JPH0379472B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a method for improving the feel of a raised fabric for imparting a polymeric feel and soft texture similar to that of natural suede to a raised fabric having fluff of synthetic fibers with a fineness of 1 denier or less. It is related to.

Conventionally, various processing methods have been used to make napped fabrics similar to natural suede. For example, non-woven fabrics are made using ultra-fine fibers, urethane resin is used to maintain strength and texture, and the surface is fluffed to give it a suede look. After that, it is brushed and treated with urethane resin and softener to give it a suede look. However, the former method, which uses non-woven fabric, produces something similar in appearance and touch to suede, but has the disadvantage of having a rubber-like feel due to the need to maintain strength and the use of a large amount of urethane. . In addition, the latter type of raised fabric, which is woven and knitted with a texture in which ultra-fine fibers are raised, has a good texture and touch, but is bulky and does not feel heavy inside, and does not have a natural suede look. That's far from it. For this reason, attempts have been made to improve the suede-like appearance by using a combination of urethane resin and softener, but increasing the amount of urethane resin may cause the fuzz of the napped fabric to adhere to each other, or The disadvantage is that the bond becomes rough and hard. In order to improve this situation, a combination of kneading in liquid and kneading with a finishing machine has been used, but it is not possible to obtain a feeling of weight inside the raised fabric, and Otherwise, you will only get something fluffy.

In order to solve these problems, the present inventors conducted intensive research and found that if a fabric in a raised state is heat-pressed at high temperature and then kneaded with hot water in a rope shape, it can create an appearance and weight similar to that of natural suede products. The present invention was achieved by discovering the fact that a texture can be obtained.

That is, in the present invention, a raised fabric having fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less is subjected to a heat press treatment at a temperature of 150 to 230°C so that its thickness is reduced by 10 to 50%, and then the fabric is made into a rope. The gist of this invention is a method for improving the texture of raised fabric, which is characterized by subjecting it to a warm water kneading treatment at 40 to 140°C.

The present invention will be explained in detail below. The raised fabric having fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less used in the present invention refers to synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylic fibers, etc. on the surface of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwoven fabrics, etc. These ultrafine fibers are composed of a structure in which short fibers or long fibers exist alone or in combination, and the fineness of the short fibers is 1 denier or less. This refers to the raised fabric on both the front and back sides. Here, the nonwoven fabric may be one that uses polyurethane resin as a binder to maintain strength, and the woven fabric may have a twill in the weft direction.
It is suitable to use a texture such as or satin because it is easy to brush. For circular knitting, tatsu reversible or tatsukumokuro day fabrics are suitable.
For warp knitting, a satin weave is preferable. In either case, it is necessary that the microfibers become short fluffs after being raised and appear on the surface or both sides of the fabric. As for the raising method, a raising machine using a cloth roll, a sand roll, a sand belt, etc. is preferable. The single yarn fineness is set to 1 denier or less in order to make the appearance, touch, finger marks, and feel of the raised fabric, which has fluff after raising, approximate that of natural suede. If it is more than 1 denier, the texture will be hard and the touch will be rough and hard, making it difficult to get finger marks etc. seen in natural suede.

Note that it is more preferable for the length of the fluff after raising to be uniform, as this will approximate a suede-like appearance. If the fluff is long, the fuzz will become entangled and form a pill. In the experience of the present inventors, preferably about 0.2 to
Although the range is approximately 1 mm, it is okay to include some fluff that exceeds this range.

In the present invention, the raised fabric as described above is subjected to a hot press treatment at 150 to 230°C to reduce the thickness of the fabric by 10 to 50%. This high-temperature heat press treatment is an important step in the present invention for increasing the weight of the raised fabric. A calendar, a press, a transfer printing machine, etc. can be used as the thermal pulse processing machine. Calenders and rotary presses require high pressure and short-time processing, while transfer printing machines require low pressure and long-time processing. In either case, the heating roll is heated to a high temperature of 150 to 230°C and brought into direct or indirect contact with the surface of the raised fabric. The processing time is usually several seconds when using a calendar or rotary press, and usually several tens of seconds when using a transfer printing machine.
The pressure varies from 10 to 50% depending on the type of raised fabric and its thickness.
What is necessary is just to select the conditions which reduce it suitably. The reason for setting the heat press temperature to 150 to 230℃ is to improve the durability of the reduced thickness; below 150℃, the setting properties of the heat press are insufficient for synthetic fibers, and above 230℃ For synthetic fibers, hardening, yellowing,
This is undesirable because it tends to cause problems such as dye weeping and a decrease in strength. The most suitable heat press temperature is 170-210℃. When the thickness is reduced by 10 to 50%, the fiber density per unit volume increases, so even raised fabrics made from the same base fabric have an increased weight and feel similar to natural suede.
If the thickness is reduced by less than 10%, the weight will not increase too much and the purpose of the present invention cannot be achieved.If the thickness is reduced by more than 50%, the material of the receiving roll, receiving belt, etc. may be affected due to the high temperature. This is not only undesirable as it causes unreasonable cost increases, but also under conditions where the amount is reduced by more than 50%, the raised fabric becomes flat and its paper-like quality deteriorates. The most preferred thickness reduction is 30-40%.

Heat press treatment at 150 to 230℃ is applied to a fluffed fabric with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less to reduce the thickness of the fabric by 10 to 50%, which increases the weight and at the same time increases the gloss of the surface of the fabric. , it becomes flat and the fluff adheres to the base fabric, and if left as it is, it will not look like natural suede. Therefore, in the present invention, the rope is then subjected to hot water kneading treatment at 40 to 140°C. This warm water kneading treatment frees the fuzz that had adhered to the base fabric, resulting in a product with a quality close to that of natural suede.

