JPH08109577A - Creasing of silk fiber fabric - Google Patents

Creasing of silk fiber fabric

Info

Publication number
JPH08109577A
JPH08109577A JP26631994A JP26631994A JPH08109577A JP H08109577 A JPH08109577 A JP H08109577A JP 26631994 A JP26631994 A JP 26631994A JP 26631994 A JP26631994 A JP 26631994A JP H08109577 A JPH08109577 A JP H08109577A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fabric
silk fiber
silk
cloth
fiber cloth
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP26631994A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Yoshiyuki Hayashi
良 之 林
Kazuo Shiozawa
沢 和 男 塩
Mitsuaki Masuda
田 光 昭 増
Susumu Fujimura
村 丞 藤
Masaharu Masuda
田 正 治 増
Toshihiko Masuda
田 俊 彦 増
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MASUMI KK
Original Assignee
MASUMI KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MASUMI KK filed Critical MASUMI KK
Priority to JP26631994A priority Critical patent/JPH08109577A/en
Publication of JPH08109577A publication Critical patent/JPH08109577A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Landscapes

  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: To effectively impart small random creases high in fashionability to a fabric composed from silk fibers, while the specific excellent function characteristics of the silk fibers are maintained. CONSTITUTION: This method for creasing a silk fiber fabric comprises padding a fabric composed from silk fibers with polyethylene glycol, drying the padded fabric, saturatedly filling the fabric with the aqueous reaction solution of a polyfunctional epoxy compound so that the content of the water in the reaction composition is 60-100wt.% based on the fabric, guiding the reaction solution- containing spread silk fiber fabric into a gas flow treating device in a rope-like state, charging an ordinary temperature air flow to circulate and carry the fabric for creasing the fabric, and subsequently heating the fiber to subject the fabric to a wet-thermal treatment with saturated steam generated from water contained in the silk fiber fabric.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、絹繊維布帛に耐久性に
優れた皺を付与する加工方法に関するものであり、さら
に詳しくは、絹繊維から構成される布帛に、絹繊維特有
の優れた官能特性を保持させたまま、ファッション性の
高いランダムな小皺を効率よく付与する加工方法に関す
るものである。この方法により皺を付与された処理布帛
は、極めて優れた形状記憶機能を具備し、また、その加
工方法は、労働安全衛生および環境保全の両視点からも
優れたマイルドな加工法であることを特筆できるところ
の、高付加価値化技術と言えるものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a processing method for imparting wrinkles with excellent durability to a silk fiber cloth. The present invention relates to a processing method for efficiently imparting highly fashionable, random wrinkles while retaining sensory characteristics. The treated cloth wrinkled by this method has an extremely excellent shape memory function, and the processing method is a mild processing method that is excellent from both the viewpoints of occupational safety and health and environmental protection. It can be said that this is a high value-added technology that can be mentioned specially.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】もともと高級衣料として賞用されてきた
絹繊維布帛は、その優れた官能特性に対して消費者の要
求する物理特性は必ずしも満足すべき水準にあるとはい
えず、高価な生糸相場とその希少価値が高級感を醸成し
てきた一要因であることも、見逃すことのできない事実
である。しかしながら、多様化した各種機能性合成繊維
のアパレル分野への進出から、例えば、(1)着用中に
皺が多発する、(2)家庭での洗濯等の取扱が難しい、
(3)擦れの発生がで易い、(4)黄褐変する、(5)
高価格である、等が具体的な問題点として指摘され、種
々の対応策が検討されてきた。
2. Description of the Related Art Originally, silk fiber cloth, which has been praised as a high-grade garment, does not always have a satisfactory level of physical properties required by consumers for its excellent sensory properties. It is a fact that cannot be overlooked that the market price and its scarcity value are one of the factors that have created a sense of luxury. However, due to the diversification of various functional synthetic fibers into the apparel field, for example, (1) wrinkles frequently occur during wearing, (2) it is difficult to handle laundry at home, etc.
(3) Rubbing is likely to occur, (4) Yellow browning, (5)
High price has been pointed out as a specific problem, and various countermeasures have been studied.

【0003】その代表例として、上記(5)の価格対策
がよく知られている。すなわち、昔から馴染まれてきた
金属錫ないし五倍子等によるいわゆる増量加工の合理化
処法として、アクリル系熱可塑性樹脂モノマーによる繊
維内重合技術が確立され、絹の化学加工技術の主流とし
て広く実用化されていることは周知である。これらの繊
維内重合処理絹繊維は、その増量率に応じて繊維内部に
含有されるアクリル系樹脂の熱可塑性により、熱セット
性が付帯され、ひだ、折り目の付与が容易になり、転写
捺染性が向上するというメリットが確認されながら、処
理効果を相対的に強調するための増量率の増加に比例し
て、風合の粗硬化が急激に顕現され、絹繊維のもつ優れ
た官能特性が完全に喪失されて、その用途も、紐、帯、
芯地ないしネクタイ等の風合特性を無視できる分野を中
心に実用化が推進されていることも、よく知られた事実
である。
As a typical example thereof, the above-mentioned price countermeasure (5) is well known. In other words, as a rationalization method for so-called weight increase processing using metallic tin or quintuple etc., which has been used for a long time, an in-fiber polymerization technology using an acrylic thermoplastic resin monomer has been established and has been widely put into practical use as the mainstream of silk chemical processing technology. It is well known that These intra-fiber polymerized silk fibers have a heat-setting property due to the thermoplasticity of the acrylic resin contained inside the fibers according to the increase rate, making it easy to give folds and creases, and transfer printability. While confirming the advantage that the treatment efficiency is improved, the rough hardening of the texture is rapidly manifested in proportion to the increase in the increasing rate for relatively emphasizing the treatment effect, and the excellent organoleptic properties of the silk fiber are perfect. Lost in, its uses, strings, obi,
It is also a well known fact that practical application is being promoted mainly in fields in which the texture characteristics such as interlining and tie can be ignored.

【0004】これらの繊維内重合技術に対して、やや遅
れて開発企業化された多官能性エポキシ化合物を利用し
た二相法による膨潤絹繊維に対する架橋反応の促進処法
は、エポキシ加工等と呼ばれ、脚光を浴びて業界に広く
定着してきたこともよく知られている(特公昭52−0
38131号、特公平02−053544号)。このエ
ポキシ加工と呼ばれる方法は、上記(1)から(4)ま
での問題点を解消する手段として極めてすぐれ、特に絹
繊維布帛を処理時の原形である平面状の形状をよく記憶
し、優れた防皺性および形態安定性の等の機能を有する
商品として高い評価を得てきた。しかしながら、その方
法による特有の機構を利用して市場で強く所望される絹
繊維布帛の皺付け加工の企業化が極めて難しいことも判
明している。
[0004] A method of accelerating the crosslinking reaction of swollen silk fibers by a two-phase method utilizing a polyfunctional epoxy compound, which has been developed and commercialized a little later than these intra-fiber polymerization techniques, is called epoxy processing. It is well known that it has been widely accepted in the industry in the limelight (Japanese Patent Publication No. 52-0).
No. 38131, Japanese Patent Publication No. 02-053544). This method called epoxy processing is extremely excellent as a means for solving the problems (1) to (4) described above, and particularly remembers the flat shape which is the original shape of the silk fiber cloth during processing and is excellent. It has been highly evaluated as a product having functions such as wrinkle resistance and morphological stability. However, it has been found that it is extremely difficult to commercialize the wrinkling process of the silk fiber cloth which is strongly desired in the market by utilizing the unique mechanism of the method.

