JPS59223360A - Feeling improvement of raised cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a method for improving the feel of a raised fabric for imparting a feeling of weight and softness similar to that of natural suede to a raised fabric having fluff with a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less of synthetic fibers. It is related to.

Conventionally, various processing methods have been used to make raised fabrics resemble natural suede. For example, non-woven fabrics are made using ultra-fine fibers, urethane resin is used to maintain strength and texture, and one surface is fluffed to give it a suede look. After that, there is a method of brushing it and adding urethane resin or softener to give it a suede look. However, the former method using nonwoven fabric produces an appearance and touch similar to suede, but has the disadvantage that the texture becomes rubber-like because a large amount of urethane is used to maintain the same strength. ing. In addition, the latter type of raised fabric made from a la-woven fabric made from a fabric in which ultra-fine fibers are raised has a good texture and touch, but it is too bulky and does not feel heavy inside the fabric, and is similar to natural suede. It's far from perfect. For this reason, attempts have been made to improve the appearance of suede by using a combination of urethane resins and softeners, but increasing the amount of urethane used alone may cause the fuzz of the raised fabric to adhere to each other, or the texture may deteriorate. The defect of roughness and hardness occurs. Therefore, in order to improve this condition, a method is being used that uses a combination of kneading in liquid and kneading with a finishing machine.
It is not possible to obtain a feeling of weight inside the raised fabric, and even if the raised naps are shortened and the appearance is made of suede steel, the texture is only dry and fluffy.

In order to solve these problems, the present inventors conducted extensive research and found that after hot pressing the fabric in a raised state at high temperature, a kneading effect could be created by utilizing the elasticity of the rubber belt pressed against the heat cylinder. The present invention was achieved based on the discovery that an appearance, weight, and texture close to those of natural suede products can be obtained.

That is, 1 the present invention is a raised fabric having fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less, which is subjected to a heat press treatment at a temperature of 150 to 230°C so that its thickness is reduced by 10 to 50%, and then formed into an endless rubber heald. Using a fabric forced shrinkage processing device consisting of a heating cylinder roll, the rubber belt and the
This is a method for improving the feel of a raised fabric, characterized in that the fabric is kneaded by inserting and transferring the fabric between a thermal cylinder and rolls heated to 80°C.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The fabric having fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less used in the present invention refers to short fibers of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyacrylonitrile fibers on the surface or both sides of a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric, etc. Or, it is composed of a structure in which long fibers exist alone or in combination, and is an ultrafine fiber with a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less, and after raising, these ultrafine fibers become short fluff and are used to cover the surface or front and back of the fabric. This refers to the raised fabric on both sides. Here, nonwoven fabrics include those using polyurethane resin as a binder to maintain strength. In addition, for fabrics, it is suitable to have a texture such as twill (fill) or satin in the weft direction because of the nap. Regarding knitted fabrics, tuck-reversible or tank mossochloid textures are suitable for circular knitting, and satin textures are preferable for warp knitting.

In either case, the structure must be such that the ultrafine fibers become short fluffs and appear on the surface or both the front and back sides of the fabric after being raised. As for the raising method, it is preferable to use a raising machine using a cloth roll, a sand roll, a sand belt, etc. The single yarn fineness should be 1 denier or less.After raising these 1
This is to make the appearance, touch, finger marks, and texture of the fluffed fabric closer to that of natural suede. ■If it is 11 or higher, the texture will be hard, the texture will be rough and hard, and there will be finger marks found in natural suede, and the texture will be hard.

In addition, the shorter the length of the fluff after raising, the closer to eight laps of suede, which is even more preferable. If the length is also one fluff, there will be a drawback that the fluffs will become entangled with each other and form a pill. According to the experience of the present inventors, the thickness is preferably in the range of about 0.4 to 1 mm, but there is no problem in including some fluff outside this range. Additionally, hair may be sheared if necessary.

In the present invention, the raised fabric as described above has a temperature of 150 to 23 (°C).
Heat press treatment is performed to reduce the thickness of the fabric by 10-50%. This 'IG thermal press treatment is an important step of the present invention for increasing the weight of the raised fabric. Calendar is a heat press processing machine.

Presses, transfer printing machines, etc. can be used. Calenders and rotary presses require high pressure and short-time processing, while transfer printing machines require low pressure and long-time processing.

When using either, heat the roll at 150-230℃.
at a high temperature such that it comes into direct or indirect contact with the surface of the raised fabric. The processing time is usually several seconds when using a calendar or rotary press, and usually several tens of seconds when using a transfer printing machine.

