KR100919467B1 - Denim like synthetic facbric - Google Patents

Denim like synthetic facbric

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Publication number
KR100919467B1
KR100919467B1 KR1020090008703A KR20090008703A KR100919467B1 KR 100919467 B1 KR100919467 B1 KR 100919467B1 KR 1020090008703 A KR1020090008703 A KR 1020090008703A KR 20090008703 A KR20090008703 A KR 20090008703A KR 100919467 B1 KR100919467 B1 KR 100919467B1
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KR
South Korea
Prior art keywords
yarn
multifilament
denim
fabric
nylon
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KR1020090008703A
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Korean (ko)
Inventor
정창욱
상 욱 김
명 순 김
Original Assignee
정창욱
한국염색기술연구소
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Application filed by 정창욱, 한국염색기술연구소 filed Critical 정창욱
Priority to KR1020090008703A priority Critical patent/KR100919467B1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of KR100919467B1 publication Critical patent/KR100919467B1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/12Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0056Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/39General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

Abstract

PURPOSE: Denim like synthetic fiber fabric is provided to offer luster, tactility and excellent bulky property such as natural fiber fabric, and to implement a white dot tone on the surface of the fiber fabric. CONSTITUTION: A warp is nylon air texturing yarn. A weft is complex air texturing yarn in which core yarn(A) and effect yarns(B) of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament are processed. The effect yarn is made of nylon multifilament and a kind of the multifilament. The multifilament is selected from polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament. A weight ratio of the nylon multifilament 20~80 weight% based on the whole weight of the effect yarn.

Description

데님조 합성섬유 직물{Denim like synthetic facbric}Denim like synthetic facbric
본 발명은 합성 멀티필라멘트들을 경사와 위사로 사용하여 제직되었지만 천연섬유의 방적사를 사용하여 제직된 직물과 유사한 촉감과 외관을 갖고, 염색시 위사보다 경사가 진한 색상으로 염색되어 직물 표면에 흰색점(white dot)의 톤(tone)이 발현됨과 동시에 위사방향의 신축성이 뛰어난 데님조 합성섬유 직물에 관한 것이다.The present invention is woven using synthetic multifilaments as warp and weft yarn, but has a texture and appearance similar to that of woven fabrics using spun yarn of natural fiber, and is dyed in a color more inclined than weft yarn when dyed, and thus has white dots on the fabric surface. The present invention relates to a denim-like synthetic fiber fabric having excellent elasticity in the weft direction while expressing a tone of white dot).
이하, "데님조 직물(denim like fabric)"이라 함은 위사가 경사보다 진한 색상을 나타내어 직물 표면에 흰색점(white dot)의 톤(tone)이 발현되는 직물을 의미한다.Hereinafter, "denim like fabric" refers to a fabric in which weft yarns have a darker color than a warp so that a tone of white dots appears on the fabric surface.
합성섬유가 처음 개발된 이후부터 합성섬유의 장점은 그대로 유지하면서 천연섬유 장점들을 모방하기 위한 노력은 계속되어 왔다. 현재까지 합성섬유는 많은 발전을 이루어 여러가지 사가공법을 통하여 천연섬유의 외관이나 터치에 매우 가까워졌으며, 일정부분에서는 천연섬유을 압도하고 있다.Since the development of synthetic fibers for the first time, efforts have been made to imitate natural fiber advantages while maintaining the advantages of synthetic fibers. Up to now, synthetic fibers have been developed a lot, and through various processing methods, they are very close to the appearance and touch of natural fibers, and some parts have overwhelmed natural fibers.
데님(denim)이란 면(cotton) 소재를 이용하여 경사는 인디고 염료를 사용하여 사염한 감색사(紺色絲)를 사용하고, 위사로는 염색하지 않은 미염사(未染絲)를 사용하여 능직(twill) 또는 변화직으로 제직한 것으로 정의되어 진다. 이러한 면 소재의 데님은 워싱가공(washing)이나 반복세탁에 의해 점차적으로 경사에 염착된 염료가 위사로 이염되거나 부분탈염되어 자연스러운 톤을 발현하게 되며 촉감이 방적사 특유의 부드러운 촉감을 가지고 있다.Denim is a cotton material, and the slope is indigo dye-dyed dark blue yarn, and weft yarn is used for undyed yarn. twill) or changeable weave. Such cotton denim is gradually dyed or partially desalted by weft yarns by washing or repeated washing to express natural tones and has a soft touch unique to the yarn.
