JPH0284588A - Stone wash-toned silk knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the title knitted fabric of novel appearance without causing fibrillation and impairing silk-like skin touch by imparting a silk knitted fabric with a specific softening agent followed by rubbing treatment. CONSTITUTION:Prior to rubbing treatment, a silk knitted fabric is imparted with, as a finishing agent, 0.2-1.5wt.% and 0.1-1wt.%, each based on said fabric, or a cationic softening agent and amino-modified silicone, respectively, followed by making a rubbing treatment using e.g., a liquid flow-type dyeing machine, thus obtaining the objective knitted fabric free from unevenness in rope-like wrinkles, friction marks and shape.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a stonewashed M4 woven or knitted fabric, and more specifically, a cationic softener and amino-modified silicone are attached to N351m fabric in advance and then rubbed. This invention relates to a stonewashed silk Q knitted fabric that has been processed to give it a new appearance and texture.

(Conventional technology and its problems) Conventionally, natural cotton has a washed-out feel and wears out! ! Stone-washed URN items with 1 sense have been made by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. The product obtained by this method has no wrinkles and has a very natural texture, but there is a problem that this method cannot be industrially mass-produced.

Therefore, in order to solve the above problems, industrially, stonewashed products are created by rolling the fabric with a jet dyer, wince, rotary washer, etc. ! ! products have been made. Among the above-mentioned machines, the rotary washer in particular has been commonly used because it produces a natural-looking product by exerting a kneading effect in a tension-free state. However, when a rotary washer is used, there is a problem in that the impact force generated by hot water is large, and depending on the material and structure, lobe-like wrinkles, scratch-shaped spots, etc. are noticeable.

To solve this problem, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 56-79761 discloses a method of using 1ζ steam instead of hot water as a heat medium for a rotary washer.
Publication No. 9584 proposes a method in which a fabric is wrapped in a back-and-over winding, stitched at several places on both edges, and then processed with a rotary washer while an elastic buffer is placed inside the back-and-over winding. There is.

Materials such as cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate, and rayon are rubbed with a rotary washer using the normal or special method described above, and stonewashed products have been developed, and many of them are on the market.

However, the fiber bundles of fine silk tend to split into fine fibers (fibrillation), and when rubbed using the jet dyeing machine, wince, or rotary washer described above, lobe-like wrinkles and scratched spots appear. etc., and stonewash preparations could not be commercialized using industrial methods.

In view of the above-mentioned circumstances, the inventors of the present invention have repeatedly considered the commercialization of stone-washed silk woven and knitted products using industrial methods.
We have found that fibrillation can be prevented by applying a cationic softener and amino-modified silicone as finishing agents.

The present invention provides a completely new stone wash 1 that has uniform wrinkles and a raised state with no scratched spots and a resilient feeling without impairing the soft feel of the silk woven rope itself.
The purpose is to provide silk woven and knitted fabrics.

(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention provides tissue silk to which a finishing agent is attached before rolling, the finishing agent being a cationic softener and an amino-modified silicone, and a cationic softener and an amino-modified silicone. The amount of S attached to the agent accounts for 0.2 to 1.5% of the weight of the silk, woven or knitted fabric, and the amount of attached amino-modified silicone is 0.1 to 1.0% of the weight of the silk or woven or knitted fabric.
It is a stone-washed silk woven fabric that occupies most of the area.

(Function) In the present invention, a cationic softener with high adsorption to silk and an amino-modified silicone are properly attached to the filth before the rolling process, so that the finishing agent protects the oral fiber bundles. Since it acts as a shoulder and the finishing agent does not fall off even in hot water, it is possible to weaken the impact force on a single fiber of hot water during rolling. Therefore, fibrillation of the silk material is prevented, and as a result, a high-quality product without wrinkles or chafing can be obtained. In addition, the action of amino-modified silicone gives it a texture that is excellent in resisting distractions.

The amount of cationic softener deposited on tissue silk is usually 0.2~
It accounts for 1.6%, preferably 0.5-a, e%.

In other words, if Mjl is less than the above 0.2%, the fiber bundle cannot be completely protected and it is insufficient to prevent fibrillation, whereas if it is more than 1.5%, silk Both are unsuitable because the texture is impaired and the feeling becomes slimy.

In addition, the amount of amino-modified silicone deposited is usually 0 on silk woven or knitted fabrics.
, 1 to 1.0%, preferably O12 to 0.5%. In other words, if the amount of adhesion is less than the above 0.1%, it will not be possible to completely protect the a-fibers, it will be insufficient to prevent fibrillation, and it will not give a rebound feeling that gives a good texture. I can't even get it. On the other hand, if this amount exceeds 1.0%, the unique texture of silk will be impaired and the silk will become too slimy, so both are unsuitable.