The pressure varies from 10 to 50% of the thickness depending on the type of raised fabric.
The temperature of the heat press treatment is set at 150°C to 230°C to improve the durability of the reduced thickness. The properties are insufficient compared to synthetic fiber G,
At temperatures above 230°C, synthetic fibers tend to suffer from curing, yellowing, dye weeping, and a decrease in strength, which is not desirable). The most suitable heat press temperature within the above range is 170''C to 210℃.
When reduced by 0-50%.

Because the fiber density per unit volume increases, even raised fabrics made from the same base fabric feel heavier.

A texture similar to natural suede can be obtained. Thickness reduction is 10
If the thickness is less than 50%, the weight increase will be too small and the purpose of the present invention cannot be achieved, and it is impossible to reduce the thickness by more than 50% due to the high temperature and the material of the bridge is a roll, the bridge is a belt, etc. This is not only undesirable as it increases the cost, but under conditions where it is reduced by 50% or more, the raised fabric becomes extremely flat and paper-like, degrading the quality of the product. The most preferred thickness reduction is 30-40%.

15 for raised fabrics with fluff of single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less
Heat press treatment at 0 to 230°C to reduce the thickness of the fabric to 1
If the fabric is reduced by 0 to 50%, the weight will increase, and at the same time, the surface gloss of the raised fabric will increase, and it will become considerably flattened and the fluff will adhere to the base fabric, which will differ from the natural suede-like appearance if left as it is. Therefore, in the present invention, a forced shrinkage processing device for fabric consisting of an endless rubber belt and a heating cylinder roll is used.
By inserting and transferring the fabric in the above state between the rubber belt and a heat cylinder-roll heated to 60 to 180°C, the fabric is kneaded, and by giving a kneading effect in this way, it adheres to the base fabric. The fuzz that had been on it is loosened and it becomes free. As a result, a product with a quality close to that of natural suede is obtained. As a result of this kneading treatment, the raised fabric, which had been flattened and had a strong luster and hard texture due to the previous high-temperature heat press treatment, lost its strong luster, improved its hard texture, and slightly recovered its thickness. However, there is no problem in terms of the effect of increasing the weight, and the result is a product with a weight and soft texture close to that of natural suede.

In addition, before or after this forced shrinkage processing or hot press processing, or before or after, if necessary, a small amount of fiber finishing resin 3 such as polyurethane resin may be applied to control the texture or to add a water repellent.

There is no problem in using ordinary means to further improve the quality of the product by adding finishing aids such as antistatic agents or softeners together or alone.

Furthermore, when using an embossing calendar with a rough texture such as cowhide during heat press processing, or using a transfer printing machine with a texture of cowhide, etc., transfer printing can be performed at the same time as heat press using transfer printing paper printed with a texture of cowhide or other texture. By performing these steps, it is possible to obtain a quality that is even closer to that of suede, and these methods are useful for further enhancing the effects of the present invention.

As an apparatus for forced shrinkage of fabric used in the present invention, a Camfit machine manufactured by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd., which is an apparatus found in Japanese Patent Publication No. 4113419, is considered to have a high forced shrinkage rate and is suitable for implementing the method of the present invention.

A sanphorization machine developed by Cruet Peabody Co., Ltd., or a forced contraction device similar to these may also be used. The main purpose of the forced shrinkage processing device for fabrics used in the present invention is to give a kneading effect, so there is no need to significantly shrink the fabric with one processing device and then fix it in that contracted state. Simply hang it up and pull it out to near its original state so that the amount of potential shrinkage remains on the fabric. This forced contraction/elongation has a significant effect on the kneading effect, thus achieving the object of the present invention. In addition, by heating the cylinder roll of the forced shrinkage processing device to 60 to 180°C, thermoplastic synthetic fibers can be easily deformed by 5 to 25%.
A certain degree of forced contraction can be easily performed.

It also has a large effect on the kneading effect.

The present invention has one or more configurations, and with this configuration, it is possible to improve the feel of a raised fabric to a quality close to that of natural suede.

Next, the method of the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto in any way.

Example 1 Polyester false twisted yarn 75 denier/36 as warp
S for filament (filament fineness approx. 2 denier)
A material that has been twisted an additional 350 times is used.

Polyester filament yarn 55 denier/ as weft
A 5-ply satin fabric with double wefts on both sides was woven using a 196 filament (0.28 denier filament fineness) twisted yarn that had been twisted 280 times/m.

