JPH0345775A - Processing of woven or knit fabric in stone wash tone having stereo pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain woven fabric or knitted fabric processed in stone wash tone having a three-dimensional feeling by tucking woven fabric or knit fabric which is printed with a resin at least on one side and provided with a finishing agent, packing into a bag, subjecting to rubbing processing and drying by a tumbler. CONSTITUTION:Woven fabric or knit fabric is printed with a resin at least on one side and provided with a finishing agent. Then the woven fabric or knit fabric is tucked, packed into a bag, subjected to rubbing processing by a rotary washer and dried by a tumbler dryer. A textile softener (preferably cationic softener), a silicone-based feeling adjuster (e.g. aminosilicone) and optionally a resin are used as the finishing agent, the amount of the textile softener is 0.2-1.5wt.% based on weight of the woven fabric or knit fabric and the amount of the feeling adjuster is properly 0.1-1.0wt.%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a stonewash-like processing method that has a three-dimensional pattern on a textured knitted material, and more specifically, it relates to a stonewash-like processing method that has a three-dimensional pattern on a textured knitted material, and more particularly, it relates to a stonewash-like processing method that has a three-dimensional pattern on a textured knitted material. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a stonewashed X-like processed product having a three-dimensional pattern of textured knitted fabric having a new appearance and texture with a three-dimensional uneven pattern shown by a raised part and a non-raised part of a resin-printed part.

(Prior Art and Problems) Conventionally, the stonewashed finish that gives natural cotton a washed-out and worn-in feel has been achieved by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. Although this method does not cause wrinkles and provides a very natural texture, it has the problem that it cannot be industrially mass-produced.

Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, industrially, a stone-washed finish has been achieved by rubbing the fabric with a jet dyer, a wince, a rotary washer, etc. In particular, the rotary washer has been used for boat fishing because it produces a natural-looking finish by creating a massaging effect without tension. Processing using a rotary washer is widely applied to materials such as cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate, and rayon, but when applied to high-quality products such as textured knitted fabrics, rope-like wrinkles, scratch-shaped spots, etc. The problem was that only products that were conspicuous and had low commercial value could be produced.

To solve this problem, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-79781 discloses a method of using steam instead of hot water as a heat medium for a rotary washer.
Publication No. 584 proposes a method in which a fabric is wrapped in a back-and-over winding, stitched at several places on both edges, and then processed with a rotary washer while an elastic buffer is placed inside the back-and-over winding. However, when these methods are applied to tissue-knitted fabrics, there is a problem in that scratch-shaped spots occur due to the tendency of the tissue-knitted fabrics to form fibrils.

In addition, as a processing method for three-dimensionally adding raised and non-raised parts to a fiber structure, conventional methods have been used, such as resin printing followed by raising processing, or raising processing followed by resin printing. . However, in the method of performing resin printing before raising, as the non-resin printed area is raised, the resin printed area is also raised at the same time.
In addition, in the method of performing resin printing after raising, since the fluff is suppressed in the resin printed area in the raised state, there is little difference between the raised and non-raised parts, resulting in insufficient three-dimensionality.

In addition, instead of raising the nap, hitting the fabric with a stone or stick has been used as a means of raising the nap, but this method also lacks the three-dimensional effect and has low productivity, making it difficult to produce a stable product. The disadvantage is that it cannot be used.

The present invention was made to solve the above-mentioned problems when performing a stonewash finish with a three-dimensional pattern on a textured knitted fabric using a rotary washer.
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a finishing method for a stonewashed silk woven product with uniform wrinkles and a clear contrast between the raised part without uneven scratches and the non-raised part of the resin-printed part and excellent three-dimensional effect. It is.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The above purpose is to print a resin on at least one side of a textured knitted fabric, apply a finishing agent, and then pack the tacked textured knitted fabric into a bag and rub it with a rotary washer. This is achieved by a stonewash-like processing method that has a three-dimensional pattern of textured knitted fabric, which is characterized by drying in a tumble dryer after processing.

Further, the present invention will be described in detail.

The textured knitted fabric as used in the method of the present invention includes woven fabrics and knitted fabrics made of raw silk or spun silk alone, or blended or interwoven with these and other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and warp and weft yarns constituting these fiber structures. The size and density of the material are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue seeding when processed with a rotary washer.

