JPS648740B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of polyester filaments that have not been mechanically crimped, and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric that uses polyester conjugate yarn and has stretchability that retains its original filament texture without subjecting it to mechanical crimp heat treatment, and a method for producing the same. Conventionally, the method of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric that has the feel of a filament (flat yarn) and has stretch properties is to overfeed the fabric into a pressing method (between a pair of belts) in the dyeing process, and then heat set it. There is a method of imparting stretchability to spandex, or a method of using so-called covering yarn, which is obtained by twisting covering filaments into spandex. However, the former physically imparts stretchability to only one side in the warp direction, but there are problems such as unstable process control of the stretching process, poor stretch robustness, and insufficient stretch bag, and the product has been removed from the market. It has almost disappeared. The latter uses spandex, which increases the cost of raw yarn and the low productivity inherent to twisting machines, making the product expensive, so it is only used in some high-end fields. In addition, mixed woven fabrics of crimped yarns and filament yarns are seen in the field of linings, but not only must the stretching direction be unidirectional, but the stretchability of the crimped yarns is insufficient, so first-twisted yarns are used. At present, the yarns are either twisted or post-twisted. As a result of various studies in order to solve these problems at once and provide a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of filaments easily and inexpensively, the present invention has developed a polyester composite with latent crimp that contains polybutylene terephthalate as one of its constituent components. If a woven or knitted fabric is made using an interlaced yarn of a jugate filament yarn, the phase and torque direction of the constituent filaments are already randomized, so the appearance of grain is suppressed.
It has been found that a fabric with a filament texture and good stretch properties can be obtained instead. Thus, according to the present invention, (1) a woven or knitted fabric using interlaced yarns of polyester conjugate filaments containing polybutylene terephthalate as a constituent component, wherein the conjugate yarns undergo apparent crimp due to mutual entanglement of the constituent filaments; and (2) a latent crimp type polyester conjugate filament yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate as one component. After applying a gentle twist of 500T/M or less and then supplying the lightly twisted yarn to a fluid injection treatment area under low overfeed, the entangled yarn was woven and knitted and then subjected to a relaxation treatment to eliminate the apparent crimp. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material is provided, which is characterized in that the phase and direction are randomized. Furthermore, in this regard, polyester conjugate yarn with latent crimp containing polyethylene terephthalate as one of its constituent components is untreated or twisted after being spun, and its constituent filaments are not easily crimped in the subsequent revealing treatment process. Not only are the phases relatively aligned, but they also show the same direction even in the torque direction, so crimp occurs due to torque in the longitudinal direction of the thread as a whole, so the appearance of grain on the fabric surface is unavoidable. If elongation heat setting is performed to eliminate the developed grain, naturally the stretchability will also disappear. However, in order to obtain stretchability as a filament with a latent crimp type conjugate yarn, it is best to suppress the appearance of grain as much as possible when it appears, and if no grain appears at all, it is better to finish it as it is. It has been found that maximum extensibility is ensured. The key point is how to effectively replace the expression force of the grain with the contraction force, and the higher the purity of this substitution, the better the quality of the filament when used to create a woven or knitted fabric. This provides stretchability. The conjugate yarn used in the present invention is composed of a polybutylene terephthalate polymer and another polyester polymer, preferably a polyethylene terephthalate polymer, and the composite form is side-by-side type,
It may be of any type, such as an eccentric sea-core type or a sea-island type. However, in terms of filament stretchability, the side-by-side type shows the best results. These components may be copolymerized or blended with a third component, usually not more than 15 mol or weight percent, and may further contain additives such as matting agents, colorants, flame retardants, and the like. Further, there are no particular limitations on the cross-sectional single fiber denier, total denier, etc. of the conjugate filament. In general, stretch properties can be obtained if the single fiber denier is 2 d or more, but it may be selected as appropriate depending on the desired texture and stretch properties, and 3 to 4 d is commonly used. Regarding the number of constituent filaments, 20 or more is preferable because if the number is less than a certain number, the texture tends to become rough and hard, and the effect of the subsequent entangling treatment is also difficult to be exhibited. Furthermore, the composite ratio of polybutylene polymer and polyethylene terephthalate polymer is 3/7 to 7/3.
selected from the range. If the ratio of polybutylene polymer is increased, color fastness tends to deteriorate, so a ratio of 3/7 to 4/6 is preferable. Next, the intrinsic viscosity [η] of each polymer is suitably 0.65 or more for polybutylene terephthalate, particularly preferably in the range of 0.9 to 1.0. On the other hand, for the polyethylene terephthalate side, a range of 0.35 to 0.5 is appropriate. The larger the difference [η] between these two, the better the stretchability. In a conjugate yarn made of such components, the state in which the constituent filaments are intertwined with each other means that the filament arrangement state is extremely different from that of the untreated constituent filaments. That is, in a normal flat yarn, the phases are not only relatively aligned in the revealing treatment process, but also show the same direction even in the torque direction, but in the present invention, it refers to a state in which the torque direction and phase are disordered for each filament. In the present invention, a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric will be explained. First, latent crimp type conduit gate yarn
It is necessary to apply a gentle twist of 500T/M or less. The influence that this twisted yarn has on the conduit yarn not only shifts the phase of the constituent filaments after spinning, but also greatly contributes to reducing the crimp size. however
Even if the yarn is twisted over 500T/M, the grain will not disappear, and the tightening force of the constituent filaments will become extremely high, so the stretchability will deteriorate on the contrary.A twisting process will be necessary as the torque will increase due to other twisted yarns. become. The number of twists is related to the total denier, but generally 300 to 400 T/M is appropriate since no twisting step is required. The loosely twisted yarn must then be fed under low overfeed to a fluid jet treatment zone to open and entangle the constituent filaments. The overfeed rate is closely related to the opening and entangling effect, and the higher the value, the better the effect, but if it is too high, the texture of the filament will decrease and change to a sublime Suban-like texture. . Therefore, in order to maintain the texture of the filament, it is important to keep the filament to 15% or less, and the conditions are generally determined within the range of 5 to 15%, taking into account the total denier of the yarn to be treated, the denier of single fibers, etc. do it. The Taslan nozzle is the most suitable fluid injection treatment method, but the key is to shift the phase of each constituent filament in the longitudinal direction, spread it so that the torque directionality is randomized, and create a slight entanglement state. Since it contracts relatively freely during the revealing process, the appearance of grains is suppressed. When this entangled yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has already been lightly twisted, which prevents the occurrence of fuzz, and the fluid jet treatment also reduces the torque caused by the twisted yarn. Therefore, it is easy to handle during fabric production, and no special consideration is required. The obtained gray fabric is then subjected to a dyeing and finishing process, but in this case, unlike the processing method for filament fabrics, it can be carried out according to the processing method for processed yarn woven and knitted fabrics.
Good results can be obtained with fractional processing. In this way, according to the present invention, the texture of the filament is obtained;
Moreover, a woven or knitted fabric without grains can be obtained, which can be applied to casual products such as jackets and windbreakers, as well as areas that require a high degree of smoothness, such as linings for thin fabrics. There is an advantage that a fabric having stretchability in two directions as well as one can be freely obtained. Example 1 (1) Raw yarn Latent crimp type conjugate yarn 150d/36f (a) Polybutylene terephthalate [η] = 1.10
4 (b) Polyethylene terephthalate [η] = 0.47
6 Spinning speed 2500m/min Stretching ratio 1.9x Usage ratio a:b=2:3 (2) Twisting yarn 300T/M (no set) Italian twisting machine (3) Fluid injection treatment Taslan processing machine pneumatic pressure 4Kg/cm ² OF. 15% (4) Fabric (using the above entangled yarn) Warp density used for both warp and weft: 45 feathers / 2 whales Weft density: 80 fibers / whale flat structure (5) Dyed finish Relatux Liquid flow method 100℃× 30 minutes dyeing Color Liquid flow method 130℃ x 45 minutes Finishing 160℃ x 45 seconds (6) Applications Ideal for jackets and coats