그러나 대부분의 면 데님의 경우 경사의 사염공정을 거쳐야 하고, 세섬도의 면사는 가격이 매우 고가이며 공정이 여러단계로 복잡하여 대부분의 데님직물은 두께가 후직이다. 따라서 자켓이나 스포츠웨어와 같이 경량성과 기능성을 요구하는 제품에 적용하기 어려우며 용도의 한계가 있다.However, most cotton denim has to go through the slope printing process, and the cotton yarn of Sesido is very expensive and the process is complicated in many stages, so most denim fabrics are thick. Therefore, it is difficult to apply to products that require light weight and functionality, such as jackets and sportswear, there is a limit of use.
이와 같은 문제점들을 해결하기 위하여, 최근에는 합성섬유로 제조된 데님조(denim like) 직물이 개발되어 청바지, 가방 및 간단한 악세사리 등에 널리 사용되고 있다.In order to solve these problems, recently, denim-like fabrics made of synthetic fibers have been developed and widely used in jeans, bags, and simple accessories.
합성섬유로 데님조 원단을 제조하는 종래기술로는, 면 데님과 동일한 방법으로 경사를 사염을 하고 위사는 염색하지 않은 미염색사를 사용하는 방법이 있다. 이 경우 사염의 불균염 및 공정상의 번거로움, 사염공정의 높은 가격 등의 문제점이 있어 자주 사용되지 않는다.Conventional techniques for producing denim-like fabrics from synthetic fibers include the use of undyed yarns that do not dye and weft yarns in the same way as cotton denim. In this case, there are problems such as disproportionation of salts, cumbersome processes, and high price of the salts process, so they are not frequently used.
또 다른 방법으로는 대한민국 공고특허 제 1995-110호와 같이 원단에 데님무늬를 날염하는 방법이 있다. 날염 롤러나 스크린에 데님 직물의 일부분이 인날되도록 조각한 후 날염 방식에 의하여 데님 효과를 표현하는 방식으로 공정이 간단한 특징이 있으나 촉감이 면 방적사와 같지 않으며 견뢰도가 떨어지고 패턴을 바꿀때마다 롤러나 스크린을 바꾸어야하는 불편함이 있었다.As another method, there is a method of printing a denim pattern on a fabric as in Korean Patent Publication No. 1995-110. Part of the denim fabric is engraved on the printing roller or screen to express the denim effect by the printing method, but the process is simple, but the texture is not the same as cotton yarn. There was an inconvenience to change.
또 다른 방법으로 대한민국 공개특허 제 2002-2492호와 같이 해도형 극세사를 이용하며 제직 후 감량하여 마찰에 의해 직물 블록부의 백화를 야기하여 천연섬유 데님조 직물을 제조하는 방법이 있다. 이 방법의 경우 해도형 극세사를 사용하는 방법으로 천연섬유와 같은 촉감을 나타내나 오히려 스웨이드에 가까운 촉감을 나타내며 감량공정 및 마찰가공을 거쳐야 하므로 원단에 손상이 많이 가해져 직물의 강도가 약해지는 단점이 있다. 또한 해도형 극세사의 가격이 고가이며 적정 감량조건을 조절해야 하는 등 공정이 복잡한 단점을 가지고 있다.As another method, there is a method of producing natural fiber denim fabric by using island-in-the-sea microfiber as in Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2002-2492 and reducing the weight after weaving to cause the whitening of the fabric block portion by friction. In this method, the island-in-the-sea microfiber is used to show the same feel as natural fiber, but rather, it is close to suede and has to go through weight loss process and friction processing. . In addition, the island has a complex disadvantage, such as the high price of island-in-the-sea microfiber and the need to adjust the appropriate weight loss conditions.
한편, 천연섬유로 제조된 직물과 유사한 촉감과 외관을 합성섬유 직물에 부여하기 위한 종래 기술로서는 합성섬유로 이루어진 방적사를 경사 및/또는 위사로 사용하는 방법이 널리 사용되어 왔다.On the other hand, as a conventional technique for imparting a touch and appearance to a synthetic fiber fabric similar to a fabric made of natural fibers, a method of using a spun yarn made of synthetic fibers as warp and / or weft yarn has been widely used.