Further, the composition ratio of silk in the textured knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain the soft feel peculiar to silk, a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable. Then, the textured knitted fabric is subjected to processing such as desizing, scouring, dyeing, fixing, etc. using known methods.

Printing resins that can be used in the method of the present invention include cellulose-reactive resins, condensation resins, emulsions of synthetic polymers, natural polymers and their crosslinking agents, emulsions of fluorine-based water repellents, and silicone-based water repellents. Emulgene agents, heat-reactive water-soluble urethanes, etc. can be mentioned, and these can be used singly or in combination of two or more.

Examples of cellulose-reactive resins include dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea, dimethylol dimethoxyethylene urea,
Examples of dimethylolpropylene urea and condensation type resins include trimethylolmelamine and hexamethylolmelamine.

Emulsions of synthetic polymers include emulsions of acrylic or methacrylic compounds obtained by emulsion polymerization of one or more monomers containing one or more vinyl groups, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, and methyl methacrylate. acrylate, ethyl acrylate,
Ethyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, acrylonitrile, acrylamide, N
- Emulsions of emulsion polymers such as methylol acrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxybutyl acrylate, polyalkylene alone or two
Emulsions of polymers consisting of polyethylene, polypropylene resins, emulsions of polyester resins consisting of polyhydric alcohols and polybasic acids, such as ethylene glycol 1,4-methanediol, 1,8-hexane as the polyhydric alcohols. Emulgene is a polyester resin consisting of diol, diethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane and polybasic acids such as phthalic acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, trimellitic acid, and terephthalic acid, and Emulgene is a polyurethane resin consisting of diisocyanate and polyol, such as hexane as a diisocyanate. Methylene diisocyanate, xylene diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, 4
．． Synthetic polymer emulgenes such as emulgenes of polyurethane resins consisting of 4-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,8-naphthalene diisocyanate and polyols such as polyethylene adipate, polypropylene adipate, polybutylene adipate, polyethylene phthalate, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, and polyethylene propylene glycol. is exemplified.

Examples of natural polymers and crosslinking agents include water-soluble natural polymers such as starch, carboxymethylated starch, carboxydiethylated starch, hydroxyethylated starch, and natural polymer rubbers such as guar gum and tamarind gum. water-soluble heat-reactive urethane with blocked isocyanate groups as a crosslinking agent, commercially available product names include Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku's Elastron MF-8, Elastron W-11 and Bayer's Sinterpret BAP, and alkylene Water-soluble dicrycidyl ether derivatives such as glycol dicrycidyl ether and polyalkylene gellicidyl ether, commercially available product names include Epolite 200 E and Epolite 4001 from Kyoeisha Yuki Kagaku Kogyo. Examples include Epolite 400P and aminoplast resins such as trimethylolmelamine and hexamethylolmelamine.

Emulgene, a silicone water repellent, is dimethylhydrodienepolysiloxane, Emulgene, a fluorine water repellent, is a fluorine-containing acrylic resin, heat-reactive water-soluble urethane is sodium bisulfite, acetylacetone,
Reacts with isocyanate groups such as ethyl acetoacetate and diethyl malonate.

Examples include compounds containing at least one blocked isocyanate group in the molecule, which temporarily forms a stable compound A, which is then thermally dissociated by heat treatment to regenerate the isocyanate group.

These resins may be used alone or in combination, and adjusted to a viscosity suitable for printing using emulgene paste made of kerosene, water, and a surfactant, or a thickener such as alkali-thickened polyacrylic acid or polyalkylene glycol. It will be stamped. When printing the above-mentioned resin, printing and drying are performed using a normal printing device, and if necessary, airing is performed.

Furthermore, an organic or inorganic pigment may be used in combination with the printing resin, if necessary. Here, examples of organic or inorganic pigments include those obtained by grinding a pigment with an activator and dispersing the pigment in water in the form of fine particles, those obtained by dispersing the pigment with a resin having dispersion ability instead of a surfactant, Examples include those used in ordinary pigment printing, such as those using a crosslinked binder with improved dispersion ability by controlling the balance of hydrophilic and lipophilic groups in the resin and the molecular weight. The amount of pigment used is 0.01 to 100 parts of printing resin.
Use 10 copies.