[Table] Example 2 (1) Raw yarn Latent crimp type conjugate yarn 50d/12f (a) Polybutylene terephthalate [η] = 0.87
5 〓 (b) Polyethylene terephthalate [η] = 0.47
5 Spinning speed 2500m/min Stretching 1.9 times Usage ratio a:b=1:1 (2) Twisting 500T/M Noset Italian twisting machine (3) Fluid injection treatment Taslan processing machine OF 10% Air pressure 4Kg/cm ² ( 4) Fabric (using the above entangled yarn) Warp Polyester 50d/24 85 whales/whale x 2 Weft PBT/PET 50/12 500T/M Fluid injection treatment density 140/whale texture Flat (5) Dyed finish Examples Same as 1 (6) Application: Ideal as lining

【table】

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric using interlaced yarns of polyester conjugate filaments containing polybutylene terephthalate as one component, wherein the conjugate yarns have a variable phase and direction of apparent crimp due to mutual entanglement of the constituent filaments. A polyester woven or knitted fabric characterized by being woven and knitted in a randomized state. 2. The polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, which uses a conjugate filament yarn in which the other component is polyethylene terephthalate, which has a lower viscosity than polybutylene terephthalate. 3. The polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, which has substantially no grain on its surface. 4 A latent crimp type polyester conjugate filament yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate as one component is subjected to a gentle twist of 500T/M or less,
Next, the lightly twisted yarn is fed to a fluid injection treatment area under low overfeed, and the resulting entangled yarn is subjected to a relaxation treatment after weaving and knitting, so that the phase and direction of the developed apparent crimp are randomized. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material. 5. The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 4, using a conjugate filament yarn in which the other component is polyethylene terephthalate, which has a lower viscosity than polybutylene terephthalate. 6. The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein the overfeed rate is 15% or less.