JPH01280065A - Stone-washed fabric-like repulsive finishing of silk woven or knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a stone-washed fabric-like silk woven or knit fabric having uniform creases, no scuff mark-shaped irregularity, repulsive feeling and soft touch feeling characteristic of the silk, by applying a finishing agent to a silk woven or knit fabric, treating the applied fabric with a rotary washer and subsequently drying the treated fabric in a tumbler. CONSTITUTION:A tacked silk woven or knitted fabric is treated with a cationic softener, an aminosilicone and, as necessary, a finishing agent comprising a glyoxal resin, packed in a bag and placed in a rotary washer. The rotary washer is operated to flex the fabric in a rotation number of 25-45cycles/min, a bath ratio of 1:50-1:300 and a temperature of 50-100 deg.C for 5-90min and subsequently the fabric is dried in a tumbler.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a stone-washed repellent finishing method for #1 knitted silk, and more specifically, a novel appearance free from rope-like spots and scratch-shaped spots. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stonewashed silk woven and knitted material having a texture and texture: an L-shaped repellent finished product.

(Prior art and its problems) Conventionally, the stonewashed finish that gives natural cotton a washed-out and worn-out feel has been achieved by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. This method does not cause wrinkles and gives a very natural texture, but there is a problem in that it cannot be produced industrially.

Therefore, in order to solve the above problems, five industrial
A stonewashed finish has been achieved by rolling the fabric with a flow dyeing machine, wince, rotary washer, etc.

In particular, rotary washers have been commonly used because they produce a natural-looking finish by creating a kneading effect in the tension-free area. This rotary washer can process cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate,
It is widely applied to materials such as rayon, but when applied to high-end products such as silk woven and knitted fabrics, rope-like wrinkles and scuffed spots become noticeable, resulting in the problem that only products with low commercial value can be produced. Ta.

To solve this problem, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 56-79761 discloses a method of using steam instead of hot water as a heat medium for a rotary washer, and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 58-169
Publication No. 564 proposes a method in which a fabric is wrapped in a back-and-over winding, strings are tied at several places on both sides of the fabric, and an elastic buffer is placed inside the back-and-over winding, and then processed with a rotary washer. However, when these methods are applied to silk woven or knitted fabrics, there is a problem in that rubbing-shaped spots occur due to the tendency of silk woven or knitted fabrics to form fibrils.

The present invention was made to solve the above-mentioned problems when performing stonewash finish on silk woven and knitted materials using a rotary washer. The object of the present invention is to provide a finishing method for stone-washed knitted products that have the soft texture characteristic of silk.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The above purpose is to provide a stone wash finish to a silk woven or knitted fabric using a rotary washer, after applying a finishing agent.
The tough silk! This is achieved by a stonewash-like repellent finishing method for fine textured fabrics, which is characterized in that three knitted fabrics are packed in bags, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer. Further, the method of the present invention will be described in detail.

Silk woven and knitted fabrics as used in the method of the present invention include woven and knitted fabrics made by using raw silk or spun silk alone, or by blending or interweaving these with other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and warps, which constitute these fiber structures, The count and density of the weft yarns are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause texture disturbance when processed with a rotary washer.

The composition ratio of silk in silk Ia satin is not particularly limited, but a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferred in order to obtain the soft touch characteristic of silk. The silk woven or knitted fabric is subjected to pre-treatments such as desizing, scouring, dyeing, fixing, etc. by known methods.

In the method of the present invention, as finishing agents, softeners, silicone-based texture modifiers and, if necessary, resins are used. As the softener, cationic and nonionic softeners can be used, but cationic softeners with good adsorption properties for 1a substances are preferred, and the amount used is 3 to 5 M% based on the total weight of the processing fluid.
Good. Silicone texture used in combination with fabric softener
Aminosilicon is preferred as the third stabilizer, and the amount used is preferably 2 to 4 percent based on the total weight of the processing fluid. In addition, in the case of silk woven and knitted fabrics using raw silk, wrinkles are likely to occur due to large fibrillation during processing with a rotary washer, so it is preferable to use a resin in addition to a cationic softener and amino silicone. As the resin, glyoxal-based, melamine-based, ethylene urea-based, uron-based, etc. can be used, but glyoxal-based resin is preferred from the viewpoint of texture, and the amount used is preferably 8 to 6% based on the total amount of the processing liquid. When applying a finishing agent to the above-mentioned tissue (rolled) material, a conventional padding device is used and drying is performed in accordance with a conventional method, and when a resin is used in combination, air ringing is performed.

The tucking method referred to in the method of the present invention may be a method in which the silk woven or knitted fabric is divided at the seam, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and then the selvedges are loosely bound with thread. hanging,
It is also possible to loosely bind the edges with thread.

Materials such as polyester, nylon, hemp, etc. can be used for the bags used in the method of the present invention, but polyester nets are preferred because they are less abrasive to silk or knitted fabrics.