그러나, 상기 방법은 필라멘트상의 합성섬유사를 단섬유 상태로 절단한 후, 다시 혼타면, 소면, 연조, 조방 및 정방으로 이루어진 방적공정을 거쳐 방적사를 제조해야 하기 때문에 공정이 복잡하고, 제조 원가도 상승하는 문제가 있었다.However, the method is complicated because the yarn is manufactured after the filament-like synthetic fiber yarn is cut into a single fiber state, and then manufactured through a spinning process consisting of mixed cotton, carding, soft rolling, spinning and spinning. There was a problem of ascension.
또 다른 방법으로는 대한민국 공개특허 제10-2005-0036339호에서는 (ⅰ) 수축특성이 서로 상이한 2종의 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트로 이루어진 복합가연사의 경사와, (ⅱ) 상기 경사와 상이한 염착특성을 갖는 열가소성수지 멀티필라멘트들로 이루어지거나 상기 경사와 상이한 염착특성을 갖는 열가소성수지 멀티필라멘트와 상기 경사와 동일한 염착특성을 갖는 열가소성수지 멀티필라멘트들로 이루어진 에어텍스츄어링 가공사의 위사로 구성되며, 직물의 1완전조직 상에서 경사의 표면 부출율이 50%이상인 것을 특징으로 하는 데님조 합성섬유 직물을 제안하고 있으나, 상기 데님조 합성섬유 직물은 데님조 효과는 우수하나 위사방향의 신축성이 부족한 문제점이 있었다.As another method, Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 10-2005-0036339 discloses (i) a slope of a composite twisted yarn composed of two kinds of polyester multifilaments having different shrinkage characteristics, and (ii) a dyeing characteristic different from the slope. It consists of a weft yarn of air-texturing processing made of thermoplastic multifilaments or thermoplastic multifilaments having different dyeing properties than the warp yarns and thermoplastic multifilaments having the same dyeing properties as the warp yarns. The denim-like synthetic fiber fabric is characterized by having a surface bleeding rate of 50% or more on the tissue, but the denim-like synthetic fiber fabric has a problem that the denim-like effect is excellent but the elasticity of the weft direction is insufficient.
또한 상기 데님조 합성섬유는 경사가 복합 가연사이기 때문에 경사가 에어텍스츄어링 가공사인 경우에 비해 직물의 촉감 및 외관이 떨어지는 문제도 있었다.In addition, the denim-like synthetic fiber has a problem in that the inclination of the fabric is inferior to the touch and appearance of the fabric compared to the case of the air-texturing processing yarn because the warp is a composite combustor.
본 발명의 목적은 앞에서 설명한 종래 문제점들을 해결 할 수 있도록 천연섬유 직물과 유사한 촉감과 외관을 발현함과 동시에, 데님과 같이 염색시 직물 표면에 흰색점의 톤이 발생되며, 위사방향의 신축성이 특히 우수한 데님조 합성섬유 직물을 제공하고자 한다.The purpose of the present invention is to express the feel and appearance similar to natural fiber fabrics to solve the above-described problems, and at the same time, the tone of the white spots are generated on the surface of the fabric when dyed like denim, the elasticity of the weft direction in particular An excellent denim-like synthetic fabric is provided.
본 발명에서는 데님조 효과와 동시에 직물의 위사방향 신축성을 개선하기 위해서, 위사인 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 구성하는 코어사(Core Yarn)로 신축성이 우수한 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트를 사용하며, 상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사내 나일론 멀티필라멘트의 중량비가 이펙트사(Effect Yarn) 전체중량대비 20~80중량%이 되도록 하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In the present invention, in order to improve the weft direction stretch of the fabric at the same time as the denim effect, using a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament excellent in elasticity as a core yarn (Core Yarn) constituting a composite air-texturing processing yarn weft yarn, The weight ratio of the nylon multifilament in the composite air-texturing processing yarn is characterized in that 20 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the effect yarn (Effect Yarn).
