JPS6254896B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a shantan-like yarn using a continuous multi-filament yarn. Conventionally, slub yarns having thick and thin yarns in the longitudinal direction have been widely used as an effective means for changing the appearance of fabrics. In particular, in recent years, reflecting the natural fiber-oriented market, continuous multifilament yarns have been approached and produced. If we look at this from a patent perspective, for example,
Many proposals have been made, including 16895, 45-28018, 47-49459, and 50-35147. However, in both methods, the yarn is heat-set in the twisting region during false twisting, resulting in a crimped yarn, and it is necessary to maintain a high false-twisting temperature in order to improve the cohesiveness of the two yarns. This is particularly undesirable when obtaining a silky texture. Furthermore, for the same reason, this is not an appropriate method when using, for example, a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn that is currently evaluated to be the silkiest. On the other hand, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-30174, there is a proposal to form countless loops of filaments of wound yarn around the core yarn without heat setting in the twisting region. It is suggested that the yarn obtained below has a looped form. Therefore, the resulting fabric will have loops protruding from the surface, and even if it has a silky feel, it will be completely different in appearance from a shantung made of real silk. We focused on this point and conducted various studies, and as a result, we found that under certain specific conditions, a slub yarn with virtually no loops can be obtained. That is, the gist of the present invention is that the core yarn A, which is made of a multi-filament yarn that has been false-twisted by a false-twisting method that does not perform heat fixation in the twisting region, has other multi-filament yarns in the twisting region. When supplying the wound yarn B made of thread yarn and winding it around the core yarn A, the twist coefficient ((α)) when twisting the core yarn A
is 15,500 to 10,600, the twist coefficient ((β)) of the wrapped yarn B is 1100 to 0, and the direction of twist of the wrapped yarn B is the same as the twisting direction of the core yarn A. The winding yarn B must have a latent shrinkage of 15% or more at the dry heat temperature at which its thermal stress is at its maximum, and the winding yarn B must not be pulled after winding around the core yarn A. Next, there is a method for producing a slanted yarn characterized by heat-treating the wound yarn B at a dry heat temperature at which the thermal stress is at its maximum and at a temperature below (melting point -50° C.). However, α=T _A √ _A , β= T _B √ _B , and T _A is the number of twists (T/M) when core yarn A is false twisted alone, D _A
is the denier of the core yarn A, and similarly, T _B and D _B are related to the wrapped yarn B. The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings. Fig. 1 is a side view showing an example of an apparatus used for carrying out the present invention, and in the figure, a core yarn A is installed between two pairs of rollers 1 and 2. The twisted yarn B is falsely twisted by the twisting device 3, and the wrapped yarn B is fed to the twisting area by another roller 4. Since the object of the present invention is to provide a slub yarn having a silky feel and substantially no loops, it is necessary to not perform heat setting in the twisting region in order to obtain a preferable feel. However, as seen in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-30174, under normal conditions, the yarn obtained has loops 5 as shown in Figure 2, which gives the appearance of protruding loops on the surface of the fabric, resulting in a shunt. It is not preferable for expressing a toned appearance. The present inventors investigated various methods of reducing loops while applying slabs, and obtained the results shown in Table 1.

[Table] From the results in Table 1, the following became clear. Number of twists (twist coefficient) of yarn A in the twisting area shown in Figure 1
The number of twists (twist coefficient) of yarn B to be twisted around yarn A that is being twisted, the twisting direction of yarn A, and yarn B
The twist direction of yarn A is an extremely important factor in loop generation and slab form, and the preferred condition is that the number of twists of yarn A is 2200 to 1500 T/M (twisting coefficient is 15556 to
10607 However, twist coefficient = number of twists T/M x √ denier of yarn), and the number of twists of yarn B is 156 to 0T/
M (twist coefficient: 1103 to 0), and the most preferable condition is that the twist coefficient of yarn A = 14142 to 0.
10610, it has been found that the important conditions are that the twist coefficient of yarn B is 848 to 0, and that the twisting direction of yarn A and the twisting direction of yarn B are not the same. The reason for this is not clear, but the number of twists in yarn A affects the difference in yarn length per unit length between yarns A and B after untwisting and twisting, and therefore regulates the appropriate range for maintaining cohesiveness. This is thought to be a synergistic effect of maintaining convergence by ensuring that the torques of the yarns A and B do not go in opposite directions after untwisting. However, in the process of conducting an expanded study, it became clear that especially when used in fabrics with a high warp density, adjacent threads may become entangled and the opening may not be smooth. That is, as shown in FIG. 3, it became clear that some of the obtained slub yarns were cracked 6 and became entangled with each other due to shedding motion. In order to solve this problem, a method of additional twisting can be considered, but it is economically disadvantageous, and after various studies on other methods, yarn B was heated at the dry heat temperature (T°C) where the thermal stress is maximum. The yarn has a latent shrinkage rate of 15% or more, and after being wound around the core yarn A as shown in Fig. 4, it is heated to a temperature (T°C) or higher at which the thermal stress is at its maximum on the hot plate 7. And (melting point -50℃)
We have found a method for fixing around the core thread A by making the shrinkage more apparent by heat treatment as described below. Here, the dry heat shrinkage rate at T°C was used as an index.In order to maintain the silky texture, it is preferable to shrink effectively at as low a temperature as possible, and also to use the second heater of the false twisting machine. This is because it is economically advantageous. To explain further, Table 2 shows the heat shrinkage rate (1 m
The skein was wound around the frame 100 times, the skein length (l ₀ ) was measured at an initial load of 0.1 g/d, and after free shrinkage for 10 minutes in T℃ dry heat, the skein was measured again at 0.1 g/d. This figure shows the relationship between the thermal shrinkage rate (expressed as {(l ₀ − l)/l ₀ }×100) and the openness and texture when the second heater temperature is changed from the length (l). . The shrinkage rate is set according to the spinning speed as shown in Figure 5.
Denier obtained at 2000m/min is 186, number of filaments
24 undrawn polyester yarn 8 at a stretching ratio of 2.381,
The results were obtained by setting the first pin 9 temperature to 85°C, the winding speed to 650 m/min, and changing the second pin 10 temperature, and the dry heat temperature (T°C) at which the thermal stress is maximum is all
The melting point (by differential heating) was 258°C. The conditions during false twisting were as follows. Core yarn A is polyester, bright 50 denier,
Using a regular yarn with a filament count of 24, the twisting direction Z of the core yarn A in Fig. 1, the number of twists is 1900T/M, the twisting direction S of the other yarn B, the number of twists 13T/M, a false twisting machine. LS−
6 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.), the overfeed amount in the second heater was set to +3.0%, and the second heater temperature was changed. The other conditions were the same as in Table 1. In addition, for the evaluation of the opening, the warp density was 40.0 feathers/2 yarns/inch,
The texture was plain woven and the loom was rotated at 120 revolutions/min for visual judgment.

