JPH0726337B2 - Stone-washed processing method of coated silk woven knit - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a stone wash-like processing method of a coated product of silk woven or knitted fabric, and more specifically, a novel appearance without rope-like wrinkles and rubbing-like spots. The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like outer material having a texture and having wind resistance and water resistance.

(Conventional Technology and Problems) Conventionally, stone-wash finishing having a feeling of being washed and worn out of natural cotton has been performed by hitting a cloth with a stone, a stick or the like. This method does not cause wrinkles and gives a very natural texture, but it has a problem that it cannot be mass-produced industrially.

Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, industrially, stone wash finishing has been performed by rubbing the cloth with a jet dyeing machine, winks, rotary washers and the like.
In particular, the rotary washer has been generally adopted because it has a natural feeling due to the rubbing effect in a tensionless state. Processing with this rotary washer is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate,
It is widely applied to materials such as rayon, but when it is applied to high-grade products such as silk woven and knitted products, rope-shaped wrinkles and rubbing spots are conspicuous, and there is a problem that only products with low commercial value can be made. It was

As a solution to this, JP-A-56-79761 discloses a method of using steam instead of hot water as a heat medium of a rotary washer, and JP-A-58-169564 discloses that a woven fabric is wound in an andon. There is a method proposed in which the rotary washer process is performed with a plurality of places on both ears of which are thread-bound, and a cushioning body having elasticity is positioned inside the Andon winding. When the method is applied, there is a problem in that rubbing-shaped spots are generated due to the property of the silk woven or knitted fabric to be easily fibrillated.

The present invention has been made as a solution to the above problems in the case of performing a stone wash finish of a silk knitted fabric with a rotary washer, and has a napped state in which wrinkles are uniform and rubbed without spots, and a repulsion feeling is also provided. Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for finishing a stone-washed silk woven or knitted product, which is a coated product having windproof property, water resistance, and soft texture peculiar to silk.

(Means for Solving Problems) The above-mentioned object is to subject the silk-woven or knitted fabric to water-repellent treatment as a pretreatment, apply resin to one surface of the silk-woven or knitted fabric, and then tack the silk-woven or knitted fabric. Is packed in a bag, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried with a tumbler drier, which is achieved by a method of stonewashing a coated silk-woven or knitted fabric.

Further, the present invention will be described in detail.

The silk woven or knitted fabric in the method of the present invention includes raw yarn or silk spun yarn alone, or woven fabrics and knitted fabrics obtained by blending or other natural fibers and synthetic fibers thereof, or interwoven, warp yarns constituting these fiber structures, The count and density of the weft yarn are not particularly limited as long as the structure is not disturbed by the rotary washer processing. The composition ratio of silk in the silk woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable in order to obtain a soft texture peculiar to silk. Then, the silk woven or knitted fabric is subjected to pretreatment such as desizing, scouring, dyeing and the like by a known method.

In the method of the present invention, the water repellent as the pretreatment suppresses the permeation of the resin into the fibers when the resin is applied on one side, and further does not cure the fibers themselves, and further impairs the adhesiveness of the applied resin. It is not particularly limited as long as it does not exist, but usually, natural wax and its derivatives, synthetic wax which is a solid ester composed of higher fatty acid and higher alcohol, polyolefin compound, cationic amine compound, fluorine-containing acrylic resin, etc. Emulsion type water repellent is used,
The amount used is preferably 0.3 to 7.0% by weight based on the weight of the silk woven fabric.
In addition, a softening agent and a dye fixing agent may be added, if necessary, so long as they do not impair the above-mentioned object during the processing. When applying the water repellent to the above silk woven or knitted fabric, a usual pad device is used and drying is performed according to a conventional method.

In the method of the present invention, as the resin to be applied on one side, acrylic, urethane, epoxy, polyester,
Examples thereof include emulsions or organic solvent solutions of homopolymers such as natural polymers and homopolymers or blends of compounds such as polymers that are resinified. Also, when applying,
This is applied by appropriately thickening it with a thickener or thinning it with dilution. At the time of application, it is not particularly limited as long as it is an apparatus capable of uniformly applying the resin to one surface of the silk woven or knitted material, but usually a knife coater, a gravure coater,
An air knife coater or the like is used, and after coating, it is dried or cured if necessary according to a conventional method.