본 발명은 직물의 위사방향 신축성이 우수함과 동시에 직물과 같은 광택, 드라이한 촉감 및 양호한 볼륨감을 나타내고, 산성염료로 염색시 경사의 전부 및 위사의 일부는 염색되고, 위사의 나머지 일부는 염색되지 않아 직물 표면에 흰색점(White dot)의 톤(tone) 발현되어 의류용 소재로 유용하다.The present invention is excellent in the weft direction stretch of the fabric and at the same time exhibits the same gloss, dry feel and good volume as the fabric, when dyeing with acid dyes all of the warp and part of the weft is dyed, the rest of the weft is not dyed White dot on the surface of the fabric (tone) is expressed as a useful material for clothing.
도 1은 본 발명에서 위사로 사용하는 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하는 공정 개략도.1 is a process schematic diagram of manufacturing a composite air-texturing processing yarn used as weft yarn in the present invention.
* 도면 중 주요부분에 대한 부호 설명* Explanation of symbols on the main parts of the drawings
A : 코어사(Core Yarn)A: Core Yarn
B : 이펙트사(Effect Yarn)B: Effect Yarn
1 : 제1공급로울러 2 : 제2공급로울러1: 1st supply roller 2: 2nd supply roller
3 : 수분공급장치 4 : 공기교락노즐3: moisture supply device 4: air entanglement nozzle
5 : 가열로울러 6 : 건조열판5: heating roller 6: drying plate
7 : 제3공급로울러 8 : 권취로울러7: 3rd supply roller 8: winding roller
본 발명의 데님조 합성섬유 직물은 경사는 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사이고, 위사는 [i] 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트의 코어사(A)와 [ⅱ] (a) 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 (b) 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 및 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 중에서 선택된 1종의 멀티필라멘트들로 이루어진 이펙트사(B)가 에어텍스츄어링 가공된 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사 이고, 상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사내 나일론 멀티필라멘트의 중량비가 이펙트사(Effect Yarn) 전체중량대비 20~80중량%인 것을 특징으로 한다.Denim-like synthetic fiber fabrics of the present invention is inclined nylon air texturing processing yarn, the weft yarn [i] core trim (A) and [ii] (a) nylon multifilament of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament and (b) The effect yarn (B) consisting of one kind of multifilament selected from polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament is an air texuring composite air texuring processing yarn, and the multi-air nylon fabric in the composite air texuring processing yarn The weight ratio of the filament is characterized in that 20 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the effect yarn (Effect Yarn).
이하, 첨부한 도면 등을 통하여 본 발명을 상세하게 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
본 발명의 데님조 합성섬유 직물은 통상의 직물들과 같이 경사와 위사가 서로 교차하면서 제직된 구조를 갖는다.The denim-like synthetic fiber fabric of the present invention has a structure in which warp and weft yarns are woven while crossing each other like conventional fabrics.
본 발명의 직물을 구성하는 경사는 나일론 멀티필라멘트를 통상적인 에어텍스츄어링 방법으로 처리하여 제조된 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사이다.The warp constituting the fabric of the present invention is a nylon air texturing processing yarn manufactured by treating nylon multifilament by a conventional air texturing method.
한편, 본 발명의 데님조 합성섬유 직물을 구성하는 위사는 코어사(A)는 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트이며, 이펙트사(B)는 (ⅰ) 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 (ⅱ) 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 및 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 중에서 선택된 1종의 멀티필라멘트로 이루어진 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사 이다.Meanwhile, the weft yarn constituting the denim-like synthetic fiber fabric of the present invention is the core yarn (A) is polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament, and the effect yarn (B) is (i) nylon multifilament and (ii) polyethylene terephthalate multi It is a composite air texturing processing yarn composed of one kind of multifilament selected from filament and polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament.
상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사는 도 1과 같은 공정으로 제조될 수 있다.The composite air texturing processor may be manufactured by the process as shown in FIG.
도 1은 본 발명에서 위사로 사용하는 상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하는 공정 개략도 이다.1 is a process schematic diagram of manufacturing the composite air texturing processing yarn used as the weft yarn in the present invention.
