JPS6338469B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention provides a fabric with improved drapability, more specifically, a fabric which is conventionally known as woolly deshin.
This invention relates to improving the drape properties of filament fabrics using flat yarns, wefts, and false twisted crimped yarns (hereinafter referred to as woolly yarns), or filament fabrics using flat yarns in both warps and wefts. Woolly deshin has a slightly twisted warp (usually
800T/M or less) and a gray cloth with lightly twisted woolly threads as the wefts, the aim is to create a grain effect due to the woolly threads. This decine itself has been well received in the market, but with the recent appearance of new varieties, the woolly smell in the texture is sometimes disliked. The biggest drawback of this deshin is that it lacks drapability, but as long as the warp yarns are flat yarns, not only the woolly odor, but also no improvement in drapability can be expected. In addition, filament fabrics that use flat yarns for both the warp and weft produce a wrinkled effect similar to that of woolly deshin by using strongly twisted yarns for the weft, but they have poor bulkiness and lack drapability. There are drawbacks. The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of filament fabrics using woolly deshin and flat yarn as described above,
The object of the present invention is to provide a filament fabric which has further improved drapability and reduces wooly odor and filament odor. Furthermore, another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric that, in addition to the above-mentioned characteristics, has a higher bulk and a softer feel. In the course of various studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention found that as long as the warp is a flat yarn, the drawbacks of conventional woolly deshins and deshins using flat yarns cannot be overcome; They found that when using a specific latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn, which exhibits a high density of fibers, the drapability is significantly improved, there is no wooly odor or filament odor, and a bulky and flexible fabric can be obtained. . Thus, according to the present invention, the following properties (a) to (c) are met: (a) boiling water shrinkage rate of 13% or less; Filaments with a maximum filament wavelength of 15 mm or less, a maximum thread length difference of 15% or less, and a thread difference of 3 to 12% account for 15% or more of the total number of filaments (c). A polyester multifilament yarn with a potential bulkiness of 14.0cm ³ /g or more is twisted at most 800T/M to form the warp yarn, while the weft yarn is a group consisting of woolly yarn and filaments with virtually no crimpability. selected from and at least
A method for producing a filament woven fabric with improved drapability is provided, which comprises subjecting a woven fabric comprising twisted multifilament yarns of 600 T/M to the wefts to alkali weight reduction. To further discuss this, the latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn used as the warp in the present invention has a unique relaxed structure as a warp component of woolly deshine or desyne using flat yarn, compared to conventional similar yarns or flat yarns. This contributes to improved drapability, and in combination with the fact that the constituent filaments are evenly processed to reduce alkali weight, it provides excellent drape that is not found in conventional woolly deshin or flat yarn deshin. This led to the imposition of gender. In the present invention, the term "potentially bulky multifilament yarn" refers to a thermoplastic multifilament yarn having irregular contractile portions within and between single fibers at extremely short pitches, It means a material that develops silk-like texture and swelling through heat shrinkage treatment. In addition, the multifilament yarn used as the weft is a normal flat yarn,
Alternatively, it refers to processed yarns thereof such as false twisted crimped yarns, taslan, etc. Hereinafter, the latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn used as the warp in the present invention will be described in detail. As a method for producing a yarn similar to the yarn described above, for example, a thermoplastic multifilament yarn is brought into instantaneous contact with a dry heat heating element under its dry heat shrinkage stress, specifically, in an almost free state, so that a part of the yarn is There are some methods in which the filament is intermittently shrunk and other filaments are suspended accordingly to create loops and slack, thereby creating yarn length differences and crimp within the entire yarn (for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-47550, Tokuko Showa 51-18535
(see publication). The yarn thus obtained has a large number of loops and slacks on its surface, resulting in a silk-like texture and feel, but has the following drawbacks. (a) Since the filament yarn is subjected to random heat shrinkage treatment in the cross-sectional direction and longitudinal direction, scratch-like stripes occur in woven or knitted fabrics. In this process, the yarn as a whole is subjected to contact heat treatment in an almost free state, so the yarn itself does not run smoothly on the heating element.
