JPS59130357A - Wrinkle imparting process of fabric - Google Patents

Wrinkle imparting process of fabric

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Publication number
JPS59130357A
JPS59130357A JP497483A JP497483A JPS59130357A JP S59130357 A JPS59130357 A JP S59130357A JP 497483 A JP497483 A JP 497483A JP 497483 A JP497483 A JP 497483A JP S59130357 A JPS59130357 A JP S59130357A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fabric
wrinkles
raised
thickness
per
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP497483A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
雨宮 邦夫
松阪 英幾
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unitika Ltd
Original Assignee
Unitika Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unitika Ltd filed Critical Unitika Ltd
Priority to JP497483A priority Critical patent/JPS59130357A/en
Publication of JPS59130357A publication Critical patent/JPS59130357A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 本発明はポリエステル繊維からなる立毛布帛の皺付は加
工方法に関するものである。
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for wrinkling a raised fabric made of polyester fibers.

従来、布帛に皺付けする方法としては経糸又は緯糸ある
いは経、緯糸に強撚糸を使用して製織後装撚糸の収縮を
利用してしぼ立てと称する湿潤処理を行い1wk物の表
面にしぼを現わす方法や、線状又はその他の形状の凹凸
のある2本のロール間に布帛を通し、上下より強く押し
て型付けする機械的な方法等がある。
Conventionally, the method of wrinkling fabric is to use strongly twisted yarns for the warp, weft, warp, and weft, and to make use of the shrinkage of the twisted yarns after weaving to perform a wet treatment called shibo-etaki to create wrinkles on the surface of a 1wk item. There is a mechanical method in which the fabric is passed between two rolls with unevenness in a linear or other shape and pressed strongly from above and below to form the pattern.

しかし、これら従来の皺付は加工方法では、皺の程度が
非常に微細であったり、また皺の凹凸が低く、現在の若
者達に受は入れられるファツション性の高い品位の咳付
けは得られないという問題点を有していた。
However, with these conventional wrinkle processing methods, the degree of wrinkles is very fine, the unevenness of the wrinkles is low, and it is not possible to obtain a fashionable and high-quality cough that is acceptable to today's young people. The problem was that there was no

本発明者らはこのような問題点を解決するために鋭意検
討の結果、厚みと電食と水分率を限定したポリエステル
繊維からなる布帛し=限定した回数で捻りを与え、この
状態で高圧蒸熱すると耐久性のある適度な大きさの皺で
凹凸も高く、シかも布帛表面の皺の均一性も良く、シか
も布帛として立毛布帛を用いることにより皺の部分の毛
羽の変化が加わり、ファツション性の高い高品位の皺が
得られるという事実を見出し1本発明tこ到達したので
ある。
In order to solve these problems, the inventors of the present invention conducted extensive research and found that a fabric made of polyester fibers with limited thickness, electrolytic corrosion, and moisture content was twisted a limited number of times, and in this state was subjected to high-pressure steaming. As a result, it has durable, moderately sized wrinkles with high unevenness, and the wrinkles on the surface of the fabric have good uniformity, and by using a raised fabric as the fabric, changes in the fluff at the wrinkles are added, creating a fashionable look. The present invention was achieved by discovering the fact that high quality wrinkles can be obtained.

すなわち1本発明は厚さ0.2〜1fi1重量1#/当
り100〜300g、水分率1096以下のポリエステ
y糸繊維からなる立毛布帛に、長さ1m当り5〜20回
の捻りを与えたロープ状幅で120〜140℃の高圧蒸
熱処理を施すことを特徴とする特許皺付は加工方法を要
旨とするものである。
That is, 1. The present invention is a rope that is twisted 5 to 20 times per 1 meter length to a raised fabric made of polyester yarn fibers having a thickness of 0.2 to 1 fi, 100 to 300 g per weight, and a moisture content of 1096 or less. The gist of the patented wrinkling processing method is to perform a high-pressure steaming treatment at 120 to 140° C. in width.

以下2本発明の詳細な説明する。Two aspects of the present invention will be described in detail below.

本発明に用いるポリエステル系繊維からなる立毛布帛と
は、織物1編物、不織布等の片面又は両面カ針布ローρ
、サイドロール、サンドベルト等によって立毛されてい
る布帛であり、ここで特にポリエステル系繊維とするの
は布帛としたときの耐熱性、!!!セット性1強度、風
合、染色堅牢度等に優れているためである。
The raised fabric made of polyester fiber used in the present invention refers to one-sided or double-sided knitted fabric such as woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, etc.
It is a fabric that is raised using side rolls, sand belts, etc. Here, polyester fibers are especially selected because of their heat resistance when made into fabrics. ! ! This is because it has excellent setting properties, strength, texture, color fastness, etc.

