cool and have a high specific gravity.
It is rich in elasticity, but on the other hand, it is inferior in flexibility, and it is strong and strong. Furthermore, it is extremely difficult to prepare a thin woven or knitted fabric with only those artificial fibers because of its low strength, particularly, the extremely low wet strength. In addition, since it is not possible to expect a large shrinkage ratio like that of polyester fiber due to its properties as a cellulose type and artificial fiber, it is difficult to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a soft texture with a bulge. Further, conventionally, as a method of imparting a bulge to the above woven or knitted cellulose-based artificial fiber, there is a method of using a mixed fiber of a cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament yarn and a highly shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn. Although the method of using the mixed fiber is an effective method for imparting a bulge to the woven or knitted material, in order to impart a soft texture, for example, when the alkali weight reduction processing is further performed, the cellulose-based artificial fiber is used. Since the multifilament yarn is partially dissolved in alkali, a dyeing difference occurs, resulting in a marked loss of levelness.

Therefore, when the above-mentioned mixed yarn is used, it is difficult to obtain a woven or knitted fabric such as a josette which is flexible and has a good drapeability. Recently, a synthetic fiber alone has been fluffed (JP-A-4-240237) or a composite yarn containing only synthetic fibers has been false-twisted (JP-A-4-185732). Although a method for producing a fluff yarn has been proposed, there is an advantage that it is easy to obtain a thin woven fabric only with synthetic fibers, but since the strength is large, the fluff easily becomes a loop shape, and a spanlike fluff is obtained. It is difficult to obtain a woven or knitted fabric.

[0004]

As a conventional means for softening fibers for woven and knitted fabrics, there is a mixed spun yarn of cellulosic artificial fibers and thermoplastic synthetic fibers, and the mixed spun yarn has a lot of fluffs and yarn unevenness. There are many problems, such as lack of stiffness, lack of drape, and low strength. In addition, although the composite yarn obtained by mixing spun yarn and multifilament yarn, intertwisting, etc. has higher strength and homogeneity than the mixed yarn, the manufacturing cost is high due to the manufacturing method, and since spun yarn is used, uneven yarn Occurrence is unavoidable, which makes it difficult to obtain a silky appearance and texture. Further, in order to give a soft touch to the woven or knitted fabric, when the woven or knitted fabric is raised, the strength of the woven or knitted fabric of the thin fabric is lowered and the practical performance is remarkably inferior. It is remarkable.
There is also a method in which a woven or knitted material of cellulosic multifilament yarn is subjected to a rubbing treatment for a long time, for example, for 5 to 10 hours, and the surface of the fabric is fibrillated, but in this case, there is difficulty in passing through the process, There is also a problem that the product lacks homogeneity. The present invention solves the above-mentioned various problems, has a silky appearance and an excellent soft texture, and has fluff having sufficient practical performance even with a thin woven or knitted fabric having a strong and cool feeling. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric composed of a composite multifilament yarn of cellulose-based artificial fibers and synthetic fibers.

[0005]

The first aspect of the present invention is cellulosics.
A synthetic multifilament having fluffs is constituted by a synthetic artificial fiber multifilament yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and the outer layer portion of the composite multifilament yarn has more fluffs than the inner layer portion.
A woven or knitted fabric having fluff, characterized in that it is made of a multi-filament yarn made of artificial synthetic fibers, and the inner layer part is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multi-filament yarn having less fluff than the outer layer part, the second of which is the outer layer part. The mixing ratio of artificial fiber multifilament yarn is 2 of the whole composite multifilament yarn.
A first invention constituted by a composite multifilament yarn having 0 to 80% by weight and fluff having a length of 0.1 mm or more in total in the length direction at least 10 fluff / cm with respect to the composite multifilament yarn. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted composite multifilament yarn having the described fluff.