This is due to the fact that the process itself is extremely unstable. Of course, in order to prevent the above-mentioned scratch-like stripes, it is sufficient to selectively heat-treat only a portion of the filaments at a constant rate, but in the case of instantaneous heat treatment, only half of the filament group is always heat-treated. is completely undesirable, and the ratio is constantly changing. Moreover, there is a natural limit to the processing speed due to the constraints of the almost free state of slight tension and instantaneous heat treatment. (b) As a result of partially shrinking the filament yarn,
Loops and slacks occur on the yarn surface, and such loops and slacks cause a decrease in the handling properties of the yarn, and in particular, not only significantly impair the weaving properties but also cause a deterioration in the appearance of the woven or knitted product. For this reason, a method has been proposed in which the loops and slack are temporarily eliminated by heat treatment, but in this case,
Since the entire yarn is heated again, the difference in shrinkage between the high-shrinkage portion and the low-shrinkage portion is reduced, and it is not expected that the original texture and feel will be reproduced. (c) Since the yarn is partially heat-shrinked under extremely low tension, a flow portion remains in the yarn, causing the yarn to stretch irregularly during weaving, resulting in sink marks, and in woven and knitted fabrics, elbows may fall out. easy. (d) The yarn as a whole has a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component, but because it is obtained by instantaneous heat treatment using a single-sided heating method, the two exist separately (not a so-called "mixed" component), and the conventional Even if there is a difference in shrinkage due to heat during dyeing, etc., the threads will only form a suspended shape, and the effect of swollen and silk-like when mixed together will be reduced. As mentioned above, conventional silk-like processed yarns that utilize shrinkage differentials are always accompanied by problems such as dyeing spots, loose wrinkles, and poor weavability, and cannot take full advantage of the silk-like properties of the yarn structure. It was empty. Moreover, when these are used as warp components of woolly stitches or flat yarn stitches, the yarn defects described above are directly reflected in the fabrics, and it is impossible to expect them to be of practical use. In contrast, the warp component according to the present invention completely eliminates the above-mentioned drawbacks. To explain each requirement here, first, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the latent bulky yarn as a whole (100℃ x 30
minute) must be at most 13% or less, but
This is essential from the viewpoint of maintaining the soft feel of the yarn as a whole. Of course, even when the yarn content exceeds 13%, the interfilament voids similar to those of the present invention can be obtained, but on the other hand, the entire yarn becomes hard due to excessive shrinkage. Therefore, the limitation that the boiling water shrinkage rate is "13% or less" can be said to be a prerequisite for the present invention. On the other hand, the bulge that occurs after the relaxation treatment under dry heat will be explained with reference to FIG. In the figure, the bulge B is a filament exhibiting various wavelengths.
f ₁ , f ₂ , f ₃ ...f _o . In such a filament group, f ₁ is the longest distance (wavelength) among the overhanging fibers f ₁ to _{f o} between adjacent interlacing points.
This is called the "maximum wavelength" because it protrudes, but if this wavelength exceeds 15 mm, the overall quality of the yarn, especially its silky quality, will deteriorate and it will cause flashing. Therefore, this "maximum wavelength" is mainly a constraint on the appearance of the yarn, in other words, it regulates the apparent size of the bulge. On the other hand, the term "maximum yarn foot difference" refers to the shortest distance in the yarn axis direction of the bulge.
l The surplus length of the longest filament f ₁ present in the bulge _B is expressed as a percentage with respect to B, and when the length of the longest filament f ₁ is lm, it is expressed as follows. Maximum thread length difference (%) = lm-l _B /l _B ×100 However, if this "maximum thread length difference" exceeds 15%, the texture and quality will deteriorate significantly. In other words, if the difference in yarn length exceeds 15%, the properties of the bulge will be different from those of silk. The most important thing for this swollen part is the state of voids due to the distribution of yarn foot difference.In order to obtain a silk-like effect, filaments (number of filaments) with a yarn foot difference of 3 to 12% are particularly important. It is essential that it accounts for at least 15% of all filaments (number of filaments). In other words, the inter-fiber voids formed by filaments with a yarn length difference of 3 to 12% are much lower than the bulkiness of conventional bulky yarns, so they are "bulky".
