JPH0765265B2 - Method for producing suede-like woven fabric having wrinkles - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric having a wrinkle and a soft texture.

(Prior Art) Recently, a combination of wrinkle processing, weight reduction processing, and dyeing processing has become popular in the market, and moreover, consumers have demanded a flexible textured product with a raised hair processing. Nevertheless, such products have not been developed yet. The reason for this is that there were problems such as the disappearance of wrinkles during processing and the reduction in strength due to the combination of the weight reduction treatment and the raising treatment.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention has been made in view of such a situation as described above, and the wrinkle processing effect disappears in the subsequent steps (weight reduction step, dyeing step, raising step, etc.) after wrinkling. The purpose is to produce a wrinkled suede-like woven fabric that has a small amount of weight loss, a reduction in strength due to weight loss and raising, and a good feeling after raising and also has a soft texture due to weight reduction processing. Is.

(Means for Solving Problems) The present invention achieves the above object and has the following configuration.

That is, according to the present invention, a large fineness yarn and a fineness fine yarn of synthetic long fibers are used, and the overfeed of each is made to be the former 1.01 to 1.5 with respect to the former 1 and false twisted, and then mixed with air jet. Synthetic fibers with a total fineness of 50 to 300 denier, different fineness and mixed bulky yarn are used for both warp and weft yarns or weft yarns to weave a woven fabric, and then wrinkling is performed by adding wrinkles and heat fixing. A gist of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric having wrinkles, which is characterized in that a weight reduction treatment of 3 to 40% and a raising treatment of the fabric surface are subsequently performed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, first, a synthetic fiber long-fiber thick-definition yarn and a fine-definition yarn are used, the respective overfeeds are set to the latter 1.01 to 1.5 with respect to the former 1, and false twisting is performed, followed by air-jet mixed fiber. A synthetic fiber having a total fineness of 50 to 300 denier and a mixed high-density bulked yarn is woven using both warp and weft yarns or weft yarns.

Examples of the synthetic fibers used in the present invention include polyester-based and polyamide-based synthetic fibers, and it is preferable to use polyester-based synthetic fibers that are easy to reduce in weight.

Further, in the present invention, the use of the thick fine yarn and the fine fine yarn is
This is to improve the retention of the patterning when the high-definition raw yarn is wrinkled, and to prevent an extreme decrease in strength during weight reduction or raising. The single filament fineness as the thick fine yarn is 1 denier or more, preferably 2 to 4 denier, and the total fineness of the thick fine yarn alone is preferably 30 to 250 denier. The reason for using the fine fiber is to soften the feeling and to improve the feel, that is, to the touch. The single filament fineness as the fine fiber is 1 denier or less and 0.1 to 0.7 denier. Preferably 0.1
When it is less than denier, the texture and feel are good, but it is not preferable because it becomes difficult to adjust the weight reduction rate in consideration of the strength reduction due to weight loss. Fine fineness The total fineness of the raw yarn alone is about 20 to 150 denier. In order to obtain a soft feel of the product surface with this fineness yarn, the fibers that make up the fineness yarn should be as close to the fabric surface as possible after weaving, and the fibers that make up the fineness yarn should be sunk inside. Therefore, it is preferable that the overfeed of each of the former and the latter is 1.01 by using the thick fine yarn and the fine fine yarn of the synthetic fiber.
After false twisting with a false twist of ~ 1.5 (number of false twists 1500 to 3000 times / m), mix with air jet. Thus, the high-density fibers are entangled in the core, and the fine-density fibers are entangled with the large-definition fibers, and the overfeed component becomes a loop, and a large amount of the mixed-fiber high-density processed yarn floats outward and floats. The total fineness of this yarn is 50-30
About 0 denier is appropriate.

After over-twisting the overfeed of each of the thick fine yarn and the fine fine yarn with the latter 1.01 to 1.5 with respect to the former 1, the air jet is mixed. The latter is 1.01 or less, the fine fine yarn is the thick fine yarn. Is less likely to come to the outside of the
This is because if the latter is 1.5 or more, the loop of the fineness yarn becomes large and the weavability deteriorates. Preferably, the overfeed during false twist is 1.03 to 1.10 for the former and 1 for the latter.
Is the range. The twist may be applied if necessary, but as the twist increases, the fineness of the fine yarn in the floating state sinks, making the feel uncomfortable and making it difficult to perform the raising process to be performed later. Is 0 to 300 times / m.