Furthermore, if necessary for improving the water resistance and water repellency, a conventional pad device may be used after the above-mentioned treatment by using an emulsion-type water repellent agent such as silicon-based dimethylpolysilosican and its derivatives, and a fluorine-containing acrylic compound alone or in combination. It is applied and dried according to a conventional method, followed by curing and post-water repellent treatment. In the processing, a resin such as glyoxal resin and melamine resin, a catalyst thereof and a penetrant can be used together in order to more effectively carry out the above purpose.

The tacking method referred to in the method of the present invention may be a method in which a silk woven or knitted fabric is divided by stitches, folded into two pieces with a width fragrance as an axis, and then the ears are loosely bound with a thread. Hanging around,
A method of loosely binding the ears with a thread may be used.

The bag used for bagging in the method of the present invention may be made of a material such as polyester, nylon or hemp, but it is preferably a poyester net which is less likely to rub against a silk woven fabric.

The processing conditions of the rotary washer used in the method of the present invention are as follows: rotation speed 25 to 45 rotations / minute, bath ratio 1:50 to 1: 300, setting temperature 50 to 100 ° C. and setting time 5 to 90 minutes. More preferably, the number of revolutions is 30 to 40 revolutions / minute, the bath ratio is 1: 100 to 1: 200, the set temperature is 50 to 60 ° C., and the set time is 30 to 60 minutes. If it is out of the range of the above treatment conditions, wrinkles may become uneven, and defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Further, if it is desired to emphasize the stone wash tone, it is preferable to put pebbles, pumice stones, pachinko balls, etc. in the rotary washer.

(Operation) In the present invention, since the resin is applied to one side of the silk woven or knitted fabric before the rubbing process, the resin acts as a protective layer for the silk fiber bundle, and is further tacked and bagged. The impact force of the hot water on the fiber bundle can be weakened.
Therefore, excessive fibrillation of the silk woven fabric is prevented,
As a result, a high quality product free of rope wrinkles and rubbing shapes can be obtained.

(Example) Next, the method of this invention is demonstrated concretely by an Example.
As shown in Table 1, five kinds of silk fabrics were desizing, scouring and dyeing according to a conventional method.

Example 1 5% by weight of a fatty acid amide type water repellent (manufactured by Sand Co., Ltd., Celol EWL, solid content: 20%) in a padding device, a dye fixing agent (manufactured by Ciba Geigy, Inc., Chinofix)
EW) 1% by weight, the remaining part was 100% water to give a working fluid with a pickup rate of 60%, and dried at 130 ° C for 30 seconds in an infrared dryer.

Next, after applying a coating resin solution having the following composition at 25 g / m ² with a knife coater type coating device,
It was dried at 140 ° C for 20 seconds with a tenter type dryer.

Boncoat ES225 (Dainippon Ink Co., Ltd., acrylic emulsion) 100 parts Boncoat 3750 (Dainippon Ink Co., Ltd., polyacrylic acid-based thickener) 3 parts 25% ammonia water viscosity 19000cps (BM type viscometer) 0.2 With a padding device, a fluorine-based water repellent (Miki Riken Industry Co., Ltd., Pararesin FGX / K) 7% by weight, polyethylene softener (Kanebo NSC Co., Ltd., Iodosol P)
E400) 2% by weight, isopropyl alcohol 3% by weight as a penetrant, and 100% water as the balance of the working fluid with a pick-up rate of 65%.
It was dried for 0 seconds. After that, at the curing device, 150 ℃ × 3
A dry heat treatment was performed for a minute.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided into seams, folded in two with the coating surface inward with the width direction as the axis, and the ears were loosely bound at intervals of 10 cm with a thread. Then, the tacked silk fabric was put into a polyester net and put into a rotary washer. The processing condition of the rotary washer is 30 rotations /
Min, bath ratio 1: 100, temperature 60 ° C., time 30 minutes, and kneading was performed therein. Then, the silk fabric was dried with a tumbler dryer.