The word ``bulge'' is used to distinguish it from ``bulge''. The most ideal bulge is formed when such filaments account for at least 15% of all filaments. A characteristic of the potentially bulky filament yarn having such characteristics is that the yarn as a whole (after relaxing heat treatment) exhibits a considerably lower bulk than conventional yarns. This characteristic is expressed by the bulk level defined below, ranging from 14cm ³ /g to 20cm ³ /g.
It falls within the range of g. Bulking height (bulky degree) 320 rotations with yarn skein (circumference 1.125 m),
A load of 6 g is suspended from one end of the sample folded in half, and the sample is dry heated at 195° C. for 5 minutes and then cooled. Next, 0.6 g (=Wg) of the treated yarn was placed in a box having a rectangular cross section of 10 cm x 1 cm, and a lid weighing 6.4 g was placed from above. The volume of the yarn Vcm ³ is determined from the height of the lid at that time, and the bulkiness level is calculated using the following formula. Bulking height (cm ³ /g) = V/W As mentioned above, the latent bulky yarn is made by using a fluid agitation treatment in advance to form a filament yarn with only a certain size of overhang on the yarn surface to a constant length or under tension. It can be obtained by non-contact heat treatment. Figure 2 shows an embodiment of non-contact heat treatment, in which undrawn polyester filament yarn 1
After being taken out from the package 2, the yarn is drawn through pretension roller systems 3 and 4 between a supply roller system 5 and a large diameter portion of a take-up roller 6 consisting of a stepped roller to become a drawn yarn 7. The drawn yarn 7 is then passed through a turbulent flow nozzle, preferably an interlace nozzle 8, a yarn bending guide 9, and a buffer 10 from the large diameter part of the take-up roller 6, and then passed through a non-contact heater 11 (slit heater) to a fixed length. The yarn 13 runs under tension and is rotated around the yarn path by the guides 12, 12', and is supplied to the winding device 14 through the small diameter portion of the take-up roller 6. Here, since the large diameter portion of the take-off roller 6 has a higher circumferential speed than the small diameter portion, the drawn yarn 7 is processed by the turbulent flow nozzle 8 under constant overfeed to form an overhang portion.
In this case, the bending guide 9 after the nozzle 8 actually serves to keep the yarn passing through the turbulent nozzle 8 under overfeed, while in the non-contact heater 11 the yarn is maintained at constant length or under tension. has. The advantage of such non-contact heat treatment is that compared to contact heat treatment, such as heat treatment using a plate heater, it is possible to perform a uniform shrinkage process of 360° around the yarn axis, and as a result, the maximum wavelength, maximum yarn foot difference, etc. mentioned above can be reduced. can be realized very advantageously. In the above example, an undrawn yarn is used as a starting yarn, which is stretched, and the yarn is normally subjected to turbulence treatment and heat shrinkage treatment on the overhanging portion with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15% or less. However, instead of the undrawn yarn, a drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15% or less may be used, and this may be supplied to the processing area from the large diameter portion of the pull-out roller 6 shown in FIG. Furthermore, the filament yarn to which an overhang has been previously provided may be heat-shrinked on the heater shown in FIG. 2 to a fixed length or under tension. The filament yarn used as the starting yarn in the present invention is made of polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, etc., and has a total denier of 15 to 15.
