JPH04316681A - Woven or knit silk fabric having stone-wash tone and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a completely new woven or knit silk fabric having stone- wash tone, uniform wrinkle and evenly fluffed state free from scrubbed shape and exhibiting massive repulsive feeling without deteriorating soft feeling of woven or knit silk fabric and to provide a process for the production of the fabric. CONSTITUTION:The objective woven or knit silk fabric is produced by applying a finishing agent to the fabric before creasing treatment. The finishing agent is composed of a urethane resin and the amount of the resin applied to the woven or knit silk fabric is 1-10wt.% based on the fabric. The woven or knit silk fabric can be produced by applying a urethane resin to the fabric, subjecting the fabric to creasing treatment with a jet dyeing machine in the presence of a softener in a bath and drying with a tumbler dryer. As an alternative method, the fabric can be produced by applying a urethane resin to a woven or knit silk fabric in the stone-wash finishing with a rotary washer, bagging the treated fabric after tucking, creasing with a rotary washer and drying with a tumbler dryer.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

[Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a stonewashed silk woven and knitted fabric and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, the present invention relates to a stonewashed silk woven and knitted fabric and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, the present invention relates to a stonewashed silk fabric and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, it has a new appearance without rope-like wrinkles or scratched spots, and a wind-like fabric with a firm and resilient feel. The present invention relates to a stonewashed silk woven and knitted fabric having a textured texture and a method for producing the same.

0002

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Conventionally, the stone-washed finish that gives natural cotton a washed-out and worn-in feel has been achieved by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. Although this method does not cause wrinkles and provides a very natural texture, it has the problem that it cannot be industrially mass-produced.

[0003] Therefore, in order to solve the above problems,
Industrially, a stone-washed finish has been achieved by rubbing the fabric with a jet dyer, wince, rotary washer, etc. In particular, jet dyeing machines and rotary washers have been commonly used because of their productivity and because they create a natural-looking finish by creating a rolling effect in a non-tensioned state. Processing using this jet dyeing machine and rotary washer is widely applied to materials such as cotton, nylon, polyester, and acetate. The spots etc. are noticeable,
The problem was that only products with low commercial value could be made.

[0004] In order to solve the problems of rope-like wrinkles and abrasion-shaped spots in silk woven and knitted fabrics in such jet dyeing machines and rotary washers, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-8860 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 1-280065 have been previously published. It has been proposed to use a cationic softener, an amino silicone, and, if necessary, a glyoxal resin as a treatment agent, but there is a problem in that a firm and resilient feeling cannot be obtained.

[0005]

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In view of the above-mentioned circumstances, the present inventors have repeatedly studied the commercialization of stonewashed silk woven and knitted products using industrial methods, and have developed a jet dyeing machine and a rotary dyeing machine. It has been discovered that applying urethane resin as a finishing agent before rolling with a washer etc. can prevent the occurrence of rope-like wrinkles and scuff-shaped spots, and can provide a texture with a firm and resilient feel. Obtained. The present invention is a completely new stone-washed silk fabric that has uniform wrinkles, a raised state with no scratched spots, and a resilient feeling without impairing the soft feel of the silk woven or knitted fabric itself. The purpose is to provide a knitted fabric and a method for manufacturing the same.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems In order to achieve the above object, the present invention takes the following configuration. That is, the first invention is a silk woven or knitted fabric to which a finishing agent is applied before rolling,
The gist of the invention is a stonewashed silk woven or knitted fabric in which the finishing agent is a urethane resin, and the amount of urethane resin adhered to the silk woven or knitted fabric accounts for 1 to 10% of the weight of the silk woven or knitted fabric. The subject matter is a method for producing stone-washed silk woven and knitted fabrics, which is characterized by applying a resin, then rolling in a jet dyeing machine in the presence of a softener in a bath, and then drying in a tumble dryer, and The third invention is to give a silk woven and knitted fabric a stonewash finish using a rotary washer, and after applying urethane resin, the tacked silk woven and knitted fabric is packed in bags, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer. The gist of this invention is a method for producing a stonewashed silk woven or knitted fabric.

Further, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0008] Silk woven and knitted fabrics as used in the present invention include woven and knitted fabrics made of raw silk or spun silk alone, or blended or interwoven with these and other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and these fiber structures are composed of The counts and densities of the warp and weft are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue disturbance when processed using a jet dyeing machine or a rotary washer. Further, the composition ratio of silk in the silk woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable in order to obtain the soft feel peculiar to silk. The silk woven or knitted fabric is then subjected to pretreatments such as desizing, scouring, dyeing, fixing, etc. by known methods.

