KR980009568A - Manufacturing method of suede fabrics excellent in rechargeability - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of suede fabrics excellent in rechargeability Download PDFInfo
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- KR980009568A KR980009568A KR1019960028511A KR19960028511A KR980009568A KR 980009568 A KR980009568 A KR 980009568A KR 1019960028511 A KR1019960028511 A KR 1019960028511A KR 19960028511 A KR19960028511 A KR 19960028511A KR 980009568 A KR980009568 A KR 980009568A
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- yarn
- fabric
- polyester
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/533—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads antistatic; electrically conductive
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B19/00—Treatment of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours, not provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B17/00
- D06B19/0005—Fixing of chemicals, e.g. dyestuffs, on textile materials
- D06B19/0011—Fixing of chemicals, e.g. dyestuffs, on textile materials by heated air
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/16—Multi-step processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/16—Physical properties antistatic; conductive
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 재전성이 우수한 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것임.The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede fabric excellent in re-electrification.
본 발명은 분할형 폴리에스테르복합사와 고수축사를 공기교락시킨 극세혼섬사를 사용하여 능직 또는 주작직으로 제직하되 제전사를 총 경, 위사본수의 10% ~ 40%가 되도록 배열하여 제직한후 정련, 열처리하고 염색한 다음에 폴리우레탄수지로 처리하는 스웨드조 직물의 제조방법임.In the present invention, the split polyester composite yarn is woven into twill or core yarn using ultra fine horny yarn in which air is entangled with the core yarn, and the warrior yarns are arranged so as to be 10% to 40% of the total number of copies Refining, heat treating, dyeing, and then treating with polyurethane resin.
Description
본 발명은 재전성이 우수하면서 반발탄성, 발수성, 촉감등이 개선되어 쾌적한 착용감을 주는 제전성이 우수한 스웨드조 직물의 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a suede fabric excellent in antistatic property which is excellent in rechargeability and is improved in rebound resilience, water repellency, touch and the like, thereby providing a pleasant feeling of comfort.
기존의 폴리에스테르 섬유는 그 우수한 특성으로 인하여 의류용 뿐만 아니라 산업용으로도 널리 사용되고 있으나 전기 저항도가 높고 정전기 발생이 많아 제사, 가공시 작업에 나쁜 영향을 미치며 최종제품의 사용시에도 정전기로 인하여 불쾌감을 주는 문제가 있다. 따라서 폴리에스테르에 제전성을 부여하는 방법이 많이 연구되어 왔는데, 그 대표적인 방법이 다량의 폴리에틸렌글리콜 성분을 공중합시키는 방법인바, 이 방법은 열안정성과 내광성이 저하되는 문제점이 있다. 상기 방법 이외에도 여러가지 폴리알킬렌글리콜 유도체로 구성된 대전방지제를 폴리에스테르에 첨가하는 방법이 개발되었으나 염색공정사의 문제또는 세탁견뢰도의 저하로 인한 세탁 후 제전성 상실의 문제 때문에 실용화 되지 못하였다.Conventional polyester fibers are widely used not only for clothing but also for industrial applications due to their excellent properties. However, they have a high electrical resistance and generate a large amount of static electricity, which adversely affects the work during the preparation and processing. There is a problem. Therefore, many methods of imparting antistaticity to polyester have been studied. As a representative method thereof is a method of copolymerizing a large amount of polyethylene glycol components, this method has a problem in that thermal stability and light resistance are deteriorated. In addition to the above methods, a method of adding an antistatic agent composed of various polyalkylene glycol derivatives to a polyester has been developed, but it has not been put to practical use due to problems of dyeing process or loss of antistatic property after washing due to deterioration of washing fastness.
