JPH038860A - Stone wash-like repellent resilient finish of silk woven or knit fabric - Google Patents
Stone wash-like repellent resilient finish of silk woven or knit fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH038860A JPH038860A JP13766489A JP13766489A JPH038860A JP H038860 A JPH038860 A JP H038860A JP 13766489 A JP13766489 A JP 13766489A JP 13766489 A JP13766489 A JP 13766489A JP H038860 A JPH038860 A JP H038860A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- silk
- fabric
- woven
- finishing
- knit fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 39
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 title claims description 4
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 title claims description 4
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 title abstract description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- LEQAOMBKQFMDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N glyoxal Chemical compound O=CC=O LEQAOMBKQFMDFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 229940015043 glyoxal Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002752 cationic softener Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000003287 bathing Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 10
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 4
- 206010016256 fatigue Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 210000003141 lower extremity Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229920000877 Melamine resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 206010061592 cardiac fibrillation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002600 fibrillogenic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- YAMHXTCMCPHKLN-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidazolidin-2-one Chemical compound O=C1NCCN1 YAMHXTCMCPHKLN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- JDSHMPZPIAZGSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N melamine Chemical compound NC1=NC(N)=NC(N)=N1 JDSHMPZPIAZGSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004669 nonionic softener Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
（産業上の利用分野）
本発明は、絹織編物のストーンウオブジェ調反撥仕上方
法に係り、更に詳しくは、ローブ状の皺、擦れ形状の斑
のない新規な外観及び風合をもつ絹織編物のストーンウ
ォッシュ調反撥仕上品の製造方法に関するものである。Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a method for finishing a silk woven or knitted material with stonework object-like repellency, and more specifically, to provide a new appearance free from lobe-like wrinkles and scuff-like spots. The present invention also relates to a method for producing a stone-washed, repellent finished product of silk woven or knitted fabric having a texture.
（従来技術とその問題点）
従来、天然木綿の洗いざらし感と着古し感覚をもつスト
ーンウォッシュ調仕上は、石、棒等で布帛を叩く事によ
り行われてきた。この方法は皺の発生がなく、非常にナ
チュラルな風合が得られるが、工業的に大量生産出来な
いという問題があった。(Prior art and its problems) Conventionally, the stonewashed finish that gives natural cotton a washed-out and worn-out feel has been achieved by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. Although this method does not cause wrinkles and provides a very natural texture, it has the problem that it cannot be industrially mass-produced.
そこで、上記の問題点を解決するために、工業的には液
流染色機、ウィンス、ロータリーワッシャー等で布帛を
揉む事でストーンウォッシュ調仕上が行われてきた。特
に液流染色機が生産性の面や、無張力状態で揉み効果が
作用することによりナチュラルな感じに仕上がる為、−
役向に採用されてきた。この液流染色機による加工は、
綿、ナイロン、ポリエステル、アセテート等の素材に広
く適用されているが、絹織編物の様な高級品に適用した
場合、ロープ状の皺、擦れ形状の斑等が目立ち、商品価
値の低いものしか作れないという問題があった。Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, industrially, a stone-washed finish has been achieved by rubbing the fabric with a jet dyer, a wince, a rotary washer, etc. In particular, the jet dyeing machine is effective in terms of productivity, and because it creates a natural-looking finish due to the rolling effect in the non-tension state.
He has been hired for the role. The processing using this jet dyeing machine is
It is widely applied to materials such as cotton, nylon, polyester, and acetate, but when applied to high-quality products such as silk woven and knitted fabrics, rope-like wrinkles and scratch-shaped spots become noticeable, and only those with low commercial value are used. The problem was that it couldn't be made.
本発明は、液流染色機にて絹織編物のストーンウォッシ
ュ調仕上を行う場合における上記の問題を解決せんとし
てなされたものであり、皺が均一で擦れ形状の斑のない
立毛状態と、しかも反撥感があり絹特有のソフトな肌ざ
わりを有するストーンウォッシュ調絹織編製品の仕上方
法の提供を目的とするものである。The present invention was made in an attempt to solve the above-mentioned problems when performing a stonewash finish on silk woven and knitted materials using a jet dyeing machine. The object of the present invention is to provide a method for finishing a stonewashed silk woven product that has a feeling of repulsion and a soft touch characteristic of silk.
（問題点を解決するための手段）
上述の目的は、絹織編物に仕上剤を付与し、次いで浴中
柔軟剤の存在下液流染色機で揉み加工し、しかる後タン
ブラ−乾燥機で乾燥することを特徴とする絹織編物のス
トーンウォッシュ調反撥仕上方法により達成される。(Means for Solving the Problems) The above purpose is to apply a finishing agent to a silk woven or knitted fabric, then rub it in a jet dyeing machine in the presence of a softener in a bath, and then dry it in a tumble dryer. This is achieved by a stonewash-like repellent finishing method for silk woven and knitted fabrics, which is characterized by the following.