【0005】もちろん、もともと布帛に皺の回復機能
(平面の形状記憶能)と皺の保持機能(折り目の形状記
憶能)を同一条件で付与することの難しさは、理論的に
もよく認識され、例えば綿布帛のウオッシュ・アンド・
ウエア加工からパーマネント・プレス加工への発展経過
に見られるような、樹脂加工を構成する標準工程におけ
る単位操作の組み替えを含めた抜本対策の必要性が指摘
されてきたことも公知である。
Of course, it is theoretically well recognized that it is difficult to give a cloth a wrinkle recovery function (planar shape memory ability) and a wrinkle holding function (crease shape memory ability) under the same conditions. , For example, wash and
It is also known that the necessity of drastic measures including the re-arrangement of unit operations in the standard process that constitutes resin processing, which is seen in the development process from wear processing to permanent press processing, has been pointed out.

【0006】したがって、上記エポキシ加工の標準工程
における絹繊維布帛に触媒となる中性塩類の水溶液をパ
ッドした後、乾燥せずに多官能性エポキシ化合物の有機
溶媒溶液内で加温処理する膨潤絹繊維の架橋化処法の改
良技術を確立すべく、本発明者らは、例えば被処理布帛
を中性塩水溶液にロープ状で浸漬した後、遠心脱液して
定量の触媒水溶液を含浸させるか、ないしは拡布状で触
媒水溶液を飽充し、マングルで搾液するか、減圧脱液し
て定量の該触媒水溶液を付与した湿潤絹繊維布帛をロー
プ状に変換した後、多官能性エポキシ化合物有機溶媒溶
液を充填した定浴比型液流染色機中で加温処理する方法
等を、広範囲に研究してきた。
Therefore, swollen silk is prepared by padding a silk fiber cloth in the standard process of the above-mentioned epoxy treatment with an aqueous solution of a neutral salt serving as a catalyst and then heating it in an organic solvent solution of a polyfunctional epoxy compound without drying. In order to establish an improved technique for the fiber cross-linking treatment, the present inventors, for example, immerse the cloth to be treated in a neutral salt aqueous solution in the form of a rope, and then centrifuge and drain it to impregnate a fixed amount of the catalyst aqueous solution. , Or spread and saturated with the aqueous catalyst solution and squeezed with a mangle, or deliquoring under reduced pressure to convert the wet silk fiber cloth provided with a fixed amount of the aqueous catalyst solution into a rope shape, and then a polyfunctional epoxy compound organic We have extensively studied the method of heating in a constant bath ratio type jet dyeing machine filled with a solvent solution.

【0007】しかしながら、これらの方法では共通して
液流染色機内で処理中にかかる布帛の経方向の張力によ
り、予め付与した小皺が消滅する傾向が強く、経方向の
大型ロープの皺の固定は見られるが、ファッション用ア
パレル素材として要請されるランダムに分布された小型
の皺付け加工品位は達成できなかった。また、その加工
工程においても、例えば前者は触媒水溶液の分布斑が架
橋斑を誘発し、後者は拡布状からロープ状に変換する過
程での触媒水溶液の水分管理が困難であり、エポキシ処
理時の絹繊維の膨潤度の相違による架橋斑の要因になる
等の問題が抽出された。その他、作業中に付着した中性
塩水溶液の乾燥による機械設備等への塩の析出による生
産管理面での難点が指摘された。さらに、致命的問題点
として、架橋処理後の後加工工程で、クローズド・シス
テムとはいえ、微量の有機溶媒の系外への流出を完全に
抑制することが不可能であり、労働安全衛生的視点がク
リアーできたとしても、環境保全的視点からは企業化を
断念せざるを得なかった経緯等がある。
However, in common with these methods, the tension in the warp direction of the cloth applied during the treatment in the jet dyeing machine tends to eliminate the small wrinkles previously given, and the wrinkles of the large rope in the warp direction are not fixed. As can be seen, the randomly distributed small wrinkling quality required for apparel materials for fashion could not be achieved. Also in the processing step, for example, in the former case, the distribution unevenness of the catalyst aqueous solution induces cross-linking unevenness, and in the latter case, it is difficult to control the water content of the catalyst aqueous solution in the process of converting from the spread form to the rope form, and the epoxy process Problems such as the cause of cross-linked unevenness due to the difference in the degree of swelling of silk fibers were extracted. In addition, it was pointed out that there was a difficulty in production control due to the precipitation of salt on mechanical equipment etc. due to the drying of the neutral salt aqueous solution attached during the work. Further, as a fatal problem, in the post-processing step after the crosslinking treatment, it is impossible to completely suppress the outflow of a small amount of the organic solvent to the outside of the system even though it is a closed system. Even if the viewpoint can be cleared, there is a history of having to abandon commercialization from the viewpoint of environmental conservation.

【0008】その後、二相法に準拠したエポキシ架橋に
よる絹繊維布帛の優れた物性を再現するための労働安全
衛生および環境保全を配慮した水系での加工方法を研究
し、相間移動触媒を含浸、乾燥した絹繊維製品に多官能
性エポキシ化合物水系反応液を飽充して湿熱処理する改
良方法(特願平04ー030198号)を確立して、布
帛の平面状の優れた形状記憶機能を絹繊維に付与するこ
とに成功し、市場の高い評価を得ているが、皺付け加工
技術としての適用は研究中であった。
[0008] After that, a method for processing in a water system in consideration of occupational safety and health and environmental protection for reproducing excellent physical properties of silk fiber cloth by epoxy cross-linking according to the two-phase method was studied, and impregnated with a phase transfer catalyst, By establishing an improved method (Japanese Patent Application No. 04-030198) in which a dried silk fiber product is filled with an aqueous reaction solution of a polyfunctional epoxy compound and subjected to wet heat treatment, silk has an excellent shape-memory function in a plane. Although it has been successfully applied to fibers and has a high reputation in the market, its application as a wrinkling processing technology was under study.