A multifilament yarn of 250 de, preferably 30 de to 75 de, a single fiber denier of 1.7 de or less, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 5% is suitably used. Furthermore, since the present invention is originally aimed at a silk-like material, the cross section of the filament is also important to some extent, and it is preferable to use a filament with an irregular shape, particularly a triangular cross section, rather than a circular one. A known interlace nozzle (for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 36-12230
(Refer to Japanese Patent Publication No. 37-1175)
~5 Kg/cm ² ·G, an overfeed of 1 to 15%, preferably 1.5 to 6%, and a yarn speed of 200 m/min or more, preferably 500 m/min or more. The conditions required for the entangled yarn obtained by this turbulence treatment are that the number of entanglements is at least 50/m, that the yarn has only slack and overhanging portions, and that the filament axis is 360 mm. It is necessary to eliminate Cournod loops caused by twisting as much as possible. Regarding the former, an excessively long overhang not only makes it difficult to shrink, but is also unsuitable for obtaining the fullness of silk in terms of texture, and regarding the latter, the presence of Cournoud loops is difficult to achieve due to the heat shrinking process. This is because not only does it not shrink in a straight line, but also the shrinkage of the overhanging portion is inhibited, resulting in only a yarn with a coarse and hard feel. FIG. 3 is a side view of the filament yarn after the turbulent flow treatment, and a part of the filament (single fiber) 16 constituting the multifilament yarn 15 has an overhanging portion 1 made of overhanging filaments of various sizes.
7, and there are tightening portions C at both ends of this overhanging portion 17. In such a yarn, the parts other than the overhanging filaments form the base yarn, that is, the supporting yarn, so this yarn is placed under a certain tension (usually a tension of 0.1 g/de or less, which does not eliminate slack). If it is placed on the ground, all the tension will be concentrated on the ground thread and the overhang will not be erased. Therefore, when the yarn is subjected to heat shrinkage treatment under tension, the overhanging portion shrinks smoothly and takes the form of so-called free shrinkage, so that the setting effect is large and the shrinkage rate of the overhanging portion is greatly reduced. On the other hand, since the ground yarn portion is kept under tension, it is a so-called tension heat treatment, and therefore the heat setting effect is less than that of a free heat treatment. As a result, a difference in setting effect, ie, a larger difference in shrinkage ratio, occurs between the two. FIG. 4 shows the relationship between tension and shrinkage rate during heat setting, where the horizontal axis represents the tension applied to the slack or overhanging portion 17 as T ₁ and the tension applied to the ground yarn portion as T ₂ . On the other hand, on the vertical axis, the heat shrinkage rate of each portion after heat treatment is expressed as S ₁ (sagging or overhanging portion) and S ₂ (ground thread portion). As can be seen from this figure, the lower the tension is used to set the yarn, the greater the setting effect (because the amorphous portion is more likely to relax and assume a stable shape), and the shrinkage rate tends to be lower. In other words, the shrinkage rate of the base yarn part set under high tension is approximately S ₂ before setting, but that of the slack and overhanging part set under low tension is extremely reduced to S ₁ , and thus within the same yarn. However, the maximum shrinkage difference of ΔS can be obtained. FIG. 5 shows the appearance of the yarn after heat shrinkage treatment, and it appears to be in a substantially straight line, no different from that of a normal filament yarn, that is, a flat yarn. However, as shown in FIG. 5, when looking at each single fiber, along its longitudinal direction, a low shrinkage portion Pl formed by shrinkage of slack consists of a high shrinkage portion Ph where no shrinkage occurs. As is clear from the above explanation, the low shrinkage portion Pl is a mixture of different shrinkage filament yarns, and in reality, the single fibers that had formed slack around the high shrinkage ground yarn are It has shrunk and become a stretched state or a flat yarn state. The most important thing to achieve this aligned state is that the overhangs in FIG. 3 are formed as overhangs (half-arc shapes) of individual single fibers, and this is the only way to induce smooth contraction. In this respect, there is a Cournoud loop (Fig. 6, 18, which is unique to the so-called taslan, in which the thread is twisted 360° around the thread axis to form a loop), which is similar to sagging or overhanging. are