JPS62191566A - Method for finishing pile knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for finishing a pile woven or knitted fabric having an excellent soft feel, appearance, fullness, and high gloss. .

[Conventional technology]

Pile woven and knitted fabrics have a unique surface luster and elegant touch, so they are used as high-quality clothing materials and inch rear materials.
It is widely deployed. Traditionally, these materials have mainly been used, such as rayon, Alechi 1~, cotton, and silk. And, as a finishing method for these, 7J [
In order to prevent the pile from becoming disturbed or falling off during construction, a dyeing method that does not involve rubbing is used to prevent the pile surfaces from coming into contact with each other. Brushing, borishing, and shearing are repeated as needed.

These finishing steps are usually much more complicated and delicate than those for common (non-napped) woven and knitted fabrics.

On the other hand, taking advantage of the advantages of synthetic fibers (dimensional stability, easy care, high strength, etc.), woven and knitted products using synthetic fibers for piles have been developed, but these finishing methods also
The above-mentioned complicated and delicate brushing, polishing, shirring, etc. had to be repeated as appropriate, which was a pain. Furthermore, due to the thermoplastic nature of synthetic fibers, it was extremely difficult to maintain the pile form during the drying process.

That is, drying at high temperatures required a long cooling zone. Passing through processing rolls, folding, and wrapping while still at high temperatures will result in the pile being set and fixed as it is.
The pile becomes disordered and the quality of the pile is significantly impaired.

Furthermore, because of the high rigidity of the synthetic fibers, those with a thick pile had a rough and hard feel, and were considerably inferior in feel and surface quality compared to conventional cotton and rayon products.

For these reasons, in recent years, various studies have been conducted on pile woven and knitted fabrics that utilize the elegant luster and elegant soft feel of ultrafine fibers by using thin fibers, that is, ultrafine fibers.

In particular, proposals have been made for artificial fur that has a long pile length and has the characteristics of high-grade fur.

However, as the thickness of the fibers used as pile fibers becomes thinner, the piles tend to settle and the number of piles that make up the pile increases, making them more likely to get tangled, so a large amount of brushing is required. In particular, brushing with too much force can pull out the tangled parts of the single pile threads (just like when combing your hair, if you comb it too forcefully, you are handling the hair), which can be a fatal defect for the product. Furthermore, if the pile yarn is curled or bundled, it is virtually impossible to finish it by brushing.

That is, there is a limit to the ability to brush a pile woven or knitted fabric made of thin fibers.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The present inventors have intensively studied a finishing method that does not have the above-mentioned drawbacks, and as a result, have arrived at the present invention.

In the present invention, the pile fibers are ultrafine fibers, and even if they are crimped or piled in bundles,
The purpose is to provide a method that allows easy and stable finishing.

[Means for solving problems]

That is, the present invention is a method for finishing a pile woven or knitted fabric using at least synthetic fibers as the pile fibers, which is characterized in that the pile woven or knitted fabric is finished by rolling and drying.

A feature of the present invention is that drying in a higher processing step, for example, drying after dyeing, is carried out by a rubbing method, so that simultaneously with drying, the treated layers can be rubbed to remove the hair of the pile. Conventionally, it was thought that adding a rolling process (action) to pile U [A products] would disturb the pile and be inappropriate, but by adopting this rolling drying method, we discovered that the finishing process was superior. This is thought to be because the processed layers exhibit just the right brushing ability.

The synthetic fibers used for the pile fibers of the present invention can be produced using known methods such as direct spinning, super draw, removal of sea components from sea-island composite fibers or mixed spun fibers, and peeling and ultra-fine peeling from peelable composite fibers. Various methods can be used, and there are no particular limitations. The substrate for the synthetic fibers is not limited in any way, but suitable examples include various ordinary polyester fibers and various polyamide fibers.

The pile woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is one in which cut piles have come out from the base fabric, and includes velvet, coal-topped, sealed, and
Examples include moketsu 1 to tricots 1 to pile products.