After the above-described weaving process, in the present invention, a wrinkling process is performed in which wrinkles are added to the woven fabric and heat-fixed. The wrinkling method is as follows: the woven fabric is made into a rope, packed into bags, and treated with warm water at 60 to 120 ° C for 30 to 60 minutes using normal pressure or high pressure washer. , There is a method of treating under the same conditions, a method of winding in a rope shape around a contractible tube, and a steam heat treatment with a steam setter. When twisting a woven fabric into a rope shape, twist it as necessary. You may make it wrinkle more. If this wrinkling is performed on the woven fabric immediately after weaving, the wrinkling effect is large,
The durability of wrinkles is also improved. If the wrinkling process is performed after the hot water treatment or heat set is performed in a spread form, the wrinkling effect is small.

After the wrinkling process, in the present invention, a reduction process of 3 to 40% is performed to make the texture soft. As a weight reduction method, it is desirable to use a synthetic synthetic fiber of polyester type to reduce the weight by an alkali. Usually, a method of performing a treatment in a bath heated with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide or applying an alkali solution and then performing a steaming treatment is used. To use. The batch type is preferable to the continuous spreading process in terms of wrinkle retention. This weight reduction process is
It is recommended to hang or rope. The weight of polyamide synthetic fiber is reduced in an acid bath such as formic acid.

After the weight reduction process, a dyeing process is performed if necessary. When dyeing polyester-based synthetic fibers, disperse dyes are used, and dyeing is performed with a jet-type high-pressure dyeing machine at 130 to 140 ° C for 30 to 60 minutes, followed by reduction washing. In the case of polyamide-based synthetic fibers, acid dye or disperse dye is used and jet dyeing is performed under normal pressure. Rope-like dyeing is preferable to dyeing in a spread-like manner in terms of wrinkle retention and texture.

After dyeing, washing, drying, etc., heat setting or the like is usually performed to fix the width, but it is important not to force the width in the length direction or width direction of the fabric. If excessive tension is applied, the effect of exposing the fine fiber as a loop in a floating state to the outside of the fine fiber is lost, the feeling due to the fine fiber is lost, and the wrinkling effect is also lost, so be careful. It is desirable to perform heat-setting as needed and at a low temperature of 160-180 ° C.

After that, raising is performed in the present invention. Prior to raising the hair, a pretreatment such as a raising agent may be performed, if necessary. For raising the hair, a raising machine using a cloth roll, a sand roll, a sand belt or the like can be used. Regarding the degree of brushing, it is desirable to obtain a suede-like surface by keeping the surface lightly brushed in order to take advantage of the feel of fine fiber. When raising with a sand roll or sand belt, it is necessary to pay attention to the tension so that the strength of the corners of the wrinkles does not decrease, and it is most suitable according to the degree of wrinkles formed during wrinkling. It is advisable to select a raised machine. Depending on the desired degree of raising, the weaving of the woven fabric as a weft satin etc. at the time of weaving may be appropriately designed as necessary.

The present invention has the above constitution, and according to the present invention, a suede-like woven fabric having wrinkles can be produced without the problem of reduction in strength.

(Working) In the method of the present invention, a large fine yarn and a fine fine yarn of synthetic long fibers are used, and the overfeed of each is set to 1.01 to 1.5 of the latter with respect to the former 1, and after false false bulking, air jet mixing is performed. A fine thread is used as a woven thread. In a fabric using such yarns, fine fine fibers having a large overfeed are arranged on the surface and large fine fibers having a small overfeed are arranged inside the fabric, so that wrinkles are added to the fabric for heat setting. Then, the fine-fineness fibers located inside the fabric retain the wrinkle shape with a force proportional to the thickness, and the subsequent weight reduction treatment forms fiber gaps to give a soft texture, and at the time of raising treatment, The fine fibers located on the surface are exclusively raised to form a suede-like surface. Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to manufacture a suede-like woven fabric having a soft texture and having wrinkles.

(Examples) Next, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples.