【0009】以上のように、市場で賞用されている合成
繊維の熱可塑性を利用した皺付け加工布帛に類似した特
殊なファッション効果を絹繊維布帛に付与する方法は皆
無に等しく、僅かに、絹繊維からなる縫製品を、ワッシ
ャーを用いて、独特の洗浄剤ないし研磨剤等を併用した
ストンウオッシュ加工によって、部分的な脱色による視
覚的な凹凸感を製品の外観で強調する方法が知られてい
るに過ぎない。しかし、これらの方法は、天然繊維、特
に湿潤抵抗性の大きい綿デニムからなるジーンズ等への
応用は好適に実用化されているのに反し、独特の風合い
を特徴に推す絹繊維製品には極めて不向きであるばかり
でなく、処理過程で発生する擦れによる商品価値の著し
い低下は回避できず、さらに着用中およびドライクリー
ニングないしランドリー等の洗浄工程で、付与された皺
が容易に消滅する問題点も内蔵されている。
As described above, there is no method of imparting a special fashion effect to the silk fiber cloth, which is similar to the wrinkled textured cloth utilizing the thermoplasticity of the synthetic fiber that is prized in the market, and it is slightly different. A known method is to use a washer on a sewn product made of silk fiber with a stonewashing process that also uses a unique detergent or abrasive to enhance the visual unevenness of the product due to partial bleaching. It's just that. However, these methods are suitable for practical application to natural fibers, especially jeans made of cotton denim having high wet resistance, and on the other hand, they are extremely useful for silk fiber products characterized by a unique texture. Not only is it unsuitable, it is not possible to avoid a significant decrease in commercial value due to rubbing that occurs in the processing process, and further there is a problem that wrinkles that have been applied easily disappear during wearing and during the cleaning process such as dry cleaning or laundry. It is built in.

【0010】その他、絹繊維布帛の片面に樹脂をコーテ
ィングした後、タッキング、ワッシャー加工して、皺が
均一でしかも擦れ形状の斑のない絹繊維を得る方法(特
開平03ー040876号)、絹繊維物の少なくとも片
面に樹脂をプリントした後、仕上げ剤を付与し、さらに
その後タッキングして袋詰めし、ロータリーワッシャー
で揉み加工した後、タンブラー乾燥して立体感を視覚的
に向上する方法(特開平03ー045775号)等が提
案されているが、いずれもある条件下で特殊効果を付帯
させるための加工技術であり、熱可塑性を内蔵する合成
繊維から得られる一般的な皺付け加工とは著しくかけ離
れたものである。
In addition, a method in which a resin is coated on one surface of a silk fiber cloth, and then tacking and washer processing is performed to obtain silk fibers having uniform wrinkles and no rubbed spots (JP-A-03-040876), silk After printing resin on at least one side of the fiber material, applying a finishing agent, then tacking, bagging, rubbing with a rotary washer, and then tumbling it to improve the three-dimensional effect visually. Kaihei 03-045775) and the like have been proposed, but all of them are processing techniques for imparting a special effect under certain conditions, and the general wrinkling process obtained from synthetic fibers containing thermoplasticity is It is a very different thing.

【0011】[0011]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明者らは、既提案
の相間移動触媒として取り扱いの相対的に平易なポリエ
チレングリコールをパッド・ドライした後、指定された
水分量を含有する範囲内で多官能性エポキシ化合物水系
反応液を飽充した絹繊維製品を湿熱処理することによ
り、該エポキシ化合物による膨潤絹繊維への架橋結合が
促進され、優れた形状記憶機能を付与できることが確認
された加工技術を基礎に、皺付け加工方法を鋭意研究し
た結果、架橋結合完結時点での対象絹繊維布帛の形状が
形状記憶機能として内蔵されることから、架橋反応促進
以前に絹繊維布帛に皺付け処理をすることが重要である
ことを知得し、その所望された形状で架橋反応の完結す
る条件を模索検討してきた。
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION Problems to be Solved by the Invention After pad-drying polyethylene glycol, which is a relatively easy-to-use phase transfer catalyst, which has been relatively easy to handle, the inventors of the present invention have made it possible to increase the amount of water within a specified range of water content. It was confirmed that by subjecting a silk fiber product saturated with a functional epoxy compound aqueous reaction solution to wet heat treatment, cross-linking of the epoxy compound to swollen silk fiber is promoted, and an excellent shape memory function can be imparted. As a result of diligent research on the wrinkling method based on the above, since the shape of the target silk fiber fabric at the time of completion of cross-linking is built in as a shape memory function, wrinkle treatment is applied to the silk fiber fabric before the cross-linking reaction is promoted. It was found that it is important to do so, and the inventors have searched for conditions under which the crosslinking reaction is completed in the desired shape.

【0012】すなわち、絹繊維布帛に拡布状でポリエチ
レングリコールをパッド・ドライした後、多官能性エポ
キシ化合物水系反応液をパッドし、一定の水分を含有せ
しめたまま拡布状で湿熱処理する従来の加工方法を、ロ
ープ状で皺付け処理しながら湿熱処理することにより架
橋反応を完了する条件を求め、本発明を完成するに到っ
たものである。
[0012] That is, the conventional process of spreading and drying polyethylene glycol on a silk fiber cloth, then padding with a polyfunctional epoxy compound aqueous reaction liquid, and spreading and moist heat treatment while keeping a constant water content The present invention was completed by determining the conditions for completing the crosslinking reaction by subjecting the method to wet heat treatment while wrinkling the rope.

【0013】また、皺付け処理したロープ状の反応液含
有絹繊維布帛の湿熱処理方法としては、(a)オーバー
マイヤー型キャリヤーに充填して湿熱処理する方法、
(b)常圧ないし高圧蒸熱機器内にセットして湿熱処理
する方法、(c)連続蒸熱機器内で常圧ないし高温で湿
熱処理する方法、等を比較検討した結果、次の問題点が
抽出された。すなわち、規定された水分量を含有する反
応液を内蔵する拡布状絹繊維絹布帛をロープ状に変換す
るに際して、水分量の保持管理が難しく、擦れによる絹
繊維布帛の部分的な毛羽立ちによる品位の低下が発生す
る等が共通の難点になることが判明した。
The moist heat treatment of the wrinkle-treated rope-shaped reaction liquid-containing silk fiber fabric includes (a) a method of filling the carrier in an overmeyer type carrier and subjecting it to moist heat treatment,
As a result of comparative examination of (b) a method of performing wet heat treatment by setting it in a normal pressure or high pressure steaming equipment, (c) a method of performing wet heat treatment in a continuous steaming equipment at normal pressure or high temperature, the following problems were extracted. Was done. That is, when converting a spread silk fiber silk cloth containing a reaction liquid containing a specified water content into a rope shape, it is difficult to maintain and control the water content, and the quality due to partial fluffing of the silk fiber cloth due to rubbing It has become clear that common problems are such as a decrease.

【0014】さらに、上記(a)の場合は充填時に付与
した皺の固定は確保できるが、キャリヤー内の布帛の移
動は極めて困難であり、架橋反応の均一な遂行が妨げら
れ、付与された皺の形状記憶機能に著しい斑が内蔵され
る。また、上記(b)および(c)の場合は、拡布状で
湿熱処理されることが一般的であり、ロープ状での均一
な架橋反応の遂行には極めて不向きである。特に、装置
内部で懸垂保持される反応液含有ロープ状絹繊維布帛の
自重で経方向にかかる張力により、緯方向に出現する小
皺の固定が相対的に減少する難点も見出された。
Further, in the case of the above (a), it is possible to secure the fixing of the wrinkles applied at the time of filling, but it is extremely difficult to move the cloth in the carrier, and the uniform execution of the crosslinking reaction is hindered, and the applied wrinkles are prevented. It has a large number of built-in irregularities in its shape memory function. Further, in the cases of (b) and (c), it is general that the wet heat treatment is performed in a spread form, and it is extremely unsuitable for performing a uniform crosslinking reaction in a rope form. In particular, it has been found that the tension of the reaction solution-containing rope-shaped silk fiber cloth suspended and held inside the apparatus in the longitudinal direction due to its own weight relatively reduces the fixing of small wrinkles appearing in the weft direction.