[Table] From the results in Table 2, the following can be said. In order to maintain the silky texture which is the object of the present invention, the temperature of the second heater needs to be 210°C, that is, below the melting point -50°C. In addition, effective heat treatment is necessary to improve the opening property, and the temperature is the temperature at which the thermal stress is maximum, and the shrinkage rate at that time is the same.
It needs to be 15.0% or more. The present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples below. Example 1 Using a two-heater type false twisting machine (LS-6, manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) with the temperature of the first heater 11 set to room temperature as shown in FIG. Bright 75 denier, 36 filament, shrinkage rate after dry heat treatment at 160℃ x 10 minutes
10.3%, twist number 14T/MS, winding yarn B is polyester, bright 50 denier, 24 filament, and the shrinkage rate after dry heat treatment at 160℃ x 10 minutes is 20.0
%, the number of twists is 13T/MS, and the number of twists of core yarn A is
1800T/M Z, and set the circumferential speed of rollers 12 and 13 so that the tension at this time is 8g. Overfeed the wound yarn B by roller 14.
The yarn was twisted around core yarn A at 70% (peripheral speed of roller 14 relative to roller 13). Subsequently, the temperature of the second heater 15 was set to 160° C., the overfeed amount in the second heater 15 was set to +3.0%, and the peripheral speed of the roller 16 was set to 100 m/min. After sizing, the obtained slub yarn was used as the warp, and woven in a plain weave at the following weaving specifications: slub yarn (warp) x slub yarn (weft)/42.5 threads/2/inches x 45.0 threads/inch. The results showed good opening movement, and the finished fabric had a shantung style with excellent drapability. Example 2 Using the same false twisting machine as in Example 1, the core yarn A and wound yarn B were both polyester, 37.5 denier, and 18 filament, a high shrinkage component with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 17.5%, and the remaining components were boiled water. Using bright 75 denier, 36 filament with 15T/MS twist and mixed fiber with low shrinkage component with shrinkage rate of 7.5%, core yarn A
The number of twists is 1800T/M Z, and the tension at this time is 8
A post-wound yarn B with a weight of 70% was twisted around the core yarn A with an overfied amount of 70%. Continuing, the temperature of the second heater was set to 160°C, the overfeed amount in the second heater was set to 15%, and the roller 16
The peripheral speed was set at 100 m/min. The obtained slub yarn had bulk and had good convergence. Using this slub yarn, the warp was glued, the structure was plain weave, and the weaving standard was slub yarn (warp) x slub yarn (weft) / 40.0 threads / 2 / inch x 43.0 threads / inch. . The results showed good opening movement, and when the fabric was finished, it had a shantung style with excellent drapability.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

1, 4 and 6 are side views showing various examples of devices used to carry out the present invention, and FIGS.
The figure is a side view of a conventional yarn, and FIG. 5 is a perspective view showing an example of an apparatus used for manufacturing a wound yarn according to the present invention. In FIGS. 1 to 6, 1 is a supply roller for core yarn A; 2 is a take-up roller, 3 is a twisting device, 4 is a winding yarn supply roller, and 7 is a heater.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Wrapped yarn B made of another multi-filament yarn is placed in the twisting region of core yarn A made of multi-filament yarn which has been false-twisted by a false twisting method without heat setting in the twisting region. When feeding and winding the core yarn A, the twist coefficient of the core yarn A when twisting should be 15560 to 10600, the twist coefficient of the winding yarn B should be 1100 to 0, and the twist coefficient of the winding yarn B should be 15560 to 10600. The direction of the twist is not the same as the twisting direction of the core yarn A, and the wrapped yarn B has a latent shrinkage of 15% or more at a dry heat temperature where its thermal stress is at its maximum. and a shantan-like yarn characterized in that after winding the winding yarn B around the core yarn A, the winding yarn B is heat-treated at a dry heat temperature at which the thermal stress of the winding yarn B is at its maximum but at or below (melting point -50°C). manufacturing method.