도 1를 통해, 상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하는 방법을 구체적으로 살펴보면, 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트를 코어사(A)로 공기교락 노즐(4)로 공급함과 동시에 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 이루어진 2합사와 또는 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 이루어진 2합사를 이펙트사(B)로 상기 공기교락 노즐(4)로 공급하여 이들을 공기교락시킨 다음 가열로울러(5) 및 건조열판(6)으로 열처리한 후 권취로울러(8)로 권취하여 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조할 수 있다.Referring to Figure 1, looking specifically at the method of manufacturing the composite air-texturing processing yarn, while supplying polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament to the core yarn (A) to the air entanglement nozzle (4) at the same time nylon multifilament and polyethylene tere A two-ply yarn composed of phthalate multifilament or a two-ply yarn composed of nylon multifilament and polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament is supplied to the air entanglement nozzle (4) by the effect yarn (B), and the air is entangled, and then the heating roller (5). And heat-treated with a drying hot plate (6) and then wound by a winding roller (8) to produce a composite air-texturing processing yarn.
이때, 코어사(A)의 오버피율은 10~20%로 조절하고, 이펙트사(B)의 오버피드율은 20~30%로 조절하고, 공기교락 가공시 공기압은 10~13kgf/㎠로 조절하고, 건조열판(6)의 온도는 170~190℃로 조절하고, 사속은 300m/분으로 조절하는것이 에어텍스츄어링 가공효과를 증진하는데 바람직하다.At this time, the over-feed rate of the core yarn (A) is adjusted to 10 to 20%, the over-feed rate of the effect yarn (B) is adjusted to 20 to 30%, the air pressure during the air entanglement is adjusted to 10 ~ 13kgf / ㎠ And, it is preferable to adjust the temperature of the drying hot plate 6 to 170 ~ 190 ℃, the firing speed to 300m / min to enhance the air-texturing processing effect.
그러나, 본 발명에서는 상기 에어텍스츄어링 가공조건을 특별하게 한정하는 것은 아니다.However, in the present invention, the air texturing processing conditions are not particularly limited.
한편, 본 발명에 따른 데님조 합성섬유 직물은 앞에서 설명한 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 경사로 사용하고, 앞에서 설명한 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 위사로 사용하여 3업(up) 1다운(down) 능직 등의 조직으로 제직하여 제조된다.On the other hand, the denim-like synthetic fabric fabric according to the present invention using the nylon air-texturing processing yarn described above as a warp yarn, and the composite air-texturing processing yarn described above as a weft yarn, such as the structure of a three-up (1) up (down) twill weave It is manufactured by weaving.
본 발명에서는 데님조 합성섬유 직물의 조직을 특별하게 한정하는 것은 아니지만, 3업(up) 1다운(down) 능직인 경우 직물 표면으로 부출되는 경사의 표면 부출율이 높아 바람직하다.In the present invention, the structure of the denim-like synthetic fiber fabric is not particularly limited, but in the case of three up one down twill, the surface extruded rate of the inclined surface extruded to the fabric surface is high.
본 발명의 데님조 합성섬유 직물을 구성하는 경사(나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사)와 위사(복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사) 모두는 원사 표면에 미세한 루프 등이 형성되어 있으며 원사내 공극도 다량 형성되어 천연섬유 직물과 유사한 촉감과 외관을 발현한다.Both the warp yarn (nylon airtexturing yarn) and the weft yarn (composite airtexturing yarn) constituting the denim-like synthetic fiber fabric of the present invention are formed with fine loops and the like on the surface of the yarn, and a large amount of voids in the yarn are made of natural fiber fabrics. Expresses a similar feel and appearance.
그로인해, 합성섬유 직물의 촉감과 외관을 개선 하기위한 감량가공을 생략 할 수 있다.As a result, the weight loss process can be omitted to improve the feel and appearance of the synthetic fabric.
본 발명은 상기와 같이 천연섬유 직물과 유사한 촉감과 외관을 발현함과 동시에 합성섬유 고유의 특성에 기인하여 내약품성 및 내추성이 우수하고 취급도 용이하다.The present invention exhibits a feel and appearance similar to that of natural fiber fabrics as described above, and at the same time, due to the inherent properties of synthetic fibers, has excellent chemical resistance and resistance to corrosion, and is easy to handle.