更に本発明方法について詳細に述べる。Further, the method of the present invention will be described in detail.
本発明方法でいう絹織編物とは、生糸または絹紡糸単独
、またはそれ等と他の天然ｍ維、合成繊維の混紡あるい
は交織による織物及び編物が挙げられ、これらの繊維構
造物を構成する経糸、緯糸の番手、密度は液流染色機加
工で組織乱れの発生しないものであれば特に限定されな
い。また絹織編物における絹の構成比率は特に限定され
ないが、絹特有のソフトな肌ざわりを得る為には５０％
以上の構成比率が好ましい。そして該絹織編物は公知の
方法により、糊抜、精練、染色、フィックス処理等の前
処理が行われる。Silk woven and knitted fabrics as used in the method of the present invention include woven and knitted fabrics made by using raw silk or spun silk alone, or blending or interweaving these with other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and the warps constituting these fiber structures. The weft count and density are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue disturbance when processed with a jet dyeing machine. In addition, the composition ratio of silk in silk woven and knitted fabrics is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain the soft feel peculiar to silk, 50%
The above composition ratio is preferable. The silk woven or knitted fabric is subjected to pre-treatments such as desizing, scouring, dyeing, fixing, etc. by known methods.
本発明方法において、仕上剤としては柔軟剤、シリコン
系風合調整剤及び必要に応じて樹脂が使用される。柔軟
剤としては、カチオン系、非イオン系柔軟剤が使用出来
るが、繊維に対する吸着性のよいカチオン系柔軟剤が好
ましく、付着量は絹織編物の重量に対して０．２〜１．
５％がよい。柔軟剤と組合わせて用いるシリコン系の風
合調整剤としてはアミノシリコンが好ましく、付Ｈａは
Ｍ織編物に対して０．１〜１．０％がよい。また、生糸
を用いた絹ａ編物の場合は液流染色機加工時のフィブリ
ル化が大きい為皺が発生しやすいので、カチオン系柔軟
剤とアミノシリコンに加えて樹脂を併用する事が好まし
い。樹脂としては、グリオキザール系、メラミン系、エ
チレン尿素系、ウロン系等が使用出来るが、グリオキザ
ール系樹脂が風合上好ましく、付着量は絹織編物の０．
９〜２．０％がよい。上記絹織編物に仕上剤を付与する
に際しては、通常のパッド装置を用い、常法に従って乾
燥し、樹脂を併用した場合にはキユアリングを行う。In the method of the present invention, as finishing agents, softeners, silicone-based texture modifiers and, if necessary, resins are used. As the softener, cationic and nonionic softeners can be used, but cationic softeners with good adsorption to fibers are preferred, and the amount of adhesion is 0.2 to 1.0% based on the weight of the silk fabric.
5% is good. As the silicone-based texture control agent used in combination with the softener, amino silicone is preferred, and the Ha content is preferably 0.1 to 1.0% with respect to the M woven or knitted fabric. In addition, in the case of silk A-knitted fabrics using raw silk, wrinkles are likely to occur due to large fibrillation during processing with a jet dyeing machine, so it is preferable to use a resin in addition to a cationic softener and amino silicone. As the resin, glyoxal-based, melamine-based, ethylene urea-based, uron-based, etc. can be used, but glyoxal-based resin is preferable from the viewpoint of texture, and the amount of adhesion is 0.5% of that of silk woven and knitted fabrics.
9 to 2.0% is good. When applying a finishing agent to the above-mentioned silk woven or knitted fabric, a conventional padding device is used and drying is performed according to a conventional method, and when a resin is used in combination, curing is performed.
本発明方法において、浴中柔軟剤は特に限定されない。In the method of the present invention, the bath softener is not particularly limited.
また使用量は固型分に換算して０．２〜０、４９７ｅ
がよい。In addition, the amount used is 0.2 to 0,497e in terms of solid content.
Good.
本発明方法に使用される液流染色機の処理条件は、浴比
１：１０〜１：５０、設定温度５０〜１００℃でかつ設
定時間１０〜１５０分の範囲が好ましく、浴比１：１０
〜１：３０、設定温度９０〜１００℃でかつ設定時間５
０〜１２０分の範囲が好ましい。上記の処理条件の範囲
外であると皺が斑になったり、織編物表面にピリング等
の欠点が発生する場合がある。The processing conditions of the jet dyeing machine used in the method of the present invention are preferably a bath ratio of 1:10 to 1:50, a set temperature of 50 to 100°C, and a set time of 10 to 150 minutes.
~1:30, set temperature 90-100℃ and set time 5
A range of 0 to 120 minutes is preferred. If the processing conditions are outside the above range, wrinkles may become uneven and defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
（実施例） 次に実施例によって本発明の方法を具体的に説明する。(Example) Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.