The processing conditions for the rotary washer used in the method of the present invention are a rotation speed of 25 to 46 revolutions/min, and a bath ratio of 1:60 to 1:
800, set temperature 50-100℃ and set time 6-9
The range of 0 minutes is preferable, the rotation speed is 80 to 40 revolutions/minute, the bath ratio is 1:100 to 1:200, and the set temperature is 50° to 6.
A temperature of 0''C and a setting time of 80 to 60 minutes are more preferable. If the treatment conditions are outside the above range, wrinkles may become uneven or defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the stonewashed look,
It is preferable to put pebbles, pumice stones, pachinko balls, etc. into the rotary washer.

(Example) Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

As shown in Table 1, 6 kudzu silk fabrics were subjected to desizing, scouring, dyeing, and fixing treatments according to conventional methods.

Example 1 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
Cationic softener (manufactured by Mansha Yushi Co., Ltd., Viclon 29) 5
% by weight, 8% by weight of amino silicone (Texasilicon, manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd.), 2% by weight of antistatic agent (Nyrenone 120, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.), and the balance of 100% with water. The fabric was given a fabric weight of 60% and dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds.

Next, the finished silk fabric is divided at the seams.

It was folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and the edges were loosely bound with thread at 10 cm intervals. Thereafter, the tacked silk fabric was placed in a polyester net and placed in a rotary washer.

The processing conditions of the rotary washer were 80 rotations/min, bath ratio 1:100, temperature 60°C, 1 hour 80 minutes, and the rolling process was performed therein.

The hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Example 2 Using a padding device on silk fabric after fixing treatment,
Glyoxal resin (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumitex Resin N8-19>5% by weight, metal salt catalyst (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumitex Accelerator X-80) 1.5% by weight, cationic softener (- Manufactured by Mansha Yushi Co., Ltd., Vicron 29
) 5% by weight, amino silicone (Texasilicon, manufactured by Osaka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 8%, antistatic agent (Nyrenone Nc20, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) 2% by weight, and the balance 100% with water. was applied to 60% of the fabric weight of the silk fabric, dried in an infrared dryer at 120°C for 40 seconds, and then dried at 180°C for 40 seconds.
Cure for 80 seconds at °C.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seam, and Example 1
It was tacked in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 1 The same processing liquid as in Example 1 was applied to a silk fabric after fixing treatment, and the same was dried in the same manner.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent had been applied was divided at the seams, and one piece of polyester net was placed in it without being stuffed, and the fabric was placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rubbing process was performed therein.
The hindlimb tissues were dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 2 The same processing liquid as in Example 2 was applied to the silk fabric after the fixing treatment, and it was dried and cured in the same manner.

Next, the finished silk fabric is divided at the seams.

It was placed in a polyester net without tacking and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 3 The fixed silk fabric was divided at the seams, tucked in the same manner as in Example 1, and placed in a polyester net.
I put it in the rotary washer.

The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and then the silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 4 A fixed-treated silk fabric was divided at the seam, placed in a polyester net without tucking, and placed in a rotary washer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was performed therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

The obtained stonewashed repellent finished product was evaluated as follows.

The appearance was determined by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

○: Excellent uniformity of N and no unevenness in the form of rubbing.

Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots.

×The uniformity of the knee is poor, and there are spots in the shape of rubbing.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 As is clear from Table 2, the products that were coated with a finishing agent, tacked, packed into one bag, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer had excellent wrinkle uniformity. There are no scratch-shaped spots. In particular, for silk fabrics using raw silk (fabric size 3), we have confirmed that using a resin in combination with the finishing agent brings about favorable results.

In addition, the feel was judged by the touch of 10 professional inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

O: Excellent repulsion feeling.

△: Repulsion is moderate or poor.

×: Repulsion used.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 8.

As is clear from Table 3, the products obtained by applying a finishing agent without using a resin, packing them into one bag, rolling them with a rotary washer, and drying them in a tumble dryer have excellent repulsion values. The repulsion value is better with finishing agents that do not contain resin, but in the case of silk fabrics containing raw silk (fabric grade 8), the second
The results shown in the table show that it is better to use resin in combination.

Table 8 (Effects of the Invention) As detailed above, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to achieve a raised state with uniform wrinkles and no irregularities in the form of curls, as well as a high repulsion value and the soft touch characteristic of silk. It is possible to obtain silk products with a stonewashed appearance. Its texture and appearance are completely new, and it has a washed-out, rough appeal.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) When giving a silk woven or knitted fabric a stonewash finish using a rotary washer, after applying a finishing agent, the tacked silk woven or knitted fabric is packed in a bag, rubbed with a rotary washer, and then dried in a tumble dryer. A stonewash-like repellent finishing method for silk woven and knitted fabrics. (2) The finishing method according to item 1, wherein the finishing agent is a cationic yarn softener, an amino silicone, and optionally a glyoxal resin. (3) The processing conditions for the rotary washer are 25 rotations.
45 revolutions/min, bath ratio 1:50-1:300, temperature setting 50-100°C, and setting time 5-90 minutes.