따라서 본 발명에서는 우수한 재전성능을 갖기 위해 폴리알킬렌록사이드와 폴리아미드인 나일론 6.8.12 등의 호모폴리머 또는 이들의 공중합체인 코폴리아마이드 등을 블록공중합체로 형성시키고 이것이 섬유축을 중심으로 하여 동심원상으로 폴리에스테르 내부에 균일하게 배치되어 있는 고수축사를 인터레이스한 것으로서 이것은 극세사 부위가 루프로 형성되어 있기 때문에 피치스킨조의 우수한 촉감을 발현시키는 것이어서 많이 이용되고 있다.Accordingly, in the present invention, a homopolymer such as nylon 6.8.12, which is a polyamide and polyamide, or a copolyamide, which is a copolymer thereof, is formed of a block copolymer and has a concentric circle , Which is interlaced with a high-number of staple fibers uniformly arranged in the inside of the polyester. This is because the microfiber portion is formed as a loop, and thus, the excellent skin feel of the pitch skin group is exhibited.
그러나 기존의 폴리에스테르 극세혼섬사는 극세사와 고수축사를 인터레이스한 것이므로 염색시 인터레이스 부위에 흔적을 발생시키기 때문에 염색가공에 어려움을 주고 있다.However, since the conventional polyester microfibrillated yarn is interlaced with microfiber and high fiber density, it causes traces on the interlaced portion during dyeing, which makes it difficult to dye.
본 발명에 사용되는 분할형 폴리에스테르사는 소디움설포디메틸이소프트탈레이트를 전체 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트에 대하여 3 ~ 5 중량%를 사용하고, 물성저하방지체로 이소프탈릭에시트 첨가제와 프로필렌옥사이드를 부가시킨 유기중합체를 전체에 대하여 05~2 중량% 첨가시킨 개질 공중합체를 250~270℃, 2000~4000m/min으로 방사하여 16 분할 후 섬도가 0.05~0.5 데니어인 극세사이며, 고수축폴리에스테르사는 에틸렌테레프탈레이트를 주성분으로 하는 폴리에스테르에 고수축성을 부여하기 위해 디카본산 성분으로서 테레프탈산과 에틸렌글리콜을 반응시켜 제조된 에틸렌테레프탈레이트를, 디올성분으로 에틸렌글리콜 성분을 사용하였으며 디카본산성분과 디올성분을 통상의 방법으로 에스테르 교환반응을 행하여 고수축 폴리에스테르를 용융방사하여 제조하였으며, 분할형 폴리에스테르사와 고수축폴리에스테르사를 인터레이스할 경우 인터레이스 부위에 자국이 발생하므로 본 발명에서는 인터레이스 대신에 에어밍글링을 사용하여 폴리에스테르 극세혼섬사를 제조하였다.The splittable polyester yarn used in the present invention is obtained by using sodium sulfodimethyl isophthalate in an amount of 3 to 5% by weight based on the total amount of the polyethylene terephthalate and an organic polymer obtained by adding a sheet additive and propylene oxide to the isophthalic In a total amount of 05 to 2% by weight was spun at a temperature of 250 to 270 DEG C and 2000 to 4000 m / min to obtain a microfine yarn having a fineness of 0.05 to 0.5 denier after being divided into 16 parts, and the high-shrinkage polyester yarn was an ethylene terephthalate Ethylene terephthalate prepared by reacting terephthalic acid with ethylene glycol as a dicarboxylic acid component in order to impart high viscosity to the polyester as a main component is obtained by using an ethylene glycol component as a diol component and a dicarboxylic acid component and a diol component in a usual manner Ester exchange reaction is carried out to melt-spin the high-shrinkage polyester Was Joe, in the present invention because the marks on the interlaced portion interlaced occurs when the split-type polyester Inc. and high shrinkage polyester yarn was produced microfine polyester filament using an air horn Ming mangled instead interlace.
본 발명에서는 상기 폴리에스테르 극세혼섬사를 경, 위사로 사용하여 기모 또는 샌딩하기 용이하도록 능직이나 주자직으로 제직한다.In the present invention, the polyester microfibers are woven using twill yarns or weft yarns so as to be easily brushed or sanded.