substantially excluded in the present invention. This is because even when this Cournoud loop is subjected to heat shrinkage treatment, the single fibers do not shrink linearly as shown in FIG. 6, and protrusions 18 remain on the yarn surface. This is because not only does this form a crimped portion, but it also gives the entire yarn a rough and hard feel, which is far from the texture of silk. In addition, even if the single fibers do not become loops and are simply sagging and overhanging, if the heat treatment is insufficient and the sagging and overhanging are not removed sufficiently and remain, the fabric will still have an uneven feel. This results in a so-called twisted thread-like fabric. That is, the boiling water shrinkage rate was reduced to 13% or less while sufficiently eliminating sagging and overhanging parts. The filament is made into a nearly straight filament, and when it is woven into a textile and finished with dyeing, the yarn undergoes heat shrinkage and swells to create a very smooth surface but a fluffy overall texture that is unique to silk. It comes out. In order to do this, it goes without saying that loops should not be mixed in the original yarn (Fig. 5) obtained by shrinkage treatment, and it is also necessary to remove slack and overhanging portions by sufficiently relaxing and heat-shrinking them during heat treatment. Furthermore, by forming the filament yarn into a substantially straight line in this manner, it is effective in the sense that the yarn can be easily handled like a normal filament yarn and can be woven without any problems. Additionally, if the original thread (Fig. 5) contains loops, even if they are removed by heat shrinkage, the fibers will remain twisted, giving off a unique glittering luster that is unique to silk. In this sense as well, the original yarn (Figure 5) should not have loops mixed in, as the result will be completely different from the mild luster of the yarn. When the thus obtained heat-treated yarn shown in FIG. 5 is relaxed in boiling water, for example, the ground yarn portion existing as a core along the longitudinal direction of the yarn and the high shrinkage portion Ph ₁ . . . n shown in FIG. As the fibers contract, the voids between single fibers increase, and the yarn as a whole exhibits a high degree of swelling, flexibility, and suppleness, as shown in FIG. From the above, the thread tension during heat shrinkage treatment to eliminate this slack is also critical. In other words, if the yarn is treated in a slit heater under a tension lower than the dry heat shrinkage stress (when the entire yarn is subjected to free heat shrinkage), the yarn as a whole will shrink, and even in the subsequent boiling water treatment, the purpose will not be met. The swelling will no longer occur. Therefore, it is desirable to maintain this yarn tension (the tension between the slit heater and the first yarn path turning guide) at least 0.02 g/de or more. On the other hand, the thickness and number of slacks are also quite important, and this can be explained using Figure 8.
It is appropriate that there be at least 3 sag per 1 cm with the apparent length L of sag being 1 to 15 mm and height H of 0.5 to 3.5 mm when a load is applied. . Further, from the viewpoint of uniformly dispersing slack, it is preferable that at least 20% or more of the single fibers constituting the multifilament yarn have slack. Among these requirements, the apparent length L is particularly important; if this is less than 1 mm, fine crimp, for example, a woolly odor will appear, and a sufficient swelling effect cannot be expected. In addition, in order to shrink and eliminate sagging, it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the slit heater and the processing time within appropriate ranges;
The latter can be appropriately selected from the range of 0.01 to 0.1 seconds. Finally, the heat-treated yarn with the slack removed is supplied to a winding device and wound.As the winding device, a friction-driven bobbin may be used in addition to the ring twisting machine shown in the figure, and there are no particular restrictions. . The thus obtained yarn additionally has regular convergence portions and differentially contracted portions, and the filament yarn, which has been subjected to less heat shrinkage treatment, has the function of a tension-bearing yarn, so to speak. It is essentially different from yarn (that is, heat-shrinked filaments play the role of core yarn, and unheat-treated filaments stand out on the yarn surface). Therefore, such a potentially bulky yarn has the following features. (a) Since the yarn is subjected to regular heat shrinkage treatment in the longitudinal and cross-sectional directions, there is no concern that scratch-like stripes will occur. (b) Since only the pre-applied overhang is heat-shrinked, it looks like a normal flat yarn (Flat Yarn).