該立毛布帛の厚みが1W以下で重量1d当り100〜3
00gとするのは、この範囲が本発明の皺の最も安定し
て得られる条件だからである。すなわち、厚さが1fi
以下であれば皺付けをしたときの布帛の折れる角度が鋭
角になり、皺付は後の皺の形も美しく耐久性にも優れて
いるが、厚みが1U以上となると皺付は時の布帛の折れ
る角度が鈍角となり、皺付は後の皺の角度が丸味を帯び
て美しくなく、耐久性にも劣る。本発明では上述のごと
く厚さは1fi以下であればよいが、さらに品質のよい
ものを得るための布帛の厚みとしては0.4〜0.8f
lが最も適している。なお、Q、4mg以下となるとポ
リエステル系繊維からなる立毛布帛といえども、衣料用
としての実用性のある引裂強度が得られないのが現状で
ある。
The thickness of the raised fabric is 1W or less, and the weight is 100 to 3 per 1 d.
The reason why it is set at 00g is that this range is the condition under which the wrinkles of the present invention can be obtained most stably. That is, the thickness is 1fi
If the thickness is less than 1U, the fold angle of the fabric will be acute when wrinkled, and the wrinkles will be beautiful and have excellent durability, but if the thickness is 1U or more, the wrinkled fabric will be folded at an acute angle. The fold angle is obtuse, and when wrinkled, the angle of the wrinkles afterward becomes rounded, making it unattractive and inferior in durability. In the present invention, as mentioned above, the thickness only needs to be 1 fi or less, but in order to obtain even better quality, the thickness of the fabric is 0.4 to 0.8 f.
l is the most suitable. In addition, when Q is less than 4 mg, even raised fabrics made of polyester fibers do not have a tear strength that is practical for clothing.

また、該布帛の重量が1771′当り100〜600g
とするのは厚みと同じく本発明の皺が最も安定して得ら
れる立毛布帛の条件なのである。すなわち。
In addition, the weight of the fabric is 100 to 600 g per 1771'
Like the thickness, this is the condition for the raised fabric that provides the most stable wrinkles according to the present invention. Namely.

1ゴ当りの重量と厚みとは関係があり、立毛布帛であっ
て、厚みが1fl以下で100〜300 Qとなると通
常、立毛布帛の巾は901から150cM位となる。ま
た、衣料用途としても立毛布帛の1d当りの重量が10
0〜300gは最も適した重量であり。
There is a relationship between the weight per piece and the thickness, and when the thickness of a raised fabric is 1 fl or less and is 100 to 300 Q, the width of the raised fabric is usually about 901 to 150 cm. In addition, for clothing applications, the weight per 1 d of raised fabric is 10
0-300g is the most suitable weight.

強度的1こも実用性のある強度が得られる重量なのであ
る。しかし9重要なことは本発明の皺加工を行うとぎ、
1d当りの重量が100g以下では皺加工は容易で耐久
性のあるものが得られても、立毛布帛としての強度が実
用性に欠けるものしか得られないのが実状である。また
、  1y/当りの重量が500g以上となると厚さに
も関係し、前述のごとき皺付は時の布帛の折れる角度が
鈍角となり1wI付は後の像の角度が丸味を帯びて美し
くなく、耐久性tこも劣るものしか得られない。
In terms of strength, it is a weight that provides practical strength. However, the important thing is that when performing the wrinkle processing of the present invention,
If the weight per 1 d is less than 100 g, it is easy to wrinkle and a durable fabric can be obtained, but the actual situation is that the fabric lacks practical strength as a raised fabric. In addition, when the weight per y/y exceeds 500g, it is also related to the thickness, and with wrinkles as mentioned above, the folding angle of the fabric becomes obtuse, and with 1wI, the angle of the image afterward becomes rounded and not beautiful. Only products with inferior durability can be obtained.