In the method of the present invention, as finishing agents, softeners, silicone-based texture modifiers and, if necessary, resins are used. As the softener, cationic and nonionic softeners can be used, but cationic softeners with good adsorption to fibers are preferred, and the amount used is 0.2 to 1.6 based on the weight of the textured knitted fabric.
Good weight percentage. As the silicone-based hand control agent used in combination with the softener, aminosilicon is preferred, and the amount used is preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight based on the weight of the textured knitted fabric.

In addition, in the case of textured knitted fabrics using raw silk, wrinkles are likely to occur due to large fibrillation during processing with a rotary washer, so it is preferable to use a resin in addition to a cationic softener and amino silicone. As the resin, glyoxal type, melanin type, ethylene urea type, uron type, etc. can be used, but glyoxal type resin is preferable from the viewpoint of texture, and the amount used is o, e to 2.0% by weight based on the weight of the textured knitted fabric. Good. When applying a finishing agent to the above-mentioned tissue knitted fabric, a conventional pad device is used and drying is performed according to a conventional method, and when a resin is used in combination, curing is performed.

The tucking method referred to in the method of the present invention may be a method in which the silk 911 material is divided at the seam, folded into two pieces with the width direction as an axis, and then the edges are loosely bound with thread, or the method is similar to hanging lines and 8 dyeing. It is also possible to hang the paper by wrapping it or loosely binding the edges with thread.

Materials such as polyester, nylon, and linen can be used for the bags used in the method of the present invention, but polyester nets are preferred because they are less abrasive to the knitted fabric.

The processing conditions for the rotary washer used in the method of the present invention are a rotation speed of 25 to 45 revolutions/min, and a bath ratio of 1:50 to 1:
30G, set temperature 50-100℃ and set time 5-9
A range of 0 minutes is preferable, and a range of a rotation speed of 50 to 40 revolutions/minute, a bath ratio of 1:100 to 1:200, a set temperature of 500 to 60°C, and a set time of 30 to 60 minutes is more preferable. If the above processing conditions are outside the range, wrinkles may become uneven or "Ia
Defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the knitted fabric.

Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the stonewashed look,
It is preferable to put pebbles, pumice stones, pachinko balls, etc. into the rotary washer.

(Function) In the present invention, before the rolling process, the resin is printed and then a finishing agent is applied, so the resin in the resin printed part is w11M! It acts as a protective layer for the fiber bundles, and the impact force of hot water on the fiber bundles during the rolling process does not act on the fiber bundles.
Fibrillation does not occur at all, and piloerection does not occur. On the other hand, in the non-resin printed area, the finishing agent acts as a weak protective layer for the fiber bundles, weakening the impact force on the fiber bundles during the rolling process, preventing excessive fibrillation of the silk rope, and resulting in a lobe. This results in a state of raised hair without wrinkles or chafing.

(Example) Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

As shown in Table fR1, four types of tissues were subjected to desizing, scouring, staining, and fixing treatments according to conventional methods.

Table 1 Example 1 Using a screen printing device on a fixed silk fabric, a polka dot pattern with a diameter of o, scm to 1.5 cm was printed with a resin using a 120 mesh screen according to the recipe shown below. Dry at 130℃ for 3G seconds according to the usual method, and then dry at 150℃ using a roller baking device.
Dry heat treatment was performed for 3 minutes.

Elastron TP18 100 parts (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku ■, heat-reactive water-soluble urethane) Elastron Catalyst 32 10 parts (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku ■, fatty acid metal salt catalyst) 6% sodium bicarbonate
6 parts (pH adjuster) Viscosity: 8800 Cps (BM type viscometer) Then, using a padding device, the silk fabric was treated with 6% by weight of a cationic softener (manufactured by Ichisha Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 29, solid content 20%). ,
Aminosilicon (manufactured by Osaka Kecal Co., Ltd., Texasilicon,
Solid content 12%) 5% by weight, antistatic agent (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nyrenone m2 G) 2% by weight, the balance 10% by water.
The processing liquid, which had been reduced to 0%, was applied to 60% of the fabric weight of the silk fabric, and the silk fabric was dried at 120° C. for 40 seconds using an infrared dryer.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent had been applied was divided at the seams, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and the edges were loosely bound with thread at intervals of 10 cm. Thereafter, the tacked silk fabric was placed in a polyester net and placed in a rotary washer. Processing conditions for the rotary washer are SO rotation/min, bath ratio t:t
The hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer at a temperature of 80°C.