이때 본 발명에서는 제전사를 총경사나 위사본수의 10% ~ 40% 만큼 경사와 위사로 사용한다.At this time, in the present invention, the warrior is used as warp and weft by 10% to 40% of the total number of copies or the number of copies.
본 발명에서는 제전사의 사용본수가 10% 미만이면 제전성이 우수한 직물을 얻을 수 가 없으며 또 40%를 초과하면 외피용으로 사용하는 스웨드조직물을 얻을 수 없다.In the present invention, if the number of used warp yarns is less than 10%, a fabric excellent in antistatic property can not be obtained, and if exceeding 40%, a suede fabric used for a jacket can not be obtained.
종래에서는 극세혼섬사의 정련을 로타리와샤나 원치로 실시하였는바, 로타리와샤를 사용할 경우에는 봉침된 직물의 겉과 속을 균일하게 수축시키기 힘들며, 봉침된 부분의 미어짐 효과가 나타나는 단점이 있으며, 또한 원치의 경우에는 로우프 주름이 발생하기 쉽고 아울러 이수축사의 특성을 발현시키기가 어렵다. 이에 본 발명에서는 확폭식 다단정련이 가능한 릴렉서 기기를 이용하여 다단정련하였으며 약제조에 투입하는 조제로서는 알카리 0.5~3ｇ/ℓ, 정련제 0.5~3ｇ/ℓ, 소다회 0.2~2.5ｇ/ℓ 등이며, 수축율차이로 인한 루프발생을 촉진시키고 릴렉스의 상하운동을 20~60rpm 으로 조정하였으며, 수세조의 바이브레이션은 10~30Hz 정도로 하였다. 약제조와 릴렉스조, 수세조의 온도는 각각 60~80℃, 70~100℃, 60~80℃로 하여 고수축사의 수축으로 인해 기기 쉬운 주름을 방지하였다. 릴렉서정련기를 거친 직물을 무장력액류염색기로 다시 재축소를 시키게 되면 감량공정에서 얻을 수 있는 촉감보다 더 양호한 촉감을 루프발현과 촉진된 극세사의 분할로 얻을 수 있다.In the past, refinement of a microfibrous yarn has been carried out with the help of rotary and shana. In the case of using a rotary washer, it is difficult to uniformly shrink the outer surface and the inner side of the sewn fabric, It is difficult for the rope wrinkles to occur and it is difficult to exhibit the characteristics of the wastewater housing. In the present invention, the multi-stage refinement using a relaxation type multi-stage refillable reeler machine, the preparation for the manufacture of medicines includes 0.5 to 3 g / l of alkali, 0.5 to 3 g / l of scouring agent, 0.2 to 2.5 g / The loops due to the difference in shrinkage rate were promoted and the up / down movement of the relaxation was adjusted to 20 ~ 60 rpm, and the vibration of the water bath was 10 ~ 30Hz. The temperature of drug preparation, relax bath, and water bath was 60 ~ 80 ℃, 70 ~ 100 ℃, 60 ~ 80 ℃ respectively, which prevented easy wrinkles due to shrinkage of high - If the fabric that has passed through the Relaxer refining machine is re-shrunk back to the non-emulsion liquid stainer, better tactile feel can be obtained by loop expression and facilitated microfibrillation than the tactile sensation obtained from the weight loss process.
정련, 축소가 끝난 직물의 열처리는 직물의 표면효과를 고려하여 150~220℃로 열처리하며 이때 위사밀도는 최대가 되어서 스립이 방지된다.The heat treatment of the refined and scaled fabric is heat treated at 150 ~ 220 ℃ considering the surface effect of the fabric, and the weft density is maximized to prevent the slip.