Example 1 Polyester multifilament yarn 50d / 24f (single yarn fineness about 2.1d thick fine yarn) and polyester multifilament yarn 55d / 196f (single yarn fineness about 0.3d fine fine yarn) are used for false twist bulkiness processing When performing (twisting number of false twists 2,400 times / m), the overfeed was subjected to false twist bulking under the conditions of the former 1 and the latter 1.03, and subsequently air jet mixed fibers. The processed yarn after mixed with air jet has a total fineness of about 105 denier, and its shape is such that the fineness fibers are clinging to the outer layer of the fineness fibers, and the fineness fibers are straight. In contrast to the close state, the fine-fineness fiber was in a state of waviness in an S shape, and showed a fine uneven shape.

By using this mixed fiber processed yarn as warp and weft, weaving density
A plain weave with 131 pieces / inch, 72 wefts / inch, and a weaving width of 160 cm was woven. The obtained raw machine was passed through a circular slit with an inner diameter of 10 cm to form a rope, which was then wound around a retractable stainless steel cylinder while applying a twist of about 3 times per 1 m, and this was used as a steam setter. After being charged, it was subjected to high-pressure saturated steam treatment at 120 ° C for 30 minutes. After wrinkling, the woven fabric was taken out of the steam setter, rapidly cooled with water, untwisted to form a spread fabric, and then subjected to ordinary relaxax refining in an alkaline bath containing a nonionic surfactant. Then, using a closed-type, retention-type processing machine that can perform weight reduction processing in a spread state, it is dipped in an aqueous solution with a sodium hydroxide concentration of 8% in a spread state, then uniformly squeezed with a mangle at a squeezing rate of 38%, and then , 108
After treatment with steam at a temperature of 2 ° C. for 2 minutes and a temperature of 103 ° C. for 8 minutes with superheated steam, washing with water, neutralization, washing with water, and drying were sequentially performed.

The weight loss rate of the obtained woven fabric was about 11%. This fabric is
While keeping the wrinkles, it felt a soft texture due to weight loss.

Then, using a jet dyeing machine, the following formulation 1 was used at 135 ° C and 30
Staining was carried out for 1 minute and stained blue.

Prescription 1 Dyanix Red U-SE (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd., disperse dye) 0.14% owf Dyanix Blue U-SE (same as above) 2.8% owf Dyanix Bio-Res 5RSE (same as above)
Above) 0.75% owf Sunsalt RZ-8 (Nippon Kagaku Kogyo Co., Ltd., dispersion level detergent)
0.5g / Formic acid (98%) 0.1cc / Here, after normal reduction washing, dehydration and drying, width 140cm, overfeed rate 3%, temperature 170 so that wrinkles do not disappear
Following the presetting at 40 ° C. for 40 seconds, raising was performed under the following conditions. The surface of each of five rolls having a diameter of 200 mm was wrapped with sandpaper with a grain size of 150 (manufactured by Riken Norton Co., Ltd.), and lightly contacted with a woven fabric at 1500 RPM to raise the hair.

Many short fluffs appeared on the surface of the obtained woven fabric, and most of these fluffs were fine-fine fibers, and the fine-fine fibers gave a better feeling than after dyeing, and wrinkles Combined with the effects of processing and weight reduction processing,
It was a high-quality suede-like woven fabric with a wrinkle and a soft texture. Furthermore, the product finished with a small amount of antistatic agent, softening agent, and water repellent was further improved in quality. In addition, the strength was measured by the JIS-L-1096 Penzirum method, and it was 2.1 kg and 1.2 kg in weight.

(Effects of the Invention) The present invention forms a woven fabric using a synthetic fiber-blended bulky processed yarn in which fine-fineness fibers are arranged in an outer layer portion of thick-fineness fibers, and bends, wrinkle-processes by heat treatment, and weight-reduction treatment, According to the present invention having such a configuration, which is combined with a raising process, the formed wrinkles do not disappear during subsequent processing, and the texture is soft and the suede having wrinkles is formed. A woven fabric can be produced.

Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Office reference number FI Technical display location D02G 1/02 D03D 25/00 102 Z D06M 11/32 11/84

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A total yarn obtained by false-twisting the overfeeds of the former 1 to the latter 1.01 to 1.5 by using a thick fine yarn and a fine fine yarn of synthetic long fibers and mixing them with an air jet. Synthetic fibers with a fineness of 50-300 denier Different bulk and fine bulk yarns are used for both warp and weft yarns or wefts to weave a woven fabric, then wrinkles are added to the fabric for heat setting, and then wrinkled. A method for producing a suede-like woven fabric having wrinkles, which comprises performing a weight reduction treatment of 3 to 40% and raising the surface of the woven fabric.