If the single yarn fineness of the pile constituting such a pile woven or knitted fabric is too thick, the finished product will tend to feel rough to the touch due to the high rigidity of the synthetic fibers, making it difficult to fully demonstrate the characteristics of the finishing method of the present invention. Therefore, the single yarn fineness of the pile is preferably less than 3 denier, more preferably less than 1 denier. In particular, 0.05 denier to 0.8 denier is most preferred. If it is thinner than 0.05 denier, it is difficult to produce a deep color, or even if it is produced, the fastness is often poor. These fibers are preferably in the form of multifilaments rather than spun yarns. In addition, in the case of spun yarn, when it is rolled and dried,
Hair removal due to curls and piles tends to get tangled and deteriorate the quality of the pile surface, but this drawback can be prevented by applying a polymeric elastic material, such as a binder such as polyurethane.

The pile woven or knitted fabric having the above-mentioned structure is subjected to scouring, heat cera treatment, and further treatment to reduce the fineness of the pile in the same manner as ordinary fabric processing, and then dyed. These process treatments are not limited in any way. After applying a smoothing oil (softener) and an antistatic oil, which are generally known as textile finishing oils, to these dyed products, the dyed products are heated, for example, at 120 degrees Celsius or below, with the pile facing up on a wire mesh sheet. dry. However, the pile of this dried product remains flat because the single yarn fineness is small. If this material is subjected to strong brushing or combing, a very nice finished texture can be obtained, but it takes a lot of effort and effort, and there are also some defects in the pile (some pile fibers may be treated). (difficult to uniformly finish the entire pile surface). In this case, if brushing is done in only one direction, it is possible to achieve a brushed finish using mechanical roll drive and appropriate material selection.

These require more severe management, and brushing only in one direction will give the pile too much unidirectionality, and the characteristics of the fineness of the pile will be halved.

Therefore, in conclusion, mechanical prescription is difficult.

As a result of intensive studies, the inventors of the present invention succeeded in solving this problem by dry finishing using a rotary kneading method.

That is, after the dyeing process is carried out, the coated T fabric is dried while being rubbed and rotated in a rotary kneading dryer 1 (for example, a tumble dryer).

When putting it into a dryer, it is preferable to dehydrate it appropriately. Normal centrifugal dehydration, mangle squeezing, and vacuum squeezing are used for dehydration, and the squeezing rate (water content is preferably 30 to 100%. If it exceeds 100%, the liquid will drip and the finishing oil will adhere, causing the interior of the machine to become dirty. On the other hand, if it is reduced to less than 30%, wrinkles will appear during dehydration, which is not preferable.

The speed of the kneading rotation is conveniently such that the processed fabric forms a large arc, and is preferably from 10 to 50 rl)m. If the rotation speed exceeds this, the machining material will move along with the rotating wall, and if the rotation speed is lower than this, machining and rotation itself will not be possible.
It is not preferable because it cannot achieve a substantial massaging effect.

The drying temperature is preferably 120'C or less in the case of polyester fiber pile, which is often used as a preferred example, and preferably 80 to 100°C.
It is convenient to circulate hot air of 'C, but if the temperature is too high, the piles will be set and fixed in different directions, damaging the surface quality. Further, after drying, it is preferable to stop heating, continue kneading and rotating, cool down to 50'C or less, and then stop rotating. It is undesirable to stop the rotation while the drying temperature remains unchanged because the piles tend to be set and fixed in different directions.

The product thus rotary rolled and dried has excellent feel, appearance, fullness, and silky luster without any further finishing treatment.

As mentioned above, the kneading effect during processing, which is thought to have a negative effect on pile fabrics, was found to be extremely effective on pile fabrics made of thin fibers. .

〔Example〕

The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the following examples.

Example 1 The following two types of sea-island composite fibers were spun using a three-component spinning machine capable of simultaneously spinning two types of sea-island composite fibers (120
0 m/min) stretching (3.1 times, 3 on a 90'C hot roll)
50 m/min) to obtain a mixed composite yarn of 73 denier 1B filament 1~.

Island component] - To polyethylene terephthalate 1 (16 islands) Island component 2 = Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 10 mol% of isophthalic acid (16 islands) Sea component - Polystyrene island Composite fiber of component 1 (80% island, 20% sea > is 36.5
The composite fiber of island component 2 (80% island, 20% sea) was a mixed yarn of 36°, 5 denier, 9 filaments, and a total of 73 denier and 18 filaments.