In the present invention, examples of the urethane resin include polyurethane emulsions consisting of diisocyanates and polyols, and examples of the diisocyanates include hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylene diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, and 1,5-naphthalene. Examples of the polyol include polyethylene adipate, polypropylene adipate, polybutylene adipate, polyethylene phthalate, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, and polyethylene propylene glycol. The amount of adhesion accounts for 1 to 10%, preferably 2 to 6% of the silk woven or knitted material. In other words, if the amount of adhesion is less than 1%, the fiber bundles of silk fibers cannot be completely protected, rope-like wrinkles and scratch-like spots occur, and a firm and resilient feeling cannot be obtained. If this amount exceeds 10%, it is unsuitable because the unique feel of silk will be impaired. When applying a urethane resin to a silk woven or knitted fabric, drying and curing are performed in accordance with a conventional method using a conventional pad device.

In the present invention, the bath softener is not particularly limited. In addition, the amount used is 0.2 to 2.0 in terms of solid content.
g/l is good.

[0011] The processing conditions of the jet dyeing machine used in the present invention are a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:50 and a set temperature of 50 to 100°C.
and the setting time is preferably in the range of 10 to 150 minutes, and the bath ratio is 1:10 to 1:30, the setting temperature is 90 to 100°C, and the setting time is preferably in the range of 60 to 120 minutes. If the processing conditions are outside the above range, wrinkles may become uneven or defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

The tucking method referred to in the present invention may be a method in which the silk woven or knitted fabric is divided at the seam, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and then the edges are loosely bound with thread, or the method may be a method in which the silk woven or knitted fabric is divided at the seam, folded into two pieces with the width direction as an axis, and then the selvedges are loosely bound with thread. You can also wrap it up and loosely bind the edges with thread in the same way.

[0013] The bag for packing used in the present invention is
Materials such as polyester, nylon, and hemp can be used, but
Polyester nets are preferred because they are less likely to rub against silk woven or knitted fabrics.

The processing conditions for the rotary washer used in the present invention are a rotation speed of 25 to 45 revolutions/minute and a bath ratio of 1:5.
Preferably, the range is 0 to 1:300, the set temperature is 50 to 100°C, and the set time is 5 to 90 minutes, the rotation speed is 30 to 40 revolutions/min, the bath ratio is 1:100 to 1:200, and the set temperature is 50 to 6.
More preferably, the temperature is 0°C and the setting time is in the range of 30 to 60 minutes. If the above processing conditions are outside the range, wrinkles may become uneven or
Defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the stonewashed look,
It is preferable to put pebbles, pumice stones, pachinko balls, etc. into the rotary washer.

[0015]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples below.

The obtained stonewash preparation was evaluated as follows.

[0017] The appearance was judged by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows. ○: Excellent uniformity of wrinkles and no unevenness in the form of rubbing. Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots. ×: The uniformity of wrinkles is poor, and there are spots in the shape of rubbing.

[0018] Furthermore, the feel was judged by the touch of 10 professional inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows. ○: Excellent repulsion feeling. △: Repulsion feeling is slightly inferior. ×: Poor repulsion feeling.

○: Has waist. △: Waist normal. ×: No waist.

Example 1 A silk plain woven fabric with a warp and weft count of 140 twin yarns and a density of 118 yarns/inch in the warp and 100 yarns/inch in the weft was subjected to scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and fixing treatments using conventional methods.

[0021] Using a padding device, the silk plain fabric after the fix treatment was coated with polyurethane resin (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.).
company, Superflex E-2000, solid content 50%
) 5% by weight, the balance being 100% water, was applied to 70% of the fabric weight of the silk fabric, and dried at 120°C in an infrared dryer.
Dry for 40 seconds, followed by curing at 150°C for 3 minutes.

Next, add 1 g of nonionic bath softener (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Fine Soft AQ80, solid content 17%).
/l, and the rolling process was carried out using a jet dyeing machine.

[0023] A rigid type circular (manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) was used as a jet dyeing machine, and the treatment was carried out at a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 98°C, and a time of 120 minutes. Thereafter, the silk fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain the product of Example 1.