(Example) Next, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

As shown in Table 1, eight types of silk fabrics were subjected to desizing, scouring, dyeing, and fixing treatments according to conventional methods.

(Hereinafter, blank space) As shown in the examples in Table 1, the silk woven and knitted fabric referred to in the present invention refers to raw silk or spun silk alone, or those and other natural d
Examples include woven and knitted fabrics made by blending or interweaving fibers and synthetic fibers, and the counts and densities of the warps and wefts that make up these am structures are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue disturbance when processed with a rotary washer, etc. . The composition ratio of silk in silk woven and knitted fabrics is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 60% or more is preferable in order to obtain the characteristic soft touch. In the case of silk woven and knitted fabrics using raw silk, wrinkles are likely to occur due to large fibrillation during rolling, so it is preferable to use glyoxal resin in addition to cationic softeners and amino-modified silicones. The amount of adhesion is preferably 0.9 to 0% of the Ma knitted fabric.

The composition of the cationic softener applied to the silk woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but tertiary pA amine type, quaternary ammonium salt type, and quaternary pyridinium salt type are preferable. Further, the composition of the amino-modified silicon is not particularly limited, but those having the structure shown below are preferable.

A preferred method for processing stone-washed silk fabrics is to apply a finishing agent, tuff it, pack it into bags, rub it with a rotary washer, and then dry it with a tumble dryer.

The above processing method will be briefly explained.

When applying a finishing agent to the above-mentioned pre-treated knitted fabric, it is dried in accordance with a conventional method using a conventional pad device, and when a resin is used in combination, curing is performed.

The shoe-king method can be done by dividing the silk woven or knitted fabric at the seams, folding it into two sheets along the width direction, and then covering the edges with thread, or by wrapping and hanging them in the same way as hanging lines and hanging dyeing. Alternatively, the edges may be loosely bound with thread. Materials such as polyester, nylon, and hemp can be used for bags for packing, but i8 D, P
It is preferable to use a streamer ester net, which is less likely to rub against Ir materials. The processing conditions for the rotary washer are 25 to 4 rotations.
5 rotations/min, bath ratio 1:50~1:5OO1 set temperature 6
Preferably, the temperature is 0 to 100°C and the setting time is 6 to 90 minutes, the number of rotations is 30 to 40 revolutions/min, and the bath ratio is 1:100 to 1.
: 200. More preferably, the set temperature is 50° to 60° C. and the set time is in the range of so-go minutes. If the above treatment conditions are outside the range, wrinkles may become uneven and defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the a-knitted fabric.

Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the tone of the stone,
It is preferable to put pebbles, pumice stones, pachinko balls, etc. into the rotary washer.

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to specific examples using silk fabrics shown in Table 1.

Example 1 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing,
Cationic softener (manufactured by Ipposha Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 29. Solid content 20%) 5% by weight, amino-modified silicone (manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., Texasilicon, solid content 12%) δ weight h 1%
, antistatic agent (Daiichi Kogyo!ill, manufactured by a certain company, Nirenone Nn
20) 2 ffl it%, balance 100% with water
The resulting processing liquid was applied to 60% of the fabric weight of silk and dried in an infrared dryer at 120° C. for 40 seconds.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent had been applied was divided into D stitches, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and the edges were loosely bound with thread at 10 cm intervals. Thereafter, the tacked silk fabric was placed in a polyester net and placed in a rotary washer. Processing conditions for the rotary washer are 50 rotations/min, bath ratio 1:10
G, the temperature was 60° C. and the time was 50 minutes, and the rolling process was performed therein.

The post-cough tissue was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain the product of Example 1.

Example! Using a padding device on the silk fabric after fix treatment,
Glyoxal resin (manufactured by Sumima Kagaku Co., Ltd., Sumitex Resin N3-111. Solid content 46%) 5M amount %, metal salt catalyst (manufactured by Sumiteku Kagaku Co., Ltd., Sumitex Accelerator X-
80) 1.5 weight fi%, cationic softener (manufactured by Ichisha Yushi Co., Ltd., Vicron 29° solid content 20%) 5M amount%, amino-modified silicone (manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., Texasilicon, solid content 12%) ) 5% by weight, 2ii% of antistatic agent (manufactured by Dai-ichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nilenone M20), and the balance of 100% water, was added to 60% of the date of the Mta material, and dried in an infrared dryer. Dry at 120°C for 40 seconds, then at 180°C
I cured it for 30 seconds.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seam, and Example 1
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, after which the vagina silk fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain the product of Example 2.

Comparative Example 1 The silk fabric after the fix treatment was divided at 0 stitches, tacked in the same manner as in Example 1, placed in a polyester net,
I put it in the rotary washer.

The conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and the vagina silk fabric was then dried in a tumble drier to obtain the product of Comparative Example 1.