A pile fabric with a pile length of 10 mm was made using a double velvet loom using this mixed composite yarn as a pile yarn and a processed yarn of 50 denier 24 filaments of polyethylene terephthalate as ground warp and weft yarns.

The weaving density was 47 pile yarns/in, 94 ground warp yarns/146 weft yarns/in.

This fabric was heat set at 180'C and then treated with trichlorethylene to remove the sea component of the mixed composite yarn used for the pile to obtain an ultrafine napped fabric.

The back side of this fabric was coated with a 25% DMF solution of polyurethane using a knife and dried at 100°C for backing with polyurethane. The amount of polyurethane adhered is 10! l]/
I needed it on m2.

In this way, a gray pile fabric having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 denier was obtained.

Pressure-type liquid jet staining Ia (Circular M/C)
It was dyed light brown using a disperse dye for 60 minutes. Further, it was subjected to reduction cleaning using hydrosulfide and caustic soda, and then was washed by blanching.

In this lagoon washing liquid, add antistatic agent (Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd. "Silsta 1~#1173"> 1 Cl/ff and softener (
Manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd. ``Bebina 3783'') 3G/, E
was added to obtain a dyed finished product.

Thereafter, the water content was 100% using a centrifugal dehydrator, and then dried by rolling in a tumble dryer. While blowing hot air at 100'C, it was dried for 40 minutes at a rotation speed of 30 ml) and turned over every 30 seconds. After drying, stop heating and rotate.
The fabric was cooled to 50°C while being inverted, and the fabric was taken out.

This product had a light brown pile and was extremely smooth to the touch, and had an appearance and touch that could be mistaken for chinchilla or mink fur. The pile is gently crimped and becomes a small group of bundles (1 unit of weaving, i.e. 18 x 16 = 1 bundle of 288 filaments), stands up well, shows no sagging or tangles, and has a soft, luxurious fur-like texture. Furthermore, the piloerection could be pushed down in any direction and was almost reversible.Therefore, mottle and lighting effects were obtained.

Comparative Example 1 The dyed finished product obtained in Example 1 was placed on wire mesh sheet 1~,
It was dried in a hot air dryer for 100'05 minutes. I did the first combing with an etiquette brush when it was half dry. The piloerection remained in the form of quite large bundles and oriented in different directions.

Drying was continued further. The piloerections remained bundled and set in different directions.

This product was subjected to Etiquette 1 - combing and raising by checking with a brush and hands.

The product obtained in this way has a very smooth touch, similar to the product obtained in Example 1, and the erect hairs have a small group of tufts, stand up well, and have a fluffy feel similar to high-quality fur. Was.

However, there were some single fibers that were locally raised, and it took more time to repair them. Furthermore, when the finished fabric was spread out, unevenness was observed in some places, and it was not possible to achieve uniformity over the entire surface.

Comparative Example 2 75 denier 18 filament 1 of polyethylene terephthalate was used as pile yarn, and 50 denier 24 filament of polyethylene terephthalate was used as pile yarn! The processed threads of ~ are used as ground warp threads and weft threads on a double velvet loom.
A fabric with a pile length of 10 mm was made.

This product was dyed and finished according to Example 1, and then dried by rolling in a tumble dryer. Although this product had a good pile, it was hard to the touch and was quite inferior to conventional cotton and rayon products in terms of texture and quality.

[Effects of the Invention] The present invention not only simplifies the process, but also makes it possible to manufacture pile woven and knitted fabrics extremely efficiently and stably.

The present invention has made it possible to commercialize an ultrafine fiber pile In product that has an excellent feel, appearance, bulge, and high-grade luster similar to chinchilla or mink.

The pile woven or knitted fabric obtained by the present invention can be extremely effectively used as a high-grade clothing material or an inch-rear material.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A method for finishing a pile woven or knitted fabric using at least synthetic fibers as the pile fibers, which comprises finishing the pile woven or knitted fabric by rolling and drying the pile woven or knitted fabric.