It is no different from Yarn (because there are no loops or slacks), and together with the presence of intertwining points, the handling of the yarn is greatly improved. (c) Since the filament, which has been heat-treated to a low degree, acts as a tension carrier, the problem of sink marks during weaving is also eliminated. (d) Since the overhang itself is imparted by fluid agitation treatment, it is randomly selected from all the filament yarns constituting the overhang, resulting in a mixed type of differently contracted filament yarn. Furthermore, as an inherent feature of the latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn, the average length l _C and l B of the bundled part C and spread part _B that occur when the multifilament yarn (50 cm) is floated on water. , l _B are preferably larger than l _C , that is, when l _C /l _B =K, it is preferable that K<1. The degree of entanglement (ke/m) is determined by floating 50 cm of heat-treated filament yarn on water as shown in Figure 1.
At this time, the number of bundled parts C existing between the partially formed spindle-shaped spread parts B is measured and converted to the number of entanglements per 1 m. If the number of entanglements is too large, the number of swelling parts will decrease and a silk-like texture cannot be expected, so it is appropriate to limit the number to 130 entanglements/m at most. Next, weaving and alkali weight loss processing using such latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn will be described. First, the warp should preferably be 800T/M or less, considering its swelling effect.
The yarns are twisted to 300 to 800 T/M, and twisted to at least 600 T/M or more to obtain a grain effect as weft yarns, and then used on a shuttled or shuttleless loom to obtain a gray fabric. At that time, the warp and weft are 15~
You can choose as appropriate from the range of 150 de. In the present invention, when flat yarn is used as the weft, it is particularly preferable that the single fiber denier is 0.4 to 1.2 denier. Next, the gray fabric undergoes the usual scouring, preset dyeing and finishing processes, and at this time, a relaxing treatment may be performed simultaneously with the scouring or dyeing process to develop the grain of the weft yarns. Another meaning of this relaxation treatment is that it causes a difference in shrinkage in the warp yarns at the same time.
The purpose is to create gaps between the filaments and reduce the contact pressure with the weft. This improves the drape properties compared to those using flat yarns tied together as warp yarns, but alkali weight loss processing improves this even further. This alkali treatment can be carried out at any stage before finishing. Here, examples of alkaline substances include potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, soda carbonate, etc. In addition, as alkaline treatment accelerators, quaternary substances such as lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and cetyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride can be used. It is advantageous to use ammonium salts in combination. As a treatment mode, a method is adopted in which the fabric is immersed in an alkaline aqueous solution and then heated. Here, the concentration of the treatment liquid may generally be selected from a range of 20 g/-40 g/, and the treatment time may be appropriately selected from a range of 30-90 minutes.
However, what is important here is the final weight loss rate, which should be at least 10%, preferably 15% or more, and its upper limit is 30% at most. If the weight loss rate is less than 10%, there is no room for improvement in drapability, while if it exceeds 30%, the practical strength will drop significantly. As described above, according to the present invention, since polyester latent bulky yarn, which is apparently the same as flat yarn, is used as the starting yarn, troubles occur in handling the yarn not only in the twisting or weaving preparation process but also during weaving. Nor. Moreover, the resulting fabric does not have any problems such as scum, dye spots, or loose elbows, has a silk-like texture due to the warp, and has no wooly or filament odor.
A filament fabric that is bulky, flexible, and has excellent drapability can be obtained. Example 1 Using the process shown in Figure 2, processing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 1, and the resulting latent bulky yarn was used to manufacture a pallet (woven fabric) under the design conditions shown in Table 2. do. Next, turn this fabric into Dayanix yellow.