【0015】[0015]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは、上記問題
点の発生に鑑み、拡布状からロープ状への反応液含有絹
繊維布帛の形態変換を、反応液パッド装置から振り落と
された拡布状原反をそのままロープ状に絞り込みながら
気流処理装置に導入することによって行い、そのうえ
で、前後の反末を結反し、エンドレス状態にして密閉
し、常温の空気流の送入により循環搬送し、十分に空回
して皺付けを促進させた後、昇温して架橋反応を完結さ
せるという極めて平易な生産方式を採用することによ
り、それらの問題点を解決したものである。
In view of the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention have shaken off the form conversion of the reaction solution-containing silk fiber cloth from the expanded form to the rope form from the reaction solution pad device. It is performed by introducing the spread cloth as it is into the airflow processing device while squeezing it into a rope shape, then connecting the front and back ends, sealing it in an endless state, circulating it by injecting an air flow at room temperature, These problems have been solved by adopting an extremely simple production method in which the temperature is raised to complete the cross-linking reaction after sufficiently spinning it to promote wrinkling.

【0016】すなわち、本発明に係る絹繊維布帛の皺付
け加工方法は、具体的には、絹繊維から構成される布帛
にポリエチレングリコールをパッド・ドライし、さらに
多官能性エポキシ化合物水系反応液を該絹繊維布帛に対
して反応組成物中の水分量が60ないし110重量%の
範囲で含有されるように飽充し、該反応液含有拡布状絹
繊維布帛を気流処理装置内にロープ状で誘導し、常温の
空気流を送入して循環搬送しながら皺付けした後、加温
して該絹繊維布帛内に含有された水分から発生する飽和
蒸気により湿熱処理することを特徴とするものである。
That is, the method for wrinkling a silk fiber cloth according to the present invention is, specifically, pad-drying polyethylene glycol on a cloth made of silk fiber, and further adding a polyfunctional epoxy compound aqueous reaction liquid. The reaction liquid-containing expanded silk fiber cloth is filled with rope in the airflow treatment device so that the reaction composition contains water in an amount of 60 to 110% by weight relative to the silk fiber cloth. Inducing and wrinkling while circulating and conveying an air stream at room temperature, followed by heating and moist heat treatment with saturated steam generated from moisture contained in the silk fiber cloth Is.

【0017】以下に、本発明の各工程における単位操作
を具体的に説明する。まず、本発明において加工の対象
となる絹繊維布帛は、生糸のまま製織したいわゆる生織
物に準ずる編織物、ないしは生糸を精練してセリシン成
分を除去したフイブロイン繊維からなるいわゆる練織物
に分類される編織物、および該布帛類を常法に準じて準
備処理した繊維内に染料の介在しない未染色布帛が、
(A)絹繊維を構成する高分子主鎖と多官能性エポキシ
化合物との架橋反応を効率的に推進する、(B)一般的
に架橋構成後の処理布帛が未処理布帛と対比して染着性
を増加し、耐擦れ性の改善による染色作業上の難点を解
消する、というメリットを有することから、最も効率よ
くその加工方法を遂行するために好適である。ただし、
予め該処理加工による変色を勘案して調色された布帛で
あれば、着色布帛であっても適用を妨げるものではな
い。
The unit operation in each step of the present invention will be specifically described below. First, the silk fiber cloth to be processed in the present invention is classified into a so-called knitted woven fabric that is woven as raw silk, or a so-called kneaded woven fabric made of fibroin fiber obtained by scouring raw silk to remove sericin components. A knitted woven fabric, and an undyed fabric in which a dye is not present in the fibers prepared by treating the fabrics according to a conventional method,
(A) Efficiently promote the cross-linking reaction between the polymer main chain constituting the silk fiber and the polyfunctional epoxy compound. (B) Generally, the treated fabric after the cross-linking constitution is dyed in comparison with the untreated fabric. It is suitable for performing the processing method most efficiently because it has the advantages of increasing the wearability and eliminating the difficulties in dyeing work due to the improvement of the abrasion resistance. However,
As long as the cloth is toned in advance in consideration of discoloration due to the processing, even a colored cloth does not hinder the application.

【0018】すなわち、本発明の方法では、セリシンを
含有する生糸から構成される布帛のセリシン定着と同時
に、形状記憶機能の高い皺付け加工を遂行することがで
きるという特徴も内包している。一般的に古くから採用
されているセリシン定着においては、アルデヒド、クロ
ム塩および熱硬化性ないし繊維素反応型樹脂等が応用さ
れてきたが、定着後の風合いの粗硬化とその耐熱水性の
欠如のほかにも、例えば、ホルマリンによる衣料傷害な
いしクロムの環境汚染、定着による布帛の着色等、多く
の問題が内蔵されてきた。これらに対してエポキシ加工
によるセリシン定着は、膨潤生糸へ相対的に長鎖状架橋
結合の導入によるセリシンの不溶性化のため、極めて柔
軟な風合いが調製可能であり、しかも煮沸染料により初
めて達成できる濃色染めにも耐える耐熱水性からも、実
用性の高い新規商品への素材として注目される。
That is, the method of the present invention also includes a feature that wrinkling processing having a high shape memory function can be performed at the same time as the sericin fixing of the cloth composed of raw silk containing sericin. Aldehydes, chromium salts, and thermosetting or fibrin-reactive resins have been applied to sericin fixing, which has been generally adopted for a long time, but rough curing of the texture after fixing and lack of hot water resistance In addition, many problems have been built in, for example, clothing damage due to formalin, environmental pollution of chromium, and coloring of cloth due to fixation. On the other hand, the fixing of sericin by epoxy processing makes it possible to make the sericin insoluble by introducing a relatively long-chain cross-linking bond to the swollen raw silk. Hot water resistant to color dyeing also attracts attention as a material for highly practical new products.