The composite multifilament yarn used in the present invention and the structure of the obtained woven or knitted fabric will be described in more detail. About fluff yarn. (a) Synthetic fiber multifilament yarn such as polyester, polyamide and acrylic is used for the inner layer. Boiling water shrinkage (S) of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention when wet
HW) is 5 to 60%, and the denier (d) of the multifilament yarn is 20 to 150d. The denier (d) of the single yarn is 5 to 0.05 d, preferably 3 to 0.5 d. In particular, a high shrinkage multifilament yarn with SHW ≧ 15% or a multifilament yarn subjected to twisting after crimping is suitable. Furthermore, polyester multifilament yarn is preferable in terms of physical properties. Polyester multi-filament yarn (P
The abbreviated name of ET) is not only a multifilament of polyethylene terephthalate but also a copolymerized PET of polyethylene terephthalate and 15 mol% or less of isophthalic acid or 5 mol% or less of sulfonic acid. Copolymerized PET may be used. There are no particular restrictions on the cross-sectional shape of these synthetic fibers and additives such as TiO ₂ . Further, a laminated composite fiber (0.01 to 0.5 d / f after division) of polyester fiber and polyamide fiber may be used.

(B) Cellulosic artificial fiber multifilament yarn, for example, (di, tri) -acetate, ordinary rayon, kyupura or polynodic fiber is used in the outer layer portion. The cellulosic multifilament yarn has a denier of 20 to 150 d, and a single yarn denier of 5 to 0.7 d / f.
It is preferably 0.7 to 2 d / f, and a woven or knitted fabric with a fine delicate appearance and touch is obtained. Cross-sectional shape of those artificial fibers, SH
There are no particular restrictions on the additives such as W and TiO ₂ .

(C) The mixing ratio is 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 35 to 70% by weight, based on the total amount of the cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament yarn. 20% by weight
If it is less than 80% by weight, the nap effect is low, and if it exceeds 80% by weight, the tenacity is reduced, and the finer the denier is, the greater the reduction rate of tenacity becomes.

(D) Denier (d) of fluff yarn is 50 to 30
It is 0d, preferably 70 to 200d. If it is less than 50 d, the strength becomes low, and if it exceeds 300 d, when it is made into a woven or knitted material, the fabric becomes thick and both are not preferable as a woven or knitted material.

(E) Regarding the number of fluffs, fluffs having a length of 0.1 mm or more must be 10 pieces / cm or more in the length direction, preferably 50 pieces / cm or more, and more preferably 80 pieces / cm. cm or more is required. If it is less than 10 / cm, the nap effect as a fluff yarn is low. Regarding the distribution of the number of fluffs, the yarn composition is such that the cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament portion arranged in the outer layer portion occupies more than half. In addition to the above-mentioned fluff, fine loop-shaped yarns may be mixed together with the fluff.

A method for producing woolen yarn. A production example for producing the fluff yarn described above is as follows. (a) Different supply air confounding treatment method. Synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is arranged in the core yarn, and cellulosic artificial fiber multifilament yarn is arranged in the sheath yarn, and the overfeed rate (abbreviated as OF) is 5 to 15% in the case of the core yarn, and the sheath. In the case of yarn, it is 10 to 35%. The yarn speed is 150-350 m / min and the air pressure is 5-
10 kg / cm ^2, preferably a 6~8Kg / cm ^2. It is manufactured using a commercially available Taslan processing nozzle.

(B) Alignment air mixing treatment method. Synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and cellulosic artificial fiber multifilament yarn are aligned and mixed with a commercially available interlace nozzle. Thread FD 0.1 to 1%, thread speed 150 to 700
m / min, air pressure 3 to 6 kg / cm ² , preferably 4 to 5 kg
/ cm ² In this case, the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is preferably a high shrinkage type or a crimped type.

(C) An air-blended or aligned yarn of a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and a cellulosic artificial fiber multifilament yarn is false-twisted under the false-twisting condition on the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn side and tensioned. Below, fluff is applied to the multifilament yarn of the cellulosic artificial fiber. Further, there is also a method in which air entanglement treatment is performed after the preliminary combustion and before winding, and then fluff is applied.

(D) The fluff is imparted by bringing the mixed fiber yarn or the draw-plied twisted yarn into contact with a stationary or rotating grindstone-like scraping body. The above methods (a), (b), (c) and (d) may be carried out independently, and after carrying out the methods (a), (b) and (c), further
You may implement the method of (d). It is also possible to twist the obtained fluff yarn.