Table 3 shows the evaluation results for fabric quality and other aspects when dyed using GR-E dye (CI Disperse Yellow 60). Table 1 (Processing conditions) (1) Undrawn yarn 1 Polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 143de/36fil (triangular cross-section yarn) (2) Surface speed of supply roller system 5 271 m/min (3) Take-up (stretching) roller system 6 Surface speed of the large diameter part of 800 m/min (4) Stretching ratio 2.95 times (5) Boiling water shrinkage rate of the drawn yarn 7 15% (6) Surface speed of the small diameter part of the take-up roller system 6
784 m/min (7) Turbulent flow nozzle 8 The one shown in Figure 3 of Japanese Patent Publication No. 1175/1975 (Pneumatic pressure 2 Kg/cm ² ) (8) Overfeed rate of yarn when passing through the turbulent flow nozzle
2% (9) Slit heater 11 Temperature 180℃ Effective heating length 30cm (10) Slit heater 11 and take-up roller system 6
Yarn tension between small diameter part of 0.07 g/de (11) Appearance of drawn yarn after passing through turbulence nozzle 7
With overhang Size (average) H = 0.9 mm L = 11 mm Density 8 strands/cm Number of intertwining 60 strands/m (12) Winding device 14 Ring twisting machine (a) Spindle rotation speed 10000 rpm (b) Tension 0.4 g/de (13) Winding yarn (a) Appearance Same as flat yarn in almost straight state Boiling water shrinkage rate 11% Number of entanglements 58 yarns/m (b) After relaxation treatment at 195℃ for 5 minutes (a) Filament at swollen part Maximum wavelength 13mm (b) Maximum filament thread length difference at the bulge part 13.5% (c) Percentage of filaments with a thread length difference of 3 to 12% at the bulge part 30% (c) Bulk height 17.5cm ³ /g Table 2 (fabric design and finishing conditions) (1) Thread usage (warp) 300T/m, weft S,
Z2000T/m alternate driving (weft) polyester flat yarn
50de/24fil (2) Two pieces with reed density 19.8 birds/cm (3) Latitude density 39.6 birds/cm (4) Relatux 95° × with rotary washer
25min (5) Preset 180℃×45sec (6) Alkali weight loss 35g/, NaOH aqueous solution at 98℃, weight loss rate 20.7% (7) Dyeing Uniace (manufactured by Nippon Senzoki Kikai),
130℃×45 minutes (8) Final set 160℃×45sec (9) Finishing density Warp 67.5 threads/cm Weft 40.0 threads/cm Table 3 (1) Process stability Yarn breakage rate 0.3% (n=1000) (2 ) Winding yarn Primary yield point 2.6 g/de (3) Weaving properties Good (4) Fabric No staining spots (warps) at all (5) Texture and feel after shrinkage treatment Swelling of silk, soft feeling (6) Good drapability (similar to silk) (7) Creep test 0.3% Items (5) and (6) are based on sensory tests, and item (7) is based on JIS.
Based on test method L1080-1967. As can be seen from the above examples, according to the present invention, the starting yarn has a relatively high primary yield point and is bundled, so it not only has excellent weavability, but also has dyeing spots, especially warp fibers. It is possible to obtain a fabric that exhibits a silk-like texture without any concerns about irritation, and without any irritation. On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained by omitting the alkali weight loss treatment in the above example had no bulge, was hard to the touch, and lacked drapability. Furthermore, when polyester flat yarn 50de/24fil was used as the warp in the examples, the fullness and drape properties were significantly inferior to those of Example 1. Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, the turbulent nozzle 8, the guide 9,
The buffer 10 and the slit heater 11 were removed, and instead a roll having a diameter of 40 cm and heated to 180° C. was installed to subject the drawn yarn to an instant heat treatment. The tension between the roll and the pull-out roller system 11 is
It was 0.001g/de. Table 4 shows the process stability, the appearance of the heat-treated yarn, and the properties of a fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the heat-treated yarn as the warp.

[Table] As is clear from the above table, the fabrics with good feel and texture obtained by suspending single fibers to form loops and slack during heat shrinkage have poor weavability. On the other hand, those with fewer loops and sag improve weavability, but have poor process stability and texture. In order to improve this weaving property, the heat-treated filament yarn is run under a tension of 20 g/de at 60 m/min over a plate heater (effective contact length 4 cm) heated to 210°C to eliminate slack and loops. A substantially straight filament yarn was prepared, and a woven fabric was obtained from this filament yarn. In this case, the weavability was improved as well as that of ordinary filament, but the woven fabric treated with boiling water had poor swelling.