Width after weaving is 175cm, warp density is 110/inch, weft density is 178/inch, weight per 1% is 86g.
Met. After weaving, we undergo two rounds of relaxation and refinement.
It was then dyed in a brown hue using a jet dyer using a disperse dye. After dyeing, dry at 170°C using a pin tenter.
A wrinkle removal cent of 0 seconds was performed.

Next, using a hydraulic needle cloth raising machine, the front side was raised 10 times and the back side was raised 4 times, so that the front side had more short fluffs on the entire surface, and the back side had a slightly lower fluff density. In the raising process, in order to produce particularly short fluff with a high density, a slightly stronger tension was applied to the cloth than under the two-lightning raising condition, and the number of times of raising was increased under the weaker raising condition. After raising, heat centing was performed at 180° C. for 40 seconds using a pin tenter in order to remove wrinkles, align the inside, and improve dimensional stability. At this time, the napped fabric 111 is 132 cm, the thickness is 0.67 mm, and the basis weight is 1.
24 g/rd, the warp density was 146 threads/inch, and the weft density was 192 threads/inch.

Next, using a transfer printing machine, a transfer paper with the wrinkles between the cowhide leather printed entirely in a dark brown hue using an ordinary disperse dye was sandwiched between the surface of the raised fabric and a heated roll.

Heat press treatment was performed continuously. The surface temperature of the heat roll is 2
The 15°C treatment time was 38 seconds. The thickness after the hot press treatment was 0.41 mm, which was a thickness reduction of about 39%. The surface of this raised fabric has a very strong luster, with the wrinkles between the cowhide being transferred to the entire surface.

The fluff on the surface was almost completely embedded in the base fabric. Although the feel of weight was sufficiently felt compared to before hot pressing, the texture was paper-like and different from natural suede.

Next, as a fabric forced contraction processing apparatus consisting of an endless rubber belt and a heated cylinder roll, a fabric forced contraction processing apparatus manufactured by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd., namely, a cam fit processing fi
Using Type E, the above fabric was also kneaded. Regarding the processing conditions at this time, the thickness of the rubber belt was about 50 mm, the temperature of the heat cylinder roll was 120 ° C, the compression of the rubber belt was about 50 mm to 40 mm, and the cloth was 10 mm thick.
Processed at m/min. When inserting the fabric between the rubber heald and the thermal cylinder roll, a slight tension was applied to prevent sagging and wrinkles at the ears, etc., and the fabric was inserted so that one surface was in contact with the rubber bell 1-. This forced shrinkage condition is such that the fabric is forced to shrink by about 20% for plain fabrics that have a large number of crimps and are easily shrinkable. When taking out the woven fabric introduced into the processing machine, a slight tension was applied while leaving some latent shrinkage. The thickness of the fabric of the present invention, which was subjected to kneading treatment using a forced shrinkage processing device in this manner and was given a kneading effect, was 0.43 mm.

Although a thickness recovery of about 5% was observed after the hot press treatment, the rate of decrease in the thickness from before the hot press treatment was about 36%. At this time, the inside is 133cm and the weight is 123g.
/n? The warp density is 145 threads/inch, the weft density is 194 threads/inch, and the strong luster before the forced shrinkage process has been reduced to a moderate luster. The material was not paper-like, but had drapability, a double-weight feel, and a soft texture, and combined with the color pattern between the cowhide leather, it was close to a natural suede product. What's more, it's double woven and brushed on both sides.

The touch on the back can be felt on the front as well.

The texture was rated 5 because the feel of the ultrafine fibers was fully exhibited.

Because it has double strength, it has no problem in being used as clothing even though it is a thin, brushed material, and it also has excellent dimensional stability after washing.

For comparison purposes, I tried to create one without the heat press treatment, but it did not have the appropriate shine and texture, and when evaluated in terms of the state of fluff and the state of the base fabric, it was a cotton flannelette. The result was something close to that of natural suede, but fluffy and weightless.

Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 150 to 2 to reduce the thickness by 10 to 50% to a raised fabric having fluff with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less
The fabric was subjected to a heat press treatment at a temperature of 30°C, and then the fabric was placed between the rubber belt and the heated cylinder-roll heated to 60 to 180°C using a fabric forced shrinkage processing device consisting of an endless rubber heald and a heated cylinder roll. 1. A method for improving the feel of a raised fabric, characterized in that the fabric is kneaded by inserting and transferring.