【0019】本発明において利用される相間移動触媒と
しては、取扱いの平易な、低価格で入手できる分子量2
00から400,000のポリエチレングリコールが用
いられ、拡布状絹繊維布帛に、0.01から2モル濃度
の水溶液として搾液率100重量%前後で飽充し、乾燥
して適用される。触媒水溶液は、調液作業上、分子量2
00から1,000程度のものが好適で、パッド時の布
帛への浸透効果からも20℃から40℃に調整すること
が望ましいが、品質管理の視点から、同一ロットについ
ては一定温度を維持することが必要である。また、乾燥
には、工程中での擦れ発生を抑制する配慮が求められる
ことは当然であるが、布帛の潜在歪を助長する経方向へ
の張力は極力排除することが望ましく、例えば、50℃
から60℃の中温におけるショートループないしハンギ
ングドライヤー等の利用が望ましい。もちろん、ポリエ
チレングリコール含有布帛の乾燥後の生地の水分管理を
厳重に行うことは必要である。
The phase transfer catalyst used in the present invention has a molecular weight of 2 which is easy to handle and can be obtained at a low price.
Polyethylene glycol of 00 to 400,000 is used, and the spread silk fiber cloth is used as an aqueous solution having a concentration of 0.01 to 2 mol at a squeezing rate of about 100% by weight, dried, and applied. The aqueous solution of the catalyst has a molecular weight of 2 in preparation of the solution.
About 00 to 1,000 is suitable, and it is desirable to adjust the temperature from 20 ° C to 40 ° C in consideration of the effect of permeating into the fabric at the time of padding, but from the viewpoint of quality control, maintain a constant temperature for the same lot. It is necessary. In addition, it is natural that the drying is required to consider the generation of rubbing during the process, but it is desirable to eliminate the tension in the warp direction that promotes the latent strain of the cloth as much as possible, for example, 50 ° C.
It is desirable to use a short loop or a hanging dryer at a medium temperature of 60 to 60 ° C. Of course, it is necessary to strictly control the water content of the cloth after drying the polyethylene glycol-containing cloth.

【0020】本発明に使用する多官能性エポキシ化合物
としては、例えばグリセリンジグリシジールエーテル、
エチレングリコールジグリシジールエーテル、グリセリ
ントリグリシジールエーテル、フェニレンージグリシジ
ールエーテル、1,4ブタンジオールジグリシジールエ
ーテルのようなジグリエーテル類の単独ないし混合使用
が好適である。これらの化合物の水溶液ないし水系懸濁
液からなる反応液は、一般には3から20重量%水溶液
に調製されて適用される。該濃度が3重量%以下の場合
は、処理布帛の形状記憶機能が乏しく、20重量%以上
になるとホモポリマーが誘発されて繊維表面上に凝集す
る等の風合いの変動要因になるので好ましくない。
Examples of the polyfunctional epoxy compound used in the present invention include glycerin diglycidyl ether,
It is preferable to use diglycerides such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, glycerin triglycidyl ether, phenylene-diglycidyl ether and 1,4 butanediol diglycidyl ether alone or in combination. A reaction solution comprising an aqueous solution or an aqueous suspension of these compounds is generally prepared by applying an aqueous solution of 3 to 20% by weight and applied. When the concentration is 3% by weight or less, the shape memory function of the treated fabric is poor, and when it is 20% by weight or more, the homopolymer is induced to cause a variation factor of the texture such as aggregation on the fiber surface, which is not preferable.

【0021】上記多官能性エポキシ化合物の水系反応液
のポリエチレングリコール含有拡布状絹繊維布帛への飽
充は、20℃ないし30℃の範囲で定温度に規制された
該反応液に生地を浸漬した後、マングルないしは減圧脱
液して、搾液率を80重量%から110重量%にして該
処理布帛に指定の水分量を含有せしめるように調節す
る。搾液率が110重量%を越すと、布帛内の反応液の
移行が生ずると同時に、該処理布帛の自重が増加して、
湿熱処理時に布帛の経方向にかかる張力の相対的な増加
から緯方向の小皺の固定が抑制される傾向がみられ、8
0重量%以下の搾液率になると、処理布帛の圧縮による
扁平感の助長ないし減圧時の生地の擦れおよび形態変化
要因が潜在的に増大し、さらにロープ状に変換しながら
気流処理装置へ投入するに際して、該布帛の空気流によ
る循環搬送の開始までの水分変動が相対的に増し、湿熱
反応遂行時の系内に介在する水分量が不足して、所望す
る架橋反応効果の達成に支障をきたす確率が増大する傾
向が顕著になるので、避けることが必要である。
The saturateness of the polyethylene glycol-containing spread silk fiber cloth with the aqueous reaction solution of the above polyfunctional epoxy compound was dipped in the reaction solution regulated to a constant temperature in the range of 20 ° C to 30 ° C. Thereafter, mangle or vacuum dewatering is performed to adjust the squeezing rate to 80% by weight to 110% by weight so that the treated cloth contains a specified water content. When the squeezing rate exceeds 110% by weight, the reaction liquid in the cloth migrates and at the same time, the weight of the treated cloth increases,
There is a tendency that the fixing of small wrinkles in the weft direction is suppressed due to the relative increase in the tension applied to the warp direction of the fabric during the wet heat treatment.
When the squeezing rate is 0% by weight or less, the flattened feeling is promoted by the compression of the treated cloth, or the rubbing of the cloth at the time of depressurization and the factor of the shape change are potentially increased, and further the material is fed into the airflow treatment device while being converted into a rope. In doing so, the fluctuation of water content until the start of circulation and conveyance by the air flow of the cloth is relatively increased, and the amount of water present in the system during the wet heat reaction is insufficient, which hinders the achievement of the desired crosslinking reaction effect. It is necessary to avoid it, because the tendency of increasing the probability becomes remarkable.

【0022】本発明において用いる気流処理装置は、染
色加工分野で広く利用されているバッチ式湿潤処理機器
として生地および処理液の双方が同一方向に移動し、相
互の接触回数を増幅して、相対的に低張力下で所期の均
一効果を効率的に付与する液流染色機の低浴比化改良機
器として、従来の液体流による布帛の搬送を気体流ない
し気体および液体の混合流によって代替できる機構を内
蔵した装置であり、アメリカ特許3,921,420号
ないし3,949,575号明細書および特公昭63ー
036385号公報等に開示されている機器がその一例
である。
The airflow treatment apparatus used in the present invention is a batch type wet treatment apparatus which is widely used in the dyeing processing field, in which both the cloth and the treatment liquid move in the same direction, and the number of mutual contact is amplified to obtain a relative value. As a device for improving the low bath ratio of a jet dyeing machine, which efficiently imparts the desired uniform effect under low tension, the conventional liquid flow is used to replace the cloth transport by a gas flow or a mixed flow of gas and liquid. An example of the device is a device having a built-in mechanism, which is disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,921,420 to 3,949,575 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-036385.

【0023】気流処理装置による湿熱処理は、エポキシ
化合物水系反応液を含有し、指定範囲の水分率を付与さ
れた拡布状絹繊維布帛を、そのまま気流処理装置内にロ
ープ状に絞ぼり込んで投入し、回転リールで送入した該
処理布帛の両反末を結反し、エンドレス状態にして密閉
し、常温の空気流で循環搬送運転を開始する。すなわ
ち、該装置内におけるいわゆる浴比と呼ばれる繊維と水
分の重量比は1:0.8から1:1.1の範囲に規制さ
れ、そのまま循環処理して小皺の発生を促進した後、加
温した空気流を送入して指定温度まで昇温し、所定時間
架橋反応を遂行して発生した小皺の固定を完了する。
In the moist heat treatment by the airflow treatment device, the expanded silk fiber fabric containing the epoxy compound aqueous reaction liquid and having a moisture content in the specified range is squeezed into the airflow treatment device as it is in a rope shape. Then, the two ends of the treated fabric fed by the rotating reel are joined together to be in an endless state and sealed, and the circulation and transport operation is started with an air flow at room temperature. That is, the weight ratio of fiber to water, which is the so-called bath ratio in the apparatus, is regulated in the range of 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1, and the circulation treatment is carried out as it is to promote the generation of small wrinkles and then the heating is performed. The air flow is sent in to raise the temperature to a specified temperature, and the crosslinking reaction is performed for a predetermined time to complete the fixing of the small wrinkles.