기모 공정은 단위 인치당 20~40개의 침이 있는 기모기로 직물표면에 형성된 루프부분을 0.01~1mm이퍼로 직물표면의 루프부위를 가볍게 깍아 내는 것으로서 기모는 또 다른 촉감을 부여할 수 있다. 가량 일으켜 천연 스웨드와 유사한 기모를 발현시키는 것이며, 샌딩의 경우는 250~400 메쉬의 샌딩페The brushed process is a pneumatic machine with 20 ~ 40 needles per inch, which lightly cuts the loops of the surface of the fabric with 0.01 ~ 1mm of loops formed on the surface of the fabric, so brushed can give another touch. And a brass similar to natural suede is raised. In the case of sanding, a sanding sheet having a thickness of 250 to 400 mesh
상기 기모직물을 염색하는 경우에 미리 충분하게 수세를 실시하여 기모할때 표면에 부착되어 잔류하고 있는 물질을 완전히 제거하여야만 염색시 기존의 액류염색기는 장력이 많이 걸려 염색불균염 및 주름이 생기거나 릴과의 마찰로 직물표면의 촉감이 딱딱해지는 단점이 있었으나 본 발명에서는 무장력액류염색기를 사용하여 직물을 수세 및 염색함으로써 이러한 단점을 완전 제거하였다.When dyeing the woolen fabric, it is necessary to sufficiently wash the woolen fabric beforehand to completely remove the remaining material attached to the woolen fabric. However, in the conventional dyeing machine, the conventional dyeing machine takes a lot of tension, But the present invention completely removes these disadvantages by washing and dyeing the fabrics using an emulsion liquid dyeing machine of the present invention.
더우기 염색시 빠른 직물의 순환속도로 인해 물과의 마찰력이 증가하고 이로인해 루프형성이 더욱 양호해진다.Moreover, the fast spinning speed of the fabric during dyeing increases the frictional force with water, which results in better loop formation.
염색된 기모직물을 폴리우레탄으로 처리할때 적당한 수지함유량을 위한 픽업율을 조정 및 건조시 불균일한 수지함유로 인한 염색성의 차이 해결 그리고 촉감의 차이와 기모의 상이한 상태예방이 매우 중요하다.When processing dyed wool fabrics with polyurethane, it is very important to adjust the pickup ratio for the proper resin content and to solve the difference in dyeability due to the uneven resin content and to prevent the difference in touch and the different state of the brushed.
이에 본 발명에서는 수지 처리된 직물의 드라이 공정이전에 미리 강한 적외선으로 균일하게 건조할 수 있는 난터치드라이어가 부착되어 있고, 건조시 장력으로 인한 불균일한 건조를 막을 수 있는 무장력 네트 드라이어를 사용하여 수지처리를 하였다.Accordingly, in the present invention, a rust-resistant net dryer capable of uniformly drying with a strong infrared ray in advance before the dry process of the resin-treated fabric and equipped with a rust- Lt; / RTI >
수지 처리시 맹글의 압력은 1~6kgf/cm2이며 함침시간을 5~15초 정도이며 PICK-UP율은 50~80% 정도이다. 이와 같이 수지처리가 된 직물은 난터치드라이어의 적외선으로 수분율이 30~50%인 상태로 예비 건조 되었으므로 무장력네트드라이어에서 건조할때 발생하기 쉬운 주름과 네트 자국등을 예방할 수 있으며, 난터치드랑이어를 사용하지 않을 때 요구되는 네트드라이어의 장기간 체류 및 고온 처리에서 발생하는 생산성 불량 및 촉감저하, 불균일한 건조 등을 피할 수 있다는 장점이 있다. 난터치드라이어로 건조시에 열원과 직물과의 거리는 20~50cm 정도가 적당하다.During resin treatment, the pressure of mangle is 1 ~ 6kgf / cm 2 , the impregnation time is about 5 ~ 15 seconds, and the PICK-UP rate is about 50 ~ 80%. Since the fabric treated with this resin has been preliminarily dried with a moisture content of 30 to 50% by the infrared ray of the nail touch dryer, it is possible to prevent wrinkles and net marks which are likely to be generated when dried in the muffler net dryer, It is advantageous in that it is possible to avoid poor productivity, deterioration in touch, nonuniform drying, and the like caused by long-term stay of the net dryer and high-temperature treatment required when not used. When drying with a touch dryer, the distance between the heat source and the fabric is about 20 to 50 cm.