Weaving and knitting, dyeing method. (a) The fluff yarn is woven or knitted as a non-twisted yarn or a twisted yarn. (b) Woven fabrics are woven by applying sizing to warps as usual.
However, the twist coefficient in this case [denier × √ number of twists (times /
m)] is in the range of [1,000 to 7,400], weaving can be performed even with non-paste yarn. In the untwisted or sweet twisted, the cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament yarn swells and becomes a loop, and weaving with Water Jet Loom (abbreviated as WJL) is impossible. In the range of the twisting coefficient, since the converging property is good, weaving is possible even with WJL, and one of the features of the present invention is that the weaving range is expanded. In the case of the present invention, it is of course possible to weave using an Air Jet Loom. (c) The fluff yarn may be used alone or may be woven or knitted with other ordinary fibers. (d) The dyeing process may be ordinary scouring or relax dyeing, and no special process is required. When a high shrinkage type or a crimped synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is used as the fluff yarn, the napped portion having a more noticeable tip end portion by performing sufficient shrinkage treatment or crimp expression treatment. A so-called nap effect and a swelling effect are obtained. (e) When the fabric is thick, it may be further brushed according to the degree of thickness. (f) In addition, a raising machine or a jet dyeing machine equipped with a collision plate is used to improve the napping effect as described above, and further, a kneading treatment is carried out for about 1 to 2 hours with an ordinary jet dyeing machine. Good.

[0016]

The present invention focuses on the low strength, low elongation and low knot strength of the cellulosic multi-filament yarn, and is applied to physical impact forces such as high-speed fluid treatment, false twisting under high tension, and rubbing. Therefore, by using a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn as a reinforcing material or shrinkage-inducing material to induce the cutting of a single yarn, many cellulose-based multifilament yarns are formed on the surface layer of the yarn as a composite material. It is the technology that forms the basis of the present invention to be arranged yarn, therefore, unlike the case of only the synthetic fiber multi-filament yarn, the operation of fluffing the surface of the composite fiber is remarkably easy. This is a feature of the present invention. Furthermore, since most of the fluff yarns are made of cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament on the yarn surface, the yarn passing property in the twisting process and the weaving process is good. That is, in rubbing between the threads, between the threads, and between the threads and the metal, even if the fluffs of the threads are retired, the single threads are easily broken and the threads are separated from each other. Therefore, the composite multifilament yarn of the present invention is a synthetic fiber multifilament fluff yarn or loop which causes failure and poor opening.
It has properties that are completely different from that of fluff yarn, and is significantly superior in handleability as compared with fluff yarn that contains only synthetic fibers.
Further, the present invention comprises a multi-filament yarn of a cellulose-based artificial fiber whose surface layer has fluff. Since the inner layer is composed of multifilament yarn of synthetic fiber,
In terms of sweat absorption and touch, it is far superior to the conventional composite multifilament yarn having no fluff and synthetic fibers.

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples.

Example 1 As an artificial fiber, diacetate multifilament yarn (75d, 48f) was used as a sheath yarn, and
A bar-feed rate of 30%, polyester multi-filament yarn (75d, 72f) as a synthetic fiber was used as a core yarn and supplied at an OF of 7%, and a commercially available Taslan nozzle was used to supply air pressure of 8 kg / cm ² , winding. Processing was performed at a take-up speed of 250 m / min.
As a result, there were 93 fluffs or more of 0.1 mm or more in the length direction, and 90% or more of the fluff were composed of many fine diacetate loops. Spunlike fluff yarns (165d, 120f) were obtained. This composite yarn is a diacetate multifilament yarn 5
The composition was 5% by weight and 45% by weight of polyester multifilament yarn. 1 obtained by the above
1600 for multi-filament composite yarns of 65d and 120f
Twisting / m twisting, weaving a jewette of 80 warps / inch and 70 wefts / inch was subjected to ordinary scouring, graining and dyeing. As a result, a silky, spun-like jersey having a silky and uniform yarn shape, naps and bulges, and a rich drape and a refreshing feeling was obtained. At this time, there was no particular problem in the twisting property by the double twister (8,000 times / min), the settability against twisting, and the weaving property by the rapier (250 times / min), and the fabric was woven well.