또한, 본 발명에 따른 데님조 합성섬유 직물은 경사는 전부 나일론 멀티필라멘트로 구성되고, 위사의 일부는 나일론 멀티필라멘트로 구성되고, 위사의 나머지 일부는 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 또는 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 구성되기 때문에 산성염료로 염색시 나일론 멀티필라멘트는 진하게 염색되나 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 또는 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트는 염색되지 않아 자연스럽게 직물 표면에 흰색점(White dot)의 톤이 발현된다.In addition, the denim-like synthetic fiber fabric according to the present invention, the warp yarn is all composed of nylon multifilament, part of the weft yarn is composed of nylon multifilament, the remaining part of the weft is polyethylene terephthalate multifilament or polytrimethylene terephthalate multi Nylon filament is dyed darker when it is dyed with acid dye, but polyethylene terephthalate multifilament or polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament is not dyed, so white dots appear naturally on the fabric surface.
또한, 본 발명은 위사인 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사의 코어사(A)가 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 구성되고, 선택적으로는 이펙트사(B)의 일부도 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 구성되기 때문에 직물의 위사방향 신축성이 우수하다.In addition, the present invention is the core yarn (A) of the composite airtexing processing yarn of the weft yarn is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament, and optionally, part of the effect yarn (B) is also composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament Weft elasticity of the fabric is excellent.
이하, 실시예 및 비교실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 보다 구체적으로 살펴본다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.
실시예 1Example 1
75데니어/36필라멘트의 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트를 코어사(A)로 사용하고, 70데니어/68필라멘트의 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 75데니어/36필라멘트의 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트를 합사시킨 2합사를 이펙트(B)사로 사용하여 도 1과 같이 공기교락노즐(4)에 상기 코어사(A)는 18%의 오버피드율로 공급하고, 상기 이펙트사(B)는 28%의 오버피드율로 공급한 다음, 이들을 11.5kgf/㎠의 공기압으로 공기교락시킨 다음, 건조열판(6)에서 180℃로 열처리하여 260데니어의 3합사인 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하였다.2, in which 75 denier / 36 filament polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament is used as core yarn (A), and 70 denier / 68 filament nylon multifilament and 75 denier / 36 filament polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament Using the plywood as the effect (B) yarn, the core yarn (A) is supplied to the air entanglement nozzle (4) at an overfeed rate of 18% as shown in FIG. 1, and the effect yarn (B) has an overfeed rate of 28%. After supplying to the air, these were air-interlocked with an air pressure of 11.5kgf / ㎠, and then heat-treated at 180 ℃ in a drying hot plate (6) to prepare a composite air-texturing processing yarn of three-ply 260 denier.
다음으로는, 상기와 같이 제조된 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 위사로 사용하고, 90데니어/68필라멘트의 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 경사로 사용하여 3업(up) 1 다운(down) 능직조직으로 경사총본수가 9,600본이고, 폭이 70인치이고, 위사밀도가 64본/인치인 직물을 제직하였다.Next, using the composite air-textured yarn manufactured as described above as a weft yarn, and using a 90-denier / 68-filament nylon air-textured yarn as a warp yarn, the warp gun with a 3 up 1 down twill structure. Weaving fabrics of 9,600 pieces, 70 inches wide and weft density 64 pieces / inch were woven.
다음으로, 제직된 직물을 산성염료로 염색하여 가공원단을 제조하였다.Next, the woven fabric was dyed with an acid dye to prepare a fabric.
제조된 가공원단의 각종물성을 평가한 결과는 표 1과 같았다.The results of evaluating various physical properties of the fabricated fabrics were shown in Table 1.
실시예 2Example 2
75데니어/36필라멘트의 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 2가닥을 합사시킨 2합사를 코어사(A)로 사용하고, 70데니어/68필라멘트의 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 55데니어/144필라멘트의 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트를 합사시킨 2합사를 이펙트(B)사로 사용하여 도 1과 같이 공기교락노즐(4)에 상기 코어사(A)는 20%의 오버피드율로 공급하고, 상기 이펙트사(B)는 26%의 오버피드율로 공급한 다음, 이들을 11kgf/㎠의 공기압으로 공기교락시킨 다음, 건조열판(6)에서 180℃로 열처리하여 318데니어/264필라멘트의 4합사인 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하였다.A two-ply yarn of 75 denier / 36 filament polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament 2 ply yarns is used as the core yarn (A), and 70 denier / 68 filament nylon multifilament and 55 denier / 144 filament polyethylene terephthalate multi The core yarn A is supplied to the air entanglement nozzle 4 at an overfeed rate of 20%, and the effect yarn B is 26 using the two-ply yarn in which filaments are plyed together as the effect yarn B as shown in FIG. After supplying with an overfeed rate of%, they were air entangled with an air pressure of 11 kgf / cm 2, and then heat-treated at 180 ° C. in a drying hot plate 6 to prepare a composite air-texturing processing yarn of 4 ply of 318 denier / 264 filaments. .