Comparative Example 1 A silk plain fabric that had been fixed in the same manner as in Example 1 was rolled in a jet dyeing machine under the same conditions as in Example 1, and then the silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer. , a product of Comparative Example 1 was obtained.

Comparative Example 2 Using a padding device, 3% by weight of amino-modified silicone (manufactured by Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd., Dick Silicone A900) was added to silk plain fabric after the same fix treatment as in Example 1.
70% of the fabric weight of the silk plain fabric was applied with a processing solution with the remainder being 100% water, dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds, and subsequently cured at 150°C for 3 minutes.

Next, the silk fabric was rolled using a jet dyeing machine under the same conditions as in Example 1, and then the silk fabric was dried using a tumble drier to obtain a product of Comparative Example 2.

Next, Table 1 shows the appearance and texture of the products obtained in Example 1, Comparative Example 1, and Comparative Example 2.

[0028]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the products to which the urethane resin has been applied have excellent wrinkle uniformity, are free from scratch-shaped spots, and have a firm and resilient feel.

Example 2 Using a padding device, 5% by weight of polyurethane resin (Superflex E-2000, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) and the remainder were added to a silk fabric after the same fixing treatment as in Example 1. Processing liquid made 100% with water is 70% of the basis weight of silk fabric.
It was applied and dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds, followed by curing at 150°C for 3 minutes.

Next, the urethane resin-applied silk fabric was divided at the seams, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and the edges were loosely bound with thread at 10 cm intervals. Thereafter, the tacked silk fabric was placed in a polyester net and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions for the rotary washer are 30 rotations/
minutes, bath ratio 1:100, temperature 60°C, time 30 minutes,
The rubbing process was carried out in it. Thereafter, the silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain the product of Example 2.

Comparative Example 3 A silk plain fabric that had been fixed in the same manner as in Example 1 was divided at the seams, tacked in the same manner as in Example 1, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and then the silk plain fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain a product of Comparative Example 3.

Comparative Example 4 Using a padding device, 3% by weight of a silicone-based softener (manufactured by Kyoeisha Yushi Kagaku Kogyo Co., Ltd., Light Silicone R167) was added to silk plain fabric after the same fixing treatment as in Example 1.
The processing liquid with the remainder made up of 100% water was added to the fabric weight 7 of silk plain fabric.
0% and dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds, followed by curing at 150°C for 3 minutes.

Next, the silk plain fabric was divided at the seam, and Example 2 was prepared.
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 2, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and then the silk plain fabric was dried in a tumble drier to obtain a product of Comparative Example 4.

Next, Table 2 shows the appearance and texture of the products obtained in Example 2, Comparative Example 3, and Comparative Example 4.

[0036]

[Table 2]

As is clear from Table 2, the products to which the urethane resin has been applied have excellent wrinkle uniformity, are free from scratch-shaped spots, and have a firm and resilient feel.

[0038]

[Effects of the Invention] As detailed above, according to the present invention,
It is possible to obtain a stone-washed silk product having uniform wrinkles, a raised state with no scratched spots, a firm and resilient feeling, and a soft touch peculiar to silk. Its texture and appearance are completely new, and it has a washed-out, rough appeal.

Claims (5)

[Claims] Claim 1: A silk woven or knitted fabric to which a finishing agent is attached before rolling, wherein the finishing agent is a urethane resin, and the amount of the urethane resin attached accounts for 1 to 10% of the weight of the silk woven or knitted fabric. Stonewashed silk knit. 2. A stonewashed silk fabric characterized by applying a urethane resin to a silk woven or knitted fabric, then rolling it in a liquid jet dyeing machine in the presence of a softener in a bath, and then drying it in a tumble drier. Method of manufacturing knitted fabrics. [Claim 3] The processing conditions of the jet dyeing machine are a bath ratio of 1:1.
2. The manufacturing method according to item 2, wherein the temperature is set at 0 to 1:50, the set temperature is set at 50 to 100°C, and the set time is set at 10 to 150 minutes. [Claim 4] When giving a silk woven and knitted fabric a stonewash finish using a rotary washer, after applying a urethane resin, the tacked silk woven and knitted fabric is packed in a bag, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer. A method for producing a stonewashed silk woven or knitted fabric. [Claim 5] The processing conditions of the rotary washer are:
Rotation speed 25-45 rotations/min, bath ratio 1:50-1:300
5. The manufacturing method according to item 4, wherein the set temperature is 50 to 100°C and the set time is in the range of 5 to 90 minutes.