[0018]

Comparative Example 1 100 polyester multifilament yarn
%, The sheath yarn has the same yarn configuration as the core yarn, and the processing conditions are the same as in Example 1. As a result, a spun-like yarn composed of fine loops was obtained without forming fluff yarn. Further, unlike Example 1, the releasability from the teeth was extremely poor, the twisting property and the passability in the weaving process were poor, and mass production was impossible. In addition, the finished products could only be inferior in commercial value due to the fairing.

[0019]

[Comparative Example 2] A gusset made of polyester multifilament yarns of 150d and 26f was napped. However, the uneven textured surface caused by wrinkles caused mottled naps, resulting in poor commercial value, and almost no napping effect. It was not there.

[0020]

Example 2 40d and 34f rayon multifilament yarns and copolymer PET containing 10 mol% of isophthalic acid were spun and cold drawn. SHW 53% polyester, 40
Air was mixed with d and 24f multifilament yarn under the following conditions to obtain silky fluff yarns 80d and 58f having 75 mm / cm or more of fluff of 0.1 mm or more in the longitudinal direction. Conditions OF + 0.6% Yarn speed 500m / min Air pressure 5Kg / cm ² Commercially available interlacer is used. The yarn obtained as described above is twisted 400 times / m and air jet trowel (AJL) is applied. It was used and spun at a rate of 500 times / min to finish into 98 warps / inch and 80 wefts / inch. After scouring, relax treatment and dyeing as usual, a woven fabric of 116 warps / inch and 102 wefts / inch was obtained. as a result,
A Fuji silk-like woven fabric was obtained which had a warm taste due to bulge and nap and was spun-like and drapeable. As a result of the measurement, the fabric had a tear strength [according to JIS 1096D method (Penjirum method)] of 980 g of warp and 910 g of weft, and was a thin raised fabric having excellent practical performance.

[0021]

[Comparative Example 3] 75d and 33f rayon taffetas were nap-treated, which resulted in a dry-tack napped product, but the tear strength was so low that it could not be measured, and it is much inferior to that of Example 2. It's a woven fabric.

[0022]

Comparative Example 4 An air-blended yarn was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that the air pressure was changed to 1.5 kg / cm ² . As a result, the number of fluffs of 0.1 mm or more was only 0.01 / cm or less, and the silky mixed yarn with few fluffs was obtained. The same woven fabric and processing as in Example 2 were applied, but unlike in Example 2, silky
When it was napped to obtain a spun-like appearance, a soft touch fabric similar to Comparative Example 3 was obtained, but the tear strength was 540 g of warp threads,
Since the weft yarn was 460 g and the tenacity was low, only inferior practical performance could be obtained.

[0023]

The effects of the present invention are summarized as follows. (1) The composite multifilament yarn of the present invention is a composite material in which a large amount of cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament yarn is arranged on the surface and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is used as a reinforcing material or shrinkage-expressing material on the inner surface. Therefore, unlike the case where only the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is used, fluffing is easy. Moreover, the sweat absorption and the touch are significantly superior to the conventional fluffless mixed fiber multifilament yarn. (2) Since both the artificial cellulose fiber and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber are multifilament yarns, the appearance as a woven and knitted fabric that is silky and uniform is obtained unlike spun yarns. (3) Since it has fluff, it is a soft touch even with a strong twist. (4) A woven or knitted fabric having a thin and lightweight fluff was obtained. (5) It feels good on the skin and feels good to wear. (6) Since it has better processability than other hair materials, the manufacturing process is smooth and the manufacturing is easy.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A composite multifilament yarn having fluff is constituted by a cellulosic artificial fiber multifilament yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and the outer layer portion of the composite multifilament yarn is more than the inner layer portion. A composite multifilament woven or knitted fabric having fluff, characterized in that it is composed of a cellulose-based artificial fiber multifilament yarn having fluff, and an inner layer part is made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn having less fluff than the outer layer part. 2. The mixing ratio of the artificial fiber multifilament yarn in the outer layer portion is 20 to 80 of the whole composite multifilament yarn.
% By weight, and fluff having a length of 0.1 mm or more is at least 1 in total in the length direction with respect to the composite multifilament yarn.
The fluffed composite multifilament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is constituted by a composite multifilament yarn having 0 yarns / cm.