다음으로는, 상기와 같이 제조된 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 위사로 사용하고, 90데니어/68필라멘트의 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 경사로 사용하여 헤림본(Herimbon)조직으로 경사총본수가 9,600본이고, 폭이 70인치이고, 위사밀도가 80본/인치인 직물을 제직하였다.Next, using a composite air-textured yarn manufactured as described above as a weft yarn, using a 90-denier / 68-filament nylon air-textured yarn as a warp yarn, 9,600 warp heads in a Herrimbon structure, width This 70-inch fabric was woven with a weft density of 80 bones / inch.
다음으로, 제직된 직물을 산성염료로 염색하여 가공원단을 제조하였다.Next, the woven fabric was dyed with an acid dye to prepare a fabric.
제조된 가공원단의 각종물성을 평가한 결과는 표 1과 같았다.The results of evaluating various physical properties of the fabricated fabrics were shown in Table 1.
비교실시예 1Comparative Example 1
신도가 130%인 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사 (245데니어/96필라멘트)와 신도가 35%인 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사(75데니어/36필라멘트)를 복합가연기에서 공기교락, 가연 및 권취하여 섬도가 300데니어인 경사용 복합가공사를 제조하였다.High-strength polyester multifilament yarn (245 denier / 96 filament) of 130% elongation and low-strength polyester multifilament yarn (75 denier / 36 filament) of 35% elongation are air-entangled, flammable and wound Slope composite work with a fineness of 300 denier was prepared.
다음으로, 폴리아미드 멀티필라멘트(75데니어/48필라멘트×2합)를 초사로 사용하고 상기 초사와 동일한 염착특성을 갖는 폴리아미드 멀티필라멘트(70데니어/48필라멘트×2합)를 심사로 사용하여, 도1과 같이 공기노즐에 상기 초사는 34%의 오버피드율로 공급하고 상기심사는 16%의 오버피드율로 각각 공급한다음, 이들을 10kgf/㎠의 공기압으로 공기교락 시킨 다음, 중공히터에서 190℃로 열 세팅하여 섬도가 320데니어인 위사용 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 제조하였다.Next, using polyamide multifilament (75 denier / 48 filament x 2 go) as a super yarn and using a polyamide multifilament (70 denier / 48 filament x 2 go) having the same dyeing properties as the super yarn, as a screening, As shown in FIG. 1, the superfiber yarn is supplied at an overfeed rate of 34% to the air nozzle, and the examination is supplied at an overfeed rate of 16%, respectively.Then, the air is entangled with an air pressure of 10kgf / cm 2, and then 190 at a hollow heater. Heat-treated at 0 ° C., weaving air texturing processing yarn having a fineness of 320 denier was prepared.
다음으로, 상기와 같이 제조된 복합가공사를 경사로 사용하고, 에어텍스츄어링 가공사를 위사로 사용하여 3업(up) 1다운(down) 우능 능직 조직으로 경사총본수가 5,500본이고,폭이 70인치이고, 위사 밀도가 70본/인치인 직물을 제직 한후 이를 통상의 폴리에스테르 원단의 염색(분산염료사용) 및 가공방법으로 염색과 가공하여 가공원단을 제조 하였다.Next, the composite fabricated as described above is used as a warp yarn, using an air-texturing processing yarn as a weft yarn, and a 5,500 warp yarn head number is 5,500 pieces in width and 70 inches in width. After weaving a fabric with a weft density of 70 bones / inch, it was dyed and processed by a conventional polyester fabric dyeing (using dispersant) and processing to prepare a fabric.
제조된 가공원단의 각종물성을 평가한 결과는 표 1과 같았다.The results of evaluating various physical properties of the fabricated fabrics were shown in Table 1.