Example 2 Using a putting device, 7% by weight of a fluorine-based water repellent (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumifuru Oil E21, solid content 17%), dye fixing agent (Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd., Suprafix EW) ) 1% by weight, polyethylene-based softener (Kanebo NSC Co., Ltd., Iodozol PE400) 2% by weight, and the remaining amount of 100% water was added to the working fluid at a pick-up rate of 60%, and then dried with an infrared ray dryer. And dried at 130 ° C for 30 seconds. Further, after that, a dry heat treatment was performed at 150 ° C. for 3 minutes with a curing device.

Next, with a knife coater type coating device, after applying a coating resin liquid having the following composition at 30 g / m ² ,
It was dried at 140 ° C for 15 seconds by a tenter type dryer.

CRISCOAT P-1018 (Dai Nippon Ink Co., Ltd., acrylic,
Toluene solvent) 100 parts CRISVON CL-3 (Dainippon Ink & Co., Inc., cross-linking agent, toluene solvent) 3 parts Viscosity 32000cps (BM viscometer) Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent has been added is divided by seams, Example 1
The same tacking was performed, put into a polyester net, and put into a rotary washer. The treatment conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and rubbing was performed therein, and then the silk fabric was dried in a tumbler dryer.

Comparative Example 1 As in Example 1, water-repellent treatment, coating and post-water repellent treatment were performed.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seams, put into a polyester net without tacking, and put into a rotary washer. The processing conditions of the rotary washer are the same as in Example 1, and kneading is performed therein.
Then, the silk fabric was dried with a tumbler dryer.

Comparative Example 2 As in Example 2, water-repellent treatment, coating and post-water repellent treatment were performed.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seams, put into a polyester net without tacking, and put into a rotary washer. The processing conditions of the rotary washer are the same as in Example 1, and kneading is performed therein.
Then, the silk fabric was dried with a tumbler dryer.

Comparative Example 3 Similar to Example 1, the water-repellent finish and the post-water repellent finish were performed.
Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seams, and Example 1 was used.
The same tacking was performed, put into a polyester net, and put into a rotary washer. The treatment conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and rubbing was performed therein, and then the silk fabric was dried in a tumbler dryer.

The stonewash-like repellent finished product thus obtained was evaluated as follows.

The appearance was judged by visual observation by 10 professional inspectors. The judgment criteria are as follows.

◯: Excellent wrinkle uniformity and no rubbed spots.

Δ: The wrinkle uniformity is slightly inferior, and there are some rubbing-shaped spots.

X: The wrinkle is inferior in uniformity, and there are rub-shaped spots.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 2.

As is clear from Table 2, after coating, tanking, bagging, rubbing with a rotary washer, and drying with a tumbler dryer, the product has excellent wrinkle uniformity and rubbing-shaped spots. There is no such thing.

In addition, wind resistance was tested for air permeability, and water resistance was tested for water pressure by the following methods. The test results are shown in Table 3.

1) Air permeability JIS L-1079 Frazier type tester 2) Water pressure resistance JIS L-1079A method-a As is clear from Table 3, it is understood that the coating is more excellent in windproof performance and water resistance.

(Effects of the Invention) As described in detail above, the method of the present invention has the following effects.

That is, by coating a resin on one side of a woven or knitted silk fiber, then tacking or washering it, the wrinkle is uniform, and there is no unevenness in the rubbing shape. It is possible to obtain a stone-wash-like silk product having a silk-specific texture.

Its texture and appearance are completely new, and it has the rough appeal of being washed away.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A silk woven fabric is subjected to water-repellent treatment as a pretreatment, a resin is applied to one surface of the silk woven fabric, and then the tacked silk woven fabric is packed in a bag and kneaded with a rotary washer. And then drying with a tumbler dryer. A method of stonewashing a coated silk woven or knitted fabric.