【0024】特に乾燥空気に対比して水分含有空気の比
容積は相対的に大きく、指定範囲の水分量を含有する絹
繊維布帛であれば、投入布帛量に影響されずに、気流処
理装置内の被処理布帛内に含有される水分から発生する
飽和蒸気量で、ポリエチレングリコール含有絹繊維の膨
潤度は効率よく維持され、同時に該ポリエチレングリコ
ールの相間移動触媒機能から、絹繊維構成ポリペプテド
主鎖に介在する官能基に対するエポキシ化合物との架橋
反応が十分に促進される環境が保証される。一般に架橋
反応は、60℃ないし80℃で、30から120分で完
了する。
Particularly, the specific volume of the moisture-containing air is relatively large as compared with the dry air, and the silk fiber fabric containing the moisture content in the specified range is not affected by the amount of the input fabric and the inside of the air flow treatment device is not affected. The saturated vapor amount generated from the water contained in the treated fabric effectively maintains the swelling degree of the polyethylene glycol-containing silk fiber, and at the same time, the polyethylene glycol phase transfer catalyst function causes the polyethylene fiber-containing polyester peptide main chain to move. An environment is ensured in which the crosslinking reaction with the epoxy compound for the intervening functional groups is sufficiently promoted. Generally, the crosslinking reaction is completed at 30 to 120 minutes at 60 to 80 ° C.

【0025】反応完了後は循環搬送処理を継続しなが
ら、冷風を送入して冷却し、そのまま洗浄液を投入して
ソーピング処理し、定法に準じて後処理して仕上げる。
該処理絹繊維布帛は、擦れに対する抵抗および耐薬品性
が著しく改善され、染色性の向上とともに、染色ないし
捺染等の着色作業性が大幅に改修されるメリットも確認
される。
After completion of the reaction, cooling air is blown in to continue cooling while continuing the circulation and conveyance process, and the cleaning liquid is added as it is for soaping treatment, and post-treatment is carried out according to a standard method to finish.
The treated silk fiber cloth has remarkably improved resistance to rubbing and chemical resistance, and it is confirmed that the dyeing property is improved and the workability of coloring such as dyeing or printing is significantly improved.

【0026】本発明の方法において、気流処理装置内で
の処理布帛の空気流による循環搬送中の布帛にかかる張
力は、極めて低水準に抑制できるので、特に織物および
編物の組織に関係なく適用できるが、小皺の発生促進工
程と小皺の固定工程とは切り離して遂行すべきであっ
て、運転開始時の常温での空回しの循環搬送時の布帛速
度および時間等の条件が重要であり、該工程での経方向
にかかる張力によって緯方向の小皺の発生程度が支配さ
れることが、中間工程での検査等で観察されている。も
ちろん、初期に発生した小皺がそのまま最終的に固定さ
れるものとは限らないが、小皺発生の傾向からもほぼ確
定できるものと考えられる。
In the method of the present invention, the tension applied to the fabric during the circulation and conveyance of the treated fabric by the air flow in the air flow treatment device can be suppressed to an extremely low level, so that it can be applied regardless of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric. However, the step of promoting generation of small wrinkles and the step of fixing small wrinkles should be performed separately, and conditions such as fabric speed and time during circulating conveyance of idling at room temperature at the start of operation are important. It has been observed by inspection and the like in the intermediate step that the degree of generation of wrinkles in the weft direction is controlled by the tension applied in the warp direction in the step. Of course, the wrinkles that occur in the initial stage are not always fixed as they are, but it is considered that the wrinkles can be almost determined from the tendency of wrinkles.

【0027】[0027]

【実施例】以下、本発明の詳細を実施例により説明する
が、本発明はこれらの実施例に限定されるものではな
い。 実施例 1 経糸に生糸21中平糸2本、緯糸に生糸21中3本の強
撚糸から構成される18匁付きサテンクレープを常法に
準じて酵素精練、過酸化水素漂白して92cmに幅出し
乾燥した。該拡布状布帛に、ポリエチレングリコール
(分子量200)の0.5規定水溶液を40℃でパッド
し、絞り率100重量%に真空脱液して、ショートルー
プドライヤーにより60℃で乾燥して振り落とした。さ
らに、該ポリエチレングリコール含有布帛に、エチレン
グリコールジグリシジールエーテル5重量%水溶液を2
5℃でパッドし、減圧脱液して80重量%に飽充し、直
ちにロープ状に絞り込みながら回転リールを使用して気
流処理装置内に投入した。導入後、前後反末を結反して
エンドレス状にして密封し、常温空気流により循環搬送
運転を開始し、生地の馴染みとランダムな小皺の発生を
促進させるための空回しを20分継続した。
EXAMPLES The details of the present invention will be described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Example 1 A satin crepe with 18 curls composed of 2 warp yarns with 2 medium flat yarns and 3 weft yarns with 3 strongly twisted yarns 21 was enzymatically scoured according to a conventional method, bleached with hydrogen peroxide and squeezed to 92 cm. Dried. A 0.5N aqueous solution of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 200) was padded on the spread cloth at 40 ° C., vacuum deliquored to a draw ratio of 100% by weight, dried at 60 ° C. with a short loop dryer and shaken off. . Further, a 2% by weight aqueous solution of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether was added to the polyethylene glycol-containing cloth.
The pad was padded at 5 ° C., drained under reduced pressure to be saturated with 80% by weight, and immediately squeezed into a rope shape and charged into an airflow treatment device using a rotating reel. After the introduction, the front and rear ends were connected to each other to form an endless form, which was then sealed, and a circulating and conveying operation was started with a room temperature air flow, and idling for promoting familiarity of the fabric and random wrinkles was continued for 20 minutes.