Comparative Example 2 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
5% by weight of cationic softener (manufactured by Ipposha Yushisha Co., Ltd., Vicron 29, solid content 20%), 2% by weight of antistatic agent (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Element kX20), the balance is 100% with water.
A processing solution of 60% of the date was applied to the silk fabric, and the fabric was dried at 120° C. for 40 seconds using an infrared dryer.

Next, the Ma product to which the finishing agent had been applied was divided into 0-mesh pieces, subjected to tufting in the same manner as in Example 1, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, after which the vagina silk fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain the product of Comparative Example 2.

Comparative Example 3 A padding device was used on the brown 11 material after the fix treatment, and amino-modified silicone (Texasilicon, manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., solid content 12%) 37H1%, antistatic agent (manufactured by Dai-ichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nilenone Nn20') 21i amount%, the balance was 100% with water, and the processing liquid was added to 60% of the basis weight of the silk fabric.
It was applied and dried in an infrared dryer at 110'CX for 40 seconds.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided by eyelets, and Example 1
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and then the vagina wi fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain a product of Comparative Example 3.

Comparative Example 4 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
Non-ionic softener (manufactured by Kao Atlas Co., Ltd., Softex N
-491, solid content 30%) 5 formula weight%, dimethyl silicone (manufactured by Kyoeisha Yushi Co., Ltd., Light Silicone R167, solid content 1
6%) 3% by weight, an antistatic agent (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nyrenone N120) 2 times ffi%, and the balance 100% with water, was applied to 60% of the date of the silk fabric, and red It was dried at 120° C. for 40 seconds in a dryer with external heddles.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seam, and Example 1
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and then the vagina silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain a product of Comparative Example 4.

The obtained stonewash preparation was evaluated as follows.

The appearance was determined by visual inspection by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

O: Excellent wrinkle uniformity and no scratch-shaped spots.

Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots.

×: The uniformity of wrinkles is poor, and there are scratch-shaped spots.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 2.

As is clear from Table 2, the products using a combination of a cationic softener and amino-modified silicone have uniform wrinkles and no unevenness in the form of rubbing. In particular, it was confirmed that for the M fabric (fabric positive 3) using raw silk, the use of a resin in combination with the finishing agent brought about preferable results.

In addition, when non-ionic fabric softeners or unmodified silicones such as dimethyl silicone are used, they tend to fall off considerably in hot water due to their poor adsorption to silk, weakening the impact force of hot water. It can be seen that this is not possible, and therefore only a product with scratch-shaped spots can be obtained.

In addition, the feel was judged by the touch of 10 professional inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

○: Excellent anti-zero feeling.

△: Repulsion feeling is slightly inferior.

×: Poor reactivity.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 3.

(Hereinafter, blank space) As is clear from Table 3 and Table 5, products that do not use resin but use a cationic softener and an [anosilicon] have an excellent rebound feeling. Anti-distraction can be obtained with a finishing agent that does not use a resin in combination, but in the case of silk fabrics (fabric I!I) containing raw silk, the results in Table 2 show that it is better to use a resin in combination. It can be seen that when unmodified silicone such as dimethyl silicone is used, no repulsion feeling is obtained.

Comparative Example 5 The same processing liquid as in Example 1 was applied to the silk fabric after the fix treatment, and the same was dried in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a product of Comparative Example 5.

Comparative example 6 Obtained.

Next, Example 1. Example 2. Comparative example 5. The feel of the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 6 was measured by KES (handle measurement standard for edge-type fabrics). The results of these evaluations (Ii!, average in the latitudinal direction) are shown in Table 4.

(Left below) As is clear from Table 4, the products obtained in the examples of the present invention have a thickness difference (thickness at 50ff/cmf compression -0.69
f/cm! There is a feeling of swelling as if from the thickness (thickness when compressed). In addition, it has a soft texture as seen from the average mass coefficient, and unlike conventional silk products, it has a completely new texture.

(Effects of the Invention) The present invention achieves the following effects with the configuration described above.

Because the cationic softener and amino-modified silicone are attached to the m n i material, fibrillation does not occur during the subsequent rolling process, and as a result, the resulting product loses the soft feel of the silk woven or knitted fabric itself. It has uniform wrinkles, no spots in the shape of rubbing, and has a pilsed state and a feeling of repulsion. Its texture and appearance are completely new, and it has a washed-out, rough appeal.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A silk woven or knitted fabric to which a finishing agent has been applied before rolling, wherein the finishing agent is a cationic softener and an amino-modified silicone, and the amount of the cationic softener attached is 0.0% of the weight of the silk woven or knitted fabric. A stone-washed silk woven or knitted fabric in which the amount of amino-modified silicone is 2 to 1.5% and the amount of amino-modified silicone attached is 0.1 to 1.0% of the weight of the silk woven or knitted fabric.