As the warm water kneading treatment device, a rope-shaped washing and dyeing machine used in general dye factories is preferably used. For example, a wince, a jet dyeing machine, etc. In the method of the present invention, it is more preferable to use a liquid flow type dyeing machine which has a reel or jet nozzle and which actively moves the treated fabric and treatment liquid rather than a winch.

The hot water kneading treatment may be carried out using hot water of 40℃ to 140℃, and if necessary, finishing aids may be used together with alkalis, surfactants, etc. for other purposes such as improving color fastness, etc. A reducing agent and an antifoaming agent may be used together. In addition, alkali and the like have a weight-reducing effect on polyester fibers, and are advantageous in softening the texture. By carrying out this hot water kneading treatment, the rather flat, glossy, hard-textured nap fabric whose feathers adhered to the base fabric due to the high-temperature heat press treatment is improved, and the fluff that had adhered to the base fabric is freed. This gives it a weight and soft texture close to that of natural suede.

After hot water treatment, dehydration and drying may be performed, and if necessary, antistatic agents and softeners may be applied.
Further, a hand feel improver such as a polyurethane resin or a water repellent may be used in combination.

In addition, when using polyurethane resin etc. to prevent fuzzing, prevent pilling, or adjust texture, these treatments should be performed before heat pressing after napping or before hot water massaging after heat press treatment. It's good to wear.

Furthermore, by using an embossing calendar with the wrinkled pattern of cowhide during heat press processing, or using transfer paper printed with the wrinkled pattern of cowhide when using a transfer printing machine, transfer printing can be performed at the same time as heat pressing. It can approach the elegance of suede. The present invention has the above-mentioned structure, and with this structure, it is possible to impart a heavy feel and a soft feel to the raised fabric, and easily obtain a quality similar to that of natural suede products.

Next, the method of the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples, but the present repelling is not limited thereto in any way.

Example 1 As the warp, polyester false twisted processed yarn 75 denier/36 filament (filament fineness approximately 2 denier) was additionally twisted with S twist 300 times,
Polyester filament yarn 55 denier for weft/
A 5-ply satin fabric with double wefts on both sides was woven using a sweet false-twisted yarn of 196 filaments (filament fineness approximately 0.28 denier) with S-twist ends false-twisted 280 times/m. Immediately after weaving, the width was 175 cm, the warp density was 110 threads/inch, the weft density was 178 threads/inch, and the weight ^per square meter was 86 g.

The woven fabric was relaxed and refined in the usual way, dyed brown, and then set in a pin tenter at 170°C for 50 seconds.
Next, using a hydraulic needle cloth raising machine, the front side was raised 10 times and the back side was raised 4 times, so that the front side had a large amount of short fluff over the entire surface, and the back side had a slightly lower fluff density. In the raising process, a slightly stronger tension than usual was applied to the cloth in order to produce particularly short fluff with a high density, and the number of times the raising was made was increased under weak conditions. After brushing, brush at 180℃ for 40 minutes with a pin tenter to remove wrinkles and measure dimensional stability.
A heat set was performed for 2 seconds. The napped fabric at this time had a width of 132 cm, a thickness of 0.67 mm, and a basis weight of 124 g/m ² .

Next, using a transfer printing machine, a transfer paper on which cowhide-like wrinkles were printed on the entire surface in dark brown using a conventional disperse dye was sandwiched between the surface of the raised fabric and a hot roll, and heat press treatment was continuously performed. The heat roll surface temperature was 215°C, and the treatment time was 38 seconds. The thickness after hot press treatment was 0.41 mm, which was a thickness reduction of about 39%. The surface of the raised fabric had a very strong luster with the cowhide-like wrinkles transferred to the entire surface, and most of the fluff on the surface was embedded in the base fabric. Although the feel of weight was sufficiently felt compared to before hot pressing, the texture was paper-like and different from natural suede.

Next, using a Rustam type jet dyeing machine made by Kitagawa Kogyo, the bath ratio was 1:26, the cloth speed was 130 m/min, and the temperature was 80°C.
A rope-like kneading process was performed for 1 minute. In addition, during this treatment, 2 g of hydrosulfite per 1 water,
2 g of soda ash and 1 g of surfactant were used together. After washing with water, it was spread, dehydrated with a mangle, and then dried with a roller dryer. The thickness was 0.46 mm, which was about a 10% thickness recovery compared to after the hot press treatment, but the thickness decreased by about 31% from before the hot press treatment.
At this time, the width was 131 cm, the basis weight was 125 g/m ² , the warp yarn density was 147 yarns/inch, and the weft yarn density was 192 yarns/inch. In addition, the strong luster before the hot water kneading process is reduced to a moderate luster, and the adhesion of the surface fuzz is eliminated, resulting in a suede-like fluff. It was similar to natural suede products.

In addition, due to the double structure, there was no problem in using it as clothing even though it was thin, and since it had been treated with hot water, it had excellent dye fastness and dimensional stability after washing.

In addition, for comparison, the one that did not undergo heat press treatment did not have the appropriate luster and did not have a good texture.
When evaluating the condition of the fluff and the condition of the base fabric, it was found that it was close to cotton flannelette, fluffy, and did not have a heavy feel, but was far from natural suede-like.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A raised fabric with fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less is coated with 150 to reduce its thickness by 10-50%
A method for improving the feel of a raised fabric, characterized by carrying out a heat press treatment at a temperature of ~230°C, and then subjecting the fabric to a rope-like kneading treatment in hot water at a temperature of 40~140°C.