JPH04316660A - Dyeing of crimped woven fabric of polyester - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To carry out dyeing having uniform craping and an excellent feeling of swelling while avoiding occurrence of rope wrinkle, wale streak, stitch twist, hit flow, etc., by dyeing woven fabric composed of hard twist polyester yarn having >=a specific number of twists by an air flow dyeing machine. CONSTITUTION:Woven fabric such as plain weaves, twill fabric or stain weaves composed of hard twist polyester yarn having >=800 T/M number of twists is dyed by using an air flow dyeing machine of transporting cloth in the dyeing machine substantially by air flow or a mixed flow of air flow and liquid flow to make tension in the length direction to cloth during dyeing in an extremely small state.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an improved method for dyeing fabrics made of highly twisted polyester fibers.

0002

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics made of polyester fibers are widely used for clothing such as outer garments, inner garments, and linings. Grained fabrics made from highly twisted polyester fibers such as dechine and georgette are expanding into a unique product category for clothing as they have unique textures such as crispness and dryness. Conventionally, liquid jet dyeing machines have often been used to dye this grained fabric.

[0003] In fabrics using highly twisted polyester fibers,
During the dyeing process, the threads shrink and the thread structure that makes up the fabric changes, so it is easily affected by the dyeing conditions of the dyeing machine, causing subtle changes in the fine thread structure of the fabric. As a result, the properties, texture, and quality of the dyed product vary. Conventionally, fabrics using the above-mentioned highly twisted polyester fibers have often been dyed with jet dyeing machines due to their relaxing effect and production efficiency. However, during dyeing, jet dyeing machines circulate the fabric while pulling it in the length direction with strong force, which tends to cause defects such as rope wrinkles, warp lines, twists, and spots on the dyed product, and also causes problems in the fabric after relaxing. The problem was that the texture of the paper became uneven, leading to a decline in quality. There is also a problem with the texture of dyed products, in that the relaxed texture loses its fullness through the dyeing process.

0004

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention provides a dyeing method for obtaining a textured fabric made of polyester fibers that has excellent quality and a fluffy texture that has been difficult to obtain using conventional dyeing methods. This is what I am trying to do.

[0005]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present invention has a twist count of 800.
This is a method for dyeing polyester fabric, which is characterized in that a fabric made of polyester fibers with a T/M or higher is dyed using an airflow dyeing machine. The present inventors have aimed to eliminate defects such as rope wrinkles, warp lines, twists, and spots that occur when dyeing fabrics made of highly twisted polyester fibers using conventional jet dyeing machines, and to improve the quality of fabrics during dyeing. As a result of research on conveyance methods for fabrics, it has been found that when the fabric is conveyed by a gas flow or a mixed flow of gas and liquid, the above-mentioned drawbacks are eliminated or significantly corrected, and the inherent suppleness of the fabric is not impaired. Furthermore, it was discovered that it gives a feeling of fullness to the fabric. In other words, one of the reasons why the above drawbacks cannot be resolved is
We believe that this is due to the longitudinal tension that the fabric receives during dyeing. We focused on the fact that due to its structure, the airflow dyeing machine exerts little tension in the length direction on the fabric, and when we actually dyed it, we found that, surprisingly, the above-mentioned defects did not occur, and the fabric was uniform and full. We were able to obtain dyed products.

Here, conventional jet dyeing machines include, for example, a loco dyeing machine (manufactured by Hokuriku Kakoki), a Uniace dyeing machine (manufactured by Nippon Sensei Kikai), and a circular dyeing machine (manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho). , but not limited to these. The airflow dyeing machine referred to in the present invention means that the transportation of textile products within the dyeing apparatus is not substantially by a liquid flow as in conventional liquid jet dyeing machines, but by a gas flow or a mixture of gas and liquid. Any type of method may be used as long as it is carried out by flow. Of course, it may be partially propelled by an accessory device such as an auxiliary reel.

For example, during dyeing, the fiber material to be treated with a gaseous and/or liquid dye liquor is introduced into a tank that can be closed airtight, in which it is circulated endlessly and at least during the treatment operation. This is a jet dyeing apparatus in which this state is maintained while the treatment agent is circulated in the same direction to act on the textile product, and the textile material is propelled substantially by the propulsion energy of the fluidized gas. Preferably, Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-29030, Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-36
An example is the jet dyeing device used in the treatment method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 385.

[0008] Due to the principles and structural features of the airflow dyeing machine as described above, the tension in the longitudinal direction that is applied to the fabric during dyeing is much smaller than that of the liquid jet dyeing machine. As a result, the following effects are considered to have occurred. ■During the circulation of the fabric, the physical impact and tension that the fabric undergoes is small, so there is almost no rope wrinkles, twists, or bumps. Furthermore, the grain hardly changes unevenly after relaxation. ■ Due to the random kneading action during dyeing, the fibers that make up the fabric are spread out more randomly, so there are almost no warps or wrinkles. ■ Because the fabric is dyed in a freer state, the relaxation effect during dyeing increases the density of the fabric, making it thicker and fuller.