本発明に用いる立毛布帛は厚さ0.2〜11+1.重量
1d当り100−101Fのポリエステル系繊維からな
り、さら1こ重要なことは該布帛の水分率が10%以下
であることである。ここでいう水分率10%とは通常の
乾燥された状態での重量がin/当り200gであると
き、水を均一に付与したときの重量が1d当り220g
以下で、いわゆるほとんど乾燥された状態に近いという
ことを意味する。水分率が10%以上となると次に行う
ロープ状態での高圧蒸熱処理時に水分率の分布床が生じ
て皺や染色布tこ斑の発生する欠点が生じるからである
The raised fabric used in the present invention has a thickness of 0.2 to 11+1. It is made of polyester fibers of 100-101 F/d of weight, and one more important thing is that the moisture content of the fabric is 10% or less. The moisture content of 10% here means that when the weight in a normal dry state is 200g per in/in, the weight when water is uniformly applied is 220g per 1d.
In the following, it means close to the so-called almost dry state. This is because if the moisture content is 10% or more, a distributed bed of moisture content will occur during the next high-pressure steaming treatment in the rope state, resulting in wrinkles and spots on the dyed fabric.

本発明では上述の立毛tこその長さ1m当り5〜20回
の捻りを与えたロープ状態で、120〜140℃の高圧
蒸熱処理を行う。ロープ状の捻れについては、この捻れ
が長さ1m当り5回以下と少なくなると暖の形状が長さ
方向ばかりのあまり1こも衣料用途には大きすぎる皺と
なり好ましくなく、また長さ1m当り20回以上の捻り
を与えるとロープ状態の内部まで次eこ行う高圧蒸熱処
理の効果が到達せずに処理斑となったり、処理時間が奢
るしく長くなる等の欠点が生じる。さらに、布帛の厚み
が1111近く1重量も5009/ld近くとなると1
m当り20回以上の捻りを与えることが機械的に無理な
範囲に入り、布帛に損傷を与えかねない条件となるから
である。
In the present invention, high-pressure steaming at 120 to 140° C. is performed on the above-mentioned raised t rope, which is twisted 5 to 20 times per meter of length. Regarding rope-like twists, if the number of twists is less than 5 times per 1 m of length, the shape of the warmer is only in the length direction, resulting in wrinkles that are too large for clothing, which is undesirable, and 20 times per 1 m of length. If such twisting is applied, the effects of the subsequent high-pressure steaming treatment will not reach the inside of the rope, resulting in defects such as uneven treatment and an unnecessarily long treatment time. Furthermore, if the thickness of the fabric is close to 1111 and the weight of 1 is close to 5009/ld, then 1
This is because applying twists of 20 times or more per m is mechanically impossible, creating a condition that may cause damage to the fabric.

ロープ状態の布帛の高圧蒸熱処理は有孔のアルミ製や木
製等のドラムに巻き付けて行っても良く。
The high-pressure steaming treatment of the rope-like fabric may be carried out by wrapping it around a perforated drum made of aluminum or wood.

またケースtこ詰め込む方法で行っても良い。しかしこ
の時、ロープ状の布帛が直接ドラムやケースに接触して
部分光沢斑等の発生しないように、アンダークロスを巻
きつけたり、敷いたりする必要がある。さらに上部にも
同様な処置をして、セット時に部分乾燥したり、ドレン
による部分蓋の発生する欠点を防止する必要がある。高
圧蒸熱処理装置としては、真空装置の付いた飽和蒸気処
理の行える装置が望ましく、一般に合成繊維からなる加
工糸のセットや、捺染の発色に使用するヌチー五七ツタ
−で良い。処理温度は120〜140℃が良(,120
℃以下では酸固定が不充分で耐久性に劣り、また140
℃以上では染料の移行が始まったり高圧であるため装置
的に無理が生じ、不経済である。処理時間は通常30〜
60分間で良い。
Alternatively, the method may be carried out by cramming several cases. However, at this time, it is necessary to wrap or spread an undercloth to prevent the rope-like fabric from coming into direct contact with the drum or case and causing partial gloss spots. Furthermore, it is necessary to take similar measures to the upper part to prevent defects such as partial drying during setting or partial lidding caused by drain. As the high-pressure steam treatment device, a device equipped with a vacuum device and capable of saturated steam treatment is desirable, and a set of processed yarns generally made of synthetic fibers or a Nuchi Gosana Tsuta used for color development in textile printing may be used. A good treatment temperature is 120 to 140°C (120 to 140°C).
Below 140°C, acid fixation is insufficient and durability is poor;
If the temperature is higher than 0.degree. C., the dye may begin to migrate, and the high pressure may cause strain on the equipment, making it uneconomical. Processing time is usually 30~
60 minutes is fine.

