JPH06299463A - Production of stone-washed fabric-like silk woven fabric having melon skin-like creases - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a method for producing stone-washed fabric-like silk woven or knit fabric having melon skin-like creases and a voluminous touch. CONSTITUTION:The method for producing the woven or knit fabric comprises applying a creasing processing to the gray product of the woven or knit fabric, bagging the processed product, subjecting the bagged product to a rubbing treatment with a washer, drying the treated product, scouring the dry product with a fluid flow dyeing machine, imparting a softening agent to the scour product, and subsequently drying the product with a tumbler. The processing processes are simple, and can be performed only by changing a conventional stone-washed fabric-like finishing process.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having wrinkles in the form of melon.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Silk has long been loved as a queen of fibers for its unique texture, luster and drape, but on the other hand, it is very difficult to handle because it easily rubs.
Even though rubbing easily occurs, this rubbing is non-uniform, for example, it is difficult to make it appear on the silk woven knitted fabric in the form of a melon outer coat. By sanding, there has been performed a method of obtaining a non-uniform, for example, melon-like, rubbing sensation due to the strength of the sanding of the glued portion and the non-glued portion. However, the number of processing steps has increased,
Due to the increase in complexity, there have been problems such as delay in delivery due to extension of processing time and increase in cost. There was also a problem that the texture was lost.

Further, Japanese Patent Application No. 5-37413 discloses that
A method has been proposed in which a silk woven or knitted fabric is put in a bag as it is and rubbed with a washer to obtain a non-uniform rubbing shape, but it is not possible to obtain a melon with clear wrinkles. was there.

For a silk woven or knitted fabric having melon outer skin wrinkles, an operator grasps the woven or knitted fabric by hand to form melon outer skin wrinkles on the woven or knitted fabric so that the wrinkle does not lose its shape. Although it was packed in a net bag and subjected to dry heat treatment or wet heat treatment to fix wrinkles on the woven or knitted fabric, there was a problem in that a stone-washed appearance could not be obtained.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and is a method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having a melon outer skin wrinkle and a sense of volume. The purpose is to provide. Another object of the present invention is to provide a method in which the processing steps are simple and the steps of ordinary stone wash finishing can be changed.

[0006]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The above-mentioned object is to make a silk woven or knitted fabric crease-processed, bag it, rub it with a washer, and then dry and scouring it with a jet dyeing machine to make it soft. It is achieved by a method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having melon outer skin wrinkles, which is characterized in that it is dried in a tumbler dryer after application of the agent.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

The silk woven and knitted fabrics referred to in the present invention include woven fabrics and knitted fabrics made by raw silk or silk spinning alone, or by mixing or blending them with other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and constituting the fiber structure thereof. The warp and weft counts and densities are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue disorder in the washer processing and the jet dyeing machine. The composition ratio of silk in the silk woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable in order to obtain a soft texture peculiar to silk.

Then, the silk woven or knitted fabric is subjected to wrinkling in the raw fabric, that is, in the woven or knitted state. The apparatus used for wrinkling is not particularly limited, but it includes mangle, heated embossing roll, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-5867.
The fabric described in Japanese Patent Publication No. is clamped between tapered guide devices having upper and lower guide edges which mesh with each other to impart vertical wrinkles to the fabric, and then the fabric is pushed into an intermittent corrugated form to impart horizontal wrinkles. An apparatus configured as described above, the cloth described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-39548 is formed into a conical body and has a cloth width with respect to the rotating surface of a rubbing roller provided with protrusions on its outer peripheral surface which are screwed in opposite directions. The fabric is rubbed so as to be retracted automatically to cause vertical wrinkles on the fabric, and then a pair of feed rollers is used.
A pair of conveyors that circulate at a surface speed that is decelerated from the surface speed of this feed roller is packed in an overfeed form and bent in the direction of travel to form horizontal wrinkles, fixing vertical and horizontal wrinkles. Device, the cloth described in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 52-8920 is folded by a plurality of creases extending substantially in the longitudinal direction, and the cloth thus folded is passed through the first mangle in the form of a rope, whereby the longitudinal direction of the cloth Fold the folds to form an irregular vertical wrinkle, then
An apparatus for collapsing the lateral folds of the cloth to form irregular wrinkles in the lateral direction by folding the same in the lateral direction and then passing through the second mangle, as described in JP-A-1-201573. Examples include a device that guides the cloth to the guide pipe, pushes the cloth into the guide pipe with a stamp rod having a columnar projection at its tip, and pokes the cloth with the columnar projection.

Then, the bag is packed with wrinkles. As the bag for bagging used in the present invention, materials such as polyester, nylon and hemp can be used, but net-like ones are preferable.