The polyester fibers having a twist number of 800 T/M or more used in the present invention are composed of polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and copolymers thereof. As the polyester, those obtained by known polymerization methods can be used. It may also contain additives normally used in polyesters, such as matting agents, stabilizers, antistatic agents, etc. Further, there is no particular restriction on the degree of polymerization as long as it is within the range for normal fiber formation.

[0010] The number of twists of the polyester fiber is 800T/
It is necessary to have a grain size of M or more in order to maintain the texture and quality of the grained fabric. Polyester fibers may be used alone to form a woven fabric, or may be used as a mixed product by interweaving with other fiber materials. In the case of a mixed product, synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylic, recycled fibers such as cupro and rayon, and natural fibers such as wool, silk, and cotton can be used as the mating material.

[0011] The number of twists used in the method of the present invention is 800T/
Fabrics made of polyester fibers having a size of M or more include plain textures, twill textures, satin textures, and fabrics made of variations of these textures. In the method of the present invention, usual dyeing conditions for polyester fibers are used for the type of dyeing aid, its concentration, dyeing pH, dyeing time, post-treatment after dyeing, etc. These are appropriately set in consideration of the type of object to be dyed and the dyeing density.

[0012] The present invention will be specifically explained below using examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these Examples. The evaluation criteria are as follows. (i) Rope wrinkles, warp lines, twists, etc. ○: Almost none △: Slightly present ×: Considerably present (ii) Texture ○: Crispy and bulgy, good △: Crispy, but bulgy Slightly lacking ×: The crispness is lost.

[0013]

【Example】

[0014]

[Example 1, Comparative Example 1] Number of twists in the warp: S, Z 300
0T/M polyethylene terephthalate yarn (50d/1
Using polyethylene terephthalate yarn (100d/98f, round cross section) with a twist number S of 1200T/M as the weft, we made 5 sheets of satin and georgette fabric (warp density 230 threads/inch). , weft density 75 threads/inch). This fabric is smelted, relaxed, preset, and reduced by conventional methods (loss rate: 21%)
) was carried out. Next, after dyeing using an airflow dyeing machine under the following conditions, a softener was applied and final setting was performed to finish. It was also dyed in the same way using a jet dyeing machine and finished in the same way. Dyeing conditions Bath ratio (airflow dyeing machine) 1:4 (airflow dyeing machine) 1:10 Dyeing temperature 130℃ Dyeing time
30 minute airflow dyeing machine TH
Airflow dyeing machine AF40 manufactured by EN Corporation Liquid dyeing machine Circular dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Each of the obtained dyed fabrics was evaluated for strength, quality, and texture, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0015] The finished product of Example 1 was dyed to improve its density and
The thickness was increased, and there were no defects such as rope wrinkles, warp lines, twists, and spots, and the product had a good texture with no wrinkles or unevenness. On the other hand, finished products dyed using a jet dyeing machine showed no increase in density or thickness, had a looser texture than before dyeing, and had rope wrinkles, warp lines, and twists.

[0016]

[Example 2, Comparative Examples 2-3] Number of twists in warp yarn S 250
T/M different shrinkage mixed polyester yarn (mixed fiber type of polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer yarn and copolymerized high shrinkage polyester yarn, 50d/24f, Y cross section), weft twist number S, Z 2500T/M A deshine fabric (warp density: 160 threads/inch, weft density: 80 threads/inch) was woven using polyethylene terephthalate yarn (75 d/24 f, round cross section). For comparison, the number of weft twists is S,
A woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as above, except that the yarn was woven at Z 700T/M.

[0017] This fabric is smelted, relaxed, and
Presetting and weight loss processing (weight loss rate 20%) were performed. Subsequently, under the same conditions as in Example 1, dyeing was performed using an airflow dyeing machine and a jet dyeing machine, followed by application of a softener and final setting. The properties, quality, and texture of each of the obtained dyed fabrics were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 2. Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 are obtained by dyeing the above-mentioned regular woven fabric, and Comparative Example 3 is obtained by dyeing a woven fabric with a reduced number of weft twists.

The finished product of Example 2 has rope wrinkles, warp muscles,
There were no defects such as wrinkles or spots, and there was no uneven grain, and it had a good, full texture. In addition, in Comparative Example 3 using a yarn with a reduced number of twists, the crisp texture of the deshin was lost.

[0019]

[Table 1]

[0020]

[Table 2]

[0021]

According to the present invention, when dyeing a fabric made of polyester fibers with a twist number of 800 T/M or more, rope wrinkles, which were a problem when dyed with a conventional jet dyeing machine, can be eliminated. It is possible to obtain a dyed fabric that has almost no defects such as warps, twists, and spots, has a uniform grain, and has an improved sense of fullness.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A method for dyeing polyester fabric, which comprises dyeing a fabric made of polyester fibers with a twist number of 800 T/M or more using an airflow dyeing machine.