第１表に示す様に、６種類の絹織物を常法に従って糊抜
、精練、染色、フィックス処理を行った。As shown in Table 1, six types of silk fabrics were subjected to desizing, scouring, dyeing, and fixing treatments according to conventional methods.
第１表
実施例１
フィックス処理後の絹織物にパディング装置を用いて、
カチオン系柔軟剤（一方社油脂社製、ビクロン２９、固
型分２０％）５重量％、アミン変性シリコン（大阪ケミ
カル社製、テキサシリコン、固型分１２％）３重量％、
静電防止剤（第一工業製薬社製、ニレノン階２０ ）
２重量％、残部を水で１００％とした加工液を絹織物の
目付の５０％付与して、赤外線付乾燥機で１２０℃×４
０秒間乾燥した。Table 1 Example 1 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
Cationic softener (manufactured by Ipposha Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 29, solid content 20%) 5% by weight, amine-modified silicone (manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., Texasilicon, solid content 12%) 3% by weight,
Antistatic agent (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Nirenon Floor 20)
A processing liquid of 2% by weight and 100% water was applied to 50% of the fabric weight of the silk fabric, and dried at 120°C x 4 times in an infrared dryer.
Dry for 0 seconds.
次に非イオン系浴中柔軟剤（第一工業製薬社製。Next, a nonionic bath softener (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.).
ファインソフトＡＱＩＩＯ，固型分１７％）を１ｆ／／
ｌ 用い、液流染色機で揉み加工を行なった。Finesoft AQIIO, solid content 17%) 1f//
1, and the rolling process was performed using a jet dyeing machine.
液流染色機としては竪型サーキュラ−（日板製作所社製
）を用い、浴比１：２０．温度９８℃２時間１２０分で
処理した。しかる後肢絹織物をタンブラ−乾＠機で乾燥
し、実施例１の製品を得た。A vertical circular (manufactured by Nichiita Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) was used as the jet dyeing machine, and the bath ratio was 1:20. The treatment was carried out at a temperature of 98° C. for 2 hours and 120 minutes. The hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain the product of Example 1.
実施例２
フィックス処理後の絹織物にパディング装置を用いて、
グリオキザール系樹脂（住友化学社製、スミテックスレ
ジンＮ８−１９．固型分４５％）５重量％、金属塩系触
媒（住友化学社製、スミテックスアクセレーターＸ−８
０）１．５７ｉ量％、カチオン系柔軟剤（一方社油脂社
製、ビクロン２日、固型分２０％）５重量％、アミノ変
性シリコン（大阪ケミカル社製、テサキシリコン、固型
分１２％）３重量％、静電防止剤（第一工業製薬社製、
ニレノンＮＴ１２０ ） ２重量％、残部を水で１００
％とした加工液を絹織物の目付の５０％付与して、赤外
線付乾燥機で１２０℃×４０秒間乾燥し、引続いて１８
０℃で３０秒間キユアリングした。Example 2 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
Glyoxal resin (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumitex Resin N8-19. Solid content 45%) 5% by weight, metal salt catalyst (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumitex Accelerator X-8
0) 1.57i mass%, cationic softener (manufactured by Ichisha Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 2 days, solid content 20%) 5% by weight, amino-modified silicone (manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd., Tesaki Silicone, solid content 12%) ) 3% by weight, antistatic agent (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.,
Nilenone NT120) 2% by weight, the balance 100% with water
% processing liquid was applied to the silk fabric at 50% of the fabric weight, and dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds.
Curing was performed at 0°C for 30 seconds.
次に実施例１と同様の条件で液流染色機で揉み加工を行
ない、しかる後肢絹織物をタンブラ−乾燥機で乾燥し、
実施例２の製品を得た。Next, a rolling process was performed using a jet dyeing machine under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried using a tumble dryer.
The product of Example 2 was obtained.
比軸例１
フィックス処理後の絹織物を実施例１と同様の条件で液
流染色機で揉み加工を行ない、しかる後肢絹織物をタン
ブラ−乾燥機で乾・Ｗし、比軸例１の製品を得た。Ratio example 1 The silk fabric after the fixing process was rolled using a jet dyeing machine under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer to produce the product of ratio example 1. I got it.
得られたストーンウォッシュ調製品については以下の評
価を行った。The obtained stonewash preparation was evaluated as follows.
外観は専門検査員１０名の肉眼観察により判；ｌ看した
。その判断基準は次の通りである。The appearance was determined by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.
Ｏ：皺の均一性にすれ、擦れ形状の斑がない。O: The wrinkles are uniform, and there are no scratch-shaped spots.
△：皺の均一性やや劣り、擦れ形状の斑が若干ある。Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots.
×：皺の均−性劣り擦れ形状の斑がある。×: The uniformity of wrinkles is poor, and there are scratch-shaped spots.