무장력네트드라이어 공정에서는 드라이어내의 열풀의 세기가 직물의 촉감에 큰 영향을 미치는데 본 발명에서는 900~1500rpm으로 열풍의 세기를 조정하여 처리하였다.In the silencer net dryer process, the intensity of the hot air in the dryer greatly affects the feel of the fabric. In the present invention, the intensity of the hot air was adjusted by adjusting the intensity of the hot air at 900 to 1500 rpm.
(실시예 1)(Example 1)
분할후의 섬도가 0.05~0.5데니어인 분할형 극세사와 고수축사를 에어밍글링한 가공사를 경사 또는 위사로 하여 능직 또는 주자조직을 만들 때 경사, 위사 각각의 본수의 10%의 제전사를 배열하였다. 릴렉스조에서 정련하고 축소 및 프리셋팅을 거쳐 기모 혹은 샌딩하고 무장력액류염색기로 염색을 하며 염색지를 수용성우레탄으로 처리하고 무장력네트드라이어로 건조하여 스웨드조의 인공피혁을 제조한 다음 대전압, 제직성, 가공성등을 평가하여 표 1에 나타내었다.10% of the warp and weft warp yarns were arranged when twisted or microfiber yarns were divided into fine warp yarns with a fineness of 0.05-0.5 denier and air-minked warp yarns with warp or weft. It is refined, relaxed and pre-set in a relaxing bath, brushed or sanded, dyed with an emulsion dyeing machine, treated with water-soluble urethane, dried with a silk-screen net dryer to produce artificial leather of suede type, And the results are shown in Table 1.
실시예 2 ~ 4 및 비교예 1 ~ 4Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
실시예1에 있어서, 원사의 종류, 합사조건, 제전사사용량, 정련조건, 염색 및 건조조건등을 변경한 것 이외에는 동일하게 하였으며 그 결과를 표1에 나타내었다.The results are shown in Table 1, except that the yarn type, the yarn condition, the amount of the rubbing agent used, the refining condition, the dyeing and drying conditions, and the like were changed in Example 1.
[표1][Table 1]
Claims (1)
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| KR1019960028511A KR100416129B1 (en) | 1996-07-15 | 1996-07-15 | Production of suede-like fabric having excellent antistatic properties |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| KR1019960028511A KR100416129B1 (en) | 1996-07-15 | 1996-07-15 | Production of suede-like fabric having excellent antistatic properties |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100457680B1 (en) * | 1997-08-20 | 2005-06-08 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Manufacturing method of suede polyester fabric with excellent antistatic property and hygroscopicity |
| KR102067223B1 (en) * | 2018-08-24 | 2020-01-15 | 경현물산 주식회사 | Fabrics with antistatic and flexibility |
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| KR100632989B1 (en) | 2005-10-04 | 2006-10-11 | 주식회사 새 한 | Manufacturing method of suedelike fabric having high elasticity and fabric made thereby |
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| JP2890533B2 (en) * | 1989-10-12 | 1999-05-17 | 東レ株式会社 | Chamois-like wiping cloth and manufacturing method thereof |
| JPH04108126A (en) * | 1990-08-27 | 1992-04-09 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Blended yarn having different shrinkage and production thereof |
| KR950000475B1 (en) * | 1993-06-12 | 1995-01-20 | 주식회사 코오롱 | Waterproof fabric making method |
| KR950003497A (en) * | 1993-07-13 | 1995-02-17 | 구창남 | Di-shrink blended yarn and method of manufacturing the fabric |
| JP3210787B2 (en) * | 1993-10-05 | 2001-09-17 | 株式会社クラレ | Conductive mixed yarn |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100457680B1 (en) * | 1997-08-20 | 2005-06-08 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Manufacturing method of suede polyester fabric with excellent antistatic property and hygroscopicity |
| KR102067223B1 (en) * | 2018-08-24 | 2020-01-15 | 경현물산 주식회사 | Fabrics with antistatic and flexibility |
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