JPH0827659A - Production of stone wash-tone silk woven or knitted fabric having water repellency - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a soft stone wash-tone silk woven or knitted fabric, having a repulsive feeling, water repellency and worn-out washed rough appearance by carrying out breaking treatment of a silk woven or knitted fabric, applying a water repellent thereto and then heat-treating the fabric in a relaxed state. CONSTITUTION:This method for producing a stone wash-tone silk woven or knitted fabric is to carry out the scouring, bleaching, dyeing and fixing treatments of a silk woven or knitted fabric according to conventional method, then perform the breaking treatment in a nonionic softener bath using a jet dyeing machine, dry the dyed fabric with a tumbler dryer, subsequently apply a fluorine-based water repellent-finishing liquid through a padding device thereto, dry the finished fabric with an infrared dryer, heat-treat the dried fabric in a relaxed state with a crushing processing machine or a loop dryer type ager and impart a worn-out rough appearance thereto.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having a soft texture and water repellency.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a stone wash finish having a feeling of being washed and worn out of natural cotton has been performed by hitting a cloth with a stone, a stick or the like. This method does not cause wrinkles and gives a very natural texture, but it has a problem that it cannot be mass-produced industrially. Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, industrially, stone wash finishing has been performed by rubbing the cloth with a jet dyeing machine, a winch, a rotary washer and the like. When imparting water repellency to such a stone wash finish, heat treatment has been performed using a heat set, a tenter, a curing machine or the like after applying the water repellent.

[0003]

However, when the water repellent is applied and then a sufficient heat treatment is performed using heat set or the like, there is a problem that the texture becomes hard. Therefore, if the heat treatment is not sufficient, the texture becomes soft, but the durability of the water repellent is poor.

The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object thereof is to provide a method for obtaining a stone wash-like silk woven or knitted fabric having a soft texture and durability and having water repellency. is there.

[0005]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The above object is to provide a stone wash having water repellency, characterized in that a silk woven or knitted fabric is kneaded, then a water repellent is applied, and a heat treatment after drying is performed in a relaxed state. This is achieved by a method for producing a silk-tone woven or knitted fabric.

The method of the present invention will be described in detail below.

The term "silk woven or knitted fabric" used in the method of the present invention includes woven and knitted fabrics obtained by mixing raw silk or silk spun yarn alone or by blending them with other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, or by weaving them, and constituting these fiber structures. The warp and weft yarn counts and densities to be used are not particularly limited as long as the texture is not disturbed by the kneading treatment. The structure ratio of silk in the silk woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable in order to obtain a soft texture unique to silk. Then, the silk woven or knitted fabric is subjected to pretreatment such as desizing, scouring, dyeing, and fixing treatment by a known method.

The kneading treatment in the method of the present invention is carried out, for example, by a rotary washer, a jet dyeing machine or the like. The processing condition of the rotary washer is 25 to 45 rotations /
Min, bath ratio 1:50 to 1: 300, set temperature 50 to 100
The temperature is preferably in the range of 5 to 90 minutes and the rotation speed is 30 to 40 rotations / minute, the bath ratio is 1: 100 to 1: 200, the setting temperature is 50 to 60 ° C, and the setting time is 30 to 60 minutes. More preferable. If it is out of the range of the above treatment conditions, wrinkles may become uneven, and defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. The processing conditions of the jet dyeing machine are as follows: bath ratio 1:10
~ 1: 50, set temperature 50 ~ 100 ℃ and set time 1
The range of 0 to 150 minutes is preferable, and the bath ratio is 1:10 to 1: 3.
0, set temperature 90 ~ 100 ℃ and set time 60 ~ 12
The range of 0 minutes is more preferable. If it is out of the range of the above treatment conditions, wrinkles may become uneven, and defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. After rubbing, dry with a short loop dryer, net dryer, etc. without making the width.

The water repellent used in the method of the present invention is not particularly limited, and any general water repellent such as a fluorine water repellent, a silicon water repellent and a zirconium water repellent can be used, but durability From this point of view, it is preferable to use a fluorine-based water repellent. Fluorine-based water repellents are known, for example, those having a perfluoroalkyl ester group, Asahi Guard AG-710, Asahi Guard AG-730, Asahi Guard AG-740 and Asahi Guard AG-780 (all are trademarks, Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.), Zircoset SR and Zircoset OW New (all are trademarks, Shichifuku Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Manufactured by, for example, Dickguard A-H8, Dickguard F50, Dickguard F55, Dickguard F6 having a perfluoroalkylsulfoamide group.
0, Dickguard F70 and Dickguard F80
(All are trademarks, manufactured by Dainippon Ink and Co., Inc.) and the like. The amount of water repellent used is appropriately selected according to the type of water repellent and the desired water repellency. Examples of the method of applying the water repellent include a padding method, a spray method, a printing method, and the like, and then drying.

Examples of the apparatus used for the heat treatment performed in the relaxed state of the method of the present invention include a crushing machine and an ager (high temperature loop dryer).