これらの評価の結果を第２表に示す。The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 2.
第２表 した。その判断基準は次の通りである。Table 2 did. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.
○：反撥感優れる。○: Excellent repulsion feeling.
△：反反撥中や劣る。△: Repulsion is moderate or poor.
×：反射値・劣る。×: Reflection value/poor.
これらの評価の結果を第３表に示す。The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 3.
第３表
第２表から明らかなように、カチオン系柔軟剤とアミノ
変性シリコンを付与した製品は、皺の均一性に優れ、擦
れ形状の斑のないものである。特に生糸を用いた絹織物
（生地隘３）は、仕上剤に樹脂を併用した方が好ましい
結果をもたらすことを確認した。As is clear from Table 3 and Table 2, the products to which the cationic softener and amino-modified silicone have been added have excellent wrinkle uniformity and are free from unevenness in the form of rubbing. In particular, for silk fabrics using raw silk (fabric size 3), we have confirmed that using a resin in combination with the finishing agent brings about favorable results.
また感触は専門検査量１０名の触感により判断第３表か
ら明らかなように、樹脂を使わず、カチオン系柔軟剤と
アミンシリコンを付与した製品は反射値に優れるもので
ある。反ｖ！ｉ感は樹脂を併用しない仕上剤の方が得ら
れるが、生糸を含む絹織物（生地Ｎｎ１）の場合第２表
との結果において樹脂を併用した方が良いことがわかる
。In addition, the feel was determined by the touch of 10 professional testers.As is clear from Table 3, products that do not use resin and are coated with a cationic softener and amine silicone have excellent reflection values. Anti-v! Although the i-feel is better obtained with a finishing agent that does not use a resin in combination, in the case of silk fabric (fabric Nn1) containing raw silk, the results in Table 2 show that it is better to use a resin in combination.
（発明の効果）
以上詳述したように、本発明方法によれば、シボを有し
、皺が均一で擦れ形状の斑のない立毛状態と、しかも反
撥感があり絹特有のソフトな肌ざわりを有するストーン
ウォッシェ調の絹製品を得ることが出来る。その風合、
外観は全く新規なものであり、洗いざらしのラフな魅力
をもつものである。(Effects of the Invention) As described in detail above, according to the method of the present invention, a raised state with grain, uniform wrinkles, and no spots in the shape of chafing, as well as a resilient and soft texture unique to silk, can be achieved. It is possible to obtain stonewashed-like silk products. Its texture,
The exterior is completely new, with a washed-out, rough appeal.
Claims (3)
存在下液流染色機で揉み加工し、しかる後タンブラー乾
燥機で乾燥することを特徴とする絹織編物のストーンウ
ォッシュ調反撥仕上方法。(1) Stone-washed silk fabric, characterized by applying a finishing agent to the silk fabric, then rolling it in a jet dyeing machine in the presence of a softener in a bath, and then drying it in a tumble dryer. Repellent finishing method.
必要に応じてグリオキザール系樹脂であることを特徴と
する第１項記載の仕上方法。(2) The finishing method according to item 1, wherein the finishing agent is a cationic softener, an amino silicone, and optionally a glyoxal resin.
０、設定温度５０〜１００℃でかつ設定時間が１０〜１
５０分の範囲であることを特徴とする第１項記載の仕上
方法。(3) Processing conditions of jet dyeing machine are bath ratio 1:10 to 1:5.
0, set temperature 50~100℃ and set time 10~1
The finishing method according to item 1, characterized in that the finishing time is within a range of 50 minutes.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13766489A JPH038860A (en) | 1989-05-30 | 1989-05-30 | Stone wash-like repellent resilient finish of silk woven or knit fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13766489A JPH038860A (en) | 1989-05-30 | 1989-05-30 | Stone wash-like repellent resilient finish of silk woven or knit fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH038860A true JPH038860A (en) | 1991-01-16 |
Family
ID=15203931
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13766489A Pending JPH038860A (en) | 1989-05-30 | 1989-05-30 | Stone wash-like repellent resilient finish of silk woven or knit fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH038860A (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0617376A (en) * | 1991-11-26 | 1994-01-25 | Unilever Nv | Woven-fabric conditioning composition containing emulsified silicone mixture |
| US7919166B2 (en) * | 2005-10-11 | 2011-04-05 | Kornbusch & Starting Gmbh & Co. Kg | Cationic finished textile material and its use |
-
1989
- 1989-05-30 JP JP13766489A patent/JPH038860A/en active Pending
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0617376A (en) * | 1991-11-26 | 1994-01-25 | Unilever Nv | Woven-fabric conditioning composition containing emulsified silicone mixture |
| US7919166B2 (en) * | 2005-10-11 | 2011-04-05 | Kornbusch & Starting Gmbh & Co. Kg | Cationic finished textile material and its use |
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