Example 2 A leopard pattern (spots) was printed on a fix-treated silk fabric dyed yellow using an acid dye using a screen printing device.
After printing with a resin using the recipe shown below on a 120 mesh screen, drying at 130°C for 30 seconds according to the usual method, and then printing on a roller baking device for 18 seconds.
Dry heat treatment was performed at 0°C for 3 minutes.

Elastron TP28 80 parts (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku ■, heat-reactive water-soluble urethane) Elastron Catalyst 32 8 parts (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku ■, fatty acid metal salt catalyst) 5% sodium bicarbonate
6 parts (pH adjuster) RYUDYE W B Press OKB 10 parts (
Dainippon Ink ■, water-based pigment) RYUDYE W FIXER2g4 10 parts (
Pigment fixing agent manufactured by Dainippon Ink ■) After that, the silk fabric was coated with glyoxal resin (Sumitex Resin N manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) using a padding device.
8-19, solid content 45%) 5% by weight, metal salt catalyst (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumitex Accelerator!-80)
1.5% by weight, cationic softener (manufactured by Yoshibashira Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 29, solid content 20%) 6% by weight, 70 silicone (manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., Texasilicon, solid content 12%)
3% by weight, antistatic agent (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nirenone M
20) Apply a processing liquid of 2% by weight and the balance 100% to water to give 80% of the fabric weight of the silk fabric, and dry it in an infrared dryer to 120%.
It was dried for 4G seconds at 180°C and subsequently cured for 30 seconds at 180°C.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seam, and Example 1
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, after which the cough silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 1 In the same manner as in Example 1, resin printing and finishing agent were applied to a silk fabric after fixing.

The finished silk fabric was then divided at the seams, placed in a polyester net without tucking, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 2 In the same manner as in Example 2, a resin print and a finishing agent were applied to a silk fabric after the fix treatment.

The finished silk fabric was then divided at the seams, placed in a polyester net without tucking, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

The obtained stonewashed finished product with a three-dimensional pattern was evaluated as follows.

The appearance of the non-resin printed portion was determined by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

○: Excellent uniformity of wrinkles and no unevenness in the form of rubbing.

Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots.

×: The uniformity of wrinkles is poor, and there are scratch-shaped spots.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table #I2.

Table 2 1 [As is clear from Table 2, products that are applied with a finishing agent, tacked, packed in bags, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer have excellent wrinkle uniformity. , with no scratch-shaped spots.

Moreover, the three-dimensional effect was tested using the following test method.

Three-dimensional thickness was measured using a 2 micrometer [Constant vision was determined by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

Visual Judgment ○: Three-dimensional effect is particularly good. Δ: There is a three-dimensional effect. ×: There is no three-dimensional effect. The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 3.

As is clear from Table 1118 in Table 3, a three-dimensional effect can be obtained from the difference in thickness between the resin printed part and the non-resin printed part, and
It can be seen that the three-dimensional effect is visually superior when pigments are added.

(Effects of the Invention) As detailed above, the method of the present invention provides the following effects.

In other words, by printing a resin on at least one side of a silk mat material, applying a finishing agent, tucking, and washer processing, it is possible to create a silk mat with uniform wrinkles, no unevenness in the shape of scratches, and excellent three-dimensional appearance. It is possible to obtain a stone-washed silk product with a three-dimensional pattern that feels like a stone. Furthermore, by performing colored printing, the three-dimensional effect is visually improved, making it possible to apply it to animal prints. Moreover, its texture and appearance are particularly novel, and it is extremely useful for casual use.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) After printing a resin on at least one side of the textured knitted fabric, a finishing agent is applied, and then the tacked textured knitted fabric is packed in a bag, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer. A stonewash-like processing method that has a distinctive three-dimensional pattern on silk woven and knitted fabrics.