【0028】その後、加温して30分後に処理装置内の
温度を70℃まで昇温し、同温度で120分間循環搬送
を続け、架橋反応を推進した。反応終了後、装置内を冷
風で置換し、冷却後、該装置内で水流で処理布帛を洗浄
し、次いで、1g/lの石鹸および0.5g/lの非イ
オン活性剤の洗浄液を用いて50℃で10分間ソーピン
グし、50℃で10分間湯洗し、10分間水洗した後、
取り出し、遠心脱液して乾燥仕上げすると、経緯方向に
ランダムに小皺の発生したファッショナブルなサテンク
レープを得た。該処理布帛は洗濯による収縮もなく、皺
付け効果も安定に残り、優れた形状記憶機能が付与され
ていることが確認できた。また、該処理布帛は浸染およ
び捺染において未処理布帛よりも発色色相にすぐれ、し
かも着色後も皺付け効果が保持されていることが観察さ
れた。
Then, 30 minutes after the heating, the temperature in the processing apparatus was raised to 70 ° C., and the circulation reaction was continued for 120 minutes at the same temperature to promote the crosslinking reaction. After the reaction was completed, the inside of the apparatus was replaced with cold air, and after cooling, the treated cloth was washed with a water stream in the apparatus, and then a washing liquid of 1 g / l of soap and 0.5 g / l of a nonionic activator was used. Soap at 50 ° C for 10 minutes, rinse with hot water at 50 ° C for 10 minutes, and rinse with water for 10 minutes.
When taken out, centrifugally drained and dried to obtain a fashionable satin crepe with small wrinkles randomly generated in the longitudinal direction. It was confirmed that the treated cloth did not shrink due to washing, the wrinkling effect remained stable, and the excellent shape memory function was imparted. Further, it was observed that the treated fabric was superior in coloring hue to the untreated fabric in dip dyeing and printing, and the wrinkling effect was retained after coloring.

【0029】実施例 2 経糸に生糸21中平糸4本、緯糸に生糸21中4本の強
撚糸から構成された18匁付クレープデシンを常法で準
備処理して、乾燥仕上した。該拡布状クレープデシン
に、ポリエチレングリコール(分子量400)の0.1
規定水溶液を20℃でパッドし、減圧脱液して110重
量%に飽充し、50℃のハンキングドライヤーで乾燥し
た。次いで、該ポリエチレングリコール含有デシンに、
フェニレン−ジグリシジールエーテル3重量%水溶液を
30℃で110重量%に飽充し、直ちにロープ状に絞り
込みながら回転リールで気流処理装置内に送入し、実施
例1に準じて室温で20分間皺付け処理した後、30分
で80℃に昇温し、60分間熱処理して、後処理、仕上
げして、形態安定性の高い皺付け加工クレープデシンを
得た。
Example 2 A crepe decin with 18-mom consisting of 4 warp yarns of 4 medium flat yarns and 4 weft yarns of 4 hard yarns 21 was prepared by a conventional method and dried. 0.1% of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400) was added to the spread crepe decin.
The normal aqueous solution was padded at 20 ° C., dewatered under reduced pressure, saturated with 110% by weight, and dried with a hanging dryer at 50 ° C. Then, to the polyethylene glycol-containing decyne,
A 3% by weight aqueous solution of phenylene-diglycidyl ether was filled up to 110% by weight at 30 ° C., immediately squeezed into a rope shape, and then fed into an air flow treatment device with a rotating reel, and then wrinkled at room temperature for 20 minutes according to Example 1. After the soaking treatment, the temperature was raised to 80 ° C. in 30 minutes, the heat treatment was carried out for 60 minutes, the post-treatment and the finishing were carried out to obtain a wrinkled crepe decine having high morphological stability.

【0030】実施例 3 経糸に生糸21中平糸2本、緯糸に生糸21中4本の強
撚糸からなる20匁付サテンクレープを常法で精練、漂
白して乾燥した。該拡布状布帛にポリエチレングリコー
ル(分子量1,000)の規定水溶液を20℃で95重
量%飽充して、60℃のショートループドライヤーによ
り乾燥した。さらに、該布帛に20℃の1,4ーブタン
ジオールジグリシジールエーテル15重量%水溶液を8
0重量%に飽充して、直ちにロープ状に絞り込みながら
気流装置内にセットし、実施例2に準じて皺付け処理と
湿熱処理を行った後、後処理、仕上げした。得られた布
帛は、形状記憶機能に優れた皺付け加工サテンクレープ
として、特に未処理布帛よりも柔軟平滑性の高い風合が
特筆されることが確認された。
Example 3 A satin crepe with 20 curls consisting of two warp yarns, two medium flat yarns, and four weft yarns, four hard yarns 21, was scoured, bleached and dried by a conventional method. The spread cloth was saturated with 95% by weight of a specified aqueous solution of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 1,000) at 20 ° C. and dried with a short loop dryer at 60 ° C. Further, a 15% by weight aqueous solution of 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether at 20 ° C. was added to the cloth 8 times.
After being filled with 0% by weight, the product was immediately set in the airflow device while being squeezed into a rope shape, subjected to wrinkling treatment and moist heat treatment according to Example 2, and then post-treated and finished. It was confirmed that the obtained cloth was particularly noted as a wrinkled satin crepe having an excellent shape memory function, and particularly had a softer and smoother texture than the untreated cloth.

【0031】実施例 4 絹紡72番双糸で製編された28ゲージのトリコットを
常法で酵素精練、二酸化チオ尿素漂白して、拡布状で乾
燥仕上した。該布帛に実施例1に準じてポリエチレング
ルコールをパッド・ドライし、さらに、エポキシ水溶液
をパッドして、気流処理装置内で皺付け処理した後、湿
熱処理、後処理、乾燥、仕上げした。得られたトリコッ
トは、小皺が均等に付与された形状記憶機能の高い編地
であることが認められた。
Example 4 A 28-gauge tricot knitted with silk spinning No. 72 twin yarn was subjected to enzyme scouring and thiourea dioxide bleaching by a conventional method, and then dried and spread in a spread state. Polyethylene glycol was pad-dried according to Example 1 on the cloth, further, an epoxy aqueous solution was padded, and wrinkle treatment was performed in an airflow treatment device, followed by wet heat treatment, post-treatment, drying, and finishing. It was confirmed that the obtained tricot was a knitted fabric having a high shape memory function, in which fine wrinkles were uniformly applied.

【0032】実施例 5 実施例3において使用した20匁付サテンクレープ生機
に、ポリエチレングリコール(分子量200)1規定水
溶液を20℃で110重量%に飽充し、50℃でショー
トループドライヤーにより乾燥した。さらに、該ポリエ
チレングリコール含有拡布状布帛に20℃のグリセリン
トリグリシジールエーテル20重量%水溶液を110重
量%に飽充し、そのままロープ状に絞り込んで気流処理
装置内にセットし、皺付け処理と湿熱処理を実施例2に
準じて遂行し、後処理、仕上げした。得られた布帛は、
ランダムな小皺が均等に固定されたファッション性の高
い素材として評価された。また、該布帛は液流染色機を
使用した常法の含金染料による濃色染にも減量せずに耐
え、該染色布帛は従来のセリシン定着布帛に対比して極
めて柔軟性に優れていることが認められた。
Example 5 The satin crepe greige machine with 20 moars used in Example 3 was saturated with 110% by weight of a 1N aqueous solution of polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 200) at 20 ° C. and dried at 50 ° C. by a short loop dryer. . Further, the polyethylene glycol-containing spread cloth was saturated with 110% by weight of a 20% by weight aqueous solution of glycerin triglycidyl ether at 20 ° C., squeezed into a rope shape as it was, and set in an airflow treatment device, followed by wrinkling treatment and wet heat treatment. Was carried out according to Example 2, and post-treatment and finishing were carried out. The resulting fabric is
It was evaluated as a highly fashionable material in which random wrinkles were evenly fixed. Further, the cloth can withstand dark dyeing with a conventional gold-containing dye using a jet dyeing machine without reducing the quantity, and the dyed cloth is extremely excellent in flexibility as compared with a conventional sericin fixing cloth. Was confirmed.