The processing conditions of the washer used for the kneading treatment of the present invention are as follows: rotation speed 25 to 45 rotations / minute, bath ratio 1: 5.
The range of 0 to 1: 300, the set temperature of 50 to 100 ° C., and the set time of 5 to 90 minutes is preferable, the rotation speed is 30 to 40 rotations / minute, the bath ratio is 1: 100 to 1: 200, and the set temperature is 50 to 8
The range of 0 ° C. and the set time of 30 to 60 minutes is more preferable. If it is out of the range of the above processing conditions, defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted material. After kneading with a washer, dry with a short loop dryer, a net dryer, etc. so as not to expose the width.

The treatment conditions of the jet dyeing machine used in the present invention are as follows: bath ratio 1:10 to 1:50, set temperature 50 to 100 ° C.
And the setting time is preferably 10 to 150 minutes, more preferably the bath ratio is 1:10 to 1:30, the setting temperature is 90 to 100 ° C., and the setting time is 60 to 120 minutes. If it is out of the range of the above treatment conditions, defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Scouring is performed in a jet dyeing machine, and as the scouring agent, known soap, soda ash, sodium silicate, proteolytic enzyme, sulfuric acid and the like are used. The amount of such a scouring agent used may be the amount used for ordinary scouring of silk. In addition to the scouring agent, a bath softener may be used. The softener in the bath is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in combination with the scouring agent, and the amount used is 0.1 to 0.
4g / l is good.

The softening agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but an aminosilicone-based softening agent is preferable in order to give a volume feeling. When applying the softening agent to the silk woven or knitted fabric after the scouring, the scoured silk woven or knitted fabric is dried and then the softening agent is applied using an ordinary pad device and dried according to a conventional method. The amount of the softening agent applied is such that 0.2 to 5% by weight of the active ingredient adheres to the fiber structure. The woven or knitted fabric thus provided with the softening agent is then dried in a tumbler dryer to obtain a product.

[0014]

EXAMPLES The method of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples.

Example 1 A warp yarn of 140 count twin yarn and a weft yarn of 140 count twin yarn were used and the warp density was 1
Fuji silk having 18 filaments / inch and weft density of 105 filaments / inch was wrinkled by a device described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 52-8920 as a raw machine, then put in a polyester net and kneaded with a washer. The processing conditions of the washer were 30 revolutions / minute, the bath ratio was 1: 100, the temperature was 80 ° C., and the time was 60 minutes. Then, it was dried in a short loop dryer at a temperature of 110 ° C. for a time of 15 seconds so as not to extend the width.

Next, Marcel soap 5 g / l, a nonionic bath softener (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Fine Soft AQ8
0, active ingredient 17%) was scoured with a jet dyeing machine using 1 g / l. As a jet dyeing machine, a soft rapid jet dyeing machine (manufactured by Nissen, Rapid Uniace UFD
Mold type) and a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 98 ° C., and a time of 120 minutes. Then use a short loop dryer to reach a temperature of 110.
It was dried at ℃ for 15 seconds.

Next, the Fuji silk is dyed by a known method, and Texasilicon OP-18 is used as an aminosilicone softening agent.
A working fluid consisting of 3 parts by weight of N (Osaka Chemical Co., 20% by weight of the active ingredient) and 97 parts by weight of water was applied by the padding method, and the squeezing ratio was adjusted to 70% with a mangle, and the temperature was 120 ° C for 40 seconds Dried. Further dry with a tumbler dryer,
The product of Example 1 was obtained.

The product obtained in Example 1 had uneven melon wrinkles over the entire surface and had a stone-washed appearance.

Comparative Example 1 A product of Comparative Example 1 was obtained by performing the same treatment as in Example 1 except that the scouring was carried out in a hanging bath instead of the jet dyeing machine.

Comparative Example 2 A product of Comparative Example 2 was obtained by carrying out the same processing as in Example 1 except that the raw machine was not directly wrinkled and the raw machine was directly bagged.

Comparative Example 3 The same as in Example 1, except that the greige was not subjected to wrinkling, but the greige was directly packed in the bag, and the scouring was performed using a hanging bath instead of using a jet dyeing machine. The same treatment as in Example 1 was carried out to obtain a product of Comparative Example 3.

Table 1 shows the processing steps and appearance of the products obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[0023]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the product obtained in Example 1 has melon-like wrinkles.

[0025]

As described above in detail, according to the method of the present invention, a napped state having melon outer skin wrinkles on the entire surface and a stone wash tone having a volume feeling and a soft texture peculiar to silk. A silk woven fabric can be obtained. Its texture and appearance are completely new, have a rough appeal, and are extremely useful for casual purposes.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A raw fabric of a silk woven or knitted fabric is wrinkled, then bagged, rubbed with a washer, then dried, scoured with a jet dyeing machine, dried with a tumbler dryer after applying a softening agent. A method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having wrinkles in the form of melon skin, which is characterized by the above.