上述のごとく1本発明は厚さ0.2〜1M、重量1m当
り100〜300g、水分率10%以下のポリエステル
系繊維からなる立毛布帛に、長さ1m当り5〜20回の
捻りを与えたロープ状態で、120〜140℃の高圧蒸
熱処理することを特徴とする布帛の種付は加工方法であ
り1本発明の皺付けを行った立毛布帛は、全体として経
方向に帯付けされており、暖と皺との巾の間隔は5〜1
5W程度のものが多く、長さの方は10cN−60CM
程度のものが多くある。高圧蒸熱処理後捻りを解いて、
皺が消失しない適度の条件で巾出しした後、柔軟剤や帯
電防止剤等の仕上処理剤を付与して仕上げたものは、耐
久性のある適度な大きさの皺で凹凸も高く、布帛全面か
らみた皺の均一性も良く、立毛している部分會こも皺の
変化が加わり、高品位のものである。
As mentioned above, in the present invention, a raised fabric made of polyester fibers having a thickness of 0.2 to 1 M, a weight of 100 to 300 g per meter, and a moisture content of 10% or less is twisted 5 to 20 times per 1 meter in length. Seeding of a fabric is a processing method characterized by subjecting it to high-pressure steaming at 120 to 140°C in the form of a rope.1 The wrinkled raised fabric of the present invention is banded in the warp direction as a whole. , the distance between the width of warm and wrinkles is 5-1
Most are around 5W, and the length is 10cN-60CM
There are many types of degree. Untwist after high-pressure steaming treatment,
Fabrics that are stretched under suitable conditions to prevent wrinkles from disappearing and then finished with a finishing agent such as a softener or antistatic agent have durable, moderately sized wrinkles and high unevenness, and the entire surface of the fabric is smoothed. The uniformity of the wrinkles when viewed from the outside is good, and there are also changes in the wrinkles in the areas where the hair is raised, and it is of high quality.

次tこ、実施例によって本発明方法の説明を行うが8本
発明はこれ(こよって何ら制限されるものでない。
Next, the method of the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto in any way.

実施例1 経糸にポリエステル仮撚加工糸75d/36f (フィ
ラメント繊戊約2d)にS撚をさらに500 Wm追撚
したものを用い、緯糸eこポリエステルフィラメント糸
55d/166f (フィラメント繊度約0.5 d 
)のS撚先仮撚280 @/m した背板撚糸を用いて
両回線5枚朱子織物を製織した。織上げ直後の巾は17
50g、経糸の密度110般吋、緯糸密度178製對。
Example 1 A polyester false twisted yarn 75d/36f (filament fineness approximately 2d) with an S twist of 500 Wm was used for the warp, and an e-twisted polyester filament yarn 55d/166f (filament fineness approximately 0.5) was used for the warp. d
) A 5-ply sateen fabric for both lines was woven using backboard twisted yarn with S twist ends falsely twisted at 280@/m. The width immediately after weaving is 17
50g, warp density 110 g, weft density 178.

11当りの重量は87gであった。これを通常のリラッ
クス、精練、染色後170℃で60秒間ピンテンターに
てセットしたあと、針布起毛機を用いて表側10回、裏
側4回の起毛処理を行った。この立毛させた織物は、巾
が115alとなり、厚みが約0.7fl、1m当りの
重量が149gであった。次に水を均一に付与してマン
グルで絞り、ローラードライヤーにて半乾燥した。乾燥
後の177/当りの重量は158gであり水分率約6%
であった。次に7− 回転台の上に固定された1周囲1こ多数の穴があるアル
ミケースに該立毛織物の一端を結びつけ1回転台を回転
して長さ1m当り16〜18回の捻りを与えながらロー
プ状態とし、上記アルミケースに収納した。アルミケー
ス内側の周囲には他の布帛を重ねて当て、処理布帛に当
り状の欠点斑が出ないようにした。さらに、アルミケー
スの上部にも他の布帛をかぶせてドレンによる欠点斑の
発生を防止した。
The weight per No. 11 was 87 g. After the usual relaxing, scouring, and dyeing, this was set in a pin tenter at 170° C. for 60 seconds, and then the front side was raised 10 times and the back side was raised 4 times using a needle cloth raising machine. This raised fabric had a width of 115 al, a thickness of about 0.7 fl, and a weight of 149 g per 1 m. Next, water was applied uniformly, squeezed with a mangle, and semi-dried with a roller dryer. The weight per 177 after drying is 158g, and the moisture content is approximately 6%.
Met. Next, 7- Tie one end of the napped fabric to an aluminum case fixed on a rotating table and having one or more holes around the circumference, and rotate the rotating table once to twist it 16 to 18 times per 1 m of length. It was kept in a rope state and stored in the aluminum case mentioned above. Other fabrics were layered around the inside of the aluminum case to prevent scratch-like defects from appearing on the treated fabric. Furthermore, another fabric was placed over the top of the aluminum case to prevent defects from occurring due to drainage.