As shown in FIG. 1, the crushing machine includes a venturi tube (1), a turbine (2) for sending compressed air to the venturi tube (1), and an outlet side of the venturi tube (1). The wire mesh (3) provided, a pair of throttle cylinders (4), (4) provided on the inlet side of the venturi tube (1), a scrape (6) for retaining the cloth (5) to be treated, and steam The steam outlet (7) to be blown out and the cloth (5) retained in the scrape (6) are pulled up to draw the throttle cylinder (4),
It has a guide roller (8) guided between (4). When heat-treating the cloth (5) using the crushing machine, the cloth (5) is made into a rope shape and introduced between the squeezing cylinders (4) and (4), and then the cloth (5). ) To the Venturi tube (1),
The compressed air from the turbine (2) was sent into the venturi tube (1) while giving an impact to the cloth (5), and the cloth (5) was struck from the venturi tube (1) to the wire mesh (3) for crushing. After that, this cloth (5) is temporarily retained in the scrape (6), and thereafter,
The cloth (5) retained in the scrape (6) is pulled up by the guide roller (8) to guide the cloth (5) again between the squeezing cylinders (4) and (4), and at the same time, the cloth (5) 5) Both ends are sewn together to form an endless shape,
The above operation is repeated to heat the fabric (5) while crushing the fabric (5) many times.

As shown in FIG. 2, the ager includes a processing chamber (11), a rod (13) attached to an endless chain (12) provided in the processing chamber (11), and a cloth (1).
It has a roller (14) for feeding 5) into the processing chamber (11) and a withdrawal roller (16) for withdrawing the cloth (15) from the processing chamber (11). And
When heat-treating the cloth (15) using this ager, the cloth (15) is hung down between the rods (13) for a predetermined length, and each rod (13) is pulled out by a pulling roller (1).
The fabric (15) is heat-treated by continuously or intermittently moving to the 6) side.

[0013]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below based on examples. The following evaluations were performed on the obtained stone wash preparations.

The texture was judged by the touch of 10 professional inspectors. The criteria are as follows. ○: Soft texture is felt △: Soft texture is normal ×: Soft texture is not felt

The water repellency was measured by JIS L-1018 (spray method) after 5 times of dry cleaning. still,
Dry cleaning was performed according to JIS L-1024.

Example 1 A silk plain woven fabric, with warp and weft 72 count twin yarns and a density of 89 warps /
Scoot, 73 wefts / coarse scouring, bleaching, dyeing,
Fix processing was performed. The silk fabric is treated with a nonionic bath softener (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., Fine Soft AQ80,
The active ingredient (17%) was used in an amount of 1 g / l and kneaded with a jet dyeing machine. As a jet dyeing machine, a rigid circular (manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho) was used, and the treatment was carried out at a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 98 ° C., and a time of 120 minutes. Then, the silk fabric was dried in a tumbler dryer at 70 ° C. for 30 minutes.

Using a padding device on the dried silk fabric, 10% by weight of a fluorine-based water repellent (Asahi Guard AG-710 manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., active ingredient 15%), a melamine resin (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) Sumitex Re manufactured by Co., Ltd.
sin M-3, 80% active ingredient) 1% by weight, organic amine salt catalyst (Sumitex A, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
ccelerator ACX, active ingredient 35%) 0.
70% of the basis weight of the silk fabric was applied with a processing liquid containing 3% by weight, and the processing liquid was dried at 120 ° C. for 1 minute in a dryer with infrared rays.

Then, using the ager shown in FIG.
A heat treatment was performed at 0 ° C. for 4 minutes, and then a tumbler drier was used to carry out a wind-out operation to obtain a product of Example 1.

Comparative Example 1 A product of Comparative Example 1 was obtained by performing the same processing as in Example 1 except that heat treatment was performed at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes using a heat set machine instead of the ager.

Comparative Example 2 A product of Comparative Example 2 was obtained by performing the same processing as in Example 1 except that the heat treatment by the ager was not performed.

Table 1 shows the texture and water repellency of the products obtained in Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2.

[0022]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the products obtained in the examples have a soft texture and a durable water repellency.

[0024]

As described above in detail, the product obtained by the method of the present invention has a soft texture, has a repulsive feeling and has durable water repellency, has a rough appearance to be washed and has a deep depth. It has a certain luster and is extremely useful for casual purposes.

[0025]

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a crushing processing machine.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an ager.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Venturi tube 2 Turbine 3 Wire mesh 4 Drawing cylinder 5 Cloth 6 Scrap 7 Steam outlet 8 Guide roller 11 Processing chamber 12 Endless chain 13 Rod 14 Entraining roller 15 Cloth 16 Drawer roller

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a stone-wash silk woven or knitted fabric having water repellency, which comprises subjecting a silk woven or knitted fabric to a kneading treatment, then applying a water repellent, and heat treatment after drying in a relaxed state.