가공원단의 물성평가 결과Property evaluation result of processing fabric
구분division 실시예 1Example 1 실시예 2Example 2 비교실시예 1Comparative Example 1
외관Exterior 우수Great 우수Great 보통usually
촉감touch 우수Great 우수Great 보통usually
데님조 효과Denim-like effect 우수Great 우수Great 보통usually
위사방향 신축성Weft Elasticity 우수Great 우수Great 불량Bad
상기 <표 1>에서 가공원단의 각종물성은 아래와 같은 방법으로 평가하였다.In Table 1, various physical properties of the fabric were evaluated by the following method.
외관/촉감/데님조 효과/위사방향 신축성Appearance / touch / denim effect / weft stretch
10명의 전문가에 의한 관능검사 방식으로 평가하였다.The evaluation was performed by sensory evaluation by 10 experts.
각종물성에 대해 10명의 전문가중 8명 이상이 양호하다고 평가하면 "우수"로, 5명~7명이 양호하다고 평가하면 "보통"으로 4명이하가 양호하다고 평가하면 "불량"으로 각각 구분하였다.In terms of physical properties, 8 or more out of 10 experts were classified as "excellent", and 5 to 7 were rated as "normal" and 4 or less were rated as "bad".

Claims (3)

  1. 경사는 나일론 에어텍스츄어링 가공사이고, 위사는 [i] 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트의 코어사(A)와 [ⅱ] (a) 나일론 멀티필라멘트와 (b) 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 및 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트 중에서 선택된 1종의 멀티필라멘트들로 이루어진 이펙트사(B)가 에어텍스츄어링 가공된 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사 이고, 상기 복합 에어텍스츄어링 가공사내 나일론 멀티필라멘트의 중량비가 이펙트사(Effect Yarn) 전체중량대비 20~80중량%인 것을 특징으로 하는 데님조 합성섬유 직물.The warp yarns are nylon airtexturing yarns, and the weft yarns are [i] core yarns of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament (A) and [ii] (a) nylon multifilament and (b) polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and polytrimethylene Effect yarn (B) consisting of one kind of multifilament selected from terephthalate multifilament is a composite airtexuring yarn processed by air texuring, and the weight ratio of nylon multifilament in the composite airtexuring yarn is effect yarn (Effect Yarn) ) Denim-like synthetic fiber fabric, characterized in that 20 to 80% by weight of the total weight.
  2. 제1항에 있어서, 직물의 조직이 3업(up) 1 다운(down) 능직인 것을 특징으로 하는 데님조 합성섬유 직물.2. The denim-like synthetic fiber fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the tissue of the fabric is three up one down twill.
  3. 제1항에 있어서, 코어사(A)는 1~2가닥의 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트 멀티필라멘트로 구성되는 것을 특징으로 하는 데님조 합성섬유 직물.The denim-like synthetic fiber fabric according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn (A) is composed of 1 to 2 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilaments.
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109667039A (en) * 2019-01-28 2019-04-23 广州市坚纺纺织品有限公司 A kind of denim fabric that imitating compound denim and its manufacturing process
CN110872739A (en) * 2019-10-14 2020-03-10 东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司 Manufacturing process of jean style fabric

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030159749A1 (en) * 2000-02-04 2003-08-28 Yoshiomi Hotta Woven strech fabric
US20040237494A1 (en) * 2003-04-25 2004-12-02 Eleni Karayianni Electrically conductive elastic composite yarn, methods for making the same, and articles incorporating the same
KR100895513B1 (en) * 2007-03-29 2009-04-30 코오롱글로텍주식회사 High elongate fiber or yarn dyed fabric and method thereof

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030159749A1 (en) * 2000-02-04 2003-08-28 Yoshiomi Hotta Woven strech fabric
US20040237494A1 (en) * 2003-04-25 2004-12-02 Eleni Karayianni Electrically conductive elastic composite yarn, methods for making the same, and articles incorporating the same
KR100895513B1 (en) * 2007-03-29 2009-04-30 코오롱글로텍주식회사 High elongate fiber or yarn dyed fabric and method thereof

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109667039A (en) * 2019-01-28 2019-04-23 广州市坚纺纺织品有限公司 A kind of denim fabric that imitating compound denim and its manufacturing process
CN110872739A (en) * 2019-10-14 2020-03-10 东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司 Manufacturing process of jean style fabric
CN110872739B (en) * 2019-10-14 2020-10-16 东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司 Manufacturing process of jean style fabric

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