次にアルミケースを回転台から取りはずして戸田製作所
製のスチームセッターに入れ、最初真空操作をして約8
0 txflgまで真空eこしたのち、飽和蒸気を入れ
、152℃で50分間の高圧蒸熱処理を行った。処理後
、スチームセッターから取り出し水を掛けて急冷して皺
の固定をよくシ、続いて前述の回転台にのせて固定し、
逆回転させながら布帛を解捻して取り出し、脱水、拡布
したのち、ショートμmグ乾燥機で乾燥し、柔軟剤と帯
電防1ヒ剤を均一に付与して軽く巾出ししながら乾燥し
た。
Next, remove the aluminum case from the turntable and place it in a steam setter manufactured by Toda Seisakusho, and first apply vacuum operation to
After vacuuming to 0 txflg, saturated steam was introduced and high-pressure steaming was performed at 152° C. for 50 minutes. After processing, take it out from the steam setter, pour water over it and cool it down to fix the wrinkles well, then place it on the rotating table mentioned above to fix it.
The fabric was untwisted and taken out while rotating in the opposite direction, dehydrated and spread, and then dried in a short μm dryer.A softener and an antistatic agent were evenly applied, and the fabric was lightly spread to dry.

得られた本発明の立毛布帛は、長さ方向にパフン8− スのとれた皺が全面に入っており、皺と皺との間隔は5
日から151m程度のものが多く、長さ方向tこは15
cIIから401位で交差する銅が多く入っているもの
であった。
The obtained raised fabric of the present invention has 8-puff wrinkles all over the length in the length direction, and the distance between the wrinkles is 5.
Most of them are about 151m from the sun, and the length is 15m.
It contained a large amount of copper that intersects at position 401 from cII.

これは水洗濯3回、ドライクリーニング5回には充分耐
える皺付布帛であった。また、皺の凹凸も0.5〜3鱈
と適度tこ高く、布帛全面からみた皺の均一性も良く、
立毛している部分には皺の変化があり、高品位のもので
あった。
This was a wrinkled fabric that could withstand three wet washes and five dry cleanings. In addition, the unevenness of the wrinkles is moderately high at 0.5 to 3 degrees, and the uniformity of the wrinkles from the entire surface of the fabric is good.
There were wrinkles in the raised part, and it was of high quality.

特許出願人 ユニチカ株式会社Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] (1)厚さく1.2−1 tlK、重量1m’当り10
0−5009゜水分率10%以下のポリエステμ糸繊維
からなる立毛布帛に、長さ1m当り5〜20回の捻りを
与えたロープ状幅で、120〜140℃の高圧蒸熱処理
を施すことを特徴とする布帛の皺付は加工方法。
(1) Thickness 1.2-1 tlK, weight 10 per m'
0-5009° A raised fabric made of polyester μ yarn fibers with a moisture content of 10% or less is subjected to high-pressure steaming at 120 to 140°C with a rope-like width that is twisted 5 to 20 times per meter of length. The characteristic wrinkle of the fabric is the processing method.
JP497483A 1983-01-13 1983-01-13 Wrinkle imparting process of fabric Pending JPS59130357A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP497483A JPS59130357A (en) 1983-01-13 1983-01-13 Wrinkle imparting process of fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP497483A JPS59130357A (en) 1983-01-13 1983-01-13 Wrinkle imparting process of fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS59130357A true JPS59130357A (en) 1984-07-26

Family

ID=11598565

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP497483A Pending JPS59130357A (en) 1983-01-13 1983-01-13 Wrinkle imparting process of fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS59130357A (en)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS63145477A (en) * 1986-12-02 1988-06-17 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of suede fabric having wrinkles
JPH0598563A (en) * 1991-08-22 1993-04-20 Miyake Design Jimusho:Kk Processing of pleat wear
JP2012177219A (en) * 2012-05-02 2012-09-13 Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd Method for manufacturing wrinkled and/or embossed fiber product

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS63145477A (en) * 1986-12-02 1988-06-17 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of suede fabric having wrinkles
JPH0598563A (en) * 1991-08-22 1993-04-20 Miyake Design Jimusho:Kk Processing of pleat wear
JP2012177219A (en) * 2012-05-02 2012-09-13 Komatsu Seiren Co Ltd Method for manufacturing wrinkled and/or embossed fiber product

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