【0033】[0033]

【発明の効果】以上に詳述した本発明によれば、絹繊維
から構成される布帛に、絹特有の優れた官能特性を維持
したまま、ファッション性の高い、優れた皺付け効果を
付与することができ、皺部および平坦部位の双方とも形
状記憶機能が抜群であり、該素材から縫製されたアパレ
ルの消費機能の高いことが確認される。また、本発明を
生糸から構成される布帛に適用すると、皺付け加工と同
時にセリシン定着も効率的に遂行させることができる。
さらに、本発明の加工方法により、皺付け加工された絹
繊維布帛の染色性が著しく改善されるので、皺付け加工
後の染色および捺染加工が容易に遂行できるほか、その
生産工程が極めて平易で、労働安全衛生的にも環境保全
的にも極めてマイルドであることが特筆できる。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention described in detail above, a fabric composed of silk fibers is imparted with an excellent wrinkling effect with high fashionability while maintaining the excellent sensory characteristics peculiar to silk. It is confirmed that both the wrinkled part and the flat part have an excellent shape memory function, and that the apparel sewn from the material has a high consumption function. Further, when the present invention is applied to a cloth composed of raw silk, sericin fixing can be efficiently performed simultaneously with the wrinkling process.
Furthermore, since the dyeing property of the wrinkled silk fiber cloth is remarkably improved by the processing method of the present invention, the dyeing and printing process after wrinkling can be easily performed, and the production process is extremely simple. It is noteworthy that it is extremely mild in terms of occupational safety and health and environmental conservation.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 D06M 101:12 (72)発明者 増 田 正 治 京都府中郡大宮町周枳小字沖1545の1 (72)発明者 増 田 俊 彦 京都府中郡峰山町字杉谷40番地─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification number Reference number within the agency FI Technical display location D06M 101: 12 (72) Inventor Masaharu Masuda 1 of 1545, Oki-cho, Omiya-cho, Fuchu-gun, Kyoto (72) Inventor Toshihiko Masuda 40 Sugitani, Mineyama-cho, Fuchu-gun, Kyoto

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】絹繊維から構成される布帛にポリエチレン
グリコールをパッド・ドライし、さらに多官能性エポキ
シ化合物水系反応液を該絹繊維布帛に対して反応組成物
中の水分量が60ないし110重量%の範囲で含有され
るように飽充し、 該反応液含有拡布状絹繊維布帛を気流処理装置内にロー
プ状で誘導し、常温の空気流を送入して循環搬送しなが
ら皺付けした後、加温して該絹繊維布帛内に含有された
水分から発生する飽和蒸気により湿熱処理する、ことを
特徴とする絹繊維布帛の皺付け加工方法。
1. A cloth composed of silk fibers is pad-dried with polyethylene glycol, and a polyfunctional epoxy compound aqueous reaction solution is added to the silk fiber cloth so that the water content of the reaction composition is 60 to 110% by weight. % Of the reaction solution-containing expanded silk fiber cloth is guided into the airflow treatment device in the form of a rope, and the airflow at room temperature is introduced to crease it while circulating and conveying it. Then, a method for wrinkling a silk fiber cloth is characterized in that the silk fiber cloth is heated and subjected to a wet heat treatment with saturated steam generated from the water contained in the silk fiber cloth.
JP26631994A 1994-10-05 1994-10-05 Creasing of silk fiber fabric Pending JPH08109577A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP26631994A JPH08109577A (en) 1994-10-05 1994-10-05 Creasing of silk fiber fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP26631994A JPH08109577A (en) 1994-10-05 1994-10-05 Creasing of silk fiber fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH08109577A true JPH08109577A (en) 1996-04-30

Family

ID=17429276

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP26631994A Pending JPH08109577A (en) 1994-10-05 1994-10-05 Creasing of silk fiber fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH08109577A (en)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2007236437A (en) * 2006-03-06 2007-09-20 Asse:Kk Method of shaping curtain fabric and curtain fabric
JP2009197386A (en) * 2006-09-28 2009-09-03 Hiroshi Miyamoto Method for processing fiber material
JP2016023389A (en) * 2014-07-23 2016-02-08 福島県 Method for producing silk yarn having crimpability and method for producing silk woven fabric

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2007236437A (en) * 2006-03-06 2007-09-20 Asse:Kk Method of shaping curtain fabric and curtain fabric
JP2009197386A (en) * 2006-09-28 2009-09-03 Hiroshi Miyamoto Method for processing fiber material
JPWO2008041570A1 (en) * 2006-09-28 2010-02-04 宮本 博 Textile material for post dyeing
JP2016023389A (en) * 2014-07-23 2016-02-08 福島県 Method for producing silk yarn having crimpability and method for producing silk woven fabric

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US2950553A (en) Method of producing wrinkle resistant garments and other manufactured articles of cotton-containing fabrics
EP3494254B1 (en) Non-iron fabrics and garments, and a method of finishing the same
US2685120A (en) Fabric having contoured decorative surface
US3458869A (en) Method of producing press-free garments and products thereof
JP4031365B2 (en) Manufacture of dyed lyocell clothing
US2161223A (en) Production of textile fabrics in formed printed patterns
US5653770A (en) Antique-looking and feeling fabrics and garments and method of making same
US3574520A (en) Treating cellulosic garments with a s-trimethylol triazine triol,buffered magnesium chloride,and methylol stearamide
JPH08109577A (en) Creasing of silk fiber fabric
Gokarneshan et al. Chemical finishing and washing of knit wear.
Reid et al. Durable Creasing of Wrinkle Resistant Cotton1
JP5032026B2 (en) Method for producing fiber product having wrinkles and / or wrinkles
JPH0140149B2 (en)
US3891389A (en) Shrinkage-control treatment for knitted fabrics
WO2002103104A2 (en) Dyeing and finishing of lyocell fabrics
JP5444407B2 (en) Method for producing fiber product having wrinkles and / or wrinkles
Payet ALMI-Set Process: A New Approach to Carefree Garments
Hurwitz The Application of Wrinkle-Resistant Finishes to Cotton Garments
JP2580422B2 (en) Functionality processing method for silk fiber products
JPS5845507B2 (en) Method for printing knitted fabrics made from animal hair fibers
JPH0411085A (en) Specific surface silk fabric and production thereof
JPH01266276A (en) Modified processing of silk yarn product
JPH06184931A (en) Improved processing of silk fiber product
JPS6214670B2 (en)
CN114411301A (en) Silk-soft-bone-feeling shaped blended and interwoven knitted fabric and preparation method thereof