It was observed that the patient's lower back, etc., were rapidly decreasing. Example 2 The latent bulky polyester multifilament yarn (50 de / 36 fils) of Example 1 was used as the warp to create polyester first-twisted false twisted processed yarn 50 de / 24 fils (number of first twists 800t /
A deshin fabric was prepared according to the specifications shown in Table 5 using 2 yarns (m, S, and Z alternately, with the false twisting direction being the twisting direction) as the weft yarns. Table 5 (1) Thread used Warp 300t/m Weft S, Z 2 threads alternating (2) Reed Density 3 threads 19.8 threads/cm (3) Weft Density 34.3 threads/cm (4) Relax rotary washers 95℃×25
Minutes (5) Preset 180℃ x 45 seconds (6) Alkali weight loss 35g/, 98℃ NaOH aqueous solution, weight loss rate 15.3% (7) Dyeing Uniace (manufactured by Nippon Senkiki) 130℃ x 50 minutes (8) Final set: 160℃ x 45 seconds (9) Finish density: Warp 68.5 threads/cm, Weft 41.2 threads/cm The obtained fabric has better fullness and drape properties than conventional first-twisted woolly deshin. It also had excellent softness.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram of entangled parts and bulging parts inherent in a multifilament yarn, FIG. Figure 3 is a side view of a filament yarn with an overhang before heat shrinkage treatment, and Figure 4 shows the difference in boiling water shrinkage within and between the filaments that occurs when the filament yarn in Figure 3 is heat treated under tension. Graphs to be explained, FIG. 5 is a side view of the filament yarn in FIG. 3 after heat treatment (shrinkage) under tension, FIG. 6 is a side view of the filament yarn with Cournoult loops after heat treatment, and FIG. The figure is a side view of the filament yarn shown in Figure 5 after being relaxed in hot water at 95°C for 20 minutes, and Figure 8 is an explanatory diagram of the size of the overhang. In Fig. 1, B: bulge, C: tightened portion, l _C : length of the tightened portion, l _B : shortest distance of the bulge in the yarn axis direction. In FIG. 2, 1... undrawn yarn, 5... supply roller system, 6... take-off drawing roller system, 7...
Stretched yarn, 8...Interlace (turbulent flow) nozzle,
9... Guide, 10... Buffer, 11... Slit heater, 12, 12'... Thread turning guide. In FIG. 3, 15...multifilament yarn, 16...monofilament, 17...overhanging portion. In Fig. 5, Pl ₁ to Pl _o ...low contraction area, Ph ₁
~Ph _o ...High contraction area. In FIG. 6, 18...Heat-shrinked Cournot loop. In Fig. 8, H...height of the overhang, L
...This is the length of the overhang.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. The following properties (a) to (c): (a) Boiling water shrinkage rate of 13% or less; (b) Bulges that occur when heat treated in a comb shape for 5 minutes at 195°C. Filaments with a maximum filament wavelength of 15 mm or less, a maximum yarn length difference of 15% or less, and a yarn length difference of 3 to 12% account for 15% or more of the total number of filaments. Potentially bulky polyester multifilament yarn exhibiting a bulkiness of 14.0 cm ³ /g or more is twisted at most 800T/M to form the warp yarn, while the weft yarn is a group consisting of woolly yarn and filaments with substantially no crimpability. A method for producing a filament fabric with improved drapability, characterized by subjecting a fabric comprising twisted multifilament yarns of at least 600 T/M selected from the above and arranged in the weft to alkali weight reduction. 2. The method for producing a filament woven fabric with improved drapability according to claim 1, wherein the number of twists of the warp yarns is 300 to 800 T/M. 3. The method for producing a filament woven fabric with improved drapability according to claim 1, wherein the weft is a pre-twisted woolly textured yarn. 4. The method for producing a filament woven fabric with improved drapability according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn used as the weft has a twist number of 2000 T/M or more. 5 Claim 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 in which the alkali weight loss process is 10 to 30 wt%
A method for producing a